Building the SEPLOS MASON 280 DIY Kit - What a BEAUTY! Da-Da!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- Today, we are building the SEPLOS MASON 280 DIY Kit. From scratch to finish. Even it is a DIY kit which comes with all the parts, it is still a lot of work. And challenge. Especially, if there is no real installation guide. I made the best out of it and just followed what we learned form the first MASON built.
During our work, I explain all details of building this battery. We also got some headwind and have to repair a few battery terminals. Unbelievable how many are now stripped an faulty of this 'old' battery. No big deal and it is quickly repaired.
At the end everything seemed to have worked well and the battery built is now complete. Not quite, there are more problems with this kit. When I tried to turn it on,...
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I did the same terminal repair after seeing your previous video. You saved me big time! Thank you so much Andy!
Thanks a lot.
Many have complained about this method but I think it's brilliant. Quick, easy and safe!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia the only thing I'm a bit concerned about is the dielectric corrosion between aluminum and stainless steel
At 35:40 you put the main positive bus bar upside down. The fixed nut on the bus bar makes very little contact with the flexible bus bar coming from the fuse.
I concur with Raymond. Along the same lines, you should also add at least one and preferably two more of the Digital Mermaid's flexible bus bars on the 8+/9- node. IIRC, her most recent bulk bus bar build was yielding 110 microohms each, whereas your Seplos aluminum bus bars are close to 1/3rd of this. 110 uOhms @ 150A that the BMS can do is 2.5 W of waste as heat - an unreasonably high value for only a few centimeters of wire.
Yes, that is correct. If I flip the busbar the flexible bus bar to connect to the fuse will be in a bad shape though.
Hey Andy. Stack a second flexible jumper in the back. You’d be surprised at the residence difference between the buss’s and the cable. At higher charge/discharge rates you may get some weirdness between 8 and 9 if you don’t.
These high capacity batteries are nice from an energy storage point of view but there's more to think about than just that. You have to think about being able to physically move it and that's more than just putting it on a skateboard to wheel it around the workshop floor. How to get it into the eventual mounting position, by yourself, for example. That could well mean you need some sort of lifting machine, manually powered or otherwise and that adds onto the cost of the overall project. None-the-less, as usual always interesting to watch Andy at work.
Indeed, I've got a 24V 280Ah pack in my van. The cells and the box are 50kg. Just about manageable to move around but I wouldn't want it any heavier.
Some 🧀 to your 🍷
I'm thinking a Hoyer type patient lift (medical version of the automotive engine hoist)
I think if they are on the trolley, that's how I would install them.
But yeah, the weight is something I have on my list as well. You would need 3-4 people to lift it up now if it goes in an enclosure of any kind.
Very valid point.
Nice repair on the stripped terminals. Having them all torqued correctly is a good thing. My O.C.D. would like to see all the terminals matching size, but I try really hard to fight that when it adds extra work and extra risk to my projects!
Over time, I will probably end up with replacing them all. I could already feel that some just made the 5Nm but would not go any further. The UNC screws seems to be rock solid.
Hi Andy! A couple of suggestions. Just in case you haven't already found.
The busbar screwed to the positive terminals should be reversed. The thread on the opposite side. This way you'll have more contact area with the bar coming from the fuse.
The "chewing gum" is for better heat dissipation on the BMS. It is supposed to be installed between the front panel and the BMS's heat sink.
Kind Regards.
hah I was going to comment that same thing! I was waiting for him to realize his mistake. But at least I wasnt alone! good eye!
In my case (literally box) the heatsink of the BMS ist only 1-2mm away from the front plate. When I put that blue stuff in, the PCB will be bent extremely. AND! As I tried that, the thermolube of the heatsink was pushed to the outside :(. So, I decided to not use this chewing gum.
@35:30, if you reverse that metal busbar, the bridge connector to the fuse is too long, and not flexible enough to fit. It must be the way Andy shows it.
@@trevornelmes9331 I'm not sure if I understand what you mean. I've assembled a couple of this boxes this way. And there is no problem with the length. Only very slight curve on the bar.
@@vferrandobe Ah. I have one on its way. The front panel is a revised design. The power terminals are vertically arranged, as I look at the front the negative two are on the left and the positive ones on the right. The LCD is in the middle and looks different also. Supposed to be to allow vertical cabling runs easier. The connecting 'flexible bar has the busbar to join each terminal pair built in, so that positive bridge busbar is no longer there. The fuse is a different type as well. The front also has a power button, that goes to a jumper on the BMS. The cell busbars have insulation and are the 'flexible' type that has a hump in. The BMS has Bluetooth. They did me a really nice deal of ~ $700 delivered including UK taxes, 150A BMS and the trolley.
Great video. Been looking forward to the 280AH Mason build as I have one en route. Can't wait for the testing.
Great, hope you can find all the parts 😂
same experience as i made. The Case is top notch .... the BMS needs a software workover ! Nice video as always ! Thx Andy.
Andy next time use a hex key on the head of the grub screw to hold it in place while you tighten down the hex nut, otherwise you might end up with more stripped terminals.
Sehr gut ! Dakushun to take time explain all the process. Your are master🎉🎉
Great info. You could have had Triio from your home country with DaDaDa.🤣 In the background.
I have the same box and put it together a little over a month ago. I opted to use the busbars that came with the EVE280 cells instead of the Aluminum ones that were provided by Seplos (for reasons you already know!). Mine were shipped in the exact same s**t show way that yours were. I complained and never heard a thing back from them. To be honest they have some of the worst customer service and could care less after they get your money (my experience).
I also opted to replace the front connectors with Amphenol connectors as I couldn't find any information or links to buy my own connectors/crimps from the company who makes the ones they provided (futronics). I paid an arm and a leg for it though, but I wanted to be able to make my own length cable/connections.
I bought a hydrolic pump motorcycle lift to build these on and then lower and roll them into place :)
Thanks for sharing your experience. So far, I cannot complain about their service. Sometimes it does not make sense what they're replying but at least they reply. I will pass your feedback on to them!
The connectors are on my list for the verdict video. I don't like them either. Seems you can only buy them from Seplos directly for a lot of money. I'll have a look at some alternatives too.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I asked them multiple times about what connectors they use on the front but they didn't reply. I only found out when I received it. It also arrived damaged (cosmetic) with a large dent on the front and the "flying busbars" as I like to calls them, no response.
I like the units and they are well built, but I wouldn't trust them if I had issues.
@@hummmingbear just try to chat with them via whatsapp. I also face same difficulty as you. I tried to get details about these connectors, bcz I've to use custom battery cable length. After 2hrs I able to get right answer, that's meant they didn't help. The guy I contact he's very helpful to me. But he's not a technical guy, so he had to wait for his technical team response. By the way, they used 50mm square terminal for 200A BMS. He already sent me, tech specification for it.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Here they had not replied too, only before payment they had been very responsive. Beyond that there was silence. Luckily I had paid with paypal and if they do not get it done soon I will call paypal to open a full case, where they will have to pick the whole mess up. I do not need a discount on a broken product. I had fully paid and shippping can not be that hard . Have never seen such a bad shipping preparation for the parts inside.
Hallo Andy, nice and funny video as always 👍
I installed with Jens (you know him) 4 of this great cases with the worst BMS on my boat.
The USB-serial connection sometimes works, when you activate the first battery on the right side, so that it is green.
Just one of many bugs of this system.
I could not get it running reliably, so I am changing all to Batrium now.
Best wishes from Vienna,
Heinz
Its nice to here, that the new screwas will hold BOMBENFEST 🙂
Yellow Oversize post-it notes all over the place LOL 😄
Andy try selecting "Pack1" in the BMS software. It may allow comm to battery to work.
As my Mason was delivered it looked exactly the same and I wrote a an email to Seplos and they say OK we will deliver it the next time with a cardboard box 😂🤣 but you are the best example that Seplos didn't change anything 😉. But for 600 USD you should expect the parts better packed. I ordered a second one so we'll see 👀.
Your "chewing gum" is heat transfer gum which go underneath the bms to transfer the heat to the front panel, schön Grüße Marko
They will get some more feedback. There was nothing in the installation guide about the heat pad and the BMS was already mounted 🤷♂️
Danke Dir!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I think the PCB was only loosely mounted for transportation.
The blue stuff goes between it and the case for thermal, then remount the PCB with extra screws.
They have a TH-cam installation video on their YT channel
I'd put the fuse on top of the bus bars. That way if you need to remove the fuse you only need undo those two bolts and it lifts straight out without having to bend the bus bars, or even having to undo them from the BMS or terminal.
Thx for the tip, will be building my system using a mega fuse within the next week so it is timely advice.
Hey :) as u build already 5 of them and ordered another 10, some feedback from Germany.
Not everything is good at the DIY system (lacking manual), but not as bad as it looks. Usually they send the youtube link where you can see more than in the manual on the website -> a lot of room for improvement here for Seplos.
I used EVE 280AH cells from Docan, i put 5 or 6nm on the studs and none broke, maybe i was lucky, but for 80 cells ? Maybe yours were just bad. This time i will get 160 CATL cells, let's see.
The blue rubber pad is a Wärmeleitpad - thermal transfer pad. You have to remove the BMS and put that on the heatsink, it has exactly that size. I used the seplos bus bar as it measured better than the Docan busbars. My Seplos BMS is 200A Version.
For all screws that are preinstalled -> they are low quality and just for transportation, just throw them away, you have all new screens in the package (my "transportation" screws were already rusty ). The copper rings are used on the cells before adding the busbars. For my cells all busbars fitted. The cell cables, plug them into the BMS side first, then you dont need your condom solution, just plug them into the battery side as the 2nd step.
The new shipment include a cardbox with all materials, i already received a picture. My first 5 came as yours, awful, really really awful. One had a defect display, replacement came in around one week, really fast.
To connect the BMS to the PC, select cell 1 in the software, then press connect. Try dip 1 on if it still does not work. I think you have one foam left over for each side, there has to be 2 on he first cell behind the steel plate -> then the screw is long enough to put 8-9nm pressure.
Improvement they need to do from my side:
- packaging (maybe already fixed)
- a really good manual, PDF link or even paper
- a good description of the software and how to use it and how to connect (there are several PDF with the dip switches, in some the order is changed, in some not, awful !!)
- pre-modified fuse holder cap that it fits
Can you comment about the just buying it as a fully assembled rather than DIY? I asked Seplos and the price difference was tiny. Why wouldn't I just go that way? I'm looking for a good deal on battery, not a new hobby if that makes sense. Thank you.
@@Altenurgy for me the difference was not tiny, and the cells from seplos are neither Eve nor CATL
@@patrickmartin4482 That little birdie does keep telling me something is likely amiss. I'm relatively new to all of this so the cell manufacturer wasn't even a matter I thought to look for. They've sent me lots of documentation including a 12 page one on the cells. No mention of manufacturer that I could see. 6000 cycles @ 80% though. So if I understand correctly you bought thier kit are providing your own cells? I hadn't even thought about that.
@@Altenurgy I ordered 80 eve cells @ docan and this time 160x CATL
@@AltenurgyWenn du jetzt wirklich glaubst, daß diese 'S E P L O S M E N S C H E N' den Pack besser zusammen nageln , als ein versierter Schrauber, dann hast du dir viel Zeit gespart 👍 Wenn dein Keller, oder wo auch immer du das Teil dann hin stellst, irgend wann wegkokelt , haste aber auch nix gewonnen . Die Chinamänner wirds aber auch nicht interessieren . Da bin ich schon mehr auf der Schrauberseite 😉 Da weiß man was man hat ☝️
I Enjoyed watching, thanks sir😊
Hi Andy, Thanks for another great video. Communicating with Seplos can take days, but they respond eventually. They said they would replace my damaged batteries. But no tracking number yet! Looking forward to your next video. Have a sunny day 😎
Well Andy :D nach Fest kommt Ab ! ;)
Hopefully we get to see mason 135AH updates soon
Hey Andy, been following your channel for awhile. I just recently put together one of the Seplos Mason 280 and communications are working fine for me. FYI, when the battery is in a discharge state my capacity lights are on and my run light blinks green and the display is off. Both rs485 ports work for communication to the computer software. I have spent alot of time understanding this software and have pretty much mastered it and it's quarks. I modified the software files to fix alot of the bad English translations in the software. If you would like any help or access to the files to fix the translations let me know!
Hi Joe - Are you able to post those translation fixes in a google drive and share the link?
I built my 280ah seplos also months ago and it came in the same condition. Even had the bms leads ripped off of the pcb.
FFS, that should not happen. I'll have a word with them!
Guess you need some nice engine hoist (Motorkran 2T ) ... saves your back and knees (from assembling battery packs on the floor).
I'm tearing up ❤ "DA-DA" or better yet Bippity boppity boo🎉😅😂😂
Best regards to you from Texass ✌🏻
Hello Texas! 🌵🐮🤠
Seplos MASON's face is on the short side of the rectangle.
Luyuan also came up with a similar battery case, but the front is on the long side. BMS is per customer's specification... could be Seplos, could be JBD or JK etc...
There are so many battery designs out there now. I like the choice of the BMS, that's a good idea.
Excellent
The chinese chewing gum is a thermal pad for the BMS, it will transfer heat away from the mosfets to the casing. Great video.
You need a ''DA-DA'' torque wrench !!! 🤣
Yes, I do 😂
The copper washers goes beneath the bus bars.
You put Main Positive busbar on tinned press nut, which is made from steel... :)
I love your videos Andy :-)
Thanks! 😃
Thanks Andy, great job as always!
At the rate you’re going, you’ll be able to feed your local area in a blackout 😂
In previous videos you mentioned you weren't going to bother with compression, compression may have prevented or reduced the bulging you experienced
Andy, its Micro ohms not milli ohms as stated @ 22.44. 16 x 30+ milli ohms is 0.5 ohms so would drop way too much voltage and not achieve the 0.5C rating of 140A discharge. Also the copper washers go on top of ring tags so the nuts don't gaul the ring tags and twist the wires to the PCB.
It's always the same. People can't read nor interpret numbers correctly. However, Andy does truncate numbers correctly - at least better than others - they just skip the number they don't want. e.g $0.19 is truncated to be a dime. Yeah right!
Well done Andy, I'm sure the issues can be fixed. In my dreams I would whish to have this metal case, PCB, size for 310AH and the JK BMS... I did not decide if I will build my own in wood, as my 310AH Cells are still sitting here and wait for a nice dress. Or I buy additional 280AH and give Mason a change.
Thanks!
Thank you!
The chinese chewing gum should be a heatshrink between the bms and the housing. Saw that in another video of a developer
bms is definitely not broken, it just needs to be programmed
In the manual it mentions (as you criticized) to fix the nuts on the busbars with 5Nm (at position 23:30 in the video). In the seplos Erklärbärvideo the guy says 4Nm of torque. After asking my Seplos contact, he confirmed that 4Nm torque for fixing the Busbars is enough.
Heya, that's no bad that you have to wait till after the weekend. in the mean time lets do some other projects
Sehr unterhaltsames Video!!! 😉 ... und informativ.
After seeing you stripping the first thread I knew why they had put the copper washers in the box for you...;-)
Put the Cu washers under the nut. It improves friction and mechanical properties.
Thank you for the show. I still hope one day a vendor will come out with an 8 battery 24V system (for EVE280 or 304).
WHY ?
seplos has a 24V version of the box for the same cells.
@@davidkettell6236 Because I need systems that one person can handle without a forklift (Steroids and daily Gym visits are not an option).
@@sergea1138 I just had another look at their homepage and you are right. Many thanks for pointing me into the right direction.
mine goes to sleep Andy the same as the Mason box
Very challenging
Bravo
Molto bene!!!
I think that the copper washers are there to crush slightly and to then provide a better contact between terminal and busbar. You taught us all that when using Pauls washers, the cheap chinese copper ones were malleable and therefore provided better contact.
But you have Al terminals, a copper washer and AL bus bars. That makes no sense...
I never used any washers under bus bars. At least I cannot remember...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia You did not use washers indeed, but you've shown that the difference between Pauls busbars and the malleable chinese busbars was immense. So i think this is the same principle, the aluminium busbars are probably too stiff and will likely not adjust to the terminal surface as much as the copper washers will.
Would be fun video to test this though. Another one where you spend all your time pointing your IR cam at terminals :)
The gaps are not even because you are compressing from one side only. You are working against compression force and cells friction force against the the bottom. I have rods and compression plates at both ends and tighten them such as. In my case is a mobile application so compression & flexible jumpers is a must.
I think these copper washers do not maximize the contact area. It is limited (maximized) by the smallest area and will not increase by placing a bigger/larger washer on top... It will only add an extra resistance in my view...
Yes, hence I left them out. Works perfectly without.
23:57 Why you don't use the drill's torque regulator? The job much more quickly done with that. The scale on the drill probably foot-pounds so you have to multiply those numbers by 1.36 to get Nm.
I noticed there were squared "gaps" at the back wall of the structure so two cells at the very back are not fully supported by the wall. The are supported only on, say, edges. What do you think about that with regard to cell compression? Regards and greetings from Poland.
At 42:40 ... what about a neoprene sheet that just laid on top of the batteries ... just in case :)
With your cells already slightly bulging, the compression force is probably higher than designed. Probably fine, but good to not over tighten the front screws. I wondered if you would need to source longer screws but you found they were just long enough to engage the threads.
They seems be still able to move a bit even under this fixture now, so the EVA tape does it's job I guess. I was wondering if this might be a problem for used cells which are a bit bloated already.
second.... nice stuffing you've been doing lately... where's your SPAT sponsor?
I have many sponsors. I add them all to my homepage 😉🍺
the plastic on the cover is for example some wires comes loose so you do not want it to touch the cover which is metal.
Andy, can ask a stupid question, why must the batteries be so tightly fitted? Interesting that they have to be under high pressure
The manufacturer suggests this to get the 6000 cycles out of the cells. Without compression, they will last 'only' 4500 cycles.
Just for shits and grins, I'd change the connection speed starting at 19.2k and go down. It's possible the communication protocol was changed, could be as simple as dip setting on the BMS. Give it a shot! All you have to lose is some time. And, I think you have the positive buss bar upside down. The two buss bars should join and not on the screw stud like you have it.
Is there a second dip switch on the BMS somewhere? I haven't seen one except the one at the front.
Yeah, the busbar... if I flip it, the flexible bus will bend a lot though
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I can't tell by the video. I do know that for what little time it would take, I'd start at the 19.2k and go slower until you reach the bottom (1200 baud?) Is there a way to change the parity? I'd try that too. It won't hurt anything and the only thing you'd be out of is time.
As for the bus bar, I rewatched that part of the video and I understand what you're saying. It still doesn't look right to me, but I'm no expert. If the bus bar could be made to fit the buss bar that connects the two output ports without deforming the snout out of it, I'd give it a try.
Hey Andy, don't know if your problem with the bms-software is solved.. I solved it by importing this 16S "agreement" XML file (16S_V20_ADDR_EN.XML) in the "Agreement"-SubFolder. After changing this "Agreement" the software must be restartet after the prompt. Maybe this would happend because of first importing the smaller XML-File for the smaller batterypack. Have fun and hopefully this was the problem and you solved it earlier.
BTW, I didn’t notice you sorting the case ground connection
Is there a DIY box for 24V systems? I've been looking for a setup similar to this I can build my 24V cell batteries in.
Yes, there is one from Seplos as well. I've got the link on my website here: off-grid-garage.com/diy-kits/
You're very welcome, good sir! ^_^
I have a few seplos batteries connected to a sunsynk but the BMS keep dying. Killed 6 so far. Thinking of trying to install a different BMS in the case.
Hi there, I am using a Mason 280 with a 200amp Seplos BMS and 16 EVE 304Ah batteries. I have configured the BMS to 304 AH. I'm trying to find out where in the VRM I can check if the battery is charged to 15 kWh. On the installation data screen, I see that the battery has only reached 8 kW, which is not what I expected. You suggested that I drain the battery completely and then recharge it to full capacity. What is the recommended percentage that I should allow it to drain down to before recharging? I drained it to about 50% before recharging. Is that not enough?
The Seplos BMS does not report the kWh or Ah to the Venus OS.
Follow the instruction for the BMS. Fully charge and top balance the battery. then fully drain it until the BMS shuts down, so the BMS learns the capacity of your battery.
Hey Andy!
So I just assembled three of these last week and I have the following comments to your build:
The chewing gum is a heat exchange pad, it goes on the heatsync on the back of the BMS PCB. I cannot for the life of me figure out why they opted to "save" putting this in before shipping and fix the BMS with the 6 screws so it's actually in place, but you have to take off the BMS from the front plate, attach the heat pad and screw it down again.
When you put the BMS back, make sure that the LED diodes align with the holes in the frontplate.
The same for the display, you have to loosen the two screws it comes it, slide the display to the far left if you are looking from behind and screw it back in and add the additional two missing screws. This is why you had issues pressing the buttons, because the alignment is off, so the buttons don't travel properly.
The busbar for the positive terminals on the front is facing the wrong way, you need to put the "nut side" towards the fuseholder.
There was 4 little round foam discs in the kit, put them inside the top holes of the case, so the next box you put on top rests with its feet on that foam pad.
I got the 200a bms and it worked fine for connection via the RS485 ports like you showed with the previous build.
I also told Seplos that their packaging inside the case was borderline stupidity with 3/3 bags for my kits broken and things all over the place. I recommended a cardboard box for all the bits and pieces and separate box for the BMS and display as well. In one of my cases, the PCB of the BMS had actually broken off a corner due to being beaten up in shipping and them not attaching it with the full 6 screws.
I'll look forward to you getting the rollable basestation and hear your judgement on bolt alignment vs the wheel attachment plates :P It'll be fun.
@Off-Grid Garage 5:58 -.. sound of "da da" is wrong. It must have mean "da da da" for sure, the hymn TRiO played in the early 80s during the NDW or New German Wave.
That bad packaging is why they send the bms separately nowdays
Grüße aus Deutschland an den Top Diver 2007
Hahaha, yeah, been a while. Shirt still fits 😂
Your positive bus bar seems upside down. Does the flexible bar make good contact with the rigid bar sitting on top of the formed threads?
It is upside down. I did this so the flexible busbar stays in its intended shape 😉
Can you tell me how to set up the EVE 304Ah batteries in the 200amp Seplos BMS in this Mason 280. Right now mine says Rated Capacity of 200 AH. I would think it should say 304Ah. Is there a place to change these settings?
Do a full charge, discharge, charge cycle and this number will be set to what the actual capacity of tour battery is. The BMS will measure it and set this accordingly.
Up to the Chinese Gum bit. Isn't that some kind of heat sink for the BMS?
Yes, of course it is 😉 But where does it go? There is nothing in the manual and the BMS was already mounted.
i like the way they making rack mount units but no one seems to do a inverter charge controller all in one unit that is rack mounted only thing i find is ups rack mount but they not making anything to go with these battiers comes etc
You can fix the sticker with a hot air station set to 120c
Yeah, I could put the lid out in the sun to heat it up a bit. The question is though what happens if it gets cold again... The sticky part does not seem to be that sticky...
Hello
I also have an off-grid installation of 5.4 kw panels, in verter Easun SMV 4 of 5.6 kw and a LIFEPO4 battery 16 elements of 280 AH.
If you can help me, what are the voltages that must be set on the inverter to charge the battery to 80-90% and discharge to 20-25%.
Thank you in advance.
I would try all the available baud rates it may have been set to a different baud rate on that BMS
I've seen this one going for nearly 4000€, are the battery cells included?
Hello.
Do you have any price/performance 48v bms suggestions for the solar system in our home? One of the models sold on Aliexpress or Amazon.
i,m wondering why they don,t use a Epoxy sheet to cover up the terminals instead of the plastic rubbish they want u to use on the lid.
As some of the comments mention, the C and D versions of the BMS affect comms. That is the one thing I dont like about the BMS. I also have an MPP Inverter, but all seven of my Seplos BMS's are CANBUS models, which I hear cannot be mixed with the RS485 versions.
yep, I confirmed, they can be mix.
Your BMSes don't have both, CAN and RS485? I thought they always have both anyway
@@OffGridGarageAustralia the inverter port (on the left) could be CANBUS or RS485 depending of the bms vesrion (10C or 10D) . The label for this port is always CANBUS whatever version of the bms is. The 2 right ports (RS485 1 and 2) are for inter battery communication and PC host connection. Check your bms version (10C or 10D) if your have 10D then it is a RS485 version and your dip swich setting is not the same as for the CANBUS version.
Hello Andy et al, did someone test the temperature of the main plugs at 100A e.g.? I read around 42 degrees C at ambient of 23 at the cable closest to the plug.
CALB Lifepo's has better terminals I guess.
Hey Andy. I have just built my battery system with VRM. Is it true, that you cant change any parameters in the solar charge controller(via VRM)? And is there a good way to get temperature of the battery into VRM? Thanks so much!
not sure if the copper washers make sense but since copper is very soft i can imagine it to get squished and make a bettet connection if something is not perfectly even
Hi Andy, great video. It has inspired me to fit one of these to my house. I have already had my cells arrive and an awaiting the seplos case. I have just found out that in the UK to apply to correct these to a grid tied system I need to apply for permission and provide data sheets for all equipment including the batteries. I've tried to find the datasheet for battery on seplos Web site but can't find it. Would you know where I can get this. Sorry for the hassle but panicking now that I won't get permission.
Yeah, connecting to the grid is always a bit... hence, my off-grid installation...
What cells doe you have? Did you scann the QR code on top and find out the manufacturer? If you bought the cells from Seplos as well, they could be Higee cells and you can google the specification sheet.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia hi Andy, thanks for the reply. Sorry to keep bothering you but did you ever get the Bluetooth app to work for this battery as I can't even log in?
Da da so funny 😂
DA DA... hahaha, I totally forgot about that 😂
Why is the battery no longer open circuit?.....
Because Andy refused it.
Also those sheets are very slippery great if you want to get insurance or compensation
Also I would be concerned about having a 400A fuse to protect a 150A BMS and wonder if it is a Class T cartridge
I wish we could find this box bare without the BMS somewhere , I've been looking.
You can buy them that way from Seplos. I already had 2 of their BMSs and bought two of the DIY kits to use them in.
@@duunoit How much , everything they have seems expensive for what it is.
@@onthelake9554 I thought the diy box was really reasonable. Shipping was really expensive. 2 of them without BMS shipped to US was $830. $360 of that was shipping and PayPal charges.
@@duunoit Yes , not terrible but not much value for money either . I need too many . :>)
Did you get this version to talk to VenusOS?
I also worried, when I saw your video. Because I already paid for 280Ah case. I immediately contacted them. Luckily they mentioned, they already took an action for it and this will be not happened on future.
Time for an engine lift jig? If you're going to get more rack batteries it'll make lifting them easier?
Hi , love the channel , i am in NZ , Can i replace the 100ah cells in my sok 48v with the 300ah ones you just tested recently ?
Thank you, a other great video. Thanks again for sorting out all the problem one would run into if they were to buy and TRY build.
Andy, can you recommend solar panels? Not all of us have options to used panels.
What a Bummer! What a cliffhanger, I feel for you Andy, Ive been looking forward to this build & was wondering if my 310A cells would fit this unit. I really wanted this to be a good review, but from comments it seems like Seplos just Don’t Give A Sh*T about their packaging abortion or customer support, sounds like this packing fiasco has been reported to them repeatedly and they just haven’t even tried. I really wanted one of these kits, but dont know if I want to support Seplos if they are just going to send me a box full of shaken up Shit! No instructions, no good! These are such simple things to fix, I do hope they listen to you and do something to pick up their act, the product looks ok otherwise. Good vid as always. Cheers
we have same pack select pack 1 on the screen then it will connect