I use an old paint brush, air compressor and a bottle of Super Clean. The Super Clean will remove bar oil and saw dust. My favorite other tool is my carb adjusting screwdriver. When I pop the sprocket and clutch for cleaning I always grease the sprocket bearing. On Husky saws you can grease it via the small hole in the end of the crank. I run Stihl saws, so I have to remove sprocket and clutch, plus that dang E clip on the end of the crank. Husky saws are harder to clean than Stihl saws, IMHO, I wear glasses, so I don’t wear safet glasses, but I do have to clean them afterwards. I always grease the sprocket tip on Husky saws prior to each use and anytime the bar is cleaned. Chains are easier to re-install than Husky chains. You should always put the choke on when cleaning in the carb area. I wash all plastic parts in the kitchen sink with hot water and soap, including the sprocket cover. Better to much two cycle oil in the gas than to little. I may make note of it but I do not usually pull the spark plu during routine maintenance. It is an annual maintenance item. Your routine maintenance is a combination of my routine and annual maintenance procedures. I seldom use break cleaner on a saw because it can discolor or remove paint and decals. Super Clean and hot water is a better cleaner, with some elbow grease.
Thanks. Total rookie here, first time with my first machine, and of course I didn't disengage the brake before removing the cover. It was sure a hazzle to get it back on...
good washing, think that such extensive washing is probably more quarterly washing. I definitely learned something from you today heheh, nice and keep the equipment clean as you also see things that need to be maintained.... Greetings, a simple fireman from Norway...
Every time I clean a saw, I bemoan a lack of an air compressor & gun. But I don’t have the room for such equipment, nor the excuse to spend that amount of money. So for me, it’s brushes, rags and a squirt or three of carb cleaner. I keep a separate soft paintbrush just for cleaning the air filter, plus a cloth just for covering the air intake while cleaning the filter and surrounding area. I’m not a pro hand-cutter, so I can clean the saw after every use - 3-5hrs. once a week. I’ll also check bolt tightness of the anti vib. system and muffler. With the Stihl, the nose sprocket is a sealed unit, but it still gets checked for condition and free movement. With the Husky and its bars, the nose sprocket grease hole is cleared and greased. Once in a blue moon, I’ll also unwind the starter cord and make sure it and the pulley aren’t covered with muck or clogged with dust. Other than this and the bolt checking, my cleaning regime is pretty much the same as demonstrated by you. Though from now on, I’ll also be flipping the choke before removing the air filter, (you keep learning). Thank you.
The spark plug only tells you info from when the saw was shut off, so the only valuable result you get if checking it after a big cut. Oily plug just means the saw was idling alot before being shut off. Or didn't reach up to temp during the last run. You can run 16:1 (synthetic oil so it doesn't smoke) and do a long bucking cut, shut the saw off, and the plug is going to be brown and dry if the air-fuel mixture is right.
Looks like you were the first guy to clean that saw. Is the saw owned by an arborist? Or public works crew? The yellow paint all over it tell me it’s not privately owned but company owned. Most likely gets used a lot and put away wet, little maintenance. What about greasing that needle bearing on the crankshaft? Why not since you have the clutch off?
I use an old paint brush, air compressor and a bottle of Super Clean. The Super Clean will remove bar oil and saw dust. My favorite other tool is my carb adjusting screwdriver. When I pop the sprocket and clutch for cleaning I always grease the sprocket bearing. On Husky saws you can grease it via the small hole in the end of the crank. I run Stihl saws, so I have to remove sprocket and clutch, plus that dang E clip on the end of the crank. Husky saws are harder to clean than Stihl saws, IMHO, I wear glasses, so I don’t wear safet glasses, but I do have to clean them afterwards. I always grease the sprocket tip on Husky saws prior to each use and anytime the bar is cleaned. Chains are easier to re-install than Husky chains. You should always put the choke on when cleaning in the carb area. I wash all plastic parts in the kitchen sink with hot water and soap, including the sprocket cover. Better to much two cycle oil in the gas than to little. I may make note of it but I do not usually pull the spark plu during routine maintenance. It is an annual maintenance item. Your routine maintenance is a combination of my routine and annual maintenance procedures. I seldom use break cleaner on a saw because it can discolor or remove paint and decals. Super Clean and hot water is a better cleaner, with some elbow grease.
Thanks. Total rookie here, first time with my first machine, and of course I didn't disengage the brake before removing the cover. It was sure a hazzle to get it back on...
good washing, think that such extensive washing is probably more quarterly washing. I definitely learned something from you today heheh, nice and keep the equipment clean as you also see things that need to be maintained.... Greetings, a simple fireman from Norway...
Every time I clean a saw, I bemoan a lack of an air compressor & gun. But I don’t have the room for such equipment, nor the excuse to spend that amount of money. So for me, it’s brushes, rags and a squirt or three of carb cleaner. I keep a separate soft paintbrush just for cleaning the air filter, plus a cloth just for covering the air intake while cleaning the filter and surrounding area.
I’m not a pro hand-cutter, so I can clean the saw after every use - 3-5hrs. once a week. I’ll also check bolt tightness of the anti vib. system and muffler. With the Stihl, the nose sprocket is a sealed unit, but it still gets checked for condition and free movement. With the Husky and its bars, the nose sprocket grease hole is cleared and greased.
Once in a blue moon, I’ll also unwind the starter cord and make sure it and the pulley aren’t covered with muck or clogged with dust. Other than this and the bolt checking, my cleaning regime is pretty much the same as demonstrated by you. Though from now on, I’ll also be flipping the choke before removing the air filter, (you keep learning).
Thank you.
The spark plug only tells you info from when the saw was shut off, so the only valuable result you get if checking it after a big cut. Oily plug just means the saw was idling alot before being shut off. Or didn't reach up to temp during the last run. You can run 16:1 (synthetic oil so it doesn't smoke) and do a long bucking cut, shut the saw off, and the plug is going to be brown and dry if the air-fuel mixture is right.
Great video
Looks like you were the first guy to clean that saw. Is the saw owned by an arborist? Or public works crew? The yellow paint all over it tell me it’s not privately owned but company owned. Most likely gets used a lot and put away wet, little maintenance.
What about greasing that needle bearing on the crankshaft? Why not since you have the clutch off?