Was going to say the same thing... definitely try a new ring . heck might as well if its apart and has a good bit of time on it anyway. (could at least do a ring end gap check.)
@@danielmitchell2659 What other ratings does it have? It's typically a bad idea to run tcw3 marine oil in air cooled 2 strokes. Combustion chamber temperatures don't mesh well.
@@danielmitchell2659 Big fan of Motul 800 off-road in all 2 strokes I use. From my trimmer to my 881 on the mill, very happy how the insides look after 1000+ hours of use.
I bet the plating on the cylinder has worn down enough to cause excessive ring end gap and bore taper. Big yes on an OEM cylinder and piston kit. Aftermarkets just don't run the same. Be sure to pressurize and vacuum test the bottom end to ensure all seals/gaskets are good.
If you wipe the sawdust out before you put the caps on the Stihl's you won't have to store them on their sides that's why those tops leak I've had stills for over 20 years and I had to replace that cap once after about 15 I don't care what you have if you have sawdust in the way of the seal it's not going to work it only takes a second to wipe it out with your finger each time... That's why you tighten the husqvarna's with the wrench if there's dirt in there that's enough Force to make the seal
I'm a believer in amsoil small engine mix oil for your two cycle engines. I have used it for twenty five years 100: 1 mix ratio and I do not have any trouble with my saws ,trimmers etc in my lawn Care landscape business. Great stuff Tim thanks for sharing the vid. Your a true woods man who gets it done.
You might not have issues now, but 100:1 any oil will increase skirt wear on the piston and main bearings. No scoring, but reduced lifespan of the engines from insuficient lubrication and everything seems to "smooth out", and not in a good way. Just facts after taking apart many small engines ran at 100:1, 80:1, 50:1, 40:1 etc. Best results seen after equal hours of runtime was stuff ran on 40:1 down to 32:1, no matter the oil brand!
Another thing, at 100:1, even the tinniest of airleaks will kill your engine. There's no room to give, just a small airleak somewhere can cut the actual ratio of oil amount that the cylinder takes to the same amount as running 200:1 or worse, while a 30-40:1 in that situation could get the lubrication your 100:1 mix does.
Hi Tim: I like to use anti-seize on aluminum threads. Torque wrenches work well, also. I sold my last Husky not to long ago, and bought an electric Milwaukee. The Husky was a great saw, but my left shoulder has been replaced, and that saw was hard to crank. The VERY best wishes, and GOD BLESS! Gary
I just put a jug and piston on a ms441c-mq stihl. Husqvarna has stihl beat on ease of assembly for sure. We used to run 357xp saws but didn't have any luck out of them lasting more than 3 years. The last one we had burned up cutting a big tree. It wiped the rings completely out scored the piston bad. I thought someone put straight gas in it but it had mix gas in it when I dumped it out to check. The factory jug and piston was 159 dollars for this saw.
Tim now that you started and ran the saw since putting it back together you should recheck the compression PSI on it and I bet it shows a touch better than a hundred but either way 100 or above is plenty enough for that two-cycle engine, I know some people want to scream 125 or 140 but it's not a diesel engine and 100 or 105 and I've seen cases even 90 is good numbers in chainsaws that have ran forever with plenty of Torque... The main thing is to make sure there's no scoring or scarring or even scratches on the inside of the cylinders / jug and as long as the piston and rings that look good, then don't worry about ordering any parts for it and just use it because I think it's going to last you for a long while as long as you keep the gas and oil mixed right in it and I know you will
My guess is that cylinder and piston are just fine, every time i run compression tests and use the adapter to plug into the small hole i get low readings for some reason? I would go by feel when pulling the rope. I rebuilt so many stihl saws and I haven’t had any failures yet so im not simply acting like a know it all. Ebay you can get a cylinder kit for much less if your patient.
As a former part time job for years, I've done a lot of tree work, but left the repairs to my excellent mechanic. He told me that when adjusting the high speed jet, the engine should start to 'blubber' when run at full throttle under no load. Otherwise the mix was too lean. I noticed you saw was not doing that. Just curious.
Tim can correct me if I'm wrong, but pretty sure that's an Autotune saw, so no easy adjustments. My two Huskys are both Autotune. Husqvarna recommends 50/1 mix on these newer saws, which I think is just for EPA compliance, not saw longevity, and that could be equivalent to running too lean? I've been running 40/1, because that's what my other saws use, but maybe I'm going to have too much carbon down road?
@@stevec8861 I'm probably just out of date. Never heard of Autotune before. Between myself and another guy I worked for, we had maybe six saws and were on jobs maybe 30 hours a week for 15 years. Never wrecked a single saw, although we sometimes upgraded for faster and lighter. We ran Amzoil synthetic at a lean ratio that most people thought was crazy at the time. From an old-timer, I would guess the difference of 40 or 50 ain't a big deal. Some of the new stuff can be very picky sometimes though. Thanks for your reply.
@@jbbuzzable No big deal. Not sure when Husqvarna put Autotune on many of their pro saws, but it wasn't that long ago. I'm an amateur and my two Huskys are my first pro saws, purchased just this past spring when they were 20% off at NPE in Northport, AL, a Husqvarna distributor Tim promotes. Husqvarna's Autotune competes with Stihl's new fuel injection pro saw. When I started looking at pro saws, I didn't consider the Stihl fuel injection further after hearing you have to jury-rig the air filter to keep fines out of motor; just no excuse for a supposed reputable brand having an issue like that on their top of line saw. I hope Stihl has since gotten their act together and fixed that issue.
@@stevec8861 It actually works the other way with premix, less oil = greater percentage of fuel hence richer mixture overall. (well, theres 2 ways to look at 2t mix but for clarity I only use "rich/lean" in relation to fuelling. If I'm on about oiling then usually just stick with saying "too much/enough/not enough oil" Thus the way you're running, with more oil than recommended your saw actually likely runs leaner on fuel, hotter and as you say, more spooge buildup. It's not a huge difference but if you go to the recommended 50/1 I honestly think you'll see a small reduction in operating temperature, maybe better fuel usage and probably easier cold starting/idling.
@@danmackintosh6325 Thanks. Main reason I've been running 40/1 is that's what my older amateur grade saws use. I mix up a gallon at a time with ethanol-free gas and Red Armor oil as needed. Do most tree or timber professionals make sure to have different mixes on hand depending on what their various 2-stroke equipment calls for?
That is easy to disassemble Tim, that was fast putting it back together, anything that has a motor always breaks, it's part of it, that's cool that you cleaned it up an it runs again, Husqvarna makes awesome saws, thanks for sharing awesome content every day Tim, caps the day off after a hard day's work ya know 😂, have good week
@@hardtop123 ... I don't have to refer . You can't rebuild an engine without honing it for the new ring to seat. The cylinder will be shiny . the coating is somewhat thick and you don't want to go through but it needs to be ruffed up . Refer to my last statement.
90 to 110 is about normal average compression on most small 2 stroke engines, especially on a cold engine. if it doesn't run I'd be looking at ignition and carburetion first. spark plugs load up or foul real easily with age and junk from fuel/oil burnt onto the porcelain, the spark may look fine out of the head, but under compression may not fire at the gap and down a carbon track instead, or not at all. I've not had good luck with most every small engine spark plugs as of the last 5 years.
is there any adaptors on the compression tester? adaptors can cause iffy readings. Get it pressure tested to check it hasnt got an air leak otherwise you'll toast the new jug if its leaking air. Crank bearings are a common problem on those. Also the strato ports the little oring in there fails and causes an air leak.
I noticed a little bit of loss of compression with my 550xp. There is no scoring on the piston or cylinder like yours.I bought a new ring hoping it will fix my issue. Got everything put back together, but I can’t find one the carb bolts. Waiting for that to come in before I give it a try.
I forgot to mention him the last comment but I just at carburetor just a little bit since you've had it off the saw and put it back on but that'll correct it starting and quicker throttle response but I believe you got a good machine right there my man, that doesn't need anything done to it, other than that a little carb adjustment
Is Cotontop3 able to go and film an update of the prescribed burn/ fuel reduction burn areas that he burnt in the spring? (to see what the wet? summer regrowth is)Out west some logging crews have lost their heavy iron to the wildfires -need more verification on number etc) (2 stroke engines- one saw mechanic told me, he put a micrometer on used and new piston rings and could not tell the difference between them yet the saw would start first pull on new rings and not start at all on the used rings.) Hopefully it won't be too long before better batteries (e.g nanograf's silicon anode tech claiming 28 percent longer run time) make even better electric chainsaws.
Compression test was done wrong. You need to hold the throttle wide open while pulling the crank rope. Your compression gauge need to have the schrader valve in it also.
Good cutting saws,but they're prone to overheating thanks to the epa. Mine felt seized up when I tried to crank it. I got it to loosen up,but it took about 20 pulls to get it to start and it ran horribly rough. Checked the compression and it was on 85psi. This will be its 2nd rebuild in 8 years. The first one was in 2017 with oem parts. This time the cylinder looks fine,but the top and land of the piston have blistered and I think was leaking past the ring. I'm putting a meteor piston and caber ring in it this time. I've got a 10 year old stihl and a 20 year old stihl that I've never had to take apart. The husqvarna cuts fast,but it comes at the expense of longevity.
Amateur here in Shelby County Alabama. We talked for a bit at NPE open house this past spring. Great video and explanations. Do you think maybe rings were stuck from carbon buildup you mentioned cleaning out? Was wondering when/if rebuild required down road, is just replacing rings an option if piston and cylinder still look good?
You might get away with it, but I wouldn't bother with that. If your cylinder is ok, it would be a shame not to put a new piston in, even if it's a Meteor.
Tim, great video. Are you used to rebuilding a saw as soon as you've had to do this one? I haven't watched until the end of the video yet...mabye you've answered this question
Hi cotontop3 will you try motomix from stihl think you will like it because the oil on specification is better than Husqvarna oil mix look at the spec on both of them and you will see thank you
That's what happens when you run a saw at over 15,000 RPMs and that is the only reason why that saw cuts faster than an MS 261 it runs about 2,000 RPMs higher and look at it blew up!!!
Hey Tim go check out WBTV NEWS in Charlotte. To bad you didn't live close to NC. Could of gave you alot of work because we had a tornado touch down at a friend's house where I was building a fence . Alot of trees down and finally made the news . And of course I was wearing one of ur old shirts . Stay safe
The saws I bought came with a 30 day warranty since they knew that they were for commercial use. I didn't buy my equipment from Wal Mart since I needed high quality product and service. Who do you know that will obtain a part from Germany and have you saw running the next day?
Kind of crapy the author never answer any questions after this video or gave a follow up video on this saw. I had my heart set on this saw and was going to buy one yesterday until I saw this video. Loved how fast this saw seemed to cut but it also died fast too. So I ended up buying a Stihl 261 yesterday. I got a ms 170,500i and 5100 domar . Also your carbon buildup should have raised the compression ratio I would have thought. My dad got a husky 50 special he bought new in 1990 I believe. That saw got a ton of hours. Cut a ton of logs and firewood. Still uses it on a chainsaw mill. That saw unbelievable. Like to know how many hours are on it. Guess they don’t build them like they use to.
No compresion test , no measuring of the tolences, of the piston and head , rings . Cowboys engineering class . Just a loose sparkplug youtube video lol
Terrible crankseal design on these. Will eventually start to pull false air. The seal is nov pressed onto the inner bearing part, what happens is the crankshaft bearing starts to spin on the shaft itself and then giving you a leak which eventually will make it lean out due to the autotune.
Make sure your fuel filter is in the bottom forward part of the tank. Sometimes the fuel line gets wrapped around the fuel cap strap and when you turn it on its side the fuel filter is out of the fuel..
Did you go to trump university to get your macanic degree ? Your just fixing a sysmtoms not diagnosing the reasions why , this makes a bad macanic . I bet you sell it on eBay and call it done ✅
Stop using the husqvarna 2 stroke oil, buy klotz or amzoil. Husqvarna oil glazes the cylinder and drops the compression. I know husqvarna oil is not cheap it’s just inadequate.
I run the husq / redmax synthetic in all my stuff. Never had any issues. My redmax ebz8500 got run hard.....husq bought them out. I use that oil in my echo saws...not 1 issue....6 years
The piston ring contributes more to engine compression than does the piston and jug. Rings are cheap and easy to replace.
Was going to say the same thing... definitely try a new ring . heck might as well if its apart and has a good bit of time on it anyway. (could at least do a ring end gap check.)
Would be interesting to plug that saw into the computer at the dealer to see just how many hours are on it.
yep i was thinking the same thing....i see a lot of these fail at between 100 to 150 hours.....and have seen one fail at 6 hours too
All the carbon build up from using the husky 2 stoke oil
yuup. amsoil or echo red armor..
@@mattfleming86
Try Schaeffers tc-w3 is a good oil
@@danielmitchell2659 What other ratings does it have? It's typically a bad idea to run tcw3 marine oil in air cooled 2 strokes. Combustion chamber temperatures don't mesh well.
@@mattfleming86
How about the motul 800??
@@danielmitchell2659 Big fan of Motul 800 off-road in all 2 strokes I use. From my trimmer to my 881 on the mill, very happy how the insides look after 1000+ hours of use.
I bet the plating on the cylinder has worn down enough to cause excessive ring end gap and bore taper. Big yes on an OEM cylinder and piston kit. Aftermarkets just don't run the same. Be sure to pressurize and vacuum test the bottom end to ensure all seals/gaskets are good.
If you wipe the sawdust out before you put the caps on the Stihl's you won't have to store them on their sides that's why those tops leak I've had stills for over 20 years and I had to replace that cap once after about 15 I don't care what you have if you have sawdust in the way of the seal it's not going to work it only takes a second to wipe it out with your finger each time... That's why you tighten the husqvarna's with the wrench if there's dirt in there that's enough Force to make the seal
I'm a believer in amsoil small engine mix oil for your two cycle engines. I have used it for twenty five years 100: 1 mix ratio and I do not have any trouble with my saws ,trimmers etc in my lawn Care landscape business. Great stuff Tim thanks for sharing the vid. Your a true woods man who gets it done.
You might not have issues now, but 100:1 any oil will increase skirt wear on the piston and main bearings. No scoring, but reduced lifespan of the engines from insuficient lubrication and everything seems to "smooth out", and not in a good way. Just facts after taking apart many small engines ran at 100:1, 80:1, 50:1, 40:1 etc. Best results seen after equal hours of runtime was stuff ran on 40:1 down to 32:1, no matter the oil brand!
Another thing, at 100:1, even the tinniest of airleaks will kill your engine. There's no room to give, just a small airleak somewhere can cut the actual ratio of oil amount that the cylinder takes to the same amount as running 200:1 or worse, while a 30-40:1 in that situation could get the lubrication your 100:1 mix does.
Hi Tim:
I like to use anti-seize on aluminum threads. Torque wrenches work well, also.
I sold my last Husky not to long ago, and bought an electric Milwaukee. The Husky was a great saw, but my left shoulder has been replaced, and that saw was hard to crank.
The VERY best wishes, and GOD BLESS!
Gary
I just put a jug and piston on a ms441c-mq stihl. Husqvarna has stihl beat on ease of assembly for sure. We used to run 357xp saws but didn't have any luck out of them lasting more than 3 years. The last one we had burned up cutting a big tree. It wiped the rings completely out scored the piston bad. I thought someone put straight gas in it but it had mix gas in it when I dumped it out to check. The factory jug and piston was 159 dollars for this saw.
159$ does not sound too bad!
Tim now that you started and ran the saw since putting it back together you should recheck the compression PSI on it and I bet it shows a touch better than a hundred but either way 100 or above is plenty enough for that two-cycle engine, I know some people want to scream 125 or 140 but it's not a diesel engine and 100 or 105 and I've seen cases even 90 is good numbers in chainsaws that have ran forever with plenty of Torque... The main thing is to make sure there's no scoring or scarring or even scratches on the inside of the cylinders / jug and as long as the piston and rings that look good, then don't worry about ordering any parts for it and just use it because I think it's going to last you for a long while as long as you keep the gas and oil mixed right in it and I know you will
Maybe the piston ring is worn. Usually when engines have lots of hours on them the ring gap opens and lose compression.
My guess is that cylinder and piston are just fine, every time i run compression tests and use the adapter to plug into the small hole i get low readings for some reason? I would go by feel when pulling the rope. I rebuilt so many stihl saws and I haven’t had any failures yet so im not simply acting like a know it all. Ebay you can get a cylinder kit for much less if your patient.
That vise is about the only thing that will hold that 550 XP down
I bought a husky 61 grey top today for 50 bucks guy said didn't run.....got it home and it fired on the 2nd pull lol guess I better play the lotto
As a former part time job for years, I've done a lot of tree work, but left the repairs to my excellent mechanic. He told me that when adjusting the high speed jet, the engine should start to 'blubber' when run at full throttle under no load. Otherwise the mix was too lean. I noticed you saw was not doing that. Just curious.
Tim can correct me if I'm wrong, but pretty sure that's an Autotune saw, so no easy adjustments. My two Huskys are both Autotune. Husqvarna recommends 50/1 mix on these newer saws, which I think is just for EPA compliance, not saw longevity, and that could be equivalent to running too lean? I've been running 40/1, because that's what my other saws use, but maybe I'm going to have too much carbon down road?
@@stevec8861 I'm probably just out of date. Never heard of Autotune before. Between myself and another guy I worked for, we had maybe six saws and were on jobs maybe 30 hours a week for 15 years. Never wrecked a single saw, although we sometimes upgraded for faster and lighter. We ran Amzoil synthetic at a lean ratio that most people thought was crazy at the time. From an old-timer, I would guess the difference of 40 or 50 ain't a big deal. Some of the new stuff can be very picky sometimes though.
Thanks for your reply.
@@jbbuzzable No big deal. Not sure when Husqvarna put Autotune on many of their pro saws, but it wasn't that long ago. I'm an amateur and my two Huskys are my first pro saws, purchased just this past spring when they were 20% off at NPE in Northport, AL, a Husqvarna distributor Tim promotes. Husqvarna's Autotune competes with Stihl's new fuel injection pro saw. When I started looking at pro saws, I didn't consider the Stihl fuel injection further after hearing you have to jury-rig the air filter to keep fines out of motor; just no excuse for a supposed reputable brand having an issue like that on their top of line saw. I hope Stihl has since gotten their act together and fixed that issue.
@@stevec8861 It actually works the other way with premix, less oil = greater percentage of fuel hence richer mixture overall. (well, theres 2 ways to look at 2t mix but for clarity I only use "rich/lean" in relation to fuelling. If I'm on about oiling then usually just stick with saying "too much/enough/not enough oil" Thus the way you're running, with more oil than recommended your saw actually likely runs leaner on fuel, hotter and as you say, more spooge buildup. It's not a huge difference but if you go to the recommended 50/1 I honestly think you'll see a small reduction in operating temperature, maybe better fuel usage and probably easier cold starting/idling.
@@danmackintosh6325 Thanks. Main reason I've been running 40/1 is that's what my older amateur grade saws use. I mix up a gallon at a time with ethanol-free gas and Red Armor oil as needed. Do most tree or timber professionals make sure to have different mixes on hand depending on what their various 2-stroke equipment calls for?
That is easy to disassemble Tim, that was fast putting it back together, anything that has a motor always breaks, it's part of it, that's cool that you cleaned it up an it runs again, Husqvarna makes awesome saws, thanks for sharing awesome content every day Tim, caps the day off after a hard day's work ya know 😂, have good week
I'd hone the cylinder and put a new ring on it . That would be all it needs to bring up the compression
not a good idea to do that to a chrome cylinder as you will rip the plating off it
@@hardtop123 ... anytime you replace the rings the cylinder needs to be honed or it won't seat
@@goodboyringo9716 refer to my previous statement....
@@hardtop123 ... I don't have to refer . You can't rebuild an engine without honing it for the new ring to seat. The cylinder will be shiny . the coating is somewhat thick and you don't want to go through but it needs to be ruffed up . Refer to my last statement.
Probably showed little more compression from the oil in the rings from assembly good call I’d build it!
The problem to topend kill is the 50:1 mix use no less than 40:1 no more than 32:1
90 to 110 is about normal average compression on most small 2 stroke engines, especially on a cold engine. if it doesn't run I'd be looking at ignition and carburetion first.
spark plugs load up or foul real easily with age and junk from fuel/oil burnt onto the porcelain, the spark may look fine out of the head, but under compression may not fire at the gap and down a carbon track instead, or not at all. I've not had good luck with most every small engine spark plugs as of the last 5 years.
my dolmars are 170. My 372xp is 140. 90-110 is very low.
is there any adaptors on the compression tester? adaptors can cause iffy readings. Get it pressure tested to check it hasnt got an air leak otherwise you'll toast the new jug if its leaking air. Crank bearings are a common problem on those. Also the strato ports the little oring in there fails and causes an air leak.
seems like it wore out super fast
His most used saw. I am sure it has a bunch of hours on it.
I noticed a little bit of loss of compression with my 550xp. There is no scoring on the piston or cylinder like yours.I bought a new ring hoping it will fix my issue. Got everything put back together, but I can’t find one the carb bolts. Waiting for that to come in before I give it a try.
maybe just a new piston and ring would do it. Cyl looked really good. check the exh. screen.
Or maybe just run the thing. Oh wait. He already said that.
That is one awesome vise you got Tim!
I forgot to mention him the last comment but I just at carburetor just a little bit since you've had it off the saw and put it back on but that'll correct it starting and quicker throttle response but I believe you got a good machine right there my man, that doesn't need anything done to it, other than that a little carb adjustment
Is Cotontop3 able to go and film an update of the prescribed burn/ fuel reduction burn areas that he burnt in the spring? (to see what the wet? summer regrowth is)Out west some logging crews have lost their heavy iron to the wildfires -need more verification on number etc) (2 stroke engines- one saw mechanic told me, he put a micrometer on used and new piston rings and could not tell the difference between them yet the saw would start first pull on new rings and not start at all on the used rings.) Hopefully it won't be too long before better batteries (e.g nanograf's silicon anode tech claiming 28 percent longer run time) make even better electric chainsaws.
Compression test was done wrong. You need to hold the throttle wide open while pulling the crank rope. Your compression gauge need to have the schrader valve in it also.
Your are correct, but from what I seen after he bolted the cylinder back on, he never had the carburetor on yet.
Can’t keep a good saw down Tim
Would you still recommend the 550xp Mark 2 after this experience?
Looked pretty good in there . Keep us informed .
So you think the carbon buildup caused the problem? Thanks Tim good idea I have an old saw that I will take a second look at.
Nice bench vise😊
Good cutting saws,but they're prone to overheating thanks to the epa. Mine felt seized up when I tried to crank it. I got it to loosen up,but it took about 20 pulls to get it to start and it ran horribly rough. Checked the compression and it was on 85psi. This will be its 2nd rebuild in 8 years. The first one was in 2017 with oem parts. This time the cylinder looks fine,but the top and land of the piston have blistered and I think was leaking past the ring. I'm putting a meteor piston and caber ring in it this time. I've got a 10 year old stihl and a 20 year old stihl that I've never had to take apart. The husqvarna cuts fast,but it comes at the expense of longevity.
A brilliant clip& very interesting!- in conclusion-just worn ring & cylinder? love to follow how things go with this saw!-many thanks👍
Amateur here in Shelby County Alabama. We talked for a bit at NPE open house this past spring. Great video and explanations. Do you think maybe rings were stuck from carbon buildup you mentioned cleaning out? Was wondering when/if rebuild required down road, is just replacing rings an option if piston and cylinder still look good?
You might get away with it, but I wouldn't bother with that.
If your cylinder is ok, it would be a shame not to put a new piston in, even if it's a Meteor.
Are you still using Husqvarna's premix fuel Tim?
How many hours on it you reckon.
Toss a New Piston Ring On That Piston and a New Head Gskt and Should Be Golden 😀😊
Is that the same saw you mentioned previously being a little slow to crank, you thought it was gonna need a little carburetor work?
Decompressor ? Or it not equipped
Good thing you have a bunch of stihls around 😂
Ye they never go wrong!
Tim maybe it's something electronic that caused the 550 to take a poop on you during a job
You read a dry cylinder reading check after it ran
We call that operator error!!!
That auto-tune must be running it to lean
Tim, great video. Are you used to rebuilding a saw as soon as you've had to do this one? I haven't watched until the end of the video yet...mabye you've answered this question
Is this thing still running good or did you have to put a piston and jug in it? Wonder what made it carbon up so bad lose compression?
Can we get an update on the saw? what happened?
keep running it?
new ring?
Sorry a piston replacement also-
Probably had a air boot leak that will happen
Dang Husqy😁
Crank seal?
Hi cotontop3 will you try motomix from stihl think you will like it because the oil on specification is better than Husqvarna oil mix look at the spec on both of them and you will see thank you
Is this the chainsaw 2 years old?
How many hours you got on it?
Had saws run on 90 psi, just not real strong
You know if you are real good you can hold that light between your toes lol
What size bar and chain size do you have on that saw?
That's what happens when you run a saw at over 15,000 RPMs and that is the only reason why that saw cuts faster than an MS 261 it runs about 2,000 RPMs higher and look at it blew up!!!
Sthil it s Better! I have 261 mtronik no problem issues
Maximum rpm is 10,200.
@@prairiegold6870 max rpm on a 550XP is 13,000rpm
Got my cutting in last night
Do you think the compression was low because no fuel? (After reassembly)
Did you lose a bearing Tim?
Great job Tim, You are no joke man, fair play:):)
What is your choice of 2 stroke oil?
I run ams Intersector with 110 race fuel/ 91. With a splash of sea foam
last I knew he switched to the Husqvarna per mixed gas
@@johnhaas2523 yes I mix 50:1
Crank seal.
Hey Tim go check out WBTV NEWS in Charlotte. To bad you didn't live close to NC. Could of gave you alot of work because we had a tornado touch down at a friend's house where I was building a fence . Alot of trees down and finally made the news . And of course I was wearing one of ur old shirts . Stay safe
That looks like a fairly new saw Tim. Shouldn’t it be under warranty?
The saws I bought came with a 30 day warranty since they knew that they were for commercial use.
I didn't buy my equipment from Wal Mart since I needed high quality product and service.
Who do you know that will obtain a part from Germany and have you saw running the next day?
Kind of crapy the author never answer any questions after this video or gave a follow up video on this saw. I had my heart set on this saw and was going to buy one yesterday until I saw this video. Loved how fast this saw seemed to cut but it also died fast too. So I ended up buying a Stihl 261 yesterday. I got a ms 170,500i and 5100 domar . Also your carbon buildup should have raised the compression ratio I would have thought. My dad got a husky 50 special he bought new in 1990 I believe. That saw got a ton of hours. Cut a ton of logs and firewood. Still uses it on a chainsaw mill. That saw unbelievable. Like to know how many hours are on it. Guess they don’t build them like they use to.
How many hours did u have on that 550xp??
No compresion test , no measuring of the tolences, of the piston and head , rings .
Cowboys engineering class .
Just a loose sparkplug youtube video lol
Good stuff.
Take makita chainsaw they work well all days. EA5000 is good saw!
ck your side prots for leaks and did you put a new jug gasket. ck your crank seals befor you buy a new jug
Great video Mr tim
Terrible crankseal design on these. Will eventually start to pull false air. The seal is nov pressed onto the inner bearing part, what happens is the crankshaft bearing starts to spin on the shaft itself and then giving you a leak which eventually will make it lean out due to the autotune.
Take it back to the shop its got a 2 year warranty on it,
Should have gotten a stihl they have 2 piston rings instead of 1 stihl is built to last husky is built to run fast and look good that’s about it.
Ye man, you pay for what you get. Buy cheap and it blows up. Spend and the last for ever.
he was sent this saw from husky
👍
Hmmm
My 550 keeps shuting off when i turn it sideways runs fine just shuts off
Make sure your fuel filter is in the bottom forward part of the tank. Sometimes the fuel line gets wrapped around the fuel cap strap and when you turn it on its side the fuel filter is out of the fuel..
Ihr wisst ja garnix, einfach mal was lernen und nicht so einen müll produzieren
Did you go to trump university to get your macanic degree ?
Your just fixing a sysmtoms not diagnosing the reasions why , this makes a bad macanic .
I bet you sell it on eBay and call it done ✅
Stop using the husqvarna 2 stroke oil, buy klotz or amzoil. Husqvarna oil glazes the cylinder and drops the compression. I know husqvarna oil is not cheap it’s just inadequate.
I run the husq / redmax synthetic in all my stuff. Never had any issues. My redmax ebz8500 got run hard.....husq bought them out.
I use that oil in my echo saws...not 1 issue....6 years