Never knew this could be so easy! Every time a boot split, I have been changing for a s/h driveshaft! Changed both boots in 90 minutes this afternoon thanks to your little tutorial here. Thank you SO much Andy. Really appreciated.
It's one thing to know how to do it, another thing to do it, but it's a monster undertaking to show/teach how to do it! You accounted for all three conditions and did an AWESOME JOB! Thanks from across the pond!😎
Wow! Thank you for your kind comment Stephen! I am always keen to help other non-mechanics gain the confidence to give these jobs a go! Much appreciated!
Such a good and informative video Andy. I’m due to replace my inner cv joint so this certainly helped with literally every bit of info I needed. You've also saved me money! Thanks mate
Thanks my friend, just doing mine now. I was concerned oil would pour out when you removed the inner boot bolts . Apparently not. Cheers. Good video. 😊
Thanks for the video! I've just encountered the same issue with the rounded off allen bolt - nightmare! Is there any method to removing this? Did you do the video you mentioned about how you went about it? Cheers
Hi there. Are you talking about the 6 bolts that hold the driveshaft in place? I would hammer an oversize torx bit in and undo it that way. You need to replace the bolts for new stretch bolts for the job anyhow. Otherwise they could come undone and that would be a very bad idea.
Thank you! I’ve took my S3 drive shaft out to replace the inner boot and couldn’t see where the circlip was to release it, there’s a cover! Thanks again 😆👍🏻
Hi Albert. Thanks for your comment. Unfortunately I do not have a rear suspension removal video, other thank the replacment of rear shocks. Let me know if I can help you in any way though!
Thanks for this video need to undertake the same on my TT and this was just the guide I needed. Are you able to post the relevant torque settings in the description?
Hi Christopher. Yes I need to do that! I have added the torque settings to the description. Thanks for your feedback! more videos coming to the channel this week so don't be shy with the bell! Cheers! Andy
Andy. Great video, exactly what I needed to watch. So you have details/source for the gaiter/boot and the 6 bolts purchase, I've already bought one gaiter that didn't fit. Thanks Clive
Hi Clive. Thanks for your comments. So there is an inner and outer boot and front and rear as I’m sure you have discovered! Euro car parts were no help so I went to my local car spares shop in Paddock Wood and they had it off the shelf! I’m not sure where you are based but they are cracking for that sort of thing. Let me know how you go!
Thanks for the video, really helped me today. One thing I struggled with was the track rod end. As you said, the nut and bolt thread just spin so tried using a spanner on the nut with an Allen key in the thread but it wouldn't budge and I had a feeling the Allen hole in the thread was about to get rounded off. In the end, I just left the track rod end still attached and was able to get the drive shaft out ok.
Great to hear that the video helped you out Chris! Was it an MOT issue that forced you to change it? This was the 1st “proper” job I undertook on the TT. Can’t believe it was a year ago I did mine! I’m glad you got it sorted and back on the road 👍
Wish I could do this. Mine needs doing and I cant afford to grt it done . Reached the point now where I just hope it keeps going and gets me where I'm going . I've got about 9 months of mot left hoping it plods along till then atleast. Good video
Buddy, you CAN do this! I had no idea when I started this job and learned as I went along. Saves that garage bill and it’s just the part! I hope you get it sorted!
Hi thank you for this! - Really clearly explained Q my torque wrench has range 28-210Nm (fingers crossed my hub bolt is ribbed) .. will I struggle using this 18" wrench for the smaller bits (like the splines?)
Hi Louis! That is a great question! It is rather tight for space when removing the spline bolts. Provided you have some extender socket bars to get the head of the socket wrench into the wheel space you should be fine. Thanks for watching and the kind words and let me know if you need any more help! Andy
@@andycharger thanks for reply I tried that but no effect I used big rattle gun to get them off but I need to torque up putting on. Is it because I have other side off floor as well? 👍
@@steveburden1801 might well be. I hope not did the one side so might have used the resistance maybe? I would have thought the transmission should have been enough though.
@@andycharger thanks for the reply we will get there I just like to take a step back sometimes and not break anything. Great video helped in changing the boot just awaiting the part now👍
Hi mark. Thanks for your question. Make sure the steering lock is engaged before starting and wheels are straight. Keeps all parts from moving out of alignment and they go back together spot on. I hope that helps mate! Thanks for watching and send over any more Q’s you may have! Andy
@@MarkNealon Glad it helped! Dont forget to smash that like button and subscribe for more help in the future ;) lots more jobs coming to the channel soon!
@@andycharger sorry for the noob Q is steering lock engaged by just locking the car? don't want to mess up my alignment. I've seen bws tt use spray paint in one of his videos to make sure the bolts go back in the same place
@@louisheath2791 I would get the wheels straight and lock the steering to keep everything in the right place for reassembly. I should have pointed that out on my video. Don’t be sorry, I’m a noob too!
So my lower wishbone arm has snapped and the driveshaft has come out of the gear box end can I replace boot and re grease and re install or do I need a new driveshaft, the rest is still in the gearbox juthe the grease and other bit popped out
Thank you so much for this video mate all taken off lower arm was snapped too so took that off and the driveshaft just waiting on new to put in @andycharger
I have a tidy 2003 1.8 Quattro coupe 225(stage 2 tuned) The Mot has only 3 weeks left & I only want £1400 as it is. Although I would rather renew MOT as AutoUncle values them at around £2300 up to £3300 for its current mileage. I reckon for a quick sale simply ask about £1700 with a new MOT. My TT has exactly the same issue. Is there a way to simply glue the small split in my gator, since I am only looking to sell the car for just about the same price as the car stands me in (maybe even make a small profit)inc the new MOT cost. Otherwise, I will eat into my budget unnecessarily as I simply need it fit enough to pass MOT. Edit: Thank u 4 advice, the car passed & after a clean found the gaiter was actually ok ;)Very useful to know in future tho.
Thanks for the video. Well explained. Just one suggestion, a flood light when working underneath. But well done. Thanks. Just subscribed. I have a 2001 225 stage 1 roadster.
Hi there and thanks for the feedback and subscription! I do actually have a floodlight and used it on the video believe it or not. I probably need to position it better I’m looking to do a “channel car stories” video on here to find out more about everyone else’s car. Would you be interested in being one of the cars featured? Let me know mate! Thanks again! 👍
@@andycharger Morning Andy. That would be fine. Just had the cambelt etc/rocker cover gasket/ oil strainer and thermostat replaced by BRNTT. Give me a shout when you want anything. Al
Hi Louis. I got 2 kits as the 1st was the wrong part (it was the outer gaiter) and it only came with the larger clip. I would say you need both to ensure the grease stays inside the gaiter. So it seals. I reckon you could use a jubilee clip if there is not one in the kit. Be warned that bit is messy!!!
@@andycharger I had to hack saw my tie rod end too .. bitch of a job. Trying to get the driveshaft off the gearbox now, how do you stop it spinning while undoing the M10 splines ?
For anyone wondering, put it in gear. If that doesn't work put the driveshaft back in the hub, put a couple wheel bolts in and shove a screwdriver in the side of the brake disc
@@louisheath2791 good advice that sir! I would also say ensure the steering lock is on. It makes alignment of the lower wishbone much easier when putting it back together!
@@andycharger Yes, of course. Disassembling was fine. First fail : I had new boot since a while but … Wrong part ! Not the good diameter. Anyway, just ordered the good one ;)
@@renedewael9703 Yes there appears to be at least 4 types. Front inner CV boot is different to rear inner CV boot as the rear has a brass like disc attached to the boot you screw to the car. The outer front CV boot is again different and easier to replace ( you dont need to take the driveshaft off). The rear boots might be different again Quattro and non Quattro models.
@@andycharger Hi ! It’s me again. Driveshaft is rebuild. Since I don’t understand all the name of the pieces in english, I wonder about the torque for the six bolds, as you mentionned. It’s 70 nm ? Right ? And in the end, when I’ll replace the bolds, the axle will probably rotate. How to block it ? Engage a gear ? Is it safe ? Thanx again ;)
the good thing about the VAG group is that you don't need to drain the gearbox to remove the transmissions, most of the other brands have a transmission that fits into the differential and if you forget to drain all your oil it falls on you when you take it apart 🤣
Never knew this could be so easy! Every time a boot split, I have been changing for a s/h driveshaft! Changed both boots in 90 minutes this afternoon thanks to your little tutorial here. Thank you SO much Andy. Really appreciated.
Thanks for your comments! Reading that I have helped someone out like that makes it all worthwhile! Thanks for your support! 👍
Great video. Just so anyone is aware, It’s advised by Audi to always replace the cv bolts with new bolts as there stretch bolts.
You are quite right Jamie. They do suggest that and I omitted it from my video in error. Thanks for the extra info sir! I will add to the description!
It's one thing to know how to do it, another thing to do it, but it's a monster undertaking to show/teach how to do it! You accounted for all three conditions and did an AWESOME JOB! Thanks from across the pond!😎
Wow! Thank you for your kind comment Stephen! I am always keen to help other non-mechanics gain the confidence to give these jobs a go! Much appreciated!
@@andycharger I didn't give it pal, you earned it. This one and you videos on brake pads as well, Kudos!
Much appreciated! I am glad my videos are enjoyable and helpful!
Excellent video which makes me feel a lot happier paying for a professional to do the job for me!
Hi Andy, Many thanks. Just in the process of doing a gater change on my 2003 TT. Your video is excellent. Cheers
Great to hear it helped you Albert. Thanks for the feedback on the video and the channel!
Such a good and informative video Andy. I’m due to replace my inner cv joint so this certainly helped with literally every bit of info I needed. You've also saved me money! Thanks mate
Thanks for the feedback buddy. I’m glad it helps! 👍
Thanks my friend, just doing mine now. I was concerned oil would pour out when you removed the inner boot bolts . Apparently not. Cheers. Good video. 😊
Thanks for your kind words on the video. Im glad it helped you do the job yourself! Thanks for supporting the channel!
One of the best illustration I have seen. Thank you very much.
Thank you very much for your kind words. I hope the video helps you out and you find the steps straight forward. Any questions, please do let me know!
Nice and clear video! Especially the footage of the joint dissassembly. Love it!
Thanks man! Appreciated! 👍
Thanks for the video! I've just encountered the same issue with the rounded off allen bolt - nightmare! Is there any method to removing this? Did you do the video you mentioned about how you went about it?
Cheers
Hi there. Are you talking about the 6 bolts that hold the driveshaft in place? I would hammer an oversize torx bit in and undo it that way. You need to replace the bolts for new stretch bolts for the job anyhow. Otherwise they could come undone and that would be a very bad idea.
Thank you! I’ve took my S3 drive shaft out to replace the inner boot and couldn’t see where the circlip was to release it, there’s a cover! Thanks again 😆👍🏻
Nice one mate! Im glad I could help you out. Its a fair old messy job too. I hope you got it sorted!
What is the right torque setting you set on each bolts?
It’s in the video description Bruno
Andy you don’t happen to have a previous episode on removing rear suspension to facilitate the renewal of a gasket on top of the haldex? Just asking😅
Hi Albert. Thanks for your comment. Unfortunately I do not have a rear suspension removal video, other thank the replacment of rear shocks. Let me know if I can help you in any way though!
Thanks for this video need to undertake the same on my TT and this was just the guide I needed. Are you able to post the relevant torque settings in the description?
Hi Christopher. Yes I need to do that! I have added the torque settings to the description. Thanks for your feedback! more videos coming to the channel this week so don't be shy with the bell! Cheers! Andy
Andy. Great video, exactly what I needed to watch.
So you have details/source for the gaiter/boot and the 6 bolts purchase, I've already bought one gaiter that didn't fit.
Thanks
Clive
Hi Clive. Thanks for your comments. So there is an inner and outer boot and front and rear as I’m sure you have discovered! Euro car parts were no help so I went to my local car spares shop in Paddock Wood and they had it off the shelf! I’m not sure where you are based but they are cracking for that sort of thing. Let me know how you go!
Thanks for the video, really helped me today. One thing I struggled with was the track rod end. As you said, the nut and bolt thread just spin so tried using a spanner on the nut with an Allen key in the thread but it wouldn't budge and I had a feeling the Allen hole in the thread was about to get rounded off.
In the end, I just left the track rod end still attached and was able to get the drive shaft out ok.
Great to hear that the video helped you out Chris! Was it an MOT issue that forced you to change it? This was the 1st “proper” job I undertook on the TT. Can’t believe it was a year ago I did mine! I’m glad you got it sorted and back on the road 👍
@@andycharger yes, annoyingly the boot was split so failed the MOT. Same for me, this is the most mechanic work I've ever done on a car. Thanks again.
@@cw2002 I have mine Monday! 🤞
@@andycharger retest for me then as well!
A great DIY video! Many thanks. It might - just! - give me the incentive/confidence to try it myself!
Definitely give it a go Julian! You can do it! Thanks for the feedback buddy!
Wish I could do this. Mine needs doing and I cant afford to grt it done . Reached the point now where I just hope it keeps going and gets me where I'm going . I've got about 9 months of mot left hoping it plods along till then atleast. Good video
Buddy, you CAN do this! I had no idea when I started this job and learned as I went along. Saves that garage bill and it’s just the part! I hope you get it sorted!
Well done recording, with out covering the camera in grease
Ha ha! Thanks Steven! It truly is one MESSY job!
@@andycharger steven *
@@stevenharpervw very sorry sir! Blame the fat Sunday fingers! No idea why it autocorrected that! Updated and apologies!!!
@@andycharger no worries, autocorrect is shirt
Hi Andy, this helped me doing the gator replace on my VW MK4 R32, parts looks the same. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback buddy! It’s good to know this works on VWs too!!thanks for your support👍
looks like you ve done this all your life!!! great vid
Thank you! I massively appreciate your comment but can assure you this was my 1st time! 👍
Hi thank you for this! - Really clearly explained
Q my torque wrench has range 28-210Nm (fingers crossed my hub bolt is ribbed) .. will I struggle using this 18" wrench for the smaller bits (like the splines?)
Hi Louis! That is a great question! It is rather tight for space when removing the spline bolts. Provided you have some extender socket bars to get the head of the socket wrench into the wheel space you should be fine. Thanks for watching and the kind words and let me know if you need any more help! Andy
Maybe a stupid question but how did you stop the drive shaft rotating when you were undoing the spline bolts on the drive shaft gear box end?
Engage 1st gear mate! 👍
@@andycharger thanks for reply I tried that but no effect I used big rattle gun to get them off but I need to torque up putting on. Is it because I have other side off floor as well? 👍
@@steveburden1801 might well be. I hope not did the one side so might have used the resistance maybe? I would have thought the transmission should have been enough though.
@@andycharger thanks for the reply we will get there I just like to take a step back sometimes and not break anything. Great video helped in changing the boot just awaiting the part now👍
Quick question, where do I find the torque numbers?
Hi Lukas, I have added them in the movie description below. Thanks for watching! I hope you found it useful! 👍
Question: how do you make sure the three bolts under the steering knuckle are properly aligned when resembling?
Hi mark. Thanks for your question. Make sure the steering lock is engaged before starting and wheels are straight. Keeps all parts from moving out of alignment and they go back together spot on. I hope that helps mate! Thanks for watching and send over any more Q’s you may have! Andy
@@andycharger thanks. Really helpful 👍
@@MarkNealon Glad it helped! Dont forget to smash that like button and subscribe for more help in the future ;) lots more jobs coming to the channel soon!
@@andycharger sorry for the noob Q is steering lock engaged by just locking the car? don't want to mess up my alignment.
I've seen bws tt use spray paint in one of his videos to make sure the bolts go back in the same place
@@louisheath2791 I would get the wheels straight and lock the steering to keep everything in the right place for reassembly. I should have pointed that out on my video. Don’t be sorry, I’m a noob too!
So my lower wishbone arm has snapped and the driveshaft has come out of the gear box end can I replace boot and re grease and re install or do I need a new driveshaft, the rest is still in the gearbox juthe the grease and other bit popped out
If it goes back together then you should be ok 👌
@andycharger thanks will let you know how I get on on Monday when I attempt it
@@charliecook184 good luck mate!
Thank you so much for this video mate all taken off lower arm was snapped too so took that off and the driveshaft just waiting on new to put in @andycharger
@@charliecook184 I’m glad it helped you! 👍
I seriously cannot find a single video that does the rear driveshaft and boot. Do they never fail?
I’m sure they do. All of them have Rubber boots that split. Once I have one happen to me I will be sure to cover it 👍
Superb tuturial
Thank you very much for your kind words
I have a tidy 2003 1.8 Quattro coupe 225(stage 2 tuned)
The Mot has only 3 weeks left & I only want £1400
as it is. Although I would rather renew MOT as AutoUncle
values them at around £2300 up to £3300 for its current
mileage.
I reckon for a quick sale simply ask about £1700 with
a new MOT.
My TT has exactly the same issue.
Is there a way to simply glue the small split in my
gator, since I am only looking to sell the car for just about
the same price as the car stands me in (maybe even
make a small profit)inc the new MOT cost.
Otherwise, I will eat into my budget unnecessarily
as I simply need it fit enough to pass MOT.
Edit: Thank u 4 advice, the car passed & after a clean found the gaiter was actually ok ;)Very useful to know in future tho.
I think you can buy a universal CV boot that stretches over and can fit over the top. Have a look on google for one using that as a search term 👍
@@andycharger i think halfords stock them
Thanks for the video. Well explained. Just one suggestion, a flood light when working underneath. But well done. Thanks. Just subscribed. I have a 2001 225 stage 1 roadster.
Hi there and thanks for the feedback and subscription! I do actually have a floodlight and used it on the video believe it or not. I probably need to position it better I’m looking to do a “channel car stories” video on here to find out more about everyone else’s car. Would you be interested in being one of the cars featured? Let me know mate! Thanks again! 👍
@@andycharger Morning Andy. That would be fine. Just had the cambelt etc/rocker cover gasket/ oil strainer and thermostat replaced by BRNTT. Give me a shout when you want anything. Al
Hey Andy did your original broken gaiter have an inner clip? I've got a replacement kit from febi and it only has an outer clip
Hi Louis. I got 2 kits as the 1st was the wrong part (it was the outer gaiter) and it only came with the larger clip. I would say you need both to ensure the grease stays inside the gaiter. So it seals. I reckon you could use a jubilee clip if there is not one in the kit. Be warned that bit is messy!!!
@@andycharger cheers Andy, I think my split one has only one outer and a narrow neck before the smallest bulge
@@andycharger I had to hack saw my tie rod end too .. bitch of a job.
Trying to get the driveshaft off the gearbox now, how do you stop it spinning while undoing the M10 splines ?
For anyone wondering, put it in gear. If that doesn't work put the driveshaft back in the hub, put a couple wheel bolts in and shove a screwdriver in the side of the brake disc
@@louisheath2791 good advice that sir! I would also say ensure the steering lock is on. It makes alignment of the lower wishbone much easier when putting it back together!
Great video ! I have to do exactly the same job on the same boot, on the same TT ;) Very helpful. Thanx !
Good luck with it Rene and do let me know if you have any further questions!
@@andycharger Yes, of course. Disassembling was fine. First fail : I had new boot since a while but … Wrong part ! Not the good diameter. Anyway, just ordered the good one ;)
@@renedewael9703 Yes there appears to be at least 4 types. Front inner CV boot is different to rear inner CV boot as the rear has a brass like disc attached to the boot you screw to the car. The outer front CV boot is again different and easier to replace ( you dont need to take the driveshaft off). The rear boots might be different again Quattro and non Quattro models.
@@andycharger Hi ! It’s me again. Driveshaft is rebuild. Since I don’t understand all the name of the pieces in english, I wonder about the torque for the six bolds, as you mentionned.
It’s 70 nm ? Right ?
And in the end, when I’ll replace the bolds, the axle will probably rotate.
How to block it ? Engage a gear ? Is it safe ?
Thanx again ;)
Set the correct setting ( torx ) ?.. how mutch
All torque settings are listed in the video description. Thanks for the comment!
Awesome video, thanks 🙏
Thank you for the kind feedback 👍
the good thing about the VAG group is that you don't need to drain the gearbox to remove the transmissions, most of the other brands have a transmission that fits into the differential and if you forget to drain all your oil it falls on you when you take it apart 🤣
Remember to use blue loctite on the bolts. Very Important.
Brilliant ! 🤩
Thank you Christopher! 👍
That's a rear axle not a drive shaft. Drive shaft connects from Tcase to Haldex (rear diff) but good video.
Its not the rear axle! This is the front of the car dude! Its the driveshaft!
Mint👍
Cheers Rob 👍
A word to the wise, do not install the CV bolts without coating them with blue loctite.