Cutting Tape on a Puma 89 with a Trio of Packing Peanuts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- I just received this Puma 89 and determined that it needs a hone. I show how my honing method allows me to determine that the previous sharpener used tape on the spine. I find a little damage on the edge, and I show what is necessary for me to correct that damage and to establish a new bevel angle without tape on the spine. I also start to evaluate differences between a biodegradable packing peanut and two polystyrene packing peanuts.
Your videos are reassuring because I have been using the same method with my edges. It is nice to see someone with more experience with sharpening confirming that I am on the right track. Thank you for your videos.
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback.
Nice, those darn Jnats can be mesmerizing. I got goosebumps there at the end, very descriptive, I felt like I was right there with you 😂…. Great Video.
Thank you Eric. I planned to mention your excellent comments in your recent Part 1/Part 2 honing video but I have a mind like an open sieve. Absolutely perfect commentary on sharpening with Jnats. I really liked those videos.
I've noticed what you talk about here Greg.
A nice push cut will always be a better shaver for me. In the cooking world a sharper knife is one that can push cut, we slice cut because it's efficient to cut.
I've noticed that when I have a razor that isn't all that sharp or keen I will do my stroke down and a slightly forward to the tip and then it will cut. You can try this with arm hair. So I don't really slice cut when testing my edges for those reasons.
Great video Greg!
A slice cut is more efficient. This has been known, empirically, forever. Even when rocking a chef's knife on a cutting board to cut celery, the knife blade moves down and across the celery like a guillotine; where net result of the motion is a slice-cut. The "Gillette slide" takes advantage of the slice cut motion as well.
Obviously, with straight razor shaving slice-cutting is dangerous.
You make some good, detailed videos. Long, but enjoyable to watch. I like watching others hone razors. I learn, and see that others run into the same problems I do. I buy alot of ebay razors, you never know what the edge will be like until you get to the stones. I've got a few glass stones and a rockstar 1k, but I've always used Kuramaku's and super stones for razors for some reason. I finish on a 10k Super Stone, I'm looking for something that leaves a smoother edge. It can feel a little aggressive if you don't tone it down with a pasted strop.
Thank you for the kind words Cody. I only use the Glass Stones because I have a full progression of them. Most people prefer the feel of the Kuramaku stones and they are equally good at removing metal.
I agree that a 10K edge can feel rough, but you're in over-hone territory. Nonetheless, I often follow a stropped 12K edge with some passes on pasted nanocloth strops.
Thank you for these videos! I am really enjoying them and your dialogue. I would not mind the whole process shown on film. I know it would be long but it would certainly give a more realistic expectation of razor honing, especially for an eBay razor 👍🏻
Thank you! I appreciate that! Some of my friends tell me they use my long videos as sleeping aids 🙂so I try to be sensitive to video length for those interested in honing and sharpening.
Some of my other videos show all of the time on the stones, making a slurry, etc. I always need to break away to use the microscope or strop.
In this video, when I realized how much work I would need to do, I started editing in real time.
I totally get it 👍🏻 like you said honing the razor according to its needs!
Puma 89's are wonderful steel , I know you'll really enjoy the shave , as any type of edge works well with Puma steel 🎉 ....if theres no obvious edge damage ill use 3k to start the process, (I hate using diamond plate or 1k . But sadly its often needed with edge issues )
( I'll only use tape if its a mint spine ) I love your two handed techniques Greg , i do very much the same to give evenness .....I'm stil hunting, consistant packing peanuts, none about , I'll stick with sacrificing baby tomatos on the alter of edge testing 🍅.
I finished the video last night and shaved with the razor today. Wonderful shave! I've been aware of Pumas for a long time but your persistence in praising them created some urgency in me to get one. Now I need one with all the bling!
As for the use of tape. I'm not a person who passes judgement. If it contributes to one's joy of shaving, then it is the right choice.
so, do you want more of a vertical scratch pattern for mostly push cuts? as opposed to a pocket knife where a more diagonal scratch pattern is usually better for slice cuts? I notice you very rarely go across the stone...or the angle of how you are holding the razor still leaves a diagonal pattern...?
I have never found any studies or data that relate to the effect of the scratch pattern in cutting. As you mention, in the knife world, many _think_ that the diagonal scratch pattern towards the heel facilitates a slice-cut that starts at the heel and slices toward the toe.
My _guess_ would be that the keenness of the edge is the predominant factor in push-cutting, and that the type of scratch pattern would not be significant.
You're right that I hold the razor diagonal most of the time. This comes from being a knife sharpener who hone razors :)
Nice video i like to sharpen an old Ontario knife company old Hickory kitchen knife. I make the primary bevel, become the only bevel. Then you can put a twenty degree microbevel on it, Stupid sharp, it's the thinness knife I have I think I can get it Thinner Kitchen knives are the only knives. I'm ever gonna shave with. I like to sharpen the tip down. To preserve the thickness of the knife. But some Kitchen knives, you have to sharpen the whole profile. I really never do that. I can get by sharpening the tip portion of the knife.
Yes, thinning back into the primary bevel is called thinning behind the edge in the knife sharpening world. Some folks even re-grind the primary bevel as a scandi grind. Too much work for me normally, but I have done it. Your method turns that Old Hickory into a modern cutter and the micro-bevel adds durability to the edge. Kudos!
@greggallant5058 Yeah I try to do that, with as many kitchen knives as i can, cause it cuts so well
Try cutting off the exterior of the peanut first. There may be thick film of solid plastic on the surface. Have you looked at the peanuts under the microscope?
I have not looked at the peanuts under the microscope. The polystyrene peanut definitely has a skin, and I've found that the skin's resistance to push-cutting is consistent regardless of the peanut's orientation to the cut. With a little practice, it is quite easy to correlate sharpness with the force required to push-cut this skin.
Since polystyrene is a petroleum-based product, there's a move towards biodegradable peanuts which are plant-based. The texture of the biodegradable peanut is different and I need more time with it to determine how to use it for sharpness testing.
Thank you for these instructive videos. Do you have any thoughts on the shapton pro 30k?
I have not used the Shapton Pro 30K, but I did own the Shapton Glass 30K; a _very_ expensive stone. There are a number of people who swear by the Gokumyo 20K and the Shapton Pro 30K. With these stones, it is very easy to push the edge into over-honing territory. This is a point where the edge is so refined that the steel can't maintain that structure. You either see small chips under the microscope (well, my microscope), or the edge condition under shaving loads doesn't last long. Often, you will see people only take a small number of passes (like 10) on the stone to get around this problem. My opinion is if you want that level of refinement, you can do it just as well, and cheaper, with a soft denim strop (or nanocloth) loaded with 0.5 micron CBN paste or spray. ( 30K grit is has roughly 0.5 micron sized abrasives. )
Thank you, it seems to follow the law of diminishing returns. I would love to see a video of your razor collection.
Yes, its is literally a diminishing returns situation. My razor collection is a bit embarrassing. I keep buying them. At some point, I’ll do a video showing them but that will probably be after I do some shaving videos, so, don’t hold your breath :)
Very good. Your Ozuku seems finer than the stone you used previously. Is that the case?
I resurfaced the Ozuku. It was already a very hard stone, but the new layer seems amazingly dense and fine. My other stone is a Nakayama Maruka Shouhonyama. It is also extremely hard. I did not notice a difference in shave feel, nor did a see a difference in push-cut performance with the edge off of the Ozuku.
@@greggallant5058 Thank you for the answear. Thats interesting, well done. I don´t have a Ozuku my self, maybe one day. I´am falling for Narutaki stones since some time. Nice that your stone self slurries, despite it´s hardness. Sometimes it´s not that easy to tell what a stone is capable of. For the first impression of fineness I always polish a surface with one stone and than the other half with an other, than view it under artificiality light. A blade with soft and hard steel is ideal for it. Is there a specific reason why you don´t do a hanging hair tests?
I'm mostly done with the hair tricks. I've done a lot of sharpening for knife collectors who want beautifully polished mirror edges that can whittle hair. I find that testing to be cumbersome.
I'm aware that the HHT is a common sharpness test for razors but technique and type of hair vary; though I know people who purchase hair so they have testing consistency. For razors, I much prefer the ease of testing with the packing peanut.
@@greggallant5058 A sharp Knife can/ should whittle hair, yes. The mirror polishes you have done with non japanese stones? It is, looks weird, a half shaved arm lol. I dont do that either. Maybe just a little testing on the back of the hand for tools and knifes.
Shure you are. I was just wondering. Saw this peanut test years ago, maybe it was you, don´t remember. Lol purchasing hairs... Ok maybe when someone is bald and haven´t got a partner or so... I have got long hairs, so I try to use one hair at the time, than going back to the stone if the test isn´t that convincing. A thin hair of course is more difficult to cut.
_A sharp Knife can/ should whittle hair, yes._
Most of these knives are "tactical folders" and they use steels that are very difficult to sharpen. An edge that whittles hair is far too fragile for the hard use these knives are designed for. But the mirror polish looks cool, and it's a parlor trick to show that they whittle hair. I collect these too but have them for show.
I do the mirror polished edges with the Glass Stones, or with Venev diamond stones and with strops loaded with diamond pastes.
Greta Thunberg Packing Peanuts; manufactured from the best in starch byproducts of lovely Genetically Modified Organism generously glyphosated crops. I’ll use them when I am forced to.😎
I have also looked at the options available in disposable styrofoam coolers and foam cups. Foam cups will be a thing of the past soon. Dunkin Donuts finally ditched them. Bottom line for me is always to find something I like to rely on better than a hanging hair that also has low edge stress.
Nice work.
I would have loved to see if you could have pulled that rebellious section into submission with some mild abrasive (CrOx, FeOx) on a somewhat firm stropping surface.
Wish I had one of those 1000x scopes… $$$ 😉
_Bottom line for me is always to find something I like to rely on better than a hanging hair_
I stopped doing the hair tricks long ago. Too fiddly and time consuming for me.
_I would have loved to see if you could have pulled that rebellious section into submission with some mild abrasive (CrOx, FeOx) on a somewhat firm stropping surface._
Certainly possible but would have taken *forever* . The mean radius of the Glass Stone 2K abrasive is about 4 microns. The green bar CrOx mean radius is 0.25 microns. Volume removed is _roughly_ related to the cube of these values. So we're looking a volume removal relationship of 64 cubic microns for the 2K vs 0.016 cubic microns for the green bar. This is why the coarse abrasive is so much more efficient.
@@greggallant5058
I was kind of thinking metal manipulation over removal. You had the eyes-on, hands-on to make the call.
FWIW, I’ve been using the Herold products. I think green was published at 3-6 micron and red at 2-4. Even with the larger particle size I found cutting improvement and polishing on Suehiro 20k stonework. My typical medium is crowned balsa. The theory that abrasive charged stropping is not the same as honing lead me to experiment in those techniques.
Either way, you know the value I place on the peanut test. That shave piece will perform like a champ for any skilled shaver. And, I’d bet money on it.
I have a couple of loaded balsa strops. I think I showed one of them in the knife sharpening tutorial (which did not turn out as well as I hoped). When you load a strop with abrasive, the abrasive still does material removal. The main difference is the compliance of the strop material, and the dependence on trailing edge strokes. One of the reasons I bought the $$$ microscope (about 2 years ago) was so I could _see_ and analyze the effects of different sharpening procedures. It has been enlightening. Even though I’ve been at this a long time, I’ve learned a lot from this tool.