So far I’ve only used the old school converter and added the relay. Now I think I’ll order one of these new one’s add give them a try. Always look forward to your interesting new videos.
I bought the same type of converter made by pro chaser it also has a key switch wire and no memory wire. The problem is the key switch only has power when the cart is in forward or reverse. So everything goes off when switching the F&R switch under your legs. My idea was to buy a 4 prong key switch and use two prongs for the regular on off and the other two prongs for the reducer by running a constant hot wire straight from the battery pack to through the switch to the reducer. Thoughts?
To be honest all you measured was output. I would suggest using a clamp-over DC ammeter to verify there is no amp draw between the converter and the battery. That will measure true parasitic draw.
Agreed since the new one only eliminated the constant circuit in theory it should have less idle amp draw. However I would not use a clamp-on meter as a inline meter will provide more accurate numbers. If the idle draw is the same or only slightly less I would stay with the 5 wire since you get more features and options for power. On the other hand is the idle draw is a considerable amount less the 4 wire would be ideal if constant is never needed.
What happened to the Epoch videos? I was wondering what you had the controller set to during your range test with the 60ah kit? Couldn’t find the video anymore. Been having alarm codes with my kit
I currently am using the five wire and I have been for many years, I have noticed in the morning if I put my hand on my converter it's warm as if there is current flowing through it, so when I recharge my golf cart I take out the fuse that is becoming a pain in the rear so this 4 wire looks pretty good thanks to your test. I don't have the blue wire connected at all and it still runs warm if I get the new unit that you posted in your description can I just swap the converters or would I need to swap the harnesses as well? Thank you very much!
The converters blue wire will remain on while the cart is off and the battery is turned on. However if you turn the battery off then the converter will power down as well. If you dont want to turn the battery off you could add a relay inline between the converter and 48v input and control the coil with the key switch. I have multiple videos on that.
I'm not an expert but why is missing power relay on the new one isn't mentioned? I'd assume that is the main piece that is needed to "relay" power to the memory.
I’m currently reviewing various 48V-12V converters, As one I purchased last year, used less than a year mostly for headlights, but stopped putting out 12v. But I’m steering away from any of these blue case converters, Is there is absolutely no way to know what you may or may not be getting for your money. Seems like more Chinese junk that the market has millions that must be unloaded on unsuspecting consumers.
This review says it will still drain power, drawing on the batteries. This will drain your batteries and destroy your battery pack Reviewed in the United States on August 3, 2022 This draws 160 mA in "Off" state, which will drain a 48V pack to 'completely dead with plates in the air" within a few months of storage. Ask me how I know this. Should have read more reviews and questions/answers. Of course it's out of warranty, but a new battery pack is on the order of a thousand dollars, so even getting my money back wouldn't be useful at this point.
I’m currently reviewing various 48V-12V converters, As one I purchased last year, used less than a year mostly for headlights, but stopped putting out 12v. But I’m steering away from any of these blue case converters, Is there is absolutely no way to know what you may or may not be getting for your money. Seems like more Chinese junk that the market has millions that must be unloaded on unsuspecting consumers.
So far I’ve only used the old school converter and added the relay. Now I think I’ll order one of these new one’s add give them a try. Always look forward to your interesting new videos.
I bought the same type of converter made by pro chaser it also has a key switch wire and no memory wire. The problem is the key switch only has power when the cart is in forward or reverse. So everything goes off when switching the F&R switch under your legs. My idea was to buy a 4 prong key switch and use two prongs for the regular on off and the other two prongs for the reducer by running a constant hot wire straight from the battery pack to through the switch to the reducer. Thoughts?
To be honest all you measured was output. I would suggest using a clamp-over DC ammeter to verify there is no amp draw between the converter and the battery. That will measure true parasitic draw.
Agreed since the new one only eliminated the constant circuit in theory it should have less idle amp draw. However I would not use a clamp-on meter as a inline meter will provide more accurate numbers.
If the idle draw is the same or only slightly less I would stay with the 5 wire since you get more features and options for power. On the other hand is the idle draw is a considerable amount less the 4 wire would be ideal if constant is never needed.
What happened to the Epoch videos? I was wondering what you had the controller set to during your range test with the 60ah kit? Couldn’t find the video anymore. Been having alarm codes with my kit
I recently purchased the 5 wire application. Did you say that with the 5 wire I need to install a relay as well?
Do you prefer using a DC to DC converter or just running an additional 12v accessory battery?
keep doing a good job. love ur videos!! i appreciate you!
I currently am using the five wire and I have been for many years, I have noticed in the morning if I put my hand on my converter it's warm as if there is current flowing through it, so when I recharge my golf cart I take out the fuse that is becoming a pain in the rear so this 4 wire looks pretty good thanks to your test.
I don't have the blue wire connected at all and it still runs warm if I get the new unit that you posted in your description can I just swap the converters or would I need to swap the harnesses as well? Thank you very much!
Keep up the great work
Game changer, if you don't want to use relays. There should have been this option from the get go.
Good info sir. Keep at it.
HELP PLEASE! I have 3 Epoch 48v lifepo4 batteries and they are all dead. How do I go about bringing them back to life? Thanks in advance
If you turn off your big battery pack in the center how long does the converters blue wire hold memory? For like a radio to hold its stations?
The converters blue wire will remain on while the cart is off and the battery is turned on. However if you turn the battery off then the converter will power down as well. If you dont want to turn the battery off you could add a relay inline between the converter and 48v input and control the coil with the key switch. I have multiple videos on that.
I'm not an expert but why is missing power relay on the new one isn't mentioned? I'd assume that is the main piece that is needed to "relay" power to the memory.
The new one doesn’t have memory wire. So the converter doesn’t stay on like the old one did.
Navitas advises to remove and discard the precharge resistor, did you do this?
Yup
@@Fentertainmentcan you give more in-depth explanation on this part?
Could a person just unplug an existing 5 wire converter and just plug in the new 4 wire converter
So basically I don’t have to run a relay with the new one?
I’m currently reviewing various 48V-12V converters,
As one I purchased last year, used less than a year mostly for headlights, but stopped putting out 12v.
But I’m steering away from any of these blue case converters,
Is there is absolutely no way to know what you may or may not be getting for your money.
Seems like more Chinese junk that the market has millions that must be unloaded on unsuspecting consumers.
I need some help how can I get in contact to you
This review says it will still drain power, drawing on the batteries.
This will drain your batteries and destroy your battery pack
Reviewed in the United States on August 3, 2022
This draws 160 mA in "Off" state, which will drain a 48V pack to 'completely dead with plates in the air" within a few months of storage. Ask me how I know this. Should have read more reviews and questions/answers. Of course it's out of warranty, but a new battery pack is on the order of a thousand dollars, so even getting my money back wouldn't be useful at this point.
I’m currently reviewing various 48V-12V converters,
As one I purchased last year, used less than a year mostly for headlights, but stopped putting out 12v.
But I’m steering away from any of these blue case converters,
Is there is absolutely no way to know what you may or may not be getting for your money.
Seems like more Chinese junk that the market has millions that must be unloaded on unsuspecting consumers.