Discovering Cortébert: Swiss Watchmaking's Forgotten Gem - A Vintage Watch Restoration Saga!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- As a Cortébert enthusiast, I'm excited to share with you this fascinating vintage watch restoration project. Cortébert's rich history is truly captivating-credited with creating the first "digital display" watch in the 1920s and producing movements for the pioneering Rolex Panerai, among other milestones. Today, we embark on a journey to restore a 1950s Cortébert timepiece and uncover its enduring charm.
Upon arrival, this watch was in a state of disrepair, with a broken balance staff that led to some inevitable frustration. However, with determination and a touch of modern technology, we'll bring this classic back to life. Utilizing 3D printing, left-handed springs, and right-handed winders, we'll navigate the intricate world of watchmaking to revive this icon.
Throughout the restoration process, we'll delve into the intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail that Cortébert is known for. From the beautiful dial to the meticulously engineered movement, this vintage watch is a testament to the timeless elegance and innovation of Cortébert's legacy.
So come along as we embark on this thrilling vintage watch restoration adventure, celebrating Cortébert's storied past and experiencing the satisfaction of breathing new life into a classic timepiece.
#VintageWatch #WatchRestoration #WatchRepair #Cortébert #WatchHistory #RolexPanerai #1950sWatch #WatchEnthusiast #SavingTime #TimelessElegance #WatchCraftsmanship
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Abraham-Louis Juillard established his watchmaking store in the Swiss village of Cortébert in 1790, although the brand name was not officially registered until 1855 with the Bottony cross logo. Cortébert gained a reputation for its railroad watches, supplying timepieces to the Turkish, Italian, and several other European railway systems.
In 1927, Mussolini requested that Cortébert distribute watches under the Perseo brand name in Italy, as foreign brands were rejected by the government. The Italian railway system used Perseo watches, and the brand continued to be favored by the Italian public after World War II.
The Russian watch factory Molnija produced a number of calibers that were very similar to Cortébert's 16 Ligne Cal. 620. By 1944 Cortébert had developed 20 different calibers. However, in the early 1970s, the quartz revolution hit the watch industry hard, causing Cortébert to close down its operations.
In response, Cortébert's representatives in Italy purchased the Perseo brand name and continued as an independent company. Today, Perseo maintains its relationship with the Italian Railroad System, while Cortébert remains a piece of watchmaking history.
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Oil used
Light oil (escape wheel/third wheel/fourth wheel/balance pivots): Moebius 9010
Heavy oil (centre wheel/barrel arbor/barrel/motion work): Moebius HP 1300 or Moebius D5
Pallet oil: Moebius 941/2 and Moebius 9415 pallet grease (for fast beating watches over 19,800bph)
Mainspring: Moebius 8200 grease
Keyless work and upper crown wheel: Moebius 8301 grease
Cleaning agents
Elma - WF Pro Watch Cleaning
Elma Suprol Pro
00:00 Introduction
00:40 Getting the movement out of the case
03:29 Disassembling the backside of the watch movement
09:50 Disassembling the keyless and motion works
12:55 Cleaning the watch parts
15:26 Winding the mainspring, left handed spring right handed winders!
17:27 Reassembling and oiling the back of the main plate
24:21 Reassembling and oiling the dial side of the watch, keyless and motion works
28:35 Fixing the broken balance and oiling.
32:55 Completing the escapement, does it tick?
34:31 Finishing up. Timegrapher results and a look at the watch on wrist - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![[TH] VCT Masters Shanghai Playoffs DAY 3 // FNC vs FUT | EDG vs PRX](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pw2T5v0ogDI/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent. The 3 way camera gives a brilliant instructional facility to your video. Your commentary is light but informative. Leaving the errors in helps us beginners so much. The more you talk, the more we learn. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the kind words.
Thank you all for 1000 subs. I kept the split screen as everyone seemed to like it. I also improved my lighting a bit. Please do let me know what you think.
Tin foil hats? Please watch the documentary "Out of shadows". It follows a Hollywood stunt man through a terrible injury and incredible recovery.
Get back to me afterwards. We'll chat.
Your videos are phenomenal. They make the hobby seem incredibly approachable for beginners. Keep up the good work!
well this is awesome, I watched your Seiko metronome video weeks ago I always felt a bit bad about not leaving you a comment. I was in a rush at the time. You have a fantastic presenting voice btw, top job on that video. No idea that watch existed. Makes my day finally getting to say thanks for that video.
@@Saving-Time Glad to know you liked it! I threw that together as a quick thing, since I don't normally make watch content. Maybe I should get into it, haha.
lol go for it the more of us the better :)
Great video! I enjoyed every minute of it. The historical overview was very interesting! And please, talk, talk! You share a lot of good thing with us! Thanks for your great work!
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed the video very nice to hear.
Cortebert. I've had two. Very good work
Thanks 👍 I like them good watches
Love the 3 screen camera views. Nice and clear and great to watch. Thanks for making the videos.
My pleasure happy you enjoyed it.
Multiple angles/views really is valuable to the viewer. Well done. Getting to see the taper on the intermediate wheel during disassembly was brilliant. Also much respect and appreciation for leaving in your mistakes. Great job!
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and thanks for the feedback really does help.
Thank you so much for very clear video, I hope to make this my hobby soon with the help of likes of you. Keep up the great work. God bless.
Best of luck! Glad the video helped
Great video! I particularly liked the part about replacing the balance! I have to do that on a tiny IWC Cal 44 movement soon and am preparing by watching others! Thanks for sharing and the time that you put into this!
Glad it was helpful! Good luck with yours, pining down the balance cock really helped me on this one. Cheap bit of cork to the rescue. I have your Macro Photography video on my to watch list, really seems interesting. I look forward to watching your videos.
@@Saving-Time Thanks! Yes, pinning it down makes a lot of sense -- and cork is inexpensive! That said Bergeon probably makes a $2000 tool for that as well! 😂😂😂
Bergeon make an expensive everything lol I'm half convinced there is probably some $2000 Bergeon toilet paper around somewhere.
I enjoyed this video and definitely like the multiple views. You must spend a lot of time video editing! Looking forward to seeing your next project!
Thank you, and yes it takes a while to edit for sure. Glad you enjoyed it.
I think you have Ronnie Corbett in mind!! Great video, loved the details and perspective WRT where you are on the movement.
LOL thank you, I appreciate that from one hobbyist to another. Glad you enjoyed it.
Great video and well recorded Sir 👍🏻
Thank you kindly! I watched some of your reviews good stuff sir
Congratulations on the 1000 subs. I wanted to take a moment to express my appreciation for the exceptional work you have done in creating this restoration video. Your attention to detail and commitment to excellence are truly impressive. The craftsmanship is stunning, and I definitely am looking forward for more goodies from your channel.
Thank you very much! It was really nice of you to take the time to say so. Apriciate it. Welcome to the channel.
Ingenious workaround for the mainspring installation! Definitely on your way to Master Watchmaker! 😉
Bit of a way to go on that one! Glad you liked the video, the 3D printer came in clutch for the mainspring workaround.
Wonderful movement! I have two Tellus with same movement and I love them. Very precise and easy to winding. About 6 times every 24 hours. Well done! great job, appreciate!
Yup its a cool one not to expensive ether :)
I love this channel ❤
Thank you nice of you to say
Fantastic video! I am Cortebert collector and I am happy to see videos of top quality like this! 👍👍👍
Thank you very much! I have been a fan of Cortebert for years glad to know I am not the only one
I love these vintages pieces, well made and pleasant to wear...great feature your split screen, looks very nice, thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed the split screen takes a bit longer to edit but i think it's worth the time.
Great work once again. I really appreciate the commentary as much as the camera work. As someone just beginning the journey, it's reassuring to know that I'm not the only one providing cats with tiny novelty toys.
Glad you enjoyed it! I'm not the best watchmaker by any means, I am however a world champion at chucking parts on the floor lol Good luck on your journey nice to talk to a fellow parts chucker.
I enjoyed the video. I appreciate the "warts and all" approach. It makes you more relatable.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for letting me know.
Thank you for starting the channel. I really like the split screen view it does exactly what you hoped it would do and it also feels like an episode of 24!
Glad you enjoy it! Appreciate the feedback thank you!
Very nice filming format!
Thanks
Congrats on breaking 1000 subscribers...on your way to 100,000 I'm sure! The video was great, love the mistakes and the fact you leave them in and explain them. As for talking to much...I happen to hate videos where the person does not talk or talks very little. I enjoy knowing the thoughts going through the creators mind and what is going on, and I am certain I am not the only one who feels this way. So don't let one complainer make you change your style. Keep up the great work, we all look forward to the next video.
You are making me blush, really thank you I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Appreciate the feedback hopefully i don't disappoint in the next one.
Your videos are outstanding!!! Thank you!!!
Nice of you to let me know, thank you!
Outstanding narration and filmography! My dad’s Cortébert has a CAL 451. It’s a bumper style winding system. It’s had its share of problems due to my experimentation when I was 8 years of age. It’s survived 50 years stored at their home. It’s been professionally serviced, albeit there is no adjustment lever to sort the beat error. Also for some odd reason the balance wheel adjustment was placed all the way to retard. So in a mater of weeks running with +1 minute every week it stoped working unless placed sunny side up. The watchmaker’s says that the main spring is the culprit as it transfer too much power to the pallet fork. I had to replace the spring as I broke it by winding it too much at an early stage of my experiments. Omega is to blame in their glossy inserts in Reader’s Digest magazines that dad bought every Sunday, as they subjected their movements for the Constellation series to all kinds of tests in the Geneva Observatory. I “mimicked” these experiments on dad’s #8535 Cortébert Automatic, albeit, the main spring was sourced to match Dr. Ranfft’s specs for this movement, also known as an AS1250. So, if you happen to have stumbled with such an issue please help me to fill in!
Thanks Robert. Beat error can be solved by adjusting the hairspring collet. It's a dangerous job, as it's easy to ruin the hairspring or even break the collet, which I hate doing. There are a number of reasons why the movement could be losing or gaining time. It sounds like you are working through it, and I wish you the very best of luck with it. I am just learning myself so i' m hesitant to give to much advice in case i'm wrong.
@@Saving-Time Thanks for your complete reply! I enjoy your programs as well! And I am now in my next assignment -which is- to find the old watch importers for Cortébert and Universal in Costa Rica! To ascertain if they are still alive and if their heirs have any obsolete stock. It would be worth just to hear them talk! It's going to be fun!
Excellent camera work!!! Interesting to hear the stories abt the different brands!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for the feedback :)
EXCELENTE TRABALHO 👍👍 🇧🇷
Thank you sir!
Thanks for the video, especially the in depth and colorful history. I really enjoyed the video. Thanks again.
Glad you enjoyed it! I'm love the history of watches and will try and incorporate even more in the future. Thanks for the kind words
Great history lesson there !! Good work on the vid and you watch craft
Thank you i'm glad you liked it.
Happy to be a subscriber! I do like the split screen so I can see the overall as well as the close-up. Not sure if 3 screens are needed but once in a while for a different look it is fine.
Thanks for the sub! Glad you liked the video.
You are doing great, and I like the commentary. Keep it up and I think you will find your subscriber count going up.
Thanks mark glad you liked it. Appreciate you taking the time to comment - Cheers
Excellent video. Your skill set is improving brilliantly. You'll never forget to fit the canon pinion or centre wheel plate screws ever again.
If you like Cortebert watches, you'll also like Tellus watches as the companies are linked.
Keep up the good work and I look forward to your next watch restoration. 🙌
Thank you, I will certainly check out Tellus. Glad you are enjoying the content.
Love your video quality. Superb.
Just discovered your channel.
Subbed!
Welcome aboard! Thanks for the sub
You are doing it right! The camera angles work well, and the multiple screens are serving their intended purpose. I was slightly confused when you were talking about the digital display movement; I thought you were talking about the movement you were working on for a bit. I got it straight in short order but perhaps you could keep your narrative focused on the watch at hand to avoid sending dotty old folks like me down a rabbit hole of misunderstanding. All is good through, and I will be following you as you continue to post more repairs. Continue your protocols involving errors and troubleshooting. Maybe even not calling attention to the error until you discover a malfunction and trouble shoot it. Test us on our powers of observation and detective skills. Stay safe and enjoy life. Ed
Thank you I appreciate the your time in giving me some feedback very helpful and very nice of you. Cheers
Nice job.
Thanks!
Brilliant! Great work and I do enjoy watching your videos. . Would love to hear some opinions in certain microbrands
Great stuff, i really enjoy your content and i can see your subs get higher and higher but its exactly what you deserve.thanks again.
Thanks again I'm glad your enjoying the videos I hope to have more out soon at this rate you will go through my entire catalogue in 2 days :D
@@Saving-Timelol well it's not everyday you come across a show that you totally gel with and your shows one of them , glad to hear you've more in the pipeline, cheers.
Really nice of you to say think you!
Thank you for a superb video with the added history of a brand I had never even heard of. And yes: you might want to cut down on unnecessary talk.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for letting me know appreciate it.
I am loving your content. The angles are great for seeing where you are on the watch. I am also new to the hobby. Driven mainly by watching you tube and thinking “I could do that”. Seems I can. My only issue is finding some reliable contacts for parts. Keep up the great content. I love to watch people enjoying what they do. Keep enjoying it.
Awesome, thank you! You can do it I have no doubt. Parts are a pain www.esslinger.com/ in the usa www.cousinsuk.com/ in Europe, then eBay, and the like. A few fellow watchmakers on Instagram have helped me out in the past. Anything you see me working on, I normally have spares. You can always DM me on Instagram if you think I may have something you need. instagram.com/savingtime_yt/ Apart from all the normal tools, get some of this: www.cousinsuk.com/product/sticks?code=P20209 Very soft wood is excellent for cleaning pivots and your tools :) Good luck
Unbelievable how small some of those screws are! 😳😲
Even smaller when you are looking for them on the floor :)
nice video ++++
Thank you 👍
I really enjoy the format and the history. Perhaps a simple or already answered question: What brand of screwdriver are you using?
Glad you liked it. I use Bergeon screwdrivers, there are a few tools you can get away with saving money on. However good screwdrivers and tweezers will save you a lot of pain when you are first stating out.
The format is great, always good to see the whole part and where it sits. What equipment do you use whilst working on the movements ie for your eyes ?
Nothing to fancy I used a 4x loupe for a lot of the work. I also use a pair of +3 reading glasses. I don't need them for reading, but they are great for close-up work where you don't need too much magnification. A higher magnification loupe or, ideally, a microscope is good for oiling. If you're looking to get started working on your own stuff, you can get away with just a 4x loupe to start with.
Well, i also found my way into watchmaking, i did modern japanese watches first and wanted to go over to mechanical watches...that didn't work since i got an tremor after an shoulder operation... so i looked at pocket watches and found the romentoir 4 rubis for me. I mostly do the france watches with switzer clockwork...even then i have sooo much diversity...
I also love pocket watches, welcome to the channel.
Nice to have you here always like to see quality watch content
I have a Tissot pocket watch coming up at some point, hopefully that will be of interest
Nice, the worst part for me is always the whole Balance mechanism...and broken rubies...always the broken rubies...
I quite enjoy the running commentary, but for the people who say you talk too much, I would say, just slide the volume adjustment all the way down and watch in blessed silence while the rest of us listen to the story that comes with the watch and it's resurrection.
Thank you sir, and a faster reply to you this time around as well. I appreciate the kind words. I'm almost 100% sure my misses wishes i had a real life volume adjustment lol For everyone else, virtual me comes with a mute button at the bottom of every video ;)
Glad you enjoyed the video.
You did a damn good job. You are definitely improving. Oh, and those cool little teeth on the sliding pinion are called breguet teeth, invented by, you guessed it, Abraham Breguet.
I did not know that thank you. Much appreciate the kind words and the info!
Excellent technical commentary too! I liked the tinfoil hat comment too!
And admitting your mistakes shows you are human and wanting to grow as a watchmaker!
Thank you! Glad you liked it
After watching this video, I bought myself a Cortebert of a similar vintage, caliber 677. Subseconds, 15 jewels, rather nicely made. Also close to $100 purchase price. Hope to restore it. Excellent video but there is one erratum you made. Cortebert did not jumpstart the entirety of the Soviet Union's watch industry. What Cortebert did do, however, was sell the USSR the rights, technical drawings, and production equipment to made the caliber 616 (a very high-quality pocketwatch movement of the 1940s, also used in Rolex pocketwatches of the period). in the late 40s. Built at first as the Molnija ChK-6 and by the late 60s as the crudely finished but technically superior Molnija 3602.
Thank you very much for the correction. As always i much appreciated the information thank you!
@@Saving-Time No problem! I very much liked this teardown, seeing how different one of these Corteberts is relative to a Stellita or an ETA movement. That balance spring holding mechanism was something wild! Probably effective but strange. In terms of fit and finish, how would you rank Cortebert watches vs. their contemporaries. As good as Rolex or Omega? Better? Worse? Unlike Soviet watches, I really don't know as much about this storied marque as I should have.
I'd put them just below Omega; the movements were very nice, with less time spent on the finishing in general. I believe they were slightly cheaper when new, but not by that much. Personally, they are one of my favourite vintage Swiss brands.
Cool but if history to go with the repair. Keep up the good work mate.
Thanks, will do!
You said that someone said you talk too much. I don't think so, especially when what you are saying applies to what you are doing or applies to part of the history of the brand. I prefer seeing a video with narration rather than trying to follow writing on the screen while the work is being done at the same time. You're doing well. Keep up the good work. I hope to start taking up the hobby in the near future after I purchase a few tools and equipment.
You don't need as much as you might think to get started. i wish you the best of luck and thank you for the kind words. Glad you enjoyed it.
I have a Vostok GMT.
Being a Vostok it has a movement that is made in house of course.
I have several vintage Vostoks even serviced one here on the channel if you are interested.
@@Saving-Time I'll look for it thanks.
Very good. Thanks. Multi view very useful but 2 views probably enough.
Appreciate the feedback. Thank you.
Very good work on a very nice Cortebert watch. By the way, I don't think you talk to much.
I appreciate that! That makes me very happy to hear - Cheers David
Is it just me or was there an excess of oil on some parts of the movement?
I did this one quite some time ago, so I can't remember. It's not uncommon to find these things swamped in oil. If you're asking, did I use to much oil during the re-assembly? The answer to that is maybe... I hope you enjoyed it.
No when you were disassembling the movement I saw the excess oil. @@Saving-Time
I got a watch a few months back that was swimming in WD40. Your guess is as good as mine!
Indeed, you really talk too much.
Fair, you should meet me after I've had a pint lol. Thanks for the comment, I hope you enjoyed the video somewhat :)
another great video! glad to see the growth. if it helps any, I was nervous to crack open my first rolex. (6422 cal. 1210) to my surprise, it was a pleasure to service even for being a novice. Currently working on my 4th. I never thought the day would come. Can't wait to see you take a shot at it one day!
Thanks for the vote of confidence, I'll take a crack at it at some point i'm sure. Appreciate the kind words.