Before you use your DeWALT DWE7491RS, Watch This - Fence & Blade Alignment
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ธ.ค. 2020
- In this video, I cover aligning the blade, fence, and miter gauge. Some adjustments are built-in, some are hacks. #TheWoodHaven #DWE7491RS #DeWALT
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I just bought mine a few weeks ago and had to adjust everything, the fence to the miter slots, fence to the deck (tilting in), blade to the fence and fence height (not seated directly on deck).
A few things to note though:
1. The T25 screws on the back of my fence were not thread-locked. I was able to remove and tighten them back down without issue. Hopefully DeWalt learned from the issues everyone has and stopped using it.
2. When adjusting the fence to the miter slots, be sure to adjust all 3 fence positions. All of mine were off, one by at least an 1/8". I also recommend not unlocking the fence position when you loosen the bolt, otherwise you risk the other end of the fence moving as well.
3. If the fence is not sitting flat to the deck, there is a single T20 adjustment screw located on each end of the fence. It's recessed in a square hole right below the screw that holds flip assembly. This screw sits in a mitered slot and is tapped directly into the aluminum of the fence, so once loosened, the fence is able to slide up and down. However, to move freely, you also need to loosen the two T25 screws in the back. If yours are thread-locked, you should still be able to move it with a little 'persuasion'.
4. Even though I could remove the rear T25 screws, getting it square to the deck was not as easy as it sounds. Once the screws are loose, there's almost no play being the metal plate to shim, and the squareness varied at different parts of the deck. So before doing anything, lay a straightedge over the deck and find the most level spot to square it with.
Solution to removing the screws from the back of the fence without stripping them is a soldering iron. I have an older DW745 which uses hex screws and there is no external black metal plate, but same basic flawed design idea. After a bit of research, I found there are several types of chemical solvents for loosening thread locker, all of which destroy plastic. The most efficient solution, based on mechanic videos seemed to be to use blow torches to heat screws, which softens thread locker, but also destroys plastic. The solution I successfully tried is to use a soldering iron, rather than a blow torch to apply heat directly to the screws. The heat flows first thru the screw, then the thread locker, lastly the plastic, which allows the thread locker to soften enough to break its grip before the plastic suffers any damage from the heat. I bought a cheap soldering iron from Walmart for less than $6. Put the soldering iron tip directly on the side of the Hex screw, swapping sides of the hex about every 20-30 seconds to evenly distribute the heat. About once every minute I stopped to try and turn the screw. After about 2-3 minutes of heat they broke free. Once the screws are safely removed, you can go about shimming. Hope this helps others!
Thanks for the tip.
This is the first video I've found that really helps the average guy with just basic tools get his DWE7491RS squared up confidently.
I've been noticing my saw was off and didn't know how to fix it until I found this video! THANKS!!
That's great. I'm glad the video was able to help you out.
Just bought this saw. I appreciate the info on how to check and adjust the fence and blade.
Good video. I've had my 7491RS for over a year now and recently built a crosscut sled. I quickly noticed that - while the blade was *perfectly* square to the fence, both the blade AND fence were **VERY** far out of square from the table itself (and hence the miter slots). I assumed that since the blade was dead even with the fence that all was good - this is NOT always the case! Had to first adjust the blade-to-table, THEN the fence-to-table and (as a sanity check), checked the blad-to-fence after.
SUPER helpful, complete, and succinct. Thank you! I knew the fence on my new 7491 was out of whack and I thought I was looking at a PITA return to the store.
I just ran out in the workshop, followed your instructions, and in seconds all was well! Holy cow, I can't believe it was THAT far misaligned. Like almost a quarter of an inch.
Anyway, you are nine kinds of awesome. Thanks again.
Hey Shawn, I really appreciate it.
Is you top flat? I'm looking at getting one of the dwe7491rs but I've read so many reviews saying its garbage because the tops are so messed up.
@@sarahmiranda7130 My top is flat. I think the level of the floor it is sitting on has a lot to do with the top being flat or not.
Keep in mind that this is a jobsite saw. It is not a cabinet saw, that said, it is the best saw I have ever had. I have never had a cabinet grade saw.
Thank you. I've had the same saw for several years now, and it's definitely out of adjustment. I went to TH-cam to look for videos on adjusting this saw, and yours was the first one!
Thank you for taking the time to walk through this. Appreciate the direct approach. You have helped me out!!
Thanks for the tips ! Makes this much easier for a beginner - very much appreciated !
Hey Tony, I'm glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for the comment.
Great tips sir! Thanks a million! I have the same saw and love it but recently noticed the fence out a bit. Now I can easily fix it!
Good Luck
Thanks for this update. I followed your last video when I got this saw and it seemed square, then I noticed a couple cuts that were not square and happened across this video. Am going to go back and make this adjustment. Thanks!
I just bought this saw and watched both your videos on doing the alignments. I will be doing it this weekend. thanks
very welcome. good luck
Love the video. It's nice that you are trying to help others get the most out of their purchase.
Not everyone wants to be a perfect craftsman but would like to get it as accurate as they can and this video helps them do it.
Thanks A 9ball. I appreciate that.
Thanks for all the information. I bought a Dewalt D745 used from a guy on marketplace, and the fence is all catty wumpus. I didn't know you could tune the blade, so I'll have to check that as well. I noticed the issue the other day when I was ripping a piece of lumber, and it would get tight at the far end between the fence and the riving knife. Very glad I can fix this and move on- great content!
Another Great Video.
For those that are complaining that the fence isn't 100% adjustable...
There's a Reason Why that this is a Contractor's/jobsite saw.
They want a dialed in system..buy a Stationary, purpose built saw...for a few thousand dollars.
Thanks for this video. My fence way out of line. I needed this
AWESOME video - JUST got this saw and trying to follow the instruction manual is painful but your video made it easy to make the needed adjustments - really well done....THANKS!!! Larry
Thank you for the useful information, especially how to fix problems without expensive tools.
this is EXACTLY what i needed to see in order to complete my 7491 set up. thank you! i had both squareness to table and distance to blade issues with my fence. i sold my powermatic 3hp saw due to a move (man, i really miss that saw!) a couple years ago, but due to space constraints now, I'm only able to have a contractor saw. the 7491 is the best of the work'in man's contractor saws. the portability and stability of this saw is really great, however dewalt needs to make the fence more adjustable. one additional problem that i have found unsolvable is the flip-down fence for wider stock is too high to the table and creates inaccuracy. mine is a full 2mm high to the table in the full down position. no biggie there for me. i break down sheet goods with a makita track saw for cabinets and such, so most of what i use this saw for will be final dimensioning of the child panels for the sides and bottoms and shelves.
I know what you mean, but I think you will enjoy the 7491. It has been a great saw for me.
Turns out I’ve been attempting to align my blade to the fence incorrectly. This video was what I needed, when I needed it the most. Thanks!
Just purchased this table saw. Your videos are extremely helpful. Thank you.
Thanks John, I appreciate the comment.
Wow, thank you very much. This was very well explained and super helpful. I just bought this exact table and the blade and fence seem out of square. This is awesome!
I have a similar saw (7492) and the first one went back to Dewalt twice because of the fence not being 90 degrees to the table and they could not do it, so I sent it back. I finally bought another one a few months later which seems to be a little better but this is the only video I can find that explains how to fix it. Thank you very much, very good video
Thanks Steve, I'm glad it helped.
Great advice. I just got my new 7491 up and running. When I was cutting some 7ft Red Oak boards I noticed as I was pushing the board through flush at the front of the fence, it was 1/8" away from the fence on the rear. I went ahead and cut the board, and it was straight. 10 inches at both ends. So my fence is definitely off!
Yeah, these fences are the biggest issue with these saws. As nice as the gear mechanism is, you would think there would be a way to properly adjust the squareness to the table.
Great video. Very thorough. Thanks for taking the time to film and post this.
Mike, thanks for the comment. I'm glad you found it helpful.
Thank you very much! I've been looking for this much needed info for a few weeks now!
On the adjustment of the fence not being able to adjust it, I think I would use tape in layers to get my perfect 90, that way your not having to figure out how to keep your shimes in place
That's a good idea.
Quite comprehensive... and helpful. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful
Very detailed and easy to understand. Appreciate your efforts on putting together this 👏👏
Thank you mattsuresh
Very informative. Helped me so much to set mine up correctly! Thank you!
You bet DaAznPrince. Have fun with your saw.
You have been such a help with my dw745 liked and subscribed
I appreciate that Sandman. Glad you found it useful.
By far the best adjustment/ alignment video for DWE7491RS. Thanks much for putting this together.
Thanks Julius, I'm glad you found it helpful. If you have this saw, I hope you get many years of service from it.
@@TheWoodHaven Thanks. Yes I bought this saw 2 weeks back. I've noticed one thing and wanted your thoughts on that. When I switch it on, I see little sparking in the motor where the brushes touch the commutator bar. This light sparking continues while the saw is on. When I switch it off, the spark is quite bright. I had bought the same saw in Dec of last year, but returned it due to this sparking. However the second one that I got also does the exact same thing. That made me wonder if this is normal in brushed motors.
I've read a ton about it and most say its normal, including dewalt tech support. I've checked the brushes and they look good. I have a miter saw which is 2 years old. I noticed the sparking on that too, but only when the running saw is switched off; not during start up and not when its on. I suppose it wore in. Have you noticed this on your saw?
@@juliuspereira7067 Yeah, that's normal on any brushed motor. I wouldn't worry about it.
@@TheWoodHaven Thanks a ton!
great video, sure helped me sort out my fence and blade.
Thanks Edward, I'm glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for the video. I had gone by the first video and thought all was well. However, I am getting an enormous amount of sawdust kickback up and out towards me, which I can't seem to find a solution for. It is almost making this saw a no-go and a go-back on this new purchase. Many comments I read on wood working forums first suggested the fence was not square with the miter slot and probably the reason for the upspray of sawdust. It was off in the back, so I readjusted everything (had to use a washer shim each side to get the fence straight, and loosen that front allen wrench screw to get it square with the miter slot all the way. Now it's all without any clearance and square with the slot and square with the blade. After these adjustments the sawdust is better but still significant. I think the problem lies in where the port is located and the design of that black and silver tab in there just above it. The inner design is kind of like a water wheel design with that curved housing and it doesn't seem to blow or push the sawdust out good enough, so it builds up and once it gets to those tabs it really sprays it up. I've had the port get plugged up 3 times in making about 12 rips on 8' 2x4s. The Bosch bag didn't work well, either. It plugged up quick. There's gotta be a better way, or solution to this problem or I"m probably sending it back. I don't think I should have to take a shower outside before coming into the house after ripping a few 2x4's. Would be glad to hear if you or anyone else has any ideas. An expensive dust collection system is not in the budget. My shop vac doesn't fit the port, so I did order an adapter and will give that a try. Either way I need the sawdust out of my face. Do they make safety glasses with windshield wipers.....lol?
If you ordered an adapter off my original link, the product changed and they no longer have the right size. Make sure it is 1.75" to 2.5". My reply to your ealier comment has a new link. Sorry for your issues. Here is the new link: amzn.to/3BWzC3K
Thanks for posting this. Very helpful!
Thanks Chris, I'm glad it was helpful.
Excellent video. Thanks WoodHaven.
You bet OXENTCH. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the video!
Thank you! Mine is way off and couldn't figure it out. Knew it had to be simple
Many thanks. I was despairing trying to navigate the instruction book to assemble my new saw, but your videos are a great explanation on how to get set up and going in no time.
Thanks derekiwi, my pleasure.
But having now looked over all the “bits” I find they have made some design changes, although mine is the international version. Most noticeable is that there is no longer a lever to release the riving knife. In fact, there is no actual riving knife. There is a modified blade guard assembly but without the latch to remove the plastic guards. It seems the only way to have a knife only is to either flip the guards up (the will latch into a high out of the way position) or remove them (easily done, a couple of screws). I will try both options.
I was wondering what would happen with the B&D/Dewalt merger and whether the B&D influence would bring down the quality of Dewalt, and unfortunately it looks like the cost cutting has started.
@@derekiwi That's weird that they removed the riving knife option. I would think that is more used than the blade guard. Black and Decker actually bought DeWALT in 1960 and they positioned the 2 lines as the high end and low end. I'm wondering if they are starting to make them more similar. Something to keep an eye on.
Helpful video (as is the prior one on this table saw)!
Glad it was helpful!
a quick tip in setting the miter gauge to 90 degrees. loosen the knob, put it in the slot up side down, slide it in against the rail, tighten the knob.
no need for a square.
this works on anything with a miter slot.
Hey, that's a really good tip. Thanks.
@@TheWoodHaven : you’re welcome
it doesn’t work on my dewalt job site tablesaw because there’s too much junk in the way lol
A bunch of great info on your saw\my saw. No better feeling than having our Table Saws set up as perfectly as possible as we make our projects! Was wondering where those rear motor mount adjustments bolts on the rear were. I was able to achieve a 3\1000 front to rear blade tolerance. Thanks so much!! Cheers...
In Europe, it is a normal that table saws has to be adjusted so that the distance between the blade and the fence is slightly larger at the back. This is done to prevent an object from being pinched between the blade and the fence, in order to avoid kickback.
Interesting
I have learned over the past 50 years of woodworking to align EVERYTHING to the left miter slot. I use a dial gage to set the blade parallel to the LEFT miter slot and then set the fence parallel to the LEFT miter slot using the dial gage. This assures me that everything is perfect.
Carl, that is excellent advice. I've pinned the comment so everyone can see.
Why the left one specifically ?
@@kz.irudimen when you're using a miter guage, you're more like to use the left miter slot
This worked great ,thanks .
That's awesome. Glad it helped.
Send this video to Dewalt so they get constructive criticism.
Fantastic video, it was exactly what I needed.
Great tttenney, I'm glad it helped. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It's much appreciated since they don't explain much of anything about fine tuning your new saw in the manual. Plus I don't know about anyone else but, you pay top dollar for this table saw Dewalt could at least of made the manual with bigger print & used darker ink so you could read it without having to use glasses, magnifying glass, & a headlamp. or Maybe I am just getting old.
Hey Kellon, it wouldn't matter if you could read the instructions. They were very poor at best.
Thanks for the comment.
If your fence is truly out of plumb with to your table, you could also rip a slightly skewed sacrificial fence to make up the differnece and clamp/bolt that onto the aluminum fence.
This video is very helpful. Thank you
Thanks Larry, Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for the comment.
Extremely helpful thanks
You bet.
Thank you for this instruction 🤙
Hey Richard, you bet. I'm glad you found these videos helpful.
Great video. My blade is off like 3/16 from when I first set up the saw. Something must have moved in the last year. Was binding hard
Put a square across your blade and riving knife on both sides. If the riving knife isn't square to the blade wood will bind while pushing it through
Damm the was the Best guide I've ever seen for adjustments, Thank You, Thank You , Thank You!!! That was awsome-- you the man !! 👍👍👍
Really informative, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome thanks!
Great! Helped me!
Glad it helped!
Your video has captured my attention to correct my Newly Out of the Box DWE7491 to its square ! Can you please show how to make the Riving Knife and the Splitter in the same plane ( currently it’s a little off-set .. not in a plane 90• ) would appreciate it ! Thanks
I just got this saw a few days ago. I don’t have high end calipers or other tools for gauging its accuracy, but my speed square and a ruler which measures to 1/32” indicates it’s pretty darn good. The only thing that was significantly off was the fence measurement indicator on the 2 rulers. But it was an easy fix!
Yeah, mine needed very little adjustment as well. I've been impressed with this saw so far.
I just bought this saw also and am thinking of taking driving knife out and put it up against blade to start with. Then taking a square and fine tune it if need be.
sweeet video. thanks!!! love this table.
Thanks Rob. I'm really enjoying mine.
Excellent video 👍👍👍Really helpful….Thank you 🙏
Thank you...Yu
my dude i really liked your tips thank you
Thanks Saul, I appreciate it.
super helpful. thank you!
Thanks Blayne, glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment.
Another solution to the 90 degree fence problem could be to attach an auxiliary/sacrificial fence to the face (the side that faces the blade, of course), and if one can get that extra piece of lumber to stay flush with the table top (at the bottom), and put shims in at the back between it and the built in fence, one could get a true 90 degrees out of it. Then it is just a matter of figuring out how to attach that extra piece to the built in fence. I picked this saw up a couple of weeks ago and haven't unboxed it (my garage is my shop, and it isn't insulated, and it's been -30 recently, so I'm waiting for a bit warmer weather!) I think that the amount your fence is off won't bother me. The bottom of the piece I am cutting will be against the bottom of the fence, and if I was to cut something with a dado set, like a rabbet, I'd have a sacrificial piece in there anyway, because I don't want the metal fence up against the dado blade, so even if the material at the bottom of the rabbet is removed, the board will still be 90 degrees from the table surface to the sacrificial fence. Lastly, the majority of what I'll be running through the table saw will have been planed first (unless it is being cut on a jig, and then the fence doesn't matter anyway) so as long as the bottom of the fence is parallel to the blade, and the edge of the board is jointed (via jig, since I don't have a jointer, just the planer) then the bottom will be touching all along the fence anyway, and there is less risk of binding if the top of the fence is leaning away from the blade.
Yes, that is another good solution. I agree with you. My fence is off just barely and the fence leans away from the blade, but the bottom is parallel to the blade and is true otherwise. It still makes perfect cuts. I think you are going to love your new saw. Thanks for the comment.
@@TheWoodHaven Thanks - I know I will love it - my old saw didn't have a riving knife, nor a fence - I had made my own and used clamps, but it took so long to make any adjustments, and there was no dust collection, and the saw was underpowered, and the table was small - this is a tremendous step up (and I needed the portability, so this was the best choice IMO). I watched all four videos (except the miter gauge upgrade) and found them all to be helpful, so thanks for doing these!
I just bought one and didn’t have to adjust much at all. The only complaint was the flatness of the table. For a job site table saw I thought it was pretty good. However I also only paid $549.
Thanks! Very helpful
Great, I'm glad you found it useful.
Thank you so much for sharing.
You bet Noah.
I just bought this saw today upgrading from a horrible Bosch 1031! I love it already... this video is super inform-able! Throat plate needed slight adjustment and the blade can’t tilt to a 45 without hitting the throat plate... it’s those 2 bolts under the table where the saw dust port is right?
That's right. It will allow you to move the motor housing left or right to help allign your blade. Make sure it is still square with the fence after you make your adjustment.
Thanks for a helpful video. I just setup my new saw and your calibration techniques came in handy. One observation: You calibrated the fence we in the first right hand attachment position. After I calibrated that spot, I flipped the fence to the left side and found that out of true too. I used your same technique with the speed square on that side. I'm still looking for a good technique for the 2nd (outer) right fence attachment point. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to share your techniques.
To align the outer fence position you can use your "blade changing tools". They have two convenient holes the size of the fence attatchment screw and are designed to measure the correct distance between position 1 and 2.
@@TomTom20694 Great to know. Thanks.
If you want to adjust your fence to your blade, loosen the “Allen Bolts” that hold the guide. Located at the top and bottom where you loosen the lock holding your fence in place. Just make sure that the adjustments line up with your measuring guide, it will also change the measuring guide for the 32-1/2” extension.
Thanks for the great tip.
Any way to fix/adjust the fence when it is fully extended? Once i go beyond 20 inches or so the fench starts dropping down out of level with the table saw surface. Is this normal or is something loose?
I squared mine with the miter slots today then I watched your 1st video on this and thought I did it wrong 😆😂
No you did it right. Square everything with the slots, just in case the front of your base is out of square.
Mine happened to be square, so I didn't consider this as a possibility until a viewer called me out on it.
Thank you for taking your time to make video's. We appreciate it. When you were talking about the fence being just a tint amount off is ok for you ,my question is if you were trying to make say a picture frame or anything that needed perfect 45 degree miter cuts, how much would that effect the overall appearance and would you have to do anything else to hide imperfect miter cuts? Thanks again.
Hi Michael, I only use the fence for ripping so that's why I said that.
for something like a picture frame, I would use a jig or a miter guage that was much more finely tuned.
Thanks
Nice work
Thanks luis, I really appreciate it.
After seeing your video, I think need check my dealt DW745 table saw. What are these yellow and white marking tape represents.
The color that starts at 0 is when the fence is in the left slot. The other color is for when the fence is in the right slot.
This allows you to use the measuring guide no matter which slot you are in.
Helpful. Thanks
You bet.
Can using a digital angle finder help with this setup ?
Very helpful video even after a couple of years. Thank you. I just bought this saw. The top of my fence is leaning in toward the blade. I read all the comments here and haven't yet decided if I'll try the soldering iron trick or build something that fits around the fence. For now, it's okay.
However, I do have a question for you. I adjusted the riving knife and it has a bit of play that allows it to be pushed left and right about the thickness of the blade. It sits in the middle normally, but I can easily push it toward or away from the fence. Does yours have that same amount of play or is it rigid?
Mine tilts in too. I just bought my 7491 at the end of Jan '23, and the screws were not held in place with a thread locker. They came out quite easily and went back in just fine. However, despite being able to remove them, fixing the tilt was still a PITA. I just folded some small strips of paper to use a shim, but was very difficult getting them to slide in. I got the back square, but the front is still about 1/64th out and varies depending on where the fence is too, so the deck isn't even flat. So be sure to square it up on a part of the deck you know is flat.
Great video. Just purchased this saw and I have what I consider to be an excessive gap (a good 1/8" ... I can fit the end of a flathead under it) between the fence and the deck. Is there any way to adjust that so that is sits tight to the deck surface? My old saw had a clamp-on fence that sat tight to the deck surface. It's not a big deal, but I just tried to rip the outer edge of some clamshell molding and the thin edge that moves along the fence actually slips under the fence. I have a workaround, of course, but there shouldn't be such a gap, I don't think. I started to remove those screws on the side to see if it could be adjusted there, but it can't.
There is, kind of. If you look at the very ends of the fence, there's a single T20 screw in the middle that's bolted to the aluminum (so no change of being thread-locked to plastic). The hole the screw is in is slotted, so once loosened the fence would be able to slide up & down (to the extent of the slot). However, although the two T25 screws at the back are not directly attached to the fence, they do pinch the fence in place making it hard to adjust the fence height, so may need some "persuasion" to budge.
Coincidentally, on the one I bought a few weeks ago, the two T25 screws in the back were not thread-locked, so I was able to loosen them without issue and adjust the fence height with ease.
Hi, thank you for the tips! Curious, where did you get the attachment for the table to vacuum?
For my saw and shop vac, this works: amzn.to/2NbPQyU
Thanks
Great video, thank you
More than welcome Don.
The two screws in the back if you are looking toward the front-which screw moves the front of the blade and which moves the back of the blade?
Neither. You loosen them so you can move the front of the motor allowing you to line up the blade with the fence. You have to manually move it left or right. The screws only loosen or tighten.
Thanks!
You bet!
My blade was not square to the miter slots and fence! This video was exactly what I needed. Thank you! 🙏🏼
By the way, those 2 screws in the back for adjusting the squareness of the blade... they move the rear of the housing left to right. Is there any similar adjustment for the front of the housing left to right?
I had to slide the back of the housing (those 2 screws which you showed) to its max edge within the amount of play it would allow to get it as close to square as possible, but I still need like another 1/16”. I’m wondering if I can compensate the rest of the angle with the opposite side.
I'm not aware of any screws in the front that allow for adjustment left to right. Those 2 in the back should have allowed enough movement. The most important thing is to be square to the fence as this is where the majority of your cuts will be referenced against.
I suggest using a square to see if you are square to the table edge, then square the fence to the table edge, then at least your blade will be square to the fence. Man, I gotta say, I've never seen a blade that far out of square. You might want to take it in for maintenance under warranty. Make sure you register it first.
If you want to be trick with the jacking screws, first use black nylon. When you’ve set the correct amount of tilt, cut a slot head in the underside and cut off the upper side dead flush. Using the slit in the bottom side of the screw wind it up so you can cut a similar slot in the upper side. Wind the screw back down and you should now have a flush fittings slot headed jacking screw that you won’t shear because the slot is supported in the threaded hole. Looks like a factory fit if you ever want to sell the saw on. The same principle can be applied to the underside of the toothed track to reduce slop when the fence is at full extension. You can apply a couple in the section of track that never travels beyond the table. Makes the whole fence set up feel smooth and tight. Little things that are easy to do and just just up the quality feel of a great saw 👍
Can you describe this with a video? The WoodHaven?
Possibly, but my fence does not need this, so I'm not sure I want to be drilling into my blade.
Maybe I can explain/show it without modifying my fence. I'll have to think about that.
To square the fence to the table could you add a layer of painters tape to the top edge of the fence?
Shawn M777 that solution is so simple it's genius.
I think you solved the problem.
Does this compensate for the lower part of the fence being out by 16th to 32nd?? If this helps it, I'm square all around but the front bottom. It is minimal, I just want accurate cuts. TY for the info!!
Just bought this on sale at Lowe’s, and got a further 100.00 off for opening a card that I’ll never use…. anyway, had to calibrate everything, and of course the fence at 90 was kicked in the space of a piece of card stock. The alan screws behind the fence came out without any difficulty at all, so slid a nicely cut piece of card stock behind the screws and screws went back in nice and snug. Problem solved.
Have the same problem with the fence on my 7485. It leans towards the blade. Any suggestions how to fix it?? Cheers
I address this at 9:30 - There's no way to fix this that does not void the warranty and there is no adjustment possible.
Some have suggested in the comments to place painters tape along the bottom.
Great how to video thanks Daryl.
Thanks Kevin. This video has been quiet.
I just to see those Blade and fence adjustment , since out of the box found fence wasn’t 180 degree with the blade
Sorry to hear that. Good luck with your adjustments.
Your wood is making contact with the table and bottom edge of the fence anyway! No worries!
I think if you have a gap at the top of your fence because it's not 90 , I think the shim should go on the top not on the bottom, if you put the shim on the bottom it's gonna kick the bottom in towards the blade more and give you a bigger gap at the top. You can buy super thin feeler gauge shimstock from .001 thick. to whatever .
Just to double check: when you extend the fence all the way out, you are not able to slightly lift the fence upward or downward? There is no play at all, right? I am debating if I should exchange the saw or not. Btw I was able to adjust the thin fence, so it works as a support now. It was sagging before / not leveled with the surface of the table. There is this pivoting screw on the hinges, which is also working as a locking pin. Just loosen it and adjust to correct the issue. Thanks
luktish, when I extend mine out there is no play. It works great for me. I hope you don't have to send yours back. Good luck.
Edit: Also, thanks for the tip on the pivoting screw for the thin fence.
I saw in a reply you made to Christófano that if you were doing fine woodworking, you would choose a different saw. Which one?
I agree with your assessment but didn’t realize either my needs nor the design limitations when I bought it. As my need for improved cut accuracy has increased, I’m seeing where the fence design is limiting and needs compensation. As a job site saw, this is great and serves well for most jobs. I chose it because of space limitations and it’s served well.
Before I bought this DeWALT table saw, I did a ton of research which included watching a lot of respected TH-cam channels for information.
One of the better videos I found was by the Wood Whisperer - th-cam.com/video/QXMqve_dUtA/w-d-xo.html
If I were doing fine woodworking and could afford it, this is what I would get.
@@TheWoodHaven Thanks for the link - the video provided a great set of points to consider.
As far as the fence angle adjustment, , instead of adding a shim that has to be reset each time the fence is moved...how about drilling/tapping and putting a set screw into the base(metal part), so that when the fence is reinstalled, it sets on top of the set screw and is already adjusted to make the fence square.
Just a thought, haven't calibrated my saw yet to see what adjustments will be needed.
I checked it out. My saw came damn near perfect from DeWalt.
Good news. Mine did as well.
THANK YOU
You are quite welcome. I'm glad you found this video useful.
Just subbed. You saved me a lot of time and money. The fence was not square to blade out of the box and I almost forgot to check. It’s good now thanks to your video! Thanks again
@@canttReid That's awesome. I hope you enjoy the saw. It is the best one I have owned.
I've seen a lot about these issues discussed here; people having to shim things, sending back multiple times, exchanges, etc... It blows my mind that Dewalt would put something on the market with so many issues. It makes me second guess wanting to buy their table saws....
Hey Kaleb, It really is a very nice saw. I haven't had any issues with mine, but a lot of people have had issues with the fence not being square to the table. I have to agree with you there. It is amazing that they would put so much attention to detail in other areas of the saw but neglect this part of the fence. It wouldn't take much to build in a mechanism to make an adjustment. That said, it's still the best saw I have ever owned. Not sure what that says about me.
It's a contractors saw it's main purpose in life is to be dragged around work sites and to do this all day every day which is exactly what it succeeds in doing