How To Completely Align A Radial Arm Saw
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ธ.ค. 2024
- Welcome back to the Northland Workshop. In this revised video Iain shows how to tune up and align a DeWalt 1030 radial arm saw.
Delphi DeWalt radial arm saw group: forums.delphifo...
Having just moved my late father’s Dewalt MBF, I’m so grateful that I found your channel! I suspect that I’ll be watching many of your videos.
@@G.I.JeffsWorkbench glad I could help!
You know, you are putting radial arm saws on the map. So to speak. You have more radial arm saw videos than any person on the entire internet. I'm super happy to know that there's at least one other person out there in the world who understands how awesome they are. I'm not a professional wood worker, I'm an inventor. But I love radial arm saws. I have a strong feeling that they are going to make a huge resurgence in popularity, because there is no other tool that is quite as special as they are. They can do more things than any other woodworking tool, and many uses haven't even been invented yet.
Hubby here.
Thank you for a great lesson and demo. I was thinking of replacing my table saw with a radial arm saw. Thanks for helping me decide.
I have this exact same saw, picked it up for free from a fellow woodworker who was trying to find a home for it for a friend who’d passed. Appears to really have never been used. I’ve been watching and rewatching your video to get it dialed in right. Just bolted the new table on tonight and will start aligning it tomorrow. Thanks for such a thorough walk through.
Nice score! It’s a great saw.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop did you build out a mobile base for yours or just attach casters to the bottom of each leg? Mine had 1x material connecting all four legs together with some broken down casters. Trying to decide if I just replace those or redo the whole idea.
Excellent job young man. I’m a 53 year old carpenter and just bought my first radial arm saw. It’s 43 years old and never was used. The original blade with no use on it and the table never had a saw mark on it. Your video will help me out so much. Thanks for posting it for our viewing.
Tommy Kaulback glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
Wow, you lucked out. what kind of saw did you get?
Excellent video on setup. I have a circa 1960 10" DeWalt radial arm saw. Seeing you do the setup physically through TH-cam answered all my questions on set up. The original manual goes into setup and alignment. However, actually seeing it being done is a whole other story. I grew up with these saws and will always have one in my shop. The motor on mine purrs like a kitten and quality of construction is better than anything out there today. Thank You! and thumbs up!
Great job breaking everything down and explaining in detail. I learned a lot! Thanks!
Best video I have watched yet on tuning up a radial arm saw. I have a Dewalt 770 that was purchased for me as a birthday gift several years ago, but it has served as a tool storage shelf rather than something I use every day. I am recently medically retired from my career as a locomotive engineer, so my dream of establishing New Yankee Workshop - Pacific Northwest is underway.
Thanks for doing this video with narration. Some others seem to think that simply playing music while I watch is instructive. This is 180 degrees out from that.
Tom
Thomas Frederick thanks for watching! I’ve found a lot of videos now seem to be more about fancy editing and camera angles than educational content. New Yankee Workshop Pacific Northwest sounds interesting. I live 2 hours away from the original New Yankee Workshop.
I’ve been using them for years, there are so many uses. So under appreciated, I’ve had three given to me all running. Just people not knowing how to use them.
....and if both radial arm saws are down for maintenance then you need to get a third radial arm saw to make the pieces you need for the second one so then you can make the needed parts for the first. Excellent video.
That is exactly why I now have a third radial arm saw.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop I’ve got 2 I guess I need a 3rd one
What a fantastic video - definitely a must see for all RAS owners - especially new owners. I've gone through this on my own craftsman 9" almost 2yrs ago...well...I completely disassembled mine, cleaned, lubed, calibrated, and reassembled - for ripping cuts, I need a dial caliper to measure the error in width - can't tell how much error I've got with my tape measure or scale. It's darn near a Bridgeport. My biggest issue is I need to re-engineer my table and fence so I can more safely rip dadoes. Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
- Jens
Great video. In my area you can often buy an old craftsman for as little as $25. Most people want a mobil saw for construction work. I brought home one and its all out of square. Your video is great. Thank you.
Glad I could help.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop spent a few minutes squaring and cleaning and I cut some mdf like butter. (As it should) next I will do "ambrosia" maple - haha. Full of worm holes.
Thank you, you have done an excellent job of walking through the set up of this saw. I appreciate your attention to detail and-the the tips for the inexperienced with RAS’s. I own two Craftsman saws for about 40 years now and they are not of the same quality, but serve me well and stay accurate if not abused. Good job 👍
Great video with simple, clear instructions. Should be very helpful to those of us new to these saws, thank you for putting the work into this.
whitestang65 thanks for watching!
thank you for making or remaking this video.. it seems that you covered all angles of adjusting a radial arm saw. now i have to use you info. and correctly install a new table and adjust my saw correctly thanks
That was one of the best videos I have ever seen on You Tube!!! Awesome job!! I just got a free radial arm saw and now will be able to set it up correctly. I'm a retired tool and die maker so it will be perfect when complete.
Glad I could help.
Thank you for this setup demo. Extremely clear. I learned a lot. Also, I have a circa 70's Craftsman. I can clearly see where this Dewalt is a much better machine now.
Thanks! Just remember your Craftsman can still do everything my DeWalt can do, the Craftsman one might just need a little more persuasion to make it do what you want it to.
I just picked up a 925 Deluxe, and you made it perfectly clear how to set up the saw. Thx
Glad I could help.
Such a clear explanation and demonstration. Thank you for putting the time in to create the video. Very much appreciated.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I just replaced the top on my approx 40 year old Dewalt 740 two weeks ago using HDF instead of plywood. I knew about the leveling the top, figured out about paralleling the blade with the fence (when my rip cuts wandered off), checked the 90 degree angle w the fence but never considered the heel issue. I need to go back and start at the beginning. Your explanation was great. Just wish I’d seen it before replacing the top!
Edit: Just checked the heel and both are good.
Extremely informative. Expertly demonstrated. And well executed camera work. Bravo!
Thanks!
That's a damn nice explanation video for the correct set up of the radial arm saw. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video. Liked and subscribed.
Thanks!
THANK YOU THANK YOU!! Its people such as yourself that are keeping these great piece's of equipment. Your time and effort is greatly appreciated. These trades are being lost in today's youth. Im going to be overhauling my De Walt 2 gen raidial arm saw. With the help of your video, Im all set to go. Thank You!! Keep up the videos.
erkbzr thanks for watching! I’m glad you found it useful. I have more videos in the works and this saw is featured in them.
Such and informative Video. i've just picked up the Dewalt 1450 and its such a great tool however needed some TLC. Whilst i'd already completed the maintenance on the unit, going back to make everything square is necessary and this video really helped with that so thank you 😄👍
Great info and nicely done. I will add, only because you didn't mention it, that when doing the 90 degree arm detent adjustment that there are also two setscrews that lock the adjusting screws in position. I've got two Craigslist-found Dewalts - a GP Portable from around 1945 and a 925 from around 1959 or 1960. The older GP was missing the heel adjusting screws completely, so I had to do that adjustment. However, everything else with it was good. The 925 needed EVERYTHING adjusted. I got the GP back in October - was my 1st radial arm. I love these things. They're so versatile. Yes, they take more initial adjustment than a table saw, but once done I think they're incredibly useful and a blast to use. I educated myself on these saws by reading a lot, especially the Mr Sawdust book, and watching a lot of TH-cam videos. I'm 58 years old and never used one until I got that GP last year. I feel like I was missing out. I've even ripped with them ( gasp ! ) and hardly anyone was killed ... 8-) Regards -
spnynorman thanks for watching and those are a couple of nice saws you have. Do you mean the two set screws I talk about @32:00?
I’m an idiot - you DID mention those setscrews. I stand corrected. Cheers -
spnynorman don’t worry, you!re not the only one, I have received many emails about me not mentioning those setscrews. I’m not sure why but a lot of people don’t hear me call out those setscrews.
Excellent explanation and demonstration...Thanks very much. Just got a Dewalt 7730 and feel much better about set up. Great videos.
Excellent video! Very well explained. For anyone just getting a RAS for the first time, You must go through and make all the checks and or adjustments that he has shown in this video. If not, you will never be happy with the saw and decide that it is just not a quality machine.
When putting the bed down, to help align it with the blade, I use a 3' straight edge against the blade and align the back edge of the table with the 3' edge.
You will enjoy a RAS if it is setup correct!
Respectfully, Kevin
Kevin Coop thanks for watching!
The Northland Workshop Excellent videos need not say thanks. I enjoyed seeing a quality one though.
Thanks, luckily tomorrow is Saturday so I know what I am doing tomorrow. Servicing my saw and doing the setup you just showed.
Good stuff I bought one of these, and have spent about 6hrs elbow grease and half a pint of WD40. It really improved, added on some electrical contact cleaner to the electric parts and lithium grease on the runners. These things are just solid and so nice to use.
Thank You very much.
I find the tip on making sure that the fence is parallel with the blade in the rip position as the first requirement particularly useful. There are many adjustments and checking for the RAS, this has to be the best clue. This has to do with the basic position of the table with reference to the base of the saw.
Perhaps this is because I already know enough about the RAS to know that there are many adjustments. Which to start first is a question. That the table has to be co-planer with the swing of the arm at various positions, and that the fence must be parallel with the blade in the rip position have to be the first two of many to take care of. After you have done these two steps, the table setting is done. The other adjustments/checking are with the saw itself. This makes the adjustments for the RAS clearer.
I would add this: 1. Remove a few of the boards and level the frame first. 2. On the larger saw aligning the large cylinder/pipe that raises and lowers the upper arms and motorhead is different. That saw can be seen now and then in the background in this video. That one has a long thin metal piece called a "gib" that slides down and fits between the frame and the cylinder/pipe. The are two or three (I haven't look at it for a while) Allen screws that press against the gib shifting the plane of travel from top to bottom. Imagine a pencil with the eraser on a table and the point aiming straight up. Tighten or loosen the Allen screws and you change the aiming point of the pencil. This in turn shifts the cylinder/pipe from right to left / top to bottom which chagnes the angle of the overarm and motorhead as as you crank it up or down. You want the motorhead/blade to travel up and down 90° degrees to the table frame and cutting boards surface. If it does not you will never get accurate cuts. You may not notice it until you do miters, especially compound miters. My saw was new when I found that problem. Why didn't I send it back? Because it weighs 705 pounds. I remedied it by replacing the factory gib with a somewhat longer and thicker piece is steel. (Ex. .250 x .150 x 8.50 inches instead of .200 x .100 x 7.50 inches. My example is representative and not the actual dimensions but you get the idea.) I bent the top over in a vise to create about a 1/4 inch hook to prevent the new gib from falling through the opening between the cylinder/pipe and the cast steel frame onto the floor. The problem was the original gib was not wide enough along its' length. The Allen screws missed the gib by about one half of the diameter of the screw shafts. In order words, it never locked the gib firmly into any final position. How did I find the problem? By performing the standard board cutting alignment test that should be first (and finally) used on any fixed or movable power saw. Here's what you do: cross cut a piece of one inch stock about 1 foot long x 4 inches wide. Hold the left piece against the fence. Flip over front to back the right piece and push the edge you just cut against the left piece. Look carefully at the cut on the top and side of your work. Next flip the right piece as it originally was and hold it against the fence. Now flip the left piece front to back, hold it against the fence, and push it against the right piece. Again inspect the line of the cut top and side. If both sides of the cut match with both tests without a gap you have spot on alignment. If not, your cutterhead is slightly off aiming north/south, east/west, or both. This check should be done every time you change a blade or move the location of the saw, and even periodically for no reason at all other than machinery vibrates and parts of it can and now and then do shift off center. 3. AFTER you have the up down travel of the overarm aligned, now go ahead and align the table top as shown in the video. If the arm is not properly aligned you cannot properly align the boards that form the table top. This will become apparent as you shift the arm 45° in both directions across the table top (for miters). Cross cut another board and check your work again. 4. On the larger saw, 14, 16, or 18 inch, the electric motor and yoke (the cutter head) gets removed the same way as shown in this video but it weighs about 200 pounds. Crank it down to set it on or sllightly above the table before you slide it out of the upper arm. 5. NEVER mount any radial saw on a moveable stand or carriage. First of all they are top heavy. The base a radial saw sits on is stamped steel that does not weigh much. The structural working parts of good radial saws are cast steel. Secondly, they are made for stationary use and the last thing you want is any carriage or stand rolling around on you during the middle of your cut. Don't trust a "locking" base. The 18 inch model can be 3 phase and 7.5 hp. They are finely balanced but that is a lot of force that sets up subtle vibrational harmonics in your saw. Finally, this video and another one about how to use a radial saw by the same author are very good. If you haven't used your saw in a while you should take the time to watch them again BEFORE you touch your saw.
I calibrate mine a tad differently. I don’t do the arbor down trick to tram the table to the arm. Rather, I put the entire saw stand on leveling feet. Make sure there is zero play in the column and arm at the 90 degree position, and then I level the entire saw measuring the underside of the arm. Laterally across the ways and along the length of the arm. Checking with the carriage parked and at full extension. This establishes that the underside of the arm is running dead parallel to level and as a result the column is dead plumb, and so the carriage and motor are moving in a level plane. Then I do the other calibrations of the yoke and such to get the blade in parallel plane to the run of the arm, and perpendicular to level.
With the Radial Arm ways dead level, then all I have to do for the table is use an ordinary level to make sure the table is dead level, too. My table is bolted directly to the frame of the stand, and I use mechanics shims between the top and the frame to get the table top dead level. ( I literally stack the shims over each bolt location and measure with a long level across the shims to determine how many shims to slip under the table at each bolt. ) This way I know the table is parallel to the underside of the arm, and that means the bottom of the blade moves parallel to the table for consistent depth in dados and such.
To really fine tune the fence and table as parallel to the blade in rip cutting… I get it close as shown in this video. But then I rip some wood and see if the blade burns on either side of the cut. If I get burn marks, I slip some very thin mechanics shims between the fence and the front table at either the far left edge of the table or the far right edge… and then clamp the fence and try another cut. I keep nuancing it until I can rip wood against the fence without a burn on either side of the cut. I can then use the thickness of shim to mark the frame of the saw and re-set the back edge of the table to the shim line and discard the shim. This is the only thing I have found that really accurately aligns the fence to the blade to prevent burning, and significantly reduce the chance of kickback.
Those old "Junk" radial arm saws are going to be worth a fortune in a few more years, once more people see your videos and realize that you can actually do a safe rip cut with perfect accuracy. Apparently nobody knows that you can actually do a rip cut. I had someone say in a video that doing a rip cut on a radial arm saw is like a "square peg in a round hole situation." The public's fear of ripping on a RAS is bizarre to say the least. I think a rumor got started a long time ago about radial arm saws being "unsafe for ripping" and that rumor never went away. I've been mesmerized studying the social, emotional rumors surrounding radial arm saws, which is one of the most interesting rabbit holes of research a person can do on the internet.
Great job! I have a DeWalt MBF (actually 2. 1 is from 1956 and 1 is from 1958). I haven't made my adjustments yet, but at least I know how to!
Thank you so much for an awesome video. I recently purchased the exact saw and want to go through the steps like you've shown. Very helpful.
Thanks!
Nice video Iain. The details are helpful.
I’m glad I could help.
I'm hoping you still check the comments on the alignment of DeWalt radial saw (mine is a 47-year-old 5800). I followed your instructions and found my saw required adjustment on all settings. I was slow and methodical to ensure was done accurately and everything went well until the last 2 checks for the heel of blade adjustments. Two of the set screws were broken, not from my using too much force to loosen them, but rather they were already broken and just barely remaining in the tapped hole. I believe that they were broken, or broke over time with the stresses placed upon them. I suspect that this is the main cause of all broken set screws. Having removed and replaced the set screws with ones I fabricated and at the outset, I discovered that the two 'horizontal set screws were at their limit of adjustment. In order to get the blade heel to follow correctly, the new set screws also needed to be adjusted to their limit of travel. Looking at the 3 set screws, the top right is fully in while the top left is fully out. Something else is not as I think it should be, and despite my mechanical background, I cannot find anything else out-of adjustment. Do you have any idea what might be causing this condition? BTW a great video!
Sounds like the pivot pin that the three setscrews work against might be bent.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop I had checked that and it is not bent - It runs true.
Well done, Iain! Towards the end I thought, "Now if we could only get the correct blade on his 1030RA." Then, voila!, there it was.
Airborne Ranger thanks! I wanted to do all the set up with the old blade so that I didn’t chip the new one. Also did you see the anti kick back pawls?
Amazingly helpful video!! I have a unique problem I can't solve. I still have play with the arm. The arm is moving on the column. The column is not moving withing the base. The arm clamp handle is vertical when tightened (per my DeWalt 1200 manual, you mentioned it should be tightened in the 10:00 position which I have also tried). At the moment, I am following my manual (my saw, DeWalt 1200, looks almost exactly like your 1030 model as your entire video replicates the same adjustments for my saw) so the arm clamp tightens at 12:00 and loosens at 2:00. The column goes up and down freely as you mentioned. Per my manual the set screws on my saw are tightened to make sure the vertical brass plate in the column is not moving. When I move the arm (the arm clamp is locked, the 90 degrees detent is down and locked as well) the arm is moving on the column. The column is not moving within the base. I do not have any vertical play with the arm. I am not sure what to do. The manual does not have anything to say about this matter. My saw was a one owner saw and was in great shape when I got it. If you have any suggestions I would really appreciate it.
I’d take the arm off the column and check the machined surfaces one the part of the arm that clamps around the column and the machined surface of the column for wear.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop thanks! I'll check that forum in your video description to see if I can learn how to take the arm off
It's always good to have a backup radial arm saw to make parts for radial arm saw!
Excellent job. You explained a lot of the areas that most other youtubers just jumped right past the details on. I have a 1959 AMF Dewalt 925 that was my Grandfather's. I love the way these things were built. Don't make them like that anymore.
I think on the final crank up of the column, instead of just trying to wipe off the WD-40 that I'd spray the column with some Brakleen or other brake parts cleaner as it will dissolve the WD-40 and dry almost as fast as you can wipe it. My RAS was very dirty when I brought it home and the WD-40 and Brakleen made short work of cleaning all the years of gunky buildup off of it. I feel fortunate to have been able to get a DeWalt MB model as all the adjustments will be in the same places as what I'm watching in this video. I have a large piece of thick laminate mdf I can use on the base that used to be the top of an office desk that was never used. I used to work for Kimball Office Casegoods and bought the desktop there at an employee auction where we could bid on items that for one reason or another they wouldn't sell to the public (Usually a bad drawer or a chip somewhere in the piece). While I don't have a 2nd RAS to rip the mdf, I do have a Rockwell 9" contractor saw that should be able to accomplish the same thing.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in such a helpful and useful way! This has been a huge help to me.
Glad I could help!
Great video! The only thing I detected that was not discussed is the condition of the motor bearings. In my experience, it's only a problem if the saw is noisy when loaded. The static alignment settings might deviate from expectation and cause confusion to want to not trust the saw's alignment. Good job.
Definitely the go to guy on radial arm saws
Thanks!
Great job explaining the setup. Love that style of the Dewalts.
Thanks, those round arm DeWalts are my favorite style too.
Great video Sir! Thank you for putting this out there.
I picked up a Dewalt 7790 12" contractor Radial Arm Saw. I haven't tried to align anything nor will I use this saw until I do. I am just learning as a winter project. I have a lot of work to do on this saw. Immediately, I noticed the arm can move a little while the detent (sp) is in place. It appears the movement is because there are no washers on the detent bolt. The moment is between the bolt and the detent. The wedge appears to lock down pretty well. It could be worn down, I'm not sure yet. I believe all I need to do is fill the gap on each side of the "wedge" part and that would keep the arm from moving providing the detent bolt hasn't hollowed out the detent wedge piece. The arm lock is also out of adjustment. So this will be the first area to "fix".
I don't have a users manual, so I'm beyond raw on this tool. I have used plenty of "saws" of all kinds, but ths is my first RAS. Can you talk more about the controls to pivot the blade for ripping? And, how to clean up those controls. I don't even know the names of the parts I want to ask questions about!
I really appreciate your videos .
Vertical toe-in or toe-out can be checked easily after the "fence to arm" perpendicular check has been done. Just raise one side of the framing square to attempt to hug the blade with the other side hugging the fence.
But the "fence to arm" perpendicular check and adjustment has to be made first. That is, using the framing square with one side hugging the fence and one tooth check with the other side of the framing square while the saw is pulled along the arm.
I'm reconditioning a De Walt 1030 RA like yours that I just picked up. Nice video. Resisted the call of Mr Sawdust I see. ha ha
Thanks! You mean the table? The Mr. Sawdust table is really made for the smaller DeWalts that only have two table support bars. The 1030RA has 3 support bars so the span that the table is unsupported between them is pretty small. If those support bars can’t keep the table flat nothing will.
Having owned and used a Radial Arm Saw for 40 years, I am a keen advocate. However, squaring the arm to the fence is an almost impossible task using the nut and screw adjustment, the tiniest tightening error is hugely magnified by the arm. I have given up with that approach, and now fix the arm and square the fence to the arm. I no longer use the standard fence arrangement and this does give rise to other compromises, which are all relatively easily overcome. A square cut is my holy grail. RAS's are prone to losing their settings. Even if like me I never unlock the arm. By squaring the fence to the arm I can re-square frustration free in minutes.
I’ll be honest, I’ve never had an issue squaring any of the three RAS I have. What make and model is yours?
Crystal clear tutorial....thankyou
Being concerned with any corrosion, I would remove the front plate that retains the carriage. Apply a good quality masking tape over the painted area at the end of the arm. Using a small brush apply some Evapo-Rust to the rusty areas. You may need to do this a few times. Same doe the retaining plate. After removing the tape a light coat of Johnson’s paste wax on the paint and the treated bare metal. See you in the next installment.
I loosened those two nuts under the AMF cap to tilt the blade a bit and couldn't get it to move to save my soul. The regular instruction manual doesn't say this, but the manual labelled "Instructions, Maintenance and Parts" for the MB and GW models says on some models it may be necessary to also loosen the big center nut (Y23). Once I did that she turned easy as pie! Got the blade square...which let me discover my table is out of square, so tomorrow I'll adjust it.
Great stuff! Did the video abruptly end? At 13:30 you say you'll be adjusting the rip scales, but I didn't see that part.
Do the Craftsman RAS have adjustable miter detent? My 12" Craftsman has two 1/2" bolts inside and near the top of the column. When I remove the top cap to the column that has the degree indication, I see these bolts. Would loosening these bolts and retightening adjust the miter detent?
"ah yes, let me just pull out my BACK UP RADIAL ARM SAW to prepare the plywood for my current radial arm saw
Brilliant video what would you say best all round blade wood be is that a 32 tooth construction blade the blade ive got is to fine at 60.
Mark Clancy I have a Freud LU82M010 on this saw and I really like it. It’s Freud’s version of the Forrest Woodworker I blade which was designed to be a general purpose RAS blade. So far it has done everything I’ve asked of it at a fraction of the cost of a Forrest.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop funny that just ordered freud blade a 40t n 24t twin pack.i will have a go with it when they come.
Hi
Where do I find the link to the forms in the “descriptions below”, so I can contact
Dewaldt folk regarding my DWaldt 110.
Regards
Patrick
I have the model 7770 Electrostop 10 inch with 2¼ hp motor. I think it dates back to ±1975. The front switch has packed up, can I find replacement for it?
Hi I've adjusted the crosscut to 90 with the table. However, the rip is not 90. If I align the rip to 90. The crosscut is then out. Any suggestions please. I have two radial arms. Both the same problem. I've leveled the table. But, still the same problem. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.
I finally made my table and I am leveling. Should the 2 bolts that hold the rails to the table in the back be fixed and rigid during the leveling process. These are the bolts with the allen screws on top. I have them fixed currently and it seems these are creating conflict in that the rail in the back is much lower than the front as I adjust it. I hope this makes sense. Thanks for the help
My Craftsman 12" has four allen screws at the front of the yoke while nothing at the other end of the yoke is adjustable.
Likely both toe-in out vertical, and horizontal, as well as bevel angle zero are all adjusted by using these four bolts all at the front side of the yoke.
The push stick you use is great. Haven’t seen that style before.
I am trying to get almost the same setup with a DeWalt and a Delta. I'm finding it almost impossible to align both saws to both tables and one fence. Is that why you kept yours separate? Or do you have any tips on how to level and align multiple saws in one unified bench??
I love your videos.
Excellent informative video...thanks
Thanks for watching!
LOL what do you know about a bridgeport mill? And I have a dial indicator or 2 never thought of using on i just went with sears booklet instructions, i might have to revisit that.
Do the long bolts with lock washers receive the nut and lock washer under the rail? These log bolts are centered through the table over the holes in the frame to allow for clearance in tightening the bolts. When do you tighten these nuts? I assume after all the short bolts are used to adjust and level the table? Are these short bolts and nuts used to leverage the rail either closer or further from the frame to change the finish height.
Thanks
The long bolts are used for leveling and the short bolts are only there to hold the table to the rails. The nuts on the long bolts are adjusted up and down on the frame to level the table.
Hello thank you for your video. A must to see.
However, I'm stuck. After I set the blade to 90 degrees for cross cutting I move the saw to the rip position, I find it is not 90 degrees. And if I set the rip to 90, the crosscut blade is not 90. Any suggestions please.
It sounds like something is in the saw carriage is loose. I’d check the detent and the pivot point to make sure they don’t have any movement in them.
Thank You. Nothing loose. Could it be my table?
Wait. Maybe I don't know how to check it properly. And what is a detent? Thank You. Hope you keep the radial content going.
Are those sliding wheels get replace?
When I lose it to slide it the blade have a play and when I tighten it lose the 90* angle and I think the wheels are worn
Are those bearings a roller or ball type or are they more of a babbitt type bearing? If they're ball or roller type I might try removing them to clean them out with lacquer thinner which will dissolve the old hard grease and then re-pack the bearings with new grease, in much the same way folks used to pack wheel bearings on old cars back in the day. Two of the table bolts on mine, the heads are stripped out which is going to necessitate cutting out some of the original table so I can get a pair of vise-grips on them to back them out (My base only has 8 bolts as it sits on a DeWalt cabinet instead of a DeWalt table). Hope I can find replacement Philips head bolts like it has.
@@Rebel9668 they are ball bearings.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop I learned the grease dissolving trick with lacquer thinner years ago, trying to unstick an old record changer turntable that was caked with it.
Great video. I have an MBF that does not have the cotter pin. What size is the one on your saw?
20:31
Like you just did on your first cut.
Never reach inside the blade and fence, use a push block even on wide cuts.
I'll tell you why
When i got my new craftsman i did a rip cut feeding the wrong way
The blade took a bite into my stock
And the over arm turned about 30dgr i pooped my pants the only thing the stopped it the blade bent and stopped spinning i shut the saw off had my arm been between the fence and saw blade it would have taken my arm off.
I changed my shorts bought a new blade and started paying attention
To feed directions closer.
I also invested in board buddies for a radial arm saw. Then hold your work to the fence and down on the table make the top of the fence wider then the slot i just used a door jam the striker part is 2" wile the stop is 1.5" the base on the board buddies is 2" i only use that fence to rip with, and its great for narrow cuts not sure about thin rips. I also made a separate one to use a shaper cutter.
MR sawdust has a jig for doing perfect 45dgr cuts the fit perfectly
His son posted the jig on youtube.
When i bought my saw there was nothing on youtube about the RAS
its extremely good people keep adding content. Thank you.
They got a bad rep for no good reason. Yes people got hurt on them there are rules you need to fallow never take a tool for granted.
Stop running your arms and hands past the blade.
Stay safe. Use push blocks and feather boards hell run a screw into the table to hold the feather board in place if you have to.
You can sand the hole smooth and fill it with sawdust and glue your going to cut into it anyway.
Very very well explained.
Thanks!
Thank you very well done video INFO 💪💪💪💪💪♥
Great video, my detent pin on the front of the motor is stuck. I purchesed a 930 that has not been used for who knows how long. The motor bearly tracks on the arm and the pin is stuck. I dont want to use a torch and have used lots of WD40. Any ideas??
You could try taking the carriage bearings off and putting them in a toaster oven set on 300 for a couple hours and see if that loosens them up. Otherwise I think the torch is your best bet.
I see you using a lot of WD-40. I'd head that it can have a tendency to dry joints out over time and it's better to use machine oil over WD-40. Is this correct? I'd appreciate your thoughts.
I haven’t had any negative effects from using WD-40 but I wipe off as much as I can so there really isn’t much left on there.
Good informative video man
When I do a vintage tool I do a total field strip, cleaning, and painting
Next time, and especially before replacing those very expensive carriage bearings (they would have been $125+ per pair bearing on my DeWalt GE, and that needs 4 pair!), remove and soak them in your favorite degreaser or kerosene or gasoline, give them a few spins from time to time and let sit over night. I've found that much of the gunk is actually just 40-50 year old degraded/hardened grease. Give them a shake in a jar of mineral spirits to rinse them off the following day. If the bearings move completely free, move on and repack with grease. If not, put them in a glass jar (glass works best, not plastic) filled with degreaser or kerosene or gasoline, and run them through a hot water 10 minute cycle in an ultrasonic cleaner (add boiling water to your ultrasonic cleaner unless it has a heating cycle). This should remove all remaining degraded grease and the junk that may have found its way under the races. Either replace the bearings if they are still hung up, or use mineral spirits to rinse them off and move on to repacking with grease. With the races still on, submerge the bearings in a tub of red and tacky grease and put the container in a vacuum chamber. (There are many DIY videos on very inexpensive ways to make one from $20 Harbor Freight air pumps, fish tank air line, and your shop compressor.) The vacuum created will replace the air pockets in the bearings with the grease. You will see the grease level decrease. Done. You now have 50 year old bearings that are as good as new and you can do this with every bearing you have. Of all the maintenance and restorations I've done over the years, I have replaced very few bearings, only those that were actually broken.
That is a great tip, thanks!
What is the best material to use for the deck? My saws came with particle board. You prefer plywood?
Patrick Borgerding I prefer plywood because particle board tends to sag over time also I have more uses for the left over plywood than I do for particle board.
I have a 12 inch Delta Rockwell 37 inch arm . It can take a 24 inch cross cut . But the arm leans down about 1/4 inch and the mast moves back and forth is there someone who can tell me how to fix it please.
You need to extend the table to support long timber. Like a workstation
One problem it sucks too my dile indicators magnetic base won't lock onto the plywood. Oh hold it you lock it on the blade that way you can turn the arm, and the saw blade maybe it is like a monarch cnc. Or bridgeport mill.
thank you. not everything was pertinent to my craftsman but similar.
Thanks for watching.
The last part of the video shows you cut the wood by pushing instead of pulling. Can I always cut that way or do I have to always cut while pulling?
He pushed because that was the first cut on the table (i assume for future references), and for the fence as well (same reason), so there was no work piece to be cut. I think it wouldn't has been clean (accurate) cut on the fence if he pulled not to mention the danger could occur when carriage (yoke) is moved (pulled) with the same direction with the blade rotation.
Pull (cross) cut (with workpiece) is safer because the entering blade "push" down the material (and to the fence too).
I'm new to RAS, and just setting up/checking mine and would like to know and understand it before(!) i switch it on.
Hope my comment is helpful and (asking) others to correct me if not!
Stay safe and enjoy yr RAS! AB
Hi, I'm looking at an old 10" Dewalt MBC saw just like this and see on the motor it's rated at 1/2 HP at 115v. Can these be rewired for 220v to increase the HP? I can pick it up for $150 but am wondering if it's worth it as 1/2 HP for a saw like this seems really underpowered. I recently passed up a 3HP Rockwell 40c but let it go because it was 3-phase. Have you ever used a VFD with one of these. I know you have a 40C.
Unfortunately the motor on the MBC will always be 1/2hp. Sure it’s not the most powerful saw but lots of people have them and like them. My next ras I add to the shop is going to be a 1/2hp MMB. Here in New England $150 is pretty pricey for a MBC but maybe saws are more expensive where you are. As to a vfd on the 40c, I had mine running off a vfd for a year before the vfd blew up. I then made a simple static phase converter for $50 and have been running it off that for the past 11 years.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop I totally regret passing up the 40c actually. It was a 16" and aside from the phasing issue I was concerned about it just being too big for my shop space. However, they had lowered the price from $250 to $150 and after hemming / hawing for a day it sold out from under me. I kind of expected it but then decided I was crazy not to get it but it was gone. It seems like it would've been the one to get out of the two for its size and HP but the DeWalt seems nice too. I know the old MBC's have a cult following. I'm just really into old Rockwell though. I'm in San Diego BTW, everything is really pricey here no matter what it is unless you hunt a lot and are very patient. Over the last decade I've been lucky to amass a lot of old Rockwell, Delta, and Walker Turner tools for fair prices but still more than you see stuff go for on the east coast. I'll probably launch a channel this spring as I'm building a lot and restoring some of them. Anyway, your thoughts on the RAS stuff is appreciated. I've enjoyed your vids. Lots of good info!
I’m fond of the old Rockwell stuff too. If space is an issue what about a Delta 900 saw? They’re like a smaller version of a 40c. A benefit to the turret arm design of the Rockwell/Deltas is that they can miter to the left as well as the right. Let me know when you start your channel, I love old woodworking machinery.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop Will do. And I forgot to mention I have an RD 990 I picked up for free off CL last year but A; it's missing the table /crank and B; there is a small crack in the cast iron at the rear of the main arm. Not where it attaches to the pole but a few inches in front of that so I've been concerned it could fail. It's not that bad but imagine if the whole thing suddenly snapped while making a cut lol. So for that reason I've kept looking. That and the turret bearings are super stiff and I haven't looked into if they're even replaceble. I love the rod systems of the 30/40c. Much better design.
Outstanding!!!
Thanks!
Why not brake rotor cleaner? seems like that would work great to clean the metal parts. just keep it off of any belts or gaskets.
good video well done
What about sucking as much with a shop vac and how about the real thing oil for wood planes on the up/down shaft
I picked up an old Wards saw, built a nice bench for it, put on a fence and a sacrificial surface..... now I just need somebody to come set it up for me. Installing the fence where I researched the "correct" place for it was, the inside and outside rip rulers and pointer are off a few inches..unless I move the fence back nearly all the way. I'm stressed right out of the gate.... who do I call?
Ryan Wiederstein ghostbusters. In all seriousness the in rip scale should read 0 when the saw is in the “in rip” position and the blade is just touching the fence with the fence in it’s most forward position. The “out rip” scale assumes that the fence is moved back as close to the column as possible. If the scale is several inches off it sounds like the fence isn’t in the correct location or the table dimensions might be different than original. I wouldn’t worry too much about the rip scale as I always use my tape measure to double check it anyways.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop agreed, thank you. I've restored a few cars top to bottom, still have two, been around construction all my life (I'm 44 now so 30 years anyway) 26 years in the hvac industry... I'm better than average with my hands but I just know that if I follow another couple of videos on here I'll be wicked frustrated with it :)
Is there a way I can contact you? I just got my hands on a vintage dealt arm saw and want to make it a new table and other things but I don’t know what I’m doing!
And did he respond to you?
@@davidjanis1997 NOPE!
You need to point out the importance of "Heel" for square edges, and the correct blades for a radial. They are not the same as a table saw. Table saw blades on a radial will knock your teeth out when ripping and over run when cross cutting. 51 yrs with a radial and no issues ( 12" cast iron Craftsman from the old days).
I have a two part video series on choosing blades for the radial arm saw.
So what is the correct blade?
Ross Flowers I’m using the Freud LU82M010 I really like it.
Thank you
Question.. i have the exact same radial arm saw. It was given to me by neighbor after i sold his house and he downsized. My question is its obvious that it hasn't been used in years and as a result it doesn't glide back and forth easily enough when im making simple cuts. Can I apply WD40 to bearings or the arm? If anyone knows the answer to this question, please chime in.. i appreciate any feedback i can get. Thanks again.
Ebolanosrealtor have you tried lubing the bearings like I show @10:28?
WD-40 has a high concentration of wax, and if you don’t get it off it will be even harder to move…. If you want to clean it use brake cleaner or PB Blaster if it’s got surface rust and grime
I realize there is an entire religion around using wd40 for just about everything, but have you considered using PFTE spray for your lube in Dusty environments? I think there is a version made by the wd40 folks too.