Thanks for taking the time to make these videos, you do an awesome job explaining things in detail, nice work. I inherited a RAS from my grandfather who used it for over 30 years, made 100s of pieces of furniture with it, died an old man with all 10 fingers and never burnt down the neighborhood!
Great video making one drawer. Suggestion for if you are making multiple drawers. After ripping all your drawer sides, set your stop block, stack the boards, cut the end off, slide all at the same time to the block, and cut all the sides with one more cut. This will make them exactly the same length. Then slide the stack and cut all the drawer ends. The huge advantage of a RAS is you can cut many boards at once. Like set 1x or 2x4’s on edge and cut the stack for multiple same length boards.
Nice use of your RAS. I have its little brothers, a 12" Delta and a much older Delta/Rockwell 12" It seems that everyone today is afraid of the RAS, but I find them less dangerous than a table saw!
Different tools for different jobs... Let's see what sort of jig you would need to do finger joints on a RAS... :) On a table saw, that's not that difficult and you have minimal blade exposed... The only way that I can think of a doing it on a RAS would be to put the blade horizontal and have the entire blade exposed... And even that would only be able to do short lengths of finger joints, not a 12" board like you might want to do for a large box... I guess you *could* create some sort of sliding contraption that made the RAS into basically a table saw turned on it's side... Or maybe put it in ripping mode and create some sort of fixture that could hold the work piece mostly below the surface of the RAS table...
Hi Great Video. I have a radial arm saw and use it mostly for cross cutting. My table saw is used mostly for ripping. I like this method because it usually saves set up time. It looks like you could just extend the guard by welding or bolting a short extention to the front of the guard. I will be looking forward to future videos.
Dude, when ripping multiples use the next piece as a pusher for the previous one. You can even use a scrap for the final one to just get the cut past the rear of the blade. The pusher shoe you use is not bad since it will also add down pressure, a real necessity for RAS rips! The typical "push sticks" should be outlawed ........ You need two of them and 3 hands to make them all work correctly. Also, add an additional snubber to the nose of your blade guard to extend it enough to just "kiss" the top surface of your workpiece to prevent "lift off". A bent piece of stainless steel would do just fine if bent into a sharp "J" shape and bolted on. A feather board clamped to the fence in front of the blade to prevent lift off would also be helpful. I used a RAS to straight line rip about 800 lineal ft of 1" Cypress that was 14 ft long. My saw table was 28 ft long and the fence was a 18 ft 2" X 6". See this: www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/evil-machine-28461/ The RAS saw was an old underpowered 10" Craftsman, but it did the job if I was patient. I collect RAS and have about 6 of them. I found that the 10" and 12" RAS carriages are interchangeable and you can easily set one up with a dado blade, OR a cross cut blade and swap them out when the operation changes. I hate changing blades. I even made a radial arm router with one carriage, and a 2 axis panel saw with another. I LOVE 'EM! Woodworking since I was 13 years old in 1956. First table saw with HS graduation gift money in 1960. .
Well that was an extremely useful tutorial and an excellent first project for getting a handle on the use of my newly acquired, old saw. Thanks. Say, two things occur to me: 1. Perhaps you could have used a feather board pretty tight to the front of the blade to prevent the change in dado depth you were worried about since that was where the lift was going to come from. 2. Seems like you could put some kind of spring-loaded rolller bearing on the front of the guard to put smooth downward pressure on the inbound stock.
A quality Radial saw is all you need. Table saws cause more injuries by far according to OSHA. One thing I never thought of was slipping by a table saw and putting a hand down to stop your fall in the wrong place. The better the quality and alignment for your Radial the safer. I have a 12" commercial Delta . I did have OSHA in my shop and didn't have my anti kick bar on it , but he didn't fine me and really wasn't concerned. I never use it 😎
Nice saw ❗ but I have best ripping results and less push back in the" Out rip" position . I have adjustable back boards to get the blade close to the fence. I've had far less kicks also , because the carriage is closer to the post and far more rigid and locks in tighter. 😎
Great Vid Ian. Just a note, when you rip a dado, you don't need to push it through. just keep the pressure down and back and take it all the way through. You don't have to worry about a detached board sitting there.
For a drawer bottom, it's possible to use 1/4" material and glue battens on the bottom. Also, instead of using drillbits for spacing and checking the dado cuts, I use bits for a machinist lathe, however key stock from the hardware store can be used as well. They're available in various widths. By the way, that's a nice pushblock you got there ;)
Bob Blarney I actually have a piece of 1/4” key stock that I use for setups. However I figured not every one would have key stock but every one has drill bits. It is a very nice push block, now I just need a plexiglass blade guard to go with it. ;)
Andy Stoll thanks for watching! I think there are many more RAS users out there than the woodworking magazines and most TH-cam channels would have us believe,
David Abineri good question. It was the dado head the dados on the drawer sides ended up about a 1/32” deeper than 1/4” because the sides were slightly warped. So I had to make the rabbits 1/32” longer so instead of messing with widening the dado I just made it in two passes, the second pass just removing the little sliver on the end.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos, you do an awesome job explaining things in detail, nice work.
I inherited a RAS from my grandfather who used it for over 30 years, made 100s of pieces of furniture with it, died an old man with all 10 fingers and never burnt down the neighborhood!
Thanks for watching!
I wish more folks knew of the greatness of the RAS. Thanks for being a good ambassador for the RAS; you do Mr. Sawdust proud.
Thanks! I’m trying my best to spread the word of the RAS.
Great video making one drawer. Suggestion for if you are making multiple drawers. After ripping all your drawer sides, set your stop block, stack the boards, cut the end off, slide all at the same time to the block, and cut all the sides with one more cut. This will make them exactly the same length. Then slide the stack and cut all the drawer ends. The huge advantage of a RAS is you can cut many boards at once. Like set 1x or 2x4’s on edge and cut the stack for multiple same length boards.
pure/ simple genius. excellent MAESTRO. thanks amillion. looking fwd to more of your instructions.
Nice use of your RAS. I have its little brothers, a 12" Delta and a much older Delta/Rockwell 12" It seems that everyone today is afraid of the RAS, but I find them less dangerous than a table saw!
Different tools for different jobs... Let's see what sort of jig you would need to do finger joints on a RAS... :) On a table saw, that's not that difficult and you have minimal blade exposed... The only way that I can think of a doing it on a RAS would be to put the blade horizontal and have the entire blade exposed... And even that would only be able to do short lengths of finger joints, not a 12" board like you might want to do for a large box... I guess you *could* create some sort of sliding contraption that made the RAS into basically a table saw turned on it's side... Or maybe put it in ripping mode and create some sort of fixture that could hold the work piece mostly below the surface of the RAS table...
@@seanseoltoir Here is a link to a video on making box joints on a radial arm saw: th-cam.com/video/7uCoDuEGLt8/w-d-xo.html
Agree. The RAS got an unwarranted bad rap.
Nice push stick! Ant thought of doing a video on making one? Thanks!!
That’s a good idea!
Hi Great Video. I have a radial arm saw and use it mostly for cross cutting. My table saw is used mostly for ripping. I like this method because it usually saves set up time. It looks like you could just extend the guard by welding or bolting a short extention to the front of the guard. I will be looking forward to future videos.
Carl Wehner thanks for watching! Extending the front of the guard could work, I’ll look into that.
Dude, when ripping multiples use the next piece as a pusher for the previous one. You can even use a scrap for the final one to just get the cut past the rear of the blade. The pusher shoe you use is not bad since it will also add down pressure, a real necessity for RAS rips! The typical "push sticks" should be outlawed ........ You need two of them and 3 hands to make them all work correctly. Also, add an additional snubber to the nose of your blade guard to extend it enough to just "kiss" the top surface of your workpiece to prevent "lift off". A bent piece of stainless steel would do just fine if bent into a sharp "J" shape and bolted on. A feather board clamped to the fence in front of the blade to prevent lift off would also be helpful. I used a RAS to straight line rip about 800 lineal ft of 1" Cypress that was 14 ft long. My saw table was 28 ft long and the fence was a 18 ft 2" X 6". See this: www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/evil-machine-28461/ The RAS saw was an old underpowered 10" Craftsman, but it did the job if I was patient. I collect RAS and have about 6 of them. I found that the 10" and 12" RAS carriages are interchangeable and you can easily set one up with a dado blade, OR a cross cut blade and swap them out when the operation changes. I hate changing blades. I even made a radial arm router with one carriage, and a 2 axis panel saw with another. I LOVE 'EM! Woodworking since I was 13 years old in 1956. First table saw with HS graduation gift money in 1960.
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Great video, very well explained. I'm in Rockledge, did you say you are in Cocoa beach?
Well that was an extremely useful tutorial and an excellent first project for getting a handle on the use of my newly acquired, old saw. Thanks. Say, two things occur to me:
1. Perhaps you could have used a feather board pretty tight to the front of the blade to prevent the change in dado depth you were worried about since that was where the lift was going to come from.
2. Seems like you could put some kind of spring-loaded rolller bearing on the front of the guard to put smooth downward pressure on the inbound stock.
A quality Radial saw is all you need. Table saws cause more injuries by far according to OSHA. One thing I never thought of was slipping by a table saw and putting a hand down to stop your fall in the wrong place. The better the quality and alignment for your Radial the safer. I have a 12" commercial Delta . I did have OSHA in my shop and didn't have my anti kick bar on it , but he didn't fine me and really wasn't concerned. I never use it 😎
Nice saw ❗ but I have best ripping results and less push back in the" Out rip" position . I have adjustable back boards to get the blade close to the fence. I've had far less kicks also , because the carriage is closer to the post and far more rigid and locks in tighter. 😎
Great video all around. Glad I stumbled onto your channel.
Thanks!
Great Vid Ian. Just a note, when you rip a dado, you don't need to push it through. just keep the pressure down and back and take it all the way through. You don't have to worry about a detached board sitting there.
For a drawer bottom, it's possible to use 1/4" material and glue battens on the bottom. Also, instead of using drillbits for spacing and checking the dado cuts, I use bits for a machinist lathe, however key stock from the hardware store can be used as well. They're available in various widths. By the way, that's a nice pushblock you got there ;)
Bob Blarney I actually have a piece of 1/4” key stock that I use for setups. However I figured not every one would have key stock but every one has drill bits. It is a very nice push block, now I just need a plexiglass blade guard to go with it. ;)
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop use polycarbonate - acrylic is usually too brittle, although some formulations used for glazing are more shatter resistant.
Love seeing the slow reemergence if ras users. Kudos
Andy Stoll thanks for watching! I think there are many more RAS users out there than the woodworking magazines and most TH-cam channels would have us believe,
They really are a magnificent tool. Not all of them; but the GOOD saws are just really, really useful.
man that is one hella saw you got there!
Yes, yes it is.
Thank you, with a saw that size you should consider hold down wheels. and maybe even a feather board.
👌👌👌👌👌👌❤️❤️💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Thanks, Ian, as always, very well explained. Why not use the dado blades for the rabbit?
David Abineri good question. It was the dado head the dados on the drawer sides ended up about a 1/32” deeper than 1/4” because the sides were slightly warped. So I had to make the rabbits 1/32” longer so instead of messing with widening the dado I just made it in two passes, the second pass just removing the little sliver on the end.
Kudos to you sir from another RAS-ophile
madzebra thanks for watching! RAS are great tools!
Ian, Have you thought about joining the RAS Forum on Yahoo Delphi? Thanks for the video using the RAS.
Airborne Ranger thanks for telling me about the forum, I’ve joined.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop Great! I noticed today that you had. We learn a lot from each other there.
My saw didn't have the pawl either. I find a Dial rod of the correct size works great.
The version of the quarter, quarter, quarter, drawer appears to be easier with the RAS than the table saw version.
I believe it helps to have the blade above the work instead of hidden below thing being cut.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop safer method also
1/4 1/4 1/4 drawer method
WHERE IS THE ANTI KICK BACK DEVICE?
IT HADN’T BEEN BUILT YET.
I wish you were more active.
I wish I was too.