It’s amazing the subtlety of thought that these machinists/engineers put into these things. I have to make a pawl set, as you have shown here, for the Craftsman 12” (113.29501) that I just took apart and rebuilt. What a learning experience! Brother! The things those guys dreamed up. I really hesitate to think of how someone could get the full potential out of a RAS without taking it apart first. What I learned couldn’t have been conveyed properly in a owners manual of 200 pages.
You always want a riving knife on a table saw to prevent kickback (see a great TH-cam video entitled "Kickback on Camera") Technically speaking, radial arm saws do not kickback. They eject wood and this is what the pawls are designed to prevent. I know that the word "kickback" is used to describe every piece of wood that goes the wrong way on a power saw with a circular blade and that radial arm saw manufacturers called these pawls anti-kickback pawls. However, what they really prevent is straight-line ejection of the wood which is different than kickback. If you label them by function, they are "anti-ejection pawls". Nice video and I hope that it encourages every operator of a radial arm saw to use to use these pawls, however you label them, every time they perform a rip function on their saw. Five seconds of additional setup for a rip cut is worth the significant increase in safety which the proper positioning of the pawls provides.
Thank you for this! I think the original may be made of spring steel but the 3/16” metal should make up for that; it’s for sure better than nothing. Just a tip for you if you soak the mill scale over night in vinegar it will just brush off. Thanks for the great shows!
That’s a good tip about the vinegar, I knew it would take zinc off galvanized steel but didn’t realize it would take mill scale off. I will be using that tip in the future.
I have a DeWalt and bought an early Craftsman blade guard and anti-kickback to use on my saw, one thing I noticed is that the mounted position of the flat side on the bar is at different positions on the Dewalt and Craftsman saws as you pointed out 8:30 . A three sided file works great to make a starter kerf for your hacksaw.
Well, I guess now I have to go change the design of mine..... l loved the T-Up for what I hope is the long awaited blade video that will irritate some to no end, and be enjoyed by many more.
Thanks, I really appreciate you making these videos. I bought the same 14" Delta Rockwell saw, and will be rebuilding it this winter. It is in excellent condition and hopefully won't need much work. Ozark Mountain had my owner's/parts manual. The saw came without the anti-kickback setup and the leaves. Renovo parts says they have them, but the price is almost as much as I paid for the saw. One question, do you plan on incorporating a riving knife? I will be ripping some long boards. Thanks again.
Well, that was pretty clever. I liked the deductive reasoning about the more profound reason that those two can’t swing over. I’ll bet you’re right. And I’d hate to imagine the incident in which some operator discovered that shortcoming.
If you wanted all 4 pawls to stop you could find a heavy stop collar to lock on above all 4 fingers level with your notch. Lock the Allen screws in the collar with thread locker so vibration doesn't cause it to loosen. IMO
Well done sir! Where did you find/order the 5/8" rod? McMaster D-Profile Rotary Shafts are closest I can find. Is yours stainless steel? Someone mentioned spring steel - what would be the advantage(s) if any of using spring steel vs. stainless?
The shaft I used was McMaster Carr number 8632T15 which is just normal carbon steel. Somebody mentioned using spring steel for the fingers because it would hold its points better but for this I don’t think it really makes a difference.
The term anti-kickback for the RAS pawl does not capture the crux. In ripping with an RAS, the infeed side tends to lift the work and the outfeed side tends to push down on the work. This is opposite in ripping with a TS. Ripping with an RAS in a sense evens out the unpleasantness or risk, whereas in ripping with a TS all those are at the far end. Since one has to reach over for the far end, to pass the work, ripping with the TS is more unpleasant. The RAS pawl is not a splitter; its function is primarily to prevent ejection. The height of the pawl in relation to the work has to be such that ejection is unlikely, not closest to the work. The pawl is not a splitter like a riving knife or separate splitter for the TS. Even though the work is pushed down at the outfeed for the RAS, a splitter, in addition to the pawl, is still quite desirable.
You say your name too quickly at the start of each video for me to catch, let alone spell properly. I wanted to refer to you in a note to Brian Weeks as you two are the undisputed (IMHO) leaders in mature, reliable RAS content on TH-cam, and found myself stuck. Perhaps you should think of making a clear, overlay title page for your opening scene: The Northland Workshop by Ian xxxxx
How big are the pawls??Paul's??? Also was wondering 🤔, Why don't you just tell us how much the shaft cost you? Why so secretive?? Thanks for the video 👍. I'm entering my 6th decade in life and I have Accumulated a lot of Knowledge in my journey 😀 and back in my time 🗣💭🧑🦯,lol you had to go to the library and look it up in a book 📖! Thank the DOG for the smart phone and TH-cam videos. (umm I should start my own TH-cam channel ✌️
The pawls are 2” long by 1” wide. There’s what the shaft cost isn’t a secret it just didn’t matter for the video since the video will be seen years from now the price I paid for it will be totally irrelevant for most viewers.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop Thank you for replying so quickly 🙂. The price thing was just me being a smart ass,lol! But what your answer was something I didn't even think 🤔 about. That is if someone is watching this 5 yrs from now, the price will be much higher. Thank you again for your help and I'll be looking for your next video (now that I subscribed 👍 to your site). Have a great weekend
My second hand Delta 10 did not have an anti-kickback device. Thank you for providing this video.
Great video. I benefited greatly from your explanation of both HOW and WHY you made the anti kickback.
Thanks!!
Thanks for sharing all this super useful information ! The pawls are missing on my dewalt and now I know what to do !
Glad I could help.
It’s amazing the subtlety of thought that these machinists/engineers put into these things. I have to make a pawl set, as you have shown here, for the Craftsman 12” (113.29501) that I just took apart and rebuilt. What a learning experience! Brother! The things those guys dreamed up. I really hesitate to think of how someone could get the full potential out of a RAS without taking it apart first. What I learned couldn’t have been conveyed properly in a owners manual of 200 pages.
GREAT video and well done concept. These pawls are often missing and your video may save some folks from serious injury.
You always want a riving knife on a table saw to prevent kickback (see a great TH-cam video entitled "Kickback on Camera") Technically speaking, radial arm saws do not kickback. They eject wood and this is what the pawls are designed to prevent. I know that the word "kickback" is used to describe every piece of wood that goes the wrong way on a power saw with a circular blade and that radial arm saw manufacturers called these pawls anti-kickback pawls. However, what they really prevent is straight-line ejection of the wood which is different than kickback. If you label them by function, they are "anti-ejection pawls".
Nice video and I hope that it encourages every operator of a radial arm saw to use to use these pawls, however you label them, every time they perform a rip function on their saw. Five seconds of additional setup for a rip cut is worth the significant increase in safety which the proper positioning of the pawls provides.
Well said…….
You are amazing. Thank you. Missed you. I love the Radial Arm saw!
Thanks! It’s good to be back in the shop.
Thanks for this, glad you're back!
Glad to be back!
Glad your back. Thanks for the vid. Great info as always.
Glad to be back!
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this! I think the original may be made of spring steel but the 3/16” metal should make up for that; it’s for sure better than nothing. Just a tip for you if you soak the mill scale over night in vinegar it will just brush off. Thanks for the great shows!
That’s a good tip about the vinegar, I knew it would take zinc off galvanized steel but didn’t realize it would take mill scale off. I will be using that tip in the future.
I have a DeWalt and bought an early Craftsman blade guard and anti-kickback to use on my saw, one thing I noticed is that the mounted position of the flat side on the bar is at different positions on the Dewalt and Craftsman saws as you pointed out 8:30 . A three sided file works great to make a starter kerf for your hacksaw.
That’s a great idea on the three sided file.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop metal shop "100" years ago.😀
Hey Pawl, man that little shed is huge inside!
Make sure you measure before you order the shaft material. Many DeWalt saws use a 1/2 inch shaft for the anti-ejection device.
Thanks. Now to see if I can adapt the idea to my Craftsman
Thanks for watching! What model Craftsman do you have?
Well, I guess now I have to go change the design of mine..... l loved the T-Up for what I hope is the long awaited blade video that will irritate some to no end, and be enjoyed by many more.
Oh yes, filming has begun on the blade video…
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop *Rubs hands together in anticipation*
Thanks, I really appreciate you making these videos. I bought the same 14" Delta Rockwell saw, and will be rebuilding it this winter. It is in excellent condition and hopefully won't need much work. Ozark Mountain had my owner's/parts manual. The saw came without the anti-kickback setup and the leaves. Renovo parts says they have them, but the price is almost as much as I paid for the saw.
One question, do you plan on incorporating a riving knife? I will be ripping some long boards.
Thanks again.
Well, that was pretty clever. I liked the deductive reasoning about the more profound reason that those two can’t swing over. I’ll bet you’re right. And I’d hate to imagine the incident in which some operator discovered that shortcoming.
If you wanted all 4 pawls to stop you could find a heavy stop collar to lock on above all 4 fingers level with your notch. Lock the Allen screws in the collar with thread locker so vibration doesn't cause it to loosen. IMO
That’s a good idea.
Well done sir! Where did you find/order the 5/8" rod? McMaster D-Profile Rotary Shafts are closest I can find. Is yours stainless steel? Someone mentioned spring steel - what would be the advantage(s) if any of using spring steel vs. stainless?
The shaft I used was McMaster Carr number 8632T15 which is just normal carbon steel. Somebody mentioned using spring steel for the fingers because it would hold its points better but for this I don’t think it really makes a difference.
How long is the rod you purchased from McMaster Carr?
That thing looks rugged - that board doesn't want to move. Nice.
Thanks, I’m pretty happy with it myself.
The term anti-kickback for the RAS pawl does not capture the crux. In ripping with an RAS, the infeed side tends to lift the work and the outfeed side tends to push down on the work. This is opposite in ripping with a TS.
Ripping with an RAS in a sense evens out the unpleasantness or risk, whereas in ripping with a TS all those are at the far end. Since one has to reach over for the far end, to pass the work, ripping with the TS is more unpleasant.
The RAS pawl is not a splitter; its function is primarily to prevent ejection. The height of the pawl in relation to the work has to be such that ejection is unlikely, not closest to the work.
The pawl is not a splitter like a riving knife or separate splitter for the TS.
Even though the work is pushed down at the outfeed for the RAS, a splitter, in addition to the pawl, is still quite desirable.
You say your name too quickly at the start of each video for me to catch, let alone spell properly. I wanted to refer to you in a note to Brian Weeks as you two are the undisputed (IMHO) leaders in mature, reliable RAS content on TH-cam, and found myself stuck. Perhaps you should think of making a clear, overlay title page for your opening scene: The Northland Workshop by Ian xxxxx
That’s a good idea! Incase your still wondering it Iain Portalupi.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop Oh, thank you. Yes, that certainly wasn’t coming across the audio.
Lain, how long are the fingers of pawl?
Nice work.
Unfortunately, for me, you lost a huge chunk of credibility by owning the 'Bionic Wrench' abomination, let alone actually using it . . .
😂
How big are the pawls??Paul's??? Also was wondering 🤔, Why don't you just tell us how much the shaft cost you? Why so secretive?? Thanks for the video 👍. I'm entering my 6th decade in life and I have Accumulated a lot of Knowledge in my journey 😀 and back in my time 🗣💭🧑🦯,lol you had to go to the library and look it up in a book 📖! Thank the DOG for the smart phone and TH-cam videos. (umm I should start my own TH-cam channel ✌️
The pawls are 2” long by 1” wide. There’s what the shaft cost isn’t a secret it just didn’t matter for the video since the video will be seen years from now the price I paid for it will be totally irrelevant for most viewers.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshop Thank you for replying so quickly 🙂. The price thing was just me being a smart ass,lol! But what your answer was something I didn't even think 🤔 about. That is if someone is watching this 5 yrs from now, the price will be much higher. Thank you again for your help and I'll be looking for your next video (now that I subscribed 👍 to your site). Have a great weekend