One of the things I do is check the exhaust manifold nuts and studs for rust. If I decide that they need cleaning, I use a wire brush then take the nuts off and put a tiny smear of grease on the threads to help make future removal a bit easier. Over the years I have had enough of rounded nuts and snapped studs on exhaust ports.
@@MartinRivespeed This is the first motorcycle I was ever taken on a ride when I was 6 years old! Our baby sitter was a University student and she was so re-assuring. I loved it. 2 years later my dad bought me a Honda Z50A Mini Trail. I rode that until he bought me my first "full size" bike when I turned 13. It was a gorgeous Honda SL175. I was a lucky young man. Subscribed from Australia.
Nice informative video Martin This is a great help to me with no experience I am a bit confused about the oil I was told semi synthetic as other oils make the clutch slip Also is the lock nut on the rear wheel a nylon thread or should it have a split pin in it My lock nut just turns when it gets up snug to the other nut
@ you can use semi synthetic oil, as long as it’s motorcycle specific. I tend to use whatever is cheapest! Regards the rear wheel, my cub doesn’t have a lock nut or split pin, the earlier models did. The larger nut holds the rear sprocket carrier in place to make wheel removal easier, the smaller 19mm is the spindle nut, both should snug up tightly, if not I’d say the thread is stripped in the nut, quite a common problem where people over tighten them, that’s why I kept saying don’t over tighten anything so much in the video! Good luck. 👍
Great when you are able to do all your own maintenance.....have to take my RE to a dealer. Looks like even l could change that oil tho 😅
@@JanetWilson-f2f I’ve got a RE Hunter 350 which will feature on the channel soon, including how to service it, so keep watching!
One of the things I do is check the exhaust manifold nuts and studs for rust. If I decide that they need cleaning, I use a wire brush then take the nuts off and put a tiny smear of grease on the threads to help make future removal a bit easier. Over the years I have had enough of rounded nuts and snapped studs on exhaust ports.
@@Christophers-Assorted-Stuff good shout.
Another great video
Yes a wild camp would be brilliant
Thank you very helpful 🤩
Nice service Martin, but you forgot to oil the tyres 😂 😂 😂
@@DavidMurray-f6s damn.. also forgot to fill the brake drums with oil as well.. 🤣
@@MartinRivespeed This is the first motorcycle I was ever taken on a ride when I was 6 years old! Our baby sitter was a University student and she was so re-assuring. I loved it. 2 years later my dad bought me a Honda Z50A Mini Trail. I rode that until he bought me my first "full size" bike when I turned 13. It was a gorgeous Honda SL175. I was a lucky young man. Subscribed from Australia.
Nice informative video Martin
This is a great help to me with no experience
I am a bit confused about the oil
I was told semi synthetic as other oils make the clutch slip
Also is the lock nut on the rear wheel a nylon thread or should it have a split pin in it
My lock nut just turns when it gets up snug to the other nut
@ you can use semi synthetic oil, as long as it’s motorcycle specific. I tend to use whatever is cheapest! Regards the rear wheel, my cub doesn’t have a lock nut or split pin, the earlier models did. The larger nut holds the rear sprocket carrier in place to make wheel removal easier, the smaller 19mm is the spindle nut, both should snug up tightly, if not I’d say the thread is stripped in the nut, quite a common problem where people over tighten them, that’s why I kept saying don’t over tighten anything so much in the video! Good luck. 👍
Thank you , I should be brave and have a go and it get warmer in my garage 😢
Informative video 👍 some good advice there.