Unless you have to don't sand or scrap your new track. They coat it with some kind of metal and any sanding will break that coating and make a possible rust issue. Used track is best cleaned with a scotch bright type pad, or the rougher red pad like that scotch brit type pad. Steel wool would be great on the used track however it lets particles around an could short out your track, or worse yet get into the gears especially a mag-na- traction engine.
Powering the Menards track is really handy. Use a sharp screw driner to open a gap in the underside of the rails. Slip a lug of most any kind in the resulting slot and remove the screwdriver. The lug will be in super tight. Bend the lugs 90 degrees and crimp in the wire. Great connection for next to nothing.
Yes, you are right the corner track are a bit to close. Mount the outside set down screwed in by hand and not to tight but enough to hold it in place, the check the inside track with another train on the corners and watch the area right were it goes from straight to the curves, and that is the most over hang spot. The steamers with the longer front and the wider diesels will be the ones to watch out for and the the over hang of an long rail cars. You might have to compromise and only run certain things on your set up or only on the outside. On my new set up it is close but several big diesels can not run side by side, long passenger cars will be a issue as well but about every thing else works, 031, 034 with a short straight on the curve and 042 on the outside with a short straight as well on a 48 inch wide table.
I use Menard's track and have had good results. Your test is a good example of how good tubular track will conduct electricity. On my layout I have required many electrical connections to keep the level of electricity content because the insertion of switches and uncouplers. You may not have that issue with new equipment, but I use used Lionel 022 switches, and after cleanup I still have an occasional problem.
Noisy, joints were terrible, way over priced for what you get. It does look good , but the quality control of late verses around 09 to 10 when I had my first fast track layout is night and day. I’m hoping for turnouts from Menards at some point to be made…….
What kind of track are you using? If it’s tubular like mine then you just run 2 wires from the track terminals of your transformer to the lock on . They just slide into the lock on. When you push the little silver tabs down, It reveals a hole for the stripped wire to slide into hope that helps . If not I will shoot a video for you
I haven’t heard any beget I’ve issues with manard’s track. I’ m old o 31 guy. Thinking about Gargraves for my layout, but the cost is prohibitive. As fir fast track I’ve heard lot if comments on the lack joinery
It’s worked well for me , when it’s joined it stays tight but it does not join like Lionel. The pins are different and they pop into a crimped rail …… will work with Lionel with Lionel pins
I may be a complete idiot and this may be extremely obvious to someone familiar with the hobby. But... I recently got my first train. It's nothing special by this hobbies standards. Just a Lionel, O gauge Hogwarts Express. I'm a bit of a Harry Potter fan... Anyways. I got a case of the 24, 10 inch straights, and 24, 0-36 curved pieces. The curved pieces all have the pins on one end like the straights... But because of this, you can't flip them to make curves in the other direction unless you pull the pins out and reverse them... Is this normal..? I spent a good 45 minutes scratching my head. Flipping the track in every direction before finally committing to pulling the pins out. I did all that only to discover that when assembling the track and using the reversed curves, it was VERY hard to get them together and the pins don't like to stay in place since they're sorta crimped into the other end the way they are... The fast track is just REALLY loud and obnoxious. In my opinion. It's almost unusable to be completely honest. Especially on my hardwood floors. It just echoes through the floor. At any rate. I'm wondering if it's normal for the whole pin thing to be this annoying... Or are there curved track pieces specifically made to turn in the other direction that I need to get..? Or is there a way to just flip the track that I'm somehow totally missing..? If I DO have to pull the pins myself and reverse the ends. Is there a better way to do it so that putting the pieces together is easier..? Right now i'm using a flat head to pry the track apart, then a set of needle noses to pull it out... It'a a pain in the butt and sorta messes the track up... Is there an easier way..?
@@jonjacob1962 not really, your doing it right. Menards track is a little different from old Lionel in that the Lionel pins slide in either way without the surgery. Menards is purposely made in a one way fashion. Idk why. The pins pop into a crimp that Lionel doesn’t have. I’ve used reg Lionel pins on Menards and it’s a little easier but not much, but it seems to hold together pretty well…..
That is super quiet. My fast track is pretty noisy and has a hard time staying together. Everything is made in China 👎. Menards couldn't sell it so cheap though if it was made here.
Unless you have to don't sand or scrap your new track. They coat it with some kind of metal and any sanding will break that coating and make a possible rust issue. Used track is best cleaned with a scotch bright type pad, or the rougher red pad like that scotch brit type pad. Steel wool would be great on the used track however it lets particles around an could short out your track, or worse yet get into the gears especially a mag-na- traction engine.
Looks amazing and I love your trackplan
I bought a bunch not to long ago, very happy with quality and price.
Powering the Menards track is really handy. Use a sharp screw driner to open a gap in the underside of the rails. Slip a lug of most any kind in the resulting slot and remove the screwdriver. The lug will be in super tight. Bend the lugs 90 degrees and crimp in the wire. Great connection for next to nothing.
Yes, you are right the corner track are a bit to close. Mount the outside set down screwed in by hand and not to tight but enough to hold it in place, the check the inside track with another train on the corners and watch the area right were it goes from straight to the curves, and that is the most over hang spot. The steamers with the longer front and the wider diesels will be the ones to watch out for and the the over hang of an long rail cars. You might have to compromise and only run certain things on your set up or only on the outside. On my new set up it is close but several big diesels can not run side by side, long passenger cars will be a issue as well but about every thing else works, 031, 034 with a short straight on the curve and 042 on the outside with a short straight as well on a 48 inch wide table.
I use Menard's track and have had good results. Your test is a good example of how good tubular track will conduct electricity. On my layout I have required many electrical connections to keep the level of electricity content because the insertion of switches and uncouplers. You may not have that issue with new equipment, but I use used Lionel 022 switches, and after cleanup I still have an occasional problem.
When I was a kid 9 yrs old or so, I'm 52 now, I had tubular track then in 1978 and never had a problem with it. It worked great then .
Nice track plan.
James, how apart are your tracks away from each other so that when you are runing two trains dont bump into each other
I’ll have to measure and get back to you
I love Menards. Wish I could get an engine to go with the track....
Kline had a full range of track curves including 0-36
So you went to tubular track because it was a lot quieter than the very noisy and loud Fast-track?
Noisy, joints were terrible, way over priced for what you get. It does look good , but the quality control of late verses around 09 to 10 when I had my first fast track layout is night and day. I’m hoping for turnouts from Menards at some point to be made…….
I have atlas track and it is very noisy. I'm thinking of going back to tubular track as well.
How do you connect the transformer to the track? If you can please send me a link to the item for it!
What kind of track are you using? If it’s tubular like mine then you just run 2 wires from the track terminals of your transformer to the lock on . They just slide into the lock on. When you push the little silver tabs down, It reveals a hole for the stripped wire to slide into hope that helps . If not I will shoot a video for you
Also watch my video on how to attach the lock on to the track
@@jamesmorgangunsandtrains7132 it would be great if you made a tutorial for it with tubular track! thanks for helping
Super “O” track is 036.
I haven’t heard any beget I’ve issues with manard’s track. I’ m old o 31 guy. Thinking about Gargraves for my layout, but the cost is prohibitive. As fir fast track I’ve heard lot if comments on the lack joinery
May have to go with Menards.
It’s worked well for me , when it’s joined it stays tight but it does not join like Lionel. The pins are different and they pop into a crimped rail …… will work with Lionel with Lionel pins
No I believe marks made 036 also
running some 096 love it
I may be a complete idiot and this may be extremely obvious to someone familiar with the hobby. But... I recently got my first train. It's nothing special by this hobbies standards. Just a Lionel, O gauge Hogwarts Express. I'm a bit of a Harry Potter fan... Anyways. I got a case of the 24, 10 inch straights, and 24, 0-36 curved pieces. The curved pieces all have the pins on one end like the straights... But because of this, you can't flip them to make curves in the other direction unless you pull the pins out and reverse them... Is this normal..? I spent a good 45 minutes scratching my head. Flipping the track in every direction before finally committing to pulling the pins out. I did all that only to discover that when assembling the track and using the reversed curves, it was VERY hard to get them together and the pins don't like to stay in place since they're sorta crimped into the other end the way they are... The fast track is just REALLY loud and obnoxious. In my opinion. It's almost unusable to be completely honest. Especially on my hardwood floors. It just echoes through the floor. At any rate. I'm wondering if it's normal for the whole pin thing to be this annoying... Or are there curved track pieces specifically made to turn in the other direction that I need to get..? Or is there a way to just flip the track that I'm somehow totally missing..? If I DO have to pull the pins myself and reverse the ends. Is there a better way to do it so that putting the pieces together is easier..? Right now i'm using a flat head to pry the track apart, then a set of needle noses to pull it out... It'a a pain in the butt and sorta messes the track up... Is there an easier way..?
@@jonjacob1962 not really, your doing it right. Menards track is a little different from old Lionel in that the Lionel pins slide in either way without the surgery. Menards is purposely made in a one way fashion. Idk why. The pins pop into a crimp that Lionel doesn’t have. I’ve used reg Lionel pins on Menards and it’s a little easier but not much, but it seems to hold together pretty well…..
Also wearing work gloves help to avoid cuts
@@jamesmorgangunsandtrains7132 okay. Thanks a lot for the info. I appreciate it.
That is super quiet. My fast track is pretty noisy and has a hard time staying together.
Everything is made in China 👎.
Menards couldn't sell it so cheap though if it was made here.
Menards track is garbage. I never liked it.