ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ย. 2020
- This video is about how to get the sharpest film scans on Epson V600. I have previously made a scanning video on my Epson V600 by directly scanning the films on the glass of the scanner. Although this method works, I happen to to find a better way of doing it using a film mask/holder from Lomo.
I used Lomo's Digitaliza Film Mask for 120 film along with my Epson V600 in scanning my process. I learnt about this process by watching a video from a guy named Robert Vincze who happend to be using an Epson V800 or Epson V700 series scanner.
This method of scanning may also be applicable to other Epson film scanners such as the Epson V550. And this may also be applicable to other flat bed scanners for film.
The scanning software that I used was Silverfast 8 along with Negative Lab Pro 2.2
Lomo Digitaliza: microsites.lomography.com/dig...
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#howtoscanfilm #epsonv600 #negativelabpro - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
Nice video! To eliminate “softness” when scanning directly on the scanner glass you need to keep the neg completely flat (under some pressure) against the glass. If you simply lay the neg on the scanner glass (as you show in the video), your scanned image will not be sharp. Use a piece of AN glass (lay the glass on top of the neg - tape down one edge of the film to the AN glass if you need to do so to keep it straight). The neg should be emulsion down on the scanner glass. Select Transparency: Glass mode in SilverFast. Negative Supply now sells AN glass - I think 4x5 pieces. They’ve indicated to me they will have 8x10 pcs available at some point.
Thank you so much for such detailed information! I appreciate that info a lot!!! Also, been looking for an AN glass thanks for letting me know about Negative Supply!
@@erwnalejo Certainly. I'd recommend checking out Nick Carver's channel, too. He's done extensive testing using Epson flatbeds and SilverFast.
Everywhere I've seen suggests the base should be down.
Is the v600 focused to the glass surface? This is a moving linear array so I'm not sure depth of field would apply, but I don't find the scans as sharp so far as DSLR scans. It's early days with the V600 fr me though. TIA
@@tsegulin I scan with a V700. I’ve tried emulsion up and emulsion down. I get better results with emulsion down. The V700 focuses at the plane of the glass when the setting is as I described in my initial post.
@@708photog Thanks - that's really good to know.
Wonder why everyone (even Epson) recommends scanning emulsion up? I will test this!
YES!! This has been my workflow for more than a year now, with ANR glass instead of the digitaliza. Adding some auto sharpening during scanning in Silverfast can make a huge difference as well
That’s great to hear! I really like to use ANR but really couldn’t contact the guy. Oh okay I did not know that! Thanks for the insight! I will try that next time!
Do you place your negative below or on top of your ANR glass when scanning?
I believe it’s taped underneath it. You can check this video out: th-cam.com/video/aB_xgKhVyI0/w-d-xo.html
Favorite video you've made. Thanks for this guide!
Thabk you! I am glad I could be of help! Also, check out Robert Vincze’s video to see how to scan using ANR glass which looks sharper than digitaliza but the difference I think is subtle.
that was really helpful. thank you!
No problem! I’m glad to be of help!!
Awesome. I might have to look into getting the 120 digitalizer
Great to hear! I have added the links where to purchase in the description in case you need it.
Great video! I scan negatives with my Sony A7rII & vintage Canon macro lens. While I am VERY pleased with beautiful results I’ve gotten, I still feel like I have a hard time getting that distinct Portra look. I just ordered an Epson v600 and am excited to try it! I had a hard time keeping negatives flat with the DIGITALIZA holders myself; I eventually picked up some PLUSTEK negative holders for both 35mm and 120 and they keep the negatives SO flat!
Thank you! I really like the DSLR scanning process as it is faster and sharper but my workflow and setup aren’t the best for it. Yea you’re right even the Digitaliza doesn’t keep the nega real flat. Thanks for mentioning the Plustek. I might take a look at it! And happy scanning with the Epson V600🤗
Can you use the plustek negative holders on the epson scanner?
@@HueyPProductions this is a good question! Would love to know if it works for Epson V600 too.
Did you ever get the scanner? How does it look?
I raised the Lomo Digitaliza about 2mm higher with some thick rubber stickers in the corners. It got me even sharper results on my V600 so it is worth trying out ✌🏻
Hey that’s what we are aiming for! I am glad it worked for you!
great advice, which rubber stickers do you use (brand and name of product)?
This right here is what I used: amzn.to/3zALy8Q
Amazing 👏🏼👏🏼
Thankyou!
We want more film photography Content !
Coming soon boss man
Great video dude! I use a V600 and silverfast as well for 35mm
Thanks man! Yeah I have been using both for almost 2 years now!
3:39 pretty sure you've converted it with visible borders. Thats the reason for the color difference. When converting with border you will get a more faded, flatter look.
I see. I never thought about that. I will try re-scanning directly on ghr glass but without the border and see if there’s still a color difference
I've noticed this as well scanning with borders ... so I usually have to reset black point in PS with levels or similar. Is there a better way to do it?
I'm wondering if the color difference is affected by converting the neg with the borders, as the program sets the black point to the border and not the image itself. That's why you get a "softer" color looking image with the film borders, because the shadows are lifted a bit, maybe?
Hmmm you may actually have a good point.. Although, in negative lab pro, it has an option in it that allows to buffer for borders in case I want it included. Although you may still have a good point and the negative itself may have been altered even before it was converted using negative lab pro. Thanks for such insight and I will probably look in to it!
I converted the image without the boarder I even WB on it then cropped in and it still came out wired. IDK lol
Hmm. I wouldn't say the difference is increased sharpness (it's not resolving more her or shirt texture detail) but it's noticeably more contrasty. If anything the near-blacks under her hat are losing a little grain in the Lomo scan, although her neck shows more.
I just bought a V600 because scanning with my DSLR took ages but I'm not certain the scanner is as sharp. I find the scanner grain a little mushy. I might scan in bulk on the V600 and for special shots I might re-scan with the DSLR.
Thanks for sharing your scan technique!
No worries and great observation! It made me look at the images and yes, you have a point!
Yes DSLR scanning is much superior than the V600 imo but it just takes so much time to set it up like you said. Also, gets more expensive getting the right setup. But so far I’ve been happy with my current scanning work flow. I have also printed some of work on 8x10 from the V600 and they look nice.
Any tips on making the guide for the Lomo Digitiliza on v600? Thank you for the video btw, I just ordered mine and some small rubber feet that will elevate the holder 3.2mm 🤓
Uhm just measure the sides where you lay flat the film holders bro and apply the tape accordingly. Might take a few trys but shouldn’t be that hard. You’re welcome bro, I am glad I could help 🙂
Would it be possible to elevate the holder with mount board or thin strips of rubber, in lieu of Blu Tack?
Hmm I have personally not given that a try myself. I suggest give it a try and compare the results with and without the strips of rubber.
Good tips, but very hard to judge the sharpness when you scan at 300DPI.
What DPI would you suggest is best to see sharpness?
@@erwnalejo Optically, the V600 isn't good much past 1200, but if you can see an improvement at 2400 or 3200 DPI, that's where you'd see the biggest gains, especially for those of us scanning 35mm as well.
@@RickJohnson I see! Thanks a lot Rick!!!
@@erwnalejo Yeah, looking at other videos, 1200 and even 2400dpi is not uncommon! Beyond that, they say diminishing returns. Yeah, 300dpi is very, very low and Rick is correct!
How do you accrutately determine 3-4mm with the blue tak tape?
That’s a good question. It is more or less a trial all the time when I scan. And I measure it using a ruler every time I scan. It can be very repetitive but I only do it in the beginning and not after each succeeding scans if that makes sense.
Can I ask how you deal with dust and scratch removal using silverfast and scanning in RAW? I also scan in RAW using the Plustek Opticfilm 8200. Because I am scanning in RAW it seems like I am not able to use the dust and scratch removal tools and my images are ridiculously dusty and full of marks despite thoroughly cleaning them beforehand. is there any way to prevent this or any workarounds that you know of?
Sorry for replying so late I did not notice your comment!! Hmm my dust removal is all manual I must say. I try to clean the negs as much as possible before scanning. And right after my post production process (when all is done), I go on Photoshop and just manually clean the dusts away. That’s been my workflow for a while now. And I haven’t explored much of Silverfast’s dust removal tbh. I hope that helps!
Very helpful info! I was just looking online for the digitaLIZA neg holder. Can it be used to show the film tab on edge of 120? Thank you......
By film tab are you referring to showing the info on the film neg?
Correct such as Fuji RDP and frame #@@erwnalejo
Is there a reason not to use Digital ICE when scanning positives? I've noticed on several videos that people don't use it when applying this method (Epson Scanner + NLP). I'm thinking on trying this method and was wondering because it would save a lot of cleaning time. Keep up the good work!
To be honest Digital ICE was something that I use when I used to use Epson Scan before. But this was before the whole NLP workflow. I think I stopped using it because of the recommendations that it alters the negative before even the conversion with NLP. I can’t say for sure how it exactly affects it. And I prefer to just clean the converted images in post rather than fixing the colors (if the weird colors were the effect of Digital ICE) because that’s a lot easier in my opinion.
Also, I am not using Digital ICE because my scanning software is Silverfast and not Epson Scan. And Silverfast is much better compared to Epson Scan in my opinion because it allows to scan negatives in DNG format which is like RAW in DSLRs. I hope this helps!
And thankyou!
@@erwnalejo Thanks for taking the time to answer! I think you can use it on Silverfast as well by checking the iSRD box. But if it may mess with the colors, I think you're right by dealing with the dust in post!
@@oluismoreira I did not know that Silverfast has that functionality! Thanks for pointing it out! Also, one of the reasons why I guess I did not know about iSRD on silverfast is because I was following the Silverfast guide indicated in Negative Lab Pro’s guide. I just follow the guide to get the best results after conversion.
what about for polaroids/fp-100c peel apart film. will it work for these and should I be using holders and where?
I have scanned polaroids (instax) in the past. And I just scanned it regularly as a positive image and got pretty decent results.
I‘m using the digitaliza for 35mm film but the strips still keep curving a little bit instead of beeing completely flat. Have you had that issue and maybe know what the actual problem is?
Yeah I still have that curving problem as well. What i do is if the negstives do not lay flat, I leave it inside a book for a little bit to help it lay completely flat once in the holder.
the white gloves and blue rubber gloves though!!
Hahha kuya sponsored from you know who🤣🤣🤣
So is there a way to get the results on the right side but with the boarders??
Yes there’s a way. You can do it using an ANR glass. You will tape the negatives on the ANR glass
Thank you. Any tips for me as I only want to use what came with my Epson v600 ?
You’re welcome. I just recommend to try to make the negs flat as possible
@@erwnalejo cheers for that
Can you use the digitizer to scan 35mm?
Yes you can. There’s a Lomo digitaliza designed specifically for 35mm. I am working on that cideo as of right now. The digitaliza I used here was for medium format. :)
Awesome
do you need to use anti newton ring glass with this method?
For this method, no you don’t need to use anti newton ring glass since I was using a flatbed scanner
have you had scratches on your negative because of the metal piece in the lomo holder?
Hmm not that I noticed. But it’s totally possible. Also some scratches that I found present on the negative came after development or sometimes my own handling error of the negs
Probably an uneducated question, how do you get your V600 to talk to Windows 10. My new laptop does not seem to be able to communicate. My old Windows 7 laptop does, but...
Hey that’s not a bad question. Hmmm, mine just worked out of the box when I first plugged it. Does yours say atleast if the USB was not recognized when you plugin the V600?
I'm curious. Do you see some chromatic aberration on black-and-white films after scanning?
So far I haven’t seen chromatic abberwtuons on my recent scans. Were you getting it to alot of your scans or just particular ones?
How did you make your scanns colors to look so good? all my scans have a wired color hue to it and no mater what I do to the settings I could never get accurate colors the second I convert them. What wight balance did you use? And when you first convert it with no adjustments does it always bring out the right colors or does it always have a wired color hue?
Thankyou. May I ask what your setup is? Are you scanning using a flatbed scanner or dslr? Also are you using negstive lab pro to convert your images?
Also, another factor that might have a significant impact is during the time when you’re taking photos, were the photos you took exposed correctly? Also I do not know much about development but, who developed your negatives? The pre-scanning process (taking photos, development) definitely has a significant impact if wasn’t done right I suppose. I thought I’d put it out there as well.
@@erwnalejo i use a flatbed scanner (epson v600) i scan as tiff's and I make sure color correction is off. And yes I use negative lab pro to convert them to a positive. I do all the steps like WB on the film boarder and crop in but once I hit convert, the colors look off. And for developing i send my film to Photo vision.
@@erwnalejo to add to this, i notice that if my chemicals are fresh, the colours are much more vibrant. after 10 uses, it started to look bad.
@@rmrfboy Ten uses is on the upper end of a normal 1 liter C-41 solution. You can definitely go there and further without any issue, but you need to adjust development times. You add 2% time for each roll of film you have already developed using that same dev. Meaning for your 11th roll you would add 20% extra time (at a stable temperature) on top of the 3:30 mins that are standardized for C-41. That adds up to 4:12 mins which is significantly longer than the timing for fresh developer. So you see how if you don't do that, when you're approaching ten rolls, your negatives will be severely underdeveloped if you still only do 3:30.
This is helpful. Where are you located? The news/weather commentator was talking about southwest Kansas. Just wondering because that’s where I’m at
Oh I am not from Kansas. I just found the SFX from TH-cam 😅
@@erwnalejo 😅
Do you recommend epson 850 pro or plustek 8200i ai ?
I have never used plustek before so I really cant say much about it. But I heard the Epson 850 is really good
The more I dig into the scanning of film I'm starting more and more wondering if film is worth investment. Can I get the same result, doing the same amount of editing with digital? What are your thoughts on film in this sense?
Yes, film really is an investment given the amount of money you have to soend on film itself, cameras and equipments.
Based on my experience, it is quite hard to replicate. But it’s not impossible. It really comes down to your preference as the photographer.
And after shooting film for a while, I prefer to just shoot film (if I want the film look) instead of replicating the look because I already have a workflow for film.
@@erwnalejo That's true, I especially like the dynamic range film gives and despite the cost the lenses and film cameras are still way more less expensive than digital ones
I find some beauty in just the process of shooting film and I like film as medium which is like .raw but you have it physically and can get back to it later and not worry about accentally formatting it as hard drive (but have to keep it clear of dust and etc.)
Thank you for sharing this tip on scanning process, I'm thinking of buyng and epson v600, trying to understand will it be worth the money comparing to receiving scans from lab (which I'm not fully satisfied now)
@@artemeelemann317 Yep, even myself I love the slow process of film not to mention the outstanding dynamic range.
V600 is a great scanner to start with. But if you can get scans from a really professional lab using some of the best scanners such as the Fuji Frontier scanners then that’s great!
But then again, in my experience, using V600 with Negative Lab Pro is just an amazing combination! V600 is not the sharpest but it’s a good pace to start. You can always upgrade to more high end epson scanners such as the V800 or V850 or other brands.
Or you can do DSLR scanning as well if that works for you but that will require an additional setup and you can capture your negatives in RAW and convert them via Negative Lab Pro.
How can you know you are really leveled with this blu-tac material sticking below? It's uneven material
That’s actually a good point. The way I did it was i measured all sides, from the glass to the outer tip of the film holder, using a ruler.
@@erwnalejo you held the ruler vertically you mean. Man, we're talking millimeters..you managed to monitor such tiny measurements?
Yea I had to test to see the differences.
is negative lab pro stand alone or do you have to use LR?
You have to use LR bro. It is a plug-in specifically made for LR.
yo dude where did you get your gloves?????? been looking for gloves that are actually good
I took it home from work before 🤣 But you can find some nitrile gloves from walmart or hardware store. I found some there.
Hi Erwin! I recently bought the 35mm and 120 film holders from Lomography.
I used them on my Epson v850 but surprisingly the results are nothing less than terrifying!
In fact, the scans come out all blue, or green, or black and the negatives depending on where I place the holder are either glimpsed or not seen at all, turning completely black.
I thought it was a scanner problem but by trying to scan with the epson holders, everything is regular.
Does anyone using the Lomography 35mm or 120mm holders have any ideas how to solve this problem?
All day trying to figure out what is going wrong. zero results!
Could you help me please?
That is so weird! I cannot say for sure what the issue is but I never had such issues before with mine. And I am using both 35mm and 120 film holders from Lomography.
Those are the digitaliza film holders that you have correct?
In fact, I just recently scanned photose and they turned out looking exceptional..
Use the Epson Scan software and the Epson film holder. Create an additional single frame option when required using electrical tape and an excess piece of film. Done and done. Manual dust removal pre-scan with a spotting brush and a loupe, manual dust removal post scan in PS at 100% using combination of clone stamp tool and spot healing brush.
Like for the video. Tell me if anyone knows what is the reason for the error "The image size is too large. Specify a smaller resolution or scale, or the size of the selected area up to 10500x30000 pixels"
How did this end up being this large btw?
This is an old video but dude if you like the boarders you get from the straight glass photo just take that photo you took straight on glass….save it as a vector and just stage new photos that were scanned on the holder over to the boarder one and you can keep the boarders
Thank you so much! I’m about to use my V600 to scan family negatives. What’s the best DPI? Another TH-cam video person said 4800 dpi was good enough.
You’re welcome! I am using 3200 i thnk. But a lot of folks are saying anythng more than 2500 wont make any difference as 2500 dpi is the best the v600 can do. Also that way you can save on storage space and scanning time. Hope this helps!
@@erwnalejo thank you
@@marcwcassidy you’re welcome!
Has the 120 holder been discontinued? I can’t find it in their shop when I click the link. Only 35mm and 110.
Hmm I am not sure. Have you tried looking at B&H photo? Also, hold off buying because I am making a video on plustek film holders which keep the negatives flat as opposed to the digitaliza film holders. And I think produces sharper results based on my results.
@@erwnalejo Will do. Thank you!
@@jerry.cray.. you’re welcome!
Hey, I wonder why you make this video after you showed how to scan with a digital camera? Were there any downsides to that?
How did you get Silverfast free? I also own an Espon V600 but can't figure out how to get the software free.
I was able to get one because I have an Epson V600. If you own a V600 or any Epson scanner (I might be wrong) all you need to have is the scanner’s serial nmber I thnk and you can put that in on silverfast’s download website.
Appreciate the comparison, but absolutely disagree with you on which one preferred! The Lomo Digitaliza is much clearer and sharper. You may like the "softness" you describe, but this is absolutely not wanted as your original is compromised and you cant go back.
I actually do prefer the results from the Lomo Digitaliza. I was just not expecting the soft look when directly scanning on the glass. And how do you mean the original is compromised? The film is compromised during the scan itself?
@@erwnalejo "And how do you mean the original is compromised?"
What I mean is anything is only as good as the original. Like, if you scan as 100dpi, you cant make something better that the original and only gets degraded from that.
If you image is "softened"...it's already compromised and you can't get back to the clarity of the original. If that makes sense.
So in that, scanning directly on the bed would not be advantageous (even if someone liked the softening of the image). If one wants that....scan normally and apply the appropriate filter.
2:29 - yeah for you it isn’t. It is for those who want them.
Ok
Hey Erwin 👋🏻
What happened to your insta accounts?
What about it?
@@erwnalejo when I try to tap the account in your description I get an “an error occurred” message so I thought the accounts are gone?
@@sonicdrone hmm that’s weird. Maybe the link I have is no longer working. But yes, I still have them. I just checked them and they are working fine - @analogueville & @luciddreamsmgzne
Don't need the crappy background music
Lol
Only one criticism. Lose the music and radio. I have my own music going. I just want your excellent expertise.
Just don‘t buy the v600 for slides or film! It is total crap for that purpose! The resolution is just not at all what it should be, apparently because the scanner cannot accommodate for the distance of the slide/film to the glass. I tested it and compared results with a plustek slide scanner. Just try for yourself and you will notice the tremendous difference. There’s also resolution comparison videos here on TH-cam. Even taking photos with a macro extension tube and a DSLR will get you much better results than the v600!
Thank you! Which plustek scanner do you have?
I tested the 8300i. SilverFast SE comes with some very annoying limitations as well, but the resolution and general quality of the scan is good. Afak the 8200i is only slower but comes with a more comprehensive version of the software.
I see! Have you had a v600 before and was able to compare your 8300 i results with?