I have for years put the freon in my older vehicles, and others as well, after the winter has leaked enough freon to shut the compressor down, all by ear and sight. Yesterday I was doing the same thing on my friends 2002 1500 5.3L and the old way did not work. I put the two small cans of freon as always however, the compressor would not run. After viewing other TH-cam videos, and a paperclip I was able to find that the A/C relay in his under the hood fuse box was not working and replace this, still no cold air... Again with the paper clip I was able to see that the A/C cycling pressure switch was the final problem, replaced it and very cold A/C. That said, after watching you work through a non-working A/C system with the gauges, and vacuum pump I now understand how to use the once baffling gauges. Thank you, After your video, and reading the comments below am researching the gauges, fittings, and vacuum pump to properly do the job. Six years ago, and still improving complete strangers lives.
Well thanks for the kind words. As a DIY person that does everything myself I sometimes fumble my way through stuff and eventually figure it out. But there is a lot of negative Nellie's out there . I post a lot of things as a DIY, but this particular video one negative comment was "this guy did EVERYTHING wrong, don't watch" But yet I have ice cold air. So again thanks for the positive comment.
Well, I didn’t see your video in time. Took my 02 Sierra to a local shop yesterday. They hooked it up to a machine that did the entire process automatically. They did replace the inlet valves first. That was where my refrigerant has leaked out. Vacuum held, gassed it up, done. For $50 - less than the cost of a set of gauges from Harbor Freight.
Awesome video buddy. Love the commentary, and the step by step was very helpful. Working on my 2000 GMC Sierra 1500, appx 180k miles, trying to sort out the A/C problem that just surfaced, and this was great. Thanks!
Great, easy to follow video. Well done, Sir. The only thing I think you might have missed showing us is putting a little of that A/C oil on the o-rings before re-installing the lines on the accumulator. That helps keep the O-rings from drying out and cracking. Other than that, you have probably saved a lot of folks watching this between $400-$500 bucks!! Thanks so much!
I'm working a the same 5.3 liter engine. I think you should have replaced the orifice filter too. It's located between the high-side and low-side port. Great video. Only video I found on this engine. Orifice is $5. easy to replace.
Nice vid man!!! the 99-06 GM trucks/suv's were notorious for leaking from the condenser as well. just replaced mine as well as the high & low fittings as they were leaking to
i might of missed you do it but you should always purge the yellow line with freon before you open the valves befor 1st can and again amytime you change cans or you suck the air in the hose into the system
i HAVE a 2001 Suburban and just rolled over the 300K mile point - still, drove long distance and didn't use a drop of oil on the entire trip. My advice is to use Synthetic Oil and keep everything in good repair. The newer Chevy V8's don't last as long with AFM systems like different lengths on the lifter. Chevy is cheapening their products, but the older engines without AFM are much better in performance and durability.
Amazingly, also, I still have original brake pads on one of axils, so I'm happy with the product, but again I wouldn't trust Chevy on the big investment for the newer cars.
How does that work when the high and low are hooked up to the same line it looks like. Explain please. Most have two seperate lines to hook to.thank you
I'm not positive but it appears that in between the high and low ports there is some kind of Union. I assume it allows the flow to go one way kind of like a diode. I thought the same thing when I saw the two ports on one line. trust me I looked and it's the only two ports available. plus the fact that they won't fit on the fitting if not the correct ports and it worked and still working.
after the high port in between the 2 is the orfice,, basically a restriction which cause the gas to go back to fluid theres a union inbetween the orfice is there
Nice video, my sierra has no cooling fan on the ac condenser in front. It doesnt blow ice cold but on the highways it sort of work. Im thinking low charge. Does yours has a fan ?
an electric fan on top of the mecanical one? I might not have a electric ac fan because I have a diesel engine that requires more flow to actual radiator.
i just looked at pump, it appears to have a kind of pressure release cap. i took it off and the center inside goes back and forth with spring tension, but even so next time i use i will try with cap off. thanks
yeah a few people pointed that out...don't know its original truck, maybe some kind of one check valve is my guess. I don't know jack shit about it but it still works today.
The orifice is in between those...it's a metering device...technically everything is in line...it's a closed loop. Like a TXV or a piston on a residential split system or a refrigerator...that orifice pulls out with needle nose pliers and should be replaced when the system is open....the cost $5 and it's a crucial part of the refrigeration cycle
I would definitely replace the accumulator and replace the orifice if it's over 5 year old. I'd also change the filter and clear the condensation drain tube.
It really is, when it comes into contact with air or humidity it solidifies. Now imagine if your ac system had some trapped air or wasnt vacuumed properly.
Good job but one main thing you need to do is Purge the yellow house by just unscrewing it a couple turns before you open the low side valve....I cringed everytime because the hose is full of enough air to defeat the vacuum and suck in moisture from the air. ....air and moisture in a system is bad!...great job otherwise....you mentioned the vacuum pump getting hot....I'd change the oil with some good vacuum pump oil and see how that works.
I know this video is almost 3 years old but, from what I have read and videos I have seen, that a/c stop leak is one of the worst things you can do. The tubes inside the condenser are very small and that stop leak will do nothing but clog them.
blueknight I agree on the stop leak stuff I must have a small pin hole somewhere because I have to recharge this every year but it still works so there's that
I have for years put the freon in my older vehicles, and others as well, after the winter has leaked enough freon to shut the compressor down, all by ear and sight. Yesterday I was doing the same thing on my friends 2002 1500 5.3L and the old way did not work.
I put the two small cans of freon as always however, the compressor would not run.
After viewing other TH-cam videos, and a paperclip I was able to find that the A/C relay in his under the hood fuse box was not working and replace this, still no cold air... Again with the paper clip I was able to see that the A/C cycling pressure switch was the final problem, replaced it and very cold A/C.
That said, after watching you work through a non-working A/C system with the gauges, and vacuum pump I now understand how to use the once baffling gauges.
Thank you,
After your video, and reading the comments below am researching the gauges, fittings, and vacuum pump to properly do the job.
Six years ago, and still improving complete strangers lives.
Well thanks for the kind words. As a DIY person that does everything myself I sometimes fumble my way through stuff and eventually figure it out. But there is a lot of negative Nellie's out there . I post a lot of things as a DIY, but this particular video one negative comment was "this guy did EVERYTHING wrong, don't watch" But yet I have ice cold air. So again thanks for the positive comment.
Well, I didn’t see your video in time. Took my 02 Sierra to a local shop yesterday. They hooked it up to a machine that did the entire process automatically. They did replace the inlet valves first. That was where my refrigerant has leaked out. Vacuum held, gassed it up, done. For $50 - less than the cost of a set of gauges from Harbor Freight.
Awesome video buddy. Love the commentary, and the step by step was very helpful. Working on my 2000 GMC Sierra 1500, appx 180k miles, trying to sort out the A/C problem that just surfaced, and this was great. Thanks!
Great, easy to follow video. Well done, Sir. The only thing I think you might have missed showing us is putting a little of that A/C oil on the o-rings before re-installing the lines on the accumulator. That helps keep the O-rings from drying out and cracking. Other than that, you have probably saved a lot of folks watching this between $400-$500 bucks!! Thanks so much!
I'm working a the same 5.3 liter engine. I think you should have replaced the orifice filter too. It's located between the high-side and low-side port. Great video. Only video I found on this engine. Orifice is $5. easy to replace.
Nice vid man!!! the 99-06 GM trucks/suv's were notorious for leaking from the condenser as well. just replaced mine as well as the high & low fittings as they were leaking to
You made it so easy, I think I can do this on my 2009 2500 Ram truck.
Thanks for sharing your video Sir, much appreciated.
I paid $385 for 2 pounds of 134a, low pressure switch and a orivice tube at my local ac shop! That shit won't happen again.
Excellent stuff to know, AC shops are ridiculously expensive! Hold at -26merc and you’re good, no leaks 👍
Excellent job. However id like to know if what you did actually worked out 6 months later.
Good vid. I got a lot out of it. Thanks for putting in the effort to make it happen. I appreciate it.
i might of missed you do it but you should always purge the yellow line with freon before you open the valves befor 1st can and again amytime you change cans or you suck the air in the hose into the system
i HAVE a 2001 Suburban and just rolled over the 300K mile point - still, drove long distance and didn't use a drop of oil on the entire trip. My advice is to use Synthetic Oil and keep everything in good repair. The newer Chevy V8's don't last as long with AFM systems like different lengths on the lifter. Chevy is cheapening their products, but the older engines without AFM are much better in performance and durability.
Amazingly, also, I still have original brake pads on one of axils, so I'm happy with the product, but again I wouldn't trust Chevy on the big investment for the newer cars.
Your vernacular and choice of terms reminds me of my Navy days. Am I correct in assuming that you spent some time in the Navy?
Yes. 10 years from 1985 to 1995
good job partner I learned by trial and error, sometime's there is a orfice tube @ the bottom of the a/c condenser...
You mean the evaporator; or in some cases an expansion valve.
Great job.well done.
Can you please tell me where you purchased the new sensor for the cutoff. I am definitely at a cussing point.
It help me out a lot thank you and taking for taking your time to help us out 👍👍
How do you remove liquid from the valcum
I have an 04 silverado, and hope that this will work. I havent tried anything yet.
sweeet that's what I like to see and here great job!!!!
sweeeet gotta find one near by thanks happy 4th of July!!!
How does that work when the high and low are hooked up to the same line it looks like. Explain please. Most have two seperate lines to hook to.thank you
I'm not positive but it appears that in between the high and low ports there is some kind of Union. I assume it allows the flow to go one way kind of like a diode. I thought the same thing when I saw the two ports on one line. trust me I looked and it's the only two ports available. plus the fact that they won't fit on the fitting if not the correct ports and it worked and still working.
Ok thank you, i'll have to give it a try. thks alot
after the high port in between the 2 is the orfice,, basically a restriction which cause the gas to go back to fluid theres a union inbetween the orfice is there
The metering device is in there....between those two ports it goes from high pressure to low pressure
Nice job buddy
Can u put links to stuff on Amazon
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. The compressor sounded a little noisy. How's the repair holding up for you?
Nice video, my sierra has no cooling fan on the ac condenser in front. It doesnt blow ice cold but on the highways it sort of work. Im thinking low charge. Does yours has a fan ?
+Veikra yes mine does have a fan...sorry for the 1 month delay for reply.
an electric fan on top of the mecanical one? I might not have a electric ac fan because I have a diesel engine that requires more flow to actual radiator.
got the same one work's great even after dropping it dozens of time's!!!
Great job Your vacuum pump has a exhaust port on it you were running it closed that's why it is so hot.
wow thanks
i just looked at pump, it appears to have a kind of pressure release cap. i took it off and the center inside goes back and forth with spring tension, but even so next time i use i will try with cap off. thanks
How is it holding up? Still blowing cold? How did the static pressure test go? We're they even? Thanks for the video. I'm going to do mine soon.
+AlapahaGuy it worked all last summer. have not used a/c yet this year but i hear compressor kick on and off with defrost mode
That's normal.
Why the hell is the low side and the high side port both on the same line set?
yeah a few people pointed that out...don't know its original truck, maybe some kind of one check valve is my guess. I don't know jack shit about it but it still works today.
The orifice is in between those...it's a metering device...technically everything is in line...it's a closed loop. Like a TXV or a piston on a residential split system or a refrigerator...that orifice pulls out with needle nose pliers and should be replaced when the system is open....the cost $5 and it's a crucial part of the refrigeration cycle
I would definitely replace the accumulator
and replace the orifice if it's over 5 year old.
I'd also change the filter and clear the condensation drain tube.
very nice thank's for sharing!!!
thanks for sharing. I'ma DIYer also. thanks. my ac is only 20' colder than the outside. I have a 99slt. gonna try n Charger
charge her..
Stop leak is horrible for your ac system
It really is, when it comes into contact with air or humidity it solidifies. Now imagine if your ac system had some trapped air or wasnt vacuumed properly.
Good job but one main thing you need to do is Purge the yellow house by just unscrewing it a couple turns before you open the low side valve....I cringed everytime because the hose is full of enough air to defeat the vacuum and suck in moisture from the air. ....air and moisture in a system is bad!...great job otherwise....you mentioned the vacuum pump getting hot....I'd change the oil with some good vacuum pump oil and see how that works.
I know this video is almost 3 years old but, from what I have read and videos I have seen, that a/c stop leak is one of the worst things you can do. The tubes inside the condenser are very small and that stop leak will do nothing but clog them.
blueknight I agree on the stop leak stuff I must have a small pin hole somewhere because I have to recharge this every year but it still works so there's that
J La Then I would just use that florescent oil or whatever it's called and buy/ rent the light to determine where the leak is.
the only thing I don't like about those gauges I didn't know the valve on gauges were frickin plastic!!! I used good ol'' j b weld
I relly need to buy one 30 buck's wow can u send me a link where u got it from thank's!!!!
Go to Harbor Freight Store.
I need to get me one of those vacuum pump's tired of renting em from o reilly.
Good video dude and i dont know why but every time you said shit i laughed like hell thanks for sharing and shit.lmao
exactly they wanted to charge me 480.00
please dont post this nonsense