Front Springs And Shocks Replacement 2010 Ram 1500 - Part 3 - INSTALL!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Lets get the truck back together. I have almost all the parts I need. I wonder if the new strut bushings will go in easier than they came out...
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I like the way You solve each problem as they arise....good job
Good stuff Dave!!
So you’ve motivated me again and I have to bother you with another question … I’m case I have the problem with bushing. If I’m right that’s a 2 1/2 inch piece of steel pipe that you beveled?
I can’t remember the diameter. It’s a bit of that pipe you find in the basement holding the house up. Not our house lol. I found it at the side of the road.
No LEGO was harmed in the making off this VIDEO...!
Awesome 👍
I did this to my Ram a couple years ago and wish I had this video then. Replaced shocks and upper a-arms, but now I have a metallic squeak I cant get rid of. Any suggestions? Only does it over small bumps.
Yeah, mine is doing that now too. I think it might be the front sway bar. Maybe the bushings or drop links. I'll look into it.
Adapt and overcome
I would loc-tite those upper ball joint nuts,the nyloc nuts you reused are one time use only.
Thanks for the info
Hey dave. Well, You didn't get the job done but we are all learning hot too. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Finished it today, update tomorrow.
Tighten it til just before it loosens
You could drive it without the sway bar connected if you really wanted to. It wouldn't hurt anything
@@brianhaw9398 looks like it might any sway bar bushes to with how it moved easy
Great work Dave !
Looks good. Any thoughts on adding some anti-seize to the lower strut bolt that goes through the bushing?
i was thinking the same thing
Added some copper slip.
@@ScottRods Sweet
You got cow parts, Moooog
What a bear !
Only recommendation I would make is to tighten the lower strut bolt that goes through the bush with the weight of the vehicle on the ground, tightening them with the suspension at full droop puts excess twist on the bush when your suspension hits full compression and can tear the bush.
Its a pain tightening them with the car on the ground but will save you pain in the long run.
I thought about that, and watched many video's on the subject. No-one did that.
The bolt runs through the bushings steel inner sleeve without interference, unlike the old control arm pivots that had no sleeves. Learned the hard way when they all deformed and tore them on my first Chevelle.
The inner sleeve is bonded to the bush rubber and does not rotate in the bush, same as the bolt does not rotate in the sleeve so it twists the bush, which is what it's supposed to do and if tightened at ride height the bush can twist evenly with compression and droop, if the bolt is tightend at droop, it will already have twist on it at ride height and twists even further under compression.
This does not apply to nolathane bushes as the sleeve moves freely within the bush.
Just what I was taught when I worked doing 4wd suspension systems
He did show the bolt rotating in the sleeve.
Unreal job. Fantastic work! I commend your patience sir. I wonder if it would’ve been easier at some point to just replace the lower arm too. 🤷🏻♂️🇨🇦👍🏼
It's always easier to just keep replacing parts, but where do we stop? lol
Can I Ask you something stupid?
What color stain is that on your stairs?
That’s the color I’ve been looking for. Thank you
Really not sure, the house came with them, but I would guess "Espresso"
I have the exact same truck! Same color and all - Laramie. Did you intentionally leave out the strut spacers at the top in order to lower your truck? Because when I placed the new and old struts side by side, I noticed how the new struts were noticeably shorter, so I removed the spacers from the old, and installed them on the new.
Mine looked the same height (old and new). Did you need to remove the springs to do that?
Hello Dave, where did you order the tool from min 7:25 that you used to press in the bearing? I have so many things to do with my RAM too....
It came from Amazon. It was a subscriber gift. Pretty awesome. www.amazon.ca/Orion-Motor-Tech-Separator-Adapters/dp/B01N7CO50E/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1VHIS7KRS97R1&dchild=1&keywords=bushing+press+kit&qid=1622631956&sprefix=bushing+press%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A1R5RH6SRZN4Q4&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVExOTVRJSVk2NkUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4MDUxODgxTEVSUU1QNVNaUVg1JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5MDg0NzYyUEQwME1XUFZURTYwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
@@ScottRods Ah great, many thanks
@@mikeHD74 What's on your jobs list?
@@ScottRods I'm sorry I only just saw your answer. I have to replace the lower ball joints and the bushings of the front lower control arms. I will have problems with the nut on the drive shaft because the thread is completely rusted.
@@ScottRods doing mine too, got one bolt stuck too lol
Hello Dave, did you work without torques when tightening?
I would always advise to follow torque settings whenever possible. I generally only use torque settings on engine parts or the like I generally know by feel how tight a bolt should be.
@@ScottRods did you use copper paste at 11:50 to press in? I have that now on the weekend still before me and the front and rear control arm bushings I must also renew.... that will be fun...
@@mikeHD74 yes I did, but any grease would help. I just had the copper stuff nearby. Good luck on your quest.
Moog part number?
No idea, I didn't use Moog, lol.
furst
no brake job is complete until you flush the brake fluid.