I'm sorry to tell you this, but the 3000gt VR4 is smarter than you are! Those cars were so far ahead of their time you really had to be a factory trained technician to set them up right. Lucky for you, I was a factory trained Mitsu tech from that era. First of all, 3000 gt's cold started and ran rich as shit in order to get the cats up to operating temp ASAP. If you start it up cold and let it warm up over and over again without driving it at least 25 miles or for at least 30 mins the plugs foul out. Just moving them around on the dealership property would foul the plugs when they were brand new! The warranty fix for this was to replace the front 3 plugs with new ones and drive the hell out of the car, until the idle smoothed out, to burn off the back 3. YOU ABSOLUTELY WANT TO INSTALL THE NGK BPR5E PLATINUM PLUGS! I know they're expensive but necessary.Second, every time that you disconnect the battery, the ECU loses its memory and the settings for basic idle and base timing.This is why your engine idles at around 1100 RPM. The computer is pretty smart and it can make a guess of how to apply the timing advance curve, but if you really want her to pull like never before....then listen closely.Begin by cleaning the throttle body blade so that there isn't any carbon on it. Hold it open and wipe it with a cloth soaked with carb or brake cleaner then reattach the air snorkel. With the engine idling at operating temp (after the fans have come on once and turned back off), either plug in a scan tool to the diagnostic connector under the dash on the drivers side of the car, OR, connect a jumper wire from the ground pin in the same diag. conn to a chasis ground. THIS WILL PLACE THE ENGINE IN "BASIC IDLE MODE". If the engine stalls, or still registers above 500 rpm you need to adjust the idle air bypass screw located on top or the throttle body under that big rubber plug. Once that is set, and leaving the ground that you placed connected, look for a tan colored single pin dummy connector plug against the fire wall and behind the battery tray. It's a single wire pig tail asually taped to the main harness. Just pull the plug out and set it aside. What you have now is a pin directly connected to the ECU with a 5.0 VDC reference voltage on it. Connect one end of a jumper wire alligator clip to the Battery Neg clamp nut and touch the pin inside the single pin connector with the other end of the same jumper wire for a second. The engine might dip slightly. When everything is set and the grounds disconnected, the engine should idle warm at 750 rpm's + or - 100 rpm. THAT'S IT! CONGRADULATIONS YOUR CAR SHOULD RUN A WHOLE LOT BETTER NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hello, could use some help. I have a 1994 vr4 and it just fell on its face while driving I’m a college student and I have no idea what to do. The car idles rough but when I rev it to 2k it will die on me and and all of the gauges will rush go off. Please if you can text me at 262-501-4182. Thank you
Kyle Lee Check your number 5 plug wire for small burn holes in the boot on the spark plugs end. Mitsus are notorious for a problem with their plug wires arcing out the side and grounding to the cylinder head.
To all of you preaching about low compression. This motor is turbo charged!!! Hello? It’s normal for a turbo engine to have slightly lower compression than a naturally aspirated one. Turbo boost causes excessive heat which causes detonation. Lowering the c/r lowers heat stresses AND increases volumetric efficiency due to the boost. I don’t see anything wrong with the compression at 120psi. Besides the pressure is just a guide and all 6 can vary +\- 10%.
I checked my compression on a NEW Rebuild 6G72 Twin Turbo VR4 Engine and I had 120psi on each cylindre in cold condition. I used the same gauges like you. It seems your compression is okay for this car.
Marcos Torrani Hello Marcos. Thank you very much for the complimentary words. I have often thought about starting a mechanical TH-cam channel, but I don’t own a Mitsubishi! I’m happy to help people with these cars because well, they are just so technologically advanced! Don’t hesitate to hit me up if you ever have a question.
MAN,Im new to the vids on this vr4! I saw the vids from the last owner & now I see that you are putting in some work!!! I hope you rebuild that car & get it running as good as new or better!!! I figure, if you rebuild the motor, bore it out & rebuild the head & replace the valve stem seals(would possibly help fix the smoking) but, id rebuild the motor & upgrade the turbo's! I know by simply replacing your exhaust or downpipe, you will gain 15 hp... GOOD LUCK!!! IL BE WATCHING YOUR BUILD!!! AWESOME CAR & LOTS OF POTENTIAL!!!
Hello. I checked the compression on a NEW Rebuild 6G72 Twin Turbo VR4 Engine and I had 120psi on each cylindre in cold condition. I used the same gauges like you. It seems your compression is okay for this car.
Really glad that you've found out the problem ! Compression problem, mean need to replace the pistons or replace the cylinder block ? whoa I think it will take a long time to fully restore this car. Goodluck m8
That car has a 1/4 of a million miles on it and a very questionable service history. Those results are to be expected. I'd say as long as it keeps going and runs decent who cares. So far you have done a phenomenal job of slowly brining this car back. Keep up the good work!
Valve seals was a common problem with the 3.0 at a 100k right along 225k if you was planning a rebuilding the top . I would suggest IMO to rebuild the bottom . Because the Rods & Mains will be the next to go from stress due to compression boost. Great vid & car 💯😎
Jursaw it just needed to much !! Nickel and dimed you to death .Lol I sold my 2 dodge stealth's & girl hit me & totaled my VR4 spider that hurt . Had my fill !! but them cars are climbing up in Value.
dont rule out your maf sensor just yet... you still have testing to do. its too exspensive to throw parts at. hook a good scanner up to it and also black probe it with a multimeter
Jursaw basically the car starts running crazy yes there is more testing to be done but if the car doesn’t run weird when it’s unplugged that’s an indication that the maf is bad
Low compression could mean carbon in the valves or upper piston area since it has been siting around for ages before. Spraying some Subaru upper engine cleaner directly onto the valves and piston tops and letting it sit might help. Just a thought :)
I think the car has no problems since it is turbocharged. checked my rebuild engine with 20k miles and had 120psi on all cylindres. Car made 350AWHP on the dyno at 13psi. runs great.
Good deal. The maf is still $$$ tho. Can get a new one and a cold air intake at the same time. Glad you figured it out. Motor still needs a rebuild I bet.
I had a thought that the maf might not be bad since the engine is burning oil and running so bad the computer is trying to adjust to make it run better. Wow... you sure got a TH-camr nightmare car. What about a junk yard motor? You can put the shiny intake manifold and valve covers on it. What a money pit.
barry k. That could be it as well, I probably got one of the worst cars out there haha Hard to find a junkyard engine around here. The regular non turbo 6g72 has high compression pistons and I think different cam lift or something along those lines. I would have to look more into it.
nothing wrong with compression. I you would check Auto Data you would know this engines have lower compression than 11 bars. something around 8 bars as i remember .
Could you just remove the bad pistons and drive with fewer ones? It would indeed reduce the power, but maybe the fuel economy would improve. I read about a guy doing that in a Fiat 127.
Hello. I checked the compression on a NEW Rebuild 6G72 Twin Turbo VR4 Engine and I had 120psi on each cylindre in cold condition. I used the same gauges like you. It seems your compression is okay for this car.
I could have told you that I'm surprised the last guy didn't change it since the mouse was living directly against it he was sitting on top of the filter probably sleep against the maf and probably pissed all over it and stuff and the amount of trash and feces that was on the air filter I would have changed it with the filter
If i knew how to send pics through here i would send you a pic of mine this summer im taking the heads off rebuilding those and putting 2 1/2 inch obxr long pipe open headers on it full exhaust new calipers and breaks and possibly swap the antilog gauges with some digitals just so i can see what its exactly doing. But im having a problem right now. Its jumping up to 14 volts and my coolant light park break and batery light come on but pulsates then drops volts and they turn off. I havent dug into it yet bc its freezing but yeah. Any one have any suggestion? Oh and it runs fine. No difference in power or idle or sound of engine and it charges just fine never have problems other than it hates cold starts
Was your car ever in an accident? If the Airbags have ever deployed, the SRS computer might need to be replaced. I would check the front seat seat belt buckle switches. There could also be an open wire in the steering wheel clock spring which is what allows continuous power to flow to the airbag squib and steering wheel controls when you turn the steering wheel. I'd take it to a shop and have them run a scan for DTC's before I through parts at it. The worst that can happen, I think, is that since the SRS light is on, that means that the SRS system sees a problem, and that it has turned the system off until it gets fixed. Unfortunately, by off, I mean that the air bags WILL NOT deploy in a crash!!!
Joe P No, I have a video showing when I sold it. The newest owner replaced the engine and did a bunch of things besides paint. He is selling it for $4,500
You leave the other plugs in, and you turn the engine over 3-4 compression strokes. (Count the needle bounces) You also should hold open the throttle while cranking to insure you are getting in the most amount of air to compress! And don't forget to do both a wet and dry test to roughly tell if it's a ring or valve problem!
João Abrantes I think I may want to get new seats because to reupholster these will probably be just as much as new racing seats and that is one of my dream cars haha
I'm sorry to tell you this, but the 3000gt VR4 is smarter than you are! Those cars were so far ahead of their time you really had to be a factory trained technician to set them up right. Lucky for you, I was a factory trained Mitsu tech from that era. First of all, 3000 gt's cold started and ran rich as shit in order to get the cats up to operating temp ASAP. If you start it up cold and let it warm up over and over again without driving it at least 25 miles or for at least 30 mins the plugs foul out. Just moving them around on the dealership property would foul the plugs when they were brand new! The warranty fix for this was to replace the front 3 plugs with new ones and drive the hell out of the car, until the idle smoothed out, to burn off the back 3. YOU ABSOLUTELY WANT TO INSTALL THE NGK BPR5E PLATINUM PLUGS! I know they're expensive but necessary.Second, every time that you disconnect the battery, the ECU loses its memory and the settings for basic idle and base timing.This is why your engine idles at around 1100 RPM. The computer is pretty smart and it can make a guess of how to apply the timing advance curve, but if you really want her to pull like never before....then listen closely.Begin by cleaning the throttle body blade so that there isn't any carbon on it. Hold it open and wipe it with a cloth soaked with carb or brake cleaner then reattach the air snorkel. With the engine idling at operating temp (after the fans have come on once and turned back off), either plug in a scan tool to the diagnostic connector under the dash on the drivers side of the car, OR, connect a jumper wire from the ground pin in the same diag. conn to a chasis ground. THIS WILL PLACE THE ENGINE IN "BASIC IDLE MODE". If the engine stalls, or still registers above 500 rpm you need to adjust the idle air bypass screw located on top or the throttle body under that big rubber plug. Once that is set, and leaving the ground that you placed connected, look for a tan colored single pin dummy connector plug against the fire wall and behind the battery tray. It's a single wire pig tail asually taped to the main harness. Just pull the plug out and set it aside. What you have now is a pin directly connected to the ECU with a 5.0 VDC reference voltage on it. Connect one end of a jumper wire alligator clip to the Battery Neg clamp nut and touch the pin inside the single pin connector with the other end of the same jumper wire for a second. The engine might dip slightly. When everything is set and the grounds disconnected, the engine should idle warm at 750 rpm's + or - 100 rpm. THAT'S IT! CONGRADULATIONS YOUR CAR SHOULD RUN A WHOLE LOT BETTER NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!
Michael Carmalt can you help me on my 1992 vr4 please I have a misfire in the number 5 plug please help me
Michael Carmalt dudeeeeee I need so much of your help because my 3k hates hot starts with a passion
Hello, could use some help. I have a 1994 vr4 and it just fell on its face while driving I’m a college student and I have no idea what to do. The car idles rough but when I rev it to 2k it will die on me and and all of the gauges will rush go off. Please if you can text me at 262-501-4182. Thank you
Kyle Lee
Check your number 5 plug wire for small burn holes in the boot on the spark plugs end. Mitsus are notorious for a problem with their plug wires arcing out the side and grounding to the cylinder head.
Rueben.
Check your base timing.
To all of you preaching about low compression. This motor is turbo charged!!! Hello? It’s normal for a turbo engine to have slightly lower compression than a naturally aspirated one. Turbo boost causes excessive heat which causes detonation. Lowering the c/r lowers heat stresses AND increases volumetric efficiency due to the boost. I don’t see anything wrong with the compression at 120psi. Besides the pressure is just a guide and all 6 can vary +\- 10%.
I checked my compression on a NEW Rebuild 6G72 Twin Turbo VR4 Engine and I had 120psi on each cylindre in cold condition. I used the same gauges like you. It seems your compression is okay for this car.
Marcos Torrani
Hello Marcos. Thank you very much for the complimentary words. I have often thought about starting a mechanical TH-cam channel, but I don’t own a Mitsubishi! I’m happy to help people with these cars because well, they are just so technologically advanced! Don’t hesitate to hit me up if you ever have a question.
MAN,Im new to the vids on this vr4! I saw the vids from the last owner & now I see that you are putting in some work!!! I hope you rebuild that car & get it running as good as new or better!!! I figure, if you rebuild the motor, bore it out & rebuild the head & replace the valve stem seals(would possibly help fix the smoking) but, id rebuild the motor & upgrade the turbo's! I know by simply replacing your exhaust or downpipe, you will gain 15 hp... GOOD LUCK!!! IL BE WATCHING YOUR BUILD!!! AWESOME CAR & LOTS OF POTENTIAL!!!
would love to see this car restored to its full glory :) subbed
Thanks for the sub & for watching! I am trying to fix it up little by little.
good luck!!
Hello. I checked the compression on a NEW Rebuild 6G72 Twin Turbo VR4 Engine and I had 120psi on each cylindre in cold condition. I used the same gauges like you. It seems your compression is okay for this car.
Really glad that you've found out the problem !
Compression problem, mean need to replace the pistons or replace the cylinder block ?
whoa I think it will take a long time to fully restore this car. Goodluck m8
Muzaki I would have to tear down the engine to rebuild it because that is just way too low for this engine. It will take a long time and thanks!
That car has a 1/4 of a million miles on it and a very questionable service history. Those results are to be expected. I'd say as long as it keeps going and runs decent who cares. So far you have done a phenomenal job of slowly brining this car back. Keep up the good work!
DIY Dan Yeah it is still a beast on the street even with the lack of care throughout its life
This sad car has had NO service in its history. Sad car. SAD!
Hope u fix the beast must be back to the road , Subbed
SMS570X Thanks for the sub! I want to get it on the road asap
Thanks for the video, it help in also determining which tester I shouldn't buy.
i subbed man. i wanna see the progress. good luck bro
Quino Rodriguez Thanks for the sub! I appreciate it.
Valve seals was a common problem with the 3.0 at a 100k right along 225k if you was planning a rebuilding the top . I would suggest IMO to rebuild the bottom . Because the Rods & Mains will be the next to go from stress due to compression boost. Great vid & car 💯😎
just 4 kicks If I kept the car I would have. Would have been a great video series on rebuilding the engine
Jursaw it just needed to much !! Nickel and dimed you to death .Lol I sold my 2 dodge stealth's & girl hit me & totaled my VR4 spider that hurt . Had my fill !! but them cars are climbing up in Value.
Keep up the good videos bro, subbed for sure. Lets get that beast on the streets again
Micha01el Thanks for the sub and for watching! That is my goal!
I have a dodge stealth low compression what should i do
I knew that poor thing had blown compression from the first moment you had it fired in the picking-it-up video.
Love the content bro! Keep it up!
ramdomguy321 Thanks for watching!
I love the quality of your videos :)
Thank you (:
best videos 3000gt out thr
dont rule out your maf sensor just yet... you still have testing to do. its too exspensive to throw parts at. hook a good scanner up to it and also black probe it with a multimeter
Bruce Allen Yeah I read that the car goes into limp mode when its unplugged so I have to test the sensor to make sure it is faulty
Jursaw basically the car starts running crazy yes there is more testing to be done but if the car doesn’t run weird when it’s unplugged that’s an indication that the maf is bad
Yo keep fixing I want to see if it goes from a piece to a beast Man great job
MrAlopez1989 I want to but money is tight specially when I have to rebuild this puppy!
Low compression could mean carbon in the valves or upper piston area since it has been siting around for ages before. Spraying some Subaru upper engine cleaner directly onto the valves and piston tops and letting it sit might help. Just a thought :)
killa12222 Thanks for the tip! I think I will have to rebuild this puppy though.
Jursaw, yeah probably. More fun to rebuild anyway!
I have never done a rebuild but I always like to take on a challenge! Just difficult with winter and no garage to work in.
Good luck! I'll be following closely :)
I think the car has no problems since it is turbocharged. checked my rebuild engine with 20k miles and had 120psi on all cylindres. Car made 350AWHP on the dyno at 13psi. runs great.
Good deal. The maf is still $$$ tho. Can get a new one and a cold air intake at the same time. Glad you figured it out. Motor still needs a rebuild I bet.
barry k. Yeah the sensor isn't cheap but It will need a rebuild.
I had a thought that the maf might not be bad since the engine is burning oil and running so bad the computer is trying to adjust to make it run better. Wow... you sure got a TH-camr nightmare car. What about a junk yard motor? You can put the shiny intake manifold and valve covers on it. What a money pit.
barry k. That could be it as well, I probably got one of the worst cars out there haha Hard to find a junkyard engine around here. The regular non turbo 6g72 has high compression pistons and I think different cam lift or something along those lines. I would have to look more into it.
it only cost him 1,000 grand so stfu u damn honda ricer!
nothing wrong with compression. I you would check Auto Data you would know this engines have lower compression than 11 bars. something around 8 bars as i remember .
The non turbo ones are supposed to have higher compression then the turbo engines. I won't rebuild it unless I have to
Could you just remove the bad pistons and drive with fewer ones? It would indeed reduce the power, but maybe the fuel economy would improve. I read about a guy doing that in a Fiat 127.
That wouldn't work here. At that point, I could rebuild the engine
Hey bud i dont think with your maf sensor going bad is going to guve you that terrible of compression in your 135 cylinders
Was the test done on a warm engine or a cold one?
Jurassic Tech I believe it was cold because I don’t like pulling plugs on aluminum heads when warm
Jursaw cold will affect the readings needs to be done warm I believe.
Wonder if a 4g63T swap might be more viable :P
I'd probably like it more but the wire harness and swap will probably be super pricey!
Jursaw V8 RWD is always the answer
Not when this car's engine is transverse haha
*****
Nothing some fabrication can't solve lol
If only I had a garage! Hate working out in the cold
Beo I have 110 on all cylinders on my 4.3 s10 with 295000 miles and it still idles smooth but it runs so rich.
Hello. I checked the compression on a NEW Rebuild 6G72 Twin Turbo VR4 Engine and I had 120psi on each cylindre in cold condition. I used the same gauges like you. It seems your compression is okay for this car.
I could have told you that I'm surprised the last guy didn't change it since the mouse was living directly against it he was sitting on top of the filter probably sleep against the maf and probably pissed all over it and stuff and the amount of trash and feces that was on the air filter I would have changed it with the filter
Yeah that is a good possibility! Rodents sure do cause a lot of damage.
Hey bro wats was the problem?
Im curious man hope u get it fixed i have subed
Thanks! Should have more videos up soon
If i knew how to send pics through here i would send you a pic of mine this summer im taking the heads off rebuilding those and putting 2 1/2 inch obxr long pipe open headers on it full exhaust new calipers and breaks and possibly swap the antilog gauges with some digitals just so i can see what its exactly doing. But im having a problem right now. Its jumping up to 14 volts and my coolant light park break and batery light come on but pulsates then drops volts and they turn off. I havent dug into it yet bc its freezing but yeah. Any one have any suggestion? Oh and it runs fine. No difference in power or idle or sound of engine and it charges just fine never have problems other than it hates cold starts
Other then in the summer starts up with no problem just when its cold it takes a few time to get her to kick over
How much would you sell the vr4 for
$2k and it is yours haha
Want to see the progress
Gonzalo G Trujillo I have more videos on my channel and more coming soon!
Just subscribed bro, help me rebuild my base 96, for starters my srs light is on pain in the ass any suggestions??
Was your car ever in an accident? If the Airbags have ever deployed, the SRS computer might need to be replaced. I would check the front seat seat belt buckle switches. There could also be an open wire in the steering wheel clock spring which is what allows continuous power to flow to the airbag squib and steering wheel controls when you turn the steering wheel. I'd take it to a shop and have them run a scan for DTC's before I through parts at it.
The worst that can happen, I think, is that since the SRS light is on, that means that the SRS system sees a problem, and that it has turned the system off until it gets fixed. Unfortunately, by off, I mean that the air bags WILL NOT deploy in a crash!!!
You still have the car?
Joe P No, I have a video showing when I sold it. The newest owner replaced the engine and did a bunch of things besides paint. He is selling it for $4,500
@@Jursaw oh ok cool. Did he post videos too?
Joe P unfortunately not
My first car will be a 3000GT, if I buy it broken I'll have it fixed, if I buy it in good condition well it will be a miracle
Yamil Montes haha just make sure you have another daily driver
You neede to take out all spark plugs when doing a compression test...wtf think about the other cylinders...they are building pressure with no relief
that's what exhaust valves are for...they don't build up pressure and can't relieve it
he is doing the compression test just fine
What the fuck
You leave the other plugs in, and you turn the engine over 3-4 compression strokes. (Count the needle bounces) You also should hold open the throttle while cranking to insure you are getting in the most amount of air to compress! And don't forget to do both a wet and dry test to roughly tell if it's a ring or valve problem!
LS swap it !
make another video to see the progress in the car but think to bui a fuking toyota supra xD
João Abrantes I think I may want to get new seats because to reupholster these will probably be just as much as new racing seats and that is one of my dream cars haha
me too friend i whant sow mutch have a supra but good luck to your project car ;)
João Abrantes Thanks!
Why not throw in a new engine lol
Vulk Jdm This one runs fine and has plenty of power