My 3D Printed Transparent SNES Controller is a Clear Upgrade!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ธ.ค. 2024
- I recently traveled Japan and after playing some arcades I knew that I had to get back to a bit of retro gaming and bought myself a SNES classic mini. For a unique gaming experience I just had to get myself a transparent game pad but those can't be purchased. That's why I made one my own by 3D scanning the stock grey controller, and than 3D printed it using transparent resin.
The scanning process required a reference frame that I made by brazing aluminum profiles together.
💚 Support me 💚
Patreon: / cnckitchen
Join as a TH-cam member!
Original CNC Kitchen Threaded Inserts: geni.us/CNCKIn...
Merch: teespring.com/...
Buy an Original Prusa i3 printer: geni.us/CNCKPrusa
PayPal: www.paypal.me/...
Shop at Matterhackers(US): www.matterhacke...
Shop at 3DJake(EU): geni.us/zHvnB
🎙Check out my PODCAST with Tom Sanladerer
/ @themeltzone
GOM Atos Core (3D Scanner): www.gom.com/me...
SNES Classic Mini(aff): geni.us/cXgyZ
Aluminum Solder(aff): geni.us/pvbSC0
Anycubic clear resin(aff): geni.us/PNbji
Affordable resin printer - Elegoo Mars(aff): geni.us/3H0WAk
⚙ My gear (Affiliate Links):
🎥 CAMERAS & LENSES
Panasonic GH5 - Professional 4k60 camera: geni.us/LMN0CmS
Panasonic GX80/GX85 - Great value system camera: geni.us/M2Sm
10-25mm f1.4 - Awesome Lense: geni.us/ZTBH
30mm f2.8 macro - Great Macro Lense: geni.us/vEwqD
12-35mm f2.6 - Great allround lense: geni.us/S9GOsr
14-140mm f3.5-5.6 - My go-to travel lense: geni.us/fSAyKo
25mm f1.4 - Nice prime for photoraphy: geni.us/mqWM
🎙AUDIO
Rode Video Mic Pro - Shotgun mic: geni.us/6JFRdJ
Rode Film Maker Kit - Wireless mic: geni.us/XMD2N
Rode NT-USB - Studio Mic: geni.us/YVONvy
🔴 LIVE STREAMING
Elgatoo Stream Deck: geni.us/ppIiAL
Elgatoo HDMI USB Capture Card: geni.us/imhD
Logitech C920 - Overhead camera: geni.us/ViVgB
🏆 Do you want to help me cover my running costs? Send me a dollar or two over PayPal, it helps me a lot!
www.paypal.me/...
🌼 Even watching the ads before my videos helps me a lot!
Follow me on Twitter: / cnc_kitchen
DISCLAIMER: This video was sponsored by NordVPN.
Feel free to share the video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter and other social media!
Wow, that was a super accurate scan!
Glad you enjoyed your trip over here in Japan.
Ui 😅 too bad that I'm currently far away from the office.
Do you have a link to your scanned controller STL? Thanks!
12:42 looks like that this result could be achieved with transparent filaments too? (like PETG for example)
My apologies if it was already mentioned, but I think you can turn off design history capture in Fusion 360, convert the mesh into a BREP, then do boolean operations as much as you wish. I've altered one of Prusa's STLs in this fashion.
I liked the "Copied in Germany" haha very awesome video as always!
China left the chat.
It was all fun and games until I realized the GOM Atos Core costs more than $33,000. That's like using a Stratasys to print a fan duct for your Ender lol.
I still want one. Not that I have enough use to make it worthwhile.
I've used a $350k Stratasys FDM to print a part for my flashforge creator pro before :P
Would be neat to see this process done with a more reasonable prosumer level scanner, and not one that has a base model of 25,000 euros. Most people are not going to be buying a scanner that costs as much as a car, so this becomes way less accessible. Curious how other scanners or photogrammetry applications hold up. If only there were a TH-cam channel out there that likes to compare and analyze things ;)
They are mostly bad tbh...
"Copied in Germany"
That's the most impressive 3D scan I've ever seen!
Thanks!
I knew 3D scanners were accurate but not THAT accurate. It's seriously stunning.
It's something like $40,000 so it should do a pretty good job!
@@stevec7596 oh wow nvm
It actually starts at around $20k 😉
@@CNCKitchen Says on their site it's 25,000 EUR * ? Isn't that more like $27k USD?
Are the scans available to download anywhere? Amazing quality!
I don't know about the machine you use but Anycubic updates their firmware to support Anti-Aliasing which might help improve surface quality.
Oooooooohhhh thanks for the tip my dude!
I'd recommend chitubox tho, also includes up to 8x antialiasing.
awesome, didn't know that!
That 3D scanner is crazy. Also the price is even crazier.
Curious, what is the price?
@@matthewwilson4592 too much!
@@matthewwilson4592 the price on a site called Capture3D lists one at $33,450 before taxes and shipping for the most basic one they offer (Atos Core 45). The most advanced one... they don't say. Probably one of those "if you need to ask you can't afford one" type of things.
I laughed out loud from "Copied In Germany"
#metoo :D
I don't know if it is true, but I have read that soldering (using brazing rods) to join aluminium can not only weaken the tensile strength of the aluminum due to the effects of the heating and cooling, (Especially when you are not using strict temperature control measures, and just blasting it with a torch.) but also can create joints that are in fact weaker than using an epoxy made for joining metals (such as JB Weld). I know that it doesn't matter in this particular instance where the overall strength is not important, but it is an interesting subject none the less.
Hi Stefan, amazing video you have made. Is there also a possibility that we can download the stl file for the gamepad as well?
Been to that exact store in Japan. Its a must for anyone who’s into retro gaming.
Back in the day I used to work for Nintendo, in the repair dept, so taking Gameboys and Snes apart never gets old for me. Now a-days Ibuild Gameboy zeros,
, in reproduction cases, all my GB and Snes games in one place and on one memory card. No swapping carts etc.
You can cut a mesh with a solid in fusion, you just have to convert to b-rep first.
A b-rep of this model would make you PC go up in flames...6 million triangles...
Video idea: Build a 3D printed game system with a RasPi4.
6:56 you can see it actually picked up the stickers as part of the 3d scan
@CNC kitchen. You could've done edits in Fusion by disabling timeline from bottom right corner and changing mesh by right clicking it from list at left and doing was it convert to Brep or something like that. Then you can draw "normal" parts and use them to carve original bodies. I hope I remember correctly. Just to save you some time possibly in future
Are the files available for download anywhere?
Would at least be a little cautious with releasing them. There's at least the Nintendo Logo in the model that is trademarked and Nintendo is known to send letters to whoever they think infringe on their rights, even small TH-cam channels. A 3D model isn't a physical product yet but they for example stopped a clone controller based on trademarked design very recently, see 8bitdo snes30
I'm unfortunately hesitant to release them due to copyright issues 😅
True
Props for the cutting, the streetview clip got me ;)
freeCAD you can also do boolean. Import stl -> convert to mesh -> convert to solid -> cut anything out with simple shapes
You can subtract bodies in Fusion360. Go to Create>Merge Bodies and when the window opens you select the bodies and instead of using the join option in the little square box you select the cut feature in the drop down menu.
Yes... for a 3D solid body. Unfortunately, an STL is a surface body (polygonal mesh). Fusion 360 is primarily a solid modeler. It does support some mesh editing, but not boolean (well, there is a 'Merge', but that's all). For the most part, mesh editing is best done in a proper mesh app. Just sayin' :)
Oh OK. Interesting. Didnt know that. Thanks for the anwser.
Your scan looks amazing.
transparent controller shells are such a cool idea. I wish I could find them for sale. You're not selling them, are you?
If my memory from chemistry class serves me well, when heating up an object (such as @4:30) you should use just beyond the tip of the blue flame as anything within it is known as the dark zone which is where there is/can be unburnt fuel as it hasn't got the full fuel to air mixture to make it as hot as it can be. So don't press it down onto the object to splay the flame out.
SLA printing really is quite amazing. The amount of detail that can be achieved is only limited by the resolution of the LCD.
I print (advanced level) with SLAs. If you want a super clean/clear finish don't wash your print with IPA. Put the piece in a dark/warm (60C to 80C) chamber, and let the excess drip off. Then cure it. You could spray/coat as you showed, but in my experience, it won't be as good.
That scanner was amazing! Good job overall !!
That unsightly gap at the witness line could had been cleared up by extruding more material to sacrifice with sanding. Could had even made lines where to stop sanding, and it would had done a fine job at making that seam almost disappear with enough hand work or some time mounting it into a CNC machine for sanding with a custom profile to scrape off the extra material.
Don't all uv-curable resins turn yellow after curing ? I've only used the elegoo transparant resin on their mars msla printer, and the prints always turn yellow after curing .. I was under the impression this was due to the compound that makes it uv-curable, and is thus unavoidable with this tech .. ?
Bob Thiry All resin printers use uv to cure every resin.
Ah. Resin. I was curious how you managed to 3d print something with that level of transparency...
Impressive result in any event...
Well done. I respect the time and effort you put in to this.
I think you can do the boolean thing in fusion using combine and select cut instead of join
Its really cool to see this. I've been wanting to do the same kind of project for a controller that has been out of production for over 15 years at this point (and is highly unlikely to ever see another print) but access to a 3d scanner is... well not available. Maybe one day I'll get the ability to print it.
have you ever tried adding dye to the resin?
One thing you could do to make the two parts lineup better would be in fusion extended the length of the lip where they join and sand it flat on some glass until it's all level and correct thickness
Hello, watching this over a year later!
I was trying to find the time in the video or a comment about it, but my internet is too screwy. What is the reason you rotated the controller pieces 45 degrees for scaffolding instead of placing them flat side down or open side down and having much less scaffolding for the hollow inside?
You should upload those scans. I want to print out a SNES controller faceplate that fits the Switch SNES controller but allows the usage of original buttons and rubbers (the ones Nintendo put on the new ones suck).
Could you explain why resin prints are done at 45 degrees?
It wouldn't fit flat, also probably to reduce that stair-stepping effect
In this case, the print are was to small so I had to tilt it. For other objects, you want to minimize the exposed are per layer to reduce the forces while the print is peeled away from the FEP sheet.
Man I need a 3D scanner like that!
I had a really great project in mind and photogrammetry just did not work good enough.
So the only reason that most of resin prints is with 45 degrees rotation is in order to fit the printer?
That rotation wouldn't create steps in the normal smooth layer?
In this case, the print area are was too small so I had to tilt it. For other objects, you want to minimize the exposed are per layer to reduce the forces while the print is peeled away from the FEP sheet.
you can now sell funtastic colored SNES controller shells :)
8:00 I thought substracting 2 bodies from each other was easy by using "combine" feature, was it not?
Another great video, thank you. What!? You had video games when you were a kid?! All I had growing up in the 50/60's was a cardboard box to sit in to slide down the stairs of our second story apartment. Drove my mother crazy.
Any plans on releasing the STL for the people that have access to a good enough printer but not the scanner? :)
The SNES Classic controller shell is not compatible with the original controller. :(
Yeah, I took mine apart and did a comparison with a Super Famicom controller, and it was... Similar, but certainly not identical.
What was more interesting was he fact that I also have the Wii Classic SNES themed controller you could get off Club Nintendo a while ago.
And even though functionally speaking that's near identical to the ones that come with the SNES mini...
The actual construction is somewhat different, and that one comes closer to the old school controllers...
@@KuraIthys Yeah. On launch day in 2017 (almost exactly 2 years ago) I tried to do a board swap and it was a no-go. :( NES Classic Editions controllers will board-swap with original NES controllers just fine.
The earliest SNES controllers have L & R printed on the shoulder buttons and have no reinforcement rib between the cable winding posts. They revised it with the rib before they stopped printing L & R. They stopped printing L & R in 1993 or earlier but they are still textured on the buttons. They also stopped printing "Eject" on the console and started molding it. No doubt, they were trying to save costs. In 1997 they switched to on with a Nintendo logo instead of the console name so that they could use the same shell in Japan and the rest of the world. Indeed, the back shell even had both the SNES and SFC emblems thought the button shapes and colors were still different in each region. Brazil did get a hold version of that controller though I doubt anything else changed.
Because the SNES CE could had to copy the "classic" design they couldn't get away with the 1997 design and had to pay extra for printing different faces but they still found other ways to make it cheaper, like getting rid of the metal pivot pins from the L & R buttons. They now pivots on plastic nubs molded into the buttons, which could not be as thing as the originals so the receiving holes had to be wider. Regardless, I can't figure out why they changed the PCB and mounting holes just enough that they don't fit. That seems unnecessary. :(
I wonder if you could have printed with clear PETG and then coated the pieces in XTC-3D (Smooth-On)? I've seen models look clear if both sides were coated.
Probably not. It's very hard to make FDM prints really transparent if they're not just simple vases.
Is it possible to share the copy files so the community can print ourselves?
Could you do some tests for making the printed resin more clear? I'm very interested in cpear resind 3D printing.
Hi Stefan! I congrated you for you 20k subs; and I tell you what: This was your most epic video yet! Keep crushing it, mate!!! Awesome work!
Why didn't you print that jig? Why did it need to be metal?
Nice work! Do you think you would get the same nice results when using FDM instead of a resin printer?
Hey Stefan, what type of microscope do you use?
Excellent video and demonstration of the scanner. Pretty cool results. Thanks for the pointer to Microsoft 3D Builder.
That's an amazing scan
Awesome. Time to get a 3d scanner.
www.ebay.com/itm/GOM-ATOS-III-Triple-Blue-Light-Scanner-w-Photogrammetry/223605868522?hash=item340ff2c7ea:g:z5wAAOSwPMpdQLI3
which scanner you used in this video?
I like that the resin has a slight yellowish tint so even though its a newly made part it looks like its from the 90s
Awesome video! I follow you because of your... rigorous testing methods and science based advice, but even this little "I liked this as a child so let's do it" (which is more similar to what other youtubers do) was just so informative, rigorous and entertaining. Well done sir!
Thank you!
I liked the extra tips on making the frame for 3D scanning and using the Microsoft 3D builder. I'll have try these out on my next photogrammetry project!
Hey, weißt du was der Scanner kostest? 🤔
Super nice! Love the Nintendo: Anyhow in Fusion360 you can convert a mesh in BRep and then treat it as a solid body so you could subtract 2 bodies. Love your videos!
I think the problem will be the quantity of points. I think fusion 360 only converts until 200.000 points or so. And you can really get there fast with round shapes.
@@sir_tomtom yes but then you can reduce it to make it easier to work. There is a function called reduce or something like that.
Very very cool dude!!! How is the strength of resin prints compared to something like carbon fiber PETG?
is the file for sale? and what would the cost be for an n64 shell too?
Nice! Why is the print at a 45 degree angle? What would happen if you printed it flat, which would reduce the number of layers?
The buildplatform is unfortunately too small to fit it flat. But it's pretty common to do it that way when printing with resin ;)
In this case, the print are was to small so I had to tilt it. For other objects, you want to minimize the exposed are per layer to reduce the forces while the print is peeled away from the FEP sheet.
@@CNCKitchen Didn't knew that, thx for the explanation :)
Does the structure light scanner not work in sunlight?
The darker the better. Direct sunlight might cause you some issues so at least some shade is advisable.
nice job.
I don't have experience about resin printers,but if after the print the resin can be grind with sandpaper for smooth surface ( and breaking peaks)and after polish with buffing for clear transparency.Here is from me your mistake.The spray is not the better solution for finish ...
What software is this?
Very good video Stefan!
Awesome way to showcase the precision of GOM scanners.
Liked.
Thanks . Unfortunately it's going back home tomorrow.
Hi! I've thought that you'll model this case. Is it so hard to do in this case? The result looks cool anyway! But I've didn't started to 3d scan it, only if somebody asked me to show how good is this 3d scanner :) IMHO it's way to cumbersome to post process the cloud versus to model it from scratch.
Hi CNC Kitchen, I love the videos and with this one I'm wondering the best way to process the part post printing? Or in other words, how to minimize the support removal marks on a 'clear' build? I've printed the Null2 case files with a resin printer in clear and so far the front part I have processed looks, well, not like your halves do!
Hey Steffan, wär es möglich die STL dateien frei zu geben? will mir auch gerne ein paar cases drucken für meine Controller.
Do your Patreons get acces to the STL files in this vid?
Hi Stephan... Du hättest dir den Rahmen mit referenzpunkten auch sparen können. Punke auf dem drehteller und wenige Punkte auf dem Objekt reichen meistens für ein Match der STL Flächen... Die GOM software unterstützt außerdem das Matchen der Flächen anhand der 3D Kontur... Die Referenzpunkten dienen der Software letztendlich nur zur Orientierung und erhöhen die Genauigkeit des Systems... Wenn du nicht gerade im Hundertstelbereich messen musst reicht das Matchen anhand der Oberfläche oft aus.
Da hast Du wohl recht.
Really great video! More 3d scanning would be great.
That was excellently awesome! Any chace of sharing the STL? Never hurts to ask right? I'll give you an email to send to if that helps!
So, there is a way to do boolean subtracts on mesh bodies in Fusion 360, it just involves converting the mesh body into a component first. The risk here is that you have to balance detail lost with number of faces as Fusion 360 gets bogged down tremendously by components with too many faces :\
Please provide the scaning filés!
Awesome video. I've been wanting to do something very similar with photogrammetry and a Game Boy case. If you could dive even further into this topic I would definitely be eager to see what you make of it.
Would you kindly share the snes controller ftls? I recently cracked mine and i want to resin print it
Just send me an email.
I still have my 30 years old Amiga 1200 fully upgraded with an original Blizzard MK4 32 mbytes ram, 16 mbytes VGA Indivision AGA videocard, 40 gbytes hdd with OS 3.9 and more than 4000 Arcade Amiga games all running from the Hdd, And a special 1.88 mbytes 3.5 floppy drive. All in mint condition, no yellow plastic, except for the brick PSU.
Very nice work after the scan ! thanks for sharing your method.
Thank you for making this. I only wish photogrammetry were caught up to this or these fancy scanners became more affordable. I guess we have to wait for light fields to become viable for scanning fine geometry.
I might try make custom clear Steam Deck shells using this method aswell
Are you going to make these files available?
I don't know if this is a change since the video went up, but you certainly can subtract objects from each other in fusion360. It's in the combine function.
Why put the model in 45 angle to print?
Why do you need to print the part Crosswise?
In this case, the print are was to small so I had to tilt it. For other objects, you want to minimize the exposed are per layer to reduce the forces while the print is peeled away from the FEP sheet.
Excellent video. Very entertaining.
I found a new SNES controller with a clear face for US$40, though I don't think that would work on the retro SNES. 8Bitdo SN30 transparent edition.
This has other uses though, this is a nice walk-through of the process.
7:00 damn thats awesome
Awesome video man! Keep up the good work! Very nostalgic feelings seeing your video. The first video I saw here was your 3D printed PLA Moka. Is it still functional? I want to make one out of PETG and a food safe steel. Good work!
Next time you visit Japan you can get a portable Hotspot. They can be rented at the airport and give you internet right from your pocket.
It would be an interesting experiment to take an object and scan and print from it, then scan and print the print and so on. Seeing how the print degrades over repeated scans would be interesting.
Ok, but what is a conrtoller?
Postcentral gyrus of the SNES.
Clear coat! Wow! I think I need to try it with FDM prints using clear filament to see if it will work with that too...
Tried it. Didn't look nice and also the resolution is a limiting factor.
Do you know if it is possible to achieve something similar with Agisoft PhotoScan Pro? Thanks for sharing.
"MOD. CLV-202"
"COPIED IN GERMANY".....Love that little Easter Egg!!!!
Diese Begrüßung und das "Auf Wiedersehen" 👌😂
Super Potato is basically Mecca for retro gaming. When I eventually make my pilgrimage to Japan, I'm going to spend way too much of the trip in Akihabara. 😂
Worth it!