My 3D Printed Transparent SNES Controller is a Clear Upgrade!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2019
- I recently traveled Japan and after playing some arcades I knew that I had to get back to a bit of retro gaming and bought myself a SNES classic mini. For a unique gaming experience I just had to get myself a transparent game pad but those can't be purchased. That's why I made one my own by 3D scanning the stock grey controller, and than 3D printed it using transparent resin.
The scanning process required a reference frame that I made by brazing aluminum profiles together.
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Wow, that was a super accurate scan!
Glad you enjoyed your trip over here in Japan.
Ui 😅 too bad that I'm currently far away from the office.
Do you have a link to your scanned controller STL? Thanks!
12:42 looks like that this result could be achieved with transparent filaments too? (like PETG for example)
My apologies if it was already mentioned, but I think you can turn off design history capture in Fusion 360, convert the mesh into a BREP, then do boolean operations as much as you wish. I've altered one of Prusa's STLs in this fashion.
I liked the "Copied in Germany" haha very awesome video as always!
China left the chat.
It was all fun and games until I realized the GOM Atos Core costs more than $33,000. That's like using a Stratasys to print a fan duct for your Ender lol.
I still want one. Not that I have enough use to make it worthwhile.
I've used a $350k Stratasys FDM to print a part for my flashforge creator pro before :P
That's the most impressive 3D scan I've ever seen!
Thanks!
Would be neat to see this process done with a more reasonable prosumer level scanner, and not one that has a base model of 25,000 euros. Most people are not going to be buying a scanner that costs as much as a car, so this becomes way less accessible. Curious how other scanners or photogrammetry applications hold up. If only there were a TH-cam channel out there that likes to compare and analyze things ;)
They are mostly bad tbh...
I knew 3D scanners were accurate but not THAT accurate. It's seriously stunning.
It's something like $40,000 so it should do a pretty good job!
@@stevec7596 oh wow nvm
It actually starts at around $20k 😉
@@CNCKitchen Says on their site it's 25,000 EUR * ? Isn't that more like $27k USD?
"Copied in Germany"
That 3D scanner is crazy. Also the price is even crazier.
Curious, what is the price?
@@matthewwilson4592 too much!
@@matthewwilson4592 the price on a site called Capture3D lists one at $33,450 before taxes and shipping for the most basic one they offer (Atos Core 45). The most advanced one... they don't say. Probably one of those "if you need to ask you can't afford one" type of things.
Been to that exact store in Japan. Its a must for anyone who’s into retro gaming.
Back in the day I used to work for Nintendo, in the repair dept, so taking Gameboys and Snes apart never gets old for me. Now a-days Ibuild Gameboy zeros,
, in reproduction cases, all my GB and Snes games in one place and on one memory card. No swapping carts etc.
I laughed out loud from "Copied In Germany"
#metoo :D
That scanner was amazing! Good job overall !!
I don't know about the machine you use but Anycubic updates their firmware to support Anti-Aliasing which might help improve surface quality.
Oooooooohhhh thanks for the tip my dude!
I'd recommend chitubox tho, also includes up to 8x antialiasing.
awesome, didn't know that!
Very nice work after the scan ! thanks for sharing your method.
Props for the cutting, the streetview clip got me ;)
Hi Stefan! I congrated you for you 20k subs; and I tell you what: This was your most epic video yet! Keep crushing it, mate!!! Awesome work!
Well done. I respect the time and effort you put in to this.
Excellent video and demonstration of the scanner. Pretty cool results. Thanks for the pointer to Microsoft 3D Builder.
Awesome project man!! I've always loved the clear cases myself, brings back some find memories. 😃
Another great video, thank you. What!? You had video games when you were a kid?! All I had growing up in the 50/60's was a cardboard box to sit in to slide down the stairs of our second story apartment. Drove my mother crazy.
freeCAD you can also do boolean. Import stl -> convert to mesh -> convert to solid -> cut anything out with simple shapes
Your scan looks amazing.
Are the scans available to download anywhere? Amazing quality!
Very good video Stefan!
Awesome way to showcase the precision of GOM scanners.
Liked.
Thanks . Unfortunately it's going back home tomorrow.
I liked the extra tips on making the frame for 3D scanning and using the Microsoft 3D builder. I'll have try these out on my next photogrammetry project!
Awesome video! I follow you because of your... rigorous testing methods and science based advice, but even this little "I liked this as a child so let's do it" (which is more similar to what other youtubers do) was just so informative, rigorous and entertaining. Well done sir!
Thank you!
SLA printing really is quite amazing. The amount of detail that can be achieved is only limited by the resolution of the LCD.
@CNC kitchen. You could've done edits in Fusion by disabling timeline from bottom right corner and changing mesh by right clicking it from list at left and doing was it convert to Brep or something like that. Then you can draw "normal" parts and use them to carve original bodies. I hope I remember correctly. Just to save you some time possibly in future
I don't know if it is true, but I have read that soldering (using brazing rods) to join aluminium can not only weaken the tensile strength of the aluminum due to the effects of the heating and cooling, (Especially when you are not using strict temperature control measures, and just blasting it with a torch.) but also can create joints that are in fact weaker than using an epoxy made for joining metals (such as JB Weld). I know that it doesn't matter in this particular instance where the overall strength is not important, but it is an interesting subject none the less.
awesome since i was waiting for a review of this kind thanks!
Awesome video. I've been wanting to do something very similar with photogrammetry and a Game Boy case. If you could dive even further into this topic I would definitely be eager to see what you make of it.
Great video! Looks like your trip to Japan was awesome. I hope there’s going to be more about the trip in upcoming video(s)?
That's an amazing scan
Awesome video man! Keep up the good work! Very nostalgic feelings seeing your video. The first video I saw here was your 3D printed PLA Moka. Is it still functional? I want to make one out of PETG and a food safe steel. Good work!
Its really cool to see this. I've been wanting to do the same kind of project for a controller that has been out of production for over 15 years at this point (and is highly unlikely to ever see another print) but access to a 3d scanner is... well not available. Maybe one day I'll get the ability to print it.
Super nice! Love the Nintendo: Anyhow in Fusion360 you can convert a mesh in BRep and then treat it as a solid body so you could subtract 2 bodies. Love your videos!
I think the problem will be the quantity of points. I think fusion 360 only converts until 200.000 points or so. And you can really get there fast with round shapes.
@@sir_tomtom yes but then you can reduce it to make it easier to work. There is a function called reduce or something like that.
Cool project - the "Copied in Germany" is a nice touch 😁
I was really excited before you showed the 3d scanner, I was hoping you had some kind of diy structured light scanner with build instructions. Because I worked next to a PhD student for years who literally was building them (and designing the algorithms) I know it can be done - just haven't had the chance to really give it a shot.
Very cool effort and certainly looks sharp! :)
Really great video! More 3d scanning would be great.
I print (advanced level) with SLAs. If you want a super clean/clear finish don't wash your print with IPA. Put the piece in a dark/warm (60C to 80C) chamber, and let the excess drip off. Then cure it. You could spray/coat as you showed, but in my experience, it won't be as good.
I like that the resin has a slight yellowish tint so even though its a newly made part it looks like its from the 90s
One thing you could do to make the two parts lineup better would be in fusion extended the length of the lip where they join and sand it flat on some glass until it's all level and correct thickness
Wow, impressive scan and printouts 👍😀
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Asger Vestbjerg
How do you have a comment a day ago when the video is released 30 minutes ago?
I’m confused
Patreons usually get early access to the videos.
Dang! I need to become a Patron!
you can now sell funtastic colored SNES controller shells :)
Excellent video. Very entertaining.
Great video! Thanks for the great work
That controller really puts me back in time when I used to play games on the SNES with my mom :)
Aww :)
That unsightly gap at the witness line could had been cleared up by extruding more material to sacrifice with sanding. Could had even made lines where to stop sanding, and it would had done a fine job at making that seam almost disappear with enough hand work or some time mounting it into a CNC machine for sanding with a custom profile to scrape off the extra material.
Man I need a 3D scanner like that!
I had a really great project in mind and photogrammetry just did not work good enough.
You can subtract bodies in Fusion360. Go to Create>Merge Bodies and when the window opens you select the bodies and instead of using the join option in the little square box you select the cut feature in the drop down menu.
Yes... for a 3D solid body. Unfortunately, an STL is a surface body (polygonal mesh). Fusion 360 is primarily a solid modeler. It does support some mesh editing, but not boolean (well, there is a 'Merge', but that's all). For the most part, mesh editing is best done in a proper mesh app. Just sayin' :)
Oh OK. Interesting. Didnt know that. Thanks for the anwser.
You can cut a mesh with a solid in fusion, you just have to convert to b-rep first.
A b-rep of this model would make you PC go up in flames...6 million triangles...
Ah. Resin. I was curious how you managed to 3d print something with that level of transparency...
Impressive result in any event...
Hi Stefan, amazing video you have made. Is there also a possibility that we can download the stl file for the gamepad as well?
7:00 damn thats awesome
Great video! We recently bought a switch and I've been thinking of doing the same thing for the joycons. Luckily I have access to some really nice metrology scanners ;)
Nice!
@@CNCKitchen something you may want to try is slicing a scan that has holes in it....alot of people assume your model needs to be watertight, and it is simple enough to patch mesh holes, however I have had great success slicing models with small holes without any issues.
I’m glad you mentioned Microsoft‘a 3D builder. I find some things are just easier there but felt it was the 3D modeling equivalent of pounding a nail in with a rock. Lol. It’s limited but very straight forward.
nüsse! Glad you released this video *after* you got back. I played a few scrollers on the 1st gen but didn't get into Zelda and Metroid until emulators (save state). Short attentio
Awesome. Time to get a 3d scanner.
www.ebay.com/itm/GOM-ATOS-III-Triple-Blue-Light-Scanner-w-Photogrammetry/223605868522?hash=item340ff2c7ea:g:z5wAAOSwPMpdQLI3
6:56 you can see it actually picked up the stickers as part of the 3d scan
11:47 I see what you did there LOL
Thank you for making this. I only wish photogrammetry were caught up to this or these fancy scanners became more affordable. I guess we have to wait for light fields to become viable for scanning fine geometry.
Clear coat! Wow! I think I need to try it with FDM prints using clear filament to see if it will work with that too...
Tried it. Didn't look nice and also the resolution is a limiting factor.
I still have my 30 years old Amiga 1200 fully upgraded with an original Blizzard MK4 32 mbytes ram, 16 mbytes VGA Indivision AGA videocard, 40 gbytes hdd with OS 3.9 and more than 4000 Arcade Amiga games all running from the Hdd, And a special 1.88 mbytes 3.5 floppy drive. All in mint condition, no yellow plastic, except for the brick PSU.
If my memory from chemistry class serves me well, when heating up an object (such as @4:30) you should use just beyond the tip of the blue flame as anything within it is known as the dark zone which is where there is/can be unburnt fuel as it hasn't got the full fuel to air mixture to make it as hot as it can be. So don't press it down onto the object to splay the flame out.
I love this! Great channel!
Very Nice !
Video idea: Build a 3D printed game system with a RasPi4.
"MOD. CLV-202"
"COPIED IN GERMANY".....Love that little Easter Egg!!!!
Super Potato is basically Mecca for retro gaming. When I eventually make my pilgrimage to Japan, I'm going to spend way too much of the trip in Akihabara. 😂
Worth it!
Diese Begrüßung und das "Auf Wiedersehen" 👌😂
WOW, as always! Impressive effort:) And an impressive (& expensive) scanner - but hey that's what it takes, sometimes. Also, I know (and appreciate) that you do things for a challenge, so buying a clear controller off eBay was out of the question!:) Or, are those prohibitively expensive, or simply not available? Whatever the case, thx for sharing.
I might try make custom clear Steam Deck shells using this method aswell
Hi CNC Kitchen, I love the videos and with this one I'm wondering the best way to process the part post printing? Or in other words, how to minimize the support removal marks on a 'clear' build? I've printed the Null2 case files with a resin printer in clear and so far the front part I have processed looks, well, not like your halves do!
OMG I want that scanner so bad now 😭🤧
It would be an interesting experiment to take an object and scan and print from it, then scan and print the print and so on. Seeing how the print degrades over repeated scans would be interesting.
I think you can do the boolean thing in fusion using combine and select cut instead of join
I did'ent know 3d scanners could do that. Wow!
Impressive work. But I think a 'jungle green' or a 'grape purple' clear coat would be even nicer :D
I have some other nice resins, just didn't finish the prints in time.
Very cool! Now to get a $20k scanner to make an Intellivision and a Coleco controller!
nice job.
I don't have experience about resin printers,but if after the print the resin can be grind with sandpaper for smooth surface ( and breaking peaks)and after polish with buffing for clear transparency.Here is from me your mistake.The spray is not the better solution for finish ...
Super Potato is awesome!
You could have printed it the other way around, and that could massively reduce support usage, but, that could leave some scarring. Great content as always.
I remember switch the back of my iPhone 4s for a clear glass back. Definitely funny
You should upload those scans. I want to print out a SNES controller faceplate that fits the Switch SNES controller but allows the usage of original buttons and rubbers (the ones Nintendo put on the new ones suck).
Very very cool dude!!! How is the strength of resin prints compared to something like carbon fiber PETG?
Nice work! Do you think you would get the same nice results when using FDM instead of a resin printer?
Damn this is good sheet
I don't know if this is a change since the video went up, but you certainly can subtract objects from each other in fusion360. It's in the combine function.
I found a new SNES controller with a clear face for US$40, though I don't think that would work on the retro SNES. 8Bitdo SN30 transparent edition.
This has other uses though, this is a nice walk-through of the process.
Could you do some tests for making the printed resin more clear? I'm very interested in cpear resind 3D printing.
"Copied in Germany"
That's a nice touch
fantastic.. i would get clear plastic on every electronics
Next time you visit Japan you can get a portable Hotspot. They can be rented at the airport and give you internet right from your pocket.
Looks old even if it's brand new. That yellowish color is very cool
For booleans on meshes I mostly use blender, less complicated because it does both the modeling and boolean.
Sehr sehr nice Stefan :-D
Hello, watching this over a year later!
I was trying to find the time in the video or a comment about it, but my internet is too screwy. What is the reason you rotated the controller pieces 45 degrees for scaffolding instead of placing them flat side down or open side down and having much less scaffolding for the hollow inside?
my childhood console was a C64 years after its time, so the only fond memories are the music
Do you know if it is possible to achieve something similar with Agisoft PhotoScan Pro? Thanks for sharing.
I saw recently that Sega is going to release an all-in-one Genesis console with about 45 games. I'm tempted....
If it has @games (AtGames) anywhere on it, do NOT even go near it! Rerez shall tell you more about that. Go check out his review.
Are the files available for download anywhere?
Would at least be a little cautious with releasing them. There's at least the Nintendo Logo in the model that is trademarked and Nintendo is known to send letters to whoever they think infringe on their rights, even small TH-cam channels. A 3D model isn't a physical product yet but they for example stopped a clone controller based on trademarked design very recently, see 8bitdo snes30
I'm unfortunately hesitant to release them due to copyright issues 😅
True