One more great video of yours. You are truly my hero and boy would I wish I could be your apprentice 😉 I,m more and more getting confident of pulling my 993 engine one day thanks to your videos👍 Cheers from Mallorca🌅
Excellent series - thank you for publishing. Coupled with Wayne Dempsey's "How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines" I am ready to get going on a 3.2SS high compression twin plug build....best Porsche project videos on TH-cam by far, please keep producing content
Thanks for making the video, you sure know what your doing! Thanks for sharing. Do you have any info on the jack adaptor you have to sit the engine and box on?
Another great video I’m sure I will sometime need. For th time being I am enjoying my 3.2 Carrera but I am already watching all videos I can for when I need to , yours being the best on you tube I could find. Personally I would appreciate some videos on adjusting sway bars (installation is rather straight forward), meaning how it affects handling if you install thicker ones or (in my case, adjustable ones) what difference it makes when you modify tension on them. I have not seen much videos on it. Thanks for sharing
Authi, We plan to do a suspension video and discuss the exact points you mentioned. Thanks for watching and thanks for sharing what you would like to see. It really helps us with video production. Thanks Kurt
Hi Kurt, great workmanship. All your videos are excellent and very inspiring. Can you comment on the header wrap? I have read that it's no longer favored because the concentrated/confined heat destroys the tubing fairly quickly, and that ceramic coating the headers is a much better way to keep the heat inside the pipes - what is your take on this?
It depends on what your end goals are. In this instance we were more concerned with the heat coming off the pipes and being put into the engine oil cooler and oil pipes due to header pipe proximity. When using stock heat exchangers the air moving thru the heater boxes reduces the exhaust heat being radiated back into engine components. As far a exhaust pipe stress fracturing due to excessive heat retention, sure its possible. However over what time frame are we looking at? The system like ever other part on the car is a consumable and will always require routine repair and or replacement. As far as ceramic coating is concerned I like it, and we are using it in a lot of different coatings on different parts throughout the engine and vehicle as whole. I have used it on exhaust component's but not in an insulating capacity and dont really have any data on that function. Thanks Kurt
We replaced two belts on this one, the MFI pump drive belt located at the back of the motor. (This one is much easier to change while the motor is out). And the alternator drive belt and pulleys were changed on this one as well. Thanks for watching Kurt
Great content as always. Would like to know about the missing oil line to the injection pump. I'm assuming the pump is filled and capped. Is it challenging to change the oil on the pump and at what frequency?
Charles You are correct the pump is capped and filled, and yes to change the oil in the pump is not an easy thing. Porsche did this on their race cars to reduce some of the load on the lubrications system. It is not something I would recommend doing on a street car.
Kurt, can you please share lubrication points prior to mating the transmission to the engine? I know the throwout bearing and fork should get some grease. What about other points, and what type of lubricant? Thanks for your great videos.
Clutch release bearing arm contact points, Guide Sleeve, input shaft splines, and pilot bearing. I use a high-pressure wheel bearing grease and use it sparsely. Kurt
Some do have a gasket and some do not. It the axle has a steel cover over the joint then it does not use a gasket,. otherwise there is a small gasket that is applied to the stub axle coming out of the transaxle. Kurt
Lots of good tips in both the remove and install videos my favorite is the engine compartment seal I have to start paying more attention! Ideally do you want to use shielded wires for a twin plug 6 pin system? Or is that just not an option… I’m putting one together and have been wondering what is best ?
Daniel, If you are running a 6 pin CDI system on your twin plug then yes absolutely shielded plug wires are the way to go. Also make sure that the secondary resistance is correct. you are looking for 10,000 ohms per spark plug total with non resistor plugs. Where the resistance is located in the system is just as important as how much resistance you have. You need to have 6,000 between the coil and the cap, 1000 ohms at the cap where the wire comes in and 3000 ohms on the spark plug plug connector. If you stay from this it will result in coil and or CDI failure. Thanks for watching Kurt
One more great video of yours. You are truly my hero and boy would I wish I could be your apprentice 😉
I,m more and more getting confident of pulling my 993 engine one day thanks to your videos👍
Cheers from Mallorca🌅
Roger,
Thanks for your support.
Kurt
Very nice work. Thank you for taking the time to video and publish this.
Glad you enjoyed it! and your welcome.
Kurt
Kurt, excellent video as always.
Glad you enjoyed it
Kurt
Outstanding job!!! Always look forward to your videos.
Thanks again!
Kurt
Excellent series - thank you for publishing. Coupled with Wayne Dempsey's "How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines" I am ready to get going on a 3.2SS high compression twin plug build....best Porsche project videos on TH-cam by far, please keep producing content
Thanks Greg for your support, and yes we have a lot more to come.
Kurt
Thanks for making the video, you sure know what your doing! Thanks for sharing. Do you have any info on the jack adaptor you have to sit the engine and box on?
That is a factory Porsche tool and is still available from Porsche. From time to time you can find them for sale on eBay or some of the forums.
Kurt
Another great video I’m sure I will sometime need. For th time being I am enjoying my 3.2 Carrera but I am already watching all videos I can for when I need to , yours being the best on you tube I could find.
Personally I would appreciate some videos on adjusting sway bars (installation is rather straight forward), meaning how it affects handling if you install thicker ones or (in my case, adjustable ones) what difference it makes when you modify tension on them. I have not seen much videos on it. Thanks for sharing
Authi,
We plan to do a suspension video and discuss the exact points you mentioned.
Thanks for watching and thanks for sharing what you would like to see. It really helps us with video production.
Thanks
Kurt
Amazing video...!! Thanks so much.
You are welcome!
Kurt
Hi Kurt, great workmanship. All your videos are excellent and very inspiring. Can you comment on the header wrap? I have read that it's no longer favored because the concentrated/confined heat destroys the tubing fairly quickly, and that ceramic coating the headers is a much better way to keep the heat inside the pipes - what is your take on this?
It depends on what your end goals are. In this instance we were more concerned with the heat coming off the pipes and being put into the engine oil cooler and oil pipes due to header pipe proximity. When using stock heat exchangers the air moving thru the heater boxes reduces the exhaust heat being radiated back into engine components. As far a exhaust pipe stress fracturing due to excessive heat retention, sure its possible. However over what time frame are we looking at? The system like ever other part on the car is a consumable and will always require routine repair and or replacement. As far as ceramic coating is concerned I like it, and we are using it in a lot of different coatings on different parts throughout the engine and vehicle as whole. I have used it on exhaust component's but not in an insulating capacity and dont really have any data on that function.
Thanks
Kurt
Great video! What is the belt that you mentioned was replaced?
We replaced two belts on this one, the MFI pump drive belt located at the back of the motor. (This one is much easier to change while the motor is out). And the alternator drive belt and pulleys were changed on this one as well.
Thanks for watching
Kurt
Yes, I also wish to apprentice with you!
Maybe one day!
Great content as always. Would like to know about the missing oil line to the injection pump. I'm assuming the pump is filled and capped. Is it challenging to change the oil on the pump and at what frequency?
Charles
You are correct the pump is capped and filled, and yes to change the oil in the pump is not an easy thing. Porsche did this on their race cars to reduce some of the load on the lubrications system. It is not something I would recommend doing on a street car.
Kurt, can you please share lubrication points prior to mating the transmission to the engine? I know the throwout bearing and fork should get some grease. What about other points, and what type of lubricant? Thanks for your great videos.
Clutch release bearing arm contact points, Guide Sleeve, input shaft splines, and pilot bearing. I use a high-pressure wheel bearing grease and use it sparsely.
Kurt
Hello, great video! Just a question: is there no seal between the axle and the mount on the transmission?
Some do have a gasket and some do not. It the axle has a steel cover over the joint then it does not use a gasket,. otherwise there is a small gasket that is applied to the stub axle coming out of the transaxle.
Kurt
Lots of good tips in both the remove and install videos my favorite is the engine compartment seal I have to start paying more attention!
Ideally do you want to use shielded wires for a twin plug 6 pin system? Or is that just not an option… I’m putting one together and have been wondering what is best ?
Daniel,
If you are running a 6 pin CDI system on your twin plug then yes absolutely shielded plug wires are the way to go. Also make sure that the secondary resistance is correct. you are looking for 10,000 ohms per spark plug total with non resistor plugs. Where the resistance is located in the system is just as important as how much resistance you have. You need to have 6,000 between the coil and the cap, 1000 ohms at the cap where the wire comes in and 3000 ohms on the spark plug plug connector. If you stay from this it will result in coil and or CDI failure.
Thanks for watching
Kurt
Hey Kurt, great job, can I buy that plat you used to jack the engine? or did you make it your self? thanks
Yes you can, Its still available I believe through the Porsche parts network.
Kurt
How about a Sportomatic series for early 911.please??
We could do that, but i just dont have any Sportomatic customers on my books. Do you need to send us something?
Kurt
One more Must, does the cross member have to come totally out?
Yes
Kurt
thanks Kurt, I made myself one ,,,
Nice work!
Kurt
Great Channel and content! 911 legend! Can’t place the accent…sounds like some Aussie (or NZ), mixed with southern US Hillbilly…?!?!
yep that about sums it up.
Kurt