If you feel moved to share a 'tip' for the effort put forward to make videos like these please feel free to go to www.paypal.me/edibleacres which lets you send us a direct financial thanks. Videos of this length and complexity definitely take a little bit of time to put together and super professional backdrops like our stained table cloth are pretty high end! 0 pressure here, I'd be happy to make many more of these either way! A free way to support this work is to give a thumbs up, comment and ideally share this video far and wide! ALSO: Please share questions, notes, experiences, clarifications, disagreements, etc in the comments here to have a robust and full discussion happen. Thanks!
I like the approach of willingness to do for free but allow money to flow in if people wish to give that way. I have been sorta anti-money in the past, taught me a lot, but also prevented me from achieving goals I care about like buying land and making an abundance to share with others and use as a space to teach gardening. I'm making my peace with money these days, it is what it is, gotta deal with it :)
I stool layer apple tree rootstock. Even currants I prefer tip routing. This creates vigorous new plants and does less harm to the mother plant. Air layered splits on blue berrys. Currently experimenting with air layering and tip rooting honey berries. The honeyberries seem to root just as easy as currents. Dormant cuttings seem to root just fine. Thanks for the great info!!!
@HoboGardenerBen it's basically the same process as stool mounding, but imagine feeding a shoot of a blueberry bush that needs to be pruned off through a pot and filling the pot with soil for that shoot to route into. Once it has rooted it can be pruned free from the mother plant. Good for self propagation. Probably quite inefficient for resale.
@HoboGardenerBen search for, SJacadura and watch some of his videos. Great information and the best instructional videos I've ever found on many different propagation techniques.
What an incredible resource to share for free thank you! Wish I had it a few years ago at the start of my food forest but your videos have contributed a lot to my learning, such that I just separated my stool layered haskap, have a thornless blackberry tip layering, softwood cuttings rooted that were refugees from a storm damaged currant (no waste), and all my currants and gooseberries have pots of soil threaded over the stems marked for pruning out the next year, so that when I come to prune then off they are well rooted to plant out, the pots go straight onto the next targets and forgotten about for another year (works well on fig suckers too). Not to mention all the prunings that are put in the ground as hardwood cuttings. Still expanding the food forest but already hitting the point I can start giving away spare plants. Thank you!
For stool layering I've had great success with gooseberries, as well as currants and haskap. Hoping my blueberries take to this for next year. And now I will try this with my goumi!
@@joshua511 the idea with stool layering is to have multiple stems partially buried in soil. Each stem will be prompted to produce roots below ground. After the stems have developed 'enough' roots (experiment, there's no exact measurement), each stem with its roots can be divided from the original plant and replanted to produce a new clone of the 'parent'.
@@joshua511 You can just mound up around the stem(s) without cutting back. You can also bend low branches to the ground and bury the stem (use a weight to keep it down and leave the tip exposed). It will root at that spot too for even more plants. Currants and haskap too. Wounding helps.
By stool-layering, tip-layering, and then taking cuttings (pruning) early the next spring (and rooting them) I've been able to get 25+ copies of a plant in various stages of growth in 1 year.
I love the most stripped down approaches, like dropping those honeyberry into the ground. Or simply dig up seedlings that pop up around the mother plant, or both. I love gathering walnuts, crabapples, and acorns and just hucking them in unused public land, lots of scrub out there to play with. I doubt my success rate is high, but it is very easy to throw something so I have done it many hundreds of times. Poking a hole in the ground with a stick and dropping in a nut or seed is also very attractive to me. Good way to add value to a walk. I've been meaning to do tha with hazelnuts for years, but none around me and I haven't remembered to order any. Well, no time like the present I suppose, I need to be a hazel gardener :)
very helpful this info in moving forward with a wish to start a small nursery in the urban Foodforest, here in Amsterdam, been collecting seeds in the past year mostly hazel, chestnut and walnut sowed in pots, but this really gives the support needed to start small and use this principle of integrate instead of segregate...
I get the permaculture thing of having a wide variety of plants together, but looking at all the different beds with all the different species you've got going, how do you keep track of all this?
You can certainly make tags or maps or things like that to help and we do to some extent and then to some extent we get used to the complexity and it somehow doesn't feel like a big deal to track...
Sent a tiny donation as thanks for this (and all of) your wonderful work, to include Sasha, Juan, and Zelda, too! Edited to add: I'm lucky to live near McEnroe Farm; the best growers around here swear by them.
I just discovered these lessons. Thank you so much for your dedication to this work and your service to community, it’s priceless! But I sure will be tipping in:)
You mentioned that since you don't graze animals you don't want any grass growing as weeds. I was wondering if you had any opinions specifically on clumps of deep rooting, native grasses? I have not had any issues letting these grow as they spread very slowly, are great soil builders and for soil decompaction and it's very easy to lay over and cut a few inches from the ground and use for chicken coop bedding. Or I just mulch with it. Any thoughts?
I use leaves for the same thing, less seeds in it. I've had straw mulch sprout really bad so I stay away from it, and it creates a lot of dust in the coop, so I don't like it. It also tends to mold when wet. Leaves are better in every way imo.
We have Miscanthus grass of various types as well as Switchgrass that I super appreciate and enjoy having integrated. Good point. It is more the running annual and weedy grasses I was thinking of
how important is to protect tree seedlings with a wire mesh or something similar? i planted out some and got bit to the mulch level by either rabbit or deer, will they survive?
Most trees will survive being browsed during the winter months. They sprout back with nice vigor in the spring most often. You'll want to have protection in the following growing season but that can happen later. We have tons of trees browsed in year 1 and 2 and they are make it to maturity
I've got some Thuja Green Giants started in pots outside (Missouri, zone 6b). We haven't had much precipitation this fall so I'm assuming I should water them, but are there any tips on how to know when or how often to water in below-freezing temperatures?
I would offer the absolute minimum of watering and as suggested if soil was in good shape going into winter, just leave it. Perhaps offer mulch around the sides and on the soil surface to buffer things...
You can, although they are a very shallow rooted plant so the airprune box isn't necessary for good root development. I'd prioritize nut tree seeds over seaberry for this context for sure
If you feel moved to share a 'tip' for the effort put forward to make videos like these please feel free to go to www.paypal.me/edibleacres which lets you send us a direct financial thanks. Videos of this length and complexity definitely take a little bit of time to put together and super professional backdrops like our stained table cloth are pretty high end! 0 pressure here, I'd be happy to make many more of these either way!
A free way to support this work is to give a thumbs up, comment and ideally share this video far and wide!
ALSO: Please share questions, notes, experiences, clarifications, disagreements, etc in the comments here to have a robust and full discussion happen.
Thanks!
I like the approach of willingness to do for free but allow money to flow in if people wish to give that way. I have been sorta anti-money in the past, taught me a lot, but also prevented me from achieving goals I care about like buying land and making an abundance to share with others and use as a space to teach gardening. I'm making my peace with money these days, it is what it is, gotta deal with it :)
like fate this video dropped at the perfect time! love your content! thanks for all that yall do.
Very happy to share
I stool layer apple tree rootstock. Even currants I prefer tip routing. This creates vigorous new plants and does less harm to the mother plant. Air layered splits on blue berrys. Currently experimenting with air layering and tip rooting honey berries. The honeyberries seem to root just as easy as currents. Dormant cuttings seem to root just fine. Thanks for the great info!!!
Awesome, thank you for sharing!
Air layered splits for blueberries? I have more to learn, back to the video :)
@HoboGardenerBen it's basically the same process as stool mounding, but imagine feeding a shoot of a blueberry bush that needs to be pruned off through a pot and filling the pot with soil for that shoot to route into. Once it has rooted it can be pruned free from the mother plant. Good for self propagation. Probably quite inefficient for resale.
@@seanrichardson881 That was a good explanation, thanks. I might try that out sometime, sounds fun :)
@HoboGardenerBen search for, SJacadura and watch some of his videos. Great information and the best instructional videos I've ever found on many different propagation techniques.
What an incredible resource to share for free thank you! Wish I had it a few years ago at the start of my food forest but your videos have contributed a lot to my learning, such that I just separated my stool layered haskap, have a thornless blackberry tip layering, softwood cuttings rooted that were refugees from a storm damaged currant (no waste), and all my currants and gooseberries have pots of soil threaded over the stems marked for pruning out the next year, so that when I come to prune then off they are well rooted to plant out, the pots go straight onto the next targets and forgotten about for another year (works well on fig suckers too). Not to mention all the prunings that are put in the ground as hardwood cuttings. Still expanding the food forest but already hitting the point I can start giving away spare plants.
Thank you!
For stool layering I've had great success with gooseberries, as well as currants and haskap. Hoping my blueberries take to this for next year. And now I will try this with my goumi!
@hermittherob7056 Do you cut back the gooseberry and then pile on dirt? Or just pile the dirt around an existing stem and hope it produces new ones?
@@joshua511 the idea with stool layering is to have multiple stems partially buried in soil. Each stem will be prompted to produce roots below ground. After the stems have developed 'enough' roots (experiment, there's no exact measurement), each stem with its roots can be divided from the original plant and replanted to produce a new clone of the 'parent'.
@@joshua511 You can just mound up around the stem(s) without cutting back. You can also bend low branches to the ground and bury the stem (use a weight to keep it down and leave the tip exposed). It will root at that spot too for even more plants. Currants and haskap too. Wounding helps.
By stool-layering, tip-layering, and then taking cuttings (pruning) early the next spring (and rooting them) I've been able to get 25+ copies of a plant in various stages of growth in 1 year.
Great to read your experience here, thanks for sharing
I love the most stripped down approaches, like dropping those honeyberry into the ground. Or simply dig up seedlings that pop up around the mother plant, or both. I love gathering walnuts, crabapples, and acorns and just hucking them in unused public land, lots of scrub out there to play with. I doubt my success rate is high, but it is very easy to throw something so I have done it many hundreds of times. Poking a hole in the ground with a stick and dropping in a nut or seed is also very attractive to me. Good way to add value to a walk. I've been meaning to do tha with hazelnuts for years, but none around me and I haven't remembered to order any. Well, no time like the present I suppose, I need to be a hazel gardener :)
I share your love for the simplest approaches!
Thanks!
Very kind, thank you muchly! Hope it provided value to you
I use 10 part perlite to 1 part coconut coir. I had read that large nurseries do this, and I have gotten good results.
Thank you for sharing this
Thanks for another great video. I'm in the UK but use lots of your techniques.
Great to know!
thank you so much Sean and Sasha for everything you share with us!
So happy to share
very helpful this info in moving forward with a wish to start a small nursery in the urban Foodforest, here in Amsterdam, been collecting seeds in the past year mostly hazel, chestnut and walnut sowed in pots, but this really gives the support needed to start small and use this principle of integrate instead of segregate...
Thanks! You are awesome.
Thanks kindly glad you enjoyed
Such incredible and detailed information, I really appreciate everything you do, but this video was something I really needed to see, thank you.
I'm really pleased that this video feels useful and valuable to you
Thank you!
Of course
Thank you
Of course
Thank you very much for sharing 🌝👍
Thanks for engaging with it!
I get the permaculture thing of having a wide variety of plants together, but looking at all the different beds with all the different species you've got going, how do you keep track of all this?
You can certainly make tags or maps or things like that to help and we do to some extent and then to some extent we get used to the complexity and it somehow doesn't feel like a big deal to track...
Sent a tiny donation as thanks for this (and all of) your wonderful work, to include Sasha, Juan, and Zelda, too! Edited to add: I'm lucky to live near McEnroe Farm; the best growers around here swear by them.
Thank you kindly!!! Thanks for being a consistent part of our community here!
@@edibleacres I get far more than I give!
I just discovered these lessons. Thank you so much for your dedication to this work and your service to community, it’s priceless! But I sure will be tipping in:)
Don't feel pressure to offer a tip, its meant for folks where that feels comfortable only.
So glad you found the series and find it useful
@ thank you so much
Ah, Hah! Thank you for the insight on Good King Henry/Parsley relationship and the actions we may take to encourage their flourishing. Thank you!!
Glad you found that useful!
You mentioned that since you don't graze animals you don't want any grass growing as weeds. I was wondering if you had any opinions specifically on clumps of deep rooting, native grasses? I have not had any issues letting these grow as they spread very slowly, are great soil builders and for soil decompaction and it's very easy to lay over and cut a few inches from the ground and use for chicken coop bedding. Or I just mulch with it. Any thoughts?
Sounds like it works for you :)
I use leaves for the same thing, less seeds in it. I've had straw mulch sprout really bad so I stay away from it, and it creates a lot of dust in the coop, so I don't like it. It also tends to mold when wet. Leaves are better in every way imo.
We have Miscanthus grass of various types as well as Switchgrass that I super appreciate and enjoy having integrated. Good point. It is more the running annual and weedy grasses I was thinking of
how important is to protect tree seedlings with a wire mesh or something similar? i planted out some and got bit to the mulch level by either rabbit or deer, will they survive?
Most trees will survive being browsed during the winter months. They sprout back with nice vigor in the spring most often. You'll want to have protection in the following growing season but that can happen later. We have tons of trees browsed in year 1 and 2 and they are make it to maturity
@@edibleacres thank you for the answer, i appreciate it
I've got some Thuja Green Giants started in pots outside (Missouri, zone 6b). We haven't had much precipitation this fall so I'm assuming I should water them, but are there any tips on how to know when or how often to water in below-freezing temperatures?
As long as the soil was moist before freezing, you shouldn’t have to water at all.
I would offer the absolute minimum of watering and as suggested if soil was in good shape going into winter, just leave it. Perhaps offer mulch around the sides and on the soil surface to buffer things...
is it possible to propagate native muscadine grapes? I was planning on planting the seeds next spring
I'm sure it is and I don't have direct experience...
@edibleacres I'll experiment and find out
Stachys affinis is the Latin name of the mint root/crosne.
Thanks!
Would you grow seaberry from seed in an air prune box if you were limited on garden space?
You can, although they are a very shallow rooted plant so the airprune box isn't necessary for good root development. I'd prioritize nut tree seeds over seaberry for this context for sure