why not you use original outboard turning bracket was on it because it reduce headaches of other idea of 3d printers breaking and you can use it make bracket attached to pontoon boat and still use that original water pump inside lower shaft just need new impeller for it and come up to motor just need 90 bend to esc
@@kittyztigerz Cuz he is hack and more and more so as times go on strangely. A hack with a gazillion followers, that is. So, perhaps a hack with a smart plan to stay hacky for the masses. He seeminly hates doing research so he often makes weird decisions like these. His new bracket also has its pivot point further ahead than it ever needed to be. Maybe not an issue with this power, but still, it's hacky AF and I wonder if he ever considered it's geometry and the consequences of changing it. Also, no coupler between the motor and the shaft. He is likely going to wear out the bearings in that motor way faster than they should. Then again, by then, he is on to the next video. I mean, he is not stupid, probably not even lazy. It just puzzles me how many times he insists on making mistakes 15-30mins of research would have avoided. E.g. he yet has to figure out how to 3D print waterproof parts (enclosures and such) when the RC Yacht community figured it out 4-5 years ago. Or to start using proper o-rings when the two combined would likely have solved all the issues he always has with leaks in his electronics compartments on watercraft. But he gets shit done, he is entertaining and makes a living and the subs think it's all amazing. So, it's all good:)
@@AntiVaganza i hear ya if he would get to point when he does kick in go back fixed weak parts n alot time i do have ton of information about any machines because im engineer i was born to build stuff out of metal or plastic or woods
Love this channel because you never really know what to expect for the next video aside from the fact that it'll most likely involve electric motors and will be hilarious
@@slothandturtle8036 someday we will find out via carrier pigeon that due to a tragic electric surfboard accident that rclifeon can no longer use his arms and therefore can no longer upload 😔
I think you should use semi-flexible coupler between the engine and drive shafts, just in case they aren't perfectly aligned (and they never are), which might destroy bearings in the long run.
Hello! Love your channel! FYI, the bottom end of the outboard motor should have some gear oil inside. You may want to check that its still there or you could risk burning up the gears and bearings. There should be a drain bung and a fill port that unscrew and may help efficiency if you use a lighter weight oil.
At 50v and 33kv you are at 1600rpm and with the reduction you'll have about 850rpm at the propeller. With that outboard lower unit you are forced to use a small prop so you will be grossly underproped. It would be wise to either increase your battery voltage, change the reduction ratio or even ditch the outboard and build the boat with an inboard engine configuration, which will be way more efficient allowing you to use a direct drive and a way larger propeller.
Oh, only 1600 rpm? Yeah that wont be close to enough if he wants to go fast. Dont know how you mean its more efficient though, that depends a lot on how it transfers the power, so it can be either way. Propshafts create a lot of drag...
@@jotham123 Correct. There is no need to make prototypes if their only purpose is to check something that could have been done with a few simple calculations.
Cool, will be very exciting to follow this! Regarding the cavitation: there might be holes or tubes going from the underwater parts to where the old motor was, this is for exausts and maybe water cooling. It might be that the propeller is sucking air down through these tubes, that happened for me when I did a conversion :)
You are right, that's air being sucked from the old exhaust system. But that isn't cavitation (at these rpm and propeller size it is very unlikely), if it was afecting the propeller (reducing the effective pitch) it would be ventilation but you can clearly see it is produced just a few inches behind the propeller so it shouldn't be having any effect on the propeller. In a combustion engine it has the purpose of unloading the propeller at low rpm and low speed by injecting "high" pressure exhaust gases that unload the propeller (as they are forced not induced) and when the speed is sufficiently high they can't expand in the direction of the prop so the stop having any effect. It helps quite a bit mainly for getting into plane.
@@AntonMakesStuff He means that the propeller is made to "slip" and not grab the water too much at low speed by having it in "bubbly" water so it can speed up and have the engine get up to speed faster. If the propeller doesnt "unload" aka "slip" it will bog an engine down and the takeoff will be very sluggish :)
The formulae is to take an existing design or product and modify the design through reverse engineering, simplification and inexperience while utilizing modern technology, video editing and humor. Most entertaining channel and he has me hooked.
You are the only person on this planet, at least i know of, who wears rubber boots or sandals when working on stuff. I love that! Edit: A TIG welding machine. I know that would be a new skill to learn, but it is so much fun to weld and you can build things a little bit more permanently than with plastics
Toroidal propeller is technically coined by MIT lab and used in aerospace after Sharrow Marine patent. The patent holders for the loop prop design is Sharrow Marine. Sharrow Propeller copy would be more accurate technically. I just talked to Sharrow Marine and they hassled the crap out of me for calling their propeller a toroidal prop. 😂 Sharrow’s patent covers loop style prop going through any fluid medium….they said this includes water, air, etc.
Interested for part 2 of this. There's a lot of math that goes into what size of prop you need and what a good rpm for your motor config would be. I dunno anything about that though, a video of somebody explaining their process would be great
Ok now y'all can't tell me this video isn't just a thirst trap. It's just ten minutes of bro looking fine as hell and talking about threaded rods, shafts, holes, and lubricants.
Congratulations on the house. Looking forward to seeing lots of videos on the process of getting your new space set up! Would like to see you get a plasma table in the future, your crazy ideas armed with a plasma table I can't imagine what you wouldn't be able to do. Cheers!
Without sponsorship, PCBWay is quite expensive, therefore I would recommend trying "Lost PLA casting" or maybe just metal casting overall. It is a bit of an extra step, but in many applications i think it really would benefit you when normal 3d printed material just doesnt hold up.
It’s been a while since I’ve cast stuff, mostly precious metals (or brass for the fun stuff) Good hand made wax moulds took me ages. You just blew my mind with ‘lost PLA casting’
I don't know if you've already finalized this yet or not, but mirroring the mounting/hinge setup so that it goes on the top and bottom of the wood beam would _massively_ improve its strength. If you did this, I'd be willing to bet you could even keep the mount made from plastic without any issues. I did some very rough math and estimated an increase in strength of an order of magnitude or two. The biggest drawback to this is you'd need to find a way to get the whole setup further underwater since it would raise it even further in its current mounting configuration. Also, as others have mentioned, using the original mount would also solve this issue.
Love watching your videos and I've been talking about my brother about converting an outboard motor into electric for my boat almost 2years ago😂. Thank you for the video, and now you made me want to start my electric boat project😂.
For testing motors we've used a trash can where we could mount the original bracket on the edge and fill the bucket with water. That might help for quicker testing at home 😊
Love it! And the approach... I always asked myself why everybody is diy building electic motors under water instead of this and now finally somebody did... think about maintenancing your drivetrain and there usually is also a water inlet with a tiny plastic wheel that gives the engine water cooling... maybe hook that up to the esc.
hi, I don't think the propeller you printed is actually toroidal. It looks more like it's a regular propeller but with a hole in the blade if that makes sense. The point of toroidal propellers is that the extrados of the blade on the lower half becomes the intrados on the upper half, and vice-versa. So the blade sort of curls back to the propeller shaft. Look closer at the blade "tip" of toroidal propellers if my explanation isn't clear, they're not the same as the one you printed.
10:25 If the prop sits too high, then it's *Ventilation* If a prop is damaged/imperfect and or spinning too fast that could result in *cavitation*, avoid the latter. Edit: Congratulations for the new house!
Hi! Great concept. Why not use the original bracket for steering? And what happend to the impeller? Did you take it out or are you going to use it for cooling the motor/speedcontroller?
Thank you for a great video. I’m planing to do something like this myself. I really like your skills. 👍🏻👍🏻 I will check the rest of your videos. Thanks 🇸🇪
Looks awesome! I do think the cavitation is caused by the propeller itself, though. It being small and plastic and probably a bit rough will cause this. I just went thru that with my small boat. A brand new bigger and higher pitched prop solved the cavitation issue 100 percent….. good luck!
The cavitation isnt from waterline, its because the exhaust is routed through the impeller housing from the motor housing. You will need to block that off.
It would exit behind the propeller so I suppose it wouldn't hinder the flow in the propeller blades much. I mean, there's exhaust gas coming out in normal operation too.
haha I like the new screw driver animated effects. I would've used those bolts from the top, put nuts all the way to the top and tighten it, now you have 2 threads that are super stiff and straight. then placing it down you can mark the holes and place 2 nuts on the bottom and top side of the tray. then cross threads on the front and/or back to the 4 corners to stop it twisting. your propeller I would've coated it with resin glue or UV one and then just put it outside hehe use bearings on the turning parts rather than roughing it out.
Removes original clamp on mount made out of metal to replace it with a 3d printed part and a bolt xD Great video though, only thing that bugged me. I'm currently building a scooter with one of these motors and love as this inspiration!!
Yes, the rumours are true. I started a review channel: www.youtube.com/@rclifeonreviews
Subbed!
why not you use original outboard turning bracket was on it because it reduce headaches of other idea of 3d printers breaking and you can use it make bracket attached to pontoon boat and still use that original water pump inside lower shaft just need new impeller for it and come up to motor just need 90 bend to esc
Congrats
@@kittyztigerz Cuz he is hack and more and more so as times go on strangely. A hack with a gazillion followers, that is. So, perhaps a hack with a smart plan to stay hacky for the masses. He seeminly hates doing research so he often makes weird decisions like these. His new bracket also has its pivot point further ahead than it ever needed to be. Maybe not an issue with this power, but still, it's hacky AF and I wonder if he ever considered it's geometry and the consequences of changing it.
Also, no coupler between the motor and the shaft. He is likely going to wear out the bearings in that motor way faster than they should. Then again, by then, he is on to the next video.
I mean, he is not stupid, probably not even lazy. It just puzzles me how many times he insists on making mistakes 15-30mins of research would have avoided. E.g. he yet has to figure out how to 3D print waterproof parts (enclosures and such) when the RC Yacht community figured it out 4-5 years ago. Or to start using proper o-rings when the two combined would likely have solved all the issues he always has with leaks in his electronics compartments on watercraft.
But he gets shit done, he is entertaining and makes a living and the subs think it's all amazing. So, it's all good:)
@@AntiVaganza i hear ya if he would get to point when he does kick in go back fixed weak parts n alot time i do have ton of information about any machines because im engineer i was born to build stuff out of metal or plastic or woods
Love this channel because you never really know what to expect for the next video aside from the fact that it'll most likely involve electric motors and will be hilarious
And you never now when and if there will be a next video
@@slothandturtle8036 someday we will find out via carrier pigeon that due to a tragic electric surfboard accident that rclifeon can no longer use his arms and therefore can no longer upload 😔
@@eightfold3195 Until he builds 80V water-cooled electric arms.
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I kept wondering when he was going to drop the whole outboard motor into the lake and then have to break out the snorkeling gear.
You should have used the original mounting bracket for the outboard engine as it serves as steering pivot
And the built in watter pump for cooling. So much extra work with this build😅
I was dumbfounded that he didn't use the original water pump nor steering assembly
I think you should use semi-flexible coupler between the engine and drive shafts, just in case they aren't perfectly aligned (and they never are), which might destroy bearings in the long run.
I think you are right, however, the 3d printed mount probably allows for enough flex for the bearings to not be under a terribly uneven load
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Hello! Love your channel! FYI, the bottom end of the outboard motor should have some gear oil inside. You may want to check that its still there or you could risk burning up the gears and bearings. There should be a drain bung and a fill port that unscrew and may help efficiency if you use a lighter weight oil.
At 50v and 33kv you are at 1600rpm and with the reduction you'll have about 850rpm at the propeller. With that outboard lower unit you are forced to use a small prop so you will be grossly underproped. It would be wise to either increase your battery voltage, change the reduction ratio or even ditch the outboard and build the boat with an inboard engine configuration, which will be way more efficient allowing you to use a direct drive and a way larger propeller.
Oh, only 1600 rpm? Yeah that wont be close to enough if he wants to go fast. Dont know how you mean its more efficient though, that depends a lot on how it transfers the power, so it can be either way. Propshafts create a lot of drag...
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@@jotham123 Correct. There is no need to make prototypes if their only purpose is to check something that could have been done with a few simple calculations.
Cool, will be very exciting to follow this! Regarding the cavitation: there might be holes or tubes going from the underwater parts to where the old motor was, this is for exausts and maybe water cooling. It might be that the propeller is sucking air down through these tubes, that happened for me when I did a conversion :)
You are right, that's air being sucked from the old exhaust system. But that isn't cavitation (at these rpm and propeller size it is very unlikely), if it was afecting the propeller (reducing the effective pitch) it would be ventilation but you can clearly see it is produced just a few inches behind the propeller so it shouldn't be having any effect on the propeller. In a combustion engine it has the purpose of unloading the propeller at low rpm and low speed by injecting "high" pressure exhaust gases that unload the propeller (as they are forced not induced) and when the speed is sufficiently high they can't expand in the direction of the prop so the stop having any effect.
It helps quite a bit mainly for getting into plane.
@@jimix321 That is very interesting, thanks for explaining :) I don't really get what you mean with "unload the propeller" though?
@@AntonMakesStuff He means that the propeller is made to "slip" and not grab the water too much at low speed by having it in "bubbly" water so it can speed up and have the engine get up to speed faster. If the propeller doesnt "unload" aka "slip" it will bog an engine down and the takeoff will be very sluggish :)
@@eamh2002 That is very interesting, thank you for sharing!
The formulae is to take an existing design or product and modify the design through reverse engineering, simplification and inexperience while utilizing modern technology, video editing and humor. Most entertaining channel and he has me hooked.
Congratulations on the new house! Love your content and looking forward to seeing what you do with the new shop area.
Why not use the original motor's pivot? Why 3d print a new one?
Someone needs to sponsor this man and send him some nice tools. Though the jank is part of the charm of this channel. It's always a surrpise.
You really should get into bending metal to stop printing 10 cm thick plastic XD Great video
11:26 happy that you are building the most important “thing” of your life…. A family❤
Great video. I do have to admit that I miss the RC stuff. The FPV videos is one of the reasons I got into the FPV hobby.
Really excited for the part 2 Simon🙌
You are the only person on this planet, at least i know of, who wears rubber boots or sandals when working on stuff. I love that!
Edit: A TIG welding machine. I know that would be a new skill to learn, but it is so much fun to weld and you can build things a little bit more permanently than with plastics
@RcLifeOn in 2 years, I made an Electric ship 😂😂. Great content man
I like this channel, good explanation of all subjects and you show the thinking process and failures.
Toroidal propeller is technically coined by MIT lab and used in aerospace after Sharrow Marine patent. The patent holders for the loop prop design is Sharrow Marine. Sharrow Propeller copy would be more accurate technically. I just talked to Sharrow Marine and they hassled the crap out of me for calling their propeller a toroidal prop. 😂
Sharrow’s patent covers loop style prop going through any fluid medium….they said this includes water, air, etc.
Been waiting for the part 2 of this build…
same here
Interested for part 2 of this. There's a lot of math that goes into what size of prop you need and what a good rpm for your motor config would be. I dunno anything about that though, a video of somebody explaining their process would be great
Ok now y'all can't tell me this video isn't just a thirst trap. It's just ten minutes of bro looking fine as hell and talking about threaded rods, shafts, holes, and lubricants.
Congratulations on the house. Looking forward to seeing lots of videos on the process of getting your new space set up! Would like to see you get a plasma table in the future, your crazy ideas armed with a plasma table I can't imagine what you wouldn't be able to do. Cheers!
Right? Or made even a small CNC mill
@@Fosterforged solid idea there Sean, why not both!!
Great video!
I do miss the drones though so I'd love to see a modern build.
Keep up the good work dude!
Man's been scanning my thoughts, just starting the vid can't wait to see it
What I like to see in the new garage:
You happily working one a project.
I cannot wait for part two! This is really interesting!
I hope you upload part 2 soon.
Without sponsorship, PCBWay is quite expensive, therefore I would recommend trying "Lost PLA casting" or maybe just metal casting overall. It is a bit of an extra step, but in many applications i think it really would benefit you when normal 3d printed material just doesnt hold up.
It’s been a while since I’ve cast stuff, mostly precious metals (or brass for the fun stuff)
Good hand made wax moulds took me ages.
You just blew my mind with ‘lost PLA casting’
Where is Part 2! This was great!
I was literally thinking about converting gas powered outboard mitors to electric yesterday, and today this vid is uploaded.
Congrats on the house!
I don't know if you've already finalized this yet or not, but mirroring the mounting/hinge setup so that it goes on the top and bottom of the wood beam would _massively_ improve its strength. If you did this, I'd be willing to bet you could even keep the mount made from plastic without any issues. I did some very rough math and estimated an increase in strength of an order of magnitude or two.
The biggest drawback to this is you'd need to find a way to get the whole setup further underwater since it would raise it even further in its current mounting configuration.
Also, as others have mentioned, using the original mount would also solve this issue.
Heating up the PLA and forming it after assembly was a really smart idea!
Love watching your videos and I've been talking about my brother about converting an outboard motor into electric for my boat almost 2years ago😂. Thank you for the video, and now you made me want to start my electric boat project😂.
I like your copper wire wrapping trick, that's a new one for me!
Awesome project!
Can't wait for part 2
That photo in CAD trick is life changing. Noice!
A walkthrough of your new studio setup with Q&A would be a nice change.
This lake is so beautiful. You are so freaking lucky.
Ah yes, the drowning machine.
Love when you drop a new vid mate!
Can't wait to see the Part 2! Congratulations on the house, need to spice it up with some newer faster printers!
your crude prototyping approach is wonderful :)
Love the editing on your videos, btw
your mock up propeller is not toroidal, loving the build so far, so interesting to see other people solve problems
For testing motors we've used a trash can where we could mount the original bracket on the edge and fill the bucket with water.
That might help for quicker testing at home 😊
congrats on new house hesse
Love it! And the approach... I always asked myself why everybody is diy building electic motors under water instead of this and now finally somebody did... think about maintenancing your drivetrain and there usually is also a water inlet with a tiny plastic wheel that gives the engine water cooling... maybe hook that up to the esc.
"Saving the planet by reusing this piece of shi..." I love this guy. He would be the one to own whiny twitter users that create beef over nothing.
Grattis med nytt hus!! 🎉 Blir skoj å se vad du hittar på i framtiden. 😊
Perfect after a bad day at work 😊 thanks ^^
So cool, when is part 2 coming?
I also looked for PART 2 - but it seems 10 months later and no PART 2?
I can't wait to see the final thing in action, this was awesome!
Do your own bronze casting for that new prop! That could be a whole video by itself!
Definitely big fire and crucible time!
no surprise but your 3d prints look fantastic!
hi, I don't think the propeller you printed is actually toroidal. It looks more like it's a regular propeller but with a hole in the blade if that makes sense. The point of toroidal propellers is that the extrados of the blade on the lower half becomes the intrados on the upper half, and vice-versa. So the blade sort of curls back to the propeller shaft. Look closer at the blade "tip" of toroidal propellers if my explanation isn't clear, they're not the same as the one you printed.
Congrats on the garage! Just keep doing what you do. I'll watch.
Awesome project. Can't wait for the boat build!
I think that thermaforming was a good idea. Maybe next attempt cream a solid wooden jig that can distribute the clamping pressure evenly
Excited for part 2 man...congrats on the house too
wasn't expecting that giant wooden boat at all
Oh man, there be nothin' much more fun than sketchy assed projects.
11:24 congrats on your new house! Can’t wait for the next vid 😁
Dude, already used the new Lupus Nocte song??
Heck yeah. Good taste hahaha
very happy for your living situation upgrade. about time!
Congrats on your purchase. Thanks for another wonderful video.
Congratulations on the new house my friend!! You seem like a smart, friendly and down to earth fella. Cheers!!
10:25 If the prop sits too high, then it's *Ventilation*
If a prop is damaged/imperfect and or spinning too fast that could result in *cavitation*, avoid the latter.
Edit: Congratulations for the new house!
Congrats on the house dude! Excited to see what comes of this!!!
congrats for the new house, you should maybe introduce how you have organized your garage.
Yes brooo!! Go catch more pike on your new boat!
Congrats on the home purchase! Good stuff!
Cool project man. Can't wait for part 2.
Hi! Great concept.
Why not use the original bracket for steering?
And what happend to the impeller? Did you take it out or are you going to use it for cooling the motor/speedcontroller?
Congrats on new place! Stoked for part two.
I spit saliva when you broke that steering haha
Congratulations on the new house! That’s exciting, love the prop I’m interested to see how it works. As I’m a avid boat goer 👍🏼
Congrats on the house!
You're a great youtuber man. I found your videos early on and your content has always kept me watching. I look forward to part 2.
Worked pretty good son
9:34 - that look of concern/curiosity at the creaking... lol - been there.
Thank you for a great video. I’m planing to do something like this myself. I really like your skills.
👍🏻👍🏻 I will check the rest of your videos.
Thanks 🇸🇪
Congrats on the house!!! Cant wait to see what you will do with that much space ;)
At least 3 TH-camrs make boats now
Thanks. Always fun and interesting to watch. Looking forward to the follow-up videos.
Looks awesome! I do think the cavitation is caused by the propeller itself, though. It being small and plastic and probably a bit rough will cause this. I just went thru that with my small boat. A brand new bigger and higher pitched prop solved the cavitation issue 100 percent….. good luck!
Hey this was a fun video showing the iterative designs!
Love seeing you work, inspirational
Bad ass getting ur own place Simon. You my friend need a CNC machine for cutting some alu. Cheap options out there now.
Great to see your new garage!
congratulations for the new house
So much fun! You do the stuff I wish I could do. Excited to see what you do with the new garage. Congratulations!
Cool episode make the Tiller longer and make everything alloy
Congrats on the new house 🎉
I’m hyped for the boat 🙌🏼☺️
The cavitation isnt from waterline, its because the exhaust is routed through the impeller housing from the motor housing. You will need to block that off.
Ooh, good point!
It would exit behind the propeller so I suppose it wouldn't hinder the flow in the propeller blades much. I mean, there's exhaust gas coming out in normal operation too.
@@juhanaleiwo it would depend on the impeller design i would imagine.
@@colinsmith6340 Yeah, I agree it's probably best to block the holes anyway.
Can't wait for part 2
haha I like the new screw driver animated effects.
I would've used those bolts from the top, put nuts all the way to the top and tighten it, now you have 2 threads that are super stiff and straight. then placing it down you can mark the holes and place 2 nuts on the bottom and top side of the tray. then cross threads on the front and/or back to the 4 corners to stop it twisting.
your propeller I would've coated it with resin glue or UV one and then just put it outside hehe
use bearings on the turning parts rather than roughing it out.
your workshop is very nice my friend, to new beautiful days
Removes original clamp on mount made out of metal to replace it with a 3d printed part and a bolt xD
Great video though, only thing that bugged me.
I'm currently building a scooter with one of these motors and love as this inspiration!!
2:01 very nice touch :)