My shop is always a work in progress of moving things around to make it work more smoothly. Always have to compromise what is more important. Great work, Doug.
Nice addition to your shop! I am glad you included the real world challenges and how you dealt with them. Projects never seem to go exactly as planned. Your shop is very impressive!
Fantastic video Doug. You've got a talent in setting up for max efficiency in everything you do. Thank you for being good counsel with wisdom for others :)
at work we moved into an old manufacturing plant that had lots of machines that ran off air. We use very little air and didn't need the giant compressor so we hooked up an air compressor like yours to the existing system which is hundreds of feet of 1" copper line and a 300-400 gallon tank. It works great and every 15' there is a connection to hang a hose drop.
I have a 5 hp 2 stage Ingersoll Rand compressor and the best thing I did was build a shed on the outside of my shop for it so I don't have to hear it running. Nice work Doug!
My dad‘s shop teacher from back in the day did this with a 500 gallon propane tank. You never run out of air. Takes about 10 minutes to pump up in the morning when you turn it on but then you’ve got all the air you would ever need.
@@hardrays Just make sure to put the tank inside a room with explosion-proof walls. Add an automatic drain valve or air dryer if you have more money. Remember, in the future that Tank will leak or explode. It is better to be safe than sorry. Right now, it is a tank in the future it is a bomb.
@@frostsmaker8966 i just got this new 60 gal compressor and first drain let out rusty water. If they dont even bother to rustproof the inside if these thin wall new products then i cant accept that they are safer than a thick wall tank rated for 400psi working pressure. Periodic requalification by hydrostatic testing with a presure washer at 800psi is my plan and something they never proactively recommend for these indoor foil tanks that the masses are buying these days. I take exception. On a long enough timeline any pressure vessel is a bomb. Retesting is key. Coming from st louis, i am aware of the threat of ballistic boilers, act brazenly but accordingly.
For the 3-Phase motor you can use a VFD variable frequency drive that adds the 3rd leg or a dedicated phase converter from either Direct Drives or American Rotary. The extra tank space will be a great help with activities like sandblasting or DA sanding.
Very nice work, Doug. Yes, I can see where you need the extra capacity. Well worth your time to add that tank. I don't see you ever outworking your new configuration...even using V-style Hi-Flow fittings and larger diameter hoses.
Doug I'm pretty sure there's a way to use a 3 phase motor on household current. I have a Jet woodlathe that has a 3 phase motor and it is plugged into a 120v household outlet. I also have my compressor on a contact that works off my light switch. So it only runs when my shop light are on. Great video.
Wow, what a killer video!!! A couple questions or perhaps considerations for a future video or two. Your blaster cabinet looks like a Harbor Freight? Could you do an in-depth video on the cabinet? Your likes, dislikes, mods or improvements you’ve done to it. I’ve always heard they are pretty, but can leak glass beads and or air. Our zero pee blaster at work was vented to the outside as I remember. We would come to work and it was all installed. I do remember what I would call duct work coming out if the machine and plumbed into the wall or ceiling. I’m retired now so I just don’t recall. The other would be the proper installation of the the hardware for the removing the moisture from the air system. We all know rust is not our friend. You really do have an incredible understanding of these types of issues or anything that threatens a tool. I hope you will consider these video suggestions. I can’t think of another tool that guys would love to have in their garage/shops. Thank you for your knowledge, expertise and willingness to make things better. See you in the next installment.
I bought one of these harbor freight cabinets recently and I have been watching videos on TH-cam and seems like most of the guys are putting these together and caulking all the seams during the assembly phase. To keep the dust from blowing out of the seems of the cabinet. Seem like all those videos the guys were complaining about the mess that cabinet makes during a few hours of work in it. So being able to vent this out the wall and keep the dust from settling on everything in the shop would be such a great help I don't want to repaint my cars or have to tarp them every time I want to use that cabinet. I have yet to put mine together I figured that would be my winter project at least one of them. I did pick up two different medias walnut and 80 grit silica to blow through this cabinet and a few benjies that I can drain it into and change the media easier. Glad I got to catch this video now I know what I'm doing with my air system prior to getting that particular cabinet up and running. Definitely following to see what people are suggesting to add. Thanks for the great content keep up the good work your shot looks really good.
@@vicswanby454 Hi Vic, I’m not sure what kind of caulk to use. I know the toughest stuff I’ve ever used is called Vulkem. I used it to attach and seal threshold’s.
I've been using stuff called "through the roof" for years and it seems to stick real well to metal and it makes a great seal for the last 20 years I've been building post frame buildings in the Inland Northwest we have every season here and when I use that stuff I don't have to go back to those jobs to fix anything I have fixed holes in roofs with that you can get it in clear and in white. The video that I had watched the guy just used cheap caulk but I think someone can do better than that and use something that's got some durability to it because it's going to be in a blast cabinet I'd want to use the best stuff I could.
Maybe you should consider putting a relay on your power to the compressor, switch it on with your lighting circuit. Your compressor would only have power If the lights are on day or night . Chasing air leaks is a never ending battle. I have a 60 gal tank but not installed yet for this same setup. GREAT VIDEO!
Hi Doug, another great video with great shop ideas! I ran across a video the other day on how to make a compressor much more quiet through the use of a homemade muffler / silencer. Search for "Silence your air compressor CHEAP!" for the video. Might give you some ideas on how to fabricate one for your situation with the stock filter next to that cabinet. Seems to work wonders in cutting down the decibels emitted. Paul in Central TX.
Good. I was replacing the 4 tiny factory air filters once a week at work. 2 compressors. I made an intake to go from 1 to the 4 spots & plumbed it outside. I also made a housing to use an automotive air filter that is outside. Wow, what a huge difference in noise & now I replace the cheap filter once a year. If it was my choice, I would put them in a utility room where no one would hear them.
Setup a radiator style air dryer system and install it between the compressor and the tank. Make sure to have a drain valve before going into the tank, so you can drain the water from the line. They work great and will keep the water out of your tank and tools!
FUNNY YOU put Out this video just now I'm getting ready to try and do the same thing with a 29 gallon and a 20 gallon thanks I've been looking for a video like this there's quite a few of them out there like your shop a lot very well organized and neat wish I could have a shop that big and it's nice thanks for the video One thing I do wish you would do is show more in detail in the video of how you do this thanks
Awesome addon/upgrade! As always, professionally executed and visually appealing. Better put a stopper for that door so the hose reel handle or air valves don't go thru the door's glass.
Wow, I am amazed to see folks ignoring the fact that condensation can be addressed and eliminated from your tank in the first place. Water inside your tank is your number one enemy for tank life. By adding a cheap effective cooling radiator in front of your compressor pulley (cooling air being drawn across it) you effectively eliminate the air differentials. Simply re-pipe the compressor head to it first, add a water separator, pipe it back to the tank and viola, NO More Water in your tank. Total cost all in is less than $150.
Love the setup. I have an add on that you may research for your system. On your S.O. cord coming from the panel, I saw that you are using 4 wire. In that case you can pickup the Neutral, and one side load hot leg @ magnetic switch and run 120 volt Automatic Drain Valve and then pipe to outside. No more ball valves to remember to drain. If your tanks are relatively clean on the inside, it'll be very little maintenance, in my experience. By using one hot leg, and neutral from your Mag switch, the drain valve only discharges when Motor turns on. Super Trick...I think timer discharge can go from .5 sec to 45 second thereabouts. I didn't like having the drain valve plugged into the wall and bleeding system pressure while I was away, or having to remember to unplug, or install switch. In a continuous Industrial Environment it's fine to leave valve going, but residential not so much. I've never seen anyone do it that way, but came up with it on my Compressed Air Journey. P.S. Of course to run one Valve you'll have to tee the tanks together.
Smart move..i wish i had a120 gal tank as well..i see the green one at 80 gal ..I have a home shop..too..but i put a inground lift in my garage..so i need the air..i have a 3 h.p. 2 stage compressor..so it runs on 220 30 amps ..not a 50 amp double ..im a one man shop at home great video. Just fix your air filter..so u can open your cabinet..the longer u extended your air intake ,the quieter your unit runs..as i did the same.
You can definitely use a smaller lower capacity/psi tank as a secondary. It's just about hooking it up correctly. Regulators backflow valves... In many ways to do this
Compressed air storage is one of the cheapest ways to increase the efficiency of a compressed air system. A mainline loop will also increase performance. In industrial settings you can get by with a smaller compressor as the air accumulator will store enough air to get you through short periods of high demand.
100 gal shelf platform! Ever thought about a 50x120 shop with 5 bays, 3 -2 post lifts, loft area for storage, wife's hobby room, then maybe you'll have enough room. Lol!
Nice work Doug, great addition. I think I speak for everyone when I ask the most important question…… what’s in the white wall cupboard next to the new tank location!!???!!
I checked on some blank tank prices before and they seemed nearly as much as just getting a whole other compressor, while a higher cfm pump + motor seemed actually cheaper
Have you considered an automatic tank drain? Does a great job of keeping the moisture out of your tanks. Also, I highly recommend the Tacoma Company upgrade to your Harbor Freight blast cabinet. The best upgrade I've done. Looks like you've done some type of changes to it, but hard to tell what it is.
@@OneEyeCustoms Yes, it is. It's actually just under Harbor Freight Blast Cabinet upgrades, I think. There are several videos out on it. Not a cheap upgrade and might be something you could do on your own, but it's a game changer on these cheap blast cabinets.
Hey if you still have that motor and pump I’m interested. My tank went down at the shop due to the power company letting the neutral safety wire break off the pole. I caused pretty good damage and they won’t help me get the property back that they destroyed.
If the pump turns over smoothly, I could absolutely use the pump and flywheel pulley. My 86' 3 cylinder Dayton W pump in on its last leg. Thanks, Larry HSV, AL
Hi Doug tried this set up today after watching your video. How does your sandblaster work now and what size nozzles? What is your pressure switch set at and what is the manual pressure valve set at? Thanks.
Hey Doug great video. Curious: how did you get those things moved around? Can’t imagine you shimmied them over the floor tiles without buckling it all up. Dolly? Not seeing casters
Nice job buddy!! I was waiting for part when you tested the new set up using the sandblasting cabinet. What’s the difference between the single tank and new set up? How long compressor takes to kind on while you’re sandblasting? Thanks bro.
It is so much better with the second tank, several times when sandblasting I would look over at the compressor and wonder when it was going to kick on. A second holding tank is the way to go for sure!
Hi! Great vid! I have an old 26 gallon Husky air compressor that just bit the bullet. As I’m looking for replacements, it dawned on me that I’d have to throw away the original tank once the newer 20 gal one arrived. Found this vid while searching for 2 tank/1 compressor systems in the hopes of not throwing away the old one... Since this vid is a year old, any chance of doing an update on your two-tank setup? How it’s been, what you’d change, etc? Keep up the kick ass vids! I’m off to check out more! 🙌🏼
Nice setup. I have the same Quincy compressor. If you still have your old compressor and motor, look up "The compressor guru" here on youtube. I think he is near you, and he might be interested in it.
Man you could have sold that big compressor for 2-3k and bought a tank for 1-2 hundred! I just bought a nice Kellog 80 gallon tank for $100 to build a big single phase 220v that will push 20-23 cfm. That welded tag on the front lower left side of the casco tank should have the tank size and max psi stamped on it.
I guess it depends on what compressor you have. Mine have 1/4 npt pipe thread bottom fittings in the tank. I remove the plug and add some fittings as well as a ball valve with a barbed fitting, attach the appropriate air hose and that’s all you really need. Hope this helps a bit.
I have the same compressor. It looks like you took a short flowzilla air hose and removed one end, attached it to the compressor drain. If not, after looking at it, it appears that might also be a solution.
It helps the hose slip on much easier then dries. A lubricant would always stay slippery and not give good holding power. As kids we did it with bicycle and motorcycle hand grips. Works very well!!
Funny when people in America don’t have 3 phases in the garage house because here in Finland every single house has 3 phases and I think they have to have it for some reason. I’m not an electrician so I don’t know why we have it but I know every house has it. 😂
Thought I would explain to you why this is, three phase happens to be more efficient as far as electricity use. You used to be able to get three phase pre-World War II. However, the utility companies realized that by not allowing three phase hook up to homes they could increase the amount of electricity sold by volume of amp/hour volume. Very few people realize why three phase was done away with by the utility companies. It was about money now that they want more efficient and “green“ initiatives. It’s kind of ironic what free phase everywhere would’ve done for the overall load on the power grid. This is based on a study done by an electrical engineering professor I got an opportunity to read his journal article on it that ended up in an electrical engineering academic journal. As I flipped through it because it was the only thing available while I was in a waiting room all the other magazines were taken, and I grabbed it thinking might as well check it out and then learned the history of why no three phases in the US. After I read it. I spoke with my father who worked on power generation on two aircraft carriers and ran a local municipalities power plant once leaving the Navy. He confirmed it and he said there is one house in the town that is on three phase and it’s known as the Berry Mansion. All other houses were converted away from three phase except for this house because Mr. Barry was a very influential man (read powerful) and his family is still very influential. Three phase electric motors. Also last a lot longer. I remember going down to the Industrial Electric Motor supply on by a guy that ended up being my father‘s best friend after he retired completely and he said he did not rewound a three phase motor in over 30 years and we used to have a lot of manufacturing companies most of the work and supplies they ordered or switches never part of the three phase motors.
Wow kinda painful to watch but I like the idea. Looks fairly good but I’m thinking you need a cooling coil to prevent the moisture from collecting in your tanks to begin with.
I wonder if you could add a double-v pulley to the blue motor and run both compressors on 1 motor. Perhaps that is not a good idea, but that is the first rhought that occurred to me. It doesn't seem that that motor is working very hard, just pulling 1 compressor.
Love the content Doug! Have you thought about getting a mic to attach to your shirt or hat or something? The sound is hit or miss sometimes. Just a suggestion.
Oh, meant to ask....what kind of sand do you use in your blaster? I have a little gun blaster that I've always used silica sand in. Can't find silica sand anywhere so I use regular play sand from HD. Does not work very good. Curious what you're using.
I just inherited an air tank this size but I don’t have the compressor for it. I’m not sure if I want to keep it or sell it. I do want to turn my garage into a small wood shop. It might be too big of a tank for what I’m trying to do and wondering if I should just get a smaller compressor. Do they waste a lot of electricity?
What!!👀👀 Doug are you running 175psi on those hose clamp fittings?!?! What psi rate are those hoses? Hopefully they aren’t heater core hoses. Doug when hooking hose with compressed air that high, go get hydraulic hoses made…tank to tank and tank to air hose reels. I’d like to see hard piping between tanks and point of use. Another thing I’ve done that may work in this application is get a smaller 120vac compressor motor/pump and wire in lag. When you need alittle more volume below 120psi the smaller pump/motor unit comes on to assist the larger compressor. It may only be 3-5scfm but it helps. No power issues with smaller compressor.
All the hoses are 300psi. I didn’t want hard pipe from compressor to compressor because of vibration and causing leaks. That’s why I went with the 300 psi air hose, not heater core hose.
@@OneEyeCustoms hard piping on the walls hooked to compressor via 3/4 high pressure hydraulic hose to negate any vibration transfer. Hoses may be rated for 300 psi but I highly doubt it is with barbed fittings with worm clamps. You need crimped hose ends with this size hose and pressure.
Great video Doug. I see a lot of guys using pex for in-shop air. What do you think of that idea? I think I like your hose and clamp system as anyone can repair it asap.
I looked into PEX, I was told by a plumbing professional, at 150psi and up, don’t use it. Not sure if it matters, but I don’t want anything bursting in my face.
There should be a metal tag or stamped in the tank what the rating is. I think by law, it has to be somewhere on the tank. Both of mine have the stamped tag with the rating.
Hey Doug, I remember on the video that was done regarding your shop tour that your neighbor Adam did, you went over two of the SNAP ON box's but you never showed what was in the third box by your circuit panel in your shop. Any chance of doing a quick review of that box as well?
Hey bud, maybe it's not possible for your situation but I find having the extra tanks in the attic solves some space issues in my own workspace, you do have a lot more space than I do though. Have you ever seen people using pvc for air storage? I seem to recall a video someone did a big zigzag with 4" schedule40 across the underside of their roof and added a significant amount of holding space. Thanks for sharing. I appreciate you
I really thought about putting it in the attic but, it gets extremely hot and cold up there. And water in the tank would freeze in the low point drain and make it useless for the entire winter. PVC is dangerous for high air pressure situations. Schedule 80 is the only PVC that I would even consider for air lines.
@@OneEyeCustoms yeah I understand your concerns with everything you said. You clearly put a lot of thought into things before you act. It's a big reason why I enjoy your videos. Schedule 40 is rated to 240psi for normal use and has a burst rating of 890psi. I think you're right though, if it were lining your walls and it burst you'd be sorry. This just made me think about those plastic air line kits they used to sell at harbor freight a long time ago, I always wondered why they disappeared but this conversation has given me insight. I have a pretty nice jobsite compressor that goes to 190psi and I don't know many people who's shop compressor can top it. Maybe yours can, I know shops that work on trucks or tires usually keep a higher pressure, I keep it at 95 and have a regulator with a line dryer for spraying or when I hook up my plasma cutter. But for running spray guns or da sanders or a sandblaster like yours the scfm is important as is volume.....extra volume is crucial and for all the reasons you laid out in the video. I have a steel tank for filling tires that I modified to be a secondary tank if I'm running a sprayer or sander on a jobsite and I have my grandpa's old compressor tank for extra air storage in my garage. I just saw this video and was thinking of options to reduce the footprint but I certainly dont want to give bad advice. I appreciate you taking the time to respond and your wisdom is greatly appreciated as well
@@OneEyeCustoms the pump doesn't care what phase motor you use. The Baldor motor on your Quincy could have driven the Champion with the correct pulley size.
It makes it very easy to slip on the hose and then it dries. We used to do it with bicycle and motorcycle hand grips. Slippery going on then sticks and stays put.
My shop is always a work in progress of moving things around to make it work more smoothly. Always have to compromise what is more important. Great work, Doug.
Nice addition to your shop! I am glad you included the real world challenges and how you dealt with them. Projects never seem to go exactly as planned. Your shop is very impressive!
Fantastic video Doug. You've got a talent in setting up for max efficiency in everything you do. Thank you for being good counsel with wisdom for others :)
DxXf
at work we moved into an old manufacturing plant that had lots of machines that ran off air. We use very little air and didn't need the giant compressor so we hooked up an air compressor like yours to the existing system which is hundreds of feet of 1" copper line and a 300-400 gallon tank. It works great and every 15' there is a connection to hang a hose drop.
I have a 5 hp 2 stage Ingersoll Rand compressor and the best thing I did was build a shed on the outside of my shop for it so I don't have to hear it running. Nice work Doug!
Also great to have outside-ish in case the tank decides to let go instead of it doing so standing right next to it ...
My dad‘s shop teacher from back in the day did this with a 500 gallon propane tank. You never run out of air. Takes about 10 minutes to pump up in the morning when you turn it on but then you’ve got all the air you would ever need.
its not prohibited these days. got one 650 in action and another waiting to get safed.
@@hardrays Just make sure to put the tank inside a room with explosion-proof walls. Add an automatic drain valve or air dryer if you have more money.
Remember, in the future that Tank will leak or explode. It is better to be safe than sorry. Right now, it is a tank in the future it is a bomb.
@@frostsmaker8966 i just got this new 60 gal compressor and first drain let out rusty water. If they dont even bother to rustproof the inside if these thin wall new products then i cant accept that they are safer than a thick wall tank rated for 400psi working pressure. Periodic requalification by hydrostatic testing with a presure washer at 800psi is my plan and something they never proactively recommend for these indoor foil tanks that the masses are buying these days. I take exception. On a long enough timeline any pressure vessel is a bomb. Retesting is key. Coming from st louis, i am aware of the threat of ballistic boilers, act brazenly but accordingly.
Awesome job your garage looks so neat and organized congratulations
Nice setup also I like the dual drain lines to do blow downs.
For the 3-Phase motor you can use a VFD variable frequency drive that adds the 3rd leg or a dedicated phase converter from either Direct Drives or American Rotary. The extra tank space will be a great help with activities like sandblasting or DA sanding.
Thank you!
It’s 480v
Very nice work, Doug. Yes, I can see where you need the extra capacity. Well worth your time to add that tank. I don't see you ever outworking your new configuration...even using V-style Hi-Flow fittings and larger diameter hoses.
Doug, I did the same thing a year ago and it makes a difference have more storage volume. Nice work shop!
Nice work Doug- Looks like a great setup 👍
Nice video Doug!
That green tank is an 80 gallon manufactured in 1994 with a max of 200psi.
Hoping Dugger installed a blow off valve on that tank also, kinda like tape and paste on fittings...insurance
Yes, there is a blow off on the green tank as well.
Great video, and an awesome workspace! Looks like you put a lot of thought and integrity into your work.
Thank you very much!
Doug I'm pretty sure there's a way to use a 3 phase motor on household current. I have a Jet woodlathe that has a 3 phase motor and it is plugged into a 120v household outlet. I also have my compressor on a contact that works off my light switch. So it only runs when my shop light are on. Great video.
This is exactly what I am looking to do to my garage. Thanks for the tips.
Great vid….love to hear your thoughts on the whole reorganization process. 👍
Excellent job and a truly thorough process!
Thank you kindly!
Wow, what a killer video!!! A couple questions or perhaps considerations for a future video or two. Your blaster cabinet looks like a Harbor Freight? Could you do an in-depth video on the cabinet? Your likes, dislikes, mods or improvements you’ve done to it. I’ve always heard they are pretty, but can leak glass beads and or air. Our zero pee blaster at work was vented to the outside as I remember. We would come to work and it was all installed. I do remember what I would call duct work coming out if the machine and plumbed into the wall or ceiling. I’m retired now so I just don’t recall. The other would be the proper installation of the the hardware for the removing the moisture from the air system. We all know rust is not our friend. You really do have an incredible understanding of these types of issues or anything that threatens a tool. I hope you will consider these video suggestions. I can’t think of another tool that guys would love to have in their garage/shops. Thank you for your knowledge, expertise and willingness to make things better. See you in the next installment.
I bought one of these harbor freight cabinets recently and I have been watching videos on TH-cam and seems like most of the guys are putting these together and caulking all the seams during the assembly phase. To keep the dust from blowing out of the seems of the cabinet. Seem like all those videos the guys were complaining about the mess that cabinet makes during a few hours of work in it. So being able to vent this out the wall and keep the dust from settling on everything in the shop would be such a great help I don't want to repaint my cars or have to tarp them every time I want to use that cabinet. I have yet to put mine together I figured that would be my winter project at least one of them. I did pick up two different medias walnut and 80 grit silica to blow through this cabinet and a few benjies that I can drain it into and change the media easier. Glad I got to catch this video now I know what I'm doing with my air system prior to getting that particular cabinet up and running. Definitely following to see what people are suggesting to add. Thanks for the great content keep up the good work your shot looks really good.
@@vicswanby454 Hi Vic, I’m not sure what kind of caulk to use. I know the toughest stuff I’ve ever used is called Vulkem. I used it to attach and seal threshold’s.
I've been using stuff called "through the roof" for years and it seems to stick real well to metal and it makes a great seal for the last 20 years I've been building post frame buildings in the Inland Northwest we have every season here and when I use that stuff I don't have to go back to those jobs to fix anything I have fixed holes in roofs with that you can get it in clear and in white. The video that I had watched the guy just used cheap caulk but I think someone can do better than that and use something that's got some durability to it because it's going to be in a blast cabinet I'd want to use the best stuff I could.
I always use tape and pipe dope . Can't stand leaks. Great job as always.
Maybe you should consider putting a relay on your power to the compressor, switch it on with your lighting circuit. Your compressor would only have power If the lights are on day or night . Chasing air leaks is a never ending battle. I have a 60 gal tank but not installed yet for this same setup. GREAT VIDEO!
I agree, more than one place has burned down from a runaway compressor.
Nice job I have an extra large tank and have been toying with the idea of extra capacity
I was worth it for me!!
Doug again, a great relocation job. 🤠
Hi Doug, another great video with great shop ideas! I ran across a video the other day on how to make a compressor much more quiet through the use of a homemade muffler / silencer. Search for "Silence your air compressor CHEAP!" for the video. Might give you some ideas on how to fabricate one for your situation with the stock filter next to that cabinet. Seems to work wonders in cutting down the decibels emitted. Paul in Central TX.
Doug your a very talented man as they say a jack of all trades a master of none but you have mastered a lot of things threw the years 😊❤
Good.
I was replacing the 4 tiny factory air filters once a week at work. 2 compressors. I made an intake to go from 1 to the 4 spots & plumbed it outside. I also made a housing to use an automotive air filter that is outside. Wow, what a huge difference in noise & now I replace the cheap filter once a year.
If it was my choice, I would put them in a utility room where no one would hear them.
Setup a radiator style air dryer system and install it between the compressor and the tank. Make sure to have a drain valve before going into the tank, so you can drain the water from the line. They work great and will keep the water out of your tank and tools!
FUNNY YOU put Out this video just now I'm getting ready to try and do the same thing with a 29 gallon and a 20 gallon thanks I've been looking for a video like this there's quite a few of them out there like your shop a lot very well organized and neat wish I could have a shop that big and it's nice thanks for the video
One thing I do wish you would do is show more in detail in the video of how you do this thanks
Awesome addon/upgrade! As always, professionally executed and visually appealing. Better put a stopper for that door so the hose reel handle or air valves don't go thru the door's glass.
My son already tested that out. 🤬 it bent the PSI gage. Yes, I need to build a solid stop point for it. Thanks for watching!
Wow, I am amazed to see folks ignoring the fact that condensation can be addressed and eliminated from your tank in the first place. Water inside your tank is your number one enemy for tank life. By adding a cheap effective cooling radiator in front of your compressor pulley (cooling air being drawn across it) you effectively eliminate the air differentials. Simply re-pipe the compressor head to it first, add a water separator, pipe it back to the tank and viola, NO More Water in your tank. Total cost all in is less than $150.
Good looking setup 👍
Love the setup. I have an add on that you may research for your system. On your S.O. cord coming from the panel, I saw that you are using 4 wire. In that case you can pickup the Neutral, and one side load hot leg @ magnetic switch and run 120 volt Automatic Drain Valve and then pipe to outside. No more ball valves to remember to drain. If your tanks are relatively clean on the inside, it'll be very little maintenance, in my experience. By using one hot leg, and neutral from your Mag switch, the drain valve only discharges when Motor turns on. Super Trick...I think timer discharge can go from .5 sec to 45 second thereabouts. I didn't like having the drain valve plugged into the wall and bleeding system pressure while I was away, or having to remember to unplug, or install switch. In a continuous Industrial Environment it's fine to leave valve going, but residential not so much. I've never seen anyone do it that way, but came up with it on my Compressed Air Journey. P.S. Of course to run one Valve you'll have to tee the tanks together.
Ok but what about the slushy machine? 😂
I edited that conversation out! Lol
All i took from this video is that i want a slushy.
That’s not just any slushy machine, that’s a Slush Puppie. Immediately took me back in time. Loved that stuff. 😃
Will not work , two different colors,lol
@Spicer Designs well now you know where to come get one.
I’m super excited to see what you’ve done with the expansion air storage tank. Thanks for sharing. Your shop looks amazing.
Thanks so much!
Smart move..i wish i had a120 gal tank as well..i see the green one at 80 gal ..I have a home shop..too..but i put a inground lift in my garage..so i need the air..i have a 3 h.p. 2 stage compressor..so it runs on 220 30 amps ..not a 50 amp double ..im a one man shop at home great video. Just fix your air filter..so u can open your cabinet..the longer u extended your air intake ,the quieter your unit runs..as i did the same.
I also use teflon then pipe dope on my air lines. Never a leak. Nice to see that I'm not the only one.
Always better than just tape.
You can definitely use a smaller lower capacity/psi tank as a secondary. It's just about hooking it up correctly. Regulators backflow valves... In many ways to do this
Compressed air storage is one of the cheapest ways to increase the efficiency of a compressed air system. A mainline loop will also increase performance. In industrial settings you can get by with a smaller compressor as the air accumulator will store enough air to get you through short periods of high demand.
Sick shop my man!
One thing i learned about sand blasting is higher pressure is not best. It destroys the medium and turns it to dust where you cant see anything
You have a ridiculous awesome shop. Serious envy going on here 😅
100 gal shelf platform! Ever thought about a 50x120 shop with 5 bays, 3 -2 post lifts, loft area for storage, wife's hobby room, then maybe you'll have enough room. Lol!
Air leaks or not, it's good practice to turn off the power to your compressor when you finish for the day.
Great point!
You talked about everything but how to hook up a secondary tank.
Great job!
Nice work Doug, great addition. I think I speak for everyone when I ask the most important question…… what’s in the white wall cupboard next to the new tank location!!???!!
I did built in shelves, the wall is 12” thick so I built in 6” deep shelves.
Oh yea, car cleaning supplies go in them.
Nice job 👍
clean, clean job
Thank you!
tHANK YOU FOR SHARING ALL THAT GOOD INFO.
You are welcome, thanks for watching!
Great video, How long does it take to fill both tanks from empty compared to just the 60 gal. tank???
I’m not 100% sure, but I never completely empty the tanks.
I checked on some blank tank prices before and they seemed nearly as much as just getting a whole other compressor, while a higher cfm pump + motor seemed actually cheaper
Looks good
Have you considered an automatic tank drain? Does a great job of keeping the moisture out of your tanks. Also, I highly recommend the Tacoma Company upgrade to your Harbor Freight blast cabinet. The best upgrade I've done. Looks like you've done some type of changes to it, but hard to tell what it is.
Is the Tacoma company upgrade something I can TH-cam?
@@OneEyeCustoms Yes, it is. It's actually just under Harbor Freight Blast Cabinet upgrades, I think. There are several videos out on it. Not a cheap upgrade and might be something you could do on your own, but it's a game changer on these cheap blast cabinets.
th-cam.com/video/kwHt4ZRnxAI/w-d-xo.html
Hey if you still have that motor and pump I’m interested. My tank went down at the shop due to the power company letting the neutral safety wire break off the pole. I caused pretty good damage and they won’t help me get the property back that they destroyed.
Where are you located?
@@OneEyeCustoms I’m located in Tampa,FL
If the pump turns over smoothly, I could absolutely use the pump and flywheel pulley. My 86' 3 cylinder Dayton W pump in on its last leg. Thanks, Larry HSV, AL
You can email me at oneeyecustoms22@gmail.com if you are interested in the pump. Yes it works fine, just no 3 phase power here.
@@OneEyeCustoms e-mail sent 12/27
@Larry Tonini sorry, I did see the email and got busy and forgot to reply.
i have a old L P gas tank 120 gal it outside ran pipe in the wall hooked into the 80 gal air tank can run both or just one
Excellent planning to do the same
Hi Doug tried this set up today after watching your video.
How does your sandblaster work now and what size nozzles?
What is your pressure switch set at and what is the manual pressure valve set at? Thanks.
It works great now.
.210 did nozzle
It kicks on at around 100psi and off at 160psi.
The new set up works perfect for my set up!
Hey Doug great video. Curious: how did you get those things moved around? Can’t imagine you shimmied them over the floor tiles without buckling it all up. Dolly? Not seeing casters
Used a heavy duty tilt dolly. It worked out well with help from my son.
Nice job buddy!! I was waiting for part when you tested the new set up using the sandblasting cabinet. What’s the difference between the single tank and new set up? How long compressor takes to kind on while you’re sandblasting? Thanks bro.
It is so much better with the second tank, several times when sandblasting I would look over at the compressor and wonder when it was going to kick on. A second holding tank is the way to go for sure!
@@OneEyeCustoms I’m going that route! Thank you for the info and for the great video! I subscribed to your channel already.
Good work
Nice job
Hi! Great vid! I have an old 26 gallon Husky air compressor that just bit the bullet. As I’m looking for replacements, it dawned on me that I’d have to throw away the original tank once the newer 20 gal one arrived. Found this vid while searching for 2 tank/1 compressor systems in the hopes of not throwing away the old one...
Since this vid is a year old, any chance of doing an update on your two-tank setup? How it’s been, what you’d change, etc?
Keep up the kick ass vids! I’m off to check out more!
🙌🏼
It works perfect for everything I use it for and wouldn’t change a thing!!
Hook that old tank up and enjoy!
Nice setup. I have the same Quincy compressor. If you still have your old compressor and motor, look up "The compressor guru" here on youtube. I think he is near you, and he might be interested in it.
Man you could have sold that big compressor for 2-3k and bought a tank for 1-2 hundred! I just bought a nice Kellog 80 gallon tank for $100 to build a big single phase 220v that will push 20-23 cfm. That welded tag on the front lower left side of the casco tank should have the tank size and max psi stamped on it.
Doug, could you help me with the parts needed to add the drain lines to the drain valves? Not having much luck in the big box stores...
I guess it depends on what compressor you have. Mine have 1/4 npt pipe thread bottom fittings in the tank. I remove the plug and add some fittings as well as a ball valve with a barbed fitting, attach the appropriate air hose and that’s all you really need.
Hope this helps a bit.
I have the same compressor. It looks like you took a short flowzilla air hose and removed one end, attached it to the compressor drain. If not, after looking at it, it appears that might also be a solution.
What about using a 3/4” whip hose with one swivel end to connect the two tanks rather than using hose clamps?
Nice setup Doug. Curious as to why hair spray on hose ends?
It helps the hose slip on much easier then dries. A lubricant would always stay slippery and not give good holding power.
As kids we did it with bicycle and motorcycle hand grips. Works very well!!
@@OneEyeCustoms well, today I learned... thank you Doug!
@@OneEyeCustoms I remember doing that on motorcycle and bicycle grips. Man that's been awhile!
Funny when people in America don’t have 3 phases in the garage house because here in Finland every single house has 3 phases and I think they have to have it for some reason. I’m not an electrician so I don’t know why we have it but I know every house has it. 😂
Thought I would explain to you why this is, three phase happens to be more efficient as far as electricity use. You used to be able to get three phase pre-World War II. However, the utility companies realized that by not allowing three phase hook up to homes they could increase the amount of electricity sold by volume of amp/hour volume. Very few people realize why three phase was done away with by the utility companies. It was about money now that they want more efficient and “green“ initiatives. It’s kind of ironic what free phase everywhere would’ve done for the overall load on the power grid. This is based on a study done by an electrical engineering professor I got an opportunity to read his journal article on it that ended up in an electrical engineering academic journal. As I flipped through it because it was the only thing available while I was in a waiting room all the other magazines were taken, and I grabbed it thinking might as well check it out and then learned the history of why no three phases in the US. After I read it. I spoke with my father who worked on power generation on two aircraft carriers and ran a local municipalities power plant once leaving the Navy. He confirmed it and he said there is one house in the town that is on three phase and it’s known as the Berry Mansion. All other houses were converted away from three phase except for this house because Mr. Barry was a very influential man (read powerful) and his family is still very influential. Three phase electric motors. Also last a lot longer. I remember going down to the Industrial Electric Motor supply on by a guy that ended up being my father‘s best friend after he retired completely and he said he did not rewound a three phase motor in over 30 years and we used to have a lot of manufacturing companies most of the work and supplies they ordered or switches never part of the three phase motors.
Wow kinda painful to watch but I like the idea. Looks fairly good but I’m thinking you need a cooling coil to prevent the moisture from collecting in your tanks to begin with.
Good video Doug do you still have the other compressor I'm interested if you do
I do, but I will not ship it. It is in NW PA. Email me if you feel like a road trip. oneeyecustoms22@gmail.com
What type of line did you use to connect tank #1 to tank #2 in beetween?
Did you use black pipe or rubber?
300 psi heavy duty rubber.
I wonder if you could add a double-v pulley to the blue motor and run both compressors on 1 motor. Perhaps that is not a good idea, but that is the first rhought that occurred to me. It doesn't seem that that motor is working very hard, just pulling 1 compressor.
Where are you located? My 80gal Ingersol Rand has a ceased piston and would be interested in your extra parts
North west Pa. Close to Erie Pa
17:13 a union plumber once told me this is the way....only done it this way since. Haven't had a leak yet
Love the content Doug!
Have you thought about getting a mic to attach to your shirt or hat or something? The sound is hit or miss sometimes. Just a suggestion.
I am planning on doing the same thing.. just need to find a good tank. I have a used pool filter it's fairly big. Do you think I could use that?
I’m not sure a pool filter will hold that kind of pressure, be careful with that idea.
@@OneEyeCustoms that is why I asked.. can't find any information if it can or not
Oh, meant to ask....what kind of sand do you use in your blaster? I have a little gun blaster that I've always used silica sand in. Can't find silica sand anywhere so I use regular play sand from HD. Does not work very good. Curious what you're using.
I get the sand from either harbor freight or tractor supply. For the things I do, either works great for me
@@OneEyeCustoms I'll check. Thanks
Looks aot ike what i just bought.. which can be wired as either a sinlge or three phase
Do you still have the 3 Phase.
Engineer & pump?What would you want for it
Yes I still have it.
I will not ship it, too heavy for that. Are you close to Northwest PA?
@@OneEyeCustoms Non california
Just doing a job but I could get away with just adding another tank. Like I've seen you was doing. And that's a good idea. Thank you.
What cfm are you putting out with that Quincy? Also is adding a tank increasing that cfm or just the capacity?
15 cfm @ 175 psi. It does not increase the CFM, but it more than doubles the capacity. It has worked very well for me with the set up.
I just inherited an air tank this size but I don’t have the compressor for it. I’m not sure if I want to keep it or sell it. I do want to turn my garage into a small wood shop. It might be too big of a tank for what I’m trying to do and wondering if I should just get a smaller compressor. Do they waste a lot of electricity?
They only waste electricity if you have leaks in the system and it runs when you are not consuming air.
Does it take longer for the compressor to kick back on to refill the tanks?
Absolutely, about twice as long. It is a perfect set up for how I use it.
Sweet!! Great for painting I bet might find me another 10gal tank to add to mine
What!!👀👀 Doug are you running 175psi on those hose clamp fittings?!?! What psi rate are those hoses? Hopefully they aren’t heater core hoses. Doug when hooking hose with compressed air that high, go get hydraulic hoses made…tank to tank and tank to air hose reels. I’d like to see hard piping between tanks and point of use.
Another thing I’ve done that may work in this application is get a smaller 120vac compressor motor/pump and wire in lag. When you need alittle more volume below 120psi the smaller pump/motor unit comes on to assist the larger compressor. It may only be 3-5scfm but it helps. No power issues with smaller compressor.
All the hoses are 300psi. I didn’t want hard pipe from compressor to compressor because of vibration and causing leaks. That’s why I went with the 300 psi air hose, not heater core hose.
@@OneEyeCustoms hard piping on the walls hooked to compressor via 3/4 high pressure hydraulic hose to negate any vibration transfer.
Hoses may be rated for 300 psi but I highly doubt it is with barbed fittings with worm clamps. You need crimped hose ends with this size hose and pressure.
What muffler did you use on the blue compressor? I am looking at changing mine to something a little better.
I just extended it and used the bigger one from the green tank.
Great video Doug. I see a lot of guys using pex for in-shop air. What do you think of that idea? I think I like your hose and clamp system as anyone can repair it asap.
I looked into PEX, I was told by a plumbing professional, at 150psi and up, don’t use it. Not sure if it matters, but I don’t want anything bursting in my face.
Nice👍
I wanna do the same thing.. not sure what the psi rating is on the non motor tank
Cant u just put a pressure reg in line?
There should be a metal tag or stamped in the tank what the rating is. I think by law, it has to be somewhere on the tank. Both of mine have the stamped tag with the rating.
Hey Doug, I remember on the video that was done regarding your shop tour that your neighbor Adam did, you went over two of the SNAP ON box's but you never showed what was in the third box by your circuit panel in your shop. Any chance of doing a quick review of that box as well?
Hey bud, maybe it's not possible for your situation but I find having the extra tanks in the attic solves some space issues in my own workspace, you do have a lot more space than I do though. Have you ever seen people using pvc for air storage? I seem to recall a video someone did a big zigzag with 4" schedule40 across the underside of their roof and added a significant amount of holding space. Thanks for sharing. I appreciate you
I really thought about putting it in the attic but, it gets extremely hot and cold up there. And water in the tank would freeze in the low point drain and make it useless for the entire winter. PVC is dangerous for high air pressure situations. Schedule 80 is the only PVC that I would even consider for air lines.
@@OneEyeCustoms yeah I understand your concerns with everything you said. You clearly put a lot of thought into things before you act. It's a big reason why I enjoy your videos. Schedule 40 is rated to 240psi for normal use and has a burst rating of 890psi. I think you're right though, if it were lining your walls and it burst you'd be sorry.
This just made me think about those plastic air line kits they used to sell at harbor freight a long time ago, I always wondered why they disappeared but this conversation has given me insight.
I have a pretty nice jobsite compressor that goes to 190psi and I don't know many people who's shop compressor can top it. Maybe yours can, I know shops that work on trucks or tires usually keep a higher pressure, I keep it at 95 and have a regulator with a line dryer for spraying or when I hook up my plasma cutter. But for running spray guns or da sanders or a sandblaster like yours the scfm is important as is volume.....extra volume is crucial and for all the reasons you laid out in the video. I have a steel tank for filling tires that I modified to be a secondary tank if I'm running a sprayer or sander on a jobsite and I have my grandpa's old compressor tank for extra air storage in my garage. I just saw this video and was thinking of options to reduce the footprint but I certainly dont want to give bad advice. I appreciate you taking the time to respond and your wisdom is greatly appreciated as well
Hello do you still have the extra parts for the compressor available?
Yes I do, but I will not ship them.
I live in North West Pa.
Do you still have the compressor and motor I'm looking for a 3 ph motor and compressor
I do, but I will not ship it. To heavy and too many pieces. You can email me for more info. oneeyecustoms22@gmail.com
Nice job, but I believe you were better off using the made in USA Champion pump
I do not have 240v 3 phase here at the house. The champion pump was not an option.
@@OneEyeCustoms the pump doesn't care what phase motor you use. The Baldor motor on your Quincy could have driven the Champion with the correct pulley size.
Great job with the modification, what all do you have going on there? Why don’t you just bring in the third leg?
It is not available in my residential area. Very few homes here have 3 phase available.
Hmmmm...Slushie Machine or Airtank.....I probably would have kept the slushie machine. Nice shop BTW
Thanks! The slushy machine was my wife’s idea. It is a big hit with the kids. Even the adult ones!
Do u have the motor still?
I do
Have my 60 gal tied into a 30 gal.
Your shop is to clean, what the charge these days for maid service?
how much for the three phase stuff
No idea yet.
whats with the hair spray?
It makes it very easy to slip on the hose and then it dries. We used to do it with bicycle and motorcycle hand grips. Slippery going on then sticks and stays put.
I went to Atlas-Copco Air School for vacuum pumps. Compressed air leaks are expensive. Vacuum leaks are 25 times more expensive.
They sure are!!!