Word from someone who used to make blast resistant fighting positions- instead of filling with grout, fill with sand. Sand will help disipate the force through shock seperatiin, grout can inside the wall can become its own shrapnel as it has no way to spread an impact or detonation. Same reason we use hesco barriers filled with sand for perimeters in combat zones. The sand will get thrown everuwhere, but wont cause harm.
Im glad I read this comment before I asked why Scott didnt fill every cell with mortar. The sand idea is just one of things ya would not think of unless you have "been there and done that"! Wonderful sugestion!!!! What are your thoughts on filling the open cells with sand?
@The Kikendall - either that or pack sandbags between the block wall and the shop; if the tank should rupture the sandbags should adsorb the blast that the blocks don't. I.M.H.O. :)
I once worked in a shop whose airlines were plumbed with pvc. The fire marshal made us rip it all out and use galvanized pipe because of the fire hazard and noxious fumes associated with the pvc if there was a fire. The galvanized pipe was definitely better. No more blowouts. I hope the PEX airlines stay together for you. Love the channel.
The local dive shop, where I lived in NZ, had the tank stood on end. It was a massively built item. Working pressure was close to four thousand psi for recharging steel diving tanks. One day the top of the tank blew off and the resulting release of pressure blew out the side of the building but a blast wall deflected most of the blast away from workers. The cylinder top went up through the roof and was found half a mile away. Could have been a tragedy but for the correct installation. Great content in your channel! 👍
@@Nevir202 . It was deflected slightly sideways when it clipped a roof I-beam. This was the the opinion of the marine department (used to be a government department)when they did their investigation.
Scott... you are the grandfather I never had. I am the black sheep of my family and became a tradesman. Because of your videos over the past four years I have turned myself around from a failing at a career in Healthcare into an accomplished trades person. You give more than technical and practical advice from your videos. Thank you very much from the bottom of my heart sir.
Don't forget that many black sheep arent the black sheep, they just think that. Families are made up of people and people generally think about themselves. They arent thinking about you at all let a lone what a screw up you are. Families are also kust a construct so if you aren't getting the treatment you deserve get out of there. You dont owe anyone anything just because they are family
There are a whole lot of things I didn't know how to do before I tried to do them. The willingness to fail a time or two definitely helps. I also enjoy TH-cam for this. I call it getting "TH-cam Certified". If I don't know how to do something, there's usually somebody on YT who can tell me where to start, and what to look for. Then I have a fighting chance at doing something correctly.
Is great content as always Scott. One hint I can give you is that my dad always kept an old traffic cone in the truck so when we had to fill concrete wall forms that were narrow 4" or less or or block wall we would tip the cone upside down and have a nice big funnel to be able to pour from a bucket. He had it cut the end off so that it was actually like a 3" funnel and worked great, not sure what happened to it but that thing worked forever and we never wore out.
The pipe wrench and come-along trick is definitely something my Dad and I have done on the farm...and it seems like something Phil would do too. Necessity is the mother of invention.
Functionally operates just as it should th-cam.com/users/postUgkxiiMg_x4gIWeXMWfBnDdRnME4qJUAva4w holds pressure perfectly when not in use. Glad one of the other reviews pointed out that the bottom pressure release valve was open; thought it was defective at first.
Pro tip for block and brick laying….. best thing for pointing is a 5” length of regular garden hose. It leaves a perfect concave joint and you can wipe it clean afterwards
My dad was a good guy, but not very mechanically inclined. My dad used to teach me about life, friends, education and music... I just wanted to tell you Essential Craftsmen there are probably alot of young men out there who didn't have a dad or lost their did like I did and appreciate your content so very much. boys and girls, men and women, we can all learn something from this humble, kind, well spoken and gentle craftsmen. Thanks for all that you do EC
I am a Diesel Tech, and when I have a tight fitting or bolt I will get my hammer and tap/strike the end of the handle of my wrench to knock the fitting loose. Much safer that yanking or exerting tremendous force in case it loosens all of a sudden.
I repair electrical motors, overall elektromechanical maintenance on industrial gear and we do full revisions and repairs of reduction cases and other machines. The technical tap is standard, but if it really doesn’t want to come off you bring out the 55ton hydraulic ram lol. We have used 15ton hydraulic enerpacs (lever actuated, so basically a jack) to loosen shit up as well. Was probably one of the more sketchy things, as it could have sent the wrench flying. It was a 95mm slogging spanner. If that took off it would take ur skull with it 💀 If just brute force doesn’t do the trick. A oxy-acetylene torch is never far away 🤷♂️
Air compressor technician here, pex gets very brittle after exposure to the oil vapor from a portable comp. Yes there is a separator but without a coalescing filter and an activated charcoal filter it will still send oil downstream
Is that just with a portable compressor like he has or is that with normal compressors too? I want to put my compressor in the basement and run pex tube through the wall, is that going to be a safety issue?
@@imtired8004 get the blue air line system, come in straight and flexible lengths. i used pex for a couple years, 1st year no worries. but every year after that the anxiety grows because you know its not the right thing to do haha. luckily i never had a problem and ran it for about 3 years. i think i used rapid air products, there are a few companies. worth the money, easy, doesnt leak and never have to worry... and if you move you can take it apart and re-use it.
@@imtired8004 if you put a coalescing filter before the pex it would probably be fine especially if you dont use it a lot. if its a hour or two every other weekend you could probably get away with it but i would still be mindful of it getting brittle over time
I work on air compressors that run 24/7. The auto drain is a great idea; I recommend laying it over so that liquids do not have to travel uphill to purge. I’ve had oils get stuck in such a “trap” before and it caused nasty clogs that I had to take the unit out of service to clear.
Had the ultimate air tank at the large slaughter house that I worked at. They had a railroad siding off the main track and purchased a maybe 75' long tanker car They installed this giant tank outdoors and feed it with 300 to 350 HP of air compressors. Had 6" pipe coming off it to feed a loop around kill floor. When there was no production on a Saturday would fill the tank up to 140 PSI then shut all of the air compressors off. Could run several air tools for hours before pressure dropped too low to run them. Tank was pitched so we made sure to open drain up every Saturday at end of workday. Tried using air pressure to blow ground up bones & guts into large cookers but did not have enough power but 125# of steam did a great job blowing stuff a few hundred feet to cookers. We always had two pressure valves on every large air storage tanks just in case one failed to operate properly. OSHA made companies greatly reduce the output pressure on hand held air guns. The old ones were very dangerous in that they would remove the paint off of surfaced and give you a nice scrape. Would treat these old air guns like gold. The timer drain is the best automatic tank drain. Saw too many float type clog up stop working. Nice vid. Great ideal using galvanised pipe instead of cheaper black pipe that produces too much internal rust.
Mr. Scott, just a quick FYI. Your big Sawzall/recip saw makes for a great, quick substitute when you need a vibrator for small concrete project! Take out the blade, touch the guide to a wooden surface and squeeze that trigger! Voila! Vibrator sub. Looking forward to seeing how the new carpentry shop turns out! Good days to you and yours, sir!
Glad to see that pex get tied down. WHEN that stuff breaks under the constant strain of compressed air, it'll beat the snot out of you before you can get away if it's just left to drop in a single run from the ceiling. As usual great work EC.
You sir with the pipe wrench and hand winch brought back a memory with my grandfather doing something similar. That was cool. Necessity creates invention.
5:08 - I really appreciate hearing this it is so true. I have a successful side business as a carpenter and handyman and I do nearly everything because of not being afraid of trying new things over the years. One of the things I found is if you are good with your hands have a good understanding on how things work motivation to learn and try new things you can basically do anything and be pretty good at it the first time. The more you learn to do the better understanding that spills over into other things. Like a friend says about everything "its not rocket science"
@@OU81TWO I always keep that in mind whether I do new jobs or jobs Ive done a hundred times. If anyone doesn't they have become complacent and will get bit in the ass.
People always think the worst. Your correct nothing bad is going to happen,stay positive. Sounds like to me you've got it all figured out,I bet the grand kids really enjoy watching you make things.
I've known people who would use old 250 and 500 gallon propane tanks for air tanks... Best I remember, they were rated for over 300 psi (not sure what additional safety margin they used)... They can often be acquired for free or just scrap metal price if the owner is no longer using propane appliances or maybe if it has a slight leak... Often the leak is minor enough that it's easy to repair with nothing more than a quick stick welder to the affected spot... Of course, you should properly purge any tank that contains combustible liquids or gases prior to welding on it... If not, be sure to create a video so that your heirs can post it on TH-cam... ;-)
I just one hour ago poured a small motorcycle ramp. I picked up some rotten boards and more or less "hemmed " in the concrete. Looks awful but will work, and my wife likes it. Having poured concrete and done things perfect for other people, I am now too worn down to do it right for me. You did a good job laying blocks. The sharp edge of a 24" 2x4 or a 16p nail head sticking out of said 2x4 will work fine for jointing blocks. Good job. I noticed your inspector was there, also. My inspector has been with me 45 yrs. Best wishes. Boofer
One thing to remember, it is the ends of pressure vessels that usually fail. I would personally make a "blow off" patch above the tank in the roof. How do you plan to seismically support the tank so it does not tip over in a seismic event? Here in Seattle, we would have to bolt the tank to the slab.
Fellow blacksmith here :) I wrap all my air fittings with Hercules Megatape and then give em a wipe down with Hercules Megaloc pipe dope. It's been working well for me. There was a buy one get one free sale (or something like that) at Lowes last time I needed pipe tape. I'm happy with it. It's good tape. Most of my fittings are done on air tools and I don't want to torque them down enough that pipe dope on it's own does the job. Buy a borescope. They are extremely cheap on Amazon. Mine plugs into my phone. I use it for all kinds of stuff. Checking inside walls, plumbing, compressor tanks, engines, etc. I paid under $20 for it and I've had it for about 6 or 7 years. It's waterproof, too. If you're ever concerned with a compressor tank, fill it COMPLETELY with water. No air allowed (well, not a lot of air, anyway). Hook a high pressure gage and a pressure washer to the tank. Use the pressure washer to get the tank up to 600 PSI. No rupture and you're good for 200 PSI. If you're VERY paranoid, go to 800 PSI. Water is not compressible, so there is very little potential energy stored in the pressure vessel in this state. Most of the potential energy will elasticity in the hoses and in the steel tank, itself.
Add an automotive muffler to your air intake on compressor. Cut your noise in half. Make sure you put a functional or new pop valve ( pressure relief valve) on compressor to avoid over pressuring system
Be a bit hard to do on an atlas copco diesel air compressor- the compressors near silent the 2 cylinder (likely deutz) makes all the noise as the compressors a rotary screw
@@aayotechnology its all about the consumption in his power hammer - a smaller compressor would technically run it but it would be far slower and become impractical to use - we have a 2 ton casing hammer at work that requires approx. 200 cfm at 100 psi to cycle 50 times a minute - and thats only relying on air to lift 400mm (16inches) and uses gravity for its drop - we can use a smaller compressor in a pinch but she gets real slow reaaaalllllll fast and requires adjustments to its timing system to cope
I'm in Washington and Oregon's law are very similar. I have 2 air tanks at my work and i have the state come and do the required inspections every 2 years as required. If i recall it's for any pressure vessel over 60 or 80 gallons, business or personal. The inspector comes with a little thickness meter and takes a half dozen measurements of the tank wall thickness and slaps a sticker on them if they pass. It doesn't cost much at all, keeps the bossiness in compliance and keeps everyone safe.
I'm a retired Journeyman Nuclear Grade Steamfitter Weldor out of Plumbers & Steamfitters Local Union 598 Pasco Washington. When I saw you with that rigging setup I just smiled and remembered what a Journeyman told me as a first year apprentice.. " Work smarter not harder, these tools will do all the work for you if you use them"! LOL! Nothing to be ashamed of good job!
For the record, come-along’s are definitely meant for pipe wrenches. I’ve had opposing 36’s on a 3” threaded union using a come-along to keep tension while I used a torch and hammer on the nut. You make do with what you’ve got.
I always wondered why they had the big hole in end. Seemed a bit oversized for hanging it on a wall. Apparently, the pipe wrench manufacturer's know someone will want to put a come along on the end of the wrench.
I spent 5 years OTR and all my tools were in storage. I then moved. Three years and still haven’t had time to organize a work area in the garage of my new home. Tools are in storage bins and I spend more time looking for them than some projects require to do. It’s defeating and I end up not doing anything. However, as I get things set up little at at time, I can appreciate the small advances in organization. Your striker issue reminds me of this .today I locked myself out of my house. I could have used my grinder to make a tool to unlock the latch in the garage door. But have no idea where my grinder is. I need to make a work bench to mount my grinder. So pop-a-lock got $50 today.
There have been quite a few compressor tank disasters on TH-cam lately.Quite an eye opener. Prompted me to decommission my 25 year old compressor tank and get a new compressor.The new portable compressor came with a warning/advisory to decommission the tank in 10 years (2031) CHEERS from Westcoast Canada!
Looks nervously over at my at least 50+ year old Ingersoll Rand air compressor with its 120 gallon tank set at 150 psi sitting in the corner of my garage. When my grandfather gave it to me and my dad 10 years ago it must of had 50 gallon of water inside of it. We couldn't figure out why it was so heavy. I'm guessing he never drained it. I do rarely use it maybe once a month and it's never left under pressure. It leaks off over a couple days.
Good idea with adding a timed dryer/drain to the tank. I noticed a ball valve upstream of the timed valve which is a very good addition. If the noise is bothersome one can gate the ball valve a bit to make it a little more quiet. In addition to the noise the water will evacuate more completely at a slower rate. It seems counterintuitive however it seems to be the case. Great video as always, thank you for the content.
Love Scott's ingenuity, comment about just doing something that you don't know how to do - you'll learn to get good at it. Just started some sheet metal work and point taken.
Great work as usual Scott! And thanks for reading the comments and actually taking some of the ideas to heart, so many guys on this platform seem to think they know it all, you are a wise humble guy. Cheers from Tokyo! Stu
I fully agree with your attitude of just going ahead and doing something you aren't terribly good at. It's how I'm teaching myself to run a sewing machine. I'm no tailor-- not even a sailmaker. But I look at the seams I was making a month ago, and the seams I made last night, and there is a world of difference between the two.
Very impressed with your com along method of removing the pip fitting. Ive used a long length of 2 inch pipe to do the same for years but your method is a lot safer.
I watch often, but rarely comment. I really appreciate your statements about just rolling up your sleeves getting in there and doing it! I have learned so much that way over the years. I'm just a few years shy of you age-wise, but I have as much enthusiasm for taking on new skills and challenges as I did when I was a teenage boy. Thank you for reawakening that in me, Scott! 👍🙏
I appreciate this timer drain, it's really awesome, we usually install omega air td16 for our customers, it already have ball valve for mesh filter service. Hope yours have it too, because practice says that drains installed on open-weather conditions receivers needs to be maintained more often than indoor ones. Btw, I'll recommend to install drainage tube or hose on that, to prevent water splashing everywhere.
On the one hand, I like seeing Scott do a project on his own. On the other hand, I don't like seeing Scott work alone. Glad Kenny is there. I see you Ken.
don't forget to soap up fittings to check for leaks, I used to install automotive lifts and compressors for a living, your tank in the ground is not a bomb despite whatever anyone else says, most ground tanks fail at piping not the tank themselves,and when a tank does fail nothing happens except a pin hole, I have removed hundreds of these tanks. I have witnessed a compressor head throwing a piston up through a concrete ceiling that was the floor of the next level. when it comes to compressors let them breath, when people put them in closets or small rooms the heat kills them, automatic tank drains and in line oilers will keep your tools running good. I used to install a one foot length of pipe at each station where air is required with a ball vale to help drain water.
tend to agree with you - but if the underfloor vessel is basically a large pipe with flat disc? ends - then maybe there is a potential for structural failure under pressure??... though i am guessing that the failure would be something like a progressive seam tear - maybe soil and gravel blown around the workshop - but nothing like an "explosion"
@@davidlloyd-jones8519 an explosion would take far more psi then what the air compressor could ever produce, the failure would start from condensation in the tank produced by the compressor, or the process of electrolysis because it is buried in the ground, I used to build gas stations along with air compressors and automotive lifts, the old steel fuel tanks in the ground ha to be tested for cathodic protection, they would have a sacrificial anode in the ground that would attract stray current , same way a water tank in your house or a boat does
My father passed away 5 years ago at the age of 94. On the farm we had a 400 foot water well that had some flamable gas in the water! Dad drilled and tapped a gas line from the water tank to the gas furnance to heat the shop! One day as he was lighting the furnance it dawned on him this could be BAD! If there was a leak. He removed all plumbing and plugged everything off. Yes you made me think about my father, like you did in this video, he fixed it before it blew up.. :)
Yeah, add sandbags. I remember in a shop I worked at, we had a pretty big compressor, and about 200 sewing machines and cutting tables and operators on the same floor (some commercial machines also wanted air). Fortunately, the mechanic had put a heavy wire mesh cage around the machine, plus 3/4" ply. One night, after most folks were gone, (I was there but in a different room), the building shook as the compressor blew. Pretty amazing noise and all. Blew the plywood apart, but the mesh, (we're talking HEAVY stuff, like 1/8" thick or more) mostly held, the plywood fragments in. Somewhat eye opening.
I like the idea of a blast wall,any tank new or old being cycled can go boom. We built a air system like this using four 80 gallon compressor s that had died for many reasons,plumbed the tank in two pairs for the two shops and fed them with a smaller 60 gallon two stage,never run out of air in the mechanism shop or the wood shop. Bigger supply lines help alot to cool air lines down.
What is so impressive is the number of skills that are demonstrated on this channel. This reminds me of a friend who was from the first part of the baby boomer generation. It is amazing the number of skills that were obtained by the common folk of that era.
If you decide to do a pressure test on the tank(s), be sure to fill it/them with WATER (remembering to drain and dry it out afterwards) becaue the water is non-compressible, and there will be just a small amount of air in it for the pressurisation, any failure will just be localised as it will almost instantly drop to atmospheric pressure with only a small amount of water loss.
An 'air system' that does not leak down is a delight! I used to have a Craftsman 220V compressor and that rascal would hold air for months! I miss that guy!! SO good to see KENNY!! Cheers!
might be too late and might be too many comments by now. but i did the block work on my own house and found a lot of benefit from the Perkins Brothers channel. they have some good CMU vids and show how they move their hands/trowel. love your channel
Was a plumber in Florida, usually used copper, PVC and Cpvc, never liked pex until I moved to SD. Now I understand why people like it, it's pliable enough that if water freezes in it, it expands and doesn't burst.👍🏼
I'm really impressed with that tank, I lucked into a couple of large compressor and motor heads, but need a good size tank that's in good shape, and they are definitely hard to come by.
im in aus, we do 4x4ing, but, we dont have the gear you do in u.s., im using large fire extiguishers as air tank, x3. allmost pumps up 4 tires.. 35,s. at 150 psi..tank press. laws are bad here for anything remotly explosive, like a prower tank, inside a vehicle..lpg tanks are bad enough..no way would i use an ex, water tank, . he has 1 small rust corrosion hole. rust flakes off. not even..
After seeing everything you have available to you and the knowledge you possess, I am so glad to hear that you have future generations you can pass that on to.
Good job working the edges on that pad you poured. I seldom see anyone doing that. It certainly helps to have nice looking edges when you remove the boards. Nice job on the block work. I learned by watching my Dad, then by doing my own jobs. You are right, try doing it and learn.
I’m not sure if you ran a UV rated or coated PEX but just be aware standard PEX doesn’t hold up well against UV when used under pressure. I like UV coated PEX-A for air line use as it lasts well and tends to not fail in the field but at the fitting connections.
You are right on if you have never done a task just do it. That’s what I did on laying brick took me and a buddy a long time to complete but very satisfying.🇺🇸🇨🇦🇺🇸
Simplest solutions are sometimes the best but fine work all the same. We use a rupture disk to be a intended weakest link in a system. Unlike a relief valve that can be closed if failure occurs the disk needs replaced and the reason for failure can be diagnosed.
plumber here....thats just how i'd do it! lol Yea i love blue monster pipe dope...if you dont use it for a while it can dry out, but its not bad just add some oil to it to get it going again...
Good evening. I watch all your videos and thoroughly enjoyed every one. Your audio is perfect because you speak so well and your content is excellent. Joe. South Africa
One of the proudest days of my life was setting up my 80gallon 17.8 cfm at 170psi an that was to run pneumatic car detailing equipment among other things but never thought of a water tank for extra capacity. Always learning something from this channel.
Imagine working long enough to amass this much knowledge….then living long enough to incorporate it into these kind of projects for you own swan song shop. Legend.
Can you add some chain link fence around the open end of that tank. Since you did care enough to build a wall, chain link will retain most of the shrapnel around the open end if it ever does blow. That way you really help to contain the blast. Even if it rips away from the block, it will slow it down and catch enough to make it worthwhile. And I am sure you have some chain link left over from a job... Nice work..
Awesome job fixing something that was dangerous before it reared its ugly head. Seems like air tank safety has been highlighted on TH-cam a lot lately, which is excellent.
I used to be a surveyor in the UK, inspecting boilers, compressed air vessels, chemical and oil refineries. In principle there is nothing wrong with repurposing the tank, but its rated maximum working pressure is 125 PSI. You should not be operating the vessel above that pressure. I would normally say to someone that if the max WP was 125, they should run at 120. I have seen air receivers that have passed all external checks, including the safety valve and ultrasonic thickness checks to find on internal inspection that the pitting was so bad I had to condemn them from further use, or reduce the MWP from say 10 bar to 7 bar. At least you are decommissioning your old homemade tank. Stay safe!
Love this channel, the content, and modesty like I've never seen before. Please be sure to check with your friend on getting the correct pressure relief valve, since the one that was on the tank was for a water storage tank. Now you have an air storage tank, and I'm pretty sure the air flow requirement of the pressure relief valve has to be much higher.
Worked in a business where a 3 inch PVC air line failed and blew a 4 foot by 2 foot hole in the block wall that it was attached to. Impressive to say the least.
some very good advice for air tanks open clean and put rust stop in them turning the rust into ferric oxide let dry then put linseed oil in the tank dump out leftovers after it all drys out you now have a tank that will not rot out and is 100% SAFE NOW.
The only exploding receiver tank I ever encountered was a little portable homeowner unit left plugged in while not in use. The shutoff failed and in the owner's absence pumped up until the tank until it burst doing severe damage to the building. To pressure test a vessel in unknown condition, fill it within a quart of air volume with water, rig a 600 pound pressure gauge to the line pumping into the mystery vessel, disconnect the little compressor's shutoff and bypass the tank. 40 years ago I did that with a 82 gallon tank from a salvage yard. Took the pressure up a bit over 300 psi which made it tick and creak. After 30 years under pressure the tank failed with a pinhole leak where the condensate pooled. That's how fraidy-cat po'boys do it.
Great video. An alternative tank, should someone be looking for one, is a propane tank. I they are designed for 250 psi. I have a 125 gallon tank on wheels in my barn, so I can reorganize with ease.
125psi is fairly low pressure in the scheme of pressure vessels. Ordinary pressure vessels have a MINIMUM of a 3-5 to 1 safety factor. This is before the other considerations are factored.... Draining liquid to prevent internal cortisone is more important than any other thing. The masonry wall will prevent impact damage and perhaps sound mitigation. This is my profession. Quit listing to others who don't have any idea what they are talking about. Keep up the great work.
Great video! You absolutly did the right thing 👍Old and corroded pressure vessels can still become good smoker grills or flower pods 🌻🌷 Some suggestions from my professional experience in designing compressor systems up to 5600psi here in Germany: 1. Additional to draining the condensate, you can prevent corrosion inside the tank with lanolin based products like fluidfilm. Actually that is done to high pressure bottles, when contamination with the oil is not an issue. 2. In Europe pressure vessels like yours need to be checked every five years visually and every 10 years filled with water up to 1,5x the rated pressure. With such a big tank it might be worth considering to test it every decade even in domestic use. 3. I really like how much thought you put in the whole installation. You are not that far from industrial standards. With industrial applications it is good practice to have on every pressure vessel: - safety valve/discharge valve set max. to the design pressure of the vessel and with a flow rate at least as high as the compressor that feeds the vessel. - label with data like volume, design pressure. - a pressure gage. - a condensate drain. - a valve to shut the vessel from the System. The last is quite usefull if you need to work on the System but don't want to discharge your vessel or if you do an pressure test. By the way, even though it is not rated for it, regular blue loctite seals threads quite good gastight. Again, great video! Like your channel a lot!
I’d recommend coating the inside with a layer of paint to help prevent rust on the tank in the future. I recently rebuilt an old compressor and tank and did that. Cleaned out the inside with some rock and chain to beat the rust off. Water Pressure tested it to 250psi, help up then coated the inside with 2 layers of paint to seal it all up
When in doubt, run a hydrostatic test. I got a big 'ol tank once, ran a test, and it exploded. It looked perfectly fine, but it had enough internal corrosion that it failed. I could only imagine how powerful, and devastating, that would have been if it was air.
@@MrEric_API That's not sufficient. Industry standard is a hydrostatic pressure test. The inspection as you suggested is the first thing that gets done to ensure it's safe to move onto an actual pressure test. If inspection reveals defects then there's no point in pressure testing. Correct the defects then pressure test.
@@OU81TWO you are incorrect. Let me explain why. An ASME pressure vessel does not require a hydrostatic test, unless it's been modified, which this one has not. (If it was or would need to be by a code dual holder, which he isn't) Those who know pressure vessels understand this fact. Refineries and chemical plants around the world use visual and ultrasonic thickness to determine safe continued service for a pressure vessel. This one is no different. Performing a hydro would perform no extra level of safety, and if it was done incorrectly, would risk damaging this pressure vessel.
I know it would be a lot of work but an autopsy on the old tank would be something I would love to see. Potential failures and what not.
Me too!!!
great idea!
Same here!
Ha, well he might want some help digging if you want to see it that bad!
Take it out to the desert with a few engineers and test it to destruction...
Word from someone who used to make blast resistant fighting positions- instead of filling with grout, fill with sand. Sand will help disipate the force through shock seperatiin, grout can inside the wall can become its own shrapnel as it has no way to spread an impact or detonation. Same reason we use hesco barriers filled with sand for perimeters in combat zones. The sand will get thrown everuwhere, but wont cause harm.
There is no doubt about it. Hescos really do make a difference, and they're bullet-proof too.
Im glad I read this comment before I asked why Scott didnt fill every cell with mortar. The sand idea is just one of things ya would not think of unless you have "been there and done that"! Wonderful sugestion!!!! What are your thoughts on filling the open cells with sand?
@The Kikendall - either that or pack sandbags between the block wall and the shop; if the tank should rupture the sandbags should adsorb the blast that the blocks don't. I.M.H.O. :)
@@HighDesertForgeIronworks the best option now, right? And then you also have filled sandbags handy if there’s a flood.
Brilliant. I learn from others, and some times myself.
I once worked in a shop whose airlines were plumbed with pvc. The fire marshal made us rip it all out and use galvanized pipe because of the fire hazard and noxious fumes associated with the pvc if there was a fire. The galvanized pipe was definitely better. No more blowouts. I hope the PEX airlines stay together for you. Love the channel.
The local dive shop, where I lived in NZ, had the tank stood on end. It was a massively built item. Working pressure was close to four thousand psi for recharging steel diving tanks. One day the top of the tank blew off and the resulting release of pressure blew out the side of the building but a blast wall deflected most of the blast away from workers. The cylinder top went up through the roof and was found half a mile away. Could have been a tragedy but for the correct installation. Great content in your channel! 👍
Lucky the tank top didn't kill anyone when it fell, must have gone at least a half mile up, it it moved half a mile laterally.
@@Nevir202 . It was deflected slightly sideways when it clipped a roof I-beam. This was the the opinion of the marine department (used to be a government department)when they did their investigation.
low pressure systems will not have the same effect. 120 PSI is not a bomb waiting to happen. 2000 PSI is another story.
@@Stan_in_Shelton_WA Try 3000psi or so for most tanks
Would love to see an interview with the man who certifies locomotive boilers! What an interesting career to get into.
No shit, very specific field lol
I'm honestly surprised there is enough work for these niche-specific jobs in the trades.
Not, really, just hard dirty work.
Those videos are on YT, they don't get much views, but they are out there.
@@nickk4010enough to make a living. I've been doing it for almost three decades.
Scott... you are the grandfather I never had. I am the black sheep of my family and became a tradesman. Because of your videos over the past four years I have turned myself around from a failing at a career in Healthcare into an accomplished trades person. You give more than technical and practical advice from your videos. Thank you very much from the bottom of my heart sir.
Don't forget that many black sheep arent the black sheep, they just think that. Families are made up of people and people generally think about themselves. They arent thinking about you at all let a lone what a screw up you are. Families are also kust a construct so if you aren't getting the treatment you deserve get out of there. You dont owe anyone anything just because they are family
There are a whole lot of things I didn't know how to do before I tried to do them. The willingness to fail a time or two definitely helps. I also enjoy TH-cam for this. I call it getting "TH-cam Certified". If I don't know how to do something, there's usually somebody on YT who can tell me where to start, and what to look for. Then I have a fighting chance at doing something correctly.
Is great content as always Scott. One hint I can give you is that my dad always kept an old traffic cone in the truck so when we had to fill concrete wall forms that were narrow 4" or less or or block wall we would tip the cone upside down and have a nice big funnel to be able to pour from a bucket. He had it cut the end off so that it was actually like a 3" funnel and worked great, not sure what happened to it but that thing worked forever and we never wore out.
Great idea. I'm about to run some block for a green house foundation.
Well it's not as if cones are hard to get hold of :)
The pipe wrench and come-along trick is definitely something my Dad and I have done on the farm...and it seems like something Phil would do too. Necessity is the mother of invention.
I've also seen that in the forklift industry..
Might have to tell my mechanics that trick - not sure if the safety department will approve though
@@jk3dad safety squints and keeping your mother on speed dial are recommended.
8' of pipe on the end of that wrench might have done the trick as well.
@@aspees
Yup, that's all I used for jobs like that.
Functionally operates just as it should th-cam.com/users/postUgkxiiMg_x4gIWeXMWfBnDdRnME4qJUAva4w holds pressure perfectly when not in use. Glad one of the other reviews pointed out that the bottom pressure release valve was open; thought it was defective at first.
Pro tip for block and brick laying….. best thing for pointing is a 5” length of regular garden hose. It leaves a perfect concave joint and you can wipe it clean afterwards
This is my favorite part of youtube..... tip and tricks
Ha... that's like a slap on the fore head "why didn't I think of that" kinda tip... cheaper than harbor freight and lasts longer too lol.
My dad was a good guy, but not very mechanically inclined. My dad used to teach me about life, friends, education and music...
I just wanted to tell you Essential Craftsmen there are probably alot of young men out there who didn't have a dad or lost their did like I did and appreciate your content so very much.
boys and girls, men and women, we can all learn something from this humble, kind, well spoken and gentle craftsmen. Thanks for all that you do EC
I am a Diesel Tech, and when I have a tight fitting or bolt I will get my hammer and tap/strike the end of the handle of my wrench to knock the fitting loose. Much safer that yanking or exerting tremendous force in case it loosens all of a sudden.
I repair electrical motors, overall elektromechanical maintenance on industrial gear and we do full revisions and repairs of reduction cases and other machines.
The technical tap is standard, but if it really doesn’t want to come off you bring out the 55ton hydraulic ram lol.
We have used 15ton hydraulic enerpacs (lever actuated, so basically a jack) to loosen shit up as well. Was probably one of the more sketchy things, as it could have sent the wrench flying. It was a 95mm slogging spanner. If that took off it would take ur skull with it 💀
If just brute force doesn’t do the trick. A oxy-acetylene torch is never far away 🤷♂️
Air compressor technician here, pex gets very brittle after exposure to the oil vapor from a portable comp. Yes there is a separator but without a coalescing filter and an activated charcoal filter it will still send oil downstream
Is that just with a portable compressor like he has or is that with normal compressors too? I want to put my compressor in the basement and run pex tube through the wall, is that going to be a safety issue?
@@imtired8004 get the blue air line system, come in straight and flexible lengths. i used pex for a couple years, 1st year no worries. but every year after that the anxiety grows because you know its not the right thing to do haha. luckily i never had a problem and ran it for about 3 years.
i think i used rapid air products, there are a few companies. worth the money, easy, doesnt leak and never have to worry... and if you move you can take it apart and re-use it.
That's what I was thinking. He just created another bomb
@@imtired8004 if you put a coalescing filter before the pex it would probably be fine especially if you dont use it a lot. if its a hour or two every other weekend you could probably get away with it but i would still be mindful of it getting brittle over time
I work on air compressors that run 24/7. The auto drain is a great idea; I recommend laying it over so that liquids do not have to travel uphill to purge. I’ve had oils get stuck in such a “trap” before and it caused nasty clogs that I had to take the unit out of service to clear.
Had the ultimate air tank at the large slaughter house that I worked at. They had a railroad siding off the main track and purchased a maybe 75' long tanker car They installed this giant tank outdoors and feed it with 300 to 350 HP of air compressors. Had 6" pipe coming off it to feed a loop around kill floor. When there was no production on a Saturday would fill the tank up to 140 PSI then shut all of the air compressors off. Could run several air tools for hours before pressure dropped too low to run them. Tank was pitched so we made sure to open drain up every Saturday at end of workday. Tried using air pressure to blow ground up bones & guts into large cookers but did not have enough power but 125# of steam did a great job blowing stuff a few hundred feet to cookers. We always had two pressure valves on every large air storage tanks just in case one failed to operate properly. OSHA made companies greatly reduce the output pressure on hand held air guns. The old ones were very dangerous in that they would remove the paint off of surfaced and give you a nice scrape. Would treat these old air guns like gold. The timer drain is the best automatic tank drain. Saw too many float type clog up stop working. Nice vid. Great ideal using galvanised pipe instead of cheaper black pipe that produces too much internal rust.
That is so cool.
I admire their ingenuity
Damn. I need 3 of those.
You sir are the epitome of a true family man, and that is one big ass air tank. Nice work on the install Scott.
While it is rare to have pressure vessels fail, they fail catastrophically. Something that big, whoaboy lol
@@justtime6736 if done properly there is a low chance of a catastrophical failure.
Mr. Scott, just a quick FYI. Your big Sawzall/recip saw makes for a great, quick substitute when you need a vibrator for small concrete project! Take out the blade, touch the guide to a wooden surface and squeeze that trigger! Voila! Vibrator sub.
Looking forward to seeing how the new carpentry shop turns out! Good days to you and yours, sir!
I just love these folks, and I love the home-grown self-taught do-it-all personalities that made this country great.
Glad to see that pex get tied down.
WHEN that stuff breaks under the constant strain of compressed air, it'll beat the snot out of you before you can get away if it's just left to drop in a single run from the ceiling.
As usual
great work EC.
You sir with the pipe wrench and hand winch brought back a memory with my grandfather doing something similar. That was cool. Necessity creates invention.
Essential Craftsman is a true American hero.
Amen!
Had a good chuckle at "the only good use for a round concrete stake" portion of the video. Great work! Keep it up!
5:08 - I really appreciate hearing this it is so true. I have a successful side business as a carpenter and handyman and I do nearly everything because of not being afraid of trying new things over the years. One of the things I found is if you are good with your hands have a good understanding on how things work motivation to learn and try new things you can basically do anything and be pretty good at it the first time. The more you learn to do the better understanding that spills over into other things. Like a friend says about everything "its not rocket science"
You just have to be careful about knowing just enough to be dangerous.
@@OU81TWO I always keep that in mind whether I do new jobs or jobs Ive done a hundred times. If anyone doesn't they have become complacent and will get bit in the ass.
" It's not rocket science"
Let me guess,your friends name is CMac?
People always think the worst. Your correct nothing bad is going to happen,stay positive. Sounds like to me you've got it all figured out,I bet the grand kids really enjoy watching you make things.
I've known people who would use old 250 and 500 gallon propane tanks for air tanks... Best I remember, they were rated for over 300 psi (not sure what additional safety margin they used)... They can often be acquired for free or just scrap metal price if the owner is no longer using propane appliances or maybe if it has a slight leak... Often the leak is minor enough that it's easy to repair with nothing more than a quick stick welder to the affected spot... Of course, you should properly purge any tank that contains combustible liquids or gases prior to welding on it... If not, be sure to create a video so that your heirs can post it on TH-cam... ;-)
I just one hour ago poured a small motorcycle ramp. I picked up some rotten boards and more or less "hemmed " in the concrete. Looks awful but will work, and my wife likes it. Having poured concrete and done things perfect for other people, I am now too worn down to do it right for me. You did a good job laying blocks. The sharp edge of a 24" 2x4 or a 16p nail head sticking out of said 2x4 will work fine for jointing blocks. Good job. I noticed your inspector was there, also. My inspector has been with me 45 yrs. Best wishes. Boofer
One thing to remember, it is the ends of pressure vessels that usually fail. I would personally make a "blow off" patch above the tank in the roof. How do you plan to seismically support the tank so it does not tip over in a seismic event? Here in Seattle, we would have to bolt the tank to the slab.
Please tell Ken , Sam said Hey from the Appalachian mountains of N.C. ! He's a true Hero to all of us !
Fellow blacksmith here :)
I wrap all my air fittings with Hercules Megatape and then give em a wipe down with Hercules Megaloc pipe dope. It's been working well for me. There was a buy one get one free sale (or something like that) at Lowes last time I needed pipe tape. I'm happy with it. It's good tape.
Most of my fittings are done on air tools and I don't want to torque them down enough that pipe dope on it's own does the job.
Buy a borescope. They are extremely cheap on Amazon. Mine plugs into my phone. I use it for all kinds of stuff. Checking inside walls, plumbing, compressor tanks, engines, etc. I paid under $20 for it and I've had it for about 6 or 7 years. It's waterproof, too.
If you're ever concerned with a compressor tank, fill it COMPLETELY with water. No air allowed (well, not a lot of air, anyway). Hook a high pressure gage and a pressure washer to the tank. Use the pressure washer to get the tank up to 600 PSI. No rupture and you're good for 200 PSI. If you're VERY paranoid, go to 800 PSI.
Water is not compressible, so there is very little potential energy stored in the pressure vessel in this state. Most of the potential energy will elasticity in the hoses and in the steel tank, itself.
Add an automotive muffler to your air intake on compressor. Cut your noise in half. Make sure you put a functional or new pop valve ( pressure relief valve) on compressor to avoid over pressuring system
Be a bit hard to do on an atlas copco diesel air compressor- the compressors near silent the 2 cylinder (likely deutz) makes all the noise as the compressors a rotary screw
Can't he also just use a smaller compressor?
@@aayotechnology its all about the consumption in his power hammer - a smaller compressor would technically run it but it would be far slower and become impractical to use - we have a 2 ton casing hammer at work that requires approx. 200 cfm at 100 psi to cycle 50 times a minute - and thats only relying on air to lift 400mm (16inches) and uses gravity for its drop - we can use a smaller compressor in a pinch but she gets real slow reaaaalllllll fast and requires adjustments to its timing system to cope
I'm in Washington and Oregon's law are very similar. I have 2 air tanks at my work and i have the state come and do the required inspections every 2 years as required. If i recall it's for any pressure vessel over 60 or 80 gallons, business or personal. The inspector comes with a little thickness meter and takes a half dozen measurements of the tank wall thickness and slaps a sticker on them if they pass. It doesn't cost much at all, keeps the bossiness in compliance and keeps everyone safe.
I'm a retired Journeyman Nuclear Grade Steamfitter Weldor out of Plumbers & Steamfitters Local Union 598 Pasco Washington. When I saw you with that rigging setup I just smiled and remembered what a Journeyman told me as a first year apprentice.. " Work smarter not harder, these tools will do all the work for you if you use them"! LOL! Nothing to be ashamed of good job!
For the record, come-along’s are definitely meant for pipe wrenches. I’ve had opposing 36’s on a 3” threaded union using a come-along to keep tension while I used a torch and hammer on the nut. You make do with what you’ve got.
I always wondered why they had the big hole in end. Seemed a bit oversized for hanging it on a wall. Apparently, the pipe wrench manufacturer's know someone will want to put a come along on the end of the wrench.
Pex makes a wonderful, and safe, shop air system.
He scared me for a minute and I thought it was PVC right before he started talking. I've heard and seen that go wrong before.
I spent 5 years OTR and all my tools were in storage. I then moved. Three years and still haven’t had time to organize a work area in the garage of my new home. Tools are in storage bins and I spend more time looking for them than some projects require to do. It’s defeating and I end up not doing anything. However, as I get things set up little at at time, I can appreciate the small advances in organization. Your striker issue reminds me of this .today I locked myself out of my house. I could have used my grinder to make a tool to unlock the latch in the garage door. But have no idea where my grinder is. I need to make a work bench to mount my grinder. So pop-a-lock got $50 today.
You posted this in a very timely manner for me personally. I’m trying to upgrade my shop air right now and it’s proving to be an expensive endeavor
Same
The measure of a craftsman's ability is not what he knows, but how he improvises in the face of what he doesn't know.
There have been quite a few compressor tank disasters on TH-cam lately.Quite an eye opener. Prompted me to decommission my 25 year old compressor tank and get a new compressor.The new portable compressor came with a warning/advisory to decommission the tank in 10 years (2031) CHEERS from Westcoast Canada!
Looks nervously over at my at least 50+ year old Ingersoll Rand air compressor with its 120 gallon tank set at 150 psi sitting in the corner of my garage.
When my grandfather gave it to me and my dad 10 years ago it must of had 50 gallon of water inside of it. We couldn't figure out why it was so heavy. I'm guessing he never drained it.
I do rarely use it maybe once a month and it's never left under pressure. It leaks off over a couple days.
Good idea with adding a timed dryer/drain to the tank. I noticed a ball valve upstream of the timed valve which is a very good addition. If the noise is bothersome one can gate the ball valve a bit to make it a little more quiet. In addition to the noise the water will evacuate more completely at a slower rate. It seems counterintuitive however it seems to be the case. Great video as always, thank you for the content.
The pipe wrench with the come-along is just too awesome, now that was fun to learn right there.
Love Scott's ingenuity, comment about just doing something that you don't know how to do - you'll learn to get good at it. Just started some sheet metal work and point taken.
Great work as usual Scott!
And thanks for reading the comments and actually taking some of the ideas to heart, so many guys on this platform seem to think they know it all, you are a wise humble guy.
Cheers from Tokyo!
Stu
I fully agree with your attitude of just going ahead and doing something you aren't terribly good at. It's how I'm teaching myself to run a sewing machine. I'm no tailor-- not even a sailmaker. But I look at the seams I was making a month ago, and the seams I made last night, and there is a world of difference between the two.
I just found this channel and very useful inspiring knowledge,
Very impressed with your com along method of removing the pip fitting. Ive used a long length of 2 inch pipe to do the same for years but your method is a lot safer.
I watch often, but rarely comment. I really appreciate your statements about just rolling up your sleeves getting in there and doing it! I have learned so much that way over the years. I'm just a few years shy of you age-wise, but I have as much enthusiasm for taking on new skills and challenges as I did when I was a teenage boy. Thank you for reawakening that in me, Scott! 👍🙏
Someone told me that when things go wrong it is just a learning moment. Have had lots of learning moments as I try different projects.
I appreciate this timer drain, it's really awesome, we usually install omega air td16 for our customers, it already have ball valve for mesh filter service. Hope yours have it too, because practice says that drains installed on open-weather conditions receivers needs to be maintained more often than indoor ones. Btw, I'll recommend to install drainage tube or hose on that, to prevent water splashing everywhere.
On the one hand, I like seeing Scott do a project on his own. On the other hand, I don't like seeing Scott work alone. Glad Kenny is there. I see you Ken.
I'm like that guy in the chair. I could watch you work all day. Btw, I've plumbed PEX for both air and water and have been very pleased with it.
don't forget to soap up fittings to check for leaks, I used to install automotive lifts and compressors for a living, your tank in the ground is not a bomb despite whatever anyone else says, most ground tanks fail at piping not the tank themselves,and when a tank does fail nothing happens except a pin hole, I have removed hundreds of these tanks. I have witnessed a compressor head throwing a piston up through a concrete ceiling that was the floor of the next level. when it comes to compressors let them breath, when people put them in closets or small rooms the heat kills them, automatic tank drains and in line oilers will keep your tools running good. I used to install a one foot length of pipe at each station where air is required with a ball vale to help drain water.
tend to agree with you - but if the underfloor vessel is basically a large pipe with flat disc? ends - then maybe there is a potential for structural failure under pressure??... though i am guessing that the failure would be something like a progressive seam tear - maybe soil and gravel blown around the workshop - but nothing like an "explosion"
@@davidlloyd-jones8519 an explosion would take far more psi then what the air compressor could ever produce, the failure would start from condensation in the tank produced by the compressor, or the process of electrolysis because it is buried in the ground, I used to build gas stations along with air compressors and automotive lifts, the old steel fuel tanks in the ground ha to be tested for cathodic protection, they would have a sacrificial anode in the ground that would attract stray current , same way a water tank in your house or a boat does
My father passed away 5 years ago at the age of 94. On the farm we had a 400 foot water well that had some flamable gas in the water! Dad drilled and tapped a gas line from the water tank to the gas furnance to heat the shop! One day as he was lighting the furnance it dawned on him this could be BAD! If there was a leak. He removed all plumbing and plugged everything off. Yes you made me think about my father, like you did in this video, he fixed it before it blew up.. :)
Yeah, add sandbags. I remember in a shop I worked at, we had a pretty big compressor, and about 200 sewing machines and cutting tables and operators on the same floor (some commercial machines also wanted air). Fortunately, the mechanic had put a heavy wire mesh cage around the machine, plus 3/4" ply. One night, after most folks were gone, (I was there but in a different room), the building shook as the compressor blew. Pretty amazing noise and all. Blew the plywood apart, but the mesh, (we're talking HEAVY stuff, like 1/8" thick or more) mostly held, the plywood fragments in. Somewhat eye opening.
I like the idea of a blast wall,any tank new or old being cycled can go boom. We built a air system like this using four 80 gallon compressor s that had died for many reasons,plumbed the tank in two pairs for the two shops and fed them with a smaller 60 gallon two stage,never run out of air in the mechanism shop or the wood shop. Bigger supply lines help alot to cool air lines down.
What is so impressive is the number of skills that are demonstrated on this channel. This reminds me of a friend who was from the first part of the baby boomer generation. It is amazing the number of skills that were obtained by the common folk of that era.
Your block work is top notch. Rodding the grout, bond beams and not too much mortar projecting into the cell.
Outstanding.. such a great video.. thank you so much for taking the time to share this with us.
If you decide to do a pressure test on the tank(s), be sure to fill it/them with WATER (remembering to drain and dry it out afterwards) becaue the water is non-compressible, and there will be just a small amount of air in it for the pressurisation, any failure will just be localised as it will almost instantly drop to atmospheric pressure with only a small amount of water loss.
It's called hydrostatic pressure testing. It's an industry standard actually.
@@OU81TWO
Keeping it simple 😉👍
An 'air system' that does not leak down is a delight! I used to have a Craftsman 220V compressor and that rascal would hold air for months! I miss that guy!! SO good to see KENNY!! Cheers!
might be too late and might be too many comments by now. but i did the block work on my own house and found a lot of benefit from the Perkins Brothers channel. they have some good CMU vids and show how they move their hands/trowel. love your channel
Glad to see your being supervised in your wall building endeavours.
Nice... I love welding blankets! Loosely hung they stop an amazing amount of shrapnel...
Was a plumber in Florida, usually used copper, PVC and Cpvc, never liked pex until I moved to SD. Now I understand why people like it, it's pliable enough that if water freezes in it, it expands and doesn't burst.👍🏼
I'm really impressed with that tank, I lucked into a couple of large compressor and motor heads, but need a good size tank that's in good shape, and they are definitely hard to come by.
amish in our area use 500 gallon lp tanks...
im in aus, we do 4x4ing, but, we dont have the gear you do in u.s., im using large fire extiguishers as air tank, x3. allmost pumps up 4 tires.. 35,s. at 150 psi..tank press. laws are bad here for anything remotly explosive, like a prower tank, inside a vehicle..lpg tanks are bad enough..no way would i use an ex, water tank, . he has 1 small rust corrosion hole. rust flakes off. not even..
Excellent work, sir. I have a fairly large air tank that causes me undue stress as well. A blast wall is on my list of things to do.
You’re always so precise with everything you do. It’s fun to watch you “wing it” a bit on this project.
After seeing everything you have available to you and the knowledge you possess, I am so glad to hear that you have future generations you can pass that on to.
Very nice shop. I like how there is a supervisor in a lawn chair for every part of the project.
Good job working the edges on that pad you poured. I seldom see anyone doing that. It certainly helps to have nice looking edges when you remove the boards. Nice job on the block work. I learned by watching my Dad, then by doing my own jobs. You are right, try doing it and learn.
I’m not sure if you ran a UV rated or coated PEX but just be aware standard PEX doesn’t hold up well against UV when used under pressure. I like UV coated PEX-A for air line use as it lasts well and tends to not fail in the field but at the fitting connections.
You are right on if you have never done a task just do it. That’s what I did on laying brick took me and a buddy a long time to complete but very satisfying.🇺🇸🇨🇦🇺🇸
I like watching people work. But watching someone watching someone working is a new one for me. :-)
I just want to say that really enjoy watching your videos and has helped me in my day to day job.
I appreciate you Sir!
Simplest solutions are sometimes the best but fine work all the same. We use a rupture disk to be a intended weakest link in a system. Unlike a relief valve that can be closed if failure occurs the disk needs replaced and the reason for failure can be diagnosed.
plumber here....thats just how i'd do it! lol Yea i love blue monster pipe dope...if you dont use it for a while it can dry out, but its not bad just add some oil to it to get it going again...
Good evening. I watch all your videos and thoroughly enjoyed every one. Your audio is perfect because you speak so well and your content is excellent.
Joe. South Africa
Your joy is infectious... thanks for sharing, that made my day,
One of the proudest days of my life was setting up my 80gallon 17.8 cfm at 170psi an that was to run pneumatic car detailing equipment among other things but never thought of a water tank for extra capacity. Always learning something from this channel.
you can also use 4ft propane tanks - you can be sure they are pressure tested. i used to have one on wheels to roll outside
Imagine working long enough to amass this much knowledge….then living long enough to incorporate it into these kind of projects for you own swan song shop. Legend.
Can you add some chain link fence around the open end of that tank. Since you did care enough to build a wall, chain link will retain most of the shrapnel around the open end if it ever does blow.
That way you really help to contain the blast. Even if it rips away from the block, it will slow it down and catch enough to make it worthwhile. And I am sure you have some chain link left over from a job... Nice work..
Awesome job fixing something that was dangerous before it reared its ugly head. Seems like air tank safety has been highlighted on TH-cam a lot lately, which is excellent.
Love your stuff! Glad to see even someone as crafty as you have areas where you don't feel like you're the best at it! I'd say it turned out great!
I used to be a surveyor in the UK, inspecting boilers, compressed air vessels, chemical and oil refineries. In principle there is nothing wrong with repurposing the tank, but its rated maximum working pressure is 125 PSI. You should not be operating the vessel above that pressure. I would normally say to someone that if the max WP was 125, they should run at 120. I have seen air receivers that have passed all external checks, including the safety valve and ultrasonic thickness checks to find on internal inspection that the pitting was so bad I had to condemn them from further use, or reduce the MWP from say 10 bar to 7 bar. At least you are decommissioning your old homemade tank. Stay safe!
Love this channel, the content, and modesty like I've never seen before. Please be sure to check with your friend on getting the correct pressure relief valve, since the one that was on the tank was for a water storage tank. Now you have an air storage tank, and I'm pretty sure the air flow requirement of the pressure relief valve has to be much higher.
Wow that was a lot of work. Great looking install, makes my muscles hurt just watching.
Worked in a business where a 3 inch PVC air line failed and blew a 4 foot by 2 foot hole in the block wall that it was attached to. Impressive to say the least.
This plumber was impressed with your ingenuity
I'm glad you did it! You won't regret it.
Awesome vessel and awesome job on that blockwork too!
Pressure relief valves and periodic testing set your mind at ease.
some very good advice for air tanks open clean and put rust stop in them turning the rust into ferric oxide let dry then put linseed oil in the tank dump out leftovers after it all drys out you now have a tank that will not rot out and is 100% SAFE NOW.
Compressed air is no joke.
Nice job, impressed.
Love it Sir!!!!!!!! God Bless you, your family, your grandkids, this community, all the newcomers !!!!!!!
Air tanks equalize the pressure,from its compressor, and are a must-have in any shop----Pneumatics!!RELIEF VALVES FOR SAFETY
The only exploding receiver tank I ever encountered was a little portable homeowner unit left plugged in while not in use. The shutoff failed and in the owner's absence pumped up until the tank until it burst doing severe damage to the building. To pressure test a vessel in unknown condition, fill it within a quart of air volume with water, rig a 600 pound pressure gauge to the line pumping into the mystery vessel, disconnect the little compressor's shutoff and bypass the tank. 40 years ago I did that with a 82 gallon tank from a salvage yard. Took the pressure up a bit over 300 psi which made it tick and creak. After 30 years under pressure the tank failed with a pinhole leak where the condensate pooled. That's how fraidy-cat po'boys do it.
Great video. An alternative tank, should someone be looking for one, is a propane tank. I they are designed for 250 psi. I have a 125 gallon tank on wheels in my barn, so I can reorganize with ease.
125psi is fairly low pressure in the scheme of pressure vessels.
Ordinary pressure vessels have a MINIMUM of a 3-5 to 1 safety factor.
This is before the other considerations are factored....
Draining liquid to prevent internal cortisone is more important than any other thing. The masonry wall will prevent impact damage and perhaps sound mitigation.
This is my profession. Quit listing to others who don't have any idea what they are talking about. Keep up the great work.
Great video! You absolutly did the right thing 👍Old and corroded pressure vessels can still become good smoker grills or flower pods 🌻🌷
Some suggestions from my professional experience in designing compressor systems up to 5600psi here in Germany:
1. Additional to draining the condensate, you can prevent corrosion inside the tank with lanolin based products like fluidfilm. Actually that is done to high pressure bottles, when contamination with the oil is not an issue.
2. In Europe pressure vessels like yours need to be checked every five years visually and every 10 years filled with water up to 1,5x the rated pressure. With such a big tank it might be worth considering to test it every decade even in domestic use.
3. I really like how much thought you put in the whole installation. You are not that far from industrial standards. With industrial applications it is good practice to have on every pressure vessel:
- safety valve/discharge valve set max. to the design pressure of the vessel and with a flow rate at least as high as the compressor that feeds the vessel.
- label with data like volume, design pressure.
- a pressure gage.
- a condensate drain.
- a valve to shut the vessel from the System.
The last is quite usefull if you need to work on the System but don't want to discharge your vessel or if you do an pressure test.
By the way, even though it is not rated for it, regular blue loctite seals threads quite good gastight.
Again, great video! Like your channel a lot!
I’d recommend coating the inside with a layer of paint to help prevent rust on the tank in the future. I recently rebuilt an old compressor and tank and did that. Cleaned out the inside with some rock and chain to beat the rust off. Water Pressure tested it to 250psi, help up then coated the inside with 2 layers of paint to seal it all up
I did the same thing. I put rust Primer
In the tank. I just poured it in and then roll the tank around.
When in doubt, run a hydrostatic test. I got a big 'ol tank once, ran a test, and it exploded. It looked perfectly fine, but it had enough internal corrosion that it failed. I could only imagine how powerful, and devastating, that would have been if it was air.
We do this on our model railway steam boilers, no stored energy full of water as it’s incompressible.
It would be easier to perform an internal visual and ultrasonic thickness inspection.
@@MrEric_API That's not sufficient. Industry standard is a hydrostatic pressure test. The inspection as you suggested is the first thing that gets done to ensure it's safe to move onto an actual pressure test.
If inspection reveals defects then there's no point in pressure testing. Correct the defects then pressure test.
@@OU81TWO you are incorrect.
Let me explain why.
An ASME pressure vessel does not require a hydrostatic test, unless it's been modified, which this one has not. (If it was or would need to be by a code dual holder, which he isn't)
Those who know pressure vessels understand this fact. Refineries and chemical plants around the world use visual and ultrasonic thickness to determine safe continued service for a pressure vessel. This one is no different.
Performing a hydro would perform no extra level of safety, and if it was done incorrectly, would risk damaging this pressure vessel.