6 month update: Vevor motor = Kaput 😂 The vevor electric motor has an issue with overheating when used for any substantial amount of time. It did seem to get better after connecting the unloaded valve, but still heats up and will shut off. Aside from that, this compressor is absolutely amazing. I’ve linked an upgraded motor in the description if you guys are looking for these parts. Thank you all for watching!
I think you're spinning the compressor too fast and overloading the motor. That pump uses an 8 inch pulley on a 1700 rpm motor, that motor you have should use a 3.5 to 4 inch pulley
@@CoopsHouse well, to be fair, I have the old Chicago Pneumatic, but I got the pully size from the instructions from the McGraw. I hope my Vevor motor on my compressor doesn't shit the bed lol
If you're going to run two compressors, have them kick on at different pressures. I'm actually setting up something like that in my shop in a few months. One big 3 phase 2 stage compressor and a smaller single stage compressor. The single stage is going to cut on before the big compressor so I'm not wasting electricity or putting wear on the more expensive pump if I'm just running an impact or a spray gun.
I have a dual compressor setup in my shop and its horrible because one starts before the other one and the other one never runs, just hook them to the same pressure switch so you're getting your moneys worth out of them.
If you take the cap off the switch it will tell you the start and stop psi it’s set for, also when testing rotation of your motor it’s best to not install the drive belt until your sure rotation is correct.
Pro tip, get an adjustable pulley for the motor and adjust it for nameplate current of the motor. It's not an adjustment for you, it's to compensate for all the variables (many pros do not know this)
You can build a simple water separator with a 8'-12' (depending on wall height) stick of 3/4",and 1/2" copper rigid pipe. Just get a 1/2 x 1/2 x 3/4 T clean out the stop in the 1/2 sides of the t so the 1/2 pipe will slide thru. Slide it down the 1/2 pipe about 2-4 ft then slide the 3/4" pipe over the 1/2 into the fitting add a threaded connector to the other end of the T and 1/2" pipe and a drain valve to the bottom of the 3/4". Solder every thing up and mount vertical in the coolest place you can. The side of the T is your inlet the top of the 1/2" pipe is the outlet. This way the air flows down between the two pipe walls cooling of then makes a hard turn up the 1/2" leaving most of the water in the base of the 3/4. You could also cut the end of the 1/2" inlet pipe at an angle so it slides in against the 3/4 causing the air to spin increasing effectiveness.
@CoopsHouse I built one for my home shop machine shop. Have never noticed water in the line since. Also have never had to drain the water separators that are on the machine's since.
That’s what I thought as well! It’s so much quieter than the one we had. So far it’s doing fantastic. Only issue so far is heating up the electric motor.
Just followed the directions in the manual. It’s just the 3 wires. Ground, white, and black. Only 2 available terminals in the electric motor aside from the ground
@@davidbenson3503 yeah man it still works! I did recently change the feed tube from the pump to the tank to something a bit bigger. Make sure the unloaded valve is hooked up, and I’d recommend not using the vevor electric motor. It gets hot under a load and shuts off so I changed mine. I did link it in the description though.
I’ve only had it in operation for about 5 days but so far, no issues at all with the pump! It’s actually a beast and will keep up with anything I’ve thrown at it. I just have to figure out keeping the electric motor a bit cooler
You should definitely hook up that 'old' dewalt compressor with the 'new' two stage compressor to have all the air storage. Volume of air is what really matters especially with high demand pneumatic tools(DA sanders, etc). Adding a cooling loop would make it even better yet! The air compressing process causes heat to build in the compressed air, adding a cooling loop will prevent a lot of condensation from forming in the tanks - causing rust inside the steel tank. You're definitely on the right path with the big 2stage compressor tho. I didn't get to the part where you plug it in so I'm not sure if you are going 120v or 220v, but 220v 8s better if you have that option(im sure you do because you have a welder thats 220v I'm sure(or should be).👍🏻👌🏻🤔⚠️⚡🔌🔋💥💨🛠️🔧🔩⛓️🚧😎
The issue with adding volume is the duty cycle of the motor...assuming that you have 2-80 gallon air compressor tanks on a motor that the duty cycle is say 3 minutes, and you add that extra 80 gallons on it and now it takes 6 minutes to pump up, that is going to DRAMATICALLY shorten the life of that motor.
@@CoopsHouse Auto drain goes on the bottom of the tank, the air system connects to the top. With high CFM unit you will be accumulating allot of water at the bottom of the tank. Additional moisture separators may be needed to the air system. Refrigerated dryers are the best option if you have the budget/space.
@@ghffrsfygdhfjkjiysdz yessir I knew what you meant! We’re about to run a whole new feed system, refrigerated dryer, and everything after we build our compressor room on. We’re gonna add the drain then
@@CoopsHouse I put a regular 5 hp motor on it and it keeps up with my pot blaster and media blasting cabinet without even straining. My vevor is a paper weight but the company did reimburse me for the motor. Great company but you have to be firm with them.
@@gbodyperformance for sure! I’ve enjoyed the stuff I’ve bought from them. I’ve noticed this thing gets hot and has to cool before it’ll run again so it’s definitely an issue. I’ll look into it and see what I can come up with!
if you are doing that much air buy a rotary screw compressor it can run all day long super quiet low maintenance and use a dryer attachment with it.. not cheap set you back about 10 grand but youll never have to fix or buy another one for 20 years
well yes they are expensive but worth it if your going though compressors every 5 years and blowing out bearins i can tell you run it alot thats why it failed like it did.. you can get smaller ones at about 6 grand or rebuilt ones anyway its a suggestion@@CoopsHouse
@@CoopsHouseI was just looking at my notes it was a four horsepower electric motor it had vastly more power than we needed actually we had to turn it down. 2.5 horsepower DC electric motor has enough power.
The compressor industry has been turning out trash for a while. If you tap the tanks you will find different thickness boilers. Get rid of any plastic parts on the regulator/shut off etc. You also have duty cycle for the motor part if you are planning on running it hard.
Please do the TH-cam world a big favor and don't go down the rabbit hole of making a copper tube wall mounted radiator "dryer". Either get a refrigerated Dryer or don't bother. There are lots of useless videos about how so-and-so made this-and-that, but factually none of them work for sustained air flow. Aftercoolers work to some degree if they are pre-tank (between the pump and tank), but will not remove all humidity because they often don't have a large enough pressure/temp delta to cause complete condensation. Additionally, the act moving the air from the pump to the tank also causes condensation due to the pressure differential that occurs when air enters the tank (Joule-Thomson effect). This is more pronounced when tank pressure and temperature are lower (like empty starts) so having a pneumatic drain valve on the bottom of the tank helps too. Lots of people are happy with just an aftercooler and pneumatic drain, but the reality is that in cases where there is sustained airflow (blast cabinet / painting) these can quickly become heat soaked and you wont be removing any water from the system. There is actually a "commercial" air dryer product based on the Joule-Thomson effect, though I'm not convinced it's as good as an actual refrigerated dryer. Last but not least, if you decide to go the aftercooler route please note that the average "vevor" transmission cooler will NOT meet the dynamic pressure requirements coming out of the pump. YES, the static pressure will fall within the rated pressure rating of most automotive coolers, but there are transient pressure spikes (5+x static pressure) within the air flow directly from the pump that will crack the brazing of many of these low grade transmission coolers. Look to spend more once for a good brand cooler or you'll just be buying another every 3-6 months. Alternatively a small pressure surge tank inline can be used between the pump and aftercooler to dampen transient pressure spikes from damaging the cooler. When I went down this rabbit hole I priced out all the options based on the normal humidity for my area and it was still less cost and hassle to just get a used good or new cheap refrigerated air dryer (from that boat dock salvage company now in every town) than play games with radiators, fans and power supplies.
@@DodgeMcCarty obviously YOU don't use a sheet metal shear or brake because because neither are air operated. They are either hand operated or large units are electric over hydraulic. Keep an eye out for someone who built a time machine, if it can take them back 15 or 20 years they may be interested in your compressor.
@thomasbarrett3175 actually the ones I do are. Shear is Baileigh Industrial SH-5216A and the brake does use air but has a hydraulic clamp. But by all means keep showing the world how stupid you are.
Big problem bro. The tank your using is not rated for that you are asking for big trouble. Mening.. it could explode at a weld or thin point in the roled steel. Those tanks are cold pressed. Not hot roled check the data plate on tanks do your due diligence very very dangerous.
I’m not sure what you mean? It’s an air compressor tank that I replaced the pump on and doesn’t exceed the pressure it was intended for in the first place.
@CoopsHouse a two stage will build 100p.s.i more off the top. Then a single stage. Example, your cut in is 160 psi and cut out is 175 min to 200psi. A two stage also can generate higher static psi and consistent cfm. If your ambient Temps very you build twice the water with leeds to rust jacking at bottom of tank and will couse catastrophic failure. Compressed Air is no joke. Example a tire at 40psi burst its deadly. Please be careful and just not do this. I'm a industrial and chemical compressor tech. Hydro test the tanks before to air worthy them.
@@Rocket9k I ended up adding the relief valve and it took a lot of strain off the vevor motor so it’s still working. But I did or another one from a compressor supply store on ebay. I’ll have to find it again
6 month update:
Vevor motor = Kaput 😂
The vevor electric motor has an issue with overheating when used for any substantial amount of time. It did seem to get better after connecting the unloaded valve, but still heats up and will shut off. Aside from that, this compressor is absolutely amazing.
I’ve linked an upgraded motor in the description if you guys are looking for these parts. Thank you all for watching!
I think you're spinning the compressor too fast and overloading the motor. That pump uses an 8 inch pulley on a 1700 rpm motor, that motor you have should use a 3.5 to 4 inch pulley
@ I used the formula that came with the pump to calculate. It should be right
@@CoopsHouse well, to be fair, I have the old Chicago Pneumatic, but I got the pully size from the instructions from the McGraw. I hope my Vevor motor on my compressor doesn't shit the bed lol
@ I think I chalked it to not having the unloader valve hooked up originally. I put that in and it seems to struggle a lot less lol
@@CoopsHouse ohhh yeah that will do it for sure. Those motors don't like to start under a load. Anyway, good stuff man. It looks fantastic
If you're going to run two compressors, have them kick on at different pressures. I'm actually setting up something like that in my shop in a few months. One big 3 phase 2 stage compressor and a smaller single stage compressor. The single stage is going to cut on before the big compressor so I'm not wasting electricity or putting wear on the more expensive pump if I'm just running an impact or a spray gun.
That makes sense! Are you hooking them together into one line, or running certain tools off of each one?
I have a dual compressor setup in my shop and its horrible because one starts before the other one and the other one never runs, just hook them to the same pressure switch so you're getting your moneys worth out of them.
@@CoopsHouse Keep on separate
Just hook the other tank up on the other end of your shop line. It will give you more reserv and better flow. Without having to run a second pump.
If you take the cap off the switch it will tell you the start and stop psi it’s set for, also when testing rotation of your motor it’s best to not install the drive belt until your sure rotation is correct.
The paint job looks outstanding
@@paulhopkins1905 thanks man!
Pro tip, get an adjustable pulley for the motor and adjust it for nameplate current of the motor. It's not an adjustment for you, it's to compensate for all the variables (many pros do not know this)
Whats an adjustable pully? Like some cvt thing or the ones that come on drill presses?
So far the #1 best Video editing and lightlining! Well done BRAVO Next is HOLLYWOOD !!!
Ayyyyeeee 😎
Have you ever thought about using the tank from the old unit to expand the amount of air you are able to pressure up?
A friend of mine had mentioned something about doing that! I just hadn’t looked into doing it yet
@@CoopsHouse it is the best idea to do, as @Christ4ever86 is 100% correct and it will save your other compressor
Great stuff. Thanks for the hack affordable 2 stage comprssor
🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
You can build a simple water separator with a 8'-12' (depending on wall height) stick of 3/4",and 1/2" copper rigid pipe. Just get a 1/2 x 1/2 x 3/4 T clean out the stop in the 1/2 sides of the t so the 1/2 pipe will slide thru. Slide it down the 1/2 pipe about 2-4 ft then slide the 3/4" pipe over the 1/2 into the fitting add a threaded connector to the other end of the T and 1/2" pipe and a drain valve to the bottom of the 3/4". Solder every thing up and mount vertical in the coolest place you can. The side of the T is your inlet the top of the 1/2" pipe is the outlet. This way the air flows down between the two pipe walls cooling of then makes a hard turn up the 1/2" leaving most of the water in the base of the 3/4. You could also cut the end of the 1/2" inlet pipe at an angle so it slides in against the 3/4 causing the air to spin increasing effectiveness.
I’ll have to look into that setup!
@CoopsHouse I built one for my home shop machine shop. Have never noticed water in the line since. Also have never had to drain the water separators that are on the machine's since.
I did this year's ago with their single stage pump that looks just like it.
Nice!
I retrofit that compressor and so far it's doing good, very quiet
That’s what I thought as well! It’s so much quieter than the one we had. So far it’s doing fantastic. Only issue so far is heating up the electric motor.
May need a smaller pulley so the motor can turn faster
@@leehuntley189 would that make it run cooler?
I got a vid on the same pump and install along with info on belt/pulley sizing etc
I’ll check it out!
Good stuff!
Appreciate you man!
Great video man!
Thank you brother!
Leveled up from mustard to ketchup🍟
@@z0rkmids facts 😂😂😂
Love the energy of young guns and I'm your older version LOL retired Fire Capt and yes you tuber
That’s awesome brother! Welcome to the channel! 🤙🏻
Another great video!
Thanks homie 🤙🏻
I need help wiring my motor. What video/source did you use to wire yours.
Just followed the directions in the manual. It’s just the 3 wires. Ground, white, and black. Only 2 available terminals in the electric motor aside from the ground
now what you do is you plum the old dewalt tank into that tank and bam you got alot more volume
Harbour Freight has motors to.
Yessir. I didn’t see a 5 horse though
I've been running a Harbor Freight pump for about 10 years now.
You have the underloader hooked up to it? That will extend the life of your pump and motor.
No sir. Waiting for a couple fittings to get here but it should be hooked up today
Is it still working? Did you do anymore upgrades? Bc im looking at doing the same thing.
@@davidbenson3503 yeah man it still works! I did recently change the feed tube from the pump to the tank to something a bit bigger. Make sure the unloaded valve is hooked up, and I’d recommend not using the vevor electric motor. It gets hot under a load and shuts off so I changed mine. I did link it in the description though.
@@CoopsHouseGood update. Maybe you could pin the vevor motor problem or add in description for those planning this build.
@@jameshill4900 good point! I’ll do that! Thanks man
@@CoopsHousewhich electric motor did you go for?
@ vevor 5hp originally but it was a little weak. I put the link to the one I ended up going with in the description
What’s the CFM rating of the McGraw?
15 @ 90 psi, or 14.8 at 120 psi
Are you still running the compressor? How long has it been working? Did anything go wrong with Harbor freight two stage unit?
I’ve only had it in operation for about 5 days but so far, no issues at all with the pump! It’s actually a beast and will keep up with anything I’ve thrown at it. I just have to figure out keeping the electric motor a bit cooler
@@CoopsHouse Reduce the drive pulley size to 4.5" diameter.
@@charliewish4459 5.6 is the recommended size by harbor freight to achieve max pump rpm with a 3540 rpm motor.
Instead of two compressors, just connect the two tanks for more storage capacity.
My concern with that is that the pump would be working twice as hard.
Only to bring the tank up to pressure.
Duty cycle is a thing
YAYYY air me up Scotty
😂😂😂🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
You should definitely hook up that 'old' dewalt compressor with the 'new' two stage compressor to have all the air storage. Volume of air is what really matters especially with high demand pneumatic tools(DA sanders, etc). Adding a cooling loop would make it even better yet! The air compressing process causes heat to build in the compressed air, adding a cooling loop will prevent a lot of condensation from forming in the tanks - causing rust inside the steel tank. You're definitely on the right path with the big 2stage compressor tho. I didn't get to the part where you plug it in so I'm not sure if you are going 120v or 220v, but 220v 8s better if you have that option(im sure you do because you have a welder thats 220v I'm sure(or should be).👍🏻👌🏻🤔⚠️⚡🔌🔋💥💨🛠️🔧🔩⛓️🚧😎
The issue with adding volume is the duty cycle of the motor...assuming that you have 2-80 gallon air compressor tanks on a motor that the duty cycle is say 3 minutes, and you add that extra 80 gallons on it and now it takes 6 minutes to pump up, that is going to DRAMATICALLY shorten the life of that motor.
Thanks for the info! I’ll look into that
That’s what I’m worried about
4:25 anyone notice the shooting star?
Or was it a UFO 👀👀
The shot off valve handle is YELLOW lol 🤪
😂😂😂😂😂
C'mon man, what's $2,000 for you guys. 😂 Great video bro.
Haha shoot 😂😂😂 thanks man!
Do yourself a favor and add an auto drain valve if you don't already have one.
That’s happening with the new plumbing system in the shop for sure!
@@CoopsHouse Auto drain goes on the bottom of the tank, the air system connects to the top. With high CFM unit you will be accumulating allot of water at the bottom of the tank. Additional moisture separators may be needed to the air system. Refrigerated dryers are the best option if you have the budget/space.
@@ghffrsfygdhfjkjiysdz yessir I knew what you meant! We’re about to run a whole new feed system, refrigerated dryer, and everything after we build our compressor room on. We’re gonna add the drain then
This is cool dude! How bad is the noise? Wish you'd have put it outside yet? 😂
Okay, I got to the point where you said you would be moving it later so nevermind lol
@@icanseymour haha. This one is actually pretty quiet believe it or not!
Ran that same motor and same pump. If you do alot of media blasting the motor won't hold up. You need a 5hp motor not a 5 hp spl.
I got you! I didn’t know the difference at the beginning but I’ve looked into it a bit more. I’ll be switching it out before too long
@@CoopsHouse I put a regular 5 hp motor on it and it keeps up with my pot blaster and media blasting cabinet without even straining. My vevor is a paper weight but the company did reimburse me for the motor. Great company but you have to be firm with them.
@@gbodyperformance for sure! I’ve enjoyed the stuff I’ve bought from them. I’ve noticed this thing gets hot and has to cool before it’ll run again so it’s definitely an issue. I’ll look into it and see what I can come up with!
@@CoopsHouse yep that is how mine started.
@@gbodyperformance interesting. Well I appreciate the info! Good to know. I’ll start looking for a better motor then. Lol
if you are doing that much air buy a rotary screw compressor it can run all day long super quiet low maintenance and use a dryer attachment with it.. not cheap set you back about 10 grand but youll never have to fix or buy another one for 20 years
That’s a bit outta the price range at the moment. Lol. That’s why we went this route
well yes they are expensive but worth it if your going though compressors every 5 years and blowing out bearins i can tell you run it alot thats why it failed like it did.. you can get smaller ones at about 6 grand or rebuilt ones anyway its a suggestion@@CoopsHouse
@@reggiebannister1080 thanks man. I appreciate the info!
I just did this for another guy and I use the treadmill motor it has 3.5 HP
Interesting. Was it powerful enough for the 5hp pump? Will it keep up under stress?
@@CoopsHouseI was just looking at my notes it was a four horsepower electric motor it had vastly more power than we needed actually we had to turn it down. 2.5 horsepower DC electric motor has enough power.
Is videos will show you how to properly set up and wire a DC motor
@@benm3574 got you! Thanks for the info
** if motor is 3450rpm (most common speed)
The compressor industry has been turning out trash for a while. If you tap the tanks you will find different thickness boilers. Get rid of any plastic parts on the regulator/shut off etc. You also have duty cycle for the motor part if you are planning on running it hard.
I hope to see a video of the Chevy truck I want to find out what u guys did to it 🙂
There will be more on it one of these days!
Please do the TH-cam world a big favor and don't go down the rabbit hole of making a copper tube wall mounted radiator "dryer". Either get a refrigerated Dryer or don't bother. There are lots of useless videos about how so-and-so made this-and-that, but factually none of them work for sustained air flow.
Aftercoolers work to some degree if they are pre-tank (between the pump and tank), but will not remove all humidity because they often don't have a large enough pressure/temp delta to cause complete condensation. Additionally, the act moving the air from the pump to the tank also causes condensation due to the pressure differential that occurs when air enters the tank (Joule-Thomson effect). This is more pronounced when tank pressure and temperature are lower (like empty starts) so having a pneumatic drain valve on the bottom of the tank helps too. Lots of people are happy with just an aftercooler and pneumatic drain, but the reality is that in cases where there is sustained airflow (blast cabinet / painting) these can quickly become heat soaked and you wont be removing any water from the system. There is actually a "commercial" air dryer product based on the Joule-Thomson effect, though I'm not convinced it's as good as an actual refrigerated dryer.
Last but not least, if you decide to go the aftercooler route please note that the average "vevor" transmission cooler will NOT meet the dynamic pressure requirements coming out of the pump. YES, the static pressure will fall within the rated pressure rating of most automotive coolers, but there are transient pressure spikes (5+x static pressure) within the air flow directly from the pump that will crack the brazing of many of these low grade transmission coolers. Look to spend more once for a good brand cooler or you'll just be buying another every 3-6 months. Alternatively a small pressure surge tank inline can be used between the pump and aftercooler to dampen transient pressure spikes from damaging the cooler.
When I went down this rabbit hole I priced out all the options based on the normal humidity for my area and it was still less cost and hassle to just get a used good or new cheap refrigerated air dryer (from that boat dock salvage company now in every town) than play games with radiators, fans and power supplies.
Haha no we’re not going that route. We have our eye on an actual refrigerated dryer!
This guy knows his shit and we all are grateful, so now I have to read about this effect
This would have been a good idea 5 years ago when pneumatic tools were still being used. Practically everything is battery operated.
Let us know how your battery HVLP Gun works and your battery sand blaster.
@@boatcrafterscollective sandblaster? Those things still around? I switched to laser cleaning years ago.
You obviously don’t paint or use large equipment like a sheet shear or brake. Mines all air.
@@DodgeMcCarty obviously YOU don't use a sheet metal shear or brake because because neither are air operated. They are either hand operated or large units are electric over hydraulic. Keep an eye out for someone who built a time machine, if it can take them back 15 or 20 years they may be interested in your compressor.
@thomasbarrett3175 actually the ones I do are. Shear is Baileigh Industrial SH-5216A and the brake does use air but has a hydraulic clamp. But by all means keep showing the world how stupid you are.
I'm guessing you already had the air compressor tank. Otherwise no way you bought a new tank
Yessir I did. It’s the tank from the compressor that busted. I just replaced the pump
Big problem bro. The tank your using is not rated for that you are asking for big trouble. Mening.. it could explode at a weld or thin point in the roled steel. Those tanks are cold pressed. Not hot roled check the data plate on tanks do your due diligence very very dangerous.
I’m not sure what you mean? It’s an air compressor tank that I replaced the pump on and doesn’t exceed the pressure it was intended for in the first place.
@CoopsHouse a two stage will build 100p.s.i more off the top. Then a single stage. Example, your cut in is 160 psi and cut out is 175 min to 200psi. A two stage also can generate higher static psi and consistent cfm. If your ambient Temps very you build twice the water with leeds to rust jacking at bottom of tank and will couse catastrophic failure. Compressed Air is no joke. Example a tire at 40psi burst its deadly. Please be careful and just not do this. I'm a industrial and chemical compressor tech. Hydro test the tanks before to air worthy them.
The pressure switch shuts it off at 155psi. If the tank is rated for that or more there is no problem…Bro.
Sub $500 not including the tank…
I said that in the video. But you can find them on marketplace all day for 50$
@@CoopsHouse yeah for a tank that’s rusty on the inside… ticking time bomb
Supposed to be a 4.45” pully or a 4.5” … fyi. Your not getting the full potential with a 5”
Is the Motor still working ? A lot of Vevor motors die quick
@@maintainingmomentum yessir it still works, but I will say it gets hot and shuts off quickly. I ordered something else that will be coming in soon.
@@CoopsHouseit's because they underrate the motors.
@@here_to_watch2115 definitely
@@CoopsHouse What drive motor did you end up using?
@@Rocket9k I ended up adding the relief valve and it took a lot of strain off the vevor motor so it’s still working. But I did or another one from a compressor supply store on ebay. I’ll have to find it again
Supposed to be a 4.45” pully or a 4.5” … fyi. Your not getting the full potential with a 5”
@@kjohns68 the formula that came with the pump equated a 5.5” with this particular electric motor
@@CoopsHouse if it’s a 3450 rpm motor it’s 4.45”.. to get correct compressor pump rpm.