I'm 60 next month and back in the day we scrounge everywhere for these parts to no avail. The closest I ever came was a cross boss manifold that takes the trumpet single style, 8 down drafts, but was bare and the carbs were impossible to get so I passed on it, shame never found another one, until you my eyes are wide and I'm a kid again, to see these parts are amazing thank you.
That's a good method to maintain flatness. You really have this down to a science, incredible how thin your castings are for the amount of surface area. Thanks for sharing!
That is a very unique cross ram style intake for upright Weber type carbs, I have never seen this style before, should make for really good low end response.... Outstanding work Kelly!
@@kellycoffield533 Kelly, if you be in need of advice, ask without trouble. I'll happy to help your improvement. For instance ...the rounded vibration flask do not help your effort.
@@aldobergamasco905 I would welcome your input on the flask and also a previous comment you had made about carbon plumes. Not sure YT is the best vehicle to do so. Is there an email address where I can reach you? Best, Kelly
Truly amazing Kelly. I've seen video of lost foam casting done in a factory setting, but never so well explained as you have while doing your work. Like it is said, "If you are really good at doing anything, you make it look easy ". You have another fan of your work. Cheers !
I like the conical shapes.. my air filter is very thin like yours and I thought of using that idea 20 years ago. Good to someone forming it in trick cast aluminium.
I've never tried at home metal casting ,but I've watched enough of it on here to know how impressive your results are. The only thing that would further blow me away is if your day job / background was something totally unrelated to mech engineering. Keep up the amazing work and thanks for sharing!!
Man, I stumbled upon you looking for the actor off of In Living Color looking for a good laugh, and I am so lucky I did, haha!! Love what you're doing!!
Really impressive work! I've been trying to find the actual geometric shape for those cones.. the best I could come up with is pseudosphere or tractricoid
Fantastic work sir. This really makes me want to make a custom one off intake for my car but I also feel I would be stepping on the toes of an individual who did make them for a while. I have the production piece, its just all the lovely core shift and piss poor machining make it unusable. I've been hacking up a stock unit to make work well enough but... I want more lol. Again, fantastic.
This is some of the best quality content I've seen on casting complex parts. Have you considered casting an exhaust manifold yet from iron? I'd love to see what you'd do differently with iron rather than aluminum. Thanks!
No iron yet. Just haven't had any priotrity iron parts but an exhaust manifold would be a well suited part for LF. Would be same process but may require higher refractoriy coating for ferrus work. Best, Kelly
@@AccuracySpeaks Not with the resistive electric heat source, but the refractory insulation is modular and can be converted to a fuel fired furnace in a few minutes. Best, Kelly
Absolutely amazing. How does the sand not move when the molten aluminum is poured in? Seems to me like it would all cave in but it doesn't. I'm going to keep researching this and then start making my own molds as well.
It is one of the confounding things about lost foam, but don't assume because there is no binder that it it is not bound at all. The vibration packs it very tightly and it is bound by friction/interference between each irregularly shaped grain of mold media. Though not as strong as bound media, it is much different than just loose sand. The pattern of course supports the mold during and after molding, but the metalostatic (hydrostatic) pressure of the molten metal helps keep the mold media in place as the metal consumes the pattern. This is why if the pour of a lost foam casting is gapped/interrupted, it often causes localized mold collapse and casting failure. Best, Kelly
I think it would have been unique to have the base and filter housing as one piece, cutting out all the inside, and making a stretch band filter media wrapped around the OD. It would be a work of art
Hello, Your quality of work, and your skill, are quite incredible, and probably unique. You are doing very inspiring work, and I ask myself the following question: is it possible to cast bronze by this process? I am asking you this question because I am thinking of making sailboat portholes in bronze, and your process seems to me suitable for amateur manufacture. Thank you again for your various vodeos, which provoke imagination and admiration, and also for your answer to my question. Be well, and may God give you a long and profitable life. Sincerely, from Normandy
That looks great, i worked in a foundry for about one year, everything was done with green sand, so what i see here is there is no binder in the sand, the aluminum just displaces the foam without the sand falling in, really that i would not think possible, i looked in your videos but did not see you go into what the sand is, looks like dry playground sand, i think i need to try this. thanks for your effort.
It's just 50-70 mesh silica sand, washed, and dried. Typically used for mortar mixes and available at the big box stores. Not play-sand. That stuff sucks. I have close friends that are life long foundrymen that owned their own foundries. Years ago, when I first started lost foam casting, I invited them over, showed them a foam pattern with cores and voids, undercuts and backdrafts, and, told them what I was going to do to mold and cast it. They just shook there head and said, "I thought we taught ya better". When the casting came out of the sand there was a long period of silence before convesation ensued once again....🙂 Best, Kelly
@@zenvent Yes, Owens Corning Foamular 150, the pink stuff available at retail stores. Foamular 250 os slightly more dense and will finisnish slightly better at the expense of having to evaporate modestly more foam. Both work well for most lost foam parts. Dow has similar material. Theirs is light blue. The color is just branding/marketing. Best, Kelly
Owens Corning Foamular 150. It's 1.3lb/ft3 extruded polystyrene insulation board available at the home improvement stores. I have a video on pattern construction materials with more details. Best, Kelly
Kelly, nice work - and well explained. Regarding pattern making, do you have to oversize the patterns by 5 or 6 percent to allow for a shrinkage factor when the aluminum cools?
Hello Kelly. impressive work , the foam patterns are great, is lost wax system similar ? How did you learn 2D cnc ? I want to m/c a flat pattern with multiple curvature, very similar to what a camshaft lobe would look like, but 300 mm / 12" diameter. can you suggest any Y/T tutorials etc .... ta robbie NZ
Your work is amazing and I appreciate all of the helpful information you provide others in your videos. You have inspired me to make a Ford 2.3l intake manifold. I have most the foam work done and am working on the gating system next. Do all high points need a gate attachment to avoid air being trapped or will the head pressure fill them from below pushing the air out through the sand? Thank you!
Lost foam gating is an interesting subject. Gating at high points isn't so much to avoid trapping air, because that occurs through the pattern and coating surface just like the rest of the mold. Moreover, it's to avoid localized mold collapse if the reversing of direction slows the molten metal flow such that the foam evaporates faster than the metal advances. But this isn't always a problem. The downside to multiple contact points on top the pattern is multiple metal fronts must converge into one as they travel down the mold which can lead to defects. Top gating works best if you can contact a massive section on top of the pattern which then tends to naturally spread and feed the entire pattern from top down. This case also produces good directional solidification from bottom up. Another approach like I used on these parts is a long thin contact area the length/depth of the pattern because it minimizes the total distance the metal must flow from the hot/molten metal feed system. I try to keep the cross sectional area of the sprue, runners and gate area similar because if the downstream area becomes too large, the feed system can have a hard time keeping up. But, unlike open cavity conventional sand casting, the lost foam mold fill rate is dictated by the rate foam is evaporated, not strictly gravity and feed system cross section. Fill times on my lost foam molds are usually 2-3x slower than they would be for the same in an open cavity sand casting. Good luck on your intake manifold. Best, Kelly
Amazing quality of work there. I found your channel by accident just trolling youtube. Question: How do you "treat" your aluminum ? What I mean by that is, do you degas the molten aluminum and if so how ? Do you do anything else to "treat" the aluminum ? The reason I ask is because I have done a very small amount of casting but each time it appears that the aluminum is porous. It has almost microscopic amounts of "voids" (for the lack of a better term). It then becomes weakened. When you buy a piece of round stock from the machine shop it's perfect but if I pour my own it's not the same quality. Your casting appear to be perfect. Thanks for any replies.
For the last couple years I've used A356 Ingot in a resistive electric furnace and I dont degas. When I used to recycle a lot of scrap metal, I did degas with argon with a lance I made. If you have a fuel fired furnace keep the burn lean and the pour temp as low as possible to fil your parts and you will minimize porosity. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Thank you very much for the reply. Yes I do use scrap aluminum. Specifically pistons, left over AL from my shop, etc. It's all clean stuff. Thanks for that tip on low pour temp.
You might want to consider putting a removable lift arm on your molding cart to lift the extension up so you don't have to fight with it as you did on this one.
Amazing work! In your CAD designs, do you account for shinking in the aluminum? for example, do you say model the part to the exact dimensions, then scale everything up by % when you export to CAM?
How hard to adapt to the taller deck height Cleveland/ Boss 351? The Pantera guys would buy every one, especially with the Autolite inline carbs. Hell, I'd buy a Pantera just to show off one of your induction systems.
Already done. Look at these two videos. th-cam.com/video/yMrmepjcN18/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ssVVgh9PvtiW7pX6 th-cam.com/video/mqriVTlzGic/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hgT_gL_mazGYWNZK Best, Kelly
Hi there, With the lost foam method is there more porosity with the end result casting, as I noticed in one of your vids you talked about sealing the parts with Loctite. I deal with the sand casting system via the local foundry and don't have lots of porosity, occasionally but not to bad. is there ways to off gas the parts more effectively, just wondering. Thanks for all the videos
In general, I'd say LF is no more or less prone to porosity. IMO, most of the issues with porosity are related to aluminum, it's affinity for hydrogen and H2 related porosity, and general melt management to prevent such. If done properly, lost foam may actually be less suspectable because none of the byproducts of decomposed PS Foam are soluable in molten aluminum and the mold media sand is dry (no binders to emit gases that are soluable in molten aluminum). The downside of LF, is it requires a slightly higher pour temp and the solubility of hydrogen is a function of temperature, but IMO this is a very minor difference. For melt management, I use a resistive electric furnace. It is very clean, there are no hydrocarbons present, and the furnace atmosphere is most likely inert. Best, Kelly
In regard to vacuum impregnating castings, I use to use a lot of dirty scrap and remelt. It was harder to get that metal gas free. I built a good degassing lance and those issues ceased. I also poured hotter in those days which likely wasnt helpful. I've since started using virgin ingot and do not degass, and have had zero issues since, so the loctite hasnt seen the light of day since. Best, Kelly
No. There were supposedly a couple companies working on such but expnaded polystyrene foam is feather light and the filament would need some kind of foaming agent which I'm sure would be very hard to control expansion. For now, it's cuttings with the CNC router instead of additive printed construction. Best, Kelly
No, I only had about 30lbs of ingot tray provisioned, but if necessary, the crucible could have been returned to the furnace while the first round of ingot froze. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 LOL I figured you would have something figured out incase....all of your work seems to be well thought out....you seem to be a good guy to learn from....the comments show that!
In theory there is no limit as to how small but in practice, the ability to produce acceptable detail and finish on the foam pattern is the limiting factor. So for simple parts, maybe 1/16 thick by 1". If I was making jewlery or artwork, I'd use lost wax or 3D printed pattern media, and either investment or shell casting. This will reproduce finer details and finishes. But for larger machine parts, IMO, lost foam is much less laborious, more versatile, practical, and economical for small quantities and home hobbyists. Best, Kelly
Beautiful work! Do you need to make the mold oversized for any shrinkage? Im thinking about giving this a shot to recast a component thats no longer available and some of the dimensions is critical. Thanks.
Thanks for the content, great stuff. I've seen others commenting on the audio, which sound muffled on most of the videos I've seen so far. Are you using an action camera with a sealed weather case around it? It sounds like the microphone is covered up by something. Edit: guess not, the muffled sound comes and goes.
It's because it's an old phone mounted behind me on a tripod so I am speaking away from the speaker. Admittedly the audio isn't great, the finned cylinder casting video is the worst, but I can easily listen to all of them on every device I own with volume up. I guess I'm more interested in casting than making spiffy videos and am more likely to attract a like minded group of viewers. K
With the long lever handle on my molding rig I've actually found that I can control the dump just fine with the extensions so that's what I do. Best, Kelly
If you dont mind I'd like to know what you use for the refractory coating and roughly the cost I'm looking to cast an engine block and cylinder head and need something to get my foam patterns with
I use REFCOTEC PolyCap 600. There is a 600lb minimum buy and will set you back $600 so best to find someone to share the cost. Drywall joint compound will work nearly as well for aluminum, is very inexpensive, and commnly available. Best, Kelly
@@lukeamato2348 If you thinned itto the right consistency, yes. But dry wall mud (nonsetting joint compoubd) the additives that make it better for joint compound also make it better than just PoP for a lost foam refractory coating. Better in respect to surface coverage, dryinng, and permeability. A thin coating (enough to turn pink foam white) is sufficient. Thicker doesnt necessarily mean better. Best, Kelly
Not that I'm aware of. The commercial operatins use pre-expanded beads in metal molds and then us steam to expand and bond those into patterns. It's a pretty involved process easily as complex as the rest of theprocesses combined. Two part epoxy and urethane foams do not work well. No printed materials that will burn out like foam either. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 I don’t know about that,,,,, I heard he could be a son of a gun,,,, may have it done from beyond the grave just to prove anoint,,,,,lol. LOVE this stuff, Been interested for years, never realized lost foam could be done "at home" so to speak. This is freaking awesome.
A commercial product called REFCOTEC Poly Cap 600. But if you search my channel for a video "Refractory Coatings for Lost Foam Casting Patterns" I discuss thta and the use of drywall joint compound. Best, Kelly
Yes with the lowest melt temp glue I can find, for the quick sticks. For longer work time I use various forms of PVA glue, but all as sparingly as possible. Best, Kelly
So would you be interested in making a manifold for me? The ford manifold is very close to my poly 318 intake, there is no aftermarket manifolds for my motor, I have an old cris craft marine manifold that looks similar to the one you created , if you might be interested I'd like to discuss my idea?
If you're only armed with an idea, not likely. The reverse engineering of the diemsional layout and features takes a lot of time. The cost of doing that and writing the CAM program are very large compared to cutting the pattern and casting it. Interest will vary depending on the project, but realistically, for me to consider it, someone would need to have a surface model for the pattern ready to cut on a 3-axis cnc router. Best, Kelly
I'm 60 next month and back in the day we scrounge everywhere for these parts to no avail. The closest I ever came was a cross boss manifold that takes the trumpet single style, 8 down drafts, but was bare and the carbs were impossible to get so I passed on it, shame never found another one, until you my eyes are wide and I'm a kid again, to see these parts are amazing thank you.
Thanks Boss Man. The Inlines can still be had......but not cheap. www.inlinecarb.com
This is another one of the most incredible displays of talent on TH-cam! I have so many questions on how you do this.
I wonder if he has an hoa,
@@BedeMeredith It does look like he lives in a covenant community.
@@BedeMeredith I refer any complaints about my driveway casting to the HOA President.....that's me! 🙂
Wow.....beautiful work and workmanship! some rare carbs there!
Simply amazing work, you have all us amateur casters jaws dropped! Thank you so much for sharing this 👍
That's a good method to maintain flatness. You really have this down to a science, incredible how thin your castings are for the amount of surface area. Thanks for sharing!
That is a very unique cross ram style intake for upright Weber type carbs, I have never seen this style before, should make for
really good low end response.... Outstanding work Kelly!
Another great job Kelly!! My compliment from an Italian lost foam professional. All the best
Thanks Aldo. Still learning and improving. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Kelly, if you be in need of advice, ask without trouble. I'll happy to help your improvement.
For instance ...the rounded vibration flask do not help your effort.
@@aldobergamasco905 I would welcome your input on the flask and also a previous comment you had made about carbon plumes. Not sure YT is the best vehicle to do so. Is there an email address where I can reach you? Best, Kelly
Truly amazing Kelly. I've seen video of lost foam casting done in a factory setting, but never so well explained as you have while doing your work. Like it is said, "If you are really good at doing anything, you make it look easy ". You have another fan of your work. Cheers !
My line of interrest casting!!! You just got a new sub
You never fail to Impress. I bet you're enjoying the CNC now haha. Well done good Sir.
Wow that's impressive to see your castings, they look like great1
I like the conical shapes.. my air filter is very thin like yours and I thought of using that idea 20 years ago.
Good to someone forming it in trick cast aluminium.
I've never tried at home metal casting ,but I've watched enough of it on here to know how impressive your results are. The only thing that would further blow me away is if your day job / background was something totally unrelated to mech engineering.
Keep up the amazing work and thanks for sharing!!
Just incredible work! Parts look amazing, you really have dialed in the process. Just had to subscribe!
Hands down the best!
Amazing work. You are a master of this craft.
Now I’m getting it ,
you are the guy
that make this engines
👀 look great 😊👍
Man, I stumbled upon you looking for the actor off of In Living Color looking for a good laugh, and I am so lucky I did, haha!! Love what you're doing!!
I've watched several of your casting videos. Amazing almost covers it. Subscribed!
Thanks for sharing. It was great to be able to see how the process works.
Just amazing! Beautiful work!
Epic series, well done!
Thank you for the awesome content Mr. Coffield 👍
Beautiful casting as ever! Nice one!
Damn, you do some pretty work.
Wow! Very inspiring!
A DOKC-20 21 manifold? I didn't recognize the carb bolt pattern before. (Not 48 IDA Weber). Now I see it's for the Autolite inline 4-barrel. Too Cool!
Very very impressive video Mr Kelly.you motivate me with your every step .thank you for sharing
Ford Logo look sweet!
I’m impressed.
Love your work. Love the Ford parts too.
Excellent work, it's good to know people can still do this sort of work. Todays kids would probably look for an app to do it...
That is absolutely fantastic. Very impressive. Thanks for the video.
That is truly an amazing talent thanks for sharing.
Stunning work. Master level.
Truly amazing. 😎
Great work. You should consider inverting 1 of the 'Ford' logos. Then the lid can be installed in either direction.
Really impressive work! I've been trying to find the actual geometric shape for those cones.. the best I could come up with is pseudosphere or tractricoid
I'm amazed
Fantastic work sir. This really makes me want to make a custom one off intake for my car but I also feel I would be stepping on the toes of an individual who did make them for a while. I have the production piece, its just all the lovely core shift and piss poor machining make it unusable. I've been hacking up a stock unit to make work well enough but... I want more lol. Again, fantastic.
amazing, very impress work as always, thanks for sharing!
Your quality is so good, you should try to get a contract with Shelby America, you could be an authorized provider of OEM authentic parts.
This is some of the best quality content I've seen on casting complex parts. Have you considered casting an exhaust manifold yet from iron? I'd love to see what you'd do differently with iron rather than aluminum. Thanks!
No iron yet. Just haven't had any priotrity iron parts but an exhaust manifold would be a well suited part for LF. Would be same process but may require higher refractoriy coating for ferrus work. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Could your rig get hot enough to pour cast iron?
@@AccuracySpeaks Not with the resistive electric heat source, but the refractory insulation is modular and can be converted to a fuel fired furnace in a few minutes. Best, Kelly
Super, as usual!
Absolutely amazing. How does the sand not move when the molten aluminum is poured in? Seems to me like it would all cave in but it doesn't. I'm going to keep researching this and then start making my own molds as well.
It is one of the confounding things about lost foam, but don't assume because there is no binder that it it is not bound at all. The vibration packs it very tightly and it is bound by friction/interference between each irregularly shaped grain of mold media. Though not as strong as bound media, it is much different than just loose sand. The pattern of course supports the mold during and after molding, but the metalostatic (hydrostatic) pressure of the molten metal helps keep the mold media in place as the metal consumes the pattern. This is why if the pour of a lost foam casting is gapped/interrupted, it often causes localized mold collapse and casting failure. Best, Kelly
Bravo !
I think it would have been unique to have the base and filter housing as one piece, cutting out all the inside, and making a stretch band filter media wrapped around the OD. It would be a work of art
Hello,
Your quality of work, and your skill, are quite incredible, and probably unique.
You are doing very inspiring work, and I ask myself the following question: is it possible to cast bronze by this process?
I am asking you this question because I am thinking of making sailboat portholes in bronze, and your process seems to me suitable for amateur manufacture.
Thank you again for your various vodeos, which provoke imagination and admiration, and also for your answer to my question.
Be well, and may God give you a long and profitable life.
Sincerely, from Normandy
Awesome
That looks great, i worked in a foundry for about one year, everything was done with green sand, so what i see here is there is no binder in the sand, the aluminum just displaces the foam without the sand falling in, really that i would not think possible, i looked in your videos but did not see you go into what the sand is, looks like dry playground sand, i think i need to try this. thanks for your effort.
It's just 50-70 mesh silica sand, washed, and dried. Typically used for mortar mixes and available at the big box stores. Not play-sand. That stuff sucks. I have close friends that are life long foundrymen that owned their own foundries. Years ago, when I first started lost foam casting, I invited them over, showed them a foam pattern with cores and voids, undercuts and backdrafts, and, told them what I was going to do to mold and cast it. They just shook there head and said, "I thought we taught ya better". When the casting came out of the sand there was a long period of silence before convesation ensued once again....🙂 Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 What is your favorite foam to use for detail? Just insulation sheets?
@@zenvent Yes, Owens Corning Foamular 150, the pink stuff available at retail stores. Foamular 250 os slightly more dense and will finisnish slightly better at the expense of having to evaporate modestly more foam. Both work well for most lost foam parts. Dow has similar material. Theirs is light blue. The color is just branding/marketing. Best, Kelly
This is alchemy!
I hope you don't mind restating this question, which type of foam do you use?
Thank you Sir, very fine skill and excellent teaching.
Take care
Owens Corning Foamular 150. It's 1.3lb/ft3 extruded polystyrene insulation board available at the home improvement stores. I have a video on pattern construction materials with more details. Best, Kelly
Hey Kelly, thank you for all of the videos! Can you give us some information of where you get your lost foam casting material at?
I have a video on the subject if you search my channel for "materials". Best, Kelly
Kelly, nice work - and well explained. Regarding pattern making, do you have to oversize the patterns by 5 or 6 percent to allow for a shrinkage factor when the aluminum cools?
The patterns are 1.3% larger to allow for aluminum shrinkage. Best, K
How much weight did you lose after making the second one thinner?
wearing Loafers while pouring 660°C molten Aluminum, that's confidence... :D :D :D
Hello Kelly. impressive work , the foam patterns are great, is lost wax system similar ? How did you learn 2D cnc ? I want to m/c a flat pattern with multiple curvature, very similar to what a camshaft lobe would look like, but 300 mm / 12" diameter. can you suggest any Y/T tutorials etc .... ta robbie NZ
Your work is amazing and I appreciate all of the helpful information you provide others in your videos. You have inspired me to make a Ford 2.3l intake manifold. I have most the foam work done and am working on the gating system next. Do all high points need a gate attachment to avoid air being trapped or will the head pressure fill them from below pushing the air out through the sand? Thank you!
Lost foam gating is an interesting subject. Gating at high points isn't so much to avoid trapping air, because that occurs through the pattern and coating surface just like the rest of the mold. Moreover, it's to avoid localized mold collapse if the reversing of direction slows the molten metal flow such that the foam evaporates faster than the metal advances. But this isn't always a problem. The downside to multiple contact points on top the pattern is multiple metal fronts must converge into one as they travel down the mold which can lead to defects. Top gating works best if you can contact a massive section on top of the pattern which then tends to naturally spread and feed the entire pattern from top down. This case also produces good directional solidification from bottom up. Another approach like I used on these parts is a long thin contact area the length/depth of the pattern because it minimizes the total distance the metal must flow from the hot/molten metal feed system. I try to keep the cross sectional area of the sprue, runners and gate area similar because if the downstream area becomes too large, the feed system can have a hard time keeping up. But, unlike open cavity conventional sand casting, the lost foam mold fill rate is dictated by the rate foam is evaporated, not strictly gravity and feed system cross section. Fill times on my lost foam molds are usually 2-3x slower than they would be for the same in an open cavity sand casting. Good luck on your intake manifold. Best, Kelly
Amazing quality of work there.
I found your channel by accident just trolling youtube.
Question: How do you "treat" your aluminum ?
What I mean by that is, do you degas the molten aluminum and if so how ?
Do you do anything else to "treat" the aluminum ?
The reason I ask is because I have done a very small amount of casting but each time it appears that the aluminum is porous. It has almost microscopic amounts of "voids" (for the lack of a better term). It then becomes weakened. When you buy a piece of round stock from the machine shop it's perfect but if I pour my own it's not the same quality.
Your casting appear to be perfect.
Thanks for any replies.
For the last couple years I've used A356 Ingot in a resistive electric furnace and I dont degas. When I used to recycle a lot of scrap metal, I did degas with argon with a lance I made. If you have a fuel fired furnace keep the burn lean and the pour temp as low as possible to fil your parts and you will minimize porosity. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Thank you very much for the reply. Yes I do use scrap aluminum. Specifically pistons, left over AL from my shop, etc. It's all clean stuff.
Thanks for that tip on low pour temp.
Please make a small 4 liter v10 from Honda parts. If anyone could do it this guy could. Amazing stuff
can you radius the inlet on the base plate?
You might want to consider putting a removable lift arm on your molding cart to lift the extension up so you don't have to fight with it as you did on this one.
Amazing work! In your CAD designs, do you account for shinking in the aluminum? for example, do you say model the part to the exact dimensions, then scale everything up by % when you export to CAM?
Yes, I CAD model 1:1 and do the scaling in the CAM program increasing the size by 1.3% to account for shrinkage. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 thank you for sharing all you have figured out over the years.
How hard to adapt to the taller deck height Cleveland/ Boss 351? The Pantera guys would buy every one, especially with the Autolite inline carbs. Hell, I'd buy a Pantera just to show off one of your induction systems.
Already done. Look at these two videos.
th-cam.com/video/yMrmepjcN18/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ssVVgh9PvtiW7pX6
th-cam.com/video/mqriVTlzGic/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hgT_gL_mazGYWNZK
Best, Kelly
what kind of glue do you use for your foam patterns?
Hi there,
With the lost foam method is there more porosity with the end result casting,
as I noticed in one of your vids you talked about sealing the parts with Loctite.
I deal with the sand casting system via the local foundry and don't have lots of porosity, occasionally but not to bad. is there ways to off gas the parts more effectively, just wondering.
Thanks for all the videos
In general, I'd say LF is no more or less prone to porosity. IMO, most of the issues with porosity are related to aluminum, it's affinity for hydrogen and H2 related porosity, and general melt management to prevent such. If done properly, lost foam may actually be less suspectable because none of the byproducts of decomposed PS Foam are soluable in molten aluminum and the mold media sand is dry (no binders to emit gases that are soluable in molten aluminum). The downside of LF, is it requires a slightly higher pour temp and the solubility of hydrogen is a function of temperature, but IMO this is a very minor difference. For melt management, I use a resistive electric furnace. It is very clean, there are no hydrocarbons present, and the furnace atmosphere is most likely inert. Best, Kelly
In regard to vacuum impregnating castings, I use to use a lot of dirty scrap and remelt. It was harder to get that metal gas free. I built a good degassing lance and those issues ceased. I also poured hotter in those days which likely wasnt helpful. I've since started using virgin ingot and do not degass, and have had zero issues since, so the loctite hasnt seen the light of day since. Best, Kelly
Beautiful cross-boss parts. Will you be doing the single-quad intake as well?
Maybe! Best, Kelly
Love the content, very interesting. Can you do these patterns with 3d printing and do a sort of lost PLA casting?
No. There were supposedly a couple companies working on such but expnaded polystyrene foam is feather light and the filament would need some kind of foaming agent which I'm sure would be very hard to control expansion. For now, it's cuttings with the CNC router instead of additive printed construction. Best, Kelly
Just curious....on the manifold pours..did you have enough v-moulds to pig the whole crucible if the main mould went south?
No, I only had about 30lbs of ingot tray provisioned, but if necessary, the crucible could have been returned to the furnace while the first round of ingot froze. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 LOL I figured you would have something figured out incase....all of your work seems to be well thought out....you seem to be a good guy to learn from....the comments show that!
how small of a piece can you make? Very interesting technology.
In theory there is no limit as to how small but in practice, the ability to produce acceptable detail and finish on the foam pattern is the limiting factor. So for simple parts, maybe 1/16 thick by 1". If I was making jewlery or artwork, I'd use lost wax or 3D printed pattern media, and either investment or shell casting. This will reproduce finer details and finishes. But for larger machine parts, IMO, lost foam is much less laborious, more versatile, practical, and economical for small quantities and home hobbyists. Best, Kelly
Beautiful work! Do you need to make the mold oversized for any shrinkage? Im thinking about giving this a shot to recast a component thats no longer available and some of the dimensions is critical. Thanks.
For aluminum I make the patterns 1.3% (.013" per inch) larger to account for shrinkage. Best, Kelly
Thank you for your time, Kelly. Maybe once I get the part laid out, Ill share it with you.
Can you please tell us what the matrial/s you are using for the coatings, dipping?
Search my channel. There is an entire video dedicated to coatings. Best, Kelly
Thanks for the content, great stuff. I've seen others commenting on the audio, which sound muffled on most of the videos I've seen so far. Are you using an action camera with a sealed weather case around it? It sounds like the microphone is covered up by something. Edit: guess not, the muffled sound comes and goes.
It's because it's an old phone mounted behind me on a tripod so I am speaking away from the speaker. Admittedly the audio isn't great, the finned cylinder casting video is the worst, but I can easily listen to all of them on every device I own with volume up. I guess I'm more interested in casting than making spiffy videos and am more likely to attract a like minded group of viewers. K
GOOD كم تكلفة المشروع
Would it not be easier to lift the extensions off with a crane?
With the long lever handle on my molding rig I've actually found that I can control the dump just fine with the extensions so that's what I do. Best, Kelly
Hi Kelly! Is your furnace DIY or is it a commercial product?
I built it from scratch. Best, Kelly
If you dont mind I'd like to know what you use for the refractory coating and roughly the cost I'm looking to cast an engine block and cylinder head and need something to get my foam patterns with
I use REFCOTEC PolyCap 600. There is a 600lb minimum buy and will set you back $600 so best to find someone to share the cost. Drywall joint compound will work nearly as well for aluminum, is very inexpensive, and commnly available. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 awesome thanks so much. I'm just looking to cast aluminum anyways. You think plaster of Paris might work? Like in a slurry
@@kellycoffield533 I was considering g trying my own mix to test. Probably a bottle of Elmers glue and plaster of Paris mixed with water
@@lukeamato2348 If you thinned itto the right consistency, yes. But dry wall mud (nonsetting joint compoubd) the additives that make it better for joint compound also make it better than just PoP for a lost foam refractory coating. Better in respect to surface coverage, dryinng, and permeability. A thin coating (enough to turn pink foam white) is sufficient. Thicker doesnt necessarily mean better. Best, Kelly
Is there any foam you can use that can be poured into a cavity??
Not that I'm aware of. The commercial operatins use pre-expanded beads in metal molds and then us steam to expand and bond those into patterns. It's a pretty involved process easily as complex as the rest of theprocesses combined. Two part epoxy and urethane foams do not work well. No printed materials that will burn out like foam either. Best, Kelly
Is licensing an issue when casting the parts as long as your not selling the parts for profit?
Probably so but I'm not offering such for sale, just my own personal use so I dnt think Henry will feel too threatened. Best, K
@@kellycoffield533 I don’t know about that,,,,, I heard he could be a son of a gun,,,, may have it done from beyond the grave just to prove anoint,,,,,lol.
LOVE this stuff,
Been interested for years, never realized lost foam could be done "at home" so to speak. This is freaking awesome.
And what kind of refractory coating did you put on this model?
A commercial product called REFCOTEC Poly Cap 600. But if you search my channel for a video "Refractory Coatings for Lost Foam Casting Patterns" I discuss thta and the use of drywall joint compound. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Can I link to this video? Thank you in advance.
@@СоловьевВладимир-ъ1в th-cam.com/video/LdgGkqvk5mc/w-d-xo.html
Kelly, Are you still using a low temp hot glue gun? Great parts by the way.
Yes with the lowest melt temp glue I can find, for the quick sticks. For longer work time I use various forms of PVA glue, but all as sparingly as possible. Best, Kelly
Parabens gostei
I would like to put that on my 65 mustang 289/306
So would you be interested in making a manifold for me? The ford manifold is very close to my poly 318 intake, there is no aftermarket manifolds for my motor, I have an old cris craft marine manifold that looks similar to the one you created , if you might be interested I'd like to discuss my idea?
If you're only armed with an idea, not likely. The reverse engineering of the diemsional layout and features takes a lot of time. The cost of doing that and writing the CAM program are very large compared to cutting the pattern and casting it. Interest will vary depending on the project, but realistically, for me to consider it, someone would need to have a surface model for the pattern ready to cut on a 3-axis cnc router. Best, Kelly
Kelly do you do commissions ? How can I contact you ? Thanks
contact info at www.inlinecarb.com
@@kellycoffield533 Did you get my email?
@@______5293 At the moment I have many emails and I can no longer see your TH-cam ID so hard to say. Best, K
Put ya a vee band clamp on the bottom of your mold hopper and let the sand fall out the bottom.
I can never hear your audio,love the vids but volume is too low.please increase.cheers mate
Cannot believe that you have Autolite inline carbs , you travel down dark roads .
I collect, buy, sell, and build systems for them www.inlinecarb.com Best, Kelly
10:39
pls fix your audio Kelly
Audio is the only issue I have.