I love how people/kids, are saying how this option is bs, and to just scrap the stick, and buy a new one. Fact is, not all of us are super rich, or have daddy to pay for a new $300 stick, three times a year. I think the video if absolutely worth a try. Sure, some will tweak to their own liking. It's videos like this, that allow me to keep playing men's league, while allowing my boy to play squirts. Awesome video man, and thanks! A+
+Matt Hansen not all sticks are $300. In fact, last season I bought a stick that was a previous year model (for $300) and I got it for a cheap price of $65.
I used industrial strength epoxy, it hardened harder than bone. I injected it into the bottom of the blade where it was completely splitting until it over flowed. let that cure for 24 hours. used a 40 grit, yes 40! on an orbital sander to sand smooth. next, I used fiberglass cloth and resin/ hardener from home depot. mixed resin and hardener, thin coat on entire blade, stuck the fiberglass cloth on, and glazed a nice coat all over. let dry over night and sanded rough edges and air bubbles out. re did another coat of resin as a final smooth sealing coat. after 24 hours, sanded, painted, and applied a clear satin shellac. literally amazing, would never know it was broken. sounds like a pain, but it's not at all. so fun to do!!
Thanks for the comment K. There is no doubt that the quality of a repaired stick isn't quite as good as a new stick. However, there is little to no difference in feel and a very tiny difference in weight (repair ads about 3-7 grams to the stick - less than the weight of the tape on the blade). We can't feel any difference. You've definitely got very little to lose by attempting to fix a broken $300 stick. The value of the stick in a broken condition is $0. The repaired high-end sticks perform better than brand-new low-end sticks. In my experience, the low end composite sticks are heavy, have vague puck feel and have very poor durability in the hands of a 100 kg player. I prefer wood to low-end composite sticks. Ultimately, if you've got equipment that works for you, cost per use is the next most important selection criteria. Extending the life of a $300 stick even by 10% for the cost of $10 in materials means that the cost for each additional use was less than the costs of each use between initial purchase and the initial breakage. We've gotten more use out of the RS in the video since repairing it than we did between when it was purchased new and when it originally broke. At this point, the cost per use is less than the last low-end composite hockey stick that we purchased (a $100 composite with a shaft that broke in 2 the second time I used it).
Hi Christopher, The 24 hour epoxy you can find at hardware stores will be fairly similar to the stuff I used. Even better is West Systems. It can be found at some specialty wood supply houses (A&M Wood Specialties in Cambridge carries it), as well as boat repair supply houses and possibly high performance car/paint shops. I wouldn't recommend using plain glass, or even Kevlar as a filler. It isn't nearly as strong or stiff as Carbon. Carbon can be found at boat building supply stores and possibly high performance car shops. It can also be found in small quantities at hobby shops (where you find radio controlled airplanes). Here's an online source of these materials... www.acpsales.com/Clearance-Inventory-Sale.html Hope this helps!
Hey cool video, thanks for the detailed steps! Yeah, go out and buy a stick sure... but you'd be missing out on all the fun of repairing your own (it actually sounds more exciting than playing hockey :P )
how much does it cost to get all the parts together and can you list them??? plaster, epoxy, carbon fibre etc. thanks i wanna try this - btw how long did your stick last after the repair?
Also, can you buy extra carbon somewhere? Do you recommend trying fiber glass? This is the same way that people fiberglass, right? Just instead of using fiberglass netting and epoxie you're using carbon fibre and epoxy
Hi Lucas, thanks for watching and commenting! If you've done these things a few times, it's not that complicated anymore. The plaster was about $10 and I've got half a bag left for other casting projects. The bucket cost me $2.99. Cost-wise, I could repair a stick 15 times or so before I got to the cost of a new stick. We nursed a stick that my son liked through 2/3 of his season last year with this technique. He'd bought it at 1/2 price, and didn't want to pop $300 for a new stick or go to a cheaper, heavier stick he knew he wouldn't like. Time wise, it takes me about the same amount of time to get in my car, go to the store, buy a stick and drive home that it takes me to do the labour involved in doing one of these repairs. I guess it's a matter of your comfort level with casting and lay-up techniques. Hopefully, some people will experiment with making and repairing composite items after watching this video.
Do you have any advice for materials I could pick up at Home Depot? What I mean is, the materials you're speaking of sound very technical and hard to find. Are there any generic epoxies that would work well? Have you ever fixed a broken shaft with this method?
What epoxy do you recommend using? I tried with Permatex Perma Poxy 30 min High Strength Epoxy and it didn't hold up. Also tried with liquid fiberglass and fiberglass cloth, but that just crumbled.
Hi Shaun, I used a 1:1 epoxy that I bought 20 years ago when I was manufacturing carbon fibre landing gear for R/C airplanes. The cure time is 24 hours at 20ºC. It is strong and offers a bit of flex and impact resistance, but is very high viscosity and it's tough to get it to flow without heating it, which can cause curing problems. West Systems makes some excellent epoxies that offer lower viscosity, and a variety of cross-linking levels. The more cross-linked, the harder the cured epoxy will be. You want one that offers some flex at the very low temperatures that the stick will see (at least ours do on the outdoor rink). Best bet is to visit their web site and let them recommend a product for this application.
+365 Hockey life Sorry for the delay! Very busy week... You'll need a good laminating epoxy (2 parts) such as a West Systems or Store brand (from plastic's supply or boat building shop - not a Hardware store type epoxy). Can also be found at some specialty wood shops such as Exotic Woods in Burlington Ontario, and A&M Wood Specialties in Cambridge. You'll need about 5 g of carbon tow. This looks like black hair on a spool. You can get it at plastic/boat-building shops or at Hobby Stores catering to R/C airplane builders. You'll need about 3 x 3" of carbon fibre 5 oz standard weave cloth. This can be found at either plastics/boat-building supply shops or at some hobby stores. You'll also need some Solo cups or the like for mixing up your epoxy as well as a suitable stir stick. Mix the epoxy very well and if you need it to be runnier, heat it gently. Diluting it with a solvent greatly weakens the final strength. Composites Canada - Meyerside Mississauga Plastic World - Chesswood Toronto (not far from Chesswood Arena)
While this may be a good method, I don't think it is worth your time so a temporary solution is to buy a middle of the line stick (ex: Bauer vapor x800) and use that
Hi Max, I've done this in the past, though with shafts that transition to an oval cross-section, or ones that taper down over the bottom 1/3 of the shaft, this doesn't work very well. Essentially, the choice is between fixing the blade or throwing out the stick. For what it's worth, when putting a blade in a shaft, I think the Easton Ultracarbon has the best combination of price, feel and durability. My favourite blade was the Easton Focus Flex, but I found that they tended to crack from the top of the blade downward far to early.
STREETCORONER , I cannot for the life of me find a location in the St. Louis area that sells carbon fiber cloth or tow. Can you help point me in the right direction
Try Radio Control hobby shops or online suppliers. If not, then look at boat building supply or plastic supply houses. Finally, Aerospace Composites out of California stocks these items. Also, Zoltek is based in St. Louis and is a major carbon supplier. Give them a call see if they will sell small quantities direct to consumers. Hope this helps!
It does. i ended up looking on amazon and found an epoxy (link here) ( www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BR2KNP2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER ) and some 12k carbon fiber (link here) ( www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017OF0N4Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2E498AYYT4IOM ) do you think these will work well. I have 2 sticks to repair, one is a simple cracked bottom of a blade, not to dissimilar from the video and feel a liquid epoxy will serve fine. The other, however, has been used for street hockey and has eaten away a fair amount of the bottom of the blade where you can see foam pretty well from heel to toe. I was wondering if perhaps and epoxy puddy might be a good starting point on this stick to fill in the gap and build back up a portion of the bottom of the blade. would certainly be easier to work with for a beginner. Also, is there anything that i could add to the 2 part epoxy to mix in that would help build up a consistency that would be more puddy like? If so, do you have a suggestion of type of product (puddy epoxy) to use? Thanks again for your help
Hi Lee, There are things you can add as fillers, but they tend to make it less strong. If I was going to rebuild a missing area, I'd proabably just build it up with chopped up carbon mixed with epoxy.
And in the same amount of time it takes to do all this you can collect enough pop cans to pay for a new stick. On top of it, it does seem like the cost of the materials wouldn't be inexpensive to make this repair. Just doesn't seem like a great investment of time or money. Lots of good midlevel twigs for $75 dollars out there that will last for a couple of seasons.
antander55 yea I use 75$ twigs all day and they work just fine they just a bit heavier than the $300 ones. But to get the supplies to do this repair is gonna cost half of a stick already
I turned in two full 55 gallon barrels of crushed pop cans to a metal recycler about 15yrs ago. That netted about $70 then. That's many years worth of cans.
Interesting. How is the balance and weight after? FYI here is the best stick I've ever used and the best part is the price, 89 bucks. All the bells and whistles, same as a the high end sticks: www.allblackhockeysticks.com/ I never pay full retail price for hockey stick. It's simply not worth paying double or more when you can get a sale or clearance stick, but these sticks still beat the top of the line sticks as far as I am concerned.
Do not do this. It will decrease the quality of the stick as well as the performance. Just get a new stick. It really dosen't have to be a bauer apx2 or something. hockey is all about skill.
or I can just buy another one, by the time you pay for materials and the frustration you'll experience trying to fix it.........in other words, no thanks.
"This video should be called "how to make your stick heavy and loose shot power" +forever hockey Carbon Fibre is used in high performance applications because it is extremely strong and quite light. This process removes about 1 g of foam and replaces it with about 2 1/2 grams of carbon fibre and epoxy, for a net gain of 1 1/2 g on a 400+ g stick. Most serious hockey players are physically strong enough that a couple of grams isn't going to have any effect on how hard they can shoot a 170 g puck. Because the modulus of elasticity of the carbon fibre is exactly the same as the carbon that was originally there, there is no perceptible change to the feel of the blade. I think we've all bought into the fantasy that we need every single little advantage possible to compete. The reality is that if the difference between a 400 g stick and a 410 g stick means the difference between being good enough and not being good enough, we're not a high enough level athlete that we should be taking the sport so seriously. I was "owned" today several times by a guy using an aluminum stick that's probably 100g heavier than the composite stick I was using... LOL!
+forever hockey during flex, the load is carried by the fibers that are being stretched during that particular flex. These will be the fibers on the front of the blade during a forehand and the back of the blade during a backhand. The brunt of the load during flex is always carried by the outer fibers in any composite structure, be it a hockey stick, a racing car tub, an airplane wing, or a surf board. The idea is that as the part is bent away from the outer layer, the outer layer acts like a very stiff elastic band to respond to the load trying to stretch it. This isl what is called "stressed skin" or "monocoque" structure. Same idea with a hockey blade. The internal carbon frame structure is there for three purposes: 1 - to spread the load -bearing layers of carbon the optimum distance apart 2 - to bond the front of the blade to the back of the blade 3 - to provide some compressive strength and torsional rigidity The foam, despite what a manufacturer might claim so that you buy their stick over another is there primarily to fill the voids in the inner structure so that the front and rear face of the blade is held firmly to the mold during manufacturing. For the shaft, a plastic bag is inflated inside the shaft to push it against the female mold while the resin cures, but due to the shape of the blade, this isn't a practical solution for a blade, and a light filler material is used. If you want to check this, cut out two pieces of meat tray the shape of a hockey blade and glue them together with a plastic - friendly contact cement like 3M 77. This will give you a material with similar size and properties to the foam inside your hockey blade. Then flex and twist the assembly in various directions. Now... compare the stiffness and springiness with a good hockey stick blade. You'll find that the blade is so stiff and strong and the foam is so floppy by comparison that by the time it was flexed far enough to create any force from within a blade, the amount of counterforce being generated by the carbon would be so great that any coming from the foam would be negligible. I'm glad that you're interested in this subject of materials and structures! Hopefully, this means you'll head towards material science or engineering in a few years when you're done high school.
+STREETCORONER Hi my name is Patrick, I'm really interested in finding out what you think would be the best stuff to use as well as method to fix a chipped up toe on hockey sticks cause I have about 3 and shafts and heels are great just toe broke down and chipped up! Please let me know what product I should use and method to do that will fill in the toe but give me a nice round finish on the toe so it looks nice and new! Thanks so much!
Hi Paddy, to fix a chipped up end of the stick, I'd Dig out any exposed foam to a depth of about 1 cm. Then I'd chop up some carbon fibers into 3-6 mm lengths,and mix it up with 24 hr epoxy to make a thick paste (with as much carbon in it as the epoxy will handle). I'd then take 2 small (10-15 cm square) of wood, metal or plastic (thin but fairly stiff), place waxed paper on either side of the stick and then use clamps (clothes pins or those triangular heavy paper clips will work well too) to sandwhich the blade and the waxed paper. Then I'd pack the epoxy/carbon mixture into the groove I'd made in the damaged end of the stick and continue to pile it up after that point. When done, I'd have wood, waxed paper, epoxy/carbon mix, waxed paper and then the other piece of wood. This "sandwhich" technique gets the wood to continue the profile of the blade where it was worn down and holds the epoxy/carbon until it hardens. When you take the wood off (1 1/2 days or so), you should have a longer blade. Since the end is now solid carbon/epoxy, I would simply use a hack saw and some coarse sandpaper (backed by a wooden block) to carve the tip back to its orignial shape. I hope this helps!
Thanks for the viewpoints guys. For myself, if someone else was supplying our sticks for free, I wouldn't bother fixing our cracked sticks. But we pay for our own sticks, so I look at it this way... if a few hours of my time over the hockey season cuts our family hockey stick costs by $500 per year, that money pays for another weekend family trip the next summer. At $300 per stick with three of us playing, it doesn't take long to save $500. Maybe Frederick can give his cracked sticks to Brandon. Frederick gets a new stick and Brandon gets a used stick for $10 and some of his time. Both viewpoints should be satisfied.
? $300 a stick w/ 3 of u playing, wouldnt that be $900? Where does $500 come in to play? Not sure what u do or how much credit u depend on, but it is a very privileged sport to be in, ice hockey that is. No sport comes close to amount of $ for equipment, icectime, not too mention, it being at all hours of total day. I hear ya, i would pay $300 or more if i was wealthy, at same time hockey takes practice and heart which has always done as good with a $70 stick as the others w most expensive sticks. Unless u are on a college, trav. jr state, or being paid to play, why would u possibly need $300 stick? I would take ur $300 stick w broken blade, heat the up area where blade inserts, buy new blade which comes pre glued (not going to fix blade) and ready to go. Then sell it back to u for$250 and everyones a winner. Time taken, 30 mns. With unemployment all time high, $300 isnt vacation funds for most, but for food, gas, etc. Why buy new lumber when they sell blades for such reason.
Thanks Brandon, No insult intended. I'd happily accept a cracked stick that someone was going to toss out so that I could fix it and return it to the ice. Ignoring the costs, I just hate to see waste. Replacing the blade is my preferred fix and I've done that several times. I find the Easton Ultra Carbon blade to have good puck feel and I've had some last as long as 2 seasons. Problem is... most current top-end sticks either have a tapered shaft or even a shaft that transitions to elliptical cross-section at the bottom. Reversing the shaft doesn't work any more.
Yes S.C., thats a good point. I played goalie in my glory days, and my Cooper goalie stck lasted 3 seasons, and only mess around now so but just lower end sticks. Thanks for clarifying as my son has caught the bug! OneLove
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I love how people/kids, are saying how this option is bs, and to just scrap the stick, and buy a new one. Fact is, not all of us are super rich, or have daddy to pay for a new $300 stick, three times a year. I think the video if absolutely worth a try. Sure, some will tweak to their own liking. It's videos like this, that allow me to keep playing men's league, while allowing my boy to play squirts. Awesome video man, and thanks! A+
+Matt Hansen not all sticks are $300. In fact, last season I bought a stick that was a previous year model (for $300) and I got it for a cheap price of $65.
not a chance buddy.
This music makes me feel like I’m undergoing brain surgery with the high notes
I used industrial strength epoxy, it hardened harder than bone. I injected it into the bottom of the blade where it was completely splitting until it over flowed. let that cure for 24 hours. used a 40 grit, yes 40! on an orbital sander to sand smooth. next, I used fiberglass cloth and resin/ hardener from home depot. mixed resin and hardener, thin coat on entire blade, stuck the fiberglass cloth on, and glazed a nice coat all over. let dry over night and sanded rough edges and air bubbles out. re did another coat of resin as a final smooth sealing coat. after 24 hours, sanded, painted, and applied a clear satin shellac. literally amazing, would never know it was broken. sounds like a pain, but it's not at all. so fun to do!!
How did that hold up? It's been a while now.
Thanks for the comment K.
There is no doubt that the quality of a repaired stick isn't quite as good as a new stick. However, there is little to no difference in feel and a very tiny difference in weight (repair ads about 3-7 grams to the stick - less than the weight of the tape on the blade). We can't feel any difference.
You've definitely got very little to lose by attempting to fix a broken $300 stick. The value of the stick in a broken condition is $0.
The repaired high-end sticks perform better than brand-new low-end sticks. In my experience, the low end composite sticks are heavy, have vague puck feel and have very poor durability in the hands of a 100 kg player. I prefer wood to low-end composite sticks.
Ultimately, if you've got equipment that works for you, cost per use is the next most important selection criteria. Extending the life of a $300 stick even by 10% for the cost of $10 in materials means that the cost for each additional use was less than the costs of each use between initial purchase and the initial breakage.
We've gotten more use out of the RS in the video since repairing it than we did between when it was purchased new and when it originally broke. At this point, the cost per use is less than the last low-end composite hockey stick that we purchased (a $100 composite with a shaft that broke in 2 the second time I used it).
The high notes in the music hurts my ears. Made it hard to pay attention to what you were saying.
Hi Christopher,
The 24 hour epoxy you can find at hardware stores will be fairly similar to the stuff I used. Even better is West Systems. It can be found at some specialty wood supply houses (A&M Wood Specialties in Cambridge carries it), as well as boat repair supply houses and possibly high performance car/paint shops.
I wouldn't recommend using plain glass, or even Kevlar as a filler. It isn't nearly as strong or stiff as Carbon.
Carbon can be found at boat building supply stores and possibly high performance car shops. It can also be found in small quantities at hobby shops (where you find radio controlled airplanes).
Here's an online source of these materials... www.acpsales.com/Clearance-Inventory-Sale.html
Hope this helps!
Background music sounds like from the movie Trading Places.
Hey cool video, thanks for the detailed steps!
Yeah, go out and buy a stick sure... but you'd be missing out on all the fun of repairing your own (it actually sounds more exciting than playing hockey :P )
John Hawley lmao u don’t even play hockey
the background music 😂😂
how much does it cost to get all the parts together and can you list them??? plaster, epoxy, carbon fibre etc. thanks i wanna try this - btw how long did your stick last after the repair?
Gamejr84 I'm totally with ya
Is there a way to repair a blade with a large gaping crack on the bottom.
I know walmart has this tape tat locks in like cement lol might aswell get that or buy another stick
Also, can you buy extra carbon somewhere? Do you recommend trying fiber glass? This is the same way that people fiberglass, right? Just instead of using fiberglass netting and epoxie you're using carbon fibre and epoxy
so darn complicated and confusing. plus you have to get all of this plaster and clamps. might as well get a new stick
Hi Lucas, thanks for watching and commenting!
If you've done these things a few times, it's not that complicated anymore.
The plaster was about $10 and I've got half a bag left for other casting projects. The bucket cost me $2.99.
Cost-wise, I could repair a stick 15 times or so before I got to the cost of a new stick. We nursed a stick that my son liked through 2/3 of his season last year with this technique. He'd bought it at 1/2 price, and didn't want to pop $300 for a new stick or go to a cheaper, heavier stick he knew he wouldn't like.
Time wise, it takes me about the same amount of time to get in my car, go to the store, buy a stick and drive home that it takes me to do the labour involved in doing one of these repairs.
I guess it's a matter of your comfort level with casting and lay-up techniques. Hopefully, some people will experiment with making and repairing composite items after watching this video.
And after one slapshot its broken again. It will be never as strong as it was before.
Dont do slappers then! My strategy for stick longevity is to shooti snapshots
how long does it last tho
Do you have any advice for materials I could pick up at Home Depot? What I mean is, the materials you're speaking of sound very technical and hard to find. Are there any generic epoxies that would work well? Have you ever fixed a broken shaft with this method?
paint department, 3M makes a fiberglass cloth that's 8sq feet. and get the 3M bondo resin also. comes with hardener so don't buy extra.
What epoxy do you recommend using? I tried with Permatex Perma Poxy 30 min High Strength Epoxy and it didn't hold up. Also tried with liquid fiberglass and fiberglass cloth, but that just crumbled.
Hi Shaun,
I used a 1:1 epoxy that I bought 20 years ago when I was manufacturing carbon fibre landing gear for R/C airplanes. The cure time is 24 hours at 20ºC. It is strong and offers a bit of flex and impact resistance, but is very high viscosity and it's tough to get it to flow without heating it, which can cause curing problems. West Systems makes some excellent epoxies that offer lower viscosity, and a variety of cross-linking levels. The more cross-linked, the harder the cured epoxy will be. You want one that offers some flex at the very low temperatures that the stick will see (at least ours do on the outdoor rink). Best bet is to visit their web site and let them recommend a product for this application.
could you make an equipment list so I could use it to buy the stuff!
+streetcoroner
+365 Hockey life Sorry for the delay! Very busy week...
You'll need a good laminating epoxy (2 parts) such as a West Systems or Store brand (from plastic's supply or boat building shop - not a Hardware store type epoxy). Can also be found at some specialty wood shops such as Exotic Woods in Burlington Ontario, and A&M Wood Specialties in Cambridge.
You'll need about 5 g of carbon tow. This looks like black hair on a spool. You can get it at plastic/boat-building shops or at Hobby Stores catering to R/C airplane builders.
You'll need about 3 x 3" of carbon fibre 5 oz standard weave cloth. This can be found at either plastics/boat-building supply shops or at some hobby stores.
You'll also need some Solo cups or the like for mixing up your epoxy as well as a suitable stir stick. Mix the epoxy very well and if you need it to be runnier, heat it gently. Diluting it with a solvent greatly weakens the final strength.
Composites Canada - Meyerside Mississauga
Plastic World - Chesswood Toronto (not far from Chesswood Arena)
+STREETCORONER thank you!
What is ths music
great tutorial, but I want to know what person cracked their stick and was just like, "This should do it."
+MOƎHU lol
epoxy is magic for early cracks. You can get way more life out of your sticks this way
So sad people have to be so negative. Good video. Thanks for sharing!
While this may be a good method, I don't think it is worth your time so a temporary solution is to buy a middle of the line stick (ex: Bauer vapor x800) and use that
so confusing
WTF
Just use flex tape
what is that shit sound raping my eardrums?
or you can cut the blade off flip the stick over and glue a replacement blade in
Hi Max,
I've done this in the past, though with shafts that transition to an oval cross-section, or ones that taper down over the bottom 1/3 of the shaft, this doesn't work very well. Essentially, the choice is between fixing the blade or throwing out the stick.
For what it's worth, when putting a blade in a shaft, I think the Easton Ultracarbon has the best combination of price, feel and durability. My favourite blade was the Easton Focus Flex, but I found that they tended to crack from the top of the blade downward far to early.
there's an annoying high pitch noise that makes the video horrible.
STREETCORONER , I cannot for the life of me find a location in the St. Louis area that sells carbon fiber cloth or tow. Can you help point me in the right direction
Try Radio Control hobby shops or online suppliers. If not, then look at boat building supply or plastic supply houses. Finally, Aerospace Composites out of California stocks these items. Also, Zoltek is based in St. Louis and is a major carbon supplier. Give them a call see if they will sell small quantities direct to consumers. Hope this helps!
It does. i ended up looking on amazon and found an epoxy (link here) ( www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BR2KNP2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER ) and some 12k carbon fiber (link here) ( www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017OF0N4Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2E498AYYT4IOM ) do you think these will work well. I have 2 sticks to repair, one is a simple cracked bottom of a blade, not to dissimilar from the video and feel a liquid epoxy will serve fine. The other, however, has been used for street hockey and has eaten away a fair amount of the bottom of the blade where you can see foam pretty well from heel to toe. I was wondering if perhaps and epoxy puddy might be a good starting point on this stick to fill in the gap and build back up a portion of the bottom of the blade. would certainly be easier to work with for a beginner. Also, is there anything that i could add to the 2 part epoxy to mix in that would help build up a consistency that would be more puddy like? If so, do you have a suggestion of type of product (puddy epoxy) to use? Thanks again for your help
Hi Lee,
There are things you can add as fillers, but they tend to make it less strong. If I was going to rebuild a missing area, I'd proabably just build it up with chopped up carbon mixed with epoxy.
who noticed the t-rex skull at 3:23
LOL!
Ha no spacial tools
Tried it. Didn’t work.
This is great for the superstitious or if you can't find a stick similar to the one you love.
And in the same amount of time it takes to do all this you can collect enough pop cans to pay for a new stick. On top of it, it does seem like the cost of the materials wouldn't be inexpensive to make this repair. Just doesn't seem like a great investment of time or money. Lots of good midlevel twigs for $75 dollars out there that will last for a couple of seasons.
antander55 yea I use 75$ twigs all day and they work just fine they just a bit heavier than the $300 ones. But to get the supplies to do this repair is gonna cost half of a stick already
I turned in two full 55 gallon barrels of crushed pop cans to a metal recycler about 15yrs ago. That netted about $70 then. That's many years worth of cans.
Interesting. How is the balance and weight after? FYI here is the best stick I've ever used and the best part is the price, 89 bucks. All the bells and whistles, same as a the high end sticks: www.allblackhockeysticks.com/ I never pay full retail price for hockey stick. It's simply not worth paying double or more when you can get a sale or clearance stick, but these sticks still beat the top of the line sticks as far as I am concerned.
Do not do this. It will decrease the quality of the stick as well as the performance. Just get a new stick. It really dosen't have to be a bauer apx2 or something. hockey is all about skill.
High notes are intolerable. Good idea on the video though.
or I can just buy another one, by the time you pay for materials and the frustration you'll experience trying to fix it.........in other words, no thanks.
This video shod
Be called " how to make your stick heavy and loss shot power"
"This video should be called "how to make your stick heavy and loose shot power"
+forever hockey Carbon Fibre is used in high performance applications because it is extremely strong and quite light. This process removes about 1 g of foam and replaces it with about 2 1/2 grams of carbon fibre and epoxy, for a net gain of 1 1/2 g on a 400+ g stick. Most serious hockey players are physically strong enough that a couple of grams isn't going to have any effect on how hard they can shoot a 170 g puck.
Because the modulus of elasticity of the carbon fibre is exactly the same as the carbon that was originally there, there is no perceptible change to the feel of the blade.
I think we've all bought into the fantasy that we need every single little advantage possible to compete. The reality is that if the difference between a 400 g stick and a 410 g stick means the difference between being good enough and not being good enough, we're not a high enough level athlete that we should be taking the sport so seriously.
I was "owned" today several times by a guy using an aluminum stick that's probably 100g heavier than the composite stick I was using... LOL!
The foam in the blade gives you power and you are taking it out
+forever hockey during flex, the load is carried by the fibers that are being stretched during that particular flex. These will be the fibers on the front of the blade during a forehand and the back of the blade during a backhand.
The brunt of the load during flex is always carried by the outer fibers in any composite structure, be it a hockey stick, a racing car tub, an airplane wing, or a surf board. The idea is that as the part is bent away from the outer layer, the outer layer acts like a very stiff elastic band to respond to the load trying to stretch it. This isl what is called "stressed skin" or "monocoque" structure.
Same idea with a hockey blade.
The internal carbon frame structure is there for three purposes:
1 - to spread the load -bearing layers of carbon the optimum distance apart
2 - to bond the front of the blade to the back of the blade
3 - to provide some compressive strength and torsional rigidity
The foam, despite what a manufacturer might claim so that you buy their stick over another is there primarily to fill the voids in the inner structure so that the front and rear face of the blade is held firmly to the mold during manufacturing. For the shaft, a plastic bag is inflated inside the shaft to push it against the female mold while the resin cures, but due to the shape of the blade, this isn't a practical solution for a blade, and a light filler material is used.
If you want to check this, cut out two pieces of meat tray the shape of a hockey blade and glue them together with a plastic - friendly contact cement like 3M 77. This will give you a material with similar size and properties to the foam inside your hockey blade.
Then flex and twist the assembly in various directions. Now... compare the stiffness and springiness with a good hockey stick blade.
You'll find that the blade is so stiff and strong and the foam is so floppy by comparison that by the time it was flexed far enough to create any force from within a blade, the amount of counterforce being generated by the carbon would be so great that any coming from the foam would be negligible.
I'm glad that you're interested in this subject of materials and structures!
Hopefully, this means you'll head towards material science or engineering in a few years when you're done high school.
+STREETCORONER Hi my name is Patrick, I'm really interested in finding out what you think would be the best stuff to use as well as method to fix a chipped up toe on hockey sticks cause I have about 3 and shafts and heels are great just toe broke down and chipped up! Please let me know what product I should use and method to do that will fill in the toe but give me a nice round finish on the toe so it looks nice and new! Thanks so much!
Hi Paddy, to fix a chipped up end of the stick, I'd Dig out any exposed foam to a depth of about 1 cm. Then I'd chop up some carbon fibers into 3-6 mm lengths,and mix it up with 24 hr epoxy to make a thick paste (with as much carbon in it as the epoxy will handle).
I'd then take 2 small (10-15 cm square) of wood, metal or plastic (thin but fairly stiff), place waxed paper on either side of the stick and then use clamps (clothes pins or those triangular heavy paper clips will work well too) to sandwhich the blade and the waxed paper.
Then I'd pack the epoxy/carbon mixture into the groove I'd made in the damaged end of the stick and continue to pile it up after that point.
When done, I'd have wood, waxed paper, epoxy/carbon mix, waxed paper and then the other piece of wood.
This "sandwhich" technique gets the wood to continue the profile of the blade where it was worn down and holds the epoxy/carbon until it hardens.
When you take the wood off (1 1/2 days or so), you should have a longer blade. Since the end is now solid carbon/epoxy, I would simply use a hack saw and some coarse sandpaper (backed by a wooden block) to carve the tip back to its orignial shape.
I hope this helps!
Music ruined great video
No offence your video is very well done , just go buy another stick it will save you some time and headache !!
everyone cant run out and buy a new stick, most hockey brats dont realize this i guess??
Thanks for the viewpoints guys.
For myself, if someone else was supplying our sticks for free, I wouldn't bother fixing our cracked sticks.
But we pay for our own sticks, so I look at it this way... if a few hours of my time over the hockey season cuts our family hockey stick costs by $500 per year, that money pays for another weekend family trip the next summer.
At $300 per stick with three of us playing, it doesn't take long to save $500.
Maybe Frederick can give his cracked sticks to Brandon. Frederick gets a new stick and Brandon gets a used stick for $10 and some of his time. Both viewpoints should be satisfied.
? $300 a stick w/ 3 of u playing, wouldnt that be $900? Where does $500 come in to play? Not sure what u do or how much credit u depend on, but it is a very privileged sport to be in, ice hockey that is. No sport comes close to amount of $ for equipment, icectime, not too mention, it being at all hours of total day. I hear ya, i would pay $300 or more if i was wealthy, at same time hockey takes practice and heart which has always done as good with a $70 stick as the others w most expensive sticks. Unless u are on a college, trav. jr state, or being paid to play, why would u possibly need $300 stick? I would take ur $300 stick w broken blade, heat the up area where blade inserts, buy new blade which comes pre glued (not going to fix blade) and ready to go. Then sell it back to u for$250 and everyones a winner. Time taken, 30 mns. With unemployment all time high, $300 isnt vacation funds for most, but for food, gas, etc. Why buy new lumber when they sell blades for such reason.
Thanks Brandon,
No insult intended. I'd happily accept a cracked stick that someone was going to toss out so that I could fix it and return it to the ice. Ignoring the costs, I just hate to see waste.
Replacing the blade is my preferred fix and I've done that several times. I find the Easton Ultra Carbon blade to have good puck feel and I've had some last as long as 2 seasons.
Problem is... most current top-end sticks either have a tapered shaft or even a shaft that transitions to elliptical cross-section at the bottom. Reversing the shaft doesn't work any more.
Yes S.C., thats a good point. I played goalie in my glory days, and my Cooper goalie stck lasted 3 seasons, and only mess around now so but just lower end sticks. Thanks for clarifying as my son has caught the bug! OneLove
Step 1. Go to HockeyMonkey.comStep 2. Buy a new twig.
Step1. Fuck off. Step 2. Get a job and stop using your parents money to buy a new $450 twig every time your current one snaps
Both my parents are dead, I'm a grown-a$$ man who will spend my money on whatever I want my friend.
Joseph Marruchella but you won't spell ass