You are very welcome. There is nothing worse than getting to the end of a paint job and realizing you have to sand it all back off. I hope this helps you get it right the first time. Thanks for watching!
I love seeing a 67 Chevelle SS being worked on and I'm glad to see some single stage paint being used. The fact you painted it in your garage shows courage and faith. Good job and just sand it down smooth and spray it again! I can't spray single stage matallic very well either, so you're not alone.
With single stage mettalics you Gota do your wet coat , then fallow it right back up with a drop coat in the same coat . If you do a "mist coat" for the mettalic effect like you do basecoat you get orange peel. I have a really early video of me doing single stage mettalics , turned out decant and no streaking.
@@3Wheels1Block yea slow reducer is 100% needed with single stage mettalics . Single stage mettalic is really only good for those "10 footer"'cars honestly lol
I think the worst part of single stage metallics is the fact you really cant cut and buff the trash without distubing the metallics and creating mottle. It really is a lose lose scenario.
I’ve never painted metallic, I hear it is difficult! I looked pretty good, thanks for pointing out the flaws, most people wouldn’t do that! Thanks for sharing Irwin!👍🏽
oh yeah, 1967 chevelle is the most beautiful of all of the chevelles,i had a 1967 el camino,had the best brakes of any car i've ever owned,you lucky lucky man
Over reduce last coat, increase gun distance slightly, fog it so it will melt in, to hide them tiger stripes, they make a integrated clear to mix in the paint for more gloss
I appreciate you posting this, just like others said it's not often you find something like this. Trust me we all have had bad paint jobs but you put it out there to help people and I salute you for that. I read one person post saying that people will get more outta this video than other videos that just show you flawless paint jobs. I love your car also. I'm a mopar guy but I love about all 60's and 70's cars. I have a 70 dart swinger and a 73 barracuda. I haven't finished the video completely but is it a 396? Thanks for sharing my man!👍
Thank you for the kind words. This car has been a challenge and it actually will be reappearing in 2024 on the channel as I try to get it back on the road after a long nap. 😎
hey appreciate this video bc i think this happened to my old bronco a few years back. I think seeing other ppl's fails only helps bc it makes you realize other ppl are putting in all that time too and screw up and have to put even more time in and just grind it out to finish
Thanks for sharing just getting into this didn't have internet when I grew up thank you for being honest it will look great with a little work great or alot more you know what I am trying to say thank you
You are very welcome. I'm glad to share success as well as failure. I ended up doing basecoat clear coat on this car, the end result was great. Thanks for watching! Repaint video is here: th-cam.com/video/4PeY1g8-rRI/w-d-xo.html
I think paint you where using is at fault… but I did notice the overlap in some instances were not 100% consistent. Think robot when painting. And when you did the one side then sprayed the roof I was sweating bullets hoping the air hose wouldn’t touch the side of the car… I learned from that mistake paint the roof first and large panels then do the sides!!! But hey great video!!! Thanks for sharing!
In Europe we work whit single stage metallic only until the end of the 70's! Since then only whit basecoat metallic and clearcoat. This is the one and only best result at the end. The cost are a little bit higher but you do the work only once!
Single stage metallic. Have some tricks, first never mix at the lable recomendations. Go with slow setting activator and slow reducer, if your supplier has Retarder, Yes Retarder pour from the begining retarder. Adjust the fluid neddle and test in a scrap panel. Add a little more reducer to make it flow , and lay down smoother. To prevent runs, close your gun fluid neddle in a way that require a double pass to perform a thin mirror wet. Depends of your gun adjust the air pressure , and play in the scrap panel before spray to the car. Give enough flash time between coats, and to prevent those tiger strips, mix the last coat 1 to1 paint with clear before activator , reducer retarder, and spray a cross cloud. The result is like base coat clear. With the big advantage that last forever. You can polish and buff to easy restore.Thanks.
Most important thing it’s that you tried so don’t feel bad brother I done that my self those type of colors need temperature minimun 80 degrees f also a good compresor so I been there done it and that’s it don’t let this fail stoping you from success good luck next job👍👍👍
As a refinisher for over 25 years and was 10 of those full time in a dealership booth, there is no way I would shoot this colour as a single stage. What’s the point?… save $140 in material and get a terrible job?… if you have gone to this point to prime it, prep it, take out all the dents….. why poop out on the last step of paint work…. Blows my mind. I would wet sand this down in 4 days, reshoot it as a bc/cc job.
I would personally never shoot a metallic out of single stage.... its a ten times nicer result to spray base coat then clear...one more step but you get a deeper beautiful shine.. and you really won't get striping at all with proper drop coat. nice work though man 🤙✌
Most single stage paints are to thick for hvlp high volume low pressure guns,you need a hplv high pressure low volume paint gun is especially designed to spray single stage at 50 psi,which is required to automize single stage paints
@@eddiebarrera147 I did this at 31 with n HTE if I remember correctly, atomization was fine, my reducer was definitely too fast for the heat and humidity, the paint would not layout. I will try another gun and higher pressure to see how it behaves. Thank you for the insight, the single metallic is very picky stuff
years ago our painter at our dealership had to paint many metallics,he had a mixer on his paint gun that agitated the mix in the cup,while he painted,his work was flawless and yours can be too,don't know where he got it,but took the gun home with him every nite,so it must have cost some serious money or it was hard to get,this was in 1985 and we were shooting lacquers till 86,single stage paint is beautiful in the hands of a pro,i've seen many of his dealership jobs and other dealerships hired him to shoot most of theirs,he was a master painter and he told me its all in the technique,yours looks good,wait 90 days till its totally dry,wet sand it and do it again
Wow! An onboard paint agitator, that's wild. I've heard some things old guy used were ball bearings or marbles, but that is something else. Thanks for sharing 👍🏾
It’s striped because you didn’t cross coat you keep going in the same pattern & will never get single stage metallics to look the way you want unless you cross coat your overlaps!! I’ve been painting for over 25 yrs & trust me, I know what I’m talking about!!
@@3Wheels1Block your air pressure & speed plus distance will also affect the outcome, you might want to consider all these things when spraying single stage metallics too!!
Metallic acrylic enamel requires one or two drop coats to orientate the metallic if I’m not mistaken. On that car you should probably do base coat clear coat the job will stay looking good way longer than acrylic enamel. These are my opinions I’m just sharing them with you
Single stage metallics is really tricky everything comes into play prep. Weather technique . Even for a professional if you don’t do the correct process with a wet coat then drop coat mettalicsnwont lay down . If you have high humidity that’s bad also. Didn’t look awful was more blotched then streaky . I would of spent the extra couple hundred bucks for base coat clear coat
My friend on a bad ass ride like the one you have there never used a single stage. Basecoat clearcoat. . Is the way to go . And it’s really not complicated to paint metallics at all .
when spraying metallic, always use alternating and criss cross coating each coat. rotating 45 to 90 degrees from the previous coat, and you wont tiger stripe.
Just painting a car at my shop, A silver two stage paint with same problem no matter how much you stir it wouldn't fully combiine with the flake and sure enough tiger striping, like you I hoped it would spraying but my logic told me it wouldn't, seems some colors are just not compatible
I understand your frustration. With metallic paints you really want to have 50-75% overlap to reduce striping and then back of the panel, turn up the pressure and do a control coat or drop coat. I will be doing a video to cover this.
I am not a fan of single stage metallics. Base coat clear coat all day for me. Solid paints like white are fine single stage and are easy to polish when they fade.
Hi Erwin(?) You had two major issues working against you, ok three lol... air pressure was off which gives you tiger stripes orange peal etc etc effects everything. prob biggest was your spray patterns were wrong. You cut in then spray panels you never ever spray here there then sideways then back there etc. jams n edges then paint is always top down never body panel up. that just puts trash in the air . jams edges roof then side. do sides in one long pass as long as you can handle, when you do a complete fender then door it can partly flash and your overspray goes over everything, if you can do entire side one pass front rear it can turn out much cleaner. also looked like it wasn't sealed or prepainted entirely, avoid spot sealing as this can mess up light shades and give blotches. always spray with 50% overlap. pick a cooler day and use max reducer wi slow activators so the flake has lots of time to lay down. While base/clear is good paint is doesn't come close to what you can get out of single stage when done right.
Thank you for the wonderful comment. After reading through what you said it sound like I should treat a metallic single stage like a candy paint job with long passes or walking the body of the car to avoid the mess I got myself into. Thank you for taking the time to walk through it with me. I think I may try another single stage metallic this fall/winter when it is much cooler 👍🏾.
@@3Wheels1Block When it comes to painting a car, there is always a chance of mistakes. We live and learn though. A single stage metallic paint can simplify a paint job, from what i have seen. I have never sprayed single stage paint though. I guess you have to understand how to lay the single stage paint, as well as how to prepare the paint mix, before you spray it. If you can master single stage or basecoat/clearcoat, you can save yourself a lot of money.
@@3Wheels1Block i have heard if you paint a solid non-metallic color in single stage, there is much less chance of error in the final finish. I think that is because solid colors don't have tiny flakes of metal, as metallic paint does. Maybe the flakes interfere with the spray atomization of the spray gun, so you may have to have your spray gun adjustested properly for metallic paint more so than solid colors. The same would apply for a solid color. I have heard other painters speak of using a slow reducer, before you spray a single stage metallic. Perhaps a slow reducer gives the metal flakes time to level themselves out before they dry, after you spray a coat.
I know it's not easy to paint with. But from history I use to wet then dust coat etc etc . If u constantly wet u will get streaks. Many yrs ago , so what do I know.
Thank you, I may try some more metallic single stage and see if I can lay it better, it will probably be on a more paneled car, these older cars have huge continuous areas to cover with no breaks anywhere.
If you are doing a metallic color best to pay up on the paint there is a difference on how they spray. First warning to me you were in trouble was how little reducer it needed. That paint is thin with no body so you didn't stand a chance imo Been there
Its your technique that wrong. Ive painted msny cars in the past with single stage paint and had excellent results. I always applied a ghost coat and allowed 15 min to flash off followed by a light coat again allowing to flash off for 15 mins then keep applying light coats in different directions but dont spray a finish as ths paint will flow out to a finish by itself. Its the paints flow characteristics that can bad runs and allow the metalic to run inside the paintif you spray a finish. Its a whole new technique compared to cellulose or 2k finishes. A converter was available in the uk that made it set quicker and avoided runs . D9nt know if its available any more. The downside with 1k is that when it goes wrong it can take days to harden enough to recoat. Hope you get it sorted
This was a combination of poor technique and fast activator instead of slow. Thank you for your feedback, I plan on trying another single stage job in the future.
This stuff is tricky especially when it's 100 degrees with the heat index. Check out the other videos, I think you will like how it turned out 👍🏾 I ended up going basecoat clearcoat.
Great question. You definitely want to use slow. If it is a metallic paint, I strongly recommend base coat / clear coat for your best results. It's worth the little extra money.
That didn't lay down bad for single stage.first coat I would have applied a thin,misty coat to get the grip.advice would have been to use a slower activator and thinner.also u need to keep a wet edge,start paint on roof at 1 side,not the centre,then apply paint to a top narrow area such as rear quarter,then work your way down a side,keeping wet paint edge all the time,this minimises dry lines and striping.also don't do vertical swoops after first coat.all paint should be laid in same direction,especially with metallics.hope this helps
Typically on something this size 1.5 gallons of sprayable material will cover the entire body, door jambs, inside the trunk lid and inside the hood. Depending on the color you could be a little more or less. Generally speaking yellow, red, orange, gold's and silvers can be more transparent and require more paint.
@@3Wheels1Block that’s what I was figuring, I have a 92 firebird that I just got, needs to be sanded and resprayed. The clear has peeled and is pretty much gone. But it’s a ttop car, which makes the hood the largest flat spot to paint. Atleast that’s one continuous panel. Your video has been super helpful. Thank you
@@banecker1 congratulations on scoring a 3rd gen! I would sand all the clear off and IF the paint is cracked sand it off as well. Use some epoxy primer over the whole car to seal it up. Then 2k high build and sealer. If the paint is not cracked sand all the left over clear off with 320 stuff that paint up well and spray your basecoat and clear, sealer before base if optional, but I recommend it if your basecoat has been exposed to the elements. 1 sprayable gallon of material will be plenty of paint on a t-top 3rd gen
Sorry for the late response, this comment didn't pop up. For a car this size you would need 2 spray able gallons for a complete job, inside trunk lid, jambs and under the hood.
Single stage metallics arent great. there is no way to wet out hte panel and orientate the metallics. I would stick to base / clear wehn doing metallics and solid colors for single stage.
I would guess that you're unfamiliar with a metallic drop coat, it is pretty common. It is used to even out metallic flake in paint. Also refered to as a mist or top coat. The problem here was the speed of the activator with the single stage metallic paint, I should have gone with extra slow for any hope of a decent finish. With single stage metallic you can achieve solid stripeless coverage or a glass like finish with medium activators, achieving both in 80+ degree weather is nearly impossible, as you can see by the finish in this video. If you want to see the finished base coat clear coat video you will see how much better it worked out. Check the link below 👇 th-cam.com/video/4PeY1g8-rRI/w-d-xo.html
I wouldn't paint my car with single stage paint. I mean I understand its cheaper but if you already spent time doing bodywork and making your car look the best , single stage is not the way to go. But nice video thou, most of us don't have the balls to upload anything lol i know how to do so many things, yet my English is garbage lol that's why I don't take any videos
I agree 100%, this was a color that I thought would work well. I probably should have looked into a base coat and then used clear over it. I think your English is fine, I clearly understood your message. Don't fee like you can't post a video, you never know who you might be able to help out or inspire by doing so.
As others have pointed out, posting an issue helps others avoid the same issue. Thank you for your honesty, it helps us first timers.
Thanks Scott! I really wanted to show how easily things can get outta hand. This was a thought lesson, I hope it helps others avoid wasting materials.
As someone who is trying to learn how to paint a car, the fail videos are worth 100x more. Thank you for uploading this!
You are very welcome. There is nothing worse than getting to the end of a paint job and realizing you have to sand it all back off. I hope this helps you get it right the first time. Thanks for watching!
Bravo for you. Most guys would have never put up this video. Like the other guy said , do a drop coat and that will take care of your stripes.
Thank you. You are correct, a drop coat most definitely will take are of the striping issue.
I love seeing a 67 Chevelle SS being worked on and I'm glad to see some single stage paint being used. The fact you painted it in your garage shows courage and faith. Good job and just sand it down smooth and spray it again! I can't spray single stage matallic very well either, so you're not alone.
Thanks, I appreciate your support 😎
With single stage mettalics you Gota do your wet coat , then fallow it right back up with a drop coat in the same coat . If you do a "mist coat" for the mettalic effect like you do basecoat you get orange peel. I have a really early video of me doing single stage mettalics , turned out decant and no streaking.
Thanks for the tip! I'm sure I need to use slow or extra slow activator also, the paint setup waaaaay faster than I could move.
@@3Wheels1Block yea slow reducer is 100% needed with single stage mettalics . Single stage mettalic is really only good for those "10 footer"'cars honestly lol
I think the worst part of single stage metallics is the fact you really cant cut and buff the trash without distubing the metallics and creating mottle. It really is a lose lose scenario.
I’ve never painted metallic, I hear it is difficult! I looked pretty good, thanks for pointing out the flaws, most people wouldn’t do that! Thanks for sharing Irwin!👍🏽
Single stage metallic is definitely a fine art. I'm glad to share failures to hopefully boost someone's success 😎
oh yeah, 1967 chevelle is the most beautiful of all of the chevelles,i had a 1967 el camino,had the best brakes of any car i've ever owned,you lucky lucky man
Thank you! I really love the styling of the 67 Chevelle for sure. 😁
Over reduce last coat, increase gun distance slightly, fog it so it will melt in, to hide them tiger stripes, they make a integrated clear to mix in the paint for more gloss
You are 100% correct, I will try this on my next job. I appreciate your feedback.
I appreciate you posting this, just like others said it's not often you find something like this. Trust me we all have had bad paint jobs but you put it out there to help people and I salute you for that. I read one person post saying that people will get more outta this video than other videos that just show you flawless paint jobs. I love your car also. I'm a mopar guy but I love about all 60's and 70's cars. I have a 70 dart swinger and a 73 barracuda. I haven't finished the video completely but is it a 396? Thanks for sharing my man!👍
Thank you for the kind words. This car has been a challenge and it actually will be reappearing in 2024 on the channel as I try to get it back on the road after a long nap. 😎
hey appreciate this video bc i think this happened to my old bronco a few years back. I think seeing other ppl's fails only helps bc it makes you realize other ppl are putting in all that time too and screw up and have to put even more time in and just grind it out to finish
You're welcome, it can definitely happen!
Thanks for sharing just getting into this didn't have internet when I grew up thank you for being honest it will look great with a little work great or alot more you know what I am trying to say thank you
You are very welcome. I'm glad to share success as well as failure. I ended up doing basecoat clear coat on this car, the end result was great.
Thanks for watching!
Repaint video is here:
th-cam.com/video/4PeY1g8-rRI/w-d-xo.html
It'll look pretty good going down the road pretty fast.
😅that is one way to look at it.
I'm about to try this, this answers some questions for sure
I'm glad, I hope you have great success!
I think paint you where using is at fault… but I did notice the overlap in some instances were not 100% consistent. Think robot when painting. And when you did the one side then sprayed the roof I was sweating bullets hoping the air hose wouldn’t touch the side of the car… I learned from that mistake paint the roof first and large panels then do the sides!!! But hey great video!!! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Seth, this was definitely a challenge. I appreciate you watching and leaving a comment.
I ended up repairing this car basecoat clearcoat.
You have to walk that metallic. He painted it like it was basic paint. 80 percent overlap is needed and a drop coat before it droes...
Single stage metallics are a pain i always do light coat med wet coat then finish with a dust coat ive gotten good results using that method
Thanks for the tip 😎
In Europe we work whit single stage metallic only until the end of the 70's!
Since then only whit basecoat metallic and clearcoat. This is the one and only best result at the end. The cost are a little bit higher but you do the work only once!
I agree 100% you get a better result with a base coat / clear coat system 😎
Single stage metallic. Have some tricks, first never mix at the lable recomendations. Go with slow setting activator and slow reducer, if your supplier has Retarder, Yes Retarder pour from the begining retarder. Adjust the fluid neddle and test in a scrap panel. Add a little more reducer to make it flow , and lay down smoother. To prevent runs, close your gun fluid neddle in a way that require a double pass to perform a thin mirror wet. Depends of your gun adjust the air pressure , and play in the scrap panel before spray to the car. Give enough flash time between coats, and to prevent those tiger strips, mix the last coat 1 to1 paint with clear before activator , reducer retarder, and spray a cross cloud. The result is like base coat clear. With the big advantage that last forever. You can polish and buff to easy restore.Thanks.
That's a very interesting last step, I never thought of adding clear coat as the last step, but that makes sense for sure.
Most important thing it’s that you tried so don’t feel bad brother I done that my self those type of colors need temperature minimun 80 degrees f also a good compresor so I been there done it and that’s it don’t let this fail stoping you from success good luck next job👍👍👍
Thank you 😎
As a refinisher for over 25 years and was 10 of those full time in a dealership booth, there is no way I would shoot this colour as a single stage. What’s the point?… save $140 in material and get a terrible job?… if you have gone to this point to prime it, prep it, take out all the dents….. why poop out on the last step of paint work…. Blows my mind.
I would wet sand this down in 4 days, reshoot it as a bc/cc job.
I agree, that is exactly what I did. I won't mess with this stuff again 😅
th-cam.com/video/4PeY1g8-rRI/w-d-xo.html
I would personally never shoot a metallic out of single stage.... its a ten times nicer result to spray base coat then clear...one more step but you get a deeper beautiful shine.. and you really won't get striping at all with proper drop coat. nice work though man 🤙✌
I am with you 100% I probably will not ever do this again😂
Most single stage paints are to thick for hvlp high volume low pressure guns,you need a hplv high pressure low volume paint gun is especially designed to spray single stage at 50 psi,which is required to automize single stage paints
Thanks for that information, I have a couple help guns I may do some testing.
@@3Wheels1Block yes sir,single stage are sprayed at 40 to 50 psi.Cant use any less air pressure.
@@eddiebarrera147 I did this at 31 with n HTE if I remember correctly, atomization was fine, my reducer was definitely too fast for the heat and humidity, the paint would not layout. I will try another gun and higher pressure to see how it behaves.
Thank you for the insight, the single metallic is very picky stuff
years ago our painter at our dealership had to paint many metallics,he had a mixer on his paint gun that agitated the mix in the cup,while he painted,his work was flawless and yours can be too,don't know where he got it,but took the gun home with him every nite,so it must have cost some serious money or it was hard to get,this was in 1985 and we were shooting lacquers till 86,single stage paint is beautiful in the hands of a pro,i've seen many of his dealership jobs and other dealerships hired him to shoot most of theirs,he was a master painter and he told me its all in the technique,yours looks good,wait 90 days till its totally dry,wet sand it and do it again
Wow! An onboard paint agitator, that's wild. I've heard some things old guy used were ball bearings or marbles, but that is something else. Thanks for sharing 👍🏾
When l do urethane single stage metalic,l integrate clear in my last coat(about 50%)better shine and the flake stands up.
That's a really good idea 👍🏾. Thanks for sharing that tip
@@3Wheels1Block be sure to mix the clear with hardener separately,then add to your paint.
I have a youtube channel on painting.all the trucks are singlestage with clear integrated.you will see the difference.
@@butchrishel1505 I will check it out, much appreciated 👍🏾
It’s striped because you didn’t cross coat you keep going in the same pattern & will never get single stage metallics to look the way you want unless you cross coat your overlaps!! I’ve been painting for over 25 yrs & trust me, I know what I’m talking about!!
Great point, I will try another one of these in the future. Thanks for the tip 👍🏾
@@3Wheels1Block your air pressure & speed plus distance will also affect the outcome, you might want to consider all these things when spraying single stage metallics too!!
@@Kustompaint2026 thank you, I know it seems to take the perfect combination to get the right result. 👍🏾
Metallic acrylic enamel requires one or two drop coats to orientate the metallic if I’m not mistaken. On that car you should probably do base coat clear coat the job will stay looking good way longer than acrylic enamel. These are my opinions I’m just sharing them with you
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate the feedback, I ended up going with a basecoat clear coat on it.
Single stage metallics is really tricky everything comes into play prep. Weather technique . Even for a professional if you don’t do the correct process with a wet coat then drop coat mettalicsnwont lay down . If you have high humidity that’s bad also. Didn’t look awful was more blotched then streaky . I would of spent the extra couple hundred bucks for base coat clear coat
I agree, this stuff is touchy. I ended up going back with a basecoat clear coat
The stripes are from not having your paint gun at a 90 degree angle across the roof and bonnet.
Thank you for the info 😎
My friend on a bad ass ride like the one you have there never used a single stage. Basecoat clearcoat. . Is the way to go . And it’s really not complicated to paint metallics at all .
I ended up using basecoat - clearcoat. Check out the video here:
th-cam.com/video/4PeY1g8-rRI/w-d-xo.html
I think 2parts of slow reducer is better for that in heat if you had the fast activator
I agree slow or extra slow was definitely needed for this job.
Thank you for the video
You're welcome, thanks for watching and leaving the comment.
when spraying metallic, always use alternating and criss cross coating each coat.
rotating 45 to 90 degrees from the previous coat, and you wont tiger stripe.
Good tip 😎
Just painting a car at my shop, A silver two stage paint with same problem no matter how much you stir it wouldn't fully combiine with the flake and sure enough tiger striping, like you I hoped it would spraying but my logic told me it wouldn't, seems some colors are just not compatible
I understand your frustration. With metallic paints you really want to have 50-75% overlap to reduce striping and then back of the panel, turn up the pressure and do a control coat or drop coat.
I will be doing a video to cover this.
I am not a fan of single stage metallics. Base coat clear coat all day for me. Solid paints like white are fine single stage and are easy to polish when they fade.
I agree 100%
Hi Erwin(?)
You had two major issues working against you, ok three lol... air pressure was off which gives you tiger stripes orange peal etc etc effects everything. prob biggest was your spray patterns were wrong. You cut in then spray panels you never ever spray here there then sideways then back there etc. jams n edges then paint is always top down never body panel up. that just puts trash in the air . jams edges roof then side. do sides in one long pass as long as you can handle, when you do a complete fender then door it can partly flash and your overspray goes over everything, if you can do entire side one pass front rear it can turn out much cleaner. also looked like it wasn't sealed or prepainted entirely, avoid spot sealing as this can mess up light shades and give blotches. always spray with 50% overlap. pick a cooler day and use max reducer wi slow activators so the flake has lots of time to lay down. While base/clear is good paint is doesn't come close to what you can get out of single stage when done right.
Thank you for the wonderful comment. After reading through what you said it sound like I should treat a metallic single stage like a candy paint job with long passes or walking the body of the car to avoid the mess I got myself into.
Thank you for taking the time to walk through it with me. I think I may try another single stage metallic this fall/winter when it is much cooler 👍🏾.
@@3Wheels1Block When it comes to painting a car, there is always a chance of mistakes. We live and learn though. A single stage metallic paint can simplify a paint job, from what i have seen. I have never sprayed single stage paint though. I guess you have to understand how to lay the single stage paint, as well as how to prepare the paint mix, before you spray it. If you can master single stage or basecoat/clearcoat, you can save yourself a lot of money.
@@Slim1423 I agree, there is definitely an art to single stage and metallic paint.
@@3Wheels1Block i have heard if you paint a solid non-metallic color in single stage, there is much less chance of error in the final finish. I think that is because solid colors don't have tiny flakes of metal, as metallic paint does. Maybe the flakes interfere with the spray atomization of the spray gun, so you may have to have your spray gun adjustested properly for metallic paint more so than solid colors. The same would apply for a solid color. I have heard other painters speak of using a slow reducer, before you spray a single stage metallic. Perhaps a slow reducer gives the metal flakes time to level themselves out before they dry, after you spray a coat.
You are absolutely correct, slower reducer give more time for paint to flow out and also more time for a drop coat to even out the flake.
Single Stage 75 % overlap and a light drop coat
Great tip, I will try this on the next go around. Thank you 😎
I know it's not easy to paint with. But from history I use to wet then dust coat etc etc . If u constantly wet u will get streaks. Many yrs ago , so what do I know.
Thank you, I may try some more metallic single stage and see if I can lay it better, it will probably be on a more paneled car, these older cars have huge continuous areas to cover with no breaks anywhere.
If you are doing a metallic color best to pay up on the paint there is a difference on how they spray. First warning to me you were in trouble was how little reducer it needed. That paint is thin with no body so you didn't stand a chance imo Been there
You are 100% correct. Solid colors in single stage is one thing, but metallics are a whole different level. Thanks for your feedback.
At least you have a chevelle .....had white with black stripes
... wasn't real ss car but had the hood....kick myself for selling...buff that shit
Valid point! Thanks for the feedback 😎
Its your technique that wrong. Ive painted msny cars in the past with single stage paint and had excellent results. I always applied a ghost coat and allowed 15 min to flash off followed by a light coat again allowing to flash off for 15 mins then keep applying light coats in different directions but dont spray a finish as ths paint will flow out to a finish by itself. Its the paints flow characteristics that can bad runs and allow the metalic to run inside the paintif you spray a finish. Its a whole new technique compared to cellulose or 2k finishes. A converter was available in the uk that made it set quicker and avoided runs . D9nt know if its available any more. The downside with 1k is that when it goes wrong it can take days to harden enough to recoat. Hope you get it sorted
This was a combination of poor technique and fast activator instead of slow.
Thank you for your feedback, I plan on trying another single stage job in the future.
Have you ever had an easy job turn out to be a mess? I sure have 😂
All the time, oil Changes Rarely Go Well 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@TheLifeOfJayNice 😂I feel ya bro
Uh yeah, exactly same scenario here with #projectoddball, but nonmetallic. I feel ya.
@@jhuntosgarage it can be a struggle.
Best needle size on single stage 1.2, 1.3 is to much fluid, and did not give the flat mirror finish.
Thanks for the info 😎
I was doing a fender, how could do a whole car and not see the problem, l do all my over Lapp's 70 percent
70% is a good rule
Acrylic enamel sucks you should use urethane
This stuff is tricky especially when it's 100 degrees with the heat index. Check out the other videos, I think you will like how it turned out 👍🏾 I ended up going basecoat clearcoat.
@@3Wheels1Block you can't rub Acrylic enamel fades fast straight color urethane can be rub out plus covers fast
For my first time painting a vehicle and my first single stage, should I choose slow activator or medium activator?
Great question. You definitely want to use slow. If it is a metallic paint, I strongly recommend base coat / clear coat for your best results. It's worth the little extra money.
@@3Wheels1Block I'm going for a non metallic paint, since metallic paint tends to be tricky.
@@joniportwood1974 you should be good to go, slow or extra slow is the way to go 😎
That didn't lay down bad for single stage.first coat I would have applied a thin,misty coat to get the grip.advice would have been to use a slower activator and thinner.also u need to keep a wet edge,start paint on roof at 1 side,not the centre,then apply paint to a top narrow area such as rear quarter,then work your way down a side,keeping wet paint edge all the time,this minimises dry lines and striping.also don't do vertical swoops after first coat.all paint should be laid in same direction,especially with metallics.hope this helps
I agree on the slower reducer for sure. Thanks for the advice 👍🏾
Man too bad all that wasted labor and materials.
Tell me about it 😅
I'm agreeing with you mate
Completely covered in paint, including the interior.
The interior of this car was trashed before I got it, currently working on putting it in now.
I’m trying to get my head around how much paint actually is going to into a vehicle of this size. Can I ask what your yield ended up being?
Typically on something this size 1.5 gallons of sprayable material will cover the entire body, door jambs, inside the trunk lid and inside the hood. Depending on the color you could be a little more or less.
Generally speaking yellow, red, orange, gold's and silvers can be more transparent and require more paint.
@@3Wheels1Block that’s what I was figuring, I have a 92 firebird that I just got, needs to be sanded and resprayed. The clear has peeled and is pretty much gone. But it’s a ttop car, which makes the hood the largest flat spot to paint. Atleast that’s one continuous panel. Your video has been super helpful. Thank you
@@banecker1 congratulations on scoring a 3rd gen! I would sand all the clear off and IF the paint is cracked sand it off as well. Use some epoxy primer over the whole car to seal it up. Then 2k high build and sealer.
If the paint is not cracked sand all the left over clear off with 320 stuff that paint up well and spray your basecoat and clear, sealer before base if optional, but I recommend it if your basecoat has been exposed to the elements.
1 sprayable gallon of material will be plenty of paint on a t-top 3rd gen
Thanks for the video, I have a 94 firebird what do you use for the plastic bumper prep?
Sorry for the late response, this comment didn't pop up. For a car this size you would need 2 spray able gallons for a complete job, inside trunk lid, jambs and under the hood.
Single stage metallics arent great. there is no way to wet out hte panel and orientate the metallics. I would stick to base / clear wehn doing metallics and solid colors for single stage.
Great points, it is definitely a challenge
Single stage metallic is definitely not easy for a novice.
You ain't kidding, I got whipped ok this one 😂
@@3Wheels1Block after trying twice I gave up on single stage metallic never again
I feel the same way, I ended up doing base clear:
th-cam.com/video/4PeY1g8-rRI/w-d-xo.html
First of all the man doesn't know what he's doing.he is all over the place with the sprayer.😱
I would guess that you're unfamiliar with a metallic drop coat, it is pretty common. It is used to even out metallic flake in paint. Also refered to as a mist or top coat. The problem here was the speed of the activator with the single stage metallic paint, I should have gone with extra slow for any hope of a decent finish. With single stage metallic you can achieve solid stripeless coverage or a glass like finish with medium activators, achieving both in 80+ degree weather is nearly impossible, as you can see by the finish in this video.
If you want to see the finished base coat clear coat video you will see how much better it worked out.
Check the link below 👇
th-cam.com/video/4PeY1g8-rRI/w-d-xo.html
I wouldn't paint my car with single stage paint. I mean I understand its cheaper but if you already spent time doing bodywork and making your car look the best , single stage is not the way to go. But nice video thou, most of us don't have the balls to upload anything lol i know how to do so many things, yet my English is garbage lol that's why I don't take any videos
I agree 100%, this was a color that I thought would work well. I probably should have looked into a base coat and then used clear over it.
I think your English is fine, I clearly understood your message. Don't fee like you can't post a video, you never know who you might be able to help out or inspire by doing so.
You didn’t lay it wet enough
It was, I didn't get the drop coat on fast enough for sure. It was a lot of car to cover 😅
I know you can do better than that I seen you paint cars better than 🙄
😂 this was quite a while ago. I will do another single stage job in the future to redeem myself 😅
Fuq metallic paint
😂 it can make you feel like that sometimes