So good to see someone who actually knows how to pack a bearing. There's so many these days - mostly seen on youtube - that think you can smear it in from around the side, and it's been one of my buttons for years now. But at least you have gloves - I used to do all mine with bare hands (many, _many_ years ago now) and it's amazing how long it takes to get rid of that greasy feel afterwards. Almost as bad as moly grease. :-)
Thanks mate, yes the TH-cam grease smearers annoy me too. Gear oil is the thing I always use gloves for... new or old, that stuff really stinks. Cheers
Ha ha..... Never tried working on a bike in the nude ! Great stuff I'm a total fan of this rebuild series . Got my own story with a k2 cb 750 awaiting my attention .
funny how when things go wrong we all go to the extreme of what the problem is. when 9 times out of ten it's usually something simple and you've caused yourself all that stress. the only upside is when you find out what it is, the relief feels fantastic.
Looking good Peter won't be long before you go go down to Phillip Island racetrack do a day on the track question your friend Jason Hill is he ok just wondering haven't seen him for a month keep up the good work really enjoy your videos
Peter: A few (hopefully helpful) notes: - Steering head: I don’t know why, but Honda always uses balls. I replaced mine early with Timken as well. Now I have a VTR1000. Same exact problem. - Fuse box: The cover has a hole that is meant to contain a grommet showing on the outside, but on the inside is a little rectangular cavity meant to contain 3 spare fuses. All rubber. You’re missing this bit. - Speedo/tach: I’d worry that because of age they’re inaccurate. Mine gradually read higher and higher with age: about 20% high at 30 years old. This happens because of slow corrosion of the needle return spring. But I may be wrong. Having bit the asphalt early on, and fixed with straightening and some sealant, mine may no longer have been sufficiently weather sealed allowing moisture in to rust that spring. - Fork tubes: If you’re economizing, you really don’t have to replace the better of the 2 tubes. The wear at the bottom will be on the ‘front’ side and there will be a corresponding wear on the ‘back’ side at the top of the slider. These wear marks are from braking and nothing else. I say front and back in quotes because they needn’t be in those positions. Simply rotate the tube 180 degrees and the stressed parts of the tube and slider will bear on fresh unscarred metal.
Thanks Rick, a few helpful tips there. I didn't know about the hole in the fuse box lid until you mentioned it, nor did I think of the instrumentation inaccuracy. I't comments like these that really assist in understanding the bike. Cheers.
Peter, I hate to say this, but it is time for progressive bifocals. I got tired of switching between my regular glasses and readers. Progressive bifocals are the next best thing to normal vision. Love your videos!
Peter, another great video but can I make a suggestion? I found your voice volume was fluctuating quite a bit in this one. Could you perhaps try a lapel microphone or similar please?
Another great video Peter and an inspiration as always. This morning I'm going to borrow a MIG welder a so I can repair my centre stand. I've given up taking it off for now and just need it working so I can rebuild the forks with new stanchions, seals ect. I'll pick up a replacement centre stand later and fit that and a new exhaust at the same time. This will be my first ever attempt at welding and I doubt it will look pretty it by some fluke it looks OK I'll keep it and repaint it off the bike when I change the exhaust. Is Jason OK? He hasn't posted for a while.
Yes, he's interstate. Go for it with your bike... if the welds don't look great, grind them off and have another crack at it... practise on something first and you'll be right. Cheers
Thanks for the advice, well they were not the best looking welds in the world but the centre stand has a lot more corrosion than I thought. It will do for now but I'm about to buy a replacement on ebay. I'm buying fork stanchions and seals this weekend and will rebuild those and then the calipers. I'm going to have to buy a complete exhaust system to go back to twin pipes so will buy it in bits over the next few months as I cant afford it all in one hit and the one I have will be good enough to get her through the MOT and back on the road.
Hi Peter, I am in Phoenix, Arizona and a Fan. I have been watching your videos on the 78 CB750 as I have the same Bike. I have also been rebuilding it, however not to your extent a bit of a different direction. The videos have been a big help. I have a question for you. Where did you find the face plate for the Dash Lights? Thanks and keep up the good work.
i have had hard chroming done here in Brisbane by a company called Rad hard Chroming . They do a lot of those fork struts . it might be cheaper than buying new ones..The jobs they did for me were several rare disc brake caliper pistons which were no longer available from ATE. www.radhardchroming.com.au/
Great stuff peter
So good to see someone who actually knows how to pack a bearing. There's so many these days - mostly seen on youtube - that think you can smear it in from around the side, and it's been one of my buttons for years now. But at least you have gloves - I used to do all mine with bare hands (many, _many_ years ago now) and it's amazing how long it takes to get rid of that greasy feel afterwards. Almost as bad as moly grease. :-)
Thanks mate, yes the TH-cam grease smearers annoy me too. Gear oil is the thing I always use gloves for... new or old, that stuff really stinks. Cheers
Ha ha..... Never tried working on a bike in the nude !
Great stuff I'm a total fan of this rebuild series .
Got my own story with a k2 cb 750 awaiting my attention .
New rule: No showing half-eaten Lamingtons unless you have enough for all of us. : )
Indeed.
a tip to using wad punches,use the end grain of a bit of wood,half the effort and a perfect hole.
Yes, true it doesn't rebound the shock, so all impact transfers to the material. Thanks for that. Cheers
Thanks Peter, all of your videos are great cars and bikes. keep up the good work
Thanks mate, I'll endevour to. Cheers
No looking back! It will all work out in the end. Great video as usual!
It will indeed... just wanted a cheaper bike to build... but may have that sorted. Cheers
Such a great way to spend a cold Sunday evening. 👍
Not when you're outside haha, cheers.
Love hearing it crank over makes it so much closer to being done. Hopefully the budget clears up soon so you can get what you need. Take care man!
Thanks mate, Will start i tomorrow and post it in the next video, cheers.
funny how when things go wrong we all go to the extreme of what the problem is. when 9 times out of ten it's usually something simple and you've caused yourself all that stress. the only upside is when you find out what it is, the relief feels fantastic.
Yes, the relief is something that can't be articulated, but you're right... it's an incredible feeling. Cheers
Nice work Pete! it is going to be beautiful
Thanks Johnny.
ooooh yes , Saturday night at the Groovies.....thanks peter
My pleasure Philip, hope you enjoy it. Cheers
Ha Ha Pete. Moving a bit slower these days. I think it would take a couple of days to do a rear main seal now!
Another cool video Peter, cheers mate.
Thanks mate.
Coming along nicely 😊
Hi bud you do great videos with good content keep them coming soon
As a fellow peter, I enjoy all these comments saying cheers peter, good work peter... :-D
Thank you Peter!
Looking good Peter won't be long before you go go down to Phillip Island racetrack do a day on the track question your friend Jason Hill is he ok just wondering haven't seen him for a month keep up the good work really enjoy your videos
Hi David, Jason's interstate doing a job for work for a couple of months. Cheers
thank you
Peter: A few (hopefully helpful) notes:
- Steering head: I don’t know why, but Honda always uses balls. I replaced mine early with Timken as well. Now I have a VTR1000. Same exact problem.
- Fuse box: The cover has a hole that is meant to contain a grommet showing on the outside, but on the inside is a little rectangular cavity meant to contain 3 spare fuses. All rubber. You’re missing this bit.
- Speedo/tach: I’d worry that because of age they’re inaccurate. Mine gradually read higher and higher with age: about 20% high at 30 years old. This happens because of slow corrosion of the needle return spring. But I may be wrong. Having bit the asphalt early on, and fixed with straightening and some sealant, mine may no longer have been sufficiently weather sealed allowing moisture in to rust that spring.
- Fork tubes: If you’re economizing, you really don’t have to replace the better of the 2 tubes. The wear at the bottom will be on the ‘front’ side and there will be a corresponding wear on the ‘back’ side at the top of the slider. These wear marks are from braking and nothing else. I say front and back in quotes because they needn’t be in those positions. Simply rotate the tube 180 degrees and the stressed parts of the tube and slider will bear on fresh unscarred metal.
Thanks Rick, a few helpful tips there. I didn't know about the hole in the fuse box lid until you mentioned it, nor did I think of the instrumentation inaccuracy. I't comments like these that really assist in understanding the bike. Cheers.
Great video Peter. If I win tatts, I'll buy that CB350 for you. But....I'm never that lucky.
Thanks mate... but I went to have a look at it today and...
Peter Anderson
Hmmmm. Not what you expected?
hi very interesting video really enjoyed it bob uk 10/10
Thanks Bob, very happy with that score. Cheers
That was the chair leg....right! Another great bid!
Lovely video, always love your stuff, great content and informative. No tea this time though...could be where the trouble is ?
Yes, had some tea today and all went together nicely. Cheers
To fix something properly always costs, better than most people say (restored) and all they have done is a bit of chrome and paint
Yes, there's a lot of that, cut corners are always obvious. Cheers
"Unless it's rubber, I use KY for that"😬
Pete, it’s triple clamp!! Haha
Yes there are a few terms for it... perhaps I watch too much American content...
Bikes like this are fetching around 20k now. I am staggered !!
Peter, I hate to say this, but it is time for progressive bifocals. I got tired of switching between my regular glasses and readers. Progressive bifocals are the next best thing to normal vision. Love your videos!
I made the switch but they take some getting used to. They are not for everybody.
This is true. It takes the brain a while to adjust, but after about a week it becomes natural. It sure beats looking for your readers!
Peter, another great video but can I make a suggestion? I found your voice volume was fluctuating quite a bit in this one. Could you perhaps try a lapel microphone or similar please?
Hi Peter How will you test those electrical parts to see if they are still viable ?
ok I will nominate myself for third, ha ha Philip and agree.
Another great video Peter and an inspiration as always. This morning I'm going to borrow a MIG welder a so I can repair my centre stand. I've given up taking it off for now and just need it working so I can rebuild the forks with new stanchions, seals ect. I'll pick up a replacement centre stand later and fit that and a new exhaust at the same time. This will be my first ever attempt at welding and I doubt it will look pretty it by some fluke it looks OK I'll keep it and repaint it off the bike when I change the exhaust.
Is Jason OK? He hasn't posted for a while.
Yes, he's interstate. Go for it with your bike... if the welds don't look great, grind them off and have another crack at it... practise on something first and you'll be right. Cheers
Thanks for the advice, well they were not the best looking welds in the world but the centre stand has a lot more corrosion than I thought. It will do for now but I'm about to buy a replacement on ebay.
I'm buying fork stanchions and seals this weekend and will rebuild those and then the calipers.
I'm going to have to buy a complete exhaust system to go back to twin pipes so will buy it in bits over the next few months as I cant afford it all in one hit and the one I have will be good enough to get her through the MOT and back on the road.
Brewer always seems to get way more for his cars than they are worth. :) But Edd's not the same
Hi Peter, I am in Phoenix, Arizona and a Fan. I have been watching your videos on the 78 CB750 as I have the same Bike. I have also been rebuilding it, however not to your extent a bit of a different direction. The videos have been a big help. I have a question for you. Where did you find the face plate for the Dash Lights? Thanks and keep up the good work.
Hello mate, I just did an ebay search... look for item number 162746623150 the sellers name is classicmotorcycledecals2 he is based in England. Cheers
Thanks, you are a Gentleman and keep up the good work.
Without being rude, rooted if you are an Aussie or rowted if you are a Yank.
No all good mate. Cheers
Hey pete try an earth from the motor to frame
Already done that, cheers and thanks for the comment.
i have had hard chroming done here in Brisbane by a company called Rad hard Chroming . They do a lot of those fork struts . it might be cheaper than buying new ones..The jobs they did for me were several rare disc brake caliper pistons which were no longer available from ATE. www.radhardchroming.com.au/
I think I'm first, ya beauty!
Great work George!!
Keep up the great work, always look forward to your vids
Another cool video Peter, cheers mate.