this video was an absolute godsend for figuring out how to put this thing together. My autistic brain could not for the life of it. Figure out how the instructions worked thank you.
I'm glad that the video helped you out! Sometimes I'm not sure if my video content works well for a general TH-cam audience, so I very much appreciate comments like yours. Best of luck with your vacuum chamber, and don't be afraid to add a little light grease (like Vaseline) to the rubber gasket to help get a good seal. That works for me...
If you get tired of that seal, there is some sort of (epoxy I think?) product that cures into a rubber like material that is specifically made for making seals. I think 3m makes what I'm thinking of. Or of course could probably just use rtv silicone in a pinch. With how floppy that gasket material is, seems like you'll be forever having to clean dust out of it
Very helpful video! I was also confused by the instructions, and figured the rubber seals had to go to SOMETHING. Also cleared up where the oil goes, as where they told me to put it seemed sketchy. Excited to try this out on some epoxy projects!
I just got this kit and your video was very helpful, however it still wasn't working for me so I watched someone else's video and there's something that isn't in the instructions OR the diagrams. The kit came with 2 rubber rings and the second ring is supposed to go on the pot! I can't tell if you know this already because of the angle the camera is at, but i thought this discovery might be helpful to others who were still struggling even after your help :)
Your timing is perfect... Yesterday I reached out to Vevor-US and told them I thought the second gasket was missing from my kit, even mentioned the video to prove my point. I never knew until viewers like you told me. Waiting to see what happens.
I am here because I just received my 3 gallon Vevor kit today and the instructions sucked. "Insert the valve - install the washer and nut". No explanation as to why there were multiple washers and how they should go on (in which order). This is my first pot like this and common sense told me that the rubber went next to the glass, but why were there four metal ones? I didn't want to do it wrong. Thanks for this video! I do resin but not woodwork but this help alone was enough to get me to subscribe!
Thanks Kim! Many import tools like this one leave the assembly instructions to the imagination... Also try a little grease on the seal if it doesn't pull a vacuum... that works for me as well.
Also same... instructions just as vague and unclear as they could get... at least i installed everything correctly by simply thinking logically without need of changing it after watching the vid...
Good video, clear explanation, thank you. 😊 Question: do you think I can heat this vacuum chamber to such to extract volatiles from oil? Or is that a bad idea with this set?
Thank you for watching... I would be careful about using a fixed-purpose tool like this with a heating method for the pot given the softer nature of the rubber hose and vinyl gasket. Perhaps too risky. Also, not sure about the negative impact of VOC / gas-chemical impact to the vacuum pump with your intended use. I think this is marketed and intended for craft work and air removal from epoxy mixes rather than for commercial applications. If the gases you are pulling from your oil won't degrade pump seals, you could warm the oil before adding it to the pot. But, the vacuum does pull even the smallest bubbles from a thick epoxy without heating, so maybe heating isn't required.
Great video! Comparing units as I look for one myself and always seem to find good reviews on Vevor tools. I would have loved to see the clarity on that marble pour though! Maybe if you do one again, a finished comparison model between no vac chamber, and one with so we can see the difference in the amount of air bubbles. Thanks for the information!
I'm planning on buying the five gallon kit from Amazon. Is there any way to guarantee that all the parts are included? I'm hoping to use it to stabilize some wood knive handles and possibly put a roast inside the chamber! Thanks to everyone in the comments.. from Wyoming USA 🇺🇸 👋🤠
While there was some differing feedback from my viewers about gaskets missing or not, new information from Vevor indicates that they sold the kits both ways. One iteration held two gaskets; one on the pot and another on the glass. My version just offered the gasket on the glass top as was shown in the Amazon picture, which still worked once cleaned. Vevor seemed to be pretty accommodating with information once I contacted them. As with all things shipped to your door, all parts are usually there. Epoxy outgassing on wood? Works great. Slow cooking a roast? Maybe not!
I got the same kit from them about a year or so ago and had the same vacuum seal problem. I contacted them about it and there should be another seal that sits on top of the pot, apparently there was a batch sent out that did not include the seal due to a packing error. They very promptly sent me out the seal and I have not had any problem since. Shay
@billallen4793 once the second seal arrived it is an excellent piece of kit, if yours arrived without the second seal immediately get on to them and ask for it. It is a packing error and should be in it. The vacuum pump also works very well for a vacuum chuck. Shay
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful especially since the instructions were some of the worst I have ever seen. I would have missed the circumcision and maybe the oil fill. I don't know if it makes a difference, but no instruction on which end of the hose went where. I installed the tube end on the pump. I used a tack cloth to wipe over the silicone seals to remove any debris and I had no problem with the seal. I reached -25 on the vacuum test, which held steady for 2 hours. I was surprised at how quiet the pump was. I thought the bubbles would have "popped" leaving the top of your pour smooth. How did your small pours turn out?
Yes a few bubbles seem to remain on top of smaller pours as the epoxy hardens. Part of that is that I use faster cure hardeners. For wood, I do it in 2 steps now... First to pull air, then release the vacuum to let the wood suck up the thin epoxy. Then pour the final time with fewer bubble problems. Works good for me....
I can't claim to be any expert on the manufacture of the pump or if other oils could still be used without voiding the warranty or porentially causing a catostrophic failure. I would only use what the maunfacturer recommends for pump oil and stay safe...
I had a really difficult time reading the instructions because of the tiny print and poor photo quality. Mine came with 5wo 3xtra washers and an additional orange seal. I'm n9t sure if I'm supposed to put it on the pot or not... It vacuums and when I turned off the pump, the seal didn't hold, and the air did get back into the pot. I'll fiddle with it and see how it goes. Thank you for this video, you cleared a couple of things up for me.
Hi back... I think the extra washers were there if you needed a tighter seal around the brass fitting, but I didn't need them. Also found that a clean rim and seal are required, and a little light grease in the gasket helps with a seal too.
@@TheFamilyWoodworker Thank you for the advice! I'm just learning how to use it today. I'm mechanically inclined and went ahead and put the other gasket/seal around the pot rim. Fun times ahead!
Not sure if it helps equalize the pressure inside the gauge or something else... It was just a little instruction on the gauge sticker without any mention of the need to snip it off in the instruction book.... I did it, because I spotted the sticker. Maybe it's no big deal. If anyone else knows, please add a comment!
The rubber seal on top of the gauge is covering the factory filling hole for the silicone oil to be inserted into the gauge. The liquid inside dampens the whole gauge from any vibration in order to have a clean reading at any time given. That little tip which may be either cut off or left as-is is for transportation purpose to prevent that said fluid from leaking / spilling and making a gooey mess everywhere. In fact, it's a breather hole for the gauge to compensate against the constantly varying atmospheric pressure, to ensure an accurate reading at all times. I left mine on. I have been working with pressure gauges for over two decades, and can tell that any dry gauge's needle rattle blurry like crazy when being exposed to ( in- ) direct vibrations are hard to read. Most measure liquid pressure, and boy, their pressure spikes they transferr immediately slam on the needle, you can see it zipping across the scale. What I mostly do is close the valve attached to it and slowly open it until the needle starts to move again to get a decent reading. By barely opening the valve, you make a make-shift orifice which greatly restricts any pressure spikes. But only do this on cross-fitted gauges, never close any crucial valve to stop the medium from flowing freely.
@@Bandicoot803 Best explanation yet on the purpose of the fluid inside the gauge and that little snip job that the manual doesn't elaborate on. Thanks for the follow up!
Honestly, for the projects you're describing, you'd probably be better served by a pressure pot instead of the vacuum system. with the walnut pour that you did initially, putting it under pressure would essentially compress the bubbles to be undetectable. I use a pressure pot fairly regularly for making blanks for the things I turn. That being said, i have just purchased a vacuum system as well for removing bubbles from the epoxy, but i'll be putting the epoxy in the vacuum prior to pouring it over what I'm casting. just my .02.
I appreciate the feedback and your experience using both tools. Others have noted the same benefits of a pressure pot. Looks like I need to put another tool on my list....
I'd suggest getting a small tub of silicone grease. Lightly tap your finger in the grease and lightly glide your finger around the top rim of the chamber. Remove dust prior to applying the grease. I'll bet this cuts your vacuum issue down a bunch of not completely. Thanks for the detailed video. I recently bought vevor freon manifold gauges which I'm not crazy about.im used to my old gauges I used for 35 years. Was looking at recover units when I saw your video.
Read my mind... It was after I published the video, but I wound up using lithium grease lightly on the gasket and that helped with an immediate seal. That seemed to work consistently for me. Thanks for watching!
@@TheFamilyWoodworker I don't know why I just thought about this(possibly because I'm watching a movie called Fatal Instinct with Armand Assante) and Rosie Odonnell was screaming in the background but it would be funny to take a Barbie doll and place her in the canister with the epoxy resin and pull a good vacuum. If it all goes well she'll be forever preserved with the vacuumous look on her imploded head. Just a funny visual in my mind
The blue version might be the newer model... I'm finding that with imports from China, the pumps and parts and accessories change depending on availability over there.
I had only learned about Cactus Juice a couple months ago; sort of expensive, but I might give it a go in a follow up video. I agree, a thin epoxy penetrating the wood grain is the best solution...
@@TheFamilyWoodworker Can you measure this with empty chamber? The pump is rated rather low 5 pa = 0.03 mm hg. This pump is advertised for hvac. Can you get room temp 20C water to boil in vacuum chamber? Your mentioned -27mm Hg is 3599 pa.
@@akierum Hey again. I think you're asking me HVAC questions I just can't answer and requesting additional work I can't deliver. Too busy working on a dining table for my daughter right now... Best...
@@TheFamilyWoodworker I just asked to test if water at 20c boils in vacuum chamber, you can get chart of water pressure boil temperature. This can help determine real vacuum your pump can make.
this video was an absolute godsend for figuring out how to put this thing together. My autistic brain could not for the life of it. Figure out how the instructions worked thank you.
I'm glad that the video helped you out! Sometimes I'm not sure if my video content works well for a general TH-cam audience, so I very much appreciate comments like yours. Best of luck with your vacuum chamber, and don't be afraid to add a little light grease (like Vaseline) to the rubber gasket to help get a good seal. That works for me...
If you get tired of that seal, there is some sort of (epoxy I think?) product that cures into a rubber like material that is specifically made for making seals. I think 3m makes what I'm thinking of.
Or of course could probably just use rtv silicone in a pinch. With how floppy that gasket material is, seems like you'll be forever having to clean dust out of it
Loved the video by the way!
@@theodorekorehonen Use a tack cloth that is used in woodworking prior to applying a finish.
lmao that is exactly why im here hahha
Hi Mark! Thanks for the video, helped my sanity on the setup for sure!
My pleasure... Will be doing an updated video on Vevor products and customer service in the coming weeks. Stay tuned!
Very helpful video! I was also confused by the instructions, and figured the rubber seals had to go to SOMETHING. Also cleared up where the oil goes, as where they told me to put it seemed sketchy. Excited to try this out on some epoxy projects!
It still works well, but I need to grease the seal once in a while to help get the vacuum started. Best wishes on your projects!
I just got this kit and your video was very helpful, however it still wasn't working for me so I watched someone else's video and there's something that isn't in the instructions OR the diagrams. The kit came with 2 rubber rings and the second ring is supposed to go on the pot! I can't tell if you know this already because of the angle the camera is at, but i thought this discovery might be helpful to others who were still struggling even after your help :)
Your timing is perfect... Yesterday I reached out to Vevor-US and told them I thought the second gasket was missing from my kit, even mentioned the video to prove my point. I never knew until viewers like you told me. Waiting to see what happens.
Thank you. Your video was actually quite useful.
@@arods Thanks for checking out our video! Glad it helped...
Thank you for sharing your expertise Sir.
I am here because I just received my 3 gallon Vevor kit today and the instructions sucked. "Insert the valve - install the washer and nut". No explanation as to why there were multiple washers and how they should go on (in which order). This is my first pot like this and common sense told me that the rubber went next to the glass, but why were there four metal ones? I didn't want to do it wrong. Thanks for this video! I do resin but not woodwork but this help alone was enough to get me to subscribe!
Thanks Kim! Many import tools like this one leave the assembly instructions to the imagination... Also try a little grease on the seal if it doesn't pull a vacuum... that works for me as well.
Do I really need to cut the tip of the plastic nob ? What’s the purpose?
Same lol
Also same... instructions just as vague and unclear as they could get... at least i installed everything correctly by simply thinking logically without need of changing it after watching the vid...
Good video, clear explanation, thank you. 😊 Question: do you think I can heat this vacuum chamber to such to extract volatiles from oil? Or is that a bad idea with this set?
Thank you for watching... I would be careful about using a fixed-purpose tool like this with a heating method for the pot given the softer nature of the rubber hose and vinyl gasket. Perhaps too risky. Also, not sure about the negative impact of VOC / gas-chemical impact to the vacuum pump with your intended use. I think this is marketed and intended for craft work and air removal from epoxy mixes rather than for commercial applications. If the gases you are pulling from your oil won't degrade pump seals, you could warm the oil before adding it to the pot. But, the vacuum does pull even the smallest bubbles from a thick epoxy without heating, so maybe heating isn't required.
Great video! Comparing units as I look for one myself and always seem to find good reviews on Vevor tools. I would have loved to see the clarity on that marble pour though! Maybe if you do one again, a finished comparison model between no vac chamber, and one with so we can see the difference in the amount of air bubbles. Thanks for the information!
Hey man, thanks for tuning into our channel! Hopefully more epoxy projects to come next year...
I'm planning on buying the five gallon kit from Amazon. Is there any way to guarantee that all the parts are included? I'm hoping to use it to stabilize some wood knive handles and possibly put a roast inside the chamber! Thanks to everyone in the comments.. from Wyoming USA 🇺🇸 👋🤠
While there was some differing feedback from my viewers about gaskets missing or not, new information from Vevor indicates that they sold the kits both ways. One iteration held two gaskets; one on the pot and another on the glass. My version just offered the gasket on the glass top as was shown in the Amazon picture, which still worked once cleaned. Vevor seemed to be pretty accommodating with information once I contacted them. As with all things shipped to your door, all parts are usually there. Epoxy outgassing on wood? Works great. Slow cooking a roast? Maybe not!
I got the same kit from them about a year or so ago and had the same vacuum seal problem. I contacted them about it and there should be another seal that sits on top of the pot, apparently there was a batch sent out that did not include the seal due to a packing error. They very promptly sent me out the seal and I have not had any problem since.
Shay
@BBTurning I'm about to order the 5 gallon kit, tomorrow, can you give me your experience?..from Wyoming USA 🇺🇸 👋🤠
@billallen4793 once the second seal arrived it is an excellent piece of kit, if yours arrived without the second seal immediately get on to them and ask for it. It is a packing error and should be in it. The vacuum pump also works very well for a vacuum chuck.
Shay
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful especially since the instructions were some of the worst I have ever seen. I would have missed the circumcision and maybe the oil fill. I don't know if it makes a difference, but no instruction on which end of the hose went where. I installed the tube end on the pump. I used a tack cloth to wipe over the silicone seals to remove any debris and I had no problem with the seal. I reached -25 on the vacuum test, which held steady for 2 hours. I was surprised at how quiet the pump was.
I thought the bubbles would have "popped" leaving the top of your pour smooth. How did your small pours turn out?
Yes a few bubbles seem to remain on top of smaller pours as the epoxy hardens. Part of that is that I use faster cure hardeners. For wood, I do it in 2 steps now... First to pull air, then release the vacuum to let the wood suck up the thin epoxy. Then pour the final time with fewer bubble problems. Works good for me....
Do I really need to cut the tip of the plastic nob ? What’s the purpose?
can we use essential oil instead of pump oil. we want to use the setup for vapors production. can we?
I can't claim to be any expert on the manufacture of the pump or if other oils could still be used without voiding the warranty or porentially causing a catostrophic failure. I would only use what the maunfacturer recommends for pump oil and stay safe...
Vevor replied to my question about the type of oil to use. It is #46 pump oil and is available on the big A.
I had a really difficult time reading the instructions because of the tiny print and poor photo quality. Mine came with 5wo 3xtra washers and an additional orange seal. I'm n9t sure if I'm supposed to put it on the pot or not... It vacuums and when I turned off the pump, the seal didn't hold, and the air did get back into the pot. I'll fiddle with it and see how it goes. Thank you for this video, you cleared a couple of things up for me.
Hi back... I think the extra washers were there if you needed a tighter seal around the brass fitting, but I didn't need them. Also found that a clean rim and seal are required, and a little light grease in the gasket helps with a seal too.
@@TheFamilyWoodworker Thank you for the advice! I'm just learning how to use it today. I'm mechanically inclined and went ahead and put the other gasket/seal around the pot rim. Fun times ahead!
@melissarmt7330 can you explain this to me, and where do I get the extra seal/seals from? T.Y.I.A...from Wyoming USA 🇺🇸 👋 🤠
Hey guys ! Do I really need cut the plastic nob of? What’s the purpose of it? Thanks 🙏
Not sure if it helps equalize the pressure inside the gauge or something else... It was just a little instruction on the gauge sticker without any mention of the need to snip it off in the instruction book.... I did it, because I spotted the sticker. Maybe it's no big deal. If anyone else knows, please add a comment!
The rubber seal on top of the gauge is covering the factory filling hole for the silicone oil to be inserted into the gauge. The liquid inside dampens the whole gauge from any vibration in order to have a clean reading at any time given. That little tip which may be either cut off or left as-is is for transportation purpose to prevent that said fluid from leaking / spilling and making a gooey mess everywhere. In fact, it's a breather hole for the gauge to compensate against the constantly varying atmospheric pressure, to ensure an accurate reading at all times. I left mine on.
I have been working with pressure gauges for over two decades, and can tell that any dry gauge's needle rattle blurry like crazy when being exposed to ( in- ) direct vibrations are hard to read. Most measure liquid pressure, and boy, their pressure spikes they transferr immediately slam on the needle, you can see it zipping across the scale. What I mostly do is close the valve attached to it and slowly open it until the needle starts to move again to get a decent reading. By barely opening the valve, you make a make-shift orifice which greatly restricts any pressure spikes. But only do this on cross-fitted gauges, never close any crucial valve to stop the medium from flowing freely.
@@Bandicoot803 Best explanation yet on the purpose of the fluid inside the gauge and that little snip job that the manual doesn't elaborate on. Thanks for the follow up!
your response is highly appriciated.
Honestly, for the projects you're describing, you'd probably be better served by a pressure pot instead of the vacuum system. with the walnut pour that you did initially, putting it under pressure would essentially compress the bubbles to be undetectable. I use a pressure pot fairly regularly for making blanks for the things I turn. That being said, i have just purchased a vacuum system as well for removing bubbles from the epoxy, but i'll be putting the epoxy in the vacuum prior to pouring it over what I'm casting. just my .02.
I appreciate the feedback and your experience using both tools. Others have noted the same benefits of a pressure pot. Looks like I need to put another tool on my list....
I'd suggest getting a small tub of silicone grease. Lightly tap your finger in the grease and lightly glide your finger around the top rim of the chamber. Remove dust prior to applying the grease. I'll bet this cuts your vacuum issue down a bunch of not completely. Thanks for the detailed video. I recently bought vevor freon manifold gauges which I'm not crazy about.im used to my old gauges I used for 35 years. Was looking at recover units when I saw your video.
Read my mind... It was after I published the video, but I wound up using lithium grease lightly on the gasket and that helped with an immediate seal. That seemed to work consistently for me. Thanks for watching!
@@TheFamilyWoodworker I don't know why I just thought about this(possibly because I'm watching a movie called Fatal Instinct with Armand Assante) and Rosie Odonnell was screaming in the background but it would be funny to take a Barbie doll and place her in the canister with the epoxy resin and pull a good vacuum. If it all goes well she'll be forever preserved with the vacuumous look on her imploded head. Just a funny visual in my mind
can not even find that Orange 3.5 CFM pump , they just do the Blue 3 CFM with crap fittings
The blue version might be the newer model... I'm finding that with imports from China, the pumps and parts and accessories change depending on availability over there.
Well, most people degass the epoxy and then pour it. It's also good to use a container that holds 3-4 times the amount of epoxy that you wanna use.
Thanks for your video!
Thank you for reviewing
Thanks for watching!
You are missing a rubber gasket that goes around the Chamber to make a seal with the gasket on the lid. Common mistake on their end.
Surprised you never did a wood stabilization test with cactus juice
I had only learned about Cactus Juice a couple months ago; sort of expensive, but I might give it a go in a follow up video. I agree, a thin epoxy penetrating the wood grain is the best solution...
Lowest vacuum you can get?
Best I could get was -27 on the gauge, though not sure how accurate the gauge was. Thanks for watching our channel!
@@TheFamilyWoodworker Can you measure this with empty chamber? The pump is rated rather low 5 pa = 0.03 mm hg. This pump is advertised for hvac. Can you get room temp 20C water to boil in vacuum chamber? Your mentioned -27mm Hg is 3599 pa.
@@akierum Hey again. I think you're asking me HVAC questions I just can't answer and requesting additional work I can't deliver. Too busy working on a dining table for my daughter right now... Best...
@@TheFamilyWoodworker I just asked to test if water at 20c boils in vacuum chamber, you can get chart of water pressure boil temperature. This can help determine real vacuum your pump can make.
@@akierum I m ordering vevor pump soon, I can test for you. Not sure whenever to get their blue or orange model tho...