Just did this on my 2011 corolla.. virtually identical to the one in the video. awesome video,, this is the only one that shows the torx captive screw for the lock which may have taken me a while to figure out. Total time for replacement 1/2 hour on drivers door. Nicely done, GREAT video.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It was extremely helpful. I have a few tips to add that you may want to consider in the future. 1. Use a heat gun on the vapor barrier to soften the tape before removing. 2. Don't remove the entire vapor barrier. Those front wires don't need to be disconnected. 3. Use wax paper on the sticky tape while you're working, and duct tape the corner of vapor barrier up front to keep it out of the way. 4. No need to remove the grey clip. That rod can be reconnected to the new actuator during installation. 5. No need to remove the cylinder cover to remove/replace the cylinder. Also worth mentioning that's very soft aluminum so don't over-tighten during installation. Thanks again!
Fantastic instructions, I was able to change out my actuator in 45 minutes. I especially appreciated the tip about removing the lock cylinder, it made reinstallation so much easier.
Thank you so much for this instructive video. I used it to educate myself before replacing both the passenger and driver side lock actuators on my 2012 Toyota Corolla (door actuators look almost identical to this Camry). Without the video it would have taken longer and added some frustration. Actually, I may have messed up if not for the call-out about dealing with the lock cylinder on the driver side. Again, thanks, this video was well done.
GREAT job, it doesn't get any better than this. I now feel totally confident to do this job. Cheers. - UPdate: I just completed the job, the snap broke just like yours, and getting the piece out of the door opener hinge mechanism was tricky, just like your, thank you very much for showing every detail, that helped me a lot.
Thank you so much! The video was really helpful. Only issue was I had the window down when was was disassembling all the connections and when I got to the point where I had to take the rod out, I had to reinstall the connection for the window to roll up the window before proceeding. It was also difficult to get the rod out. I finally got it out but it also broke one tab to the gray clip housing. Hopefully that isn’t that big of a deal. Other than that, I can say that I am proud of myself. 😅 The video was very detailed and helpful. Thank you so much 1A Auto. ❤
Your videos are not only well shot, but completely appreciated by me. You pace perfectly and I'm able to do my own repairs on my camry. Thanks a whole bunch
Doing my daughter's Corolla driver side and could not figure out the keylock part. Although this video is for a Camry, I took a chance and it was identical. Fixed her up in no time afterwards. Thanks!
This is a great video (used on a Pontiac Vibe/Toyota Matrix) . The actuator sure went in easier in the video than it did for me though. And the funny, but not really funny, part is that once I got it all taken apart, the old actuator started to work. One of the wires in the connector had snapped over the years and was making an intermittent connection as I plugged it in.
Thanks so much for the video. It helped a great deal. I did find that you can push the center pin slightly in on the clip at 1:14. Then the clip comes out much easier. The only problem I had was that I couldn't release the control rod from the actuator (about 6:00) because of the ball end on the rod. I actually left the rod in, because it comes off. I swapped the control rods like you did at 8:38, but I did it with the control rod still attached to the door. Thanks again. UPDATE: My manual key didn't work anymore. I found out that I forgot to make sure that the other end of a rod connected to the key cylinder fit into the gray connection at the top of the actuator. This rod allows the key to manually unlock the door. I had to work with it a bit to get it to fit, but it finally did. Apparently I didn't listen very well when he said that "the actual key lock will go into here" at about 8:10. Now everything works.
This is a great video from start to finished. Wish there were more like it. I do have one suggestion. The part of the video that shows the tech releasing the grey retaining clip to the door lever actuator rod is not necessary. The other end has a straight section that fits into a hole in the actuator and is easily slide in and out during removal and installation. Since the grey plastic retaining clip can easily be broke I would suggest removing the other end.
I followed this video and replaced my actuator. One recommendation I have is to tape the handle rod to the actuator so it doesn't fall out while maneuvering the actuator into place.
What are the specific symptoms that the actuator needs replacement. My key fob unlocks the driver door only..also, the unlock switch on the driver door does not unlock the other door locks from inside...replace passenger side actuator? Thx.
In the items needed you mention the t25 torx driver but later in the video this one is not even mandatory, whereas the t30 (not mentioned in the items needed) is used to remove the actuator from the door. Is the one for the actuator a t25 also (and not the t30 as mentioned in the video)? Or is the t30 missing from the items needed? I ask because I intend to do this repair and I need to buy the torx driver.
Hi. Great video. I just replaced the actuator on driver side door. 30 minutes because of you made it so simple. But still not working. I have the same problem on the rear left door. The right side working perfect. What could it be? It's a relay? Fuse?
+Tiberio Photography Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. There could be multiple reasons why you're having this particular problem. We suggest taking your vehicle to a nearby reputable shop to identify the cause. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Hello. Is the actuator universal for the driver door and rear driver door? I bought it originally for the rear door but now my driver door isn’t working when using my car remote? I have to manually lock and unlock. Help please?
Just did this on a 09 Matrix. What I had to do on the reinstall was take the bar off and dry fit the unit in the door without the three bolts, then put the bar in afterwards. Also the splines on the lock cylinder did not match. If you notice two are fatter than the others, so I took a Dremel to them and then it went back together just fine.
This adapts fairly well to a 2008 sequoia as well. Much less wiring to remove or move in the sequoia, and there is no key cylinder on the passenger side, so it was a very easy fix. The only thing this video ought to mention is that the actuator has a tough time getting around the window channel. The amount of force needed to work it around the channel seemed like too much. Also, I couldn't remove the post from the door handle (6:18 in the video) so I just removed the post from the actuator. It was A LOT easier to slide the actuator onto the post rather than removing the post from the door.
Hi Is there one actuator for each of the front doors? Do i have to replace 2 actuators if both the "power" lock buttons on the 2 front doors do not unlock/lock all 4 doors when pressed?
+R Aikon Yes, each door will have its own actuator. It's possible that replacing the actuators will fix this problem, however, there could be something else causing this as well. 1aauto.com
Just installed new actuator on 2012 Camry SE front passenger. It was mostly the same as the video. No passenger side key lock on the 2012 SE so that was one less thing to worry about. Overall no complications, everything came back together nicely and glad to have that pesky door lock working with the remote again. I notice the door now has a very slight wobble when opening but I think this is because the point of contact with the new actuator and the body clip has moved a few millimeters. I suspect this will lessen or go away completely after normal use and break-in.
Will this work for the keyless lock version of the 09 Camry? My power lock system has stopped working and I just want the FOB to be able to lock and unlock the car again. The lock still works with the key but the power system is broken. Thanks!
+AlbieTom Yes the part shown in this video will fit your application. Here is a link to it if you need to make a purchase! www.1aauto.com/door-lock-actuator-and-integrated-latch/i/1adla00081?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&PIdI
For 1994 Camry, here's the sequence: 1) remove 2 panel screws on arm rest; 2) remove two screws under plastic caps near hinge end of panel; 3) remove center screw below the arm rest; 4) remove the two plastic pins on door latch end of panel; 5) remove side mirror plastic piece (pops off with a good grip from top of triangle); 6) remove door panel by lifting up (note that the metal stand offs toward the front of the panel will likely rip off of the fiber structure of the panel, and remain seated in the yellow button clips. This seems to be unavoidable, like a hidden land mine); 7) disconnect button connector (pops right off if you press the tab with a screw driver and push lightly); 8) peel back plastic water shroud; 9) remove center-horizontal metal piece by removing 10mm bolts from actuator, and 10mm bolt at center actuator track, and 10mm bolts at hinge-end below mirror; 10) remove 10mm bolt for outer window track (latch end); 11) remove 10mm bolts for door handle; 12) remove 10mm bolts for inner door handle/lock assembly, so it's easier to undo the white rod snaps at inner door handle/lock assembly; 13) undo the green rod snaps at the door lock assembly; 14) slowly remove the outer door handle and undo the yellow rod snaps; 15) using a 10mm socket, remove the inner/hidden bolt holding the yellow anti-theft guard in place; 16) gently work the yellow guard out; 17) remove the 3 screws holding the door lock in the door; 18) while pushing the outer window track outward from the spot where the bolt was removed in step 10, slowly work the lock assembly downward and to the front. Once it's past the outer window track, it will drop free. Hardest part of re-assembly is getting the lock rod re-inserted in the hole at the lock assembly. It's just a plan pan in the ass. I needed a mirror, and it still took me 20 full minutes. Everything else - other than figuring out by trial and error what the removal sequence should be - was straightforward. Once the sequence was right, the lock assembly literally fell out of the door. Amazon sells the green, yellow, and white rod snaps, if any of yours break.
I changed the actuator and the doors still do not lock. The actuator has power but it locks and instantly unlocks. All the passenger doors do nothing. Not sure what else it can be.
How much does the aculator cost? How much would it cost to take it to get it fix at a shop? 😤😩my passenger one is giving out. Could it the wires underneath passenger door seat be affecting it. Because it sometimes work and sometimes it doesn’t???
+Issy Issy Depending on your model we may or may not have the RH actuator for your vehicle. Here is a link to the LH side if you need it: www.1aauto.com/door-lock-actuator-and-integrated-latch/i/1adla00081?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&PIdI
+Steve F This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1AAuto.com
Your videos are really good but the music is such a distraction.. if i turn the volume down i can't hear the instruction if i turn it up, the music is a distraction I can't focus on what i need to focus on
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√ *Watch the Video*
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My 15 year old son and I did this thanks to your video. Huge high fives at the end!
Clear, easy to follow instructions as well as great camerawork and editing. I wish I could give more likes to this video!
Just did this on my 2011 corolla.. virtually identical to the one in the video. awesome video,, this is the only one that shows the torx captive screw for the lock which may have taken me a while to figure out. Total time for replacement 1/2 hour on drivers door.
Nicely done, GREAT video.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It was extremely helpful. I have a few tips to add that you may want to consider in the future.
1. Use a heat gun on the vapor barrier to soften the tape before removing.
2. Don't remove the entire vapor barrier. Those front wires don't need to be disconnected.
3. Use wax paper on the sticky tape while you're working, and duct tape the corner of vapor barrier up front to keep it out of the way.
4. No need to remove the grey clip. That rod can be reconnected to the new actuator during installation.
5. No need to remove the cylinder cover to remove/replace the cylinder. Also worth mentioning that's very soft aluminum so don't over-tighten during installation.
Thanks again!
+Robbie Hargett Thanks for the feedback!
Fantastic instructions, I was able to change out my actuator in 45 minutes. I especially appreciated the tip about removing the lock cylinder, it made reinstallation so much easier.
Thank you so much for this instructive video. I used it to educate myself before replacing both the passenger and driver side lock actuators on my 2012 Toyota Corolla (door actuators look almost identical to this Camry). Without the video it would have taken longer and added some frustration. Actually, I may have messed up if not for the call-out about dealing with the lock cylinder on the driver side. Again, thanks, this video was well done.
GREAT job, it doesn't get any better than this. I now feel totally confident to do this job. Cheers.
- UPdate: I just completed the job, the snap broke just like yours, and getting the piece out of the door opener hinge mechanism was tricky, just like your, thank you very much for showing every detail, that helped me a lot.
Thank you so much! The video was really helpful. Only issue was I had the window down when was was disassembling all the connections and when I got to the point where I had to take the rod out, I had to reinstall the connection for the window to roll up the window before proceeding. It was also difficult to get the rod out. I finally got it out but it also broke one tab to the gray clip housing. Hopefully that isn’t that big of a deal. Other than that, I can say that I am proud of myself. 😅 The video was very detailed and helpful. Thank you so much 1A Auto. ❤
thanks
Good job by both installer and camera guy. Well placed shots and angles.
+DJ R@DEON Thanks for the feedback!
Incredibly helpful, thanks so much for posting.
Thanks for your instructions. It was really helpful 👍
Your videos are not only well shot, but completely appreciated by me. You pace perfectly and I'm able to do my own repairs on my camry. Thanks a whole bunch
+Kingston Rock Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Doing my daughter's Corolla driver side and could not figure out the keylock part. Although this video is for a Camry, I took a chance and it was identical. Fixed her up in no time afterwards. Thanks!
+1518joefil1 Thank you!
Thank you ver much for this video!
You just saved me a ton of money!
This is a great video (used on a Pontiac Vibe/Toyota Matrix) . The actuator sure went in easier in the video than it did for me though. And the funny, but not really funny, part is that once I got it all taken apart, the old actuator started to work. One of the wires in the connector had snapped over the years and was making an intermittent connection as I plugged it in.
+mick m Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Thanks so much for the video. It helped a great deal. I did find that you can push the center pin slightly in on the clip at 1:14. Then the clip comes out much easier. The only problem I had was that I couldn't release the control rod from the actuator (about 6:00) because of the ball end on the rod. I actually left the rod in, because it comes off. I swapped the control rods like you did at 8:38, but I did it with the control rod still attached to the door. Thanks again.
UPDATE: My manual key didn't work anymore. I found out that I forgot to make sure that the other end of a rod connected to the key cylinder fit into the gray connection at the top of the actuator. This rod allows the key to manually unlock the door. I had to work with it a bit to get it to fit, but it finally did. Apparently I didn't listen very well when he said that "the actual key lock will go into here" at about 8:10. Now everything works.
+Bret Thomas Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
Excellent video - clearly described and good video quality. thx
Swearing is optional 🤪
Superb "How To" video👍
Very helpful. Especially the part where you removed the actual door lock to be able to properly align the mechanism to the actuator. Thank you
This is a great video from start to finished. Wish there were more like it. I do have one suggestion. The part of the video that shows the tech releasing the grey retaining clip to the door lever actuator rod is not necessary. The other end has a straight section that fits into a hole in the actuator and is easily slide in and out during removal and installation. Since the grey plastic retaining clip can easily be broke I would suggest removing the other end.
+Mike Sheehan Thanks for the feedback!
Great video. Make sure you do have all the tools he uses or else you might get stuck and burn a lot of time.
+Misa Ramirez Thank you for your feedback!
I followed this video and replaced my actuator. One recommendation I have is to tape the handle rod to the actuator so it doesn't fall out while maneuvering the actuator into place.
Hey did you guys make a video on how to replace the rear door lock actuator?
What are the specific symptoms that the actuator needs replacement. My key fob unlocks the driver door only..also, the unlock switch on the driver door does not unlock the other door locks from inside...replace passenger side actuator? Thx.
In the items needed you mention the t25 torx driver but later in the video this one is not even mandatory, whereas the t30 (not mentioned in the items needed) is used to remove the actuator from the door. Is the one for the actuator a t25 also (and not the t30 as mentioned in the video)? Or is the t30 missing from the items needed?
I ask because I intend to do this repair and I need to buy the torx driver.
Should you disconnect the battery first? Trying this next week and want to make sure I'm safe.
outstanding video. When I get the money I'll be ordering from you guys
Thank you for the feedback! +Kevin Faucheux
Hi. Great video. I just replaced the actuator on driver side door. 30 minutes because of you made it so simple. But still not working. I have the same problem on the rear left door. The right side working perfect. What could it be? It's a relay? Fuse?
+Tiberio Photography Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. There could be multiple reasons why you're having this particular problem. We suggest taking your vehicle to a nearby reputable shop to identify the cause. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Very helpful!
Hello. Is the actuator universal for the driver door and rear driver door? I bought it originally for the rear door but now my driver door isn’t working when using my car remote? I have to manually lock and unlock. Help please?
Just did this on a 09 Matrix. What I had to do on the reinstall was take the bar off and dry fit the unit in the door without the three bolts, then put the bar in afterwards. Also the splines on the lock cylinder did not match. If you notice two are fatter than the others, so I took a Dremel to them and then it went back together just fine.
This adapts fairly well to a 2008 sequoia as well. Much less wiring to remove or move in the sequoia, and there is no key cylinder on the passenger side, so it was a very easy fix. The only thing this video ought to mention is that the actuator has a tough time getting around the window channel. The amount of force needed to work it around the channel seemed like too much.
Also, I couldn't remove the post from the door handle (6:18 in the video) so I just removed the post from the actuator. It was A LOT easier to slide the actuator onto the post rather than removing the post from the door.
Hi is there a step by step guide or video to adding power locks to a 2010 corolla?
Hi Is there one actuator for each of the front doors? Do i have to replace 2 actuators if both the "power" lock buttons on the 2 front doors do not unlock/lock all 4 doors when pressed?
+R Aikon Yes, each door will have its own actuator. It's possible that replacing the actuators will fix this problem, however, there could be something else causing this as well. 1aauto.com
Did you put the actuator in front or behind the window rail to get it back in ?
+RobertMOdell It goes behind it! 1aauto.com
Just installed new actuator on 2012 Camry SE front passenger. It was mostly the same as the video. No passenger side key lock on the 2012 SE so that was one less thing to worry about. Overall no complications, everything came back together nicely and glad to have that pesky door lock working with the remote again.
I notice the door now has a very slight wobble when opening but I think this is because the point of contact with the new actuator and the body clip has moved a few millimeters. I suspect this will lessen or go away completely after normal use and break-in.
Will this work for the keyless lock version of the 09 Camry? My power lock system has stopped working and I just want the FOB to be able to lock and unlock the car again. The lock still works with the key but the power system is broken.
Thanks!
+AlbieTom Yes the part shown in this video will fit your application. Here is a link to it if you need to make a purchase! www.1aauto.com/door-lock-actuator-and-integrated-latch/i/1adla00081?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&PIdI
AlbieTom how much will dealer charge to do this?
Does anyone know where I can get the grey plastic clip which is at 6:54 seconds into the video I broke mine
Is there a 1997 version of this video?
For 1994 Camry, here's the sequence: 1) remove 2 panel screws on arm rest; 2) remove two screws under plastic caps near hinge end of panel; 3) remove center screw below the arm rest; 4) remove the two plastic pins on door latch end of panel; 5) remove side mirror plastic piece (pops off with a good grip from top of triangle); 6) remove door panel by lifting up (note that the metal stand offs toward the front of the panel will likely rip off of the fiber structure of the panel, and remain seated in the yellow button clips. This seems to be unavoidable, like a hidden land mine); 7) disconnect button connector (pops right off if you press the tab with a screw driver and push lightly); 8) peel back plastic water shroud; 9) remove center-horizontal metal piece by removing 10mm bolts from actuator, and 10mm bolt at center actuator track, and 10mm bolts at hinge-end below mirror; 10) remove 10mm bolt for outer window track (latch end); 11) remove 10mm bolts for door handle; 12) remove 10mm bolts for inner door handle/lock assembly, so it's easier to undo the white rod snaps at inner door handle/lock assembly; 13) undo the green rod snaps at the door lock assembly; 14) slowly remove the outer door handle and undo the yellow rod snaps; 15) using a 10mm socket, remove the inner/hidden bolt holding the yellow anti-theft guard in place; 16) gently work the yellow guard out; 17) remove the 3 screws holding the door lock in the door; 18) while pushing the outer window track outward from the spot where the bolt was removed in step 10, slowly work the lock assembly downward and to the front. Once it's past the outer window track, it will drop free.
Hardest part of re-assembly is getting the lock rod re-inserted in the hole at the lock assembly. It's just a plan pan in the ass. I needed a mirror, and it still took me 20 full minutes. Everything else - other than figuring out by trial and error what the removal sequence should be - was straightforward. Once the sequence was right, the lock assembly literally fell out of the door.
Amazon sells the green, yellow, and white rod snaps, if any of yours break.
I changed the actuator and the doors still do not lock. The actuator has power but it locks and instantly unlocks. All the passenger doors do nothing. Not sure what else it can be.
How much does the aculator cost? How much would it cost to take it to get it fix at a shop? 😤😩my passenger one is giving out. Could it the wires underneath passenger door seat be affecting it. Because it sometimes work and sometimes it doesn’t???
+Issy Issy Depending on your model we may or may not have the RH actuator for your vehicle. Here is a link to the LH side if you need it: www.1aauto.com/door-lock-actuator-and-integrated-latch/i/1adla00081?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&PIdI
Is it the same for a 2014 Camry?
+Steve F This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1AAuto.com
It is pretty much exactly the same. I changed my 2012 actuator using this video.
2006 is the camry generation prior to the model shown on the video. I know because my 2006 camry is not like this car. Thanks
Your videos are really good but the music is such a distraction.. if i turn the volume down i can't hear the instruction if i turn it up, the music is a distraction I can't focus on what i need to focus on
+kpballa1009 Thanks for the feedback! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
That'll be $446.90 plus tax, please and thank you.
charlietow you can do it yourself and save about $400 bucks!
charlietow thats really how much it costs?? From dealer?
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