The hex drives immediately stripped out on my old end links on top of the rust and I had to resort to cutting them off with an angle grinder. My new 1A Auto end links luckily had an actual hex nut on the back you could put a second wrench onto for installation and removal. And they were much thicker and more robust than my old stock end links as well. Very satisfied with them.
The Haynes repair guide I have for Toyota Camry says torque for upper sway/stabilizer bar link nut is 52 Ft-lbs (model years 2007 to 2011). But lower is 55 like you said. Great video...I'm about to go do this on my '07 Camry right now...thank you!
Finished it the same day. My barber suggested using "PB B'laster" as rust penetrant instead of WD-40...it worked good enough that I could use hex driver and wrench to get the old rusty ones off. New front sway bar links fixed the annoying rattling I had when driving. Thanks again for this video!
great job!video!...so the original camry links have the hex nut, correct, i am anticpating a nitemare removal if so......ALso...do all the after market new links sold have the actual hex nut on the back?? thanks...
2006 Solara 3.3 SLE... so I just did mine including end links and struts... i was freaked out at some of the vids but let me say it was NO WHERE as difficult as people have posted. I did mine from underneath but ONE side at a time (why? I live on 3 acres and if ANYTHING happened such as a jack stand/jack failure its RIP me)- from underneath i had full access to the mid section bushings... yes space is tight but i did it with a 1/4 drive for the easy access bolt and a 12mm combo wrench from underneath.... at one point the only thing connected was the UNJACKED end link. As I was also doing the struts when I was done with the jacked side completely including installed mid section bushing I went to the other side- passenger side.. the bolt closest to the front is a little easier to access from underneath when tightening with a 1/4" drive. IF I had someone at the house for sure jacking BOTH sides would have been easier but not by a lot as from underneath you can really do almost ALL. I hope this helps. IF I ever have to do this again its a 45 min repair. i hope this helps... i got a few short vids but it really wasnt so difficult to warrant any pics or vids
+Willie Wilson Thank you for your order. If you would like to leave us a review on Google it would be greatly appreciated. Here is a link to our reviews section. Have a great day! goo.gl/i5JFNY
Starting out with a rust penetrant and a burb gun usually cracks it loose. Failing that, braise it with a torch. If it's taking longer than 10 min's to remove, it's not being done right.
Argh, I wished I found this video last week and order the sway bar links from A1 AUTO as I like the way they have the fixed nut in the back for you to use a wrench on it to tighten and loosen it. I hate that hex stud that always stripped :(. Oh, well... next car I will get them from 1A AUTO.
I didn't see any crossfades here on the video, , so that would lead me to believe that no time was spent letting the rust penetrant actually penetrate, which tanks generally a minimum of 20 minutes Overnight is best Acetone and power steering fluid fluid as a mix is probably the best rust penetrant I've seen used. If you can work on a drive bolt or a brake bleed banana boat, it should definitely work for this application in my opinion
Is it possible to just use a nut breaker tool on the sway bar nut and then use a pin punch to hit the spindle out of the hole? Question because I’m doing this job in 2 days
+Joseph Garcia Thanks for watching! You can add some Loc-tite if you wish, but it can make removal even more difficult when it comes time to replace them. If they come pregreased with no hole for a grease fitting, then you do not have to grease them ever! If they do have a hole then they will have to be greased periodically.
Hi,I have a 2011 venza, I try to replace the link, the top side of the link that attached to the strut is easy to remove. but the lower side that connected to the sway bar is a pain, it seems that the link is screwed in the sway bar,
I just did this repair and can attest to just how annoying it is.. even worse I don't have a hoist there's literally no room for a reciprocating saw when you're on your back underneath the vehicle with concrete dust everywhere lol half the time the bolt will strip the teeth off your saw if it's an OEM part anyway. Lol
My 2014 Camry is pulling aggressively to the right over 90kmh. I have been told my sway bars need changing after I had it serviced. The alignment and the tyres are good. But could the sway bar be a problem?
@@1AAuto thanks for that.. I had order a set for the rears and receive a shorter one ..about an inch different from oem ...would it be ok to install them ?
I don't exactly know if you are trying to make this look intentionally difficult to drum up more business; however, you'll never strip a nut if you use a socket wrench in conjunction with a breaker bar. I just did this job on my 2013 Toyota Camry. It took as much time if not more to jack the car up and take off the tires than to replace the sway bars. If you strip the nuts on this job, I cannot imagine what you do when you do a brake job and replace the rotors...
+Aham We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Car parts manufacturers label parts according to the companies they make for., so you will find some parts are similar to OEM. and these parts cost less than at dealership. Nippon Denso is one such. So there is every good reason to buy from this company. I have .
Why not just tap the allen key in lighty with the rust in the hole and try to get it "stuck" instead of cleaning it all out and then adding......oil.....to not make it slip?....not the best mechanic over at 1a I'm afraid...and why not just cut a slit in the in the end of the sway bar stud and use a large flat head to keep it from spinning instead of going apeshit with a sawzall next to the strut....ehhh
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
The hex drives immediately stripped out on my old end links on top of the rust and I had to resort to cutting them off with an angle grinder. My new 1A Auto end links luckily had an actual hex nut on the back you could put a second wrench onto for installation and removal. And they were much thicker and more robust than my old stock end links as well. Very satisfied with them.
+midnitebo Thank you!
@@1AAuto how can I make order parts for camery 2005?
+Rakan Rakan Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
The Haynes repair guide I have for Toyota Camry says torque for upper sway/stabilizer bar link nut is 52 Ft-lbs (model years 2007 to 2011).
But lower is 55 like you said. Great video...I'm about to go do this on my '07 Camry right now...thank you!
Finished it the same day. My barber suggested using "PB B'laster" as rust penetrant instead of WD-40...it worked good enough
that I could use hex driver and wrench to get the old rusty ones off. New front sway bar links fixed the annoying rattling I had when driving.
Thanks again for this video!
55 foot pound for the stabilizer link and 76 foot pound for the tire. Thank you for the torque specs. Great video.
+Joseph Garcia Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
torque specs should be listed along with the required tools, it would save so much time.
Thanks for all the information. You have convinced me not to do this job myself and take my Camry to a mechanic.
Great Video. It's because of this video I bought the struts and sway bar links. I will attempt to do this job on my 2010 Toyota Camry.
+BOSS Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Using a vise grip to counter turn it worked for me. The older sway bars do not have the hex counter turn design but good to know the new ones do.
+TigerKitty 2 Thanks for checking us out!
great job!video!...so the original camry links have the hex nut, correct, i am anticpating a nitemare removal if so......ALso...do all the after market new links sold have the actual hex nut on the back?? thanks...
2006 Solara 3.3 SLE... so I just did mine including end links and struts... i was freaked out at some of the vids but let me say it was NO WHERE as difficult as people have posted. I did mine from underneath but ONE side at a time (why? I live on 3 acres and if ANYTHING happened such as a jack stand/jack failure its RIP me)- from underneath i had full access to the mid section bushings... yes space is tight but i did it with a 1/4 drive for the easy access bolt and a 12mm combo wrench from underneath.... at one point the only thing connected was the UNJACKED end link. As I was also doing the struts when I was done with the jacked side completely including installed mid section bushing I went to the other side- passenger side.. the bolt closest to the front is a little easier to access from underneath when tightening with a 1/4" drive. IF I had someone at the house for sure jacking BOTH sides would have been easier but not by a lot as from underneath you can really do almost ALL. I hope this helps. IF I ever have to do this again its a 45 min repair. i hope this helps... i got a few short vids but it really wasnt so difficult to warrant any pics or vids
Thanks for letting me know I need to watch another video
Excellent videos by these guys. Even got the torque values correct!
+geecrawdad Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
A+ with attention to small details that would catch up many novice people. And I do shop with your company
+Willie Wilson Thank you for your order. If you would like to leave us a review on Google it would be greatly appreciated. Here is a link to our reviews section. Have a great day! goo.gl/i5JFNY
The hex stud is the dummest thing that they havent changed much in n 50 years
I know how to get it off, but I'm gonna waste a bunch of time trying other ways like this guy did... great tutorial 🤣👍
Thanks for the video, now I probably know why my screw can't be removed.
Starting out with a rust penetrant and a burb gun usually cracks it loose. Failing that, braise it with a torch. If it's taking longer than 10 min's to remove, it's not being done right.
Drill it out. Took me 2 minutes
Please explain this to me. The drilling. Thank You@@ExtraJohnson
My favorite way to remove is a Carbide drill right into the center of the bolt's hex hole to remove the head. You really need a carbide.
Argh, I wished I found this video last week and order the sway bar links from A1 AUTO as I like the way they have the fixed nut in the back for you to use a wrench on it to tighten and loosen it. I hate that hex stud that always stripped :(. Oh, well... next car I will get them from 1A AUTO.
+Paul Cheang Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Great Work 😎
I didn't see any crossfades here on the video, , so that would lead me to believe that no time was spent letting the rust penetrant actually penetrate, which tanks generally a minimum of 20 minutes
Overnight is best
Acetone and power steering fluid fluid as a mix is probably the best rust penetrant I've seen used.
If you can work on a drive bolt or a brake bleed banana boat, it should definitely work for this application in my opinion
+Dan Lo Fat Thanks for the tip!
I hope the 15 dislikes are from people who knows about cars.
V Good video. Thanks
Thank-you on you’re Advice !
That video was about how to remove a ball joint nut.
Is it possible to just use a nut breaker tool on the sway bar nut and then use a pin punch to hit the spindle out of the hole? Question because I’m doing this job in 2 days
Is it safe to use an impact wrench on that sway bar link nut?
No
Do it by hand.
Should loc-tite be placed on the bolt for the stabilizer link? How about a new stabilizer link with a grease fitting?
+Joseph Garcia Thanks for watching! You can add some Loc-tite if you wish, but it can make removal even more difficult when it comes time to replace them. If they come pregreased with no hole for a grease fitting, then you do not have to grease them ever! If they do have a hole then they will have to be greased periodically.
Thanks for the tip with the vice grips on the back, but have you tried using the vice grips with a hammer drill?
"It's going in a little deeper" that's what she said LOLOLOL!!!!! HAHAHA
What is the torque spec for the 17mm bolt on this 2009 camry?
Hi,I have a 2011 venza, I try to replace the link, the top side of the link that attached to the strut is easy to remove. but the lower side that connected to the sway bar is a pain, it seems that the link is screwed in the sway bar,
I just did this repair and can attest to just how annoying it is.. even worse I don't have a hoist there's literally no room for a reciprocating saw when you're on your back underneath the vehicle with concrete dust everywhere lol half the time the bolt will strip the teeth off your saw if it's an OEM part anyway. Lol
+Carl N Thanks for the feedback!
If you're installing new ones, just drill the old ones out. The hex holl is already there so...
Can you please explain this way to me in more detail. But size etc. Thank You
My 2014 Camry is pulling aggressively to the right over 90kmh. I have been told my sway bars need changing after I had it serviced. The alignment and the tyres are good. But could the sway bar be a problem?
+k12rmy It could be the sway bar links. You should take the advice of a professional. Thanks for watching.
@@1AAuto thanks for taking the time to reply.
+k12rmy Thank you!
Save time. Angle grinder. Zip zip. Done
+Larry Blatterman Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
@@1AAuto Thanks for the video. Very helpful!
Is the front shorter than the rears or are they the same in length ?
+virachai336 The rears look like they are a little bit longer than the fronts. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
@@1AAuto thanks for that.. I had order a set for the rears and receive a shorter one ..about an inch different from oem ...would it be ok to install them ?
I don't exactly know if you are trying to make this look intentionally difficult to drum up more business; however, you'll never strip a nut if you use a socket wrench in conjunction with a breaker bar. I just did this job on my 2013 Toyota Camry. It took as much time if not more to jack the car up and take off the tires than to replace the sway bars.
If you strip the nuts on this job, I cannot imagine what you do when you do a brake job and replace the rotors...
Sway links are the most annoying part of changing out struts to me
Have a link to everything in the video other than the part.
Failed to mention to wear eye protection when using sawzall.
What would the car do if that is damaged? Clunky sounds? My car make some clunky sounds when hitting bumps
+Aham We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
How would you know these need to be replaced? My front end clunks and rattles sometimes.
+Henry Chuong Clunks and rattles are a sign. As well as poor handling, a loose steering, and bounciness when driving the car.
What is the use of Sway Bar Links? what happens if I don't change it.
Has anyone bought parts from them ? My Camry needs links and bushings, I'm not sure if their part is quality or not
Car parts manufacturers label parts according to the companies they make for., so you will find some parts are similar to OEM. and these parts cost less than at dealership. Nippon Denso is one such. So there is every good reason to buy from this company. I have .
They and Rock Auto are good
Why don't you use an impact wrench
+williewest 2370 Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
He put me to sleep!!
Good Gawd...what a nightmare.
Why not just tap the allen key in lighty with the rust in the hole and try to get it "stuck" instead of cleaning it all out and then adding......oil.....to not make it slip?....not the best mechanic over at 1a I'm afraid...and why not just cut a slit in the in the end of the sway bar stud and use a large flat head to keep it from spinning instead of going apeshit with a sawzall next to the strut....ehhh
Omg dude I could of had it off in 30 sec
You should tell people to use anti-seize when installing new links.
+fw1421 Thanks for the tip!
Where do you suggest anti seize should go?
Wouldn’t using anti-seize on nuts and bolts mess up the torque specs?