Rad vid dude. Quick tip for you... wax your cutting disc when cutting aluminium and it cuts through like butter, doesn't grab or bite and the disc will last forever. Just Use a crappy old candle. It's a game changer
Don’t know how you don’t have more subs man been watching your videos throughout my whole process of boosting my e36 and it has been so helpful keep it up bro 🙏🙏
I think you have addressed it in some of the comments that it's safe the way you have done it. However, i would still stress that from a physics standpoint, it's safER to machine a bit off the back side of the face to create a 'step' all around the face for the barrel to sit on to relieve pressure/force on the bolts alone. Yes you have abused them for years and they held up but it's still safER to do that. Otherwise, great video!
I completely agree! As soon as my machinist can cut the back side he will. Until then we cut the front and mount them both there for front wheels, and sandwich rears!
correct me if i am wrong but without machining a register on the face, all the load is applied to the 40 bolts that are sandwiching the face together. Although they have held up fine for you on track it seems like the difference between holding up fine and catastrophic failure can be subjective and dependent on road and weather conditions. I wouldn't run these without machining the face or encourage anyone else too. Be careful out there folks
Hey how do you like the kenda kr20 200tw tires ? I’ve got them but in the 300tw model 235/40/17 and I can’t say enough good things about them for the cost at the time of buying last year the were $96 a tire at Walmart. And have been lasting a long time. But I’m going to need new ones again wondering how much shorter life the 200 would be ? Wow thanks for the tips ! I’ve always wanted to do style 5s like this but never knew about saving the inner barrels I thought guys were buying inners and outters but this way it’s more cost effective 😊
@@Drift.Things thanks. There are a couple questions i do have. I know here you built with both barrels for the 18s but (1) if i were to use the factory barrels, what size lip would i need for a 9 in wheel? (2) since the face went in between the barrel and the lip, does that add an extra 1/2 inch?
Cutting this way leaves a perfectly flat surface while giving as much sealing material as possible! You could cut it that way but have a chance of leave a ridge. If I’m picturing what you’re saying correctly!
@@Drift.Things okay great. I actually came across style 19s not too long ago and thought these wheels are gorgeous but i would love to have them in 17x9.5 for good grip. So coming across this video made me plan to actually get them and try this out. Maybe even powder coat them before i put them back together
Trow please that silicone out of your garage. It will oxidate steel and alloy over time. And when you have to paint something, you get problems with that also. Just a good ment warning. 😉👍👋
Hit up toshi at alpha project imports. he has rentals in Osaka area! 180 is off the boat and in my shop here in atl prepping for a rebuild / refresh series
Lol this is right up your alley! I don’t street drive on them so let me know how it goes haha, but I’ve abused them for years on track. I did front wheels with a deep cut on the front and both lip and barrel mounted there for less width and more offset
@@Drift.Thingsthat’s so sick. what was the size of the outer lips you ordered? was it 4 or 5 inch lip? and did it come with the hardware when you ordered or did you have to buy seaprately? sorry don’t mean to be that guy just figured i’d ask haha
My outer is a 4 inch lip and I still run a 20mm with the 75mm bdc rear. I could have done a 5 inch lol but 11.5 seems absurd. And no I got hardware from vr as well
Don’t drive on these . You’re about to have a lot of broken bolts, unbalanceable wheels and in danger of completely failing. You need to mill the faces not so “nice and clean , and flat “ but so there is a register on the back side of the lip for it to sit (hub) central and not have all the load on your hardware.. that or the front side need milling down some more and the reverse mount them rather than sandwich. Your aiming to have the face physically slot in to the barrel just as the lip does that you bought . Not just align the bolt holes like you have and expect that driving load won’t shift that all over the place . Honestly a good thing this was one day ago as you were about the to write your car off and god knows what else .
17’s been on for almost 3 years. 18’s for a season. I jump the car on these wheels often or slam rumble strips or hit other cars. They are strong as shit. I milled and built fronts that way for a video later on though. Both are safe have a good day
@@Drift.Things and like to see that. And then the same wheel again after one drive . I’d bet it will be out again . I’m not coming down on you , but 100% that’s just wrong info you have put out. You are expected the entire weight of the vehicle and added road forces to simply sit on some m7 bolts from china .. simple fact the face needs registration not just mating surfaces. I’ve done this for 20years and seen this same stuff a million times never with good results. Simply skimming 3mm from the back the required bore to fit the barrel and your golden , until then …well…:
Ok I’m just saying this works just fine if you’re doing it at home. We’ve abused them for years. If you can find a way to mount a style 19 reversed in a lathe please let me know otherwise we sandwich or cut the front and mount them both there. I’ve even said in the video I would lathe them if built for a customer. But either way works and is safe, as I’ve proven over years of abuse drifting. I mean tons of abuse man.
@@elliottcheyne-sublimecoatingsI bent my frame below my ass on his rear one and didn't break it. I've also had a set on my dcar for over a year no issues. I think they are stronger than oem.
When converting 2 piece to 3 piece, the back of the face needs to be machined in order for the rear barrel to seat properly so your bolts don’t snap over time. People please do not following this instructional video it’s completely wrong and dangerous.
Front has ridge and we cut it deeper for front wheels and mont both there. We also do that if building for someone else. But this setup has held fine for years under tons of abuse! Thanks for watching!
Rad vid dude. Quick tip for you... wax your cutting disc when cutting aluminium and it cuts through like butter, doesn't grab or bite and the disc will last forever. Just Use a crappy old candle. It's a game changer
What a phenomenal idea, thanks homie!!
Bro! Game changer with this advice! Thank you. Always have hated cutting aluminum never heard this !
Don’t know how you don’t have more subs man been watching your videos throughout my whole process of boosting my e36 and it has been so helpful keep it up bro 🙏🙏
You’re a king thanks!! Send it to your friends lol. I only started in February
Style 19s are one of the greatest wheels from that era of BMW.
I think you have addressed it in some of the comments that it's safe the way you have done it. However, i would still stress that from a physics standpoint, it's safER to machine a bit off the back side of the face to create a 'step' all around the face for the barrel to sit on to relieve pressure/force on the bolts alone. Yes you have abused them for years and they held up but it's still safER to do that. Otherwise, great video!
I completely agree! As soon as my machinist can cut the back side he will. Until then we cut the front and mount them both there for front wheels, and sandwich rears!
correct me if i am wrong but without machining a register on the face, all the load is applied to the 40 bolts that are sandwiching the face together. Although they have held up fine for you on track it seems like the difference between holding up fine and catastrophic failure can be subjective and dependent on road and weather conditions. I wouldn't run these without machining the face or encourage anyone else too. Be careful out there folks
It’s been discussed! It’s strong and safe for racing but there is always safer options. Front has a retaining lip, the face isn’t fully floating
good vibes fr
Just got two full set of style 19 can’t wait to do this was already looking at spacers but this is way better
They are getting hard to find!
Mix and matching style 5's is a fan favourite but it can take a while to collect enough pieces for a set
These look sick
Thanks!
Always killer content dude! Im curious if this is possible with style 42 ? The face mounts on outside of wheel but should be same deal no ?
I know it’s possible but I can’t find any lips for it yet! Let me know!
Absolute fireeeeeeee yeeeeeeeeahboy!!!!
This is cool asf. Thank you 🙏!!
Hey how do you like the kenda kr20 200tw tires ? I’ve got them but in the 300tw model 235/40/17 and I can’t say enough good things about them for the cost at the time of buying last year the were $96 a tire at Walmart. And have been lasting a long time. But I’m going to need new ones again wondering how much shorter life the 200 would be ?
Wow thanks for the tips ! I’ve always wanted to do style 5s like this but never knew about saving the inner barrels I thought guys were buying inners and outters but this way it’s more cost effective 😊
I can’t tell much of a difference between them! The 300 lasts a little longer I know but I run both at like 20 psi.
Wait…e39 style 5’s use the same lip??
Subscribed…good info for my e30 build
Thanks for the sub! And yes style 5 works!
Have you done this with style 71’s
Do you think its a good idea to rear mount these?
Has worked great for years! Do at your own risk of course
@@Drift.Things thanks. There are a couple questions i do have. I know here you built with both barrels for the 18s but (1) if i were to use the factory barrels, what size lip would i need for a 9 in wheel? (2) since the face went in between the barrel and the lip, does that add an extra 1/2 inch?
I would have a machine cut the the face a few mil then use a 3 inch barrel stacked on a cut factory 6! The sandwich mount makes it .25-.5 larger
I might’ve missed it but how come you didn’t cut it the other way? Like the blade parallel with the rim
Cutting this way leaves a perfectly flat surface while giving as much sealing material as possible! You could cut it that way but have a chance of leave a ridge. If I’m picturing what you’re saying correctly!
Building my e46 for 500whp. Will this custom wheel hold up fine?
I have 600 whp on high boost! Thats why I built the 18’s to fit 265-285
@@Drift.Things okay great. I actually came across style 19s not too long ago and thought these wheels are gorgeous but i would love to have them in 17x9.5 for good grip. So coming across this video made me plan to actually get them and try this out. Maybe even powder coat them before i put them back together
What was the grand total (not including the faces) ?
17’s is only 200 for lip, 40 for hardware, 40 to skim faces! Add 200 for 18’s
Trow please that silicone out of your garage. It will oxidate steel and alloy over time. And when you have to paint something, you get problems with that also.
Just a good ment warning. 😉👍👋
Which silicone should I use?? Thanks !
Where you getting them barrels from.
Yeah this is exactly what im wondering
Posted link in description for ya!
@@Drift.Things essentially made a reverse mount lip. Noice.
Cheers for the share.
@@Drift.Things can I hire your 180sx drift car in Japan. Need 1 to drift down Osaka way. 🤪😂😂. Test it out @ Meihan.
Looks like she goes pretty gud.
Hit up toshi at alpha project imports. he has rentals in Osaka area! 180 is off the boat and in my shop here in atl prepping for a rebuild / refresh series
Yo could this work with 42’s?
I’ve seen people do it! But not with vr lips. I’m unsure of the brand
oh ma frick i need to do this. so tired of being a fake wide boy
Lol this is right up your alley! I don’t street drive on them so let me know how it goes haha, but I’ve abused them for years on track.
I did front wheels with a deep cut on the front and both lip and barrel mounted there for less width and more offset
@@Drift.Thingsthat’s so sick. what was the size of the outer lips you ordered? was it 4 or 5 inch lip? and did it come with the hardware when you ordered or did you have to buy seaprately? sorry don’t mean to be that guy just figured i’d ask haha
My outer is a 4 inch lip and I still run a 20mm with the 75mm bdc rear. I could have done a 5 inch lol but 11.5 seems absurd. And no I got hardware from vr as well
@@Drift.Thingsoh nice okay that’s what i was imagining but good to know i’d still need a small spacer at least. sweet thank you sir!
Don’t drive on these . You’re about to have a lot of broken bolts, unbalanceable wheels and in danger of completely failing.
You need to mill the faces not so “nice and clean , and flat “ but so there is a register on the back side of the lip for it to sit (hub) central and not have all the load on your hardware.. that or the front side need milling down some more and the reverse mount them rather than sandwich. Your aiming to have the face physically slot in to the barrel just as the lip does that you bought . Not just align the bolt holes like you have and expect that driving load won’t shift that all over the place .
Honestly a good thing this was one day ago as you were about the to write your car off and god knows what else .
17’s been on for almost 3 years. 18’s for a season. I jump the car on these wheels often or slam rumble strips or hit other cars. They are strong as shit.
I milled and built fronts that way for a video later on though. Both are safe have a good day
Oh and they balance too
@@Drift.Things and like to see that. And then the same wheel again after one drive . I’d bet it will be out again . I’m not coming down on you , but 100% that’s just wrong info you have put out. You are expected the entire weight of the vehicle and added road forces to simply sit on some m7 bolts from china .. simple fact the face needs registration not just mating surfaces. I’ve done this for 20years and seen this same stuff a million times never with good results. Simply skimming 3mm from the back the required bore to fit the barrel and your golden , until then …well…:
Ok I’m just saying this works just fine if you’re doing it at home. We’ve abused them for years. If you can find a way to mount a style 19 reversed in a lathe please let me know otherwise we sandwich or cut the front and mount them both there. I’ve even said in the video I would lathe them if built for a customer.
But either way works and is safe, as I’ve proven over years of abuse drifting. I mean tons of abuse man.
@@elliottcheyne-sublimecoatingsI bent my frame below my ass on his rear one and didn't break it.
I've also had a set on my dcar for over a year no issues. I think they are stronger than oem.
When converting 2 piece to 3 piece, the back of the face needs to be machined in order for the rear barrel to seat properly so your bolts don’t snap over time. People please do not following this instructional video it’s completely wrong and dangerous.
Front has ridge and we cut it deeper for front wheels and mont both there. We also do that if building for someone else. But this setup has held fine for years under tons of abuse!
Thanks for watching!