Fun fact you can get new ones that is special ordered through carquest/advance auto parts but the cost of the valve itself is $200 to $300, so I just took it apart and sprayed WD-40 untill the valve selector moved up and down freely
Your video is the third one I've watched where there's no mention of the filter that is in the bottom of the housing , inside the round part. Mine (filter) clogged way back in the day & no one knew of that damned filter . I was stranded in a mechanic shop for 2 days in Victorville Ca. (a long way from home) and at closing time on the 2nd day, the owners dad shows up & asks if we changed the filter in the dual tank selector . The bottom screwed off just like an oil filter , with the big help of an oil filter wrench ,and it was TIGHT. Filter was so clogged , it weighed like a solid hockey puck .
There was no mention of the filter because they eliminated it fairly early on so the VAST majority of these just have an empty reservoir and no filter.
Great video sir! It’s refreshing to find someone willing to take the time to explain step by step. Thanks again. This helped me tremendously! People Helping People! Good stuff
FYI, my 88 Ranger has the exact same canister/valve, except that it's set up for single tank. So you can add the 80's ford rangers for a single tank valve along with the bronco.
Rock auto standard motor products part number FV5K universal fuel tank selector valve, works great, have it on my 89 f150 5.0 now... Dont pay $200 to $300 for the original that is no longer produced. Also dont waste time cleaning it, I did that and in 6 months the same problems started again.
they do have some metal connecting tubes made by doorman that eliminates the selector valve i got mine at autozone for about $10 also you may have to go another route and use a selector valve and all new fuel injection hose . the selector valve is like the one used on a 1985 chevy truck with dual tanks, there are videos on you tube about it , hope this helps yall like it did me with my 1988 f250
The bottom of the fuel selector screws off and there is a filter inside but if you do unscrew it they don't make a new O ring for it, i got lucky and found an O ring kit at advance auto that worked. They make a replacement for it but it doesn't come with the filter for it, it a small thing that looks like a fuel pump.
THANK YOU!! This helps A LOT! The symptoms I'm having with my '89 F350 7.5 liter strongly suggest this thing is the culprit. I live 80 miles from town. One day I was leaving town with both tanks just filled. I switched from the rear tank to the front tank and it took about a block for the truck to die due to fuel starvation. Switching back to the rear tank allowed the engine to start immediately - no doubt after the reservoir re-filled. I got clear home without a hitch. Part of the trip is on a somewhat bumpy gravel road. Next day I started the truck on the rear tank, and switched to the front one while it was running, expecting the engine to die. It did not. I made at least 2 more round trips (160 miles each) to town WITHOUT switching the tank selector either trip; refilling the front tank before leaving town both times. The truck ran strong - as it must to climb the 2200 foot elevation gain back home without a whimper. I then ran it back to town and on toward Albuquerque - a total of about another 130 miles - still without changing tanks and it ran strong the whole time. I then switched to the rear tank, and then after about another 100 miles of operation I refilled both tanks. I then switched to the front tank and kaboom - it croaked in about a block or two. Going back to the rear tank again "solved" my problem, but now I'm having difficulty getting it to run on the front tank. I do hear the in-tank pump run when I turn on the ignition switch, but it dies shortly starting. I'm suspecting this fuel valve may be sticking, and that the first time I had the problem, maybe the jarring roads loosened it enough to allow the valve to switch that "one more time" letting me to run that 450 miles on the front tank again after my original problem.
@@MrCammthemann Turns out it was NOT the selector valve - though I had already installed a new one. It was most likely a poor electrical connection to the in tank fuel pump. I replaced that pump with a brand new one and SOLDERED the connection wires to the pump and no more problem. As is so often the case with electrical connection problems, they are intermittent - which was my case.
GREAT info about the Bronco option, heck I'm removing my factory fuel injection going with a carb & then using a Holley RED frame mount fuek pump, tired of all these electronic crap
I kept having problems with that manual valve. Swapped it over to the electric valve from a diesel. Worked great. Kept going through tank pumps. Got the fittings and made gravity feed to external pump. Works like a charm.
Can I just buy a inline edelbrock fuel pump and connect the return line and supply the bad side with the Edelbrock pump and leave the working side which is the rear alone I would need to set up the switch are there any other options to eliminate the selector switch? And keep both tanks usable 7.5 gas 91 xtr lariat E40d
Dorman makes bypass tubes for these that you can connect to each end of the fuel line and completely eliminate the reservoir. Having the reservoir is not a necessity.
I could not find bypass tubes for double sided male to female quick connect in Dorman's catalog for fuel line accessories/fittings. However, I did find both 3/8 and 5/16 connector tubes at, Racetronix. the 3/8 part number is Item #: QDA-38M38. The 5/16 can be found on the same page. I'm in the middle of refurbishing my selector, just flushing out he crud, lubricating the valve and replaced the small o-ring. I do believe it had a stuck valve. Will know when I install it.
Now so for these things, on my 93 I got rid of it for the plumbing aspect. For the electrical aspect I just took it & im gonna just have it underneath just for the fuel level in each tank. My valve in my truck was getting stuck where the front tank would get stuck 1/2 way suck in air starving the engine of fuel. I will have a video on how to do it on my channel MikeJD60.
The ones that have that larger reservoir (I think like the one in this video) don't have a filter I don't think. Meant for 86' or later, just a pickup tube in there. The smaller reservoir ones like in 85-86 have a little filter in there though. they almost look identical. You can tell if it's like 3-4 inches long on the bottom (no filter) vs. like 2.5 inch cap (filter). Correct me if I'm wrong but after doing a lil research there's no filter in these ones, the filter should be on the fuel line sitting behind this whole contraption towards the two tanks.
Nice video. I was hoping for a bit more detail. So when you hit the selector switch on the dash that must turn on the pump on in the tank. The valve it self must have a check valve inside that keeps fuel from going where you don't want it??
Sup brad, I have the same issue you had where gas is overflowing the front tank. I did some research and found that there’s check valves in the fuel pump that allow rear gas to the front when they go bad, so will replacing this selector valve solve the issue ? Or is it the check valves in the fuel pump ? I just really don’t wanna drop my tank lol that’d be a pain in the ass, thanks
My 94 f250 diesel, front tank will pull fuel from rear tank. At times it acts like it starving for fuel. Fuel filter light will come on and there are times it will die.
I think this is what happened to me because I just replaced my rear tank and pump because it was fucked with rust and the pump wasn't pumping well ,buuuuut my front tank was puking fuel so I think imma just bypass it for now
Wear you able to bypass the valve? I am about too only run off the rear tank because I removed the front one. The truck is acting really bad cause I just closed off the old lines going to the front tank and did not change anything with the selector valve...
I have a single tank and this is removed due to the rear tank leaking. Why would the single tank not work if the "bronco" one was not substituted? I'm losing fuel pressure after few minutes of driving in a truck I purchased last week.
How do you test it? My '89 F350 diesel does not read the properly at the gauge. Also, I think my rear fuel pump may be bad as it seems to run out of fuel on occasion even when I know it's full. The front tank has acted up like that, too. Seems to run out when I know has has a few gallons in it. So, are my sending units bad (gauges not reading)? Is my rear fuel pump going bad? How do I to test for all these things?
Is video is only useful for 86-91 Ford Trucks with a diaphragm. The earlier 80-82 use a 3 port valve and the 83-85 6 port valve electric solenoid valve. We’re out of luck in any case, the replacements for earlier 80-85 trucks only have barbed fittings and the later 87-96 replacement is barbed fitting as well. Nobody has a new or remain diaphragm tank selector and the rest of us have to convert barbed fittings to even use the replacement part available to us. The only place that has the correct tank selector valves for period correct OBS Ford Trucks is “LMC Truck.com” and even those have barbed fittings. Don’t use the garbage tank selector valves from parts store chains like AutoZone or O’Reillys auto parts, they are cheap garbage that are all the same part either sold under the house brand name or just reboxed sold as OEM. None of which have the correct push on with o-ring seal and plastic locks like ford used, all replacement tank selector valves for OBS Trucks have barbed fittings.
The part reference you give for keeping the dual tanks shows a selector valve for diesel fords. Is the vehicle you are working on a diesel or gas engine?
Maybe you can help... I have a 1991 E150 that I am about to be running a decently higher performance engine in.. its a 5.0 EFI) I was somewhat ignorant to these fuel systems.. so I assumed I needed two higher pressure in tank fuel pumps... as it turns out there are 3 fuel pumps? So the only in tank pumps I could find do flow at 150 lph but @ 7 psi.. like for a carb.. so I assumed I needed more pressure for EFI... I have new tanks.. sending units.. and these two pumps that fit perfectly with the units.. the question is... does the high pressure pump after this valve take care of everything else? Like are the in tank pumps only supposed to be at a low pressure before the valve? Maybe its this way because of all of the changes going on.. like carb to EFI... thank you so much for any help.
I have a 95 and only the rear tank works, the front tank doesn’t overflow, when you switch to the front (broken) tank and turn the key on you can hear the fuel pump try to prime the engine but it does sound different, lower pitched, than the back (working) tank. Does anyone know what the problem could be.
my 1990 ford Econoline E-350 van has this same selector valve and the problem with it, is once the fuel pressure gets to a certain psi it sprays the fuel back into the return line somehow straight back to the tank. is this possible? its so simple to hook up i know that is right. low fuel pressure at the fuel rail and gas pouring back to the tank. also, i replaced the pressure regulator to get that out of the equation. anything helps here. I may just buy a single selector valve as it it half the price of a dual tank valve and just run on one tank. when i blow compressed air through the in line on the selector i can feel air coming out of the return line to the tank. must be leaking somehow, van sat for 12 years.....
I've got a 90' Ford. Just converted into a wrecker. Had to remove the rear tank. Now the front reads full constantly.. Not sure what happened.. Any suggestions?
I just got a 1995 ford f-super duty with the 7.3L and my tanks seem like it draws from both tanks together if i run the rear tank but, if i run the front tank it only pulls from that tank. Not sure whats going on is that a thing or maybe someone done something to make it work like that?
The fuel selector value on my 89 F150 is like goopy at the bottom. Almost like pancake sytup.. Also after the truck engine gets hot, it begins to stall out like getting no fuel. I plan on replace the value with a new one I found on Amazon along with replacing the fuel filter and the fuel pressure value next to the fuel injector rack. Does this sound like a good approach? Thanks.
About the gas tank, I just bought an OBS Ford F250 1991 and it's missing the front tank. Since I'm shopping for the front tank I might as well increase the size of the rear tank. I don't have much money right now so if you would send me a link to were you purchased yours and how difficult is the install? Please and thank you
is that a diesel truck?? because i have an 84 f 150 xlt extended cab long bed, and my fuel tank selector looks way smaller than that ,,also when i bought the truck a few months back,,it had no middle tank. only a rear tank ,,someone took out the middle tank and bypassed the fuel tank selector all together,,well i bought a bran new side tank and want to hook it back up but not sure how it goes..with the selector
This might be a really dumb question but is there anything special about switching tanks? Like can I do it as I'm driving or does the engine need to be off etc?
Each tank has a low pressure fuel pump *in the tank* as well as the high pressure pump on the frame rail in front of the selector valve. You may have lost the low pressure pump. You have to pull the bed or drop the tank to access it.
I have a 1990 Ford F150 that dumps all of my fuel from my rear tank to my front tank. My rear tank & pump are brand new, front tank & pump are old, & do not work. I've searched hi & lo for a fuel tank selector valve, but I promise, I don't see one anywhere, period. I was told there has to be one somewhere.. But for the life of me, there is not one on my truck. Could it be that I have a faulty fuel tank switch? Would that switch cause my rear tank to dump all of my fuel into the front tank? I've put my old fuel pump check valve on the new pump. If the switch isn't the issue, or there is a fuel tank selector valve hidden in one of those hard to find places, then what could be the issue? Is there a fuel tank switch relay? If so, would you happen to know where these things are located.. I'm really stuck.. I put $50.00 in my rear tank, went 5 miles, came back almost empty. Please help, this is a heavy concern.. Thanks in advance..
@@luisalfonsodl1364 Wow! I changed my front tank & pump. I read that because the pump was old, the check valve in it, or even attached to it was not working anymore, & would not stop back flow. I also found out that I would be able to install a inline check valve if the problem persisted. I haven't really tested it yet, because I changed my tie rod ends & ball joints, & plan to change my shocks & bushings, then go & get front end alignment. So it's parked til March, til I get it aligned. But both tanks & pumps are brand new.. It seems to be okay at this point, from starting, & just going around the corner, but I haven't really drove it yet to see how to does. If your pumps are fairly new, then I would install inline check valves in your fuel lines, they are very cheap on the price. There are multiple videos on youtube about it..
@@luisalfonsodl1364 Here is a link to a video on inline check valves: th-cam.com/video/STIQa1ct_5s/w-d-xo.html There are lots of them on youtube. This is what I will try next, if I still have problems, but I was told that I shouldn't, because the pumps are new, & they have check valves built into them that should work fine.
My brother removed my front fuel tank pump plug on the top of my 1991 Ford F150, and replaced it. My back tank always worked fine, and the truck idled fine. Now when I have to turn the key forward while in neutral, I put a screwdriver between the solinode it starts and stops. So I keep using the screwdriver trick, and it sputs and sputters running for 10 minutes or so, then stalls. The exhaust muffler even turned red, until I cut it off. Do you have any ideas I should try?
The high pressure pump sends to the engine but the rails cannot use all of the fuel so it returns it to the tank. The engine has a regulator that diverts it back when it gets to a max pressure point.
Auto parts stores don’t have a clue? Been doing parts most my life sold tons of them behind the counter at Ford dealerships and now, Oreillys. Saved many a person having to drop their fuel tank too. I was starting to like you 🤣 Just joking. Carry on.
I have a 1989 f250 and having a fuel problem. I can't hear my pumps turn on I changed the fuel regulator fuel pump. Does that mean my pumps are bad inside the tank or could it be the selector valve? Thank you
Go to rock auto... There is a universal one part number FV5K. $55.79. I have it on my 89 f150 5.0 and don't waste time cleaning the old one,, I did that and in about 6 months I was back in the same boat.
Yes it does, also some of them have a filter. There is a VERY thin O-ring that seals it, make sure you have a new one, they usually come with the filter. I can't stress enough on how clean it has to be, between the two surfaces.. Make sure theres no dirt or grime when u screw the bottom cup back on or it WILL leak!
Great video. Mine is going the other way, front leaking into back. Hopefully I can locate it at a wrecker about $200 new. Have you any experience changing the valve to a Universal switch tank valve??
It’s been took off by the previous owner. The front tank was hooked up with rubber hose to the lines feeding the motor. Rubber hose inplace of the selector.
Gotcha yeah that a common "cure" but if you want to run it that way I would suggest getting the bronco unit. They came with one tank and it has the reservoir so it doesn't run lean
i got a 81 f100 4.9l does this truck have two tanks like yours or only one? i have no tank by the back tires but i do have a big empty space there that looks like there should be one.the only tank i do got is what looks like 22.5gal auxiliary tank running along the driverside frame.
I’m in the same boat. Do you have two fuel tank doors on the side of your truck bed? If so someone probably deleted the second tank as they did on mine. I am doing research here trying to add a second take back again and getting the truck back to original set up
Go to the wrecking yard and get the dual tank stuff and install it most all of the wiring in the main harness should be there so you'd probably only need the harnesses that plug into the main harness and the fuel lines, switches, tank, tank mounting hardware, soiree harnesses, new bed of its not a dual tank bed, fill spout, dash switch and plastic it mounted in to match your dash.
Glad the video helped. I put two links in the description where you can purchase the valve to correctly covert to one tank and also a link to the valve if you want to keep the existing two tank setup.
You guys need some schooling, forget the fancy electric switch garbage just swap it out for a brass 3 way valve installed in the floor right beside the seat, problem solved, just because some ford bean counter thinks everyone needs a switch to change tanks doesn't mean you need to stick with that crap.
Check the description for links to replace the valves
If I want to make it one tank which on would I eliminate?
Fun fact you can get new ones that is special ordered through carquest/advance auto parts but the cost of the valve itself is $200 to $300, so I just took it apart and sprayed WD-40 untill the valve selector moved up and down freely
Imma just screenshot this…
@@thatonegamer9547 imma just screen shot this and that
70 on eBay.
Your video is the third one I've watched where there's no mention of the filter that is in the bottom of the housing , inside the round part. Mine (filter) clogged way back in the day & no one knew of that damned filter . I was stranded in a mechanic shop for 2 days in Victorville Ca. (a long way from home) and at closing time on the 2nd day, the owners dad shows up & asks if we changed the filter in the dual tank selector . The bottom screwed off just like an oil filter , with the big help of an oil filter wrench ,and it was TIGHT. Filter was so clogged , it weighed like a solid hockey puck .
There was no mention of the filter because they eliminated it fairly early on so the VAST majority of these just have an empty reservoir and no filter.
I pulled mine out and did the bypass put in a fuel filter. And its running fine better than before.
Great video sir! It’s refreshing to find someone willing to take the time to explain step by step. Thanks again. This helped me tremendously! People Helping People! Good stuff
FYI, my 88 Ranger has the exact same canister/valve, except that it's set up for single tank. So you can add the 80's ford rangers for a single tank valve along with the bronco.
That's awesome to know thanks for sharing
Rock auto standard motor products part number FV5K universal fuel tank selector valve, works great, have it on my 89 f150 5.0 now... Dont pay $200 to $300 for the original that is no longer produced. Also dont waste time cleaning it, I did that and in 6 months the same problems started again.
they do have some metal connecting tubes made by doorman that eliminates the selector valve i got mine at autozone for about $10 also you may have to go another route and use a selector valve and all new fuel injection hose . the selector valve is like the one used on a 1985 chevy truck with dual tanks, there are videos on you tube about it , hope this helps yall like it did me with my 1988 f250
“They have no idea” and the current part for my truck actually does not fit and must be adapted. I’m going to try the by pass idea. Great video
The bottom of the fuel selector screws off and there is a filter inside but if you do unscrew it they don't make a new O ring for it, i got lucky and found an O ring kit at advance auto that worked. They make a replacement for it but it doesn't come with the filter for it, it a small thing that looks like a fuel pump.
You can buy selector valves from Napa.
THANK YOU!! This helps A LOT! The symptoms I'm having with my '89 F350 7.5 liter strongly suggest this thing is the culprit. I live 80 miles from town. One day I was leaving town with both tanks just filled. I switched from the rear tank to the front tank and it took about a block for the truck to die due to fuel starvation. Switching back to the rear tank allowed the engine to start immediately - no doubt after the reservoir re-filled. I got clear home without a hitch. Part of the trip is on a somewhat bumpy gravel road. Next day I started the truck on the rear tank, and switched to the front one while it was running, expecting the engine to die. It did not. I made at least 2 more round trips (160 miles each) to town WITHOUT switching the tank selector either trip; refilling the front tank before leaving town both times. The truck ran strong - as it must to climb the 2200 foot elevation gain back home without a whimper. I then ran it back to town and on toward Albuquerque - a total of about another 130 miles - still without changing tanks and it ran strong the whole time. I then switched to the rear tank, and then after about another 100 miles of operation I refilled both tanks. I then switched to the front tank and kaboom - it croaked in about a block or two. Going back to the rear tank again "solved" my problem, but now I'm having difficulty getting it to run on the front tank. I do hear the in-tank pump run when I turn on the ignition switch, but it dies shortly starting. I'm suspecting this fuel valve may be sticking, and that the first time I had the problem, maybe the jarring roads loosened it enough to allow the valve to switch that "one more time" letting me to run that 450 miles on the front tank again after my original problem.
I'm having the same problem. Was it the selector valve or the fuel pump?
@@MrCammthemann Turns out it was NOT the selector valve - though I had already installed a new one. It was most likely a poor electrical connection to the in tank fuel pump. I replaced that pump with a brand new one and SOLDERED the connection wires to the pump and no more problem. As is so often the case with electrical connection problems, they are intermittent - which was my case.
@@MrCammthemann check the wires next to battery they get corrode. One goes to the fuel system and sometimes cut the power
Thanks for this info. It may been about a f-150 it was also the best info on the e-150.
Thank you so much for your video, it helped me alot on my truck to troubleshoot my problem👍
GREAT info about the Bronco option, heck I'm removing my factory fuel injection going with a carb & then using a Holley RED frame mount fuek pump, tired of all these electronic crap
I kept having problems with that manual valve. Swapped it over to the electric valve from a diesel. Worked great. Kept going through tank pumps. Got the fittings and made gravity feed to external pump. Works like a charm.
Dude that's awesome good idea for sure 👍
I know hot-rodders have been using generic external fuel pumps for decades, so I thought that should work. Do you have a part number, make and model?
That "reservoir" is a fuel filter
WoW I learned something today my 95 does this
My 96 does this
You can just take it apart and clean the selector valve inside.
I did that and in 6 months it went bad again. Just go to rock auto they have a universal one for 55 bucks
Can I just buy a inline edelbrock fuel pump and connect the return line and supply the bad side with the Edelbrock pump and leave the working side which is the rear alone I would need to set up the switch are there any other options to eliminate the selector switch? And keep both tanks usable 7.5 gas 91 xtr lariat E40d
Dorman makes bypass tubes for these that you can connect to each end of the fuel line and completely eliminate the reservoir. Having the reservoir is not a necessity.
I could not find bypass tubes for double sided male to female quick connect in Dorman's catalog for fuel line accessories/fittings. However, I did find both 3/8 and 5/16 connector tubes at, Racetronix. the 3/8 part number is Item #: QDA-38M38. The 5/16 can be found on the same page. I'm in the middle of refurbishing my selector, just flushing out he crud, lubricating the valve and replaced the small o-ring. I do believe it had a stuck valve. Will know when I install it.
Now so for these things, on my 93 I got rid of it for the plumbing aspect. For the electrical aspect I just took it & im gonna just have it underneath just for the fuel level in each tank.
My valve in my truck was getting stuck where the front tank would get stuck 1/2 way suck in air starving the engine of fuel.
I will have a video on how to do it on my channel MikeJD60.
I got the same problem wit a old Chevy
Bottom canister has a filter. It unscrews change filter inside.
The ones that have that larger reservoir (I think like the one in this video) don't have a filter I don't think. Meant for 86' or later, just a pickup tube in there. The smaller reservoir ones like in 85-86 have a little filter in there though. they almost look identical. You can tell if it's like 3-4 inches long on the bottom (no filter) vs. like 2.5 inch cap (filter). Correct me if I'm wrong but after doing a lil research there's no filter in these ones, the filter should be on the fuel line sitting behind this whole contraption towards the two tanks.
@@jameshardy5743 alot of problem s with that thing.
Thanks for researching
Thank you sir for this video. Good information and just what i needed to know.
50th subscribed and a heck of a lot to appreciate for the video thank you again!
Dang dude that's awesome. I feel the need to make more content now lol
Thanks for the video and looking at the old
super helpful, thanks for posting.
Super helpful, thanks
Nice video. I was hoping for a bit more detail. So when you hit the selector switch on the dash that must turn on the pump on in the tank. The valve it self must have a check valve inside that keeps fuel from going where you don't want it??
Pressure from the driver selected tank causes the selector valve to switch.
I got a new fuel pump sending unit and it still won’t read the level of gas
💪💪💪💪Thank you brother.
Yes I like this information I'll be in touch
Thank you
I am having the same problem on my 92 F250
thanks!
same thing on 1992 .dealer did not repair it ,lied about it and damaged the bed .Tallahassee ford .
How to switch between tanks?
Sup brad, I have the same issue you had where gas is overflowing the front tank. I did some research and found that there’s check valves in the fuel pump that allow rear gas to the front when they go bad, so will replacing this selector valve solve the issue ? Or is it the check valves in the fuel pump ? I just really don’t wanna drop my tank lol that’d be a pain in the ass, thanks
I need the back brakes
Great video
the second link appears to be incorrect
What about for a ‘90? I’m having the same problem
Is this also in the 83s with the mechanical fuel pump on the block?
My 94 f250 diesel, front tank will pull fuel from rear tank. At times it acts like it starving for fuel. Fuel filter light will come on and there are times it will die.
I think this is what happened to me because I just replaced my rear tank and pump because it was fucked with rust and the pump wasn't pumping well ,buuuuut my front tank was puking fuel so I think imma just bypass it for now
Wear you able to bypass the valve? I am about too only run off the rear tank because I removed the front one. The truck is acting really bad cause I just closed off the old lines going to the front tank and did not change anything with the selector valve...
Mine is totally un hooked and bypassed I want to hook it up again but need to buy new lines where do I buy lines
Can you disassemble clean and rebuild this unit?
I have a single tank and this is removed due to the rear tank leaking. Why would the single tank not work if the "bronco" one was not substituted?
I'm losing fuel pressure after few minutes of driving in a truck I purchased last week.
1991 doesn’t have this?
I've got an 89 Ford Bronco. Fuel seems only to leak from the bottom when the vehicle is on. Think a bad pump could be my issue as well?
How do you test it?
My '89 F350 diesel does not read the properly at the gauge.
Also, I think my rear fuel pump may be bad as it seems to run out of fuel on occasion even when I know it's full.
The front tank has acted up like that, too. Seems to run out when I know has has a few gallons in it.
So, are my sending units bad (gauges not reading)?
Is my rear fuel pump going bad?
How do I to test for all these things?
Awesome video. Extremely informative, Thanks!
1980 camper.. can i just bypass. has a mechanical pump on the engine..
Is video is only useful for 86-91 Ford Trucks with a diaphragm. The earlier 80-82 use a 3 port valve and the 83-85 6 port valve electric solenoid valve. We’re out of luck in any case, the replacements for earlier 80-85 trucks only have barbed fittings and the later 87-96 replacement is barbed fitting as well.
Nobody has a new or remain diaphragm tank selector and the rest of us have to convert barbed fittings to even use the replacement part available to us. The only place that has the correct tank selector valves for period correct OBS Ford Trucks is “LMC Truck.com” and even those have barbed fittings.
Don’t use the garbage tank selector valves from parts store chains like AutoZone or O’Reillys auto parts, they are cheap garbage that are all the same part either sold under the house brand name or just reboxed sold as OEM. None of which have the correct push on with o-ring seal and plastic locks like ford used, all replacement tank selector valves for OBS Trucks have barbed fittings.
The part reference you give for keeping the dual tanks shows a selector valve for diesel fords. Is the vehicle you are working on a diesel or gas engine?
Gas 5.8
Maybe you can help... I have a 1991 E150 that I am about to be running a decently higher performance engine in.. its a 5.0 EFI) I was somewhat ignorant to these fuel systems.. so I assumed I needed two higher pressure in tank fuel pumps... as it turns out there are 3 fuel pumps? So the only in tank pumps I could find do flow at 150 lph but @ 7 psi.. like for a carb.. so I assumed I needed more pressure for EFI... I have new tanks.. sending units.. and these two pumps that fit perfectly with the units.. the question is... does the high pressure pump after this valve take care of everything else? Like are the in tank pumps only supposed to be at a low pressure before the valve? Maybe its this way because of all of the changes going on.. like carb to EFI... thank you so much for any help.
I have a 95 and only the rear tank works, the front tank doesn’t overflow, when you switch to the front (broken) tank and turn the key on you can hear the fuel pump try to prime the engine but it does sound different, lower pitched, than the back (working) tank. Does anyone know what the problem could be.
my 1990 ford Econoline E-350 van has this same selector valve and the problem with it, is once the fuel pressure gets to a certain psi it sprays the fuel back into the return line somehow straight back to the tank. is this possible? its so simple to hook up i know that is right. low fuel pressure at the fuel rail and gas pouring back to the tank. also, i replaced the pressure regulator to get that out of the equation. anything helps here. I may just buy a single selector valve as it it half the price of a dual tank valve and just run on one tank. when i blow compressed air through the in line on the selector i can feel air coming out of the return line to the tank. must be leaking somehow, van sat for 12 years.....
I've got a 90' Ford. Just converted into a wrecker. Had to remove the rear tank. Now the front reads full constantly.. Not sure what happened.. Any suggestions?
I just got a 1995 ford f-super duty with the 7.3L and my tanks seem like it draws from both tanks together if i run the rear tank but, if i run the front tank it only pulls from that tank. Not sure whats going on is that a thing or maybe someone done something to make it work like that?
The fuel selector value on my 89 F150 is like goopy at the bottom. Almost like pancake sytup.. Also after the truck engine gets hot, it begins to stall out like getting no fuel. I plan on replace the value with a new one I found on Amazon along with replacing the fuel filter and the fuel pressure value next to the fuel injector rack. Does this sound like a good approach? Thanks.
Would this cause the fuel pumps not to prime?
About the gas tank, I just bought an OBS Ford F250 1991 and it's missing the front tank. Since I'm shopping for the front tank I might as well increase the size of the rear tank. I don't have much money right now so if you would send me a link to were you purchased yours and how difficult is the install? Please and thank you
So is there any way to bypass it? i have a 88 bronco that the Reservoir is leaking and i cant get my lines to seal...
I've seen people cut the lines and bypass it. Not exactly the correct thing to do because it can lead to running lean.
is that a diesel truck?? because i have an 84 f 150 xlt extended cab long bed, and my fuel tank selector looks way smaller than that ,,also when i bought the truck a few months back,,it had no middle tank. only a rear tank ,,someone took out the middle tank and bypassed the fuel tank selector all together,,well i bought a bran new side tank and want to hook it back up but not sure how it goes..with the selector
Man dude wish I had more info on that for you. The one in the video was a 5.8 gas motor.
@@bradepperson4460 mine is a 302 carb
This might be a really dumb question but is there anything special about switching tanks? Like can I do it as I'm driving or does the engine need to be off etc?
Let r rip at any time
well? Now I know , what problem is an what needs to be done. But you didn't mention the price of a new one. If in deed I find one Thanks! thumbs up
Auto Zone for approx $90. New from Ford is $180 to $220 Do not bother Amazon or E-Bay.
eBAY BUT THEY R OVER $200.00
WHEN GO TO MY BACK TANK THE TRUCK GOES DEAD IT HAS A NEW FUEL PUMP. WHAT DO U THANK IT COULD BE.THANKS ROLAND
Each tank has a low pressure fuel pump *in the tank* as well as the high pressure pump on the frame rail in front of the selector valve. You may have lost the low pressure pump. You have to pull the bed or drop the tank to access it.
They can get the new part
I have a 1990 Ford F150 that dumps all of my fuel from my rear tank to my front tank.
My rear tank & pump are brand new, front tank & pump are old, & do not work.
I've searched hi & lo for a fuel tank selector valve, but I promise, I don't see one anywhere, period.
I was told there has to be one somewhere.. But for the life of me, there is not one on my truck.
Could it be that I have a faulty fuel tank switch? Would that switch cause my rear tank to dump all of my fuel into the front tank?
I've put my old fuel pump check valve on the new pump.
If the switch isn't the issue, or there is a fuel tank selector valve hidden in one of those hard to find places, then what could be the issue?
Is there a fuel tank switch relay?
If so, would you happen to know where these things are located..
I'm really stuck.. I put $50.00 in my rear tank, went 5 miles, came back almost empty.
Please help, this is a heavy concern..
Thanks in advance..
Dee 1, I have the same problem... but my front tank dump in the rear and the rear dump in the front... ¿how do you fixed your problem?
I foun this, but I can’t understand how the switch in the frame can do that problem : www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-c5249_ds468075
@@luisalfonsodl1364 Wow!
I changed my front tank & pump. I read that because the pump was old, the check valve in it, or even attached to it was not working anymore, & would not stop back flow.
I also found out that I would be able to install a inline check valve if the problem persisted.
I haven't really tested it yet, because I changed my tie rod ends & ball joints, & plan to change my shocks & bushings, then go & get front end alignment.
So it's parked til March, til I get it aligned. But both tanks & pumps are brand new..
It seems to be okay at this point, from starting, & just going around the corner, but I haven't really drove it yet to see how to does.
If your pumps are fairly new, then I would install inline check valves in your fuel lines, they are very cheap on the price.
There are multiple videos on youtube about it..
@@luisalfonsodl1364 Here is a link to a video on inline check valves:
th-cam.com/video/STIQa1ct_5s/w-d-xo.html
There are lots of them on youtube.
This is what I will try next, if I still have problems, but I was told that I shouldn't, because the pumps are new, & they have check valves built into them that should work fine.
Dee 1 Thanks!!! I’m going to check that!! I appreciate your help
My brother removed my front fuel tank pump plug on the top of my 1991 Ford F150, and replaced it. My back tank always worked fine, and the truck idled fine. Now when I have to turn the key forward while in neutral, I put a screwdriver between the solinode it starts and stops. So I keep using the screwdriver trick, and it sputs and sputters running for 10 minutes or so, then stalls. The exhaust muffler even turned red, until I cut it off. Do you have any ideas I should try?
Yes, talk to your brother!
Why is there a return? What gets returned if the gas goes to the engine what's left to return?
The engine fuel rail has a fuel pressure regulator that adjusts fuel pressure to the injectors and excess fuel is bled back to the tanks.
The high pressure pump sends to the engine but the rails cannot use all of the fuel so it returns it to the tank.
The engine has a regulator that diverts it back when it gets to a max pressure point.
FOR some reason on my 83 f250, the new valve selector ports are in the opposite direction???? What's up with that??? How should I run it now???
Does your new valve have a total of 4 or 6 ports?
Auto parts stores don’t have a clue? Been doing parts most my life sold tons of them behind the counter at Ford dealerships and now, Oreillys. Saved many a person having to drop their fuel tank too. I was starting to like you 🤣
Just joking. Carry on.
I have a 1989 f250 and having a fuel problem. I can't hear my pumps turn on I changed the fuel regulator fuel pump. Does that mean my pumps are bad inside the tank or could it be the selector valve? Thank you
Put new filters on it then a psi tester... if it's under 50 psi replace your high psi fuel pump
PLEASE HELP!! I need to put a filter in my selector valve to keep it running ASAP!! It’s the same exact part as in this video!! Please help!!
Go to rock auto... There is a universal one part number FV5K. $55.79. I have it on my 89 f150 5.0 and don't waste time cleaning the old one,, I did that and in about 6 months I was back in the same boat.
Thats good to know. Thanks for sharing
Does the bottom of it come apart?
NO. Do not try It will Break.
Yes it does, also some of them have a filter. There is a VERY thin O-ring that seals it, make sure you have a new one, they usually come with the filter. I can't stress enough on how clean it has to be, between the two surfaces.. Make sure theres no dirt or grime when u screw the bottom cup back on or it WILL leak!
You'll have to use a strap wrench to remove the bottom.
Great video. Mine is going the other way, front leaking into back. Hopefully I can locate it at a wrecker about $200 new. Have you any experience changing the valve to a Universal switch tank valve??
James Byrnes take it out, take top off and clean valves with WD40. Simple and cheap
Go to rock auto its 55 bucks for the universal one. I got it on my 89 f150 5.0 manual 4x4. So worth it.
Does that have a electric plug on it? Bought a 87 250 and it doeSnt have the selector on it...
No this one did not. When you say it doesn't have a selector what exactly do you mean?
It’s been took off by the previous owner. The front tank was hooked up with rubber hose to the lines feeding the motor. Rubber hose inplace of the selector.
Gotcha yeah that a common "cure" but if you want to run it that way I would suggest getting the bronco unit. They came with one tank and it has the reservoir so it doesn't run lean
There is a link in the description where to purchase one
How does it switch between tanks tho? Or is the switch in the cab only for the gauge?
i got a 81 f100 4.9l does this truck have two tanks like yours or only one? i have no tank by the back tires but i do have a big empty space there that looks like there should be one.the only tank i do got is what looks like 22.5gal auxiliary tank running along the driverside frame.
and also can i do the 89 bronco thing you siad to mine and just run the truck from the mechanical pump ?
What year bronco would I need to search for to eliminate one tank?
kevin w just buy the 50 door single selector in the description. I just ordered it and fixed the problem only on rear tank
So the way this works is that when you switch to either pump it makes the switch on pressure ?
I have a 94 ford f150 the 4.9 v6 and i only have a single tank is there a way you could add a secondary tank or did they only make that for the v8's?
I'd love to get some pictures of your pickup! I've never seen a 1987-1996 Ford full size pickup with a single tank!
I’m in the same boat. Do you have two fuel tank doors on the side of your truck bed? If so someone probably deleted the second tank as they did on mine. I am doing research here trying to add a second take back again and getting the truck back to original set up
Go to the wrecking yard and get the dual tank stuff and install it most all of the wiring in the main harness should be there so you'd probably only need the harnesses that plug into the main harness and the fuel lines, switches, tank, tank mounting hardware, soiree harnesses, new bed of its not a dual tank bed, fill spout, dash switch and plastic it mounted in to match your dash.
Do you know who carries that part brand new ? Thank for the video it helped a lot..
Glad the video helped. I put two links in the description where you can purchase the valve to correctly covert to one tank and also a link to the valve if you want to keep the existing two tank setup.
LOTS of places have it, Ebay, Tasca, LMR, and Ford dealers. Avg price is $175.00 new
whatever tank Im using it pumps gas into the other tank. Ford should have redesigned these.
Sounds like your return lines are swapped on the selector valve.
@@winfieldtrail8956 really!? I'll look but what I hear is that this is a common issue. Thanks for the replay.
Hi, is this selector the same as for diesel or can you dothe same chanfes if it was diesel?
You guys need some schooling, forget the fancy electric switch garbage just swap it out for a brass 3 way valve installed in the floor right beside the seat, problem solved, just because some ford bean counter thinks everyone needs a switch to change tanks doesn't mean you need to stick with that crap.
Fudge. The ford. Im selling it..
Thank you
Thank you