Quick Tip, When running a screw back into plastic start by rotating the screw counter-clockwise. As you do this feel for the screw to drop off the old threads and when you feel the slight click begin turning the screw clockwise. This runs the screw back down the old threads rather than cutting new. This matters when working with old plastic, especially automotive, that may crack or break from the stress of forming new threads, thus avoiding a repair.
Thanks Keith, I have changed many cords on my equipment. Why did I bother watching your video. I don't know, but I do enjoy reading the comments, always learn something from them and you. I guess Keith just goes good with morning coffee!
Hi Keith ! When the damage is where it was here you CAN just pull the cord further in ... OK, it gets a little shorter, and do what you did with the new cable - that's it ! In fact the damage you had is the result of coilling up the LONG cord ... thats why I just shorten up the cord to 2 feet - half a meter - then they can last a lot longer ... because you DON'T need to coil them up when not using the grinder ! Just a free idea !
While putting back the self-tapping screws it's good practice, to turn them to the left side to find the beginning of the old thread in plastic parts. You can feel it, when the screw snaps to it.
When a cord shows that much wear, a new set of brushes would be a good idea as long as you had it open. When the brushes fail next week, you can share another video showing that project. :-) BTW, when the brushes wore down in my Crapsman angle grinder and replacements were not available, I put an 1/8" aluminum shim between the spring and the brush for a little more life. From now on, my angle grinders will be major brands with replacement parts available. No, I will not waste my time or money on Horrible Freight landfill tools.
Hey Keith I'll share a tip I learned from another TH-camr AVE. When you go to tighten the screws in plastic turn the screw counterclockwise until you feel it cam into the original cut thread, that way you don't recut a the thread and make a lose fit. Matt C.
A little tip here. Whenever I strip something that could be a little tricky, like trying to remember which wire went where, I take a couple of shots with my mobile phone camera before dismantling. Can save a bit of head scratching later.
In the case where I am shooting video, I have been known to go back an look at my video footage! Don't think I haven't done that before - even looking at the raw unedited stuff that never made it to what you guys see!
Whenever these cables die, i replace them with double shielded wire. Worth the extra price, and, the fact that i have to put a socket on the end, myself. I've no idea on who makes them, but it's the kind of wire that has a steel weave inside. Doesn't do much if you lay on it with a grinder, but you can't cut in to them and they don't suffer flexing problems all that much. Oldest installed, 12 years now, on my antique Bosch hand drill. Still feels pliable and even if it has a few nicks here and there it stands up to abuse. Haven't figured out a proper socket yet, those seem to elude me, but the ones that have ceramic bases seem to be overall winners, IF, you ignore the fact that you can shatter them if you drop them. Otherwise, because they are ceramic, they don't give much in terms of care, about overheating, which happens, when you're grinder happy :)
AvE started getting to me after awhile. I unsubbed and moved on. He talks about things he has no idea about, and people believe him because he "sounds" like he knows what he is talking about. I did like his humor and tomfoolery for the most part though.
Dewalt makes a tough tool, that D28110 model is the lighter duty ( 7 amp ) angle grinder but still a good work horse. The newer production DW402 is a beast ( 11 amp ) that takes on tough tasks that has a quick lever adjust guard and a lock nut that accepts a Allen key to secure the cutting/grinding wheel. I’m a dewalt tool user and a friend is a Milwaukee user, we compare notes all the time and the only thing I can find that he has a advantage of is that Milwaukee replaces batteries under warranty for life and dewalt only offers a 1 year warranty on their batteries..
I have become a fan of DeWalt tools. This grinder has been around for a long time and has quite honestly seen some abuse. While it needed some repairs, it is still going strong!
Dewalt Aren't Bad . I Have That Same Angle Grinder Myself . Occasional Use . Its 5 Years old No Problems. Dewalt , Most People Don't Know is Owned by Black & Decker
Hey Keith, have you tried those diamond metal cut off wheel yet. I like to use them because they dont shatter if they catch on what your cutting. At the worst they just bend a little and when that happens you just bend it back straight very easily. I've done a lot of heavy cutting with mine and it has held up pretty well. If I had used regular cutoff wheels for this ornamental fence job I just did I would have used lots of cutoff wheels but instead I've just use the one diamond one and it's still like new. I love it.
When you want to tape up a cord, the self fusing Silicon tape (non-adhesive) is a better choice than electrical or duct tape - seals up, doesn't dry out and unwrap, and flexes nicely. The more I use it, the better I like it.
I am frugal, when HF has their 4.5" grinders on sale for $9.95 I drop $60 for 6 of them. Have them all over the shop. One quits, throw it onto the broke pile and get a new one out of the cabinet. Then when some lazy winter day comes I pull them apart, cut about 10" off the cords, reinstall the cord and we are back in business. If HF were to put a little better grade of cord those things would be indestructible and if you do smash one it is only $9.95.
It's always nice to have a supply of some ratty tools that you can abuse when necessary. I like to keep some old wrenches and screw drivers I can bang on with a hammer without feeling any guilt; yard sale/garage sale special finds.
I am down to just hobby work building stuff out of old scrap pipe that has been down hole in oil wells and has every crappy salt known to man eating on it. I have found my grandson and myself can run those HF grinders to the point we have to wear welding gloves to hold onto them. Only failure common is the wire breaking 6" out from the grinder where the rocking motion used to clean up pipe flexes the wire into. I did have makitas but when something heavy dropped on them I said enough of the expensive stuff. Have backed over one of the HF with my one ton winch truck and it survived. And the truck survived also... Hey, maybe HF will send me free grinding and cutting tools and consumables for this positive feed back. Yeah right!
when i use flap wheels or thicker grinding wheels i stack a well worn flap wheel so the surface of the upper wheel is either even or slightly extended above the explosion guard. i.imgur.com/3dnjhEP.jpg the lower shaft plate has a centering shoulder on it.. as does the upper lock plate.. for those who look close. you may see the key screwed on under the handle.. so its always with the grinder..
Terminology Keith: the little yellow thing is a STRAIN RELIEF CLAMP the black thing is a BEND RESTRICTOR. Interesting to see that you only have moulded-on plugs. A lot of equipment here in the UK comes with moulded-on plugs, but we do have plugs that can be fitted and removed multiple times, so here we would normally just buy cable, and maybe a loose plug.
they do still sell loose plugs in the usa, but they are much bulkier and also not very strong, they have to be ridgid to support the pins, which tends to mean brittle plastic. the UK plug has more meat and thus easier to make them out of PP or modern strong plastics. and people make a terrible hash of wiring them, so better off with moulded cables! myself in the UK of course keep a stock of unbreakable plugs for workshop use, but as most tools come with moulded and good rubberised cables, its not as often as it used to be to replace.
Thanks for that. I still have some items wired for the old colour scheme, and I miss the 15 amp round pin plugs. I don't think I have any US standard 110v stuff so never had to replace that style of plug.
ahh the 15 amp round pin! they were some kind of bakelite, easily broken by todays standards, my last two plug failures were actually 80s rubber plugs breaking down, one the top came off pulling it out, leaving it live and exposed! modern plastics are both rigid and tough, never had an issued with moulded plugs at all, ive wondered how they connect them inside though.
Gordon McMillan - we do have loose plugs in the US and can just pick them up in any hardware store. They run the gamut from cheap plastic to heavy (commercial/industrial) rubber/metal combinations. The molded plugs are faster+easier+cheaper for the manufacturer.
Replacing wiring in portable power tools is some of the most tedious electrical work out there. Very little room, if any, for an extra bit of wire and I always hope the switch has screw connectors like the dewalt and not wire nuts.
Keith, you shoud have used some brass hoses at the end of the pigtale like the original. Don't screw copper directly. Copper is like water, it floats. I like your videos.
While I agree ferrules are the best way to terminate stranded wires it is simply not correct that copper flows. You might be thinking of tin or solder, which is why you never tin wires before putting them in a clamp terminal. Many terminals are approved for stranded wire without ferrules, and the use of ferrules is far less common in the US and UK than it is for example in central Europe (and even here it's a fairly recent trend). Ferrules must be crimped properly to do their job (gas tight), and I consider twisting the wires, if well done, an acceptable practice in a pinch.
@stefan I'm an electrotechnican since nearly 40 years. Believe me, copper floats. And tin or solder has not to be in a screw-connection. Never. Fine wire has to be finalized with a brass or similar metal. Like the original connection, which Keith opened. And yes, the crimping hast to be proper. Two times i had detected improper connections in a house. In both cases it was very short to a fire. In both cases it was (like you said) stranded wires under screws. The screws were not more tight enough. The Copper had floated. Sorry for my english, it's not my motherlanguage. Regards from Germany.
Copper doesn't flow significantly under pressure, otherwise every screw connection (even on solid core wire) would flow and loosen up. The ferrule would not make a difference, since the clamp pressure acts through the ferrule on the copper inside, the wall of the ferrule is too thin to resist the clamping force (just take a wire with a ferrule out of a screw clamp and look at the deformation). The actual purpose of the ferrule is twofold, it gathers the individual strands together so none can escape sideways (and reduce current carrying capacity as well as posing a safety hazard). The second purpose is to prevent corrosion of the thin strands (and thus an increase in resistance), which is why you need to make a gas tight crimp on a ferrule. Solder has been used in the past sometimes to tin stranded wire ends, even in Germany, and it was a very bad idea. Every single connection like that I have encountered was totally loose and most showed signs of overheating or had no contact at all. You can easily prove that solder cold flows by winding a piece of solder wire around your finger into a small coil and hanging it up by the end. After a short time you can observe that the coil has stretched out a lot, simply by cold flowing from it's own weight. If you do the same experiment with copper you can observe no such cold flow, (just the opposite, it actually work hardens). We can continue this in German if you prefer. Die Amis verwenden keine Adernendhülsen, kannst mir glauben. ;-)
Alfred Neumann ANY metal can flow, but copper does not flow in any significant way, it is perfectly OK to mount stranded wire without a ferrule. Ferrules are mostly used in production settings, where wires are mounted by machine, or at great speed manually, ferrules keeps strands together, but does little more then that. I have been an electrician for 36 years, and I have NEVER seen a screw terminal that was not rated for stranded wire ! OR a combination of solid AND stranded wire. Many companies mandate ferrules on their products, but strength is not the reason. If a screw connection fails, it is NOT because of the wire being stranded, it is because it was not torqued correctly, or the connection is the wrong size for the wire, a 1,5 mm wire in a 32 mm DIN rail terminal WILL fail.
Love the channel Keith but can't stand when people use the wrench to torque the grinding wheel! Then you got to go find the darn wrench when it's time to switch the wheel out... I have never used the wrench in my life and never had one come lose cause it gets tighter when you use it.
I generally replace my cords with more supple and longer cords. I can usually buy a nice 2 carrier 15 ft. extension cord for less than buying 15 ft of similar cord and a separate plug OR a shorter "replacement" cord with the bare wires on one end (as shown in this video). Also, I know I am going to get groans for this... but you really should start out by telling people to unplug the grinder first. If you have to explain how to install a disk in the grinder on the video, I don't think you should assume a viewer would have the sense to unplug it before opening it up.
I would have had to waste 20 minutes or more cleaning it up before I could have ever put it back together, it would have made for a long boring video. :-D
Quick Tip, When running a screw back into plastic start by rotating the screw counter-clockwise. As you do this feel for the screw to drop off the old threads and when you feel the slight click begin turning the screw clockwise. This runs the screw back down the old threads rather than cutting new. This matters when working with old plastic, especially automotive, that may crack or break from the stress of forming new threads, thus avoiding a repair.
I always do that on metal threads also... I find that it helps to get it started easier, and without cross-threading.
I do that on any thread, picked it up young and stuck with it. I've never striped a bolt, screw, thread in my entire life.
Beat me to that comment....something I always try to do.
I alway put the same screw in the same hole it came out of
Thanks Keith, I have changed many cords on my equipment. Why did I bother watching your video. I don't know, but I do enjoy reading the comments, always learn something from them and you. I guess Keith just goes good with morning coffee!
Same here
tool repair shops are going out of business or have already. Videos like this are helpful to others
who could not like this share , Keith saved a great tool ! Thumbs UP
A check of the motor brushes and a good cleaning of the outside of the housing would be good practice too.. ;-)
Second that
An AvE Experience! And it works when you put it back together.
Hey, you finally did something I've actually done!
I feel vaguely competent.
Yay!
Good video as usual.
Thanks.
Was the right time to give the whole thing a wipe with a bit of mineral spirits on a rag. Clean tools always preform better.
Hi Keith !
When the damage is where it was here you CAN just pull the cord further in ... OK, it gets a little shorter, and do what you did with the new cable - that's it !
In fact the damage you had is the result of coilling up the LONG cord ... thats why I just shorten up the cord to 2 feet - half a meter - then they can last a lot longer ... because you DON'T need to coil them up when not using the grinder !
Just a free idea !
I like to use that trick too. When I throw out anything with a cord, I cut off the cord and save them as long as the insulation is in good shape.
Keld lives! Haven’t seen you online in a month o’ Sundays as we say. When do we get to see some new video from the great white north...? :)
HI !
And thx for the nice word !
Ohhh, I'm just cleaning my bench right now ... and too working on getting stalled projects to fly again ;.))
While putting back the self-tapping screws it's good practice, to turn them to the left side to find the beginning of the old thread in plastic parts. You can feel it, when the screw snaps to it.
nice repair Keith!
Hi Keith it would be a good time to check your brushes now too.
When a cord shows that much wear, a new set of brushes would be a good idea as long as you had it open. When the brushes fail next week, you can share another video showing that project. :-)
BTW, when the brushes wore down in my Crapsman angle grinder and replacements were not available, I put an 1/8" aluminum shim between the spring and the brush for a little more life. From now on, my angle grinders will be major brands with replacement parts available. No, I will not waste my time or money on Horrible Freight landfill tools.
These tools are always cramped inside. Nice job.
Hey Keith I'll share a tip I learned from another TH-camr AVE. When you go to tighten the screws in plastic turn the screw counterclockwise until you feel it cam into the original cut thread, that way you don't recut a the thread and make a lose fit. Matt C.
Good idea to check the brushes and commutator while you got it in bits and to grease the gearbox. Des.
And Bob's your uncle...quick and easy repair.
Good for another 20 years.
Thank you Keith!
Nice lesson, good job. That is a interesting tool caddy maybe a short on that.
A little tip here. Whenever I strip something that could be a little tricky, like trying to remember which wire went where, I take a couple of shots with my mobile phone camera before dismantling. Can save a bit of head scratching later.
In the case where I am shooting video, I have been known to go back an look at my video footage! Don't think I haven't done that before - even looking at the raw unedited stuff that never made it to what you guys see!
Do you ever tin the copper wire leads when they are in a clamp/screw connection?
Whenever these cables die, i replace them with double shielded wire. Worth the extra price, and, the fact that i have to put a socket on the end, myself.
I've no idea on who makes them, but it's the kind of wire that has a steel weave inside. Doesn't do much if you lay on it with a grinder, but you can't cut in to them and they don't suffer flexing problems all that much.
Oldest installed, 12 years now, on my antique Bosch hand drill. Still feels pliable and even if it has a few nicks here and there it stands up to abuse.
Haven't figured out a proper socket yet, those seem to elude me, but the ones that have ceramic bases seem to be overall winners, IF, you ignore the fact that you can shatter them if you drop them. Otherwise, because they are ceramic, they don't give much in terms of care, about overheating, which happens, when you're grinder happy :)
I've used my airline to scatter screws and parts across the garage too... Piiiiissshhhh.... Oh bugger.
Hi Keith,
I like the tool holder/caddy that you have on your bench. Can you tell me the brand name?
Informative video. Only 2 wires, and it's fixed!
Frugality is a virtue. A man with a daughter about to go off to college has to save every penny he can. My youngest has at least 2 years to go.
These kind of tear downs are always interesting to me. I love that video, a bit like AvE without the cringy humor.
yes less jokes about anatomy , luckily
AvE started getting to me after awhile. I unsubbed and moved on. He talks about things he has no idea about, and people believe him because he "sounds" like he knows what he is talking about. I did like his humor and tomfoolery for the most part though.
Dewalt makes a tough tool, that D28110 model is the lighter duty ( 7 amp ) angle grinder but still a good work horse. The newer production DW402 is a beast ( 11 amp ) that takes on tough tasks that has a quick lever adjust guard and a lock nut that accepts a Allen key to secure the cutting/grinding wheel.
I’m a dewalt tool user and a friend is a Milwaukee user, we compare notes all the time and the only thing I can find that he has a advantage of is that Milwaukee replaces batteries under warranty for life and dewalt only offers a 1 year warranty on their batteries..
I have become a fan of DeWalt tools. This grinder has been around for a long time and has quite honestly seen some abuse. While it needed some repairs, it is still going strong!
Dewalt Aren't Bad . I Have That Same Angle Grinder Myself . Occasional Use . Its 5 Years old No Problems. Dewalt , Most People Don't Know is Owned by Black & Decker
THANK YOU...for sharing. Nice repair.
#1 simple repair
Hey Keith, have you tried those diamond metal cut off wheel yet. I like to use them because they dont shatter if they catch on what your cutting. At the worst they just bend a little and when that happens you just bend it back straight very easily. I've done a lot of heavy cutting with mine and it has held up pretty well. If I had used regular cutoff wheels for this ornamental fence job I just did I would have used lots of cutoff wheels but instead I've just use the one diamond one and it's still like new. I love it.
I have used a drop cord and cut the plug off. In fact that is what is on my Baldor bench grinder that I redone recently.
I've done several like that and it's a quick and cheap fix AND you can get a cord as long as you want!
When you want to tape up a cord, the self fusing Silicon tape (non-adhesive) is a better choice than electrical or duct tape - seals up, doesn't dry out and unwrap, and flexes nicely. The more I use it, the better I like it.
I am frugal, when HF has their 4.5" grinders on sale for $9.95 I drop $60 for 6 of them. Have them all over the shop. One quits, throw it onto the broke pile and get a new one out of the cabinet. Then when some lazy winter day comes I pull them apart, cut about 10" off the cords, reinstall the cord and we are back in business. If HF were to put a little better grade of cord those things would be indestructible and if you do smash one it is only $9.95.
Big'un44 the motors on the cheap HF grinders don't like the Florida heat. I've cooked a few of them.
It's always nice to have a supply of some ratty tools that you can abuse when necessary. I like to keep some old wrenches and screw drivers I can bang on with a hammer without feeling any guilt; yard sale/garage sale special finds.
I am down to just hobby work building stuff out of old scrap pipe that has been down hole in oil wells and has every crappy salt known to man eating on it. I have found my grandson and myself can run those HF grinders to the point we have to wear welding gloves to hold onto them. Only failure common is the wire breaking 6" out from the grinder where the rocking motion used to clean up pipe flexes the wire into. I did have makitas but when something heavy dropped on them I said enough of the expensive stuff. Have backed over one of the HF with my one ton winch truck and it survived. And the truck survived also... Hey, maybe HF will send me free grinding and cutting tools and consumables for this positive feed back. Yeah right!
I scrounge the bearings and bushings etc. out of my cast offs. Stuff I get from the share shed at the local recycler is a good source too.
Hi mate. I thought you would use the opportunity to give the poor thing a bit of a birthday.
Might been a good idea to check the brushes while you were in that far
Gonna run her till she busts and buy a new one.
What gauge wire did you use?
I have to do this on my Makita 5 inch angle grinder.... Cords are sure pricey though.
when i use flap wheels or thicker grinding wheels i stack a well worn flap wheel so the surface of the upper wheel is either even or slightly extended above the explosion guard. i.imgur.com/3dnjhEP.jpg the lower shaft plate has a centering shoulder on it.. as does the upper lock plate.. for those who look close. you may see the key screwed on under the handle.. so its always with the grinder..
New here amazing full support
First step - make sure power cord is unplugged
Terminology Keith:
the little yellow thing is a STRAIN RELIEF CLAMP
the black thing is a BEND RESTRICTOR.
Interesting to see that you only have moulded-on plugs. A lot of equipment here in the UK comes with moulded-on plugs, but we do have plugs that can be fitted and removed multiple times, so here we would normally just buy cable, and maybe a loose plug.
they do still sell loose plugs in the usa, but they are much bulkier and also not very strong, they have to be ridgid to support the pins, which tends to mean brittle plastic. the UK plug has more meat and thus easier to make them out of PP or modern strong plastics. and people make a terrible hash of wiring them, so better off with moulded cables! myself in the UK of course keep a stock of unbreakable plugs for workshop use, but as most tools come with moulded and good rubberised cables, its not as often as it used to be to replace.
Thanks for that. I still have some items wired for the old colour scheme, and I miss the 15 amp round pin plugs. I don't think I have any US standard 110v stuff so never had to replace that style of plug.
ahh the 15 amp round pin! they were some kind of bakelite, easily broken by todays standards, my last two plug failures were actually 80s rubber plugs breaking down, one the top came off pulling it out, leaving it live and exposed! modern plastics are both rigid and tough, never had an issued with moulded plugs at all, ive wondered how they connect them inside though.
Gordon McMillan - we do have loose plugs in the US and can just pick them up in any hardware store. They run the gamut from cheap plastic to heavy (commercial/industrial) rubber/metal combinations.
The molded plugs are faster+easier+cheaper for the manufacturer.
You can very easily buy cable in the US, and loose plugs too, but Keith had it delivered to his doorstep with the plug molded on
I do the same as James Dedmon, but additionally, I buy a cord with a GFCI unit on the plug end. Granted, they are expensive, but, so are funerals.
You make it look easy :-)
*_Well, hello there Keith. I enjoy the vids bud. Keep it up._*
Another great video !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Replacing wiring in portable power tools is some of the most tedious electrical work out there. Very little room, if any, for an extra bit of wire and I always hope the switch has screw connectors like the dewalt and not wire nuts.
Wow that is one FILTHY grinder!
What about tinning those wires?
Keith goes all AvE wa!!!
I was thinking more of Hand Tool Rescue.
Keith, you shoud have used some brass hoses at the end of the pigtale like the original. Don't screw copper directly. Copper is like water, it floats.
I like your videos.
Alfred Neumann Agree with you, I was surprised to see the wires just stuck under the screws.
While I agree ferrules are the best way to terminate stranded wires it is simply not correct that copper flows. You might be thinking of tin or solder, which is why you never tin wires before putting them in a clamp terminal.
Many terminals are approved for stranded wire without ferrules, and the use of ferrules is far less common in the US and UK than it is for example in central Europe (and even here it's a fairly recent trend).
Ferrules must be crimped properly to do their job (gas tight), and I consider twisting the wires, if well done, an acceptable practice in a pinch.
@stefan
I'm an electrotechnican since nearly 40 years. Believe me, copper floats. And tin or solder has not to be in a screw-connection. Never. Fine wire has to be finalized with a brass or similar metal. Like the original connection, which Keith opened. And yes, the crimping hast to be proper. Two times i had detected improper connections in a house. In both cases it was very short to a fire. In both cases it was (like you said) stranded wires under screws. The screws were not more tight enough. The Copper had floated.
Sorry for my english, it's not my motherlanguage. Regards from Germany.
Copper doesn't flow significantly under pressure, otherwise every screw connection (even on solid core wire) would flow and loosen up. The ferrule would not make a difference, since the clamp pressure acts through the ferrule on the copper inside, the wall of the ferrule is too thin to resist the clamping force (just take a wire with a ferrule out of a screw clamp and look at the deformation).
The actual purpose of the ferrule is twofold, it gathers the individual strands together so none can escape sideways (and reduce current carrying capacity as well as posing a safety hazard). The second purpose is to prevent corrosion of the thin strands (and thus an increase in resistance), which is why you need to make a gas tight crimp on a ferrule.
Solder has been used in the past sometimes to tin stranded wire ends, even in Germany, and it was a very bad idea. Every single connection like that I have encountered was totally loose and most showed signs of overheating or had no contact at all.
You can easily prove that solder cold flows by winding a piece of solder wire around your finger into a small coil and hanging it up by the end. After a short time you can observe that the coil has stretched out a lot, simply by cold flowing from it's own weight.
If you do the same experiment with copper you can observe no such cold flow, (just the opposite, it actually work hardens).
We can continue this in German if you prefer.
Die Amis verwenden keine Adernendhülsen, kannst mir glauben. ;-)
Alfred Neumann ANY metal can flow, but copper does not flow in any significant way, it is perfectly OK to mount stranded wire without a ferrule. Ferrules are mostly used in production settings, where wires are mounted by machine, or at great speed manually, ferrules keeps strands together, but does little more then that. I have been an electrician for 36 years, and I have NEVER seen a screw terminal that was not rated for stranded wire ! OR a combination of solid AND stranded wire. Many companies mandate ferrules on their products, but strength is not the reason. If a screw connection fails, it is NOT because of the wire being stranded, it is because it was not torqued correctly, or the connection is the wrong size for the wire, a 1,5 mm wire in a 32 mm DIN rail terminal WILL fail.
hi keith sorry not been on lately but i am stuck in bed ill
Love the channel Keith but can't stand when people use the wrench to torque the grinding wheel! Then you got to go find the darn wrench when it's time to switch the wheel out... I have never used the wrench in my life and never had one come lose cause it gets tighter when you use it.
and when they really crank on it you need to use a pipe on the wrench to get it loose
Yep tighten them on with the wrench is a surefire way to strip out the hold pin when you take the wheel back off.
You are supposed to use a wire ferrule at the end of the cables. :-) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_wire_ferrule
I generally replace my cords with more supple and longer cords. I can usually buy a nice 2 carrier 15 ft. extension cord for less than buying 15 ft of similar cord and a separate plug OR a shorter "replacement" cord with the bare wires on one end (as shown in this video). Also, I know I am going to get groans for this... but you really should start out by telling people to unplug the grinder first. If you have to explain how to install a disk in the grinder on the video, I don't think you should assume a viewer would have the sense to unplug it before opening it up.
oh man did you not clean that out
Shop maintenance. You can tell the competentcy of the person by the shape of their tools.
Adding a 3 prong grounded cord wasn't an option?
Not necessary, as the tool is "double insulated". The plastic housing does more than bump profits up.
Would you screw that third wire into the plasic housing as an ESD?
I would have had to waste 20 minutes or more cleaning it up before I could have ever put it back together, it would have made for a long boring video. :-D
Why aren't you sleeping? Its 4am!!
A cut-off whe
Cut off disk is upside down :)
does that mean it will put metal back on?
Like SO. Not "like such" And I figured you were educated
you forgot a period at the end of your comment genius