I actually just got a v4 talion n noticed the extra shimming.huge kuddos to arrma for listening.makes you feel better bout running right out of the box if you do so with out changing anything.also loving loving loving the v4 motor mount setup
Great video I'm new to the kraton and I broke my pin to the output shaft and was needing ro replace that and shim the diffs and this helped me out alot I just ordered those shims thanks for you time.
Thank you very much 👏 yesterday I was changing diff oils on my kraton v4 and your video came in very handy. for now i left all the shims like the original ... the next time i change oils i do just like you. keep making good videos 🍻
Marko K Thanks for watching and the kind comments 🙏much appreciated. Yeah the shimming helps, but if you are not terribly hard on the rig you should be just fine. Bash on 😎😎
@@lridebashitrc9422 It does trust me I just got into the hobby a few months ago and I started with a 2wd slash then went to a notorious and waiting on an infraction to come in I have struggled to find in depth videos on things that are always suggested on the forums like this for instance theirs really only richs video that talks about shimming the diffs but I think this will end up being the go to video for new comers. Btw I found you by one of you bashing videos great stuff keep it up
I've been fighting with the newer arrma metal diff cups (part# ARA220050) in my outcast. I figured going with the arrma aluminum/steel cups would kind of help bulletproof the diffs, but it has ended up just being a total pain. After installing how the diagram shows, you can't fit any shims in the ring gear side of the diff to close up the gear mesh between the ring/pinion. With the plastic cups you typically end up with at least one, usually 2 outside the ring gear side bearing to tighten the mesh. I figured arrma knew what they were doing... the diff lasted me 1 pack before the ring/pinion (which were brand new, including all the bearings) started hopping teeth. As it turns out, with the diff built how it's supposed to be ends up 1mm wider than the plastic cup when you measure from the outside race of the bearings. That extra 1mm eats up all the free space to tighten up mesh. So, as a last ditch effort, I've removed the gasket on the cap end of the arrma diff cup and sealed it with rtv. This gave me back .6mm of room to shim and now I can fit 1 shim outside the ring gear bearing and 1 shim behind the pinion. I haven't run it yet, planning on seeing how it does tomorrow. Not only did it make it a pain to try and get good gear mesh on the front/rear diffs, it also makes the center diff too long and when you tighten down the motor mount/diff front mount and motor mount cap, it binds the bearings. Not a lot, but you can feel it. I have a feeling my center diff bearings won't last long, tomorrow will be the first run with the alloy cup in the center as well. Just wanted to give you or anyone else that reads this a heads up if you wanted to try those cups...
Bryan L olds97_lss Dude that sounds like a huge pain in the azz. I have been running HR diff cups and haven’t experienced any problems with fitment and typically do the same shim setup as documented above. Hopefully you can get it figured out.
@@lridebashitrc9422 Yeah, if I had bought them recently, I'd have sent 2 of them back, but I bought all 3 at least 2 months ago and have had them on hand for when one of my diffs died, which finally happened due to blowing out a bearing.
Great info and presentation! I just ordered everything in your vid. I'm a complete newb and dont even know where to being with alot of stuff in this hobby but your vid told me exactly what I needed to know! Thanx bro much appreciated 🙂👌
@@lridebashitrc9422 I can’t bash yet I’m waiting on a new charger jeez lol the gearbox did seem loud and notchy to me so I’ve added the shims for now slowly getting to know the car it makes the granite look tiny!
Good video, definitely the clearest best one I've seen on rebuilding diffs I'm bout to get a kraton prolly v3 that's the one im bidding on. What oil you recommend in diffs and any idea were to find it. Bout everywhere is out of stock
Thanks for watching and the question. The diff fluids depend a bit on the electronics. For the stock electronics I am running 50k front, 100k center, 20k rear, however for stronger electronics I’m running 60k front, 500k center, and 30k rear. I would check Amain or various suppliers on eBay not sure why things are back ordered. Hope that helps. Bash on 😎😎
Two questions, did you add two shim on each side of the spider gears? Totaling eight shims inside the diff. I couldn’t tell. Typically I see people adding two to just one side and leaving one on the other. My second question, Have you ever experienced this? After putting everything together and tightening the four screws, you find that everything inside is just too tight and there’s binding. This happened to me and after removing the two bigger mugen seiki Shims behind the planetary gears And going back to the smaller stock ones, it resolved the issue. Just curious if you’ve experienced this?
Thanks for watching much appreciated. Yes I did add two shims for a total of eight. I have not experienced it binding was long as you stick to the config I laid out it shouldn't be a problem. Bash on😎😎
I've had the same issue. I replaced the gasket and that sorted it and was able to keep the new shims in. I guess it's best to replace the gasket after a few rebuilds anyway
@@yaffajaff interesting thought as I had the same issue with my first v3 Kraton rebuild. It's a new truck though but a new Gasket might create a bit more space than reusing the stock one... I reused and had to remove one planitary shim to get it to not bind
Thanks for the comments I made this video sometime ago. I’d have to go back and look, but yes the smaller shim is for the input gear. Most of my rigs I’ve gone to the exb diffs now, but if you are running the rtr this was the best config I was able to do. Bash on 😎😎
Thanks for watching and the kind comments. Yeah the site is saying they are out of stock probably due to the virus. Either way the sizes are provided in the description. BSR Berserker 1/8 Electric Truggy - Shim 5x8x0.2mm (10pcs) 940582 and BSR Berserker 1/8 Electric Truggy - Shim 8x12x0.3mm (10pcs) 940813. As you can see the sizes are listed. If you find some other shims I’d be curious to hear what you found. Bash on 😎😎
From what I'm hearing (on the bezerker/sabertooth group pages as I owned 2 sabers before getting my arrma) it sou ds like hobbyking has discontinued the basher line up. Sucks owning these already parts hungry trucks, but I'm finding out multiple parts are useable between the 2 companys. So now I'm using all my factory arrma parts as "upgrades" for my sabers!
g.b jumps & bashing Thanks for watching and the kind comments much appreciated 🙏🙏. Can’t go wrong with those shins. The right price for sure. Bash on 😎😎
Good tutorial man! I've tried a few shims and they seem to help well. Altho I have been getting an issue the past 3-4 diffs where I'm actually breaking the 2.5mm pins that hold the out drives in the cups/sun gears... Have you ran into this issue or know of a fix for it?
1dickycat Thanks for watching and the comments. I have broken pins they only thing that has seem to help is making the pins out of tools that are the same diameter. Bash on 😎😎
@@lridebashitrc9422 That seems to be what I'm finding too. I've saw one guy used 2.5mm tool steel rod and just cut his own, maybe I'll give that a go. That's for the quick reply too! Dont get that with a lot of youtubers
@@lridebashitrc9422 yup i Always clean the diffs completely with brake cleaner, then find out where the most play is then just add Shims To them gears. I love the big planetary gear shims, I feel like the stock shims that come on it is the main reason they break, because it's not covering the full bottom surface of the gear.. allowing the gear to flex... Also on the satellite gears if you do 1-2 1-2 on Shims It puts uneven pressure on the gears making uneven wear. I found that adding two Shims under the planetary gears pushes even pressure against the satellite gears plus takes out the play on the outdrives. But its like u said all diffs ain't the same. Bash on man 🤟
How well has this build held up since it was done? Specifically the satellite gears, because I would think you would throw off the mesh of half of the set of gears and would create a grinding effect, because it's not properly square from gear to gear for the satellite gears.
@@lridebashitrc9422 no problem great videos, I just recently got my first Arrma and want to set it up to be ready to last a long time. It's a v4 and I have already ordered new gaskets and bearings and shims for everything I'm just hoping it comes together nicely and lasts
crezy 91 Welcome to the club and get ready to upgrade. Yeah I am running the 8s system in my 1/8 scale system and I am having no problems with the diffs.
@@lridebashitrc9422 do you have videos of the 8s running i was just thinking about that much power and if someone has done it. What sort of radio are you using? Im using a traxxas tsm and tqi with the bluetooth module its actually had the car running well it was pretty tricky to set it up. The receiver has to have latest software and then i matched a drive ratio and strangely the traxxas udr is extremely close and actually runs the same quality of power. Now i can use my slash and notorious on one remote. I plan to buy another receiver for my team associated tc3 for road use it has a 4pole hobbywing and its quick. So far its been awesome ive changed the bumper and havent took it higher than 30ft yet but i have alot of upgrades planed. its well worth it. ive seen alot of crazy landing and stunts its wicked haha
crezy 91 I installed the Kraton 8s spectrum ESC and 1250kv into my 1/8 scale V4 Kraton. Pretty much all of my newer videos of the V4 are with the 8s system. It has incredibly power with that system in and so far It’s holding up well and I’ve just been running it on 6s. I got right of the Spectrum radio and am running the TTX 300 tactic or a fly sky. Watch my latest video I’ve got some crazy sends with the V4.
Nice one brother 👍 I've been looking for shims for the main input gear and you Sir have just given me the part number 😁👍 what a gentleman! They were the only shims I couldn't find. I'm going through input gears and main diff gears so quick its not funny anymore. I have upgraded GPM #45 hardened steel input gears and main diff gears in the post. The input gear shimmed up should help make them last? We live in hope 🤣 Why arrma can't make their diffs solid enough to cope with the power? If the diffs were covered under warranty I bet they'd make more effort to get them right. Again. Thanks for taking the time to make this video 🙂
Thanks for watching and the comments. Completely understand the question and I asked something similar in the beginning. But as I got into the hobby and my skills improve and my expectations for the rigs changed. Eventually you determine sometimes through trial and error that you need to shim and tune your diffs to increase durability and performance.
Haris Bennington The biggest difference is durability and performance so yes depending on what you do it can make the rig pull harder off the line or encourage more power to the rear wheels.
@@harisbennington4058 shims make gears mesh up better, therefore making them have tighter tolerances an less slippage to keep you from damaging the gears.
I actually just got a v4 talion n noticed the extra shimming.huge kuddos to arrma for listening.makes you feel better bout running right out of the box if you do so with out changing anything.also loving loving loving the v4 motor mount setup
Great video I'm new to the kraton and I broke my pin to the output shaft and was needing ro replace that and shim the diffs and this helped me out alot I just ordered those shims thanks for you time.
Thanks for watching and for the kind comments. Glad it helped you the shimming can’t be tough to know. Bash on 😎😎
Thank you very much 👏 yesterday I was changing diff oils on my kraton v4 and your video came in very handy. for now i left all the shims like the original ... the next time i change oils i do just like you. keep making good videos 🍻
Marko K Thanks for watching and the kind comments 🙏much appreciated. Yeah the shimming helps, but if you are not terribly hard on the rig you should be just fine. Bash on 😎😎
Great bench video brother. Always appreciate and enjoy watching this side of the Hobby. Keep em coming brother
Thanks for watching and just hadn’t seen one on it.
Great in depth information and rebuild tutorial!
2GunZBlaZing Xx_MATONTI_xX Thanks I struggled in the beginning trying to find info about the hobby. Hope it helps. Thx for watching.
@@lridebashitrc9422 It does trust me I just got into the hobby a few months ago and I started with a 2wd slash then went to a notorious and waiting on an infraction to come in I have struggled to find in depth videos on things that are always suggested on the forums like this for instance theirs really only richs video that talks about shimming the diffs but I think this will end up being the go to video for new comers. Btw I found you by one of you bashing videos great stuff keep it up
2GunZBlaZing Xx_MATONTI_xX Thanks I am really enjoying it. Bash on the Notorious is a beast 😎😎
Nice video but at 3:15 if you didn't have the pin in why didn't you just pull the cup out instead of fighting with the gear?
Thanks for watching and the comments much appreciated.
Thanks I just found some. Nittrohobbies, and Power hobby sells them. 5x8x0.3mm
I've been fighting with the newer arrma metal diff cups (part# ARA220050) in my outcast. I figured going with the arrma aluminum/steel cups would kind of help bulletproof the diffs, but it has ended up just being a total pain. After installing how the diagram shows, you can't fit any shims in the ring gear side of the diff to close up the gear mesh between the ring/pinion. With the plastic cups you typically end up with at least one, usually 2 outside the ring gear side bearing to tighten the mesh. I figured arrma knew what they were doing... the diff lasted me 1 pack before the ring/pinion (which were brand new, including all the bearings) started hopping teeth. As it turns out, with the diff built how it's supposed to be ends up 1mm wider than the plastic cup when you measure from the outside race of the bearings. That extra 1mm eats up all the free space to tighten up mesh. So, as a last ditch effort, I've removed the gasket on the cap end of the arrma diff cup and sealed it with rtv. This gave me back .6mm of room to shim and now I can fit 1 shim outside the ring gear bearing and 1 shim behind the pinion. I haven't run it yet, planning on seeing how it does tomorrow.
Not only did it make it a pain to try and get good gear mesh on the front/rear diffs, it also makes the center diff too long and when you tighten down the motor mount/diff front mount and motor mount cap, it binds the bearings. Not a lot, but you can feel it. I have a feeling my center diff bearings won't last long, tomorrow will be the first run with the alloy cup in the center as well.
Just wanted to give you or anyone else that reads this a heads up if you wanted to try those cups...
Bryan L olds97_lss Dude that sounds like a huge pain in the azz. I have been running HR diff cups and haven’t experienced any problems with fitment and typically do the same shim setup as documented above. Hopefully you can get it figured out.
@@lridebashitrc9422 Yeah, if I had bought them recently, I'd have sent 2 of them back, but I bought all 3 at least 2 months ago and have had them on hand for when one of my diffs died, which finally happened due to blowing out a bearing.
I left a thumbs up, I’ve shimmed mine, it’s so much smoother now
RC Maxx Bash Thanks for watching and yeah I can tell a big difference as well. Bash on 😎😎
They are out of stock now. But i need those shims asap! Does anyone know about another place where I can get these from?
@@Marc_s181 I found both the mugen and kyosho on ebay
Great video thanks for taking the time to inform us . Arrma tough 🦾🦾✅
Great info and presentation! I just ordered everything in your vid. I'm a complete newb and dont even know where to being with alot of stuff in this hobby but your vid told me exactly what I needed to know! Thanx bro much appreciated 🙂👌
Thanks for watching and the kind comments. Much appreciated🙏. That is exactly why I made the vid. Bash on 😎😎
I’m a bit late to the game iv just got a 6s krayton....it’s awesome! Good videos👍🏻💪🏻😀
Thanks for watching the comments and sub. Much appreciated. The Kraton 6s is a awesome rig. Bash on 😎😎
@@lridebashitrc9422 I can’t bash yet I’m waiting on a new charger jeez lol the gearbox did seem loud and notchy to me so I’ve added the shims for now slowly getting to know the car it makes the granite look tiny!
Good video, definitely the clearest best one I've seen on rebuilding diffs I'm bout to get a kraton prolly v3 that's the one im bidding on. What oil you recommend in diffs and any idea were to find it. Bout everywhere is out of stock
Thanks for watching and the question. The diff fluids depend a bit on the electronics. For the stock electronics I am running 50k front, 100k center, 20k rear, however for stronger electronics I’m running 60k front, 500k center, and 30k rear. I would check Amain or various suppliers on eBay not sure why things are back ordered. Hope that helps. Bash on 😎😎
Two questions, did you add two shim on each side of the spider gears? Totaling eight shims inside the diff. I couldn’t tell. Typically I see people adding two to just one side and leaving one on the other.
My second question, Have you ever experienced this? After putting everything together and tightening the four screws, you find that everything inside is just too tight and there’s binding. This happened to me and after removing the two bigger mugen seiki Shims behind the planetary gears And going back to the smaller stock ones, it resolved the issue. Just curious if you’ve experienced this?
Thanks for watching much appreciated. Yes I did add two shims for a total of eight. I have not experienced it binding was long as you stick to the config I laid out it shouldn't be a problem. Bash on😎😎
I've had the same issue. I replaced the gasket and that sorted it and was able to keep the new shims in. I guess it's best to replace the gasket after a few rebuilds anyway
@@yaffajaff interesting thought as I had the same issue with my first v3 Kraton rebuild. It's a new truck though but a new Gasket might create a bit more space than reusing the stock one... I reused and had to remove one planitary shim to get it to not bind
Not sure if you'll see this but I am guessing the 5x8x0.2mm shims are for the input gear?
Thanks for the comments I made this video sometime ago. I’d have to go back and look, but yes the smaller shim is for the input gear. Most of my rigs I’ve gone to the exb diffs now, but if you are running the rtr this was the best config I was able to do. Bash on 😎😎
@@lridebashitrc9422 thanks. I'm running all Mugen internals. It's a custom build from scratch.
Can't find those basher input gear shims, do know the measurement then maybe I can find them from another brand. Thanks
Thanks for watching and the kind comments. Yeah the site is saying they are out of stock probably due to the virus. Either way the sizes are provided in the description. BSR Berserker 1/8 Electric Truggy - Shim 5x8x0.2mm (10pcs) 940582 and BSR Berserker 1/8 Electric Truggy - Shim 8x12x0.3mm (10pcs) 940813. As you can see the sizes are listed. If you find some other shims I’d be curious to hear what you found. Bash on 😎😎
From what I'm hearing (on the bezerker/sabertooth group pages as I owned 2 sabers before getting my arrma) it sou ds like hobbyking has discontinued the basher line up. Sucks owning these already parts hungry trucks, but I'm finding out multiple parts are useable between the 2 companys. So now I'm using all my factory arrma parts as "upgrades" for my sabers!
Awesome job brother,,, full watch brother,,, keep it up bro
11CHARLIE RC Thanks brother🙏yeah just didn't see much out there on diff shiming.
@@lridebashitrc9422 saved this video for the future ✌🙏🤙👍
Great bro...i alsow use in this basher shims
Perfect video👑
g.b jumps & bashing Thanks for watching and the kind comments much appreciated 🙏🙏. Can’t go wrong with those shins. The right price for sure. Bash on 😎😎
What size are the "Basher" shims? Google doesn't know what they are LOL
Searched both part numbers
Edit: they have to be 8mm ID
Are you using the same shims for the planetary as your satellite shims? What’s the part number?
No the shims are different. All the part numbers are included in the video. Hope it helps. Bash on 😎😎
Good tutorial man! I've tried a few shims and they seem to help well. Altho I have been getting an issue the past 3-4 diffs where I'm actually breaking the 2.5mm pins that hold the out drives in the cups/sun gears... Have you ran into this issue or know of a fix for it?
1dickycat Thanks for watching and the comments. I have broken pins they only thing that has seem to help is making the pins out of tools that are the same diameter. Bash on 😎😎
@@lridebashitrc9422 That seems to be what I'm finding too. I've saw one guy used 2.5mm tool steel rod and just cut his own, maybe I'll give that a go. That's for the quick reply too! Dont get that with a lot of youtubers
Thanks for the kind comments
I added two of the planetary gear shims to the internal cup side, because that side had more play than the gear side. Seems to work out pretty well.
Yeah not every rig is the same. But shimming has extended the life of my diffs. Thanks for watching and the comments. Bash on 😎😎
@@lridebashitrc9422 yup i Always clean the diffs completely with brake cleaner, then find out where the most play is then just add Shims To them gears. I love the big planetary gear shims, I feel like the stock shims that come on it is the main reason they break, because it's not covering the full bottom surface of the gear.. allowing the gear to flex... Also on the satellite gears if you do 1-2 1-2 on Shims It puts uneven pressure on the gears making uneven wear. I found that adding two Shims under the planetary gears pushes even pressure against the satellite gears plus takes out the play on the outdrives. But its like u said all diffs ain't the same. Bash on man 🤟
How well has this build held up since it was done? Specifically the satellite gears, because I would think you would throw off the mesh of half of the set of gears and would create a grinding effect, because it's not properly square from gear to gear for the satellite gears.
crezy 91 thanks for watching and yes the gears have held up really well. The mesh is actually really good.
@@lridebashitrc9422 no problem great videos, I just recently got my first Arrma and want to set it up to be ready to last a long time. It's a v4 and I have already ordered new gaskets and bearings and shims for everything I'm just hoping it comes together nicely and lasts
crezy 91 Welcome to the club and get ready to upgrade. Yeah I am running the 8s system in my 1/8 scale system and I am having no problems with the diffs.
@@lridebashitrc9422 do you have videos of the 8s running i was just thinking about that much power and if someone has done it. What sort of radio are you using? Im using a traxxas tsm and tqi with the bluetooth module its actually had the car running well it was pretty tricky to set it up. The receiver has to have latest software and then i matched a drive ratio and strangely the traxxas udr is extremely close and actually runs the same quality of power. Now i can use my slash and notorious on one remote. I plan to buy another receiver for my team associated tc3 for road use it has a 4pole hobbywing and its quick.
So far its been awesome ive changed the bumper and havent took it higher than 30ft yet but i have alot of upgrades planed. its well worth it. ive seen alot of crazy landing and stunts its wicked haha
crezy 91 I installed the Kraton 8s spectrum ESC and 1250kv into my 1/8 scale V4 Kraton. Pretty much all of my newer videos of the V4 are with the 8s system. It has incredibly power with that system in and so far It’s holding up well and I’ve just been running it on 6s. I got right of the Spectrum radio and am running the TTX 300 tactic or a fly sky. Watch my latest video I’ve got some crazy sends with the V4.
Nice one brother 👍
I've been looking for shims for the main input gear and you Sir have just given me the part number 😁👍 what a gentleman! They were the only shims I couldn't find.
I'm going through input gears and main diff gears so quick its not funny anymore.
I have upgraded GPM #45 hardened steel input gears and main diff gears in the post. The input gear shimmed up should help make them last?
We live in hope 🤣
Why arrma can't make their diffs solid enough to cope with the power? If the diffs were covered under warranty I bet they'd make more effort to get them right.
Again. Thanks for taking the time to make this video 🙂
Thanks for watching🙏 and I'm glad it could help.
FYI Arrma diffs are covered under warranty 🦾🦾
Dave H arrma diffs are covered by a warranty
@@jaguarsrcfamily101 it's easier and much less hassle to buy new than claim.
Hey man, I’m new to this, why do you want to shim the diffs ?
Thanks for watching and the comments. Completely understand the question and I asked something similar in the beginning. But as I got into the hobby and my skills improve and my expectations for the rigs changed. Eventually you determine sometimes through trial and error that you need to shim and tune your diffs to increase durability and performance.
Lride Bash It RC oh ok but what benefit does shimming give to the truck, e.g does it accelerate better
Haris Bennington The biggest difference is durability and performance so yes depending on what you do it can make the rig pull harder off the line or encourage more power to the rear wheels.
@@harisbennington4058 shims make gears mesh up better, therefore making them have tighter tolerances an less slippage to keep you from damaging the gears.
F'n Ay😎