Beginner's guide to hand painting your first kit (Part 2: Building the kit)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2019
- Hi there!! Time to put this kit together. A few tips about sanding, re-scribing and puttying. Also, how to use extra thin cement. Hope you like it :)
1. Daily Beetle by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
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2. Cold Funk - Funkorama by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
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3. Whatdafunk by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
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4. Zombie Rock by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
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5. Skinny Leonard by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
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Your beginners guides have been the easiest to follow along with, thank you.
Thanks mate :)
I can’t thank you enough, I am a returning modeller and you have explained and shown everything I need to do a good job. Well done my friend and much appreciated 👍
Same here. This guy's videos are the best I've seen. 👍
Deepening existing panel lines before sanding is such a great idea that I will definitely have a go at. I nearly always have trouble restoring the lines once sanded because my scriber tends to drift when creating new ones, great video, thanks
Thank you so much. I am learning so much, and will use the videos as a reference guide
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching Frits :)
The tip about deepening the panel lines is great. For me, it was one of those smack-the-forehead moments followed by, "Why didn't I think of that?" Great series. :)
Agreed! You should claim the term 'prescribing' panel lines! :)
Thank you Patrick, its nice to know that even a seasoned hand like you took time to watch this. Thanks again.
That shows how awesome this series is! (1,000 Likes) (4 Dislikes) Awesome!!!😂
Thanks for taking the time to make the videos! I'm enjoy learning new tips and techniques for modeling. I'm getting back into modeling again after being away for the past 30 years or so.
Keep on making these videos!
Best wishes!!
Man, I just got into model painting and I love it! Your videos have been so easy to follow and there are so many great pointers. Thanks for this series!! Super helpful for us brush painters!
Great gituar sound in the background🤘
Another great job
That really was, “Back in black”!
Another great video full of useful information. Thank you.
wow awesome job im sure the new ones will be easy to fallow this keep them coming
Wow this was really nice.
Good work 🙂
Loving it!!!!!!!
thanks stanley
Very well done video.
Awesome video in the hand painting series ..... truly helpful for beginners like me :) ..... a big thumbsup 👌👍😊
Thanks you AAK, very kind of you :)
Great job, Dude!
Thank you Uncle Bob :)
I’ve enjoyed your series on hand painting your kits .im building a airfix kit the Boeing 314 it’s clipper plane all silver paint job do I paint it all black first then paint it silver ,I saw you do it on the engine of the thunder bolt ,was wondering if should do it
very good tutorial !
Thanks mate :)
Nice job!
Thanks buddy :)
Like, I suspect, many others, I've come back to modelling via lockdown, and I'm really enjoying these videos. But a couple of questions. 1 - How do you decide which parts to paint before assembling the kit, and which to leave painting until the kit's built? And 2 - when you put the glue along the seams I get that most of goes into the seam but do you not also get a residue left on the surface, and, if so, how do you clean off?
Hey there...first of all, thank for watching the videos, I am glad you liked them. Now to answer your questions best I can. 1. Access is the key factor when deciding what to paint beforehand. Parts that become hard to reach or hard to reach properly after being glued in place, I usually paint beforehand. Another thing I keep in mind is the colour of the part. Say there is a large green part and I have to glue a smaller brown or a black part on it. I would rather paint the smaller part separately and glue it on rather than glue it on and then try and paint it cleanly. A lot of this will come with experience and your own style of making kits. 2. The glue I use, in fact most modellers use these days, is a special plastic glue. The part that does not go inside the joint simply evaporates. There is hardly any residue, in fact none if the glue is applied correctly, to deal with. I usually use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, but there are similar products from other manufacturers as well. Hope that helps :) Good luck with the build.
Any concerns with using the Tamiya glue to attach already painted surfaces like with the cockpit assembly? Wondering if there’s a reason you went with the Revell glue for that part and not the Tamiya for the full assembly. Absolutely loving these videos, I see some binge watching in my future! LOL
Hey Sameer. There is always some danger of damaging the paint job when using thin cement on already painted parts. The way Tamiya, and similar cements, work is that they melt the plastic and then form a new bond. This is fine if the parts are not painted, but when painted the melting part often distorts the layer of paint. This is why most modellers prefer using tradition Revell type cement or super glue.
Nasty thing happened to me :-/ Started to paint a plane with thin watered down Model Colors from Vallejo, 3 layers were enough for nice coverage...then I masked it with tamiya tape, painted adjacent area but whoa, when I removed the tape it took all the masked color with it away! Im scared now to repair this by masking the 2nd color
Ouch! I know the feeling. Has happened to all of us. The one thing I can suggest is that next time you use tape, first make it less tacky or sticky by sticking it to the table top and removing it. This reduces the amount of glue on the tape and hopefully prevent any future disasters. Also, let the paint dry overnight before masking it and be very careful while removing the masking tape. And lastly, say a little prayer before removing the tape :)
Scale Modelling Madness Thanks for the advise :-) it actually was crossing my mind, that the tape had quite strong glue on itself. Also truth is, I did it about 3 hours after paint, so maybe it was not real dry, even though for vallejo acrylics it was usually dry to touch after 3 hours
What grit is the sanding stick?
Question: when painting the engine with aluminum do you do a wash or water down paint?
stephicohu he paints it so I would say watered down paint/ thinned paint.
How strong is that tamiya cement? Bits that I've used the blue revell glue on before, such as pylons and bombs have dropped off over time.
i use Tamiya thin cement..Never had a problem
The best cement on the market is Mr. Cement S (imo). Mr cement deluxe is very good too and cheaper because it's a bit thicker but still works very well
Hi, what is the brand or modle of the photo etch saw? I can't quite catch it. Thanks
Don't worry got it now Hasegawa TP-3
Why do you not prime it? That black paint in the engine is just beading off the plastic. Wouldn't a spray prime make the whole job easier? Like war hammer miniatures
Second vid and I’m now starting to get anxiety… 😱
Mom
The title of this article is painting, not assembly. Thumbs down.