It's a common cleaning product found here in the UK which can be used to thin down enamel paints. It goes by other names in other countries. I found the below information which might be more helpful if you aren't in the UK: From Wikipedia: White spirit (AU, UK & Ireland) or mineral spirits (US, Canada), also known as mineral turpentine (AU/NZ), turpentine substitute, and petroleum spirits, is a petroleum-derived clear liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting.
If you use enamel colours to paint the model, once dry, you can the use an acrylic varnish and once that is dry, apply the enamel washes, as the acrylic varnish will act as a barrier protecting the Enamel paint underneath. An alternate method is to add the panel lines using a fine nibbed drawing pen, the type you can get from the Works.
Gary, do you mean a sort of tech drawing pen....? Just going to start a build of the Revell 1:600 scale T.O.S Enterprise, hundreds of panel lines on saucer section alone! Haven't built plastic kits in 45 Years!! Didn't do that level of detail then, in fact some didn't get paint at all! Lol!
I'm sorry, I've re-read comments and re watched video. I'm new to this and still confused. I've just finished painting my 1st plane with testors enamels. I was going to use gloss acrylic clear coat to apply the decals over. I planned on adding weathering, smoke stains then, and finishing with a matte acrylic coat to seal it all up. Is that correct? Or should I be using an enamel clear coat over my enamel paint? I got confused just writing this! But thanks for any help.
You’re one of my favourite youtubers, you’re honest, you get to the point and you’re helpful. Plus you’re entertaining as provide great content! Keep it up bro! :)
Just finished building the Airfix 1/72 A6M2 and took the plunge with an enamel wash (went dark brown) after watching this tutorial a few times. it's an absolute game-changer. Great work, Matt!
I’ve been building models since 1970...but I’m a old DOG... but I can learn new tricks...I buy water color kits for children... use them for washes...lay them down heavy and use Q tips to clean... excellent video... VERY INFORMATIVE GREAT JOB... Chris from Ohio...Sept 24th 2020
@@THROTTLEPOWER Yeah, I will propably try it, the last layer of paint is drying right now, but I'm a little concerned I covered up most of the details, since it's my first kit and I kinda just getting the feel of it so it did not turn out as good as I planned, hope i'll have something left to highlight in the end. If not, I think I'm just gonna let it be like that and move on to the next one.
Great tutorial Matt! Altough i prefer oil washes just because they can easily be wiped out without any thinner and oil paints can be used as exhaust stains too and i cant wait for your next build video because the last one with churchill was freaking amazing and enjoyable . ( my personal opinion ofc )
@@ModelMinutes definitely try them. You can manipulate them as you wish with very realistic result and you don't need to buy any expensive oil paints. I am working now with 2 € oil paints and they are working fine for me!
Yes, there are lots of different ways of doing this kind of thing, I was trying to keep it simple for beginners. If you already know about washes then this video isn’t really going to be anything new
I make nearly all my own washes etc...one great example of home made is pigments...I use school poster paint powdered versions...theres hundreds of colours and water based so easy to mix and clean off and once laquered etc they are permanent...500mg of powder paint less than 50p
Very good tutorial. Thanks. One question: Should we apply a coat of matt or gloss finish before applying the wash; if so, what is the recommended base of the coat (acryllic or enamel)?
A gloss varnish will help your wash flow better. It should be the opposite of whatever the wash is (so for enamel wash I would use a gloss acrylic coat as the base)
Nice video, any tips on storing homemade wash, im brand new to this hobby, with plenty of disposable income but i love the idea of doing a lot by scratch.
Excellent advice and video. I too think that some shop bought products are very expensive. Will be following your instructions and making my own. I build both plastic and wood models. Would it work on wood in your opinion?.
Glad it was helpful! Not sure about wood - it's quite porous isn't it? I think the wood would "drink" up the wash unless the wood was properly sealed - worth a go though
Here where I live I use Bitumen of Judea as a wash. It is cheap and easy diluted. And also I can use it for weathering as well, like war tanks and such.
Great trick and good result for a cost-effective solution, thanks for sharing this! by the way, watching some of your builds I've realized that you never use an airbrush (achieving very good results in my opinion with brush technics), is there any particular reason why you don't use one? Thanks!
thanks for watching! My lack of airbrush is simply as I didn't own one at the time - but if you have subscribed with notifications on you may well see some changes soon!
One question. After watching a couple of your videos I realized that you like keep costs down but why don’t you Never fill in the center seam of your model? It does make a biiiig difference
I didn't do it on this one because it was only meant to be a test bed. Sometimes I simply don't see the point, but to say that I never sand it down would be inaccurate. There are a number of videos out there where I do sand it down, if not on screen, certainly off of it
I bulk-produce tanks and the like to make up toy soldier sets I give away, I use enamels and have two bottles of thinners for cleaning, the first to get the bulk off the second to finish the job. The first bottle soon ends up as a dirty mix and that, applied sparingly with a large brush, makes a very good instant weathering finish. Not sure it'd work well on aircraft though.
Ronsol lighter fluid can also remove enamel wash without hurting the acrylic - just dont rub it too vigorously. If you use a lacquer clear coat over the model first (gloss) it will improve the flow action and will protect the underlayer of paint in case you make a mistake
Did you ever try artists oil paints (those in tubes) diluted with lighter fluid? Works easy on both acrylic and enamel gloss paints and looks great. Imho the best for panel lines. You can also make some very realistic looking oil stains or other dirt tracks. At last one layer of flat or semigloss clear to fix.
I wish i had seen this before i added acrylic wash on acrylic gloss varnish. So i named my last project, Spitfire Mk. XIV E the acrylic disaster 😂. Good video how to make it home 👍
4:53 It's only my first model I'm building, and I only have enamels, but when I left some paint on a plastic lid, I was thinking I would just re-dilute it and paint the second layer with it the other day, but after 2 days, when I wanted to do so, pure enamel thinner could not re-dilute the paint, even so I was scrubbing it with a brush, so I don't think it should destroy the paintjob neither, but as I said, this is my first model so correct me if I'm wrong.
Generally you would be correct, having left enamel paint for really long periods to dry means they are harder to remove. But, in my case, i tend to paint my models, get them touch dry, and then move on. Enamels can take 24 hours or more to become completely dry all the way through. So in my case, if i were to remove an enamel wash from an enamel base layer within that 24 hours, i run the risk of removing both the wash and paint
@@elpatrico2562 I would imagine that it should be ok, especially if you apply a thin wash. However, please test it on a scrap model/plastic so that you know for sure - i'd hate for you to try it out and it ruin your carefully applied paintwork
Wow, I didn't know you no should use a enamal paints+thinners if your using acrylic paints. I just put slot of water into humbrol Matt 30 cuz I'm poor like that :0. And good video, keep up the good work c:
You teased the typhoon at 0:09 so, when will you show the build? Or will you do that sooner. Because I've been hyped for that since you done the review
Thank you so much this was the video I was looking for I’m doing a remote control car body and I saw a fellow with the same accent you have. Anyways thank you so much really appreciate it I wish I could post pictures with the comments but that isn’t figured out yet Ronaldo panel loans
Looks great, next time you do British camo on a plane you should try a brown wash for the panel lines, I've done it on a few wargaming pieces that are using German camo and it looks more subtle but enough to stand out :)
@@ModelMinutes yeah it seems to suit the green and brown a bit more, and with greys I'll use black, white lighter greys I use a darker grey. It's weird but that's how I do it :) more scale realistic shadow I guess on the underside you could use black on everything bevaisebits naturally going to be darker anyway
As a model builder for the past fifty years, you give out quick solutions to increase the appearance of the finished model. This is so important to beginners. The general lack of young model builders in North America, is disturbing. I blame video game addiction.
I feel that video games are so much "easier" to get into - scale modelling must look like quite a challenge im comparison - even though it's probably just the same amount of difficulty. I do try and help this hobby out as i really enjoy it, and I hope that people find these videos useful and enjoyable
Young scale modeler here. I find myself putting more money into kits than buying games. I do agree with your statement, as a majority of my peers would rather spend 60 bucks on a new game, than on paints and tools. I guess we all have different priorities.
Hey! Great video. I liked so much that I've decided to subscribe. Must say that I had figured out how to make my own black wash but also must confess that I'm terrified to use it with my models because I feel I will ruin it because it will be possible to remove the excess or simply, the white spirit will end up damaging the underlying paint. I must say that I'm in Mexico and in here it's or very expensive or scarse the materials for modeling, so I use commercial air spray paint! I don't have either an airbrush; when ones is as poor as a rat, you have to decide between burying the model or buying equipment for achieving a descent model and generally wins the first. For Christmas, my wife gave me a beautiful Dehavilland Canada DHC 6 (she's of pure gold and very weird case giving the husband a model as gift for any reason), and naturally, I want to make a stunning work of it. It is in 1/72 yellow overall with details in red and black. I don't want to damage it whatsoever so I will appreciate your valued comments. Thank you so much and wish you all the best in 2023. My best regards from Cuernavaca Mexico.
Thanks so much! I have made washes out of pastel dust and water in the past which is easier to remove with water and less permanent if that is something worth considering
@@ModelMinutes I do on quite a lot of my model making already. I'm currently making a short series on painting models which includes a short clip on how not to do it. That model be revived for another video and I'll include it in that I think.
Many otherwise careful and excellent modelers use a black wash to fill in panel lines. However, if you observe photos of and actual airplanes that are in regular use, you do not see their panel lines so clearly and they are certainly not black. I suggest that you darken whatever colour you will be using on that surface just a bit and use that to fill the panel lines, etc. The result will be far more realistic. The same goes for built-up models of fabric-covered airplanes. Too many modelers make the rib stitching and tape pop out too vividly. Go to any airport where fabric-covered airplanes are tied down. Of course, Rhinebeck Aerodome is ideal for this but most small airports have a Cub or something like that sitting around. Look at the airplane, particularly the wing top from a distance in good light, and move in. Take note of when you can actually see the rib stitching. You'll get pretty close up. Anyway, that's my two pence.
In case nobody else has mentioned it, cheap makeup sponges are e better alternative to cotton buds and paper towels both, as there is nothing to flake off.
@@abiparmar I protected the decals with a varnish layer normally - but that was also acrylic (a gloss one will help the panel wash flow into the lines better)
Hiya Matt, as a recent subscriber (after watching the Hornby visit!) hence even though I’am a 00 model railway modeller, have found some very useful tips that can transpose across to my hobby! Just also watched your vids on your stash! Can see how easy it is to get hooked Lol 😂 you must a huge area to display them? Any chance of short video on your completed models. Eddie 🤓
Sadly I do lack space and most of them get stored in boxes. I don’t think a video on all my finished builds would be particularly quick 😂 I do have a OO gauge playlist of videos, even some n gauge stuff too
My question is: after painting the model with acrylics you apply a clear coat, finish, varnish, and after that you apply the wash? Or you can apply the wash directly on the painted surface and you spray the varnish at the end of the process. Thanks in advance.
The varnish acts as a protective layer, which prevents the wash reacting with the previous decals and paint layers. Whilst it might not be necessary I have found that on occasion the thinners can react with paint or decals and ruin them. Also, a gloss varnish will create a smooth surface that stops the wash “sticking” in the flat areas, allowing it to run into the recessed details and panel lines
@@ModelMinutes Thanks for your answer. So, varnish or not before wash? And if yes, which varnish (not very glossy) is the best for Tamiya acrylics? Thanks again for your time and patience!
@@catstuff274 i normally varnish before a wash as mentioned in my previous comment. You don't have to, if you don't want to, you can build however you like. As mentioned though, a wash can react and strip the previous paint layers if not protected though. I don't know if there is a "best" varnish to use with tamiya acrylics, i've used a variety of different brands and find they all (mostly) work fine - again this is a matter of preference to each modeller and the results they are looking for... Perhaps a good starting point would be something from Vallejo or even Tamiyas own varnish?
@@catstuff274 TS-80 is flat clear. It will not give you a glossy finish, rather a matt one. You could use this to protect your model before applying a wash but it will not run into recesses as easily and make the model look more dirty as the matt finish of the varnish will make the wash "stick" to it. As a top coat after a wash it would probably be ideal but as a pre-coat its not something I would usually do
I use oil paint with abit of light fluid it can be used on any paint and the fluid doesn't do any damage to the paint or if doing an acrylic its it's normally 70% water 30% paint same with enamel really but the oil wash is best tbh
@@ModelMinutes ahh that's why I couldn't find one. Would be rather interested in seeing how you would do it. Saw some chap using chipping solutions and this that and the other .
Un man you’d have to protect them with enamel or lacquer paints because otherwise when you remove the acrylic wash, you will take all your other paint off as well (take a look at my build videos, I do cover this in those quite often)
A gloss can be better as it will help encourage the wash to run into the panel lines and details, a matt surface might make the wash just "stick" where it is applied
Hi! Ive tried to highlight panel lines on my first build using AK washes and revell color mix thinner. when trying to remove the excess wash i ended up stripping a lot of the surrounding area (hand painted acrylic) through the clear coat down to the plastic before i had removed enough of the wash. what am i doing wrong here?
Sounds like a couple of things could be happening.. The acrylic paint was not 100% cured before you started the washes and the removal of the wash took the paint away. Something in the Revell Color mix or ak wash reacted with the acrylic paints and removed them (I’m not familiar with them so don’t know their composition) Physically rubbing too hard and removed the paint through abrasion
What is "white spirit" ?
It's a common cleaning product found here in the UK which can be used to thin down enamel paints. It goes by other names in other countries. I found the below information which might be more helpful if you aren't in the UK:
From Wikipedia:
White spirit (AU, UK & Ireland) or mineral spirits (US, Canada), also known as mineral turpentine (AU/NZ), turpentine substitute, and petroleum spirits, is a petroleum-derived clear liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting.
@Model Minutes Thank you I wasn't sure.
If you're in North America, look for 'mineral spirits' at your local hardware store. Same thing,
Racist paint thinner.
If you use enamel colours to paint the model, once dry, you can the use an acrylic varnish and once that is dry, apply the enamel washes, as the acrylic varnish will act as a barrier protecting the Enamel paint underneath. An alternate method is to add the panel lines using a fine nibbed drawing pen, the type you can get from the Works.
Yes, you’re quite right. Same way how I use an enamel varnish to protect my acrylic layers if I use an acrylic wash ☺️
Thank you for the tip, I use enamel paints on my models. I’m a bit of a beginner and this will really help my models look more realistic
Gary, do you mean a sort of tech drawing pen....? Just going to start a build of the Revell 1:600 scale T.O.S Enterprise, hundreds of panel lines on saucer section alone! Haven't built plastic kits in 45 Years!! Didn't do that level of detail then, in fact some didn't get paint at all! Lol!
I'm sorry, I've re-read comments and re watched video. I'm new to this and still confused. I've just finished painting my 1st plane with testors enamels. I was going to use gloss acrylic clear coat to apply the decals over. I planned on adding weathering, smoke stains then, and finishing with a matte acrylic coat to seal it all up. Is that correct? Or should I be using an enamel clear coat over my enamel paint? I got confused just writing this! But thanks for any help.
You’re one of my favourite youtubers, you’re honest, you get to the point and you’re helpful. Plus you’re entertaining as provide great content! Keep it up bro! :)
Yay, thank you!
Just finished building the Airfix 1/72 A6M2 and took the plunge with an enamel wash (went dark brown) after watching this tutorial a few times.
it's an absolute game-changer. Great work, Matt!
I’m glad it worked out for you 😊
I’ve been building models since 1970...but I’m a old DOG... but I can learn new tricks...I buy water color kits for children... use them for washes...lay them down heavy and use Q tips to clean... excellent video... VERY INFORMATIVE GREAT JOB... Chris from Ohio...Sept 24th 2020
Very cool! Thanks for the info!
Yep, those work good Chris.
Hmm... Maybe I should use this method since I painted my model with enamels.
@@elpatrico2562 It works pretty good.
@@THROTTLEPOWER Yeah, I will propably try it, the last layer of paint is drying right now, but I'm a little concerned I covered up most of the details, since it's my first kit and I kinda just getting the feel of it so it did not turn out as good as I planned, hope i'll have something left to highlight in the end. If not, I think I'm just gonna let it be like that and move on to the next one.
Simply excellent video ,no malarkey just how to do it best video I’ve seen ,cheers mate.
thanks!
Excellent run down of what to do, when, and why.
thanks!
brilliant video, i'll have to try this at some point - it's true that bottled washes are bloody expensive!!
Modelling Weekly yeah, really expensive 😶
Great tutorial Matt! Altough i prefer oil washes just because they can easily be wiped out without any thinner and oil paints can be used as exhaust stains too and i cant wait for your next build video because the last one with churchill was freaking amazing and enjoyable . ( my personal opinion ofc )
Thanks! I'm looking at getting into some oil paint weathering soon
@@ModelMinutes definitely try them. You can manipulate them as you wish with very realistic result and you don't need to buy any expensive oil paints. I am working now with 2 € oil paints and they are working fine for me!
K J thanks!
Never realised how this worked till now! Thanks for the tutorial!
Happy to help!
Super appreciate the annotated time stamps!
No problem!
Matt.......... Absolutely brilliant. One thing, you can apply floor polish then apply an acrylic wash .
Yes, there are lots of different ways of doing this kind of thing, I was trying to keep it simple for beginners. If you already know about washes then this video isn’t really going to be anything new
I purchased a cheap set of eyeshadow colours from amazon they work really well for weathering too
Good to know!
That spitfire looks nice. Thanks for the tutorial, I'll have to try it someday
Let me know how it goes!
thank you very much, i always wanted to do panel lines but i didn't know how to.Thank you for the very good tutorial!
Glad I could help!
fantastic finally some to explain what goes with what ie oil wash with acrylics and acrylic wash with enamelpaint
well done from canada
Glad it was helpful!
Yes that was my first miatake, Acrylic Wash over Acylic Paint! Thanks !@@ModelMinutes
@@alanjacks3835Yes, it can be too "hot" and remove the previous layers if they are the same format
Thanks! I watched this yesterday and tried a homemade wash today and it worked really well!
Great to hear!
I make nearly all my own washes etc...one great example of home made is pigments...I use school poster paint powdered versions...theres hundreds of colours and water based so easy to mix and clean off and once laquered etc they are permanent...500mg of powder paint less than 50p
Great tip!
That's right. Super cheap poster paint
Very good tutorial. Thanks. One question: Should we apply a coat of matt or gloss finish before applying the wash; if so, what is the recommended base of the coat (acryllic or enamel)?
A gloss varnish will help your wash flow better. It should be the opposite of whatever the wash is (so for enamel wash I would use a gloss acrylic coat as the base)
Very nice indeed. You can also use artists oils with white spirits. I tend to use dark brown washes as the black can be a bit too contrasting.
That's another technique i'm looking at developing in the near future
I found using pencil and then lightly smudging it works really well.
It's another method i have used in the past
How do u smidge it?
@@willthomas9216 with a finger I imagine
@@willthomas9216 what i fo is get some cotton wool.and lightly damp it, then rub it over the pencil lines. It works really well.
@@bodieofci5418 o ok sounds good I’m half way through my Balt and Paul defiant so I’ll give it a try.
thank you so much for this information it really helps me out with making the models more realistic
Happy to help!
Nice video, any tips on storing homemade wash, im brand new to this hobby, with plenty of disposable income but i love the idea of doing a lot by scratch.
You can get empty paint jars or bottles, they would be perfect
Thanks I can use this for any kits
You bet! I've even used it on figures
You might’ve gone over this but chalk washes work as well, chalk also works for a lot of weathering.
Thanks for the info! I'm aware of chalk washes but have never done one
nice build
I'm glad you like it
Thanks Matt, needed this as been struggling with washes.
Glad I could help!
Excellent advice and video. I too think that some shop bought products are very expensive. Will be following your instructions and making my own.
I build both plastic and wood models. Would it work on wood in your opinion?.
Glad it was helpful! Not sure about wood - it's quite porous isn't it? I think the wood would "drink" up the wash unless the wood was properly sealed - worth a go though
Great work and handy tutorial Matt thankyou !
Glad you liked it! Probably a little "simple" for you though haha!
Here where I live I use Bitumen of Judea as a wash. It is cheap and easy diluted. And also I can use it for weathering as well, like war tanks and such.
Sounds like an interesting technique
@@ModelMinutes if you get the chance for testing it, you're a more experienced modelist than I, perhaps you can take the best of this method.
Regards!
@@TheStugbit Thanks!
Million thanks for sharing this video..
I used to use water based fountain pen ink..
thanks for watching :D
Going to try this on my airfix a4 skyhawk
awesome!
Great trick and good result for a cost-effective solution, thanks for sharing this! by the way, watching some of your builds I've realized that you never use an airbrush (achieving very good results in my opinion with brush technics), is there any particular reason why you don't use one? Thanks!
thanks for watching! My lack of airbrush is simply as I didn't own one at the time - but if you have subscribed with notifications on you may well see some changes soon!
Very good video. Thanks for making it look easy.
Glad it was helpful!
And, your spitfire looks really good// the paint.
Thanks!
This is gonna help me in my first Gunpla build
awesome!
One question. After watching a couple of your videos I realized that you like keep costs down but why don’t you Never fill in the center seam of your model? It does make a biiiig difference
I didn't do it on this one because it was only meant to be a test bed. Sometimes I simply don't see the point, but to say that I never sand it down would be inaccurate. There are a number of videos out there where I do sand it down, if not on screen, certainly off of it
Thanks for tip...You just saved me £20 - 30 on branded washes...
Awesome man, great useful tutorial! I'm looking forward to get into plane scale modeling
You can do it!
Great tutorial Matt! Thanks for sharing this.
My pleasure!
Great tips Matt. Thanks again for sharing.
No problem!
I bulk-produce tanks and the like to make up toy soldier sets I give away, I use enamels and have two bottles of thinners for cleaning, the first to get the bulk off the second to finish the job. The first bottle soon ends up as a dirty mix and that, applied sparingly with a large brush, makes a very good instant weathering finish. Not sure it'd work well on aircraft though.
sounds like an interesting idea
That is a fantastic tip. Thanks
Glad it was useful
Nice. Can you do a weathering or exhaust stain,fuel stain demo ?
Great suggestion!
Thank you you are a model life saver
Happy to help
Ronsol lighter fluid can also remove enamel wash without hurting the acrylic - just dont rub it too vigorously.
If you use a lacquer clear coat over the model first (gloss) it will improve the flow action and will protect the underlayer of paint in case you make a mistake
thanks for the tip!
Thanks Matt. Take care
Thanks, you too!
Nice job looks perfect
Thanks very much!
rhats such a great video,thank you for making and sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Cheap, easy to make panel line wash I can make at home...you have my attention...
Great!
I use satin black in a 1:1 proportion, it works also well
nice!
That spitfire looks great!
Thanks!
Did you ever try artists oil paints (those in tubes) diluted with lighter fluid? Works easy on both acrylic and enamel gloss paints and looks great. Imho the best for panel lines. You can also make some very realistic looking oil stains or other dirt tracks.
At last one layer of flat or semigloss clear to fix.
I've got some oil paints to do some tests on - can't say it's currently one of my go-to techniques at the moment
Fantastic keep up the good work best regards
Thanks for the visit
I wish i had seen this before i added acrylic wash on acrylic gloss varnish. So i named my last project, Spitfire Mk. XIV E the acrylic disaster 😂. Good video how to make it home 👍
we all learn from our mistakes :D
Great advice, thanks. So easy to do.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Matt !!!!!!
Thanks!
4:53 It's only my first model I'm building, and I only have enamels, but when I left some paint on a plastic lid, I was thinking I would just re-dilute it and paint the second layer with it the other day, but after 2 days, when I wanted to do so, pure enamel thinner could not re-dilute the paint, even so I was scrubbing it with a brush, so I don't think it should destroy the paintjob neither, but as I said, this is my first model so correct me if I'm wrong.
Generally you would be correct, having left enamel paint for really long periods to dry means they are harder to remove. But, in my case, i tend to paint my models, get them touch dry, and then move on. Enamels can take 24 hours or more to become completely dry all the way through. So in my case, if i were to remove an enamel wash from an enamel base layer within that 24 hours, i run the risk of removing both the wash and paint
@@ModelMinutes I see, so briefly if I let it dry properely, and be careful, I won't have too much problem using the same type of paint for wash.
@@elpatrico2562 I would imagine that it should be ok, especially if you apply a thin wash. However, please test it on a scrap model/plastic so that you know for sure - i'd hate for you to try it out and it ruin your carefully applied paintwork
@@ModelMinutes Will do, thanks
@@elpatrico2562 I hope it works out! 😊
Wow, I didn't know you no should use a enamal paints+thinners if your using acrylic paints. I just put slot of water into humbrol Matt 30 cuz I'm poor like that :0. And good video, keep up the good work c:
Thanks for watching
You teased the typhoon at 0:09 so, when will you show the build? Or will you do that sooner. Because I've been hyped for that since you done the review
Typhoon will be out in the next month or 2
Alri
Thank you so much this was the video I was looking for I’m doing a remote control car body and I saw a fellow with the same accent you have. Anyways thank you so much really appreciate it I wish I could post pictures with the comments but that isn’t figured out yet Ronaldo panel loans
Glad I could help
Subscribed. Can we use derwent line marker for highlighting panel lines?
You can, I used fine tipped pens on one of my Hurricanes
@@ModelMinutes thank you sir
Great tips! Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Looks great, next time you do British camo on a plane you should try a brown wash for the panel lines, I've done it on a few wargaming pieces that are using German camo and it looks more subtle but enough to stand out :)
Thanks for the tip!
@@ModelMinutes yeah it seems to suit the green and brown a bit more, and with greys I'll use black, white lighter greys I use a darker grey. It's weird but that's how I do it :) more scale realistic shadow I guess on the underside you could use black on everything bevaisebits naturally going to be darker anyway
@@insomniacbritgaming1632 Great idea :D
Live your videos! I can’t help but notice your background…. Is it a room in the MOD?
Thanks for watching 😊. If it were a room in what I presume you mean the ministry of defence, I don’t think I’d be at liberty to discuss it 😂
As a model builder for the past fifty years, you give out quick solutions to increase the appearance of the finished model. This is so important to beginners. The general lack of young model builders in North America, is disturbing. I blame video game addiction.
I feel that video games are so much "easier" to get into - scale modelling must look like quite a challenge im comparison - even though it's probably just the same amount of difficulty. I do try and help this hobby out as i really enjoy it, and I hope that people find these videos useful and enjoyable
Young scale modeler here. I find myself putting more money into kits than buying games. I do agree with your statement, as a majority of my peers would rather spend 60 bucks on a new game, than on paints and tools. I guess we all have different priorities.
@@BudahKei c’est la vie
@@BudahKei keep Building!!! I remember my first build back in the mid/late 70's!!!! I'm still building today.... do you post any work????
Hey! Great video. I liked so much that I've decided to subscribe. Must say that I had figured out how to make my own black wash but also must confess that I'm terrified to use it with my models because I feel I will ruin it because it will be possible to remove the excess or simply, the white spirit will end up damaging the underlying paint. I must say that I'm in Mexico and in here it's or very expensive or scarse the materials for modeling, so I use commercial air spray paint! I don't have either an airbrush; when ones is as poor as a rat, you have to decide between burying the model or buying equipment for achieving a descent model and generally wins the first. For Christmas, my wife gave me a beautiful Dehavilland Canada DHC 6 (she's of pure gold and very weird case giving the husband a model as gift for any reason), and naturally, I want to make a stunning work of it. It is in 1/72 yellow overall with details in red and black. I don't want to damage it whatsoever so I will appreciate your valued comments. Thank you so much and wish you all the best in 2023. My best regards from Cuernavaca Mexico.
Thanks so much! I have made washes out of pastel dust and water in the past which is easier to remove with water and less permanent if that is something worth considering
@@ModelMinutes absolutely! Thank you
Thanks for the tips
No problem!
What kind of varnish (acrylic or lacquer) when you have a model painted with acrylics and enamel panel lines?
i tend to do an acrylic varnish if using enamel wash
Great video , fabulous work
Thanks! Do you think you’ll use this on any of your models?
@@ModelMinutes I do on quite a lot of my model making already. I'm currently making a short series on painting models which includes a short clip on how not to do it. That model be revived for another video and I'll include it in that I think.
@@StBlazeyModelWorld awesome!
@@ModelMinutes I'm definitely going to watch more your videos soon. saty safe mate
@@StBlazeyModelWorld you too!
Many otherwise careful and excellent modelers use a black wash to fill in panel lines. However, if you observe photos of and actual airplanes that are in regular use, you do not see their panel lines so clearly and they are certainly not black. I suggest that you darken whatever colour you will be using on that surface just a bit and use that to fill the panel lines, etc. The result will be far more realistic.
The same goes for built-up models of fabric-covered airplanes. Too many modelers make the rib stitching and tape pop out too vividly. Go to any airport where fabric-covered airplanes are tied down. Of course, Rhinebeck Aerodome is ideal for this but most small airports have a Cub or something like that sitting around. Look at the airplane, particularly the wing top from a distance in good light, and move in. Take note of when you can actually see the rib stitching. You'll get pretty close up.
Anyway, that's my two pence.
whilst this may be true there will always be an exception
@@ModelMinutes Indeed. Exceptions prove the rule.
It's a real game-changer innit it. Well done with this video, keep it up mate
Thanks, will do!
In case nobody else has mentioned it, cheap makeup sponges are e better alternative to cotton buds and paper towels both, as there is nothing to flake off.
Good point! I picked up a new set of sponges yesterday :)
Do you have to paint and varnish matt first before panel lining or can you do it on bare plastic?
you can do it on bare plastic, not that there is much point if you're going to paint over the top though
Great video. I have question, if I spray a good cape of barnish after an acrylic paint, can I use acrylic to wash?
Yes, absolutely. Provided the varnish isn't acrylic
@@ModelMinutes thanks a lot. Greetings from the Andes.
@@antonioportugal5987 greetings from the UK 👋
Thank you!!! Wonderful.
Thanks for watching!
Nice one mate
Thanks 👍
Hi mat. I paint with acrylics, wouldn't the white spirit bring up the acrylic paint or should I put a vanish on? If so what type?
As you can see in the video, the white spirit didn't react with the acrylic
@@ModelMinutes did you put a matte/gloss cite before?
@@abiparmar I protected the decals with a varnish layer normally - but that was also acrylic (a gloss one will help the panel wash flow into the lines better)
Hiya Matt, as a recent subscriber (after watching the Hornby visit!) hence even though I’am a 00 model railway modeller, have found some very useful tips that can transpose across to my hobby! Just also watched your vids on your stash! Can see how easy it is to get hooked Lol 😂 you must a huge area to display them? Any chance of short video on your completed models. Eddie 🤓
Sadly I do lack space and most of them get stored in boxes. I don’t think a video on all my finished builds would be particularly quick 😂 I do have a OO gauge playlist of videos, even some n gauge stuff too
Thank you once again.
My pleasure!
Nice vid!
Before you apply the wash have applied a varnish coat before hand or straight onto the paint?
a gloss varnish can help as it is smooth and will encourage the wash to run into the panel lines etc
My question is: after painting the model with acrylics you apply a clear coat, finish, varnish, and after that you apply the wash? Or you can apply the wash directly on the painted surface and you spray the varnish at the end of the process. Thanks in advance.
The varnish acts as a protective layer, which prevents the wash reacting with the previous decals and paint layers. Whilst it might not be necessary I have found that on occasion the thinners can react with paint or decals and ruin them.
Also, a gloss varnish will create a smooth surface that stops the wash “sticking” in the flat areas, allowing it to run into the recessed details and panel lines
@@ModelMinutes Thanks for your answer. So, varnish or not before wash? And if yes, which varnish (not very glossy) is the best for Tamiya acrylics? Thanks again for your time and patience!
@@catstuff274 i normally varnish before a wash as mentioned in my previous comment. You don't have to, if you don't want to, you can build however you like.
As mentioned though, a wash can react and strip the previous paint layers if not protected though.
I don't know if there is a "best" varnish to use with tamiya acrylics, i've used a variety of different brands and find they all (mostly) work fine - again this is a matter of preference to each modeller and the results they are looking for...
Perhaps a good starting point would be something from Vallejo or even Tamiyas own varnish?
@@ModelMinutes I have a can of Tamiya TS-80. Can I use it as varnish?
@@catstuff274 TS-80 is flat clear. It will not give you a glossy finish, rather a matt one. You could use this to protect your model before applying a wash but it will not run into recesses as easily and make the model look more dirty as the matt finish of the varnish will make the wash "stick" to it.
As a top coat after a wash it would probably be ideal but as a pre-coat its not something I would usually do
Thanks for this!
My pleasure!
thanks for that tutorial 👍
You're welcome 😊 thanks for watching!
I just use artist acrylic water based paint with drop of washing up liquid, if i don't like i can just wash off before it dries.
I've used that on some of my builds too
I use oil paint with abit of light fluid it can be used on any paint and the fluid doesn't do any damage to the paint or if doing an acrylic its it's normally 70% water 30% paint same with enamel really but the oil wash is best tbh
Thanks! I'm looking at doing some oil paint weathering in the future
Did you do a weathering video??
Not yet
@@ModelMinutes ahh that's why I couldn't find one. Would be rather interested in seeing how you would do it. Saw some chap using chipping solutions and this that and the other .
Wow....
This is helpful :D
Glad you think so!
Great video!
Thanks!
And this isn’t as carcinogenic as Tamiya panel wash!!
MOS6510 Models I can imagine!
Using a calligraphy pen is a great way to apply panel liner and not have the spillover you get with a brush
interesting tip!
Could I use acrylics Matt thx
You could, but you can’t use white spirit. Acrylic thins with water (I might make a video on this one separately)
Model Minutes could I use acrilics on airbrush paints
Un man you’d have to protect them with enamel or lacquer paints because otherwise when you remove the acrylic wash, you will take all your other paint off as well (take a look at my build videos, I do cover this in those quite often)
Briliant stuff.
Thanks!
Nice video
Thanks
Well matt were is you typoon and fiesler?
I’ve not started the Storch yet, but you should see the typhoon build over the next few months
Do you use an acrylic gloss or flat clear before applying the wash?
A gloss can be better as it will help encourage the wash to run into the panel lines and details, a matt surface might make the wash just "stick" where it is applied
@@ModelMinutes Should I use a gloss acrylic?
Maybe a stupid question, but I have just returned to modelling..... do you apply a matt varnish after weathering?
Ta
some people do, but personally I don't see the point. I do the matt varnish before weathering
Gonna give this a bash 👍
hope it goes ok!
Hi! Ive tried to highlight panel lines on my first build using AK washes and revell color mix thinner. when trying to remove the excess wash i ended up stripping a lot of the surrounding area (hand painted acrylic) through the clear coat down to the plastic before i had removed enough of the wash. what am i doing wrong here?
Sounds like a couple of things could be happening..
The acrylic paint was not 100% cured before you started the washes and the removal of the wash took the paint away.
Something in the Revell Color mix or ak wash reacted with the acrylic paints and removed them (I’m not familiar with them so don’t know their composition)
Physically rubbing too hard and removed the paint through abrasion