Hi, Loving the van rebuild series. How do you replace and shape the bullnose aluminium where the vertical and horizontal bullnoses meet at the corners of the van? All other explanations have been very informative to somebody that would like to restore an old van. Cheers Bern..
Thanks for the feedback Bern, we tend to panel beat and repair them and not replace them, they are spun corners which requires a specific lath to reproduce them. We do have a few spares from wrecked/spare part vans that we salvaged corners from also, if repair fails then we replace with old ones. They are fixed like all the other panels, sikaflex and rivets.
Looking to purchase one that's already been stripped and doing some necessary research!! After watching a couple of your videos how long do you estimate to re-clad the exterior?
Thank you for putting this up, very helpful!! We just started a food truck conversion with a Carapark 13FT and I was wondering what type of aluminium you use, or is it all standard??
hi, is it better to use stainless steel rivets on the outside, and is it worth replacing all rivets on the outside of my old van I'm restoring with closed-end rivets? thanks
Hi Steve. Thanks for the vids. I’m following your advice to the letter during my 1954 Carapark restoration. Just wondering where you get your rivets from? I’ve done a bit of a google search, but haven’t been able to find the exact ones in bulk. Cheers.
Thanks for this great video! Just want to know what rivets and process you’d recommend for attaching aluminium sheets to timber frame? Thanks in advance
Great video, just wondering were the counter sunk ones just for internal use? Also I have plywood sides that need to be replaced is there a way to fix wood sheet/plywood without exposed screws? and is there a method to make sure it is watertight? like have seams running vertical or horizontal?
You can get sealed end countersunk rivets which can be used externally, you will have to countersink the hole thought to get them completely flush. Is the ply painted? You can countersink fasteners, then fill and over paint or put a timber plug over the top (google timber plug or button cutter) . You could use sikaflex to just adhere external panels on without fasteners. Overlaps from top to bottom and front to back with Alloy sheets with sikeflex in the join prevents water ingress. I timber panels you would need to do an adhered scarf join to prevent ingress.
@@Raj_bharti147 You are welcome. I prefer to use 1.2 on the roof, it adds a bit more structural integrity. In the custom built hatches for our commercial vans we use 3mm on an aluminium frame as they need to be very stiff and take a lot of punishment. The walls in .8 gives a nice join and resists impacts and dents fairly well, 1.2 is better but adds a lot of bulk on the overlap joins. Corners we use .8 as it bends better and stiffens up anyway under tension.
Yes. The cladding was heavily painted badly dented and the customer wanted a higher level of finish than is possible with the old beaten up Aluminium. We normally maintain original materials as much as possible but customer requirements always take priority
This is so helpful, thank you!!
You are welcome Cheryl
Great work :)
Thanks Trevor, glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you 👍
You are welcome
Hi, Loving the van rebuild series. How do you replace and shape the bullnose aluminium where the vertical and horizontal bullnoses meet at the corners of the van? All other explanations have been very informative to somebody that would like to restore an old van. Cheers Bern..
Thanks for the feedback Bern, we tend to panel beat and repair them and not replace them, they are spun corners which requires a specific lath to reproduce them. We do have a few spares from wrecked/spare part vans that we salvaged corners from also, if repair fails then we replace with old ones. They are fixed like all the other panels, sikaflex and rivets.
Looking to purchase one that's already been stripped and doing some necessary research!!
After watching a couple of your videos how long do you estimate to re-clad the exterior?
@@mattwade9003 a few days and about $1500-$2000 in materials (excluding top corners)
Thank you for this video, really enjoyed watching it!
Where do you get the cladding sheets from and j rails?
local metal supplier, most ,etal supply shops will order what you need.
Thank you for putting this up, very helpful!! We just started a food truck conversion with a Carapark 13FT and I was wondering what type of aluminium you use, or is it all standard??
Yes there are several finish grades, we tend to get what available so it varies a little, thickness is more important.
What thickness do you recommend?
hi, is it better to use stainless steel rivets on the outside, and is it worth replacing all rivets on the outside of my old van I'm restoring with closed-end rivets?
thanks
No, you will create galvanic corrosion issues and they are also very difficult to drill out should you need to repair or repakce any.
Hi Steve. Thanks for the vids. I’m following your advice to the letter during my 1954 Carapark restoration. Just wondering where you get your rivets from? I’ve done a bit of a google search, but haven’t been able to find the exact ones in bulk. Cheers.
Mmm, most good hardware stores stock them or will get them in, if not a specialty fastener store.
Thanks for this great video! Just want to know what rivets and process you’d recommend for attaching aluminium sheets to timber frame? Thanks in advance
Hi Tania, there are a rivet designed specificly to go into timber its called a 'Peel Rivet'.
@@VintageRestorationsAustralia Thank you!
Great video, just wondering were the counter sunk ones just for internal use?
Also I have plywood sides that need to be replaced is there a way to fix wood sheet/plywood without exposed screws? and is there a method to make sure it is watertight? like have seams running vertical or horizontal?
You can get sealed end countersunk rivets which can be used externally, you will have to countersink the hole thought to get them completely flush. Is the ply painted? You can countersink fasteners, then fill and over paint or put a timber plug over the top (google timber plug or button cutter) . You could use sikaflex to just adhere external panels on without fasteners. Overlaps from top to bottom and front to back with Alloy sheets with sikeflex in the join prevents water ingress. I timber panels you would need to do an adhered scarf join to prevent ingress.
hey mate do you think 0.6 mm sheet of aluminium will be too thin or will it do the job. appreciate your help in advance
Yes it is too thin. 0.8mm minimum.
@@VintageRestorationsAustralia thanx mate appreciate your help so much
@@Raj_bharti147 You are welcome. I prefer to use 1.2 on the roof, it adds a bit more structural integrity. In the custom built hatches for our commercial vans we use 3mm on an aluminium frame as they need to be very stiff and take a lot of punishment. The walls in .8 gives a nice join and resists impacts and dents fairly well, 1.2 is better but adds a lot of bulk on the overlap joins. Corners we use .8 as it bends better and stiffens up anyway under tension.
Any advice for thickness of mdf external cladding on a very old van?
What thickness aluminium panels did you use?
1.2 mm Al sheet
What thickness do you use on outside walls )?
0.8 to 1.2mm depending what is available at the time.
Is there a reason you didn't use the original panels?
Yes. The cladding was heavily painted badly dented and the customer wanted a higher level of finish than is possible with the old beaten up
Aluminium. We normally maintain original materials as much as possible but customer requirements always take priority