Final ICF blocks, door and window headers, and preparing walls for the LiteDeck concrete roof forms.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- Episode 16: John joins the crew in setting the final row of regular ICF Fox Blocks. They set the headers over the garage door, windows, and main doors. John explains how the walls are being prepared to accept the concrete roof and the LiteDeck ICF forms. The concrete roof takes special preparation! A couple of calls are made to the structural engineer before this episode is complete. Finally, John walks about the completed walls as they are prepared for the concrete pour with special bracing courtesy of Fab Forms zuckles and zonts.
Channel overview: John and Leslie take you step by step on the journey of building their new home on Table Rock Lake. The house is an ICF (insulated concrete form) home with suspended garage floor and concrete decks. This all takes place on a sloped lot, where the fun never ends. From septic to backfill headaches, join them on their journey to build a home on their dream lake lot on Table Rock Lake!
Contractors and suppliers in this episode:
Fox Blocks ICF Forms
Fab Form Zuckles and Zonts
Area Information:
Table Rock Lake Chamber of Commerce
www.visittable...
Fantastic job on the bracing...
thanks John for showing these details ... very helpful
Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!
Looking awesome! I have wanted to build an ICF house ever since I learned about it. Someday soon!!! Thanks for sharing!!!!
You won’t regret it.
I’ve seen many videos of ICF walls but only a few Lite Deck concrete roof installations. I’m really looking forward to seeing the water proofing details!
Thanks, Brad. We have done a lot of research because that's definitely the thing that we're the most worried about. There will of course be a slope on the concrete roof so that we can get most of the water off of there, but we definitely have lots of different waterproofing plans in mind.
Just food for thought...Fox Block also offers a pre-made half block to save block cutting time.
Great content! Looking forward to the roof and your remaining journey! Curious to see the final result :) Greetings from Sweden!
Thank you so much! We are excited to get the roof on and enjoy the view.
would the low slope angle of the roof provide a good opportunity for a rooftop deck, maybe using Bison pedestals? gotta maximize that view!
Could you provide us with the lintel design details. No mention of stirrups over the big window and garage door is concerning since you mention you are going with a concrete roof. Just curious how the lintels are structured.Thanks for sharing
I am not sure the exact details since David and the structural engineer do all the design and planning, but the lintel is constructed with 3/4 inch rebar. We will ask him at the pour about the stirrups.
@@LakeLotBuild what is your Span, Lintel Depth and Uniformly Distributed Load?
@@LakeLotBuild I'd also like to ask about whether fiberglass rebar (GFRP?) was ever discussed as it has a higher strength for the same diameter of steel rebar, without the potential for corrosion. May not make financial sense for the whole project, but when it comes perhaps to the roof or these windows, it may be more beneficial? I'm also guessing you'll be adding Xypex to the roofing concrete?
Not sure about the GFRP. Sounds like a fantastic option though. We did Xypex on all the concrete this time and will be in the roof pour for sure!
Chris often the engineer will spec the lintels based on concrete thickness, concrete psi, lintel depth and expected load. Also there are lintel charts in the cold book that will detail lintel design.
Other than the small cost, why not just add more rebar to be safe?
John do you have video detail of reinforced beam over garage door? That is I think 16 feet wide opening. How did they put rebar in there , assuming they had to strip away those plastic webbing depending of beam depth . Thank you
There is 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch rebar in there in each block in order to make a structural beam. Once placed they tied it into the vertical blocks in the side with rebar too. We did the same over the big window (16 ft opening) in the back of house too. The blocks have chairs for the rebar so the beam over the garage was done just like all the other block with rebar added to each one and tied in.
Did I miss what the answer ended up being on the rebar size at the large openings?
We used both 3/4 and 1/4 inch on the large openings.
How did you come up with your home design? Would love to see a glimpse of the plans and elevations. And if you used an architect it would be great to hear about that experience.
Hi George! This is a great idea. My father is an architect, but I drew up the plans myself using knowledge I gained from him over the years. I will try to work in the plans and design to an upcoming episode.
I love how the build is going- only one question. Does the litedeck make it so no beams or trusses are needed? Keep up the good work
Yes. No interior beams or columns are needed inside and no trusses.
Thank you for the videos. Man look at all that lumber! might be cheaper to get the metal bracing systems.. :) Do you plan building more icf homes?
I know, right?!?! Our ICF contractor reuses all the 2x4s and 2x6 for bracing all over the job and then their final place is for studs for our interior walls. The larger dimensional lumber he takes with him and uses on multiple sites.
Why not just use SCC with Helix?
They guy that did our ICF pour is not a fan of Helix.
I know David I worked with him before I do the stucco work
Bro hope your son learn something about this trade 👷♂️👍
Looks like a lot of work. Be interesting to know what the purpose of building walls like that. Looks like the forms are made out of Styrofoam which isn't all that great of an r factor. Concrete has no r factor.
You may not be familiar with ICF (insulated concrete forms) construction. . We have an R factor of around 22 on the walls but because of no thermal bridging an actual house can reach an R factor much higher than that. We are using Fox Blocks but there are other brands available too.
@@LakeLotBuild I can't see how you can come up with an r24. It appears the foam is 2 inch which max would be a r 10 per side. Are you figuring r 4 for the concrete? Or is the foam thicker than 2 inch? I agree they isn't any thermal bridging. But you could do the same method on a wood frame. Installed the foam on the interior and exterior. Concrete is stronger and more fire resistant.
Hi! The breakdown for the R factor is on Fox locks website. They consider foam, concrete, and drywall.
@@SawmillerSmith The EPS foam should be 2 5/8" thick on each side (R12-13 per side), plus what should be a 6" cavity for concrete (not sure what was used on this project, but it should be at least 6" thick). ICF has an effective R value of up to 80 because of the thermal mass of the concrete and the time it takes to bridge.
Chris exactly right. The thermal mass makes a very effective barrier to thermal transfer.