I love whatching Triple L and seeing the awesome things you all do and create. I'm very envious! You folks are talented and skilled in so many areas. Great videos. Thank you for using my Little Wizard and Lumber Wizard detectors too. I am honored to be in the company of Triple L Rustic. You folks are the real deal in so many ways. Thank you for all you do! Billy from Wizards.
Good morning somebody was mentioning to put more lubrication on your blade it night help also put a wedge and release some pressure that might help also with my little hm126 wood land mill I cut an 18 inches live oak and that is what I did and it seam to help some and my blade was a 7 degree instead of the 10 for pine but pushing by hand is also different then automatic have a great day
Yes, TL, you did the only thing you could: add some human horsepower to the forward motion of the cutting head. Cutting pecan --or Elm, further north..or even some knotty hemlock out west, they can all overwhelm the mill. There is no adjustment in the 2 pulleys that power the forward motion... other than replacing the belt, you have to do what you did. That was the easiest & quickest solution. You got the pecan log cut, and made yourselves another $500 or so. Good job overall! PS: --Love your video editing ...the fast motion from time-to-time is greatly appreciated and impressive.
FROM THE INTERNET: Pecan has slightly lower strength values than some of the other species of Hickory, but it is still among the hardest and strongest of woods native to the United States.
Yeah that is smart to check your logs or wood in general for metal because if the blade hits something it could ricochet back and you or someone close to the mill could seriously get hurt.
Never sawed Pecan before but I don't see it being harder than white oak and I have sawed plenty of that. I have a LT35HD and I have to walk next to the head anyway so thats no problem for me and yes I do have to help it a bit. I use Woodmizer Turbo 7's on all my hard wood and have no problems, I just make sure I use plenty of lube (water and dish soap) and it seems to work out just fine. Good luck
I was watching another video from another site last night and they were cutting a Maple log with the Alaskan chainsaw cutter and it was just peepered with metal, you could tewll from the black streaks in the wood, they had to a lot of chain sharpening on the saw, but in the end they found what looked like a railroad spike on the last cut and they had to use a couple of chainsaws to cut around the spike and pry the boards apart. Show how dangerous log cutting can be. The Pecan is a hardwood, and now you know why it's called a hardwood as opposed to Pine is a softwood.
Hey Guys, Have you tried using ATF on your tracks? My Dad has the non hydraulic version of this mill. That is what he uses on his. Automatic transmission fluid is a great lubricant, it also has good cleaning property's. Im a transmission builder by trade, so i keep him stocked in used ATF. If you have a local shop that rebuilds you might ask them to save you some. you just might get it for free.
Just a thought. They make a Kevlar belts that might better serve. Did some soapy water from the blade/sawdust get on the belt maybe? That would have allowed it to slip. Once a drive belt slips a bit, they tend to start slipping more (due to being polished) unless tightened or having some resin applied. Although being allowed to slip at a certain point (as an engineered fail-safe) can be a safety thing as well. Great channel by the way. 👍👍
I see that Mike Morgan on Outdoors With The Morgans has a Wood-Mizer 150 with a debarker unit attached, do you think that a debarker would have helped in this case with the Pecan.
I would get some time milling with that saw before you tackle a log like that, plus you don't have a debarker option. I haven't heard of that being a problem, both my mills are the same power plant without a issue yet lol. Keep sawing & try Woodmizer 4° double hards 🧡👍💪💪 Safe sawing and keep us posted
I am definitely no expert but it could have something to do with the log being so green. I think if you air dried the log for a few months it may go differently. Just a thought
It would seem to me you would need to slow the feed rate down on the harder woods.Give the blade time to clear itself .If you have a feed rate adjustment I would try that.Idont own or operate a saw mill ,but I have done work with sevsral types of saws on many types of lumber ,I would give Wood Miser a call before I started pushing on my saw too much.Good luck God bless.PS you may want to put wedges behind the cuts ever so often to relieve the pressure on the blade.
Theres a reason pecan has the nickname of pecancreate. The stuff is HARD. its the only wood i've tripped every breaker on all my machines while trying to work with it.
I'm not a sawyer but I've used the wrong blade on my jig saw, circular saw, cut off saw, many times. You are using too fine a blade. Go back to that pine blade and tell me I'm wrong. Good videos.
Try a woodmizer 7 degree it is most suited for any thing you cut on your mill . Even if your getting free blade sponsor's it is not worth the hassle of poor wood cuts .
GDAY MATE from brisbane Australia differently debark, bark contains silica,no good for blades. Try another different log if it slips put some honey on that pulley, it won't slip again.good luck.Ernie smith from brisbane Australia
Is it just me or is there no lubrication on the blade I don't see it if there is then maybe you need something that will help cut through pecan SAP from sticking to the blade
What about slowing your travel speed even more so the blade has time to cut the extremely hard wood, if you try and go too fast there is more resistance and the drive motor cannot overcome the extra resistance
Hey, how are you? I am from Saudi Arabia and I have been following your channel since the start of broadcasting for a long time. Please, can you activate the translation in your channel into several languages, especially the Arabic language. Thank you very much and thank you very much
The wavy cut is because they welded it together going the other way. When flipped it back around to make it cut in your direction the blade needed rolled or flattened. Seen this a thousand times on other videos.
@@robintaylor-mockingeemill8223 are the blades from Cooks saw? I use to use them and they are not always flat. I'd have to roll them right out of the box. Not dogging them in anyway.
I love whatching Triple L and seeing the awesome things you all do and create. I'm very envious! You folks are talented and skilled in so many areas. Great videos. Thank you for using my Little Wizard and Lumber Wizard detectors too. I am honored to be in the company of Triple L Rustic. You folks are the real deal in so many ways.
Thank you for all you do!
Billy from Wizards.
We greatly appreciate you Billy! We love our Lumber Wizard 5!!
The way you folded that blade was cool. 😂😂
I'm over in Central Florida. It's cool to see mills in Florida doing their thing. Great job guys.
Excellent video! Love all the editing and different angles of camera work!
Great video! I had no idea pecan was that tough thanks for some great content
Another great job for the wood mizer
What if you would have placed a wedge back at the starting of the cut. What would be the downward pressure against the blade.
Definitely a beautiful species of wood but wow is it tuff
Good morning somebody was mentioning to put more lubrication on your blade it night help also put a wedge and release some pressure that might help also with my little hm126 wood land mill I cut an 18 inches live oak and that is what I did and it seam to help some and my blade was a 7 degree instead of the 10 for pine but pushing by hand is also different then automatic have a great day
Nice video, those are pretty good looking slabs.
I mill a lot of white oak. I have tried the 4 degree blades and have found the 10 degree works much better for me.
Yes, TL, you did the only thing you could: add some human horsepower to the forward motion of the cutting head. Cutting pecan --or Elm, further north..or even some knotty hemlock out west, they can all overwhelm the mill. There is no adjustment in the 2 pulleys that power the forward motion... other than replacing the belt, you have to do what you did. That was the easiest & quickest solution. You got the pecan log cut, and made yourselves another $500 or so. Good job overall! PS: --Love your video editing ...the fast motion from time-to-time is greatly appreciated and impressive.
Lovely superb Nice sawing.
When in doubt try a fresh blade its the only thing going through the wood!
You made a nice video 👍🏼💪🏼! If you go for carbide-blades you don't have to be so afraid... Checking is also money...
I will never new that pecan wood was that tuff. Glad your got it done. Where I can buy a one of those?
FROM THE INTERNET:
Pecan has slightly lower strength values than some of the other species of Hickory, but it is still among the hardest and strongest of woods native to the United States.
Good eye on the track slipping 👍
Lube your chain and track with ATF
Yeah that is smart to check your logs or wood in general for metal because if the blade hits something it could ricochet back and you or someone close to the mill could seriously get hurt.
How is your water drippage set!
Never sawed Pecan before but I don't see it being harder than white oak and I have sawed plenty of that. I have a LT35HD and I have to walk next to the head anyway so thats no problem for me and yes I do have to help it a bit. I use Woodmizer Turbo 7's on all my hard wood and have no problems, I just make sure I use plenty of lube (water and dish soap) and it seems to work out just fine. Good luck
I was watching another video from another site last night and they were cutting a Maple log with the Alaskan chainsaw cutter and it was just peepered with metal, you could tewll from the black streaks in the wood, they had to a lot of chain sharpening on the saw, but in the end they found what looked like a railroad spike on the last cut and they had to use a couple of chainsaws to cut around the spike and pry the boards apart. Show how dangerous log cutting can be. The Pecan is a hardwood, and now you know why it's called a hardwood as opposed to Pine is a softwood.
Hey Guys, Have you tried using ATF on your tracks? My Dad has the non hydraulic version of this mill. That is what he uses on his. Automatic transmission fluid is a great lubricant, it also has good cleaning property's. Im a transmission builder by trade, so i keep him stocked in used ATF. If you have a local shop that rebuilds you might ask them to save you some. you just might get it for free.
Muito bom ver como trabalha com boa tecnologia e uma ótima limpeza no local de trabalho
Por cierto, Feliz Navidad y Feliz Año Nuevo!!
Same problem with Locust. Wood was a little wet inside hard wood.
Not sure if it's possible but could you change the sprockets from belt to chain drive maybe bicycle chain size
Everytime I've ever turned Pecan on my lathe it's a fight. It's hard as steel.
What are you using for blade lube maybe the blade is dragging causing hi resistance
Just a thought. They make a Kevlar belts that might better serve. Did some soapy water from the blade/sawdust get on the belt maybe? That would have allowed it to slip.
Once a drive belt slips a bit, they tend to start slipping more (due to being polished) unless tightened or having some resin applied.
Although being allowed to slip at a certain point (as an engineered fail-safe) can be a safety thing as well. Great channel by the way. 👍👍
I see that Mike Morgan on Outdoors With The Morgans has a Wood-Mizer 150 with a debarker unit attached, do you think that a debarker would have helped in this case with the Pecan.
no
I only use double hard blades for wood mizer they keep the edge longer than regular blades. Never used LA blades.
FYI, Woodmizer has a sharpening service that can reshaped if you hit metal, $9/blade.
I would get some time milling with that saw before you tackle a log like that, plus you don't have a debarker option.
I haven't heard of that being a problem, both my mills are the same power plant without a issue yet lol.
Keep sawing & try Woodmizer 4° double hards 🧡👍💪💪
Safe sawing and keep us posted
I sawed a lightning struck white oak that cut that hard... hated to put the mill through that... some Ash cuts that hard also
I'm not sure if it was mentioned, but that bark will fall on the drive chain and get jamed in the sprocket on my saw.
I am definitely no expert but it could have something to do with the log being so green. I think if you air dried the log for a few months it may go differently. Just a thought
no that is not the case the wetter the better
Are those shelves nailed to that tree?
It would seem to me you would need to slow the feed rate down on the harder woods.Give the blade time to clear itself .If you have a feed rate adjustment I would try that.Idont own or operate a saw mill ,but I have done work with sevsral types of saws on many types of lumber ,I would give Wood Miser a call before I started pushing on my saw too much.Good luck God bless.PS you may want to put wedges behind the cuts ever so often to relieve the pressure on the blade.
Is it posable that the blade SET is not enough
Wood a debarker help? Not put bark chips in the saw cut.
What are using as lubrication
If your under roof or inside the lazer works great but if you cut out in sun light it doesn't show up very well at all .
Looked more like the motor would not turn in stead of a slipping belt.
try increasing your lube and use a wedge on your starting end to get weight off of the blade
Great video but where’s the boss gone 😊❤
Do you cut some Timbers for bowl turning. I live in Odessa Fl and would drive over for some pecan monkey ? ( what’s it real name) or splayed woods
we will have some bowl blanks in the future. right now they are not available.
Theres a reason pecan has the nickname of pecancreate. The stuff is HARD. its the only wood i've tripped every breaker on all my machines while trying to work with it.
NEXT TIME TRY DIESEL AS A CHAIN LUBE!!
Get you blades from Joe Maine
Watch out of the woods You Tube he gets his blade from Joe Maine I looked up and his blades are cheaper
Less money not made cheaper
nice looking slabs to bad it is so hard to cut
I'm not a sawyer but I've used the wrong blade on my jig saw, circular saw, cut off saw, many times. You are using too fine a blade. Go back to that pine blade and tell me I'm wrong. Good videos.
Try a woodmizer 7 degree it is most suited for any thing you cut on your mill . Even if your getting free blade sponsor's it is not worth the hassle of poor wood cuts .
The mill misses mama running it maybe 🤔🙂🙂
Please ignore all the comments about wedging and lube . Contact me if you have any questions .
GDAY MATE from brisbane Australia differently debark, bark contains silica,no good for blades. Try another different log if it slips put some honey on that pulley, it won't slip again.good luck.Ernie smith from brisbane Australia
Is it just me or is there no lubrication on the blade I don't see it if there is then maybe you need something that will help cut through pecan SAP from sticking to the blade
Where's Zoe?
What about slowing your travel speed even more so the blade has time to cut the extremely hard wood, if you try and go too fast there is more resistance and the drive motor cannot overcome the extra resistance
Todd that you are not cutting ebony, coco bold, Jakob’s or other really dense woods.
It seems to me it's leaving a lot of sawdust in the wood that might make it harder for the sawmill work harder
When I get my wood-mizer Im going to go with carbide blade from wood-mizer
Belt slippage
A Circular Sawmill or a Swing blade sawmill , would have cut through that Pecan log a lot faster .
See, now you are wishing you bought the debarker!
yeah, we opted not to get it, but there are certain logs that need it. We can always add it later.
I always use wooden nails in trees.
es que literal la esta patinando, creo que encontraron el limite de esa maquina, yo creo que una manual mas grande seria mil veces mejor!!
th-cam.com/video/PFLRYfAnExY/w-d-xo.html 12:00 in this video is how to uncoil you almost got it...
And I would bet your main engine drive belt is slipping . they stretch a lot in the first 20 hours and you cant see it .
Hey, how are you? I am from Saudi Arabia and I have been following your channel since the start of broadcasting for a long time. Please, can you activate the translation in your channel into several languages, especially the Arabic language. Thank you very much and thank you very much
It's all Larry's fault ... Lol
I disagree, ha
Just put the girl back on the thumbnail even if she isn’t on the video 😂
strike one
It to wet.
Where is female ät 🤨
where is your baby
The wavy cut is because they welded it together going the other way. When flipped it back around to make it cut in your direction the blade needed rolled or flattened. Seen this a thousand times on other videos.
These bands are flat
@@robintaylor-mockingeemill8223 are the blades from Cooks saw? I use to use them and they are not always flat. I'd have to roll them right out of the box. Not dogging them in anyway.