My 93 exhibited similar but not exact symptoms. Mine would "stutter" and overall have no power at high RPM. After checking the carb/cleaning a half dozen times, replaced the reeds, cleaned and inspected the PV, new gaskets and crank seal, new spark plug, cleaned the exhaust and repacked, checked for spark/timing all good I was about to throw in the towel. For giggles, I replaced the stator (even though it showed spark) and low and behold the beast was back from the grave and about bucked me off when I first rode it. Just throwing there out for others that instead of mechanical or fuel/air, check the electrical side of things. I was about to sell it as I was so aggravated. Hang in there Joe. I really enjoy our video's and unless you are Jett's mechanic, I think we are all learning along the way on our own bikes too. It's a constant learning process.
I had same exact experience that ended up being the flywheel. Stator, flywheel, regulator rectifier, CDI, coils, leads, caps, SOO many things that could cause this that he has not checked.
So i'm not sure if anyone missed it or not, but at 38:00 and a bit after, that screw boss just above the crank primary gear is broken, and if you look close through the hole, it goes directly into the crank housing. This is another source of an air leak as it's sucking air from inside the clutch cover. I was originally going to say crank seal, but considering the few already found rebuild faults, this engine has been abused a few too many times. Joe I think this needs a full teardown. Someone did not know what they were doing before you picked it up. Edit: Also that crank seal is bad. When you were pushing the sleeve back in it was pushing oil out on the bottom. Either there is a tear somewhere or it's not round and not sealing the outside rim. If you look closely down by 6 o'clock it looks like someone punched a divot into the seal boss, probably from installing it with a flathead screwdriver.
That is a good catch. I missed that. For sure a major if not only source of this bikes problem now. He can mess with this forever and not fix it until that gets addressed, plus he’s running it oil lean at 40:1.
Yep, it is the hole for the side cover screw. You can see that the bottom part of it is broken away. That case bolt needs thread sealer on it. Good catch.
Don’t give up Joe! You’re hot on the trail, chasing this one down!!! If it was easy it would’ve been done by now! And probably by the last owner…. I’ll stay tuned for the exciting conclusion of this one!
Press on, Joe! Methinks the CDI box/ignition system may be malfunctioning if power valve o/haul didn't fix it. At least you found some other issues that you fixed.
@@Hammie-the-barberI had one, also still have a 94 125, and a 94 250. (Also 125&250 87, but->) I love the look of the 90s bikes 95 is my fav with the purple too. It’s just the tanks always turn yellow! And they’re f*cking expensive! So I’m gonna sell all of them, the 90s.. I just can’t deal w my perfect bikes having yellow/black stained tanks
I had a '91 CR250 with a bad bog. I checked the power valve stator, pick-up, and coil. All checked out. I bought a Honda CDI, and that solved the problem.
The trouble shooting section of my ‘00 CR250r manual says for poor performance at high speed check the ignition timing. Possibles causes: alternator, faulty ignition control module, faulty ignition pulse generator. Thinking years back when I got my CR250, the power valve was adjusted to be open all the time. The motor had no low end power but did not bog like that on the high end. These bikes are a blast and worth the effort.
Gearhead is on the right track-it’s an electrical issue affecting ignition. Check grounds and electrical components after you replace the spark plug cap.
Just want to say a huge thank you for all of your videos that you make and for how in-depth you go with all the repairs and tuning. I have learnt so much from what you have shown. Thank you brother. Praying that God blesses you more and more. Psalm chapter 1.
That bike wanted to live. Without the bog you would have never found the clutch issue that could have grenaded the whole motor. Well done. I was very impressed you kept going to investigate!
for me when working on a case reed motor & you up jet & down jet & you get no change the issue lies with fundementals......the crv is fundemental, the first test ride proved that, so to imagine anything else is easy, ie...ignition, pipe, but when fuel is added or minused and no change the issue is always a fundemental issue. this guy is one awesome mechanic & it's enjoyable to watch the process. thanks Man
Amazing how you remembered the missing washer and backward spacer. Didn't cost you a dime. All that teardown to find its 2-easy to make errors. Nice job! :)
Admire your persistence with this one, you'll get it. I stand by my comment in the last vid - sounds like it's dropping spark at high RPM. You can hear it popping off, power valves/fuel would be a consistent bog. Start with a new coil, but honestly have a CDI and stator sourced if you need it. More electrical diagnostic work needed 👍
When I would run across these types of problems, if I had a similar machine in the shop, I'd just start swapping parts one at a time until I found the culprit. Saves a ton on buying brand new parts.
Don't get frustrated Joe, you're better than that. I think the only real place left is the tension on the governor, what else could there really be, especially after rebuilding the power valves now, they're still not engaging all the time.. Sounds like a weak spring. Man that's a bummer but you'll get it, you always do. Plus you found a few little odds and ends that really needed taken care of - that a plus!
Yes the power valve looks questionable but I would also do a leak down test as it’s difficult to assess crank seals by appearance. Also I have had Stator check out within range and still be bad. I had a similar experience recently with my trx250r…checked everything and it still ran poorly from mid to top. Replaced the old ignition system from Stator to coil and it runs perfectly now.
Check out that jb weld at 42:00 on the right side case. Also someone else pointed out the same hole for the side case also could be sucking air. I think a new RHS case is in order.
If a cr250 from that era doesn’t scare you a little bit, it’s not running right……that’s your test! 🤣 I bought a brand new 99 and it was insane, lift the wheel whenever you wanted and also when you didn’t.
You should try a new bike lol. I have a 87cr250 and a completely rebuilt 94 cr250, solid bikes, crap suspension tons of vibration. Also got an yz250 2018, different stuff. 4th gear power wheelies, high compression head w full PC, you just needa spend some money n buy smthn new 😂🤣 cr250 hp numbers are not comparable anymore
I had the same problem with my 94. Your power valve is not operating correctly. I was able to adjust it from the upper cylinder.Has to be that the "governor-ac tuator is sticking. Next time you have the clutch cover off please go over the kick start gear and why it would skip every 4 or 5 kicks. Great entertaining vids!!
Love watching your videos mate, used to mess about with bikes when I was younger but never understood how simple 2t really were 😂. Inspiring me to get a non runner now
I’m new to this just tore down my first bike to pieces and put it back together. Successfully. I’ve learn from watching you whatever the problem is if you work long enough and hard enough, you’ll find it.
I owned a 95 CR250 and it also bogged and fouled plugs all the time until I did 2 simple things. Upgraded to really good premix at 40 tp 1 and ran expensive plugs. After that, it ran clean after that reliably for the rest of the time I owned it. Good luck.
Long ago, a customer brought it a two stroke with a horrible bog. He never mentioned that he had replaced a shattered piston himself. Yes, there was a hunk of piston stuck inside the expansion chamber. A back story (pre purchase) can often produce positive results.
@@mattaltham9430 a typo, meant to say "brought in", as into our dealership. I'm actually a 65 year old motorcycle mechanic, and could relate stories i know are true, but difficult to believe. Another two stroke: a guy slotted his own stator plate, must have advanced the ignition more than 22 degrees max. Anyway, he burnt a hole dead center of his piston (preignition). He installed a carriage bolt and nut thru the hole, reassembled, and the damn thing ran! No lie, I'm the one who rebuilt that engine.
I've had a similar problem in the past and it was due to lack of back pressure in the exhaust. It actually sounded worse this time which would make sense being that the rest of the packing is gone. Its very possible that you fixed one problem (power valve) but with the packing removed caused a similar problem
I still have a kx 500 and it ran like that without packing in the pipe as well . I put new packing in it and it runs like a rooster with its head cut off😊..like you said ,it had alot to do with back pressure..
Sometimes the HT lead from the coil can go bad,they normally run rough at high revs,even though some of the leads are captive,it’s possible to grind the coil away where the HT lead enters…and do a big job after replacing the lead.This fixed my rough running on an old Kx250
Used to race these from '93 to '96, great bikes especially the "93. Spotted the bad exhaust valve bearing as soon as you pulled the cover. The exhaust valves on those needed regular servicing because the valve itself was made of steel and unlike aluminium didnt shed heat very well so they tended to carbon up and stick. Also the slot in the valve used to get build up at both ends eventually not allowing the valve to fully open or close. If memory serves, there isn't supposed to be a stud holding the water pump cover on, thats a bodge job from a previous owner, also there should be two dowel pins to align the cover I think one was eliminated due to the stud. Also there is supposed to be a separator between the two water pump gaskets, I don't think i saw one. The center case is broken where a clutch cover bolt threads in near the transfer port channel, hard to tell if that hole goes all the way through, its supposed to be a blind hole, I think I saw some sealer in the channel where that hole would come through. I'll bet someone put a bolt in that hole that was too long, tightened it and broke through the case. Clutch basket looks hammered, if the clutch drags you know the cause. You really should get the right washer for the clutch, that one is too small on the O.D. and what about the thickness. Theres supposed to be a plastic keeper under the carb spring to retain the cable in its holder, didn't see it. I think you are correct and the power valve now isn't opening. Its been a long time but I think you are a tooth off on the shaft in the case. Lift the cylinder then pull the rod up and rotate it clockwise one tooth then drop it back in. Take the pin out of the top of the power valve shaft in the cylinder, loosen the allen bolt and let the shaft drop down just far enough so you can see it below the cylinder this way you will be able to see the fork drop onto the pin before the cylinder seats on the gasket. You need to sort where the metal flakes are coming from. It looks like aluminum and since there were no signs of wear under the clutch cover and it looks like the bottom end is new I'd guess theres a shim missing from the end of a shaft or a gear on backwards rubbing against the case. I know you said the reeds were perfect but I wish you would have shown them. Based on everything we've seen thus far its obvious whoever worked on this last shouldn't be allowed to own tools. Last thing that rear tire looks like its off a 125. Looking forward to the next vid on this bike when you get it all sorted.
As I said in your last video about this bike, you should try holding the throttle at a steady RPM spray some starting fluid where it's been JB welded, and see if it revs higher.... I am gonna stick to that theory..Also, your spark plug should be tightened to the correct torque specs... I'm guessing that you do a lot of that "off camera" but, your spark plug was loosening while free revving... just saying... Love your channel Joe, please keep us updated! Thanks...
Just commented on the first vid. Had almost identical problem, same bike. It was the needle and emulsion tube (part of the carb body) not like the little pwk's where you could change it. New needle and swapped to another carb body ran great! Couldnt believe it whacked that bike so bad! Impossible to dial jetting and always "broke up" or sounded like a plug fouling even though it didnt.
Power valves are a problem. The seal behind the stator did not look seated far enough. Also the gap between the pickup coil and the flywheel look excessive. Is that adjustable?
These old things can send you downs rabbit hole for sure. I work on a lot of old stuff and they can be real head scratchers. I’m wondering about the CDI box, no real way to bench test it. Maybe find a CDI that you know is good. You can’t quit until you solve the mystery.
I herniated my l5s1 and i kept telling my Dr i feel like i broke my ankle. I went to Northwestern and told the Ortho Dr my story. This is weeks after seeing many Dr's. He said I'll x-ray your ankle. Would you know it, i broke my ankle. No F-in Shit! It is not against the law to have 2 problems at once, not yet! The PV isn't working correctly and probably has an Air leak. Everything healed on me, your bike will also. Keep at it!
I chased this same sounding problem for several months and went through my whole bike and then changed out a perfectly looking flywheel, and BAM! I had my bike back. Toss another flywheel on just to see.
I dont think crank seal. If clutch side it will smoke. Stator side revs be all over the place. Im 💯 sure its stator. Ive tested these before and had right results! Ktm are the worse to diagnose. They give right readings and fail at high rpm. Its almost impossible to diagnose. So its not a air leak from seal crack or whatever.
Was thinking, did you check the reeds? but yeh maybe a spring or worn shaft on powervalve (maybe the valve it self worn?) also thought try a difrent pipe, 2 stroke's need the perfect pressure waves. Great video again. Big Up!
Cause and affect buddy. What makes the power valve work? What makes the thing do what it does to make the thing that makes the power valve work? Process of elimination. Your good at this. I have all the confidence in you. I know you will find the failure.
Do a Leak down test. I just fixed an old Suzuki ts400 after doing a top end rebuild messed up the base gasket, somehow. It would run out of fuel and Die after 3/4 throttle. I went to the biggest main jet I could find but still would run out of fuel. Doing a leak down test I found out the base gasket on bottom of cylinder was leaking on both sides front and back of cylinder with only 6 psi it was bubbling the soapy liquid I sprayed all around it. Good luck I like your video's.
Had 6 of these bikes the bogging is because the power valve was stuck open. The reason it's now not revving out is because the power valve is not opening. When putting the cylinder back on you have to make sure the pin at the bottom of the rod goes in-between the 2 fork prongs on the rod that comes up from the crankcase. Can be quite tricky to get it lined up correctly. I actually brought a 96 model that wasn't revving out just like yours is and it was because the pin wasn't lined up in-between the 2 fork prongs
Hi rintin I’m watching from glasgow love this boy content but stil has loads to learn tbf he should a dissembled the power valve flange when he had the head off already and cleaned it up cause excess 2 stoke carbon build up on flange it’s self causing the power valve to stick like this done everything else other way around apart from 1 of main culprits
Sometimes when my crew and I were called in to redo somebody else's work we learned to tell the homeowners that most likely this would turn out to be a complete rip out. Sometimes we were wrong but not often !
Had the same exact problem with my yz250. Replaced reeds, intake boot, rejetting, tried a lectron, and replaced everything electrical. Still had the same problem. Turns out even though my timing marks were aligned, you still need to advance timing to spec. In my case a yz250 spec was .07 advanced. I also replaced dry side crank seal even though it was 2 months old and all my problems were fixed. So try to replace your seals and check your timing
Absolutely love the graphics and colours of the 1995 CR's this one is so close yet so far from being a kickass rocketship! I see the dreaded Husaberg 500 still lurking in the shop so you haven't given up on it will you give it another shot?? Keep up the great content.
I commented on your last video. Good job on figuring out the powervalve. But it's your carburetor. The emulsion tube where the needle runs is wore out. Doesn't matter what jetting you put in it'll never be right. I had the same issue on the same year bike. You need a new carb.
Try removing the pv all together. If it runs great at mid to top end with all the power than you have found the only issue is the pv system. A pv system is designed to give added power to the low and mid range.
This here ⬆️ We used to do that all the time on the older Ski-Doos and Sea-Doos with the exhaust valves. If we suspected a top end problem with them not opening all the way, we would simply remove the springs and let them go wide open and at least we would know if it was the problem or not. It would run like pig shit on the bottom but it was only for testing the top end. Do this… Also with the watercraft, we would have instances with the PVL stators and CDI's Breaking up intermittently/when they got warm even though they tested OK. Something to put in your bag of tricks anyway. Worth a shot.
@@module79l28 I noticed that also... There were about 3 or 4 saying the same comment... Yes, we all saw the plug moving, why repeat something already said unless you're going to add something to help with the diagnoses???
@@qacomputers3344 - Because their objective is engagement or to get people to look into their channels, they don't really have any interest in the video or the comment they stole. Unfortunately it seems to be working because the bot's comment has more likes than the original.
I think the stock position for the needle's clip, would be the middle one and these bikes are shipped, set for sea level. The average elevation in Wisconsin is 988 ft. above sea level with the minimum of 564 ft. and the maximum of 1,909 ft. At those elevations, you might consider placing the clip back in the second place from the top. The clip position doesn't affect wide open throttle position, but does at mid throttle positions. At wide open, the needle is out of the jet. I'd check to see what main and pilot jet recommendations for your elevation are as well. The best place to begin. I'm surprised that no one could diagnose and fix the problem. The bike finally ended up in the right hands, Joe the engineer, busman and "can do" mechanic. You're ruling out what isn't wrong and working your way down the list, repairing what is wrong. Won't be long 'till the bike is in tip top condition. Following this one. Great job Joe :)
I honestly think that you have a vacuum leak. Either from the carb itself or from the JB weld or one of the seals. It would explain why changing the jets did nothing. The more you rev the more air gets sucked in rather than creating a stronger vacuum which helps make more power.
Need to change all the bearings and clean where all them metal shaving where clogged up bearings now working properly...well that's what I think buddy.....great video thanks for sharing 😊
Spark plug loose. When you take your head nuts loose do them a little at a time and in a pattern so you dont warp the head. That clutch basket is smoked, grooved out like crazy....probably should change crank seals while you are in there too. That wiseco crank /rod is garbage and will grenade in that motor. Good video!
I got to thinking about this issue a bit. I once had a Kawasaki that was leaking between the cases. It took forever to figure it out. The Kawasaki was actually getting transmission oil into the crank case from a cracked case from a previous engine failure. Hope you figure it out.
Another user below commented about the hole through the side of the case above the crank at about 12 o'clock. I think they are right. Try taking that bolt out, start the bike and spray a quick shot of starting fluid or carb clean in there. If the motor revs, I think you found your problem, or at least one of the problems!
Good diagnosing Joe. I'm with you....powervalves still not right. I'm wondering if the spring tension is setup backwards. Not sure if you can do that on CR's but I know you can on RM's. Just a thought.
From experience working with 2 strokes I pretty much watched all you inspected the bike being as old as it is CDI Box gets weak over time it's in Fail Mode and check or replace stator and CDI Box under load the specs can change...
It could be a sticky governor. I had a '97 CR250 the 1st gen alu frame one and the power valve was so noisy I ended up removing it all. I believe it had the same cylinder head. It still runs nice, only the horse kick feeling was huge at around 6500 RPM. I used it all the way up in the RPM range, so it was not an issue for me but it was running crispy and was very responsive to throttle, not like this. Worth a try to remove the power valve, you do not have to remove the cylinder head for it, and let's hear how it sounds and responds to throttle. I would search the OEM carb settings and go from there also. Hope you will find the culprit of the issue.✌🏻🤞🏻
Kinda looked like them power valves were backwards but you really need to visually check the wiring to yur stator both high n low speed coils n wiring between, I could put a meter on it n it would check out but at high rpms it would vibrate the break that I found in the wiring after removing them n found it! Sounds exactly as mine did until I fixed it which was just clipping the end where it was almost broken except fer like two wires n I re-soldered it n it was good as new! The wires were basically all touching at idle but when revved it would separate n break the current!
This ⬆️ ⬆️ Just like on the older watercraft that we would wrench on. Tested out OK but would break up when running/warm/vibration… Even though they tested OK.
Just a thought? Coming from the snowmobile world of 2 strokes. I have a 2006 Arctic F7 EFI, and I was having a similar "Bog" issue, and the power valves are usually the culprit. But mine was only @at full throttle, whether it was from off the line or at speed. I had the power valves cleaned and adjusted and it was still there?? Clutching was another known issue for a "bog" issue, it checked out good too. I finally got an answer from a F7 guru, he says it's actually from the fuel pump and physical size of the fuel lines that caused this!! Too much fuel. This was an issue on F7'S after the 2003 model year due to a lot of F7's grenading due to being too lean! So, my point is, could it be a fuel pressure issue on yours?? Just a thought 🙂
Here's the deal you got JB weld on the bottom of the crank case. It could be leaking there. It clearly looked like the crank seal on the clutch side was deformed so it probably is leaking air there. It looked like the crank seal on the stater side was fine to me. I didn't see any sign of anything leaking out of it. But you don't know by just looking. You have to do a vacuum test or a pressure test ,one or the other to check for keaks.. And yes it looked like the governor's bad on your power valve or it's hanging up because of those old ass bearings.
Along with air leaks 2strokes are sensitive to exhaust pipe and muffler. Not sure if you repacked the muffler packing or left it without the packing. Good luck with the bike, its way to nice to let it die
Hello, I agree with Hondadad that it may be the stator, the powervalve looked strange in operation, but try cleaning the airfilter, you may test with a short run without the filter ( clean surface, road) if that works clean filter in kerosene and after in Dawn and water, dry and reoil , hey it's cheap.
I've had the same on a similar age cr a couple of years a go, it was the carb, Keihin pj carbs were out causing needle to not work properly, Lund mx talked about this when building his 93 last year,
Hey! Thing is with a stator, you can measure it all you want and get the right figures. But once its hot the resitance changes and you get a diffrent figure. To be 100% sure on a stator that is "half bad" is just to get another one and test it. Otherwise it could be a bad groundcable, or worsecase a bad cdi. You should checkup on that jb-weld thing btw... Gl!
I know the fellow goof with the plug but I think he's doing a good job at least he's willing to get in there and get his hands dirty and try,, most of the young people in my neck of the woods nowadays will hardly lay down the video games to get them a sandwich,, I love seeing young men who are willing to get out and do stuff like this, God bless stay safe out there, 😬🇺🇲
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My 93 exhibited similar but not exact symptoms. Mine would "stutter" and overall have no power at high RPM. After checking the carb/cleaning a half dozen times, replaced the reeds, cleaned and inspected the PV, new gaskets and crank seal, new spark plug, cleaned the exhaust and repacked, checked for spark/timing all good I was about to throw in the towel. For giggles, I replaced the stator (even though it showed spark) and low and behold the beast was back from the grave and about bucked me off when I first rode it. Just throwing there out for others that instead of mechanical or fuel/air, check the electrical side of things. I was about to sell it as I was so aggravated. Hang in there Joe. I really enjoy our video's and unless you are Jett's mechanic, I think we are all learning along the way on our own bikes too. It's a constant learning process.
I had same exact experience that ended up being the flywheel. Stator, flywheel, regulator rectifier, CDI, coils, leads, caps, SOO many things that could cause this that he has not checked.
So i'm not sure if anyone missed it or not, but at 38:00 and a bit after, that screw boss just above the crank primary gear is broken, and if you look close through the hole, it goes directly into the crank housing. This is another source of an air leak as it's sucking air from inside the clutch cover. I was originally going to say crank seal, but considering the few already found rebuild faults, this engine has been abused a few too many times.
Joe I think this needs a full teardown. Someone did not know what they were doing before you picked it up.
Edit: Also that crank seal is bad. When you were pushing the sleeve back in it was pushing oil out on the bottom. Either there is a tear somewhere or it's not round and not sealing the outside rim. If you look closely down by 6 o'clock it looks like someone punched a divot into the seal boss, probably from installing it with a flathead screwdriver.
Are you talking about the hole at 12 o’clock for the case cover or the hole with the slot at around 1 o’clock?
@@GNX157 12 o'clock. Goes right into crankcase as you can see the blue rag right through it.
That is a good catch. I missed that. For sure a major if not only source of this bikes problem now. He can mess with this forever and not fix it until that gets addressed, plus he’s running it oil lean at 40:1.
Yep, it is the hole for the side cover screw. You can see that the bottom part of it is broken away. That case bolt needs thread sealer on it. Good catch.
@GNX157 32/1 is best in my opinion 😊
Don’t give up Joe! You’re hot on the trail, chasing this one down!!! If it was easy it would’ve been done by now! And probably by the last owner…. I’ll stay tuned for the exciting conclusion of this one!
Claw hammer for the win, just like Matt’s off-road recovery!
Press on, Joe! Methinks the CDI box/ignition system may be malfunctioning if power valve o/haul didn't fix it. At least you found some other issues that you fixed.
I had a 1990 CR250 with similar symptoms. I chased everything until I tried a new black box. Ran perfect with the new black box.
if jetting does not effect it, and everything else is checking out, it must be electrical... CDI box first and then stator...
@@michaelschlup-c5o stator before cdi always
This is one of the best CR factory plastics I love the mid and late 90s CRs
The 95 is my favorite till this day.i have been looking for one for years now
@@Hammie-the-barberI had one, also still have a 94 125, and a 94 250. (Also 125&250 87, but->) I love the look of the 90s bikes 95 is my fav with the purple too. It’s just the tanks always turn yellow! And they’re f*cking expensive! So I’m gonna sell all of them, the 90s.. I just can’t deal w my perfect bikes having yellow/black stained tanks
@@okerhrh4139you could maybe get tank covers?
Hated this purple shit. I actually bought a 1994 leftover in 1995. I still think they were the best year made. Color insufficient.
I had a 96 500 no purple, miss that bike
I had a '91 CR250 with a bad bog. I checked the power valve stator, pick-up, and coil. All checked out. I bought a Honda CDI, and that solved the problem.
Don't give up on it. Your success is the reason I'm subscribed. Read up on it and make the necessary corrections.
I was thinking the same.
He shouldn't give up.
The trouble shooting section of my ‘00 CR250r manual says for poor performance at high speed check the ignition timing. Possibles causes: alternator, faulty ignition control module, faulty ignition pulse generator.
Thinking years back when I got my CR250, the power valve was adjusted to be open all the time. The motor had no low end power but did not bog like that on the high end.
These bikes are a blast and worth the effort.
Gearhead is on the right track-it’s an electrical issue affecting ignition. Check grounds and electrical components after you replace the spark plug cap.
Just want to say a huge thank you for all of your videos that you make and for how in-depth you go with all the repairs and tuning. I have learnt so much from what you have shown. Thank you brother. Praying that God blesses you more and more. Psalm chapter 1.
That bike wanted to live. Without the bog you would have never found the clutch issue that could have grenaded the whole motor. Well done. I was very impressed you kept going to investigate!
Bongs coffee and dirt bikes. Already took my 66cc mountain bike to get coffee. Happy Sunday.
Interesting combination.
I’m faster after a bong rip. I don’t know why. It just is
I do the hippie 8ball. Smoke half a joint while drinking morning coffee. See which one wins.: p. Will be riding real slow after that lmao
Bongs are best for rebuilds etc,i done every vid on my channel stoned👍
Perfect combination apart from it's Wake up have coffee then bong's and watch 👌💯💚💛❤️
for me when working on a case reed motor & you up jet & down jet & you get no change the issue lies with fundementals......the crv is fundemental, the first test ride proved that, so to imagine anything else is easy, ie...ignition, pipe, but when fuel is added or minused and no change the issue is always a fundemental issue. this guy is one awesome mechanic & it's enjoyable to watch the process. thanks Man
Amazing how you remembered the missing washer and backward spacer. Didn't cost you a dime. All that teardown to find its 2-easy to make errors. Nice job! :)
Would be interesting if you could somehow force the pv in the fully open position and then test ride to see if a difference. Love your channel!
I just broke my foot..so I am going back on your older videos...thanks for the great content
Its perfect! Looks perfect! Never seeen so much perfection, yet it doesnt run right.
Looking forward to the next video on this bike of motorcycle mysteries.
keep at it. thats a BADASS bike.
Admire your persistence with this one, you'll get it.
I stand by my comment in the last vid - sounds like it's dropping spark at high RPM. You can hear it popping off, power valves/fuel would be a consistent bog. Start with a new coil, but honestly have a CDI and stator sourced if you need it. More electrical diagnostic work needed 👍
That's what I said too. I think flywheel.
Charlie Bass is right.
When I would run across these types of problems, if I had a similar machine in the shop, I'd just start swapping parts one at a time until I found the culprit. Saves a ton on buying brand new parts.
Don't get frustrated Joe, you're better than that. I think the only real place left is the tension on the governor, what else could there really be, especially after rebuilding the power valves now, they're still not engaging all the time.. Sounds like a weak spring. Man that's a bummer but you'll get it, you always do. Plus you found a few little odds and ends that really needed taken care of - that a plus!
Yes the power valve looks questionable but I would also do a leak down test as it’s difficult to assess crank seals by appearance. Also I have had Stator check out within range and still be bad. I had a similar experience recently with my trx250r…checked everything and it still ran poorly from mid to top. Replaced the old ignition system from Stator to coil and it runs perfectly now.
Don't give up just a little bit of patience and your knowledge you'll get it figured out
CDI box, I had one that did the exact same thing. Changed the black box and ran good as new.
Cannot wait to see what the bogging issue was ! Like always, awesome videos
14:10 spark plug is twisting out with every high tech, haha…
Perfectly normal. Lol!
Just was going to say that
Great eyes 👀
I was just going to say that! lol!
Spark plug be like 🔄
Love to see you rebuild bikes mine was stolen in front of my house so now I have to get another one
Check out that jb weld at 42:00 on the right side case. Also someone else pointed out the same hole for the side case also could be sucking air. I think a new RHS case is in order.
If a cr250 from that era doesn’t scare you a little bit, it’s not running right……that’s your test! 🤣 I bought a brand new 99 and it was insane, lift the wheel whenever you wanted and also when you didn’t.
same my 99 kx250
CR250 '89 here, couldn't agree more
No cr250 should scare you it's cr500 that's scary.
You should try a new bike lol. I have a 87cr250 and a completely rebuilt 94 cr250, solid bikes, crap suspension tons of vibration. Also got an yz250 2018, different stuff. 4th gear power wheelies, high compression head w full PC, you just needa spend some money n buy smthn new 😂🤣 cr250 hp numbers are not comparable anymore
Ol' Joe loves his dirk bikes. Finally a challenge to your powers. Gasket maker (form a gasket) was my friend
Definitely can hear the power valve on a healthy 250. Very distinct sound
I had the same problem with my 94. Your power valve is not operating correctly. I was able to adjust it from the upper cylinder.Has to be that the "governor-ac tuator is sticking. Next time you have the clutch cover off please go over the kick start gear and why it would skip every 4 or 5 kicks. Great entertaining vids!!
That is unbelievably clean. That’s a good deal.
ive had the fly wheel it self go bad and tryed everything like you finally replace fly wheel never missed a lick after that
Spark plug was loosening up when adjusting power valve lol😂
Love watching your videos mate, used to mess about with bikes when I was younger but never understood how simple 2t really were 😂. Inspiring me to get a non runner now
I’m new to this just tore down my first bike to pieces and put it back together. Successfully. I’ve learn from watching you whatever the problem is if you work long enough and hard enough, you’ll find it.
I owned a 95 CR250 and it also bogged and fouled plugs all the time until I did 2 simple things. Upgraded to really good premix at 40 tp 1 and ran expensive plugs. After that, it ran clean after that reliably for the rest of the time I owned it. Good luck.
Long ago, a customer brought it a two stroke with a horrible bog. He never mentioned that he had replaced a shattered piston himself. Yes, there was a hunk of piston stuck inside the expansion chamber. A back story (pre purchase) can often produce positive results.
Where did he bring it from???
@@mattaltham9430 a typo, meant to say "brought in", as into our dealership. I'm actually a 65 year old motorcycle mechanic, and could relate stories i know are true, but difficult to believe. Another two stroke: a guy slotted his own stator plate, must have advanced the ignition more than 22 degrees max. Anyway, he burnt a hole dead center of his piston (preignition). He installed a carriage bolt and nut thru the hole, reassembled, and the damn thing ran! No lie, I'm the one who rebuilt that engine.
Allright....let's go...we're all ready for part 3....what did you find wrong?
Carb wore out, governor weak or what?
Had a similar problem with my 83 model changed a tried everything..then decided to chuck on a random carb from another 250 bike
Fixed the problem
I've had a similar problem in the past and it was due to lack of back pressure in the exhaust. It actually sounded worse this time which would make sense being that the rest of the packing is gone. Its very possible that you fixed one problem (power valve) but with the packing removed caused a similar problem
I still have a kx 500 and it ran like that without packing in the pipe as well . I put new packing in it and it runs like a rooster with its head cut off😊..like you said ,it had alot to do with back pressure..
Sometimes the HT lead from the coil can go bad,they normally run rough at high revs,even though some of the leads are captive,it’s possible to grind the coil away where the HT lead enters…and do a big job after replacing the lead.This fixed my rough running on an old Kx250
Used to race these from '93 to '96, great bikes especially the "93. Spotted the bad exhaust valve bearing as soon as you pulled the cover. The exhaust valves on those needed regular servicing because the valve itself was made of steel and unlike aluminium didnt shed heat very well so they tended to carbon up and stick. Also the slot in the valve used to get build up at both ends eventually not allowing the valve to fully open or close. If memory serves, there isn't supposed to be a stud holding the water pump cover on, thats a bodge job from a previous owner, also there should be two dowel pins to align the cover I think one was eliminated due to the stud. Also there is supposed to be a separator between the two water pump gaskets, I don't think i saw one. The center case is broken where a clutch cover bolt threads in near the transfer port channel, hard to tell if that hole goes all the way through, its supposed to be a blind hole, I think I saw some sealer in the channel where that hole would come through. I'll bet someone put a bolt in that hole that was too long, tightened it and broke through the case. Clutch basket looks hammered, if the clutch drags you know the cause. You really should get the right washer for the clutch, that one is too small on the O.D. and what about the thickness. Theres supposed to be a plastic keeper under the carb spring to retain the cable in its holder, didn't see it. I think you are correct and the power valve now isn't opening. Its been a long time but I think you are a tooth off on the shaft in the case. Lift the cylinder then pull the rod up and rotate it clockwise one tooth then drop it back in. Take the pin out of the top of the power valve shaft in the cylinder, loosen the allen bolt and let the shaft drop down just far enough so you can see it below the cylinder this way you will be able to see the fork drop onto the pin before the cylinder seats on the gasket. You need to sort where the metal flakes are coming from. It looks like aluminum and since there were no signs of wear under the clutch cover and it looks like the bottom end is new I'd guess theres a shim missing from the end of a shaft or a gear on backwards rubbing against the case. I know you said the reeds were perfect but I wish you would have shown them. Based on everything we've seen thus far its obvious whoever worked on this last shouldn't be allowed to own tools. Last thing that rear tire looks like its off a 125. Looking forward to the next vid on this bike when you get it all sorted.
Nice write up!! Someone sure knows his CR's!!
@@TN_HondaDad I own a 96 and that gentleman must have owned a few of them.
Guess sometimes it's good to go behind others work. Never know what was done wrong till you find it. Great job Joe
No doubt. I wished I had a dollar for every trans washer missing....lol. 🤑🤑🤑
I have complete faith in your skills to solve this issue...
As I said in your last video about this bike, you should try holding the throttle at a steady RPM spray some starting fluid where it's been JB welded, and see if it revs higher.... I am gonna stick to that theory..Also, your spark plug should be tightened to the correct torque specs... I'm guessing that you do a lot of that "off camera" but, your spark plug was loosening while free revving... just saying... Love your channel Joe, please keep us updated! Thanks...
How frustrating, chasing problems down a rabbit hole, done too much of that !! hope you get it sorted
Clutch basket has definitely seen better days 😂
Just commented on the first vid. Had almost identical problem, same bike. It was the needle and emulsion tube (part of the carb body) not like the little pwk's where you could change it. New needle and swapped to another carb body ran great! Couldnt believe it whacked that bike so bad! Impossible to dial jetting and always "broke up" or sounded like a plug fouling even though it didnt.
Make sure to tighten your spark plug it's loose !
sinning out every time he gave it gas
Lower case seal
😂all that and it still runs like crap
@@USMichigunPrepper you mad, wanna change that tampon of yours?
@@USMichigunPrepperjealous? Jealousy is for losers - fyi
Power valves are a problem. The seal behind the stator did not look seated far enough. Also the gap between the pickup coil and the flywheel look excessive. Is that adjustable?
Great catch on the crank gear spacer!
That gear definitely wasn't working properly.
Yes and from that moving around that seal should of been replaced
These old things can send you downs rabbit hole for sure. I work on a lot of old stuff and they can be real head scratchers. I’m wondering about the CDI box, no real way to bench test it. Maybe find a CDI that you know is good. You can’t quit until you solve the mystery.
I herniated my l5s1 and i kept telling my Dr i feel like i broke my ankle. I went to Northwestern and told the Ortho Dr my story. This is weeks after seeing many Dr's. He said I'll x-ray your ankle. Would you know it, i broke my ankle. No F-in Shit! It is not against the law to have 2 problems at once, not yet! The PV isn't working correctly and probably has an Air leak. Everything healed on me, your bike will also. Keep at it!
Plug is loose also check clock position on spring in upside down or wrong spring or week.You are a good man you will get it.
I chased this same sounding problem for several months and went through my whole bike and then changed out a perfectly looking flywheel, and BAM! I had my bike back. Toss another flywheel on just to see.
I always wait for you to say “looks perfect” after inspecting parts.
LoL
Brand new!
Check that crack on the bottom of the case where the seller patched it it has to be 100% sealed on a two stroke
Yes definately a air leak can be bad crank seals or the job weld hole. Put a gauge on it and put air in to around 160 and see if it holds pressure
Check my earlier comment below.
100% agreed I’ve told this from the first video..
I dont think crank seal. If clutch side it will smoke. Stator side revs be all over the place. Im 💯 sure its stator. Ive tested these before and had right results! Ktm are the worse to diagnose. They give right readings and fail at high rpm. Its almost impossible to diagnose. So its not a air leak from seal crack or whatever.
Was thinking, did you check the reeds? but yeh maybe a spring or worn shaft on powervalve (maybe the valve it self worn?) also thought try a difrent pipe, 2 stroke's need the perfect pressure waves. Great video again. Big Up!
Cause and affect buddy. What makes the power valve work? What makes the thing do what it does to make the thing that makes the power valve work? Process of elimination. Your good at this. I have all the confidence in you. I know you will find the failure.
I wish you lived here in Ontario Canada! There are few good mechanics here! I bought a can am instead of a yamaha and ive regreted it ever since!
Do a Leak down test. I just fixed an old Suzuki ts400 after doing a top end rebuild messed up the base gasket, somehow. It would run out of fuel and Die after 3/4 throttle. I went to the biggest main jet I could find but still would run out of fuel. Doing a leak down test I found out the base gasket on bottom of cylinder was leaking on both sides front and back of cylinder with only 6 psi it was bubbling the soapy liquid I sprayed all around it.
Good luck I like your video's.
Had 6 of these bikes the bogging is because the power valve was stuck open. The reason it's now not revving out is because the power valve is not opening. When putting the cylinder back on you have to make sure the pin at the bottom of the rod goes in-between the 2 fork prongs on the rod that comes up from the crankcase. Can be quite tricky to get it lined up correctly. I actually brought a 96 model that wasn't revving out just like yours is and it was because the pin wasn't lined up in-between the 2 fork prongs
Brilliant video Joe watching from Edinburgh Scotland UK 🇬🇧 👍
Hi rintin I’m watching from glasgow love this boy content but stil has loads to learn tbf he should a dissembled the power valve flange when he had the head off already and cleaned it up cause excess 2 stoke carbon build up on flange it’s self causing the power valve to stick like this done everything else other way around apart from 1 of main culprits
Sometimes when my crew and I were called in to redo somebody else's work we learned to tell the homeowners that most likely this would turn out to be a complete rip out. Sometimes we were wrong but not often !
Dude that Wiseco basket looks grooved to hell.
Had the same exact problem with my yz250. Replaced reeds, intake boot, rejetting, tried a lectron, and replaced everything electrical. Still had the same problem. Turns out even though my timing marks were aligned, you still need to advance timing to spec. In my case a yz250 spec was .07 advanced. I also replaced dry side crank seal even though it was 2 months old and all my problems were fixed. So try to replace your seals and check your timing
Absolutely love the graphics and colours of the 1995 CR's this one is so close yet so far from being a kickass rocketship! I see the dreaded Husaberg 500 still lurking in the shop so you haven't given up on it will you give it another shot?? Keep up the great content.
You torqued those head nuts WAY past 20 before you even got to the torque wrench.
Yes he did
ya its fcked bikes gunna blow up now with how important those it
I commented on your last video. Good job on figuring out the powervalve. But it's your carburetor. The emulsion tube where the needle runs is wore out. Doesn't matter what jetting you put in it'll never be right. I had the same issue on the same year bike. You need a new carb.
Try removing the pv all together. If it runs great at mid to top end with all the power than you have found the only issue is the pv system. A pv system is designed to give added power to the low and mid range.
This here ⬆️ We used to do that all the time on the older Ski-Doos and Sea-Doos with the exhaust valves. If we suspected a top end problem with them not opening all the way, we would simply remove the springs and let them go wide open and at least we would know if it was the problem or not. It would run like pig shit on the bottom but it was only for testing the top end. Do this…
Also with the watercraft, we would have instances with the PVL stators and CDI's Breaking up intermittently/when they got warm even though they tested OK. Something to put in your bag of tricks anyway. Worth a shot.
I third this. Had a ‘99 Rm125. Thing ran best without power valves and when you installed them. It’d bend the rod. 😂
Definitely agree with removing power valve
At 14.09 onwards you can see the spark plug turn on its own when the bike is being revved while checking if the power valve is working!
Oh my goodness, you’re right, it’s gonna fly to heaven. Sparky knows something is wrong and is trying to nope tf outta there.
Some bot stole your comment.
@@module79l28 I noticed that also... There were about 3 or 4 saying the same comment... Yes, we all saw the plug moving, why repeat something already said unless you're going to add something to help with the diagnoses???
@@qacomputers3344 - Because their objective is engagement or to get people to look into their channels, they don't really have any interest in the video or the comment they stole.
Unfortunately it seems to be working because the bot's comment has more likes than the original.
I think the stock position for the needle's clip, would be the middle one and these bikes are shipped, set for sea level. The average elevation in Wisconsin is 988 ft. above sea level with the minimum of 564 ft. and the maximum of 1,909 ft. At those elevations, you might consider placing the clip back in the second place from the top. The clip position doesn't affect wide open throttle position, but does at mid throttle positions. At wide open, the needle is out of the jet. I'd check to see what main and pilot jet recommendations for your elevation are as well. The best place to begin. I'm surprised that no one could diagnose and fix the problem. The bike finally ended up in the right hands, Joe the engineer, busman and "can do" mechanic. You're ruling out what isn't wrong and working your way down the list, repairing what is wrong. Won't be long 'till the bike is in tip top condition. Following this one. Great job Joe :)
I honestly think that you have a vacuum leak. Either from the carb itself or from the JB weld or one of the seals. It would explain why changing the jets did nothing. The more you rev the more air gets sucked in rather than creating a stronger vacuum which helps make more power.
Its carburetor
Need to change all the bearings and clean where all them metal shaving where clogged up bearings now working properly...well that's what I think buddy.....great video thanks for sharing 😊
14:10 Might need to tighten the plug, Joe!
Spark plug loose. When you take your head nuts loose do them a little at a time and in a pattern so you dont warp the head. That clutch basket is smoked, grooved out like crazy....probably should change crank seals while you are in there too. That wiseco crank /rod is garbage and will grenade in that motor. Good video!
Oh no the dreaded CLAW HAMMER
How dare he use a claw hammer as a “mechanic” hammer 🤣
Heck, I even asked him to tell me where I could send him a couple ball peens but, naturally, no response 😕
That's because he's God@@jangles1839
I got to thinking about this issue a bit. I once had a Kawasaki that was leaking between the cases. It took forever to figure it out. The Kawasaki was actually getting transmission oil into the crank case from a cracked case from a previous engine failure. Hope you figure it out.
I had the same problem with my rebuilt my 93 KX250 and at the end it was the carburetor and the coil the boot on the coil
Another user below commented about the hole through the side of the case above the crank at about 12 o'clock. I think they are right. Try taking that bolt out, start the bike and spray a quick shot of starting fluid or carb clean in there. If the motor revs, I think you found your problem, or at least one of the problems!
She’s asking for more fuel on the top end but your in the right direction
Good diagnosing Joe. I'm with you....powervalves still not right. I'm wondering if the spring tension is setup backwards. Not sure if you can do that on CR's but I know you can on RM's. Just a thought.
From experience working with 2 strokes I pretty much watched all you inspected the bike being as old as it is CDI Box gets weak over time it's in Fail Mode and check or replace stator and CDI Box under load the specs can change...
It could be a sticky governor. I had a '97 CR250 the 1st gen alu frame one and the power valve was so noisy I ended up removing it all. I believe it had the same cylinder head. It still runs nice, only the horse kick feeling was huge at around 6500 RPM. I used it all the way up in the RPM range, so it was not an issue for me but it was running crispy and was very responsive to throttle, not like this. Worth a try to remove the power valve, you do not have to remove the cylinder head for it, and let's hear how it sounds and responds to throttle. I would search the OEM carb settings and go from there also. Hope you will find the culprit of the issue.✌🏻🤞🏻
No clue what’s wrong but love your videos. Don’t you have a personal cr 250 you could try switching parts like stator or other items
Kinda looked like them power valves were backwards but you really need to visually check the wiring to yur stator both high n low speed coils n wiring between, I could put a meter on it n it would check out but at high rpms it would vibrate the break that I found in the wiring after removing them n found it! Sounds exactly as mine did until I fixed it which was just clipping the end where it was almost broken except fer like two wires n I re-soldered it n it was good as new! The wires were basically all touching at idle but when revved it would separate n break the current!
This ⬆️ ⬆️ Just like on the older watercraft that we would wrench on. Tested out OK but would break up when running/warm/vibration… Even though they tested OK.
@@ar2043 absolutely!!!
Just a thought? Coming from the snowmobile world of 2 strokes. I have a 2006 Arctic F7 EFI, and I was having a similar "Bog" issue, and the power valves are usually the culprit. But mine was only @at full throttle, whether it was from off the line or at speed. I had the power valves cleaned and adjusted and it was still there?? Clutching was another known issue for a "bog" issue, it checked out good too. I finally got an answer from a F7 guru, he says it's actually from the fuel pump and physical size of the fuel lines that caused this!! Too much fuel. This was an issue on F7'S after the 2003 model year due to a lot of F7's grenading due to being too lean! So, my point is, could it be a fuel pressure issue on yours?? Just a thought 🙂
Here's the deal you got JB weld on the bottom of the crank case. It could be leaking there. It clearly looked like the crank seal on the clutch side was deformed so it probably is leaking air there. It looked like the crank seal on the stater side was fine to me. I didn't see any sign of anything leaking out of it. But you don't know by just looking. You have to do a vacuum test or a pressure test ,one or the other to check for keaks.. And yes it looked like the governor's bad on your power valve or it's hanging up because of those old ass bearings.
I been saying that and still doesnt listen...
yea it does sound like the governor. I noticed the power valve has a consistant 1 second delay to fully open with a sudden hi rev
Along with air leaks 2strokes are sensitive to exhaust pipe and muffler. Not sure if you repacked the muffler packing or left it without the packing. Good luck with the bike, its way to nice to let it die
Hello, I agree with Hondadad that it may be the stator, the powervalve looked strange in operation, but try cleaning the airfilter, you may test with a short run without the filter ( clean surface, road) if that works clean filter in kerosene and after in Dawn and water, dry and reoil , hey it's cheap.
I've had the same on a similar age cr a couple of years a go, it was the carb, Keihin pj carbs were out causing needle to not work properly, Lund mx talked about this when building his 93 last year,
Power valve governor or bent power valve rod end that goes into the pin from the engine...it can bind if not perfect.
Hey!
Thing is with a stator, you can measure it all you want and get the right figures. But once its hot the resitance changes and you get a diffrent figure.
To be 100% sure on a stator that is "half bad" is just to get another one and test it.
Otherwise it could be a bad groundcable, or worsecase a bad cdi.
You should checkup on that jb-weld thing btw...
Gl!
I know the fellow goof with the plug but I think he's doing a good job at least he's willing to get in there and get his hands dirty and try,, most of the young people in my neck of the woods nowadays will hardly lay down the video games to get them a sandwich,, I love seeing young men who are willing to get out and do stuff like this, God bless stay safe out there, 😬🇺🇲
Governor, for sure, Joe, i had the same problem on a 96 Cr 250
Plug was rotating by itself @14:24 when revving the bike... :O