Final Drive Service & Shaft Check ... rusty splines? | 60,000 mile Service | 2016 BMW R1200RS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ธ.ค. 2022
- At 60,000 miles, this is the first re-check of the universal joints on my cardan shaft after first pulling the shaft over 19 months ago. I was anxious to see how my efforts at lubricating the splines in March 2021 held up, and what the condition of the joints was after 60,000 miles. I also had a split ring / circlip to install on the transmission spline.
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Grumpy Goat
/ grumpy%20goat
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Very clear and concise video on checking the drive shaft condition along with disassembly and reassembly. I am having my drive shafts on the RS and RT pulled every 24,000 miles to check condition and relube. I just had my mechanic pull the drive shaft on my 2022 R1250RT at 12,000 miles finding the splines were not adequately lubed with minimal rust. The charge at the dealership was $105 for doing this.
Great video, as always! Thanks for all the details and your thoughts, which are super helpful. 👍🏻
Well done! Very detailed. 👍
Awesome videos as usual. Your very talented.
Grumpy, another excellrnt video for our magnificents R1200 RS maintenance. Pls keep doing this good work, it helps and inspire us a lot to make our own servicings. I have to say that our shatfs are much more clean than GS,s , thats nornal becusse the type of usage.
To me ypurs looks almost perfect, no need check, altough lovely rubbing of all.parts
Another well filmed and detailed maintenance video.
Grumpy what "goop" did you use to seal the rubber boot? Just hope my spines are in such condition at 60k miles.
My 2018RS splines were dry from the factory best I can tell. I bought it this summer, used with 4K miles. No rust but the rear was pretty tight and no circlip ether, so the front pulled loose when I lowered the final drive. I had to take the drive unit off to separate the shaft. Wasn't too difficult. Getting the front to engage was a pain, I had to disconnect the rear shock and raise the swingarm with a jack to get things to line up better and used a long flat bar to lift the driveshaft into position. Struggled with it for several hours before it finally engaged. Next time I will try the string method. Maybe BMW was leaving the circlip off because it's really not needed and makes reassembly even more difficult.
You scared me about the split ring . Just put a new aftermarket greasaboe U-Joint drive shaft and think the ring was already on the shaft .
Thanks for the video . The clip goes in the front of the drive sharft . u wil see if u look in the front hub where the splins is , at the back in side is a groof . fit the clip in . ones u push the spline end in to the back of the drive sharft of the gearbox . take a rubber malat or wooden blok and tap it from the rear end of drive sharft . that clip is very important , it prevent the Drive sharft to move forward and back wards , when the swing Arm goes up and down . Kind Regards Michael .
Thanks for the comment and interest in complete installation, Michael.
I am aware of where the clip is supposed to go. My bike did not come with this clip from the factory and there were no issues. I agree that the angular movement of the swingarm results in an axial movement along the ends of the cardan shaft in way of the splines. On my bike without the clip there is simply movement on both ends. With the splines lubricated every 12000 miles this is not an issue, with the clip not installed. Not having the clip installed makes removal of the cardan shaft easier when I want to pull it and inspect its U-joints. And that is more important to me than having the clip in place. 👍
I can’t believe that after 50 years they still haven’t fixed this problem in 1971 i had a r 75 and the drive shaft splines failed had to haul it home 600 miles got rid of it and bought a Honda never looked back
I can only comment on the water-cooled boxers but their treatment of this issue has been less than satisfactory. They have now started to offer replacements for the GS and RT, but the RSs are treated on some sort of a BS mysterious way in that some people are being told they get their driveshaft replaced and others not. My bike has had 60k+ miles on the original driveshaft and BMW is yet to let me know that I am eligible for a free replacement. Even if I have to pay for replacements after that, I can understand, but so far nothing. Leaves a sour taste, that is for sure.
I used to do this with my k1200lt. I am glad to go back to a chain. I'm enjoying my Kawasaki Versys. Simple and inexpensive.
There is a lot to be said for the simplicity of a chain drive ... until you have to change the chain and sprockets 😉 The service on the shaft is a PITA but is not too hard once you have done it a time or two. Just takes time away from riding. OTOH, you don't have to even think about the drive train for 12k miles (that is 24 lubes and many cleanings of a chain)
@@GrumpyGoat 6 in one half dozen of the other. 🙂🙃
I watched another video on this subject and the split ring is inside the drive shaft end that installs over the output shaft.
Yes that is correct. Or it can be put on the forward spline and then pushed in, but as I believe I said in the video, putting it in would make pulling out the shaft difficult the way I do it so I will continue to forego the clip.
Hi, I enjoyed the video, just one pointer, like you I thought 'no split ring', but on closer inspection the split ring is actually installed internally on the spline of the drive shaft that is why you could not get the shaft onto the gearbox shaft.
Hi John - Glad you enjoyed the video. There seems to be a little confusion here, though. On my bike there is no split ring inside the gearbox female end - it did not come with one, either on the male spline of the cardan shaft or inside the female end of the joint at the gearbox. I felt for it with my finger when I first pulled the shaft at 48k.
The reason why I fight (a little) to get the front end of the cardan shaft into the gearbox female is because of the floppy nature of the joint and the weight of the shaft and the tight access, which all make the alignment tricky. It is not because there is a split ring in there since there is none. One aligned right it is very smooth to go in (or out). 🙂
Hi Grumpy. I have a very reason for asking are the splines the exact size front and back? Regards....Dave.
David, this is hard to say since the shaft is in the bike at the moment. When you say “size”, what do you mean? Diameter? Length? Teeth, number and depth (not to mention shape). No way to know without having the driveshaft out and taking very specific measurements, and even then tooth shape would not be easily measurable. One thing I can say is the gearbox and has a groove for a circlip so that spline is most likely not the same length as that on the final drive end.
I would not remove the circlip. I just did this service on my 07 GSA and pulled the swingarm to re-install the driveshaft. Upper shaft IMO only needs service every 24k miles or so.
Noted, regarding the circlip. I would not remove it either.
There is a reason I choose to do the shaft service every 12k on my RS, and that is now validated by BMW “quietly” bringing back the bikes in my year for a change to the shaft at no cost to the customer.
Do you have a video of properly replacing the battery for the bike?
Hehe … don’t know about “properly”, but I do have a video showing how I did it, and that is properly for me. 😁 BTW, you can find the video by searching for “battery” and selecting the one for the R1200RS. Here it is:
Battery Replaced - Installation of the Yuasa GYZ16H AGM Battery
th-cam.com/video/8hCEUH80gKA/w-d-xo.html
Posted your video on a forum to help another person and someone said this about the Snap Ring.
''There is definitely a cir-clip on my DS on the GS
That's why they have the groove
It isn’t on the output spline it is inside the UJ connector.''
So it appears the snap ring is inside the ''U'' Joint and not locks but holds the shaft in place on the output shaft spline. I would say that you DO have the snap ring, but just can not see it unless you look INSIDE the ''U'' joint itself.
Thanks for sharing the video. 👍 It has been established for some time now that some RSs *do not* have the clip fired from the factory. This was confirmed by a BMW technician telling one of my friends who also owns an RS. My bike did not come with a clip fitted. If there was one inside the transmission output shaft I’d feel it when inserting the forward spline of the cardan shaft. There would have to be some sort of “click” as the forward spline goes through and the clip seats in the groove on the forward spline. This does not happen in my case.
Have you had the rubber breather installed yet and the drive line test done? When installing the rubber valve, does it snap in and stays in tight? A few people have mentioned the valve installed was very loose and one persons somehow got pushed inside the housing because of no lip on each side to hold it. Another said. ''the rubber valve they install is crap, any external pressure dislodges the valve internally leaving an open hole''. Sounds like they fall off?
I have not been invited to have the rubber valve installed and, based on what you have said, it’s sounds like it is more of a dumb solution than I already believed. I would not be pursuing this “solution” unless invited. As you can see from my videos, I have no water accumulation on my swing arm, and that is after washing regularly including with a pressure washer. People just have to use their brains when washing in the area *and* they need to ensure that the rubber gaiter is properly installed and sealed as well as possible. The joint is weathertight when done properly (not watertight) but when installed properly is fit for purpose. The duck bill valve is just another complication to try and minimize rust on the rear splines which could be managed with regular servicing as I am doing.
@@GrumpyGoat Thanks for your reply. Some have said that this new breather falls off easy, so must be careful when washing. I think I would pass on this mod, also people have said when they drill the housing, some have big scratches left behind.
@@ericjames7680 Wouldn't be hard to glue it on after the fact.
Obviously in order to assemble with the snap ring you have too insert the ring in the inside diameter of the drive shaft. It would be impossible to assemble the way you tried. All that aside. Thanks for your efforts 21:50
Thanks for your comment but I don’t agree with you. Just to let you know, several RS owners who I know and respect have reported that their bike *did not* come with a split ring, while others did.
I will admit I could have tried harder to install the clip, but I was inclined to not bother since it was not a problem up to that point, and removal would be made unnecessarily more difficult, and it was my intent to remove it every 12k miles.
@@GrumpyGoat I believe the ring can get destroyed at dis assembly. This would explain why some claim it never was on their machine. In your video when you dropped the final drive down the shaft released from up top. A clip would have prevented that. Operating without the clip may put forces on the final drive that engineers avoided with the retaining clip.
@@chuckgenaro4373, have you actually done this on this bike? The clip cannot be destroyed *at all*. It is not made of weak plastic; it’s a thick steel ring. Pulling the shaft out with a steel circlip in place cannot destroy the circlip. It would either stay in place inside the gearbox end, or it would come out still attached to the driveshaft spline. Intact.
In my case, originally the driveshaft slid out of the gearbox end *without any hint of resistance*, i.e. there was nothing there to hold it back. Also, a friend informed me that his BMW master mechanic of 30-some odd years confirmed to him that some of them come without the circlip.
So, my experience is that mine did not come with a circlip, others on the Forum have said theirs did not have one, and the master mechanic said he has seen bikes without this part. I don’t know what else I can tell you.
This discussion has run its course, thanks.
@@GrumpyGoat I found my clip. It had remained hidden in the inside diameter grooved undercut, covered in moly grease. It should reassemble the same way. This bike is a 2014 R1200GS. This is the second time I’ve done this however the fist time I did not remove the shaft, I was afraid to pry it past the retaining clip. That’s why I was watching your video, to remove the shaft completely. Thanks again for all your efforts
The purpose of the lock ring is to prevent the drive shaft to slide in and out from the output transmission shaft
Only the final drive end slides in and out of the drive shaft(pinion shaft).
The movement is so little,one end is held stationary and only the rear of the drive shaft with pinion final drive floats.
If You look at a rear drive car, there is a sleeve with a grease fitting that slides in and out as the droop of the rear end changes the length of drive shaft.
Put that lock ring back and prevent the drive shaft to walk back and forth.
the ring is probably on the splined sleeve, that's why you couldn't install the cardan shaft.
I may have mentioned (repeatedly) there was no ring installed on my bike from the factory. Neither on the male or female end of the connection at the transmission end of the cardan shaft. Others have reported similarly. A friend said his trusted BMW technician told him he has seen bikes without the ring installed.
Without the ring the cardan shaft is more easily installed and removed.
Thanks for the comment. Sorry if I seem defensive but there is another viewer who insists I must not know what I see / feel in front of me, arguing that the ring has to be there - on my own bike!
I actually have a set of 3 videos which I did around 48k where I discussed this absence of ring. I have since decided I don’t want the ring on my bike. It works just fine without it. I have also decided to pull the shaft every 12k miles for inspection. Lack of ring makes that job easier. I also have a new shaft sitting on the shelf.
Thanks
I’m from Brazil, and here we have a lot humidity, so i inspect ir every 10k km.
@@rafael45357 I’m not inspecting it for rust on the spline. I am inspecting it to see the condition of the universal joint. These have failed in many bikes Anna that is my primary concern. Cleaning the spline of rust and relubricating the spline is just an incidental maintenance step for me. Neither are called for by BMW as part of scheduled maintenance.
@@GrumpyGoat here in Brazil we have had several cases where the rear splined axle is welded because it lacks lubrication and humidity.
Thanks
@@rafael45357 I can well imagine. Good to inspect and lube periodically.
Get a new one now that BMW replaces them every 60,000 kms or 37,300 Miles
Not that easy. I am waiting for a letter, but not holding my breath. So far, not pleased by how BMW NA is handling this issue. The chances are high that I’ll not be buying another [shaft-driven] BMW.
Vai te não mostras a fazer o trabalho.
Hey do you still like your sidici strata 2 or you got rid of it and if not how you like vs the shoei rf-1400? Or you use both for what? I just ordered my rf-1400 and another sidici animale graffics but thinking or canceling the sidici because I already have a white strata 2 what toy think keep both or return cause I already have a sidici but It's XXL and I'm xl
I still have the Sedici Strada II Primo Carbon helmet, but hardly wear it since getting the Shoei RF-1400.
The Sedici is still a great helmet and represents a great value, but the Shoei is a better helmet that has better aerodynamics. At lower speeds it is similar, when you turn your head from side to side but say at 60 mph or more the Sedici will pull more when you turn your head. The Shoei flows more air as well. I should use the Sedici more especially when commuting to work but I don't have a photochromatic shield for it and I leave for work in the dark. I don't swap visors.
If you are getting an RF-1400 and already have a Strada 2 that is too big, then I'd suggest getting the Strada 2 in XL if you really want a second helmet with graphics and get rid of the too-big XXL. Better to have a proper fitting helmet since it is, primarily, a safety item not a fashion statement.
@@GrumpyGoat thanks