Auto Body Repair: How to remove dents in aluminum Part 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2019
- Soft Body Dolly: www.proshaper.com/product/sof...
In this video Wray instructs how to remove high spots and dents in aluminum using simple metal shaping tools. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Thank you Wray for sharing your knowledge with us. Learning skills on youtube is so much more pleasant than watching television!!!!
Wray I’ve been watching your videos for 3 or 4 years and revisit. I’ve used your techniques repairing my series 3 E left wing which crushed in 1.5” and looked like a bag of walnuts. After 75 to 80 hours the wheel arch is where it needs to be and a skim coat of glazing putty to finish it off. Love the shrinking disc. Miss new content.
Good afternoon Wray, more good stuff. Now, another use for the denibing sander, who knew!! Thanks for sharing your expertise. Your videos speak volumes for metal shapers every where. You take care.
Thanks Steve!
That's a brilliant explanation and demonstration! Quite rare too! Great video!
Excellent demonstration, Thanks Wray.
Man...I wish I had this Knowledge back in the 70's when I was doing the Bodywork on my '54 Chevy Van! I struggled & struggled with trying to Make Perfect all the Small Dings. I was using Bondo at the time and could not figure out how to get the Compound Curves back...no matter what I tried, they were Flat on top!! After I Painted the Van you could see all the Repairs in the light...ugh!!! It was, after all, my first attempt at Body Work as a Teenager!!! LoL
As a newbie, learned some great processes. Thanks.
I’m a painter but Love Learning metalwork THANKS 💪💪
Congratulations on the work and demonstration of the whole process of correcting the high and low points. I am restoring an old Volkswagen Beetle at home and had problems with high points on one of the sides. I looked for some explanation on the internet, but unfortunately few show so many details. Thanks.
Great video quality! Makes a huge difference in understanding what's being done.
Looking good Wray!
Thanks Wray - great video as I have struggled with getting those little blemishes out. Heading to the shop!
Impressive! I have plans to replace all plastic covers on a motorcycle with aluminium, if I find a workshop that I can rent. For now, I want to start practicing with small pieces in my basement...
Great tips thanks Wray!
great video , patience is the key.
Awesome stuff Wray! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks!
Amazingly informative. Have always struggled with reaching that level of perfection. I have some guards to build in the coming months and this will be a massive help ✌🏻
Nice stuff Ray! Thanks
Terrific tutorial - thanks!
23 minutes in is gold star material.
Years ago I saw an old film showing damage repair being done in the 1930's (+/-) A right front fender had been crunched and it was repaired without taking it off the car. They took the tire off and then used a hand held planishing hammer. it looked like a big C-clamp and they planished the fender very quickly, looked good when they were done. No kidding, hand held.
I have one.
Wray, thank you! It was very usefull!!!
you're an excellent teacher Wray thank you for this vid!!
Thanks, I wish I had more time to do videos.
@@proshaper well? everyone should understand, that someone with your skill is going to be as busy as they care to be :) I certainly appreciate your time spent on these.
I"m about to tackle a 1958 Lone Star aluminum boat that has several dented spots, and researching every tech vid I can. Hoping a slapper will be up to the task of smoothing a hull that I am positive is much thicker metal than this Lotus fender you demonstrated on....
Great video Wray! Did you have to anneal the aluminum first? And dose shrinking with the torch keep the medal annealed as you work the aluminum?
Hi Scott, thanks! That area I was working was super crumpled when Harvey first brought the Lotus to the shop. As I mentioned in the video I had used the torch on the area to remove the crumpled condition. The aluminum is .050" and moves easily annealed or not. I didn't anneal the spot to soften but with the initial torch heating and what you have seen in the video, it is possibly annealed.
Very nice demonstration. I really could appreciate it even more if you had a straight edge or something to really show the hump then the shrinkage that you acquired. Never the less thanks!
What alloy is the panel made from? Have tou used a wood shrinking disk? Thank you for the great video!
Hi Randy, I can only guess that the body is 3003. I wouldn't try a wood shrinking disc too dangerous.
Hey Wray, does the slapper have to be out of spring steel or will mild steel do? I have a Snap-On slapper but I'd like to have some with different curvatures.
A slapper should be made out of spring steel. Mild steel will mark up and transfer the marks to the sheet metal panel.
Hi Wray, great video. Can you use the same technique on steel to shrink high spots with the bag and slapper. so mant different ways it leaves me a bit confused as to the best way to do it.
Hi Brian, Thanks! I use the torch on both steel and aluminum. On steel I use my ProShaper shrinking disc for the last bit. If the steel panel is over 1/16" high I use the torch, the last 1/16" I use the shrinking disc. I will do several shrinking disc videos. An aluminum panel could be two inches higher and you can bring it to perfection with the torch, slapper, and ProShaper hand held shot bag.
Hi Wray
Really enjoy your videos. Helps keep the enthusiasm going when you get a good tip on how to do something.
When you use the torch on steel do you use the slapper and shot bag in the shrinking process?
Thanks from Australia
@@garrymcdonald7994 on steel if a area is over a 1/16" high I will torch shrink first using my Snap On body hammer, then I will use the shrinking disc to perfect the surface. When I get to the shrinking disc stage I use my slapper and hard dollies.
Do you use same panel beating tools on steel and aluminium hammers and dolly’s etc I mean cheers
Yes.
Thanks mate
Wray, have you ever used a lead slapper? My father worked at North American Aviation making wing skins for F86 fighters. He insisted that they used broad lead slappers to form those skins over bucks.
Hi, I have never tried a lead slapper. I would guess just the working face was a lead/tin alloy. I'll have to try that.😁😁😁
Wray Schelin's Pro Shaper Sheet Metal LLC
How did it work??
@@bstevermer9293 Haven't tried the lead faced slapper yet.
You don't like the bullseye pics? Great video.
I have never tried a bullseye pic, I really don't see the need. You only use one because it lines up the fulcrum( the pic) automatically. If you use a dolly and slapper like I show in the video you can see where the fulcrum (dolly) is at all times. The dolly also allows for off dolly (arrangement) work at the same time.
good video, there would be an opportunity to go to you to study
I want to build a 1930s bugatti soo bad. But with a more modern engine/drivetrain. Since ill never be able to afford any 30s race car let alone a Bugatti. Maybe but till then just starting to fix rust on my rare toyota alltrac