Restoration 101: Bending the Radius and Dent Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
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Bending the Radius and Dent Repair
In this installment of our Restoration 101 series we have a Jaguar 150 OTS door that after removing the paint and cleaned up the rust, saw a great amount of rot on the bottom of the door skin. So Wray decided to cut the bottom half of the Jaguar door. So now he cuts out a template of the door skin, and cuts a piece of sheet metal larger than the template for "cheat room" and leverage. Using two thin strips of sheet metal he marks the radius of the door in the front and rear. Puts the marks on the sheet metal and using things everyone has in their shop bends the radius. Now that Wray has access with a dolly, he uses a slapper to take out the dents in the door. If there are any high spots Wray uses his shrinking disc and a bottle of soapy water to bring the high spots down.
Email: Wray@Proshaper.com
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Mark, your video skills are outstanding. Riding audio levels as you do makes it a pleasure to watch Wray do his thing.
"Grunting helps" another great T shirt logo! My first brake was an 8' I beam on legs it's nice to see a basic way of doing things Wray.
That’s one I definitely couldn’t pick up. Way too much paperwork to fill out when I wear it in to work 🤣.
Into my early 60's, never a body hammer or dolly guy, I enjoy the knowledge, tools and techniques. Getting comfortable with your position will produce better results, something a service tech will not have, as we are on the move. Don't think for one minute that the video is too long as this simply weeds out those who may not achieve a level of skill, muscle memory and they ability to plan. This is video #4 on this door and never missed a minute. I may never physically be able to do the body work but knowing how is comforting!
DK, retired.
Quickly learning that metal work requires knowledge, patience and determination. If any are missing the results are mediocre. Thanks for the tutorials!
Wray!You re perfectly unique guy!!!
I like the Sandlas with the black Sox grate styling! And my knees sounds like your grunting 😆
Very informative and entertaining
Thanks, Wray, and Mark, for taking the time, effort and skill to bring us these techniques. I learn something new every video, and appreciate what you do! -Don
I spoke too soon about pipes, I like the adjust abilities of you tube set up
احب هذا العمل وأنا أتابعك من العراق / البصرة...مع تحياتي ....البهادلي
Thanks!
Thanks, Ray.
"That's dedication. (pause) It could be craziness, too". Crazy like a fox, I say. Outstanding video, guys. Thank you so much.
That second video I've come across in the last couple weeks that gave me an ahhah eureka moment. I like how you used a stripe of metal scrape to measure the the radius that you can use to check the radius if need and transfer marks. I've always just used a seamstress flexible measuring tape.
metal finish versus filler finish master course. My grandad was RCAF airframe mechanic and sheet metal lifer he would talk about the way things were done when he learned versus todays production shops
I love learning about your methods. A huge thank you to both you and Mark for putting in the hours.
Hi Wray and Mark, you guys always make good videos and teach me and a lot of people around the world. I hope someday I'll head to Massachusetts for taking your classes.
The simpler the method the better for me. Great video.
Hi Wray, very enjoyable and insightful video. I'm about to start a 54 Dodge Royal Sport Coupe. It's rare so good parts are hard to find so I'll be using some of your techniques, so thank you!
Are there follow up videos for the Restoration 101 series on the 150 fender?
Hi Wray, Some of the paintless dent removal crowd use an induction heating device. Must not use too much heat or paint will blister. I use it on bare panels and can heat very precisely quickly and if needed to dull red. Can take the place of both oxy and s/disk. It is very quick, quiet, and precise. Chinese of course are making cheap models of what the Swiss/French originally developed. They put out about 1Kw of electromagnetic heating into about a half inch circle. One model for steel and anther for Al. (Different frequencys)
Thanks, I'll look into it.
That is a 56 Chev front fender. I really enjoy your video's, can't wait for your shrinkers I ordered to get here.
You could use a fixture made of different round pipe/tube with space between pipes for sheet metal to lock into
Great video Wray! Thanks for taking the time to make them.
Hi Joe, Thanks! You are do for a return to the shop.
Another great episode. Thanks Wray (oh, and you Mark!!!!)
Thoroughly enjoyed and learnt a lot, thanks from the Isle of Man.
Thank you for your time. I have learn a lot this evening. Ronnie.
Great video, things I wished I learned/known about years ago. Thanks
Absolutely brilliant to watch and always appreciated thank you.......oh and yeah, 'grunting helps' fabulous line! 😁
Made my flapper from a old leaf spring in 1978 . UK . Bulls eye pick ? I used 1 inch chisel point to pick up , panel beater for 35 years .
Awesome! Thank you! Covell demonstrated a similar method. With a pipe clamped tangentially over the bend line, he forms the radius by lifting the sheetmetal upwards to form the radius. Your method, however, has the advantage of bending asymmetrical radii and requires less tooling and fixtures.
Great stuff as always Wray.. I missed out on a new project car last week, but hopefully another will come up soon so I can put all this good info to use.
There is so much excellent content here, I love it!
Thanks. JIM
I have made phenolic lower dies and used a rubber caster for the top wheel and made 4”and 2” radius bends with the English wheel.
Yes, I do that as well. Works good.
Enjoying your videos. Would like to see one on MIG welding a patch, planishing as you go, and then grinding to a finish. The steps and the "how too" are difficult for me to get right. Thanks.
Hi 8man, I'm not a advocate of mig welding for automotive panel welding. Watch some of my tig welding videos and you might consider tig. They used to be very expensive but now you can buy a very good steel only tig welder for sheet metal up to 3/16" thick for $200.00. I have one in my Amazon store www.amazon.com/shop/proshaper. Check out my other 185 videos at my TH-cam homepage th-cam.com/users/proshaper
Excellent really helpful thanks Wray
Excellent stuff!
Your work and presentation is always stellar! That particular door was a good choice for this series; more than challenging and with numerous diverse issues.
Thanks Ray...great video
Is a bigger grinder shrinking disc better than a smaller?? I got only a 5 inch grinder. Is a 9 inch better or what is your opinion on that angle??
Just want to say thanks for the awesome knowledge you spread over the world.
Hi Kulan, I use my 9" shrinking disc which is mounted on a 9" grinder 95 percent of the time. I only use the 5" disc in small tight areas that the 9" won't be able to access. That said a lot of my customers buy the 5" disc because they only want to use it on a few dents and they don't want to buy a 9" grinder.
A great video as usual , but the whole thing would have been very hard to follow without the excellent lighting and camera work that really made the process pop out and the parts that were being talked about became very easy to see , well done Mark.
Also really appreciated that your doing it all in a way that can be replicated at home.
Would you be able to mark the radius on the paper pattern or is the method with the two strips a better way? It seems like an extra step. Thanks again for sharing your experience and expertise you are a great Mentor.
I'm not understanding what you are asking?
i think you would've had more control without the packing blanket between the table and the metal. you could really see where the line was. i would have marked both sides of the metal, clamped a heavy metal bar, plywood on both sides of the side you're going to bend down on to hold your stop and start points of the bend. if it look too crisp or sharp, you can soften it up easily. you can even move your stop and start points if you needed to 1/6" or even an 18" to fit the ends better when you bring the two together. wipe away your old marks, make some new more accurate ones now that you know where things are really going to hit. great work going on in your shop. sometimes these dreaded steps like these that have to be done, a person puts them off (me) and then when you finally go for it, it gets done more easily than you thought it might. thanks for the post.
Thank you.
Try dykem liquid and thin it 50 to 75% with acetone. I use it on gelcoat as a dye coat. You can tell when alk tve 400 grit scratches are gone as well as anything bigger. Wipe it with a rag.
Really enjoyed this teaching, the shrinking disc is truly an asset I need to purchase a set. What rpm range do you recommend the shrinking discs be used at.?
9" 4500 to 6500 rpm no load. 5" 8000 to 13000 rpm no load
Another great video! Thank you for sharing the knowledge.
I do have a question. I bought someone else’s project. They had the car sand blasted. The truck deck is all kinds of warped where there is no inner structure. Can I just use the small shrinking disc from the back side to push the metal back up? Knock it back up with the soap bar then shrink it back down?
What is your recommendation to fix this?
Thank you for teaching us the right ways to fix our cars!
The shrinking disc will help, yes you can use it on both sides of the panel. First move the metal as much as possible with a slapper and dolly, then finess with a shrinking disc.
Another great clip, thanks wray.
Would it also be ok to remove a door skin to get access for dent removal??
Keep up the great work
Yes, that is a possibility. If you take the damaged skin off it might make more sense to make a complete new skin.
i wish am still young i do body work but never ur style thanks
Finished restoration 101! Next up is the Tig Welding series! #bingingproshaper
Ey Wray, I think that Chevy front fender is from a 1956 Chevy. My first car was a 1955 Chevy Belaire
My first car was a 1955 Belair Chevrolet, I bought it when I was 12 in 1963. In 1967 my high school car was a 55 Nomad wagon.
In the factory, bodies in white are checked by rubbing 1x10" triangular stones across the body. Defects that won't hide with paint/ecoat stand out in the pattern of scratches from the stones.
There is something to be said about getting comfortable. If you are in an ergonomically uncomfortable position, you won't have as much patience.
How many hours are going to be in this door being patched and all the dents removed, cleaning etc.
There will be at least 20 to 30 hrs to make this door correct. Remember this was a fairly decent door when I started. A really trashed door would take more time and by the time you were done you might come to the conclusion you might have been better if you scratch-built a new one.
While bending that metal, you remind me a lot of my chiropractor
Looking forward to the next episode in this series. Do you have a tuit shortage?
Hi Wray, as far as the radius of the bend is concerned, why can you not use a tailor's measuring tape? I use it with quite some success.
Yes. As I say there are always at least four ways to do any human task that work very well.
Thank you. A glassfibre tape is the best for virtually no stretching.
Are all these techniques applicable to aluminum panels, I have just bought a series 3 Landrover and both front wings have crush damage on the front corners, nearly 2" deep on one side.
That’s a 56 Chevy I believe
Wray,
It appears you have mixed soap with the water in your spray bottle. If so, what importance does this have on the shrinking process? Thanks for your response.
The soap allows you to slide your hand on the panel to feel for flaws. It also is wetter when soap is present. The soapy water cycles the heat away quicker. If there is any heat present the heat will cause the panel to be still high from thermal expansion.
I've seen sand blasted car panels like that 1955 fender, and where I was once working ,they had a couple of casuals whose sole job was to go over the surfaces with 3M purple pads to knock the roughness off.
Wray Do you ever work with a slapper file? What do you use them for and what is the advantage or disadvantage to slapping a dent With that tool?
I never use any tool that marks the metal. A slapper file marks the metal and helps you find the highs and lows. I use a polished slapper and one of my shrinking discs to correct surfaces.
Excellent video Wray.
Thanks so much for sharing the knowledge.
Q what do yo recommend when it comes to the shrinking disc?
The larger 225 mm approx 10" inch or the smaller 125 mm 7" inch
Hi Michael, I make both, the 9" shrinking disc and I was the first to make the smaller 5" disc. I was the first to make the shrinking discs with a smooth face and safe edge. I have been making and selling them all over the world since 2000. I personally use the 9" disc the most, I use the 5" to get into tighter spots and reverse curve areas. you can purchase them on my website www.proshaper.com
So if I am doing a bit of restoration as a hobby can I get by with the smaller 5" as you suggest that may be more versatile?
Further question: Do you put the shrinking disk on a grinder or a polisher?
Hi Henri, A polisher does not turn fast enough. It has to be a grinder.
@@proshaper Of course. Did not think of that. After all, we want heat, don't we...
I have stupid question. what that water in the foxy ?
Surprised u didn’t use heat on the top ones, they probably would have poped out
I would have used a shrinking/slapping "file" to slap those dents out. kills two birds with one stone.
What rpm does the shrinking disc run at? Is that a standard 9''grinder or polisher
The 9" shrinking disc must be used on a grinder. Most electric grinders turn at 4500 to 6500 RPM with no load. A polisher/sander generally run at under 3000 RPM. They won't be effective. My 5" shrinking disc will run on most 4", 4.5", and 5" grinders
I would have thought a length of 4x2 clamping down with the 2" face laying on the sheet laying on the table would free up both hands the gradually wotk the edge over would be easier. Working it a liitle ate a time and gradually moving the sheet out from the table. The the next thing you know you kind of did that.
I was thinking something similar, but also with a length of pipe clamped to the edge to give a nice easy curve.
I usually use my radius bending tool to make that radius. I can also use my tipping wheel with rubber wheels. I thought the edge of the bench with a blanket on it would have wide appeal.
@@proshaper Certainly makes for convenience!
Cutting out the dent .... would that work on a model a front fender tail where the dent is the side, transition to the running board is pushed in an inch? I was thinking about sectioning in the last 10" or so.
I would have to see the dent.
Wray you said you guys work until 10 pm, how many hours a day do your guys put in?
I come in at 9:00am and leave usually around 10:30pm everyday including holidays and weekends. Mark works 36 hrs a week at my shop but he also has a part time job and is a volunteer fire fighter.
@@proshaper Holy cow! I'm 2 years younger than you and I think it would kill me to work those kind of hours.
@@toolmike100 when you do what you like most of the time it is not work, it is life passing by. Life passing by can't be stopped so you might as well have fun on the journey.
Patent or pattern
That’s a 1956 Chevy fender
I think you're right, because it has a peak on the top. My first car was a 55 Chevy I bought for $50.00 in 1963 when I was 12. It had a 265 that was worn out, I rebuilt it. In high school a few years later I had a 1955 Nomad wagon 265 automatic with electric windows and electric seat. That set me back $350.00 when I bought it in 1967.
👍👏👏
Its 2021 and my country is stock on oxy acetylene weld. 🙄😏
Your no expert, just got skillz so you don't have a need to be saying your an expert or professional, I dislike when people act like there some expert and say yrs of experience, keep that to yourself