Installing Camshaft & Rockers on CB750 SOHC Engine | Honda Cafe Racer Build Project Bike | 20

Installing Camshaft & Rockers on CB750 SOHC Engine | Honda Cafe Racer Build Project Bike | 20
Now I have started to put the engine together for my Honda CB750 Cafe Racer project. I am at the stage of reinstalling the camshaft and rockers.
What I used:
Honda Bond 4 Sealant: ebay.us/iWIEhV
Torque Wrench ½”: ebay.us/N3DaQS
Torque Wrench 3/8”: ebay.us/kJRsSF
Torque Wrench ¼”: ebay.us/AUgpRz
Having replaced the head of my cafe racer project bike, I now needed to install the camshaft and rockers.
Before the camshaft can go in, the cam carriers need to be put back in. These have oil ways within them, and also have seals that go under them to stop oil coming out of the head. The main ones are known as pucks and they fill the holes that some of the head bolts go through. There are six of them and I used Honda Bond to seal them. They are known as a place where leaks can occur so I was very careful to make sure they would be well sealed.
There are also 4 small o rings that go under the carriers, 2 around the oil jets, and 2 in the blind spaces where the oil ways from the oil jets get to the other end of the carrier. These also need sealing well as they do have oil under pressure going through them when the engine is running.
Overall the job went very well. I was a little concerned that the threads where the carriers bolt to might fail if I torqued them too tight. This is another common problem that people have rebuilding these engines. I decided to go for the middle of the torque range setting them to 10 nm. At first I was going to be brave and go to the top of the range, but I chickened out once I had the torque wrench in my hand.
When installing the cam it is important that the crankshaft and the camshaft are in the right position when the cam chain is put on. If they aren’t it can cause engine damage. It is quite easy, first you put the crank so that the TDC 1 and 4 cylinder mark is lined up under the points cover, then the cam has two marks across it, and another thicker mark at right angles. The two marks match the joint on the cam carrier and the cap, with the thicker mark facing upwards. You may have to fiddle with the chain to get the sprocket into the right position, but it is quite easy.
The final part of this would setting the valve clearances, but this requires the cam chain tensioner to be put back in. I still need to clean some of the covers on the engine with the starter cover being one of them. The cam chain tensioner makes this cover difficult to get out so I am going to leave putting it back in and doing the clearances until I have finished that.
I should have the engine back in the bike soon. I have had this bike insured for nearly a year, I do hope I get to ride it before the insurance runs out :)
For more helpful how-to guides and restoration project logs, visit our blog: www.spannerras...
As an Amazon Associate, Ebay Partner and Awin Affiliate, we earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. Some of our links are affiliate links, and if you decide to purchase things through them, we earn a small commission. It costs you nothing but helps us to keep the content coming. Thanks for your support!

[@zzzarybaxz]

Hi. you bought the camshaft at dk motorcycles spares, I also buy parts there, I have it close so I go there personally, 😎🏍🏍

[@SPANNERRASH]

I have had a few things from them, overall I have been very happy with what I have had. Must be great to be able to look before you buy. Good luck.

[@zzzarybaxz]

@@SPANNERRASH Yes I can watch and I still have a good price as a regular customer :)

[@codyjarrett9685]

Hi what year is this engine

[@SPANNERRASH]

Pretty sure it is a '78. The bottom end is an F2, but the top end is now from a K8.

[@matthewsmith1925]

Hi, fantastic videos. I recently bought a cb750k3 U.S. import and there are two wires forking off the main harness near the front (green/yellow stripe and a black near the coil pack area. Could you advise what they might be? Many thanks

[@SPANNERRASH]

You should be able to get a wiring diagram of one of the forums, which could help. But from what you describe I would suggest that they are for the front brake light switch which is usually a hydraulic switch coming of the line below the steering head. Good luck.

[@matthewsmith1925]

@@SPANNERRASH Thanks that’s great, it makes sense as I’ve taken the front brake and master cylinder off so didn’t correlate! 👍