excellent step by step explanation of teaching the whoa command that makes complete sense to the novice trainer. thank u for clarifying a process that has always seemed so complicated
Thanks. Like most of dog training, it's not difficult to obtain a high level of performance if you just take your time and slowly progress from step to step using what I refer to as the 3D's of dog training: distance (whoaing further and further from you), duration (whoaing longer and longer), and distractions (whoaing under a variety of situations that encourage you to break)!
Hey Mark I love your videos, great content, thank you. I do have a question. In May my pudelpointer turned 2. I have only been working him on wild birds until now. I have a remote bird launcher, and 2 cages that you step on handle to raise so the bird can fly. I also have the Garmin 200i set up with both the momentary and continuous settings. On the flank I was taught to use the continuous to teach whoa without a verbal commands. Not sure how I transition to the neck with the continuous number one and secondly if there are multiple birds in the area why would you not steady to wing and shot? Yesterday was the opener to woodcock and we flushed 10 birds and got one. Sometimes he would hold point if I was right there and others he would break and flush as I was not near him. Plus he is so excited when in the area with sent that he is all over at a high speed flushing birds. Can you give me some pointers? Thank you so much.
@@craighalbohm7244 Lots to discuss here if I’m going to provide any meaningful and detailed answers. Email me at payton1221@yahoo.com if you’re interested in a telephone or video conference.
@@Payton1221Mark, Thank you so much for getting back to me. You made my day as I am feeling a little discouraged with what I need to do. I will email you. Where are you located?
Hey Mark so as this is a real important part of my training right now I am continously watching this video. So you mention two collarsto be used. Do you ever transition from the flank to the neck? Do you use momentary or continuous corrections? Would I therefore have to use the flank collar all the time when hunting, if you don transition to the neck? Being I now have access to pigeons can I tie surveyors tape to a leg or use another option to get the pigeons back as I do not have homing pigeons
That's an easy way to introduce the command: whoa before going outside or whoa before being released to eat and it MIGHT make the process go faster when it's time to go to the Buddy Stick or checkcord.
I realise you released this a few years ago, so may not look back, but I've two questions. I see this command working but I'm not sure why it's used or why it's important. I've had two Vizslas, but neither were used /trained for hunting. Now I'm looking to get another and definitely want to train it. I'm not a hunter due to vision problems, but if I fully understand the training, I can probably do most of it, and maybe there will be someone who can take care of actually seeing/shooting the game. In any case, thank you for the video.
Many dogs can be serviceable gundogs without ever learning the word whoa, but whoa is needed for those who want their dog to stand steady to wing and shot or for those dogs that just need help in planting their feet at the scent of a bird.
Most of the dog supply houses (Gun Dog Supply, Lion Country, Dogs Unlimited, etc.) sell these bags. I have a few local sources for pigeons, but I routinely check Craigslist too.
Why do you wait until after the first season to do this training? I have a 1 year old wirehair that I train with pigeons and quail, he's very confident and trainable - I feel like he would benefit from this at this stage, but was curious if there's a reason I'm not thinking of by waiting?
It can be done but if you teach it then you're going to want to use it. Right? So when will you use it and what will you do if the excitement at that moment (maybe like AROUND BIRDS) causes him to come unglued? So it's the dogs first season and some owners may apply too much pressure (either physical, electrical, or just plain vocal), and if they do, then those owners just might convince their dogs that hunting birds just isn't that much fun.
Yes, but many, if not most, hunters only require that a dog be staunch, ie, that the dog remain pointed until they flush the birds. There are pros and cons to having a staunch dog, and there are pros and cons to having a steady dog (ie, one that remains stationary even after the birds have flown). I mention in my steady to wing and shot video that you wouldn’t want your dog to chase during this training if you are going to steady the dog later.
@@Payton1221 thanks Mark. What should I do differently if I want to teac my dog to stay steady to flush, shot and fall? Should I prevent the dog from chasing?
@@patricelapointe8550 Watch my steady to wing and shot video. It all starts with a SOLID, S-O-L-I-D(!!!), understanding of what whoa means and your ability to enforce it via the belly band. But, yeah, you don't want to allow him to chase when you introduce birds during the whoa training. That's one time when a helper and a checkcord can assist you and your belly band to teach whoa.
@@Payton1221 thank you. I’ll go and check your other video again. I also need to research about the belly band to better understand it. My dog is 2 years old and so far we only used e collar around her neck. Thanks again
@@patricelapointe8550 the advantage of the belly band is that it makes it extremely easy for the dog to understand. Stimulation to the belly means stop. Stimulation to the neck means turn or recall. The disadvantage to the handler is that it requires two ecollars and the handler has to toggle correctly based on what you are requiring of the dog.
It will depend on the dog's maturity level. You can take even little pups on fun walks. If you don't let your pup get too close to launchers and you introduce the launcher to them correctly, I've used launchers with some dogs as early as 3-4 months old, but the formal whoa training like I do in this video is reserved until after they've had a full bird season of hunting so the dog will be one to two years old.
I've written about this previously but if you teach it then you're going to want to use it. Right? So what will you do when your young dog is running through birds that he didn't point? What will you do when he doesn't back his bracemate because he's just so excited? It's the dogs first season and some owners may apply too much pressure (either physical, electrical, or just plain VOCAL like bellowing whoa, Whoa, WHOA!), and if they do, then those owners just might convince their dogs that hunting birds just isn't that much fun which may cause style issues, or worse, blinking (aka purposefully avoiding) birds.
excellent step by step explanation of teaching the whoa command that makes complete sense to the novice trainer. thank u for clarifying a process that has always seemed so complicated
Solid - basic training.
Very good video.
Great Job. Excellent training video.
Excellent video, brought it all together. Thank you
Thanks. Like most of dog training, it's not difficult to obtain a high level of performance if you just take your time and slowly progress from step to step using what I refer to as the 3D's of dog training: distance (whoaing further and further from you), duration (whoaing longer and longer), and distractions (whoaing under a variety of situations that encourage you to break)!
Well done! She’s a happy dog.
Thanks. The pigeons at the end does so much. Better compliance AND attitude!
I haven’t tried this yet but I think this may have saved me!
I worked with an owner who has just now whoa broke his 7 year old gsp. It works if you follow it step by step.
Hey Mark I love your videos, great content, thank you. I do have a question. In May my pudelpointer turned 2. I have only been working him on wild birds until now. I have a remote bird launcher, and 2 cages that you step on handle to raise so the bird can fly. I also have the Garmin 200i set up with both the momentary and continuous settings. On the flank I was taught to use the continuous to teach whoa without a verbal commands. Not sure how I transition to the neck with the continuous number one and secondly if there are multiple birds in the area why would you not steady to wing and shot?
Yesterday was the opener to woodcock and we flushed 10 birds and got one. Sometimes he would hold point if I was right there and others he would break and flush as I was not near him. Plus he is so excited when in the area with sent that he is all over at a high speed flushing birds. Can you give me some pointers? Thank you so much.
@@craighalbohm7244 Lots to discuss here if I’m going to provide any meaningful and detailed answers. Email me at payton1221@yahoo.com if you’re interested in a telephone or video conference.
@@Payton1221Mark, Thank you so much for getting back to me. You made my day as I am feeling a little discouraged with what I need to do. I will email you.
Where are you located?
Hey Mark so as this is a real important part of my training right now I am continously watching this video. So you mention two collarsto be used. Do you ever transition from the flank to the neck? Do you use momentary or continuous corrections? Would I therefore have to use the flank collar all the time when hunting, if you don transition to the neck?
Being I now have access to pigeons can I tie surveyors tape to a leg or use another option to get the pigeons back as I do not have homing pigeons
Well I do it some what deferent start in house even.. leach on when .. anywAy great job
That's an easy way to introduce the command: whoa before going outside or whoa before being released to eat and it MIGHT make the process go faster when it's time to go to the Buddy Stick or checkcord.
I realise you released this a few years ago, so may not look back, but I've two questions. I see this command working but I'm not sure why it's used or why it's important.
I've had two Vizslas, but neither were used /trained for hunting. Now I'm looking to get another and definitely want to train it. I'm not a hunter due to vision problems, but if I fully understand the training, I can probably do most of it, and maybe there will be someone who can take care of actually seeing/shooting the game. In any case, thank you for the video.
Many dogs can be serviceable gundogs without ever learning the word whoa, but whoa is needed for those who want their dog to stand steady to wing and shot or for those dogs that just need help in planting their feet at the scent of a bird.
@@Payton1221 thank you. This helps.
Great video. Where did you get the bird bag and where do you get the birds from?
Most of the dog supply houses (Gun Dog Supply, Lion Country, Dogs Unlimited, etc.) sell these bags. I have a few local sources for pigeons, but I routinely check Craigslist too.
Tell me more about that buddy stick.
Why do you wait until after the first season to do this training? I have a 1 year old wirehair that I train with pigeons and quail, he's very confident and trainable - I feel like he would benefit from this at this stage, but was curious if there's a reason I'm not thinking of by waiting?
It can be done but if you teach it then you're going to want to use it. Right? So when will you use it and what will you do if the excitement at that moment (maybe like AROUND BIRDS) causes him to come unglued? So it's the dogs first season and some owners may apply too much pressure (either physical, electrical, or just plain vocal), and if they do, then those owners just might convince their dogs that hunting birds just isn't that much fun.
By allowing her to chase, doesnt the dog learn to run after the birds when they are flushed while hunting?
Yes, but many, if not most, hunters only require that a dog be staunch, ie, that the dog remain pointed until they flush the birds.
There are pros and cons to having a staunch dog, and there are pros and cons to having a steady dog (ie, one that remains stationary even after the birds have flown). I mention in my steady to wing and shot video that you wouldn’t want your dog to chase during this training if you are going to steady the dog later.
@@Payton1221 thanks Mark. What should I do differently if I want to teac my dog to stay steady to flush, shot and fall? Should I prevent the dog from chasing?
@@patricelapointe8550 Watch my steady to wing and shot video. It all starts with a SOLID, S-O-L-I-D(!!!), understanding of what whoa means and your ability to enforce it via the belly band. But, yeah, you don't want to allow him to chase when you introduce birds during the whoa training. That's one time when a helper and a checkcord can assist you and your belly band to teach whoa.
@@Payton1221 thank you. I’ll go and check your other video again. I also need to research about the belly band to better understand it. My dog is 2 years old and so far we only used e collar around her neck. Thanks again
@@patricelapointe8550 the advantage of the belly band is that it makes it extremely easy for the dog to understand. Stimulation to the belly means stop. Stimulation to the neck means turn or recall.
The disadvantage to the handler is that it requires two ecollars and the handler has to toggle correctly based on what you are requiring of the dog.
How older puppy when we start training
It will depend on the dog's maturity level. You can take even little pups on fun walks. If you don't let your pup get too close to launchers and you introduce the launcher to them correctly, I've used launchers with some dogs as early as 3-4 months old, but the formal whoa training like I do in this video is reserved until after they've had a full bird season of hunting so the dog will be one to two years old.
Why teach whoa after first hunting season?
I've written about this previously but if you teach it then you're going to want to use it. Right? So what will you do when your young dog is running through birds that he didn't point? What will you do when he doesn't back his bracemate because he's just so excited? It's the dogs first season and some owners may apply too much pressure (either physical, electrical, or just plain VOCAL like bellowing whoa, Whoa, WHOA!), and if they do, then those owners just might convince their dogs that hunting birds just isn't that much fun which may cause style issues, or worse, blinking (aka purposefully avoiding) birds.
I don’t know why, but I just saw this. Hopefully I can get him steady this spring
Thanks!