วีดีโอ

@@travisgoatley13 You might already know this, but that’s the chapter that I belong to. The actual activities of the chapter have reduced significantly, and I don’t think there has been an in person meeting for a couple of years now. Even the interest in the three or four fun trials we would put on each year is gone. They have a few dog training days, but no field trials.

@ I figured so everybody was up in age 15 years ago. I seen Walkabout farms was closed too. Hate to see it

@ I think the owner was able to put the land in CRP and it was just too profitable to do otherwise.

This is a very timely question, because we've had temps fluctuating between single digits and high 20's for the past two weeks. The 7-gallon waterer is frozen, so I have two 1-gallon waterers that I swap out with water every morning and every evening. I bring the frozen one back in the house to thaw when I drop the one off with fresh water.

Whoa is going to be the height of a bird dog’s excitement level. Your dog needs more whoa training for this greater temptation. Work your dog on whoa using birds but NOT in the bird field. Use a helper and a checkcord at first with the helper assisting you with the bird intro initially done 50’ out or so from you (greater distance = smaller temptation). When your dog does fine with this, have your helper move closer to you. After several weeks, your dog should obey whoa while the bird is 8’ or so from you. Repeat these same workouts using the checkcord and helper again starting 50’ away. After several weeks, your dog should be okay with a bird close to you. Only then should you try to return to actually pointing birds.

The GSP is one of the breeds that often allows you to start more formal training earlier than others, but if it were me, I'd focus on positive/treat training for a while. As for working on recall with two dogs at once, I would do that at the very end of your training, i.e. after both dogs have a thorough ecollar understanding and after they've been proofed with various distractions. Notice in my video how I preface the command with the dog's name. That might allow you to call only one at a time, but it's just as likely that both will obey the command regardless of who is called.

Thanks Rose Anne.

​@@Payton1221 You're welcome! looking forward for more good videos from you! 🙂

Thanks Jimmy, and it's always great to hear from KY's most successful grouse hunter!!!

I received your email and have responded to it. For those interested, books are $20 and that includes shipping anywhere in the continental US.

Great idea!!!

@@SureHowDoYouKnow The droppings are falling mostly on their own through the 1/2 x 1 inch wire openings. There’s always been a “pecking order” with birds, but with food and water available 24/7, there’s never a need to fight over either. At least I’ve never witnessed any birds fighting over food or water.

@@Eddievargas1 Bird dogs treat pigeons similar to gamebirds like quail, chukar, and pheasants, but unlike those birds, the pigeon will return to the coop where they can be used over and over again.

@@marklejones9114 And if you use the external feeder and waterer like I did, the birds will have more room and it’ll be more convenient for you to refill/replenish.

@@Payton1221 exactly that is what I liked was your idea of the feeder and water bucket

@@rickyroten2410 Ricky, absolutely! Add an aviary, perches, and an entryway/bob’s with protective door that you use at night to keep out predators and I think you’ll have a fine coop.

@@richc4231 thanks Rich! I worked with a few wirehairs last year, and they are truly versatile dogs!

@@clemmersmetalworx7012 a lot of quality dog work can be accomplished with just two or three birds per session. If you make the small Lion Country coop, I think I would start with 10 knowing that you will lose a few when they start homing and then replenish when your coop falls to just three or four birds because you will lose some over time to hawks and occasionally to dogs if you’re not fast enough with your electronic launcher 😉

@Payton1221 Thank ya Sir !

The birds I catch stay in the same area: day or night.

It's $20 which includes shipping anywhere in the Continental U.S.

@@williamkamp9162 Thanks William. If you can successfully teach the trained retrieve, then you’re obviously capable of both reading your dog AND capable of breaking a complex task into many simpler ones which are the basis for any dog training that you undertake.

@@Okay17282 Agreed! Not my pup, but she was a pleasure to work.

Books are $20 and that includes shipping in the continental United States. If you are interested, I can send you a request for the money on Venmo or PayPal or you can send me a check. Let me know if you want to proceed.

@ yes. How can I get your address so I can send you a check?

@@Payton1221how can I get your address to send you a check for a book?

@@jeremymoeller4797 With a dog that hasn’t begun pointing, daily workouts with a few birds is okay, but as they start to point, I normally have fewer workouts (with birds) per week. You can still work your dog but focus on other things like turning with you and coming to you.

@@spadelugs Definitely. I’m 95% finished with a video on building your own coop which will give you the info that you need if you want to keep birds yourself.

I will look forward to it thanks a lot

@@Danilyn_Livao Thanks so much. I purposefully let the video run without stopping or cutting the footage so that you could see how easy this can work in real time.

​@@Payton1221 You're welcome!😊 The videos you share are incredibly helpful for us dog owners. Keep the great content coming!

I'll need another printing soon, but I have a few left. Books are $20 and that includes shipping to the continental U.S. If you're interested, I can send you a request via Venmo or PayPal.

Thank you so much. Do you hunt upland birds there?

@ yes sir

@@Ryguyruss123 Thanks Riley. I always said I didn’t want to just simply add content for contents sake, and I’m coming to an end on most of my ideas for training videos. I might get a camera with a good zoom and film some of the different field trials: horseback, NSTRA, UFTA, etc.

@@KB1229YN Does he like chasing? How birdy is he?

@Payton1221 he loves chasing and he's super birdy. He lives for it lol

If you're going to be working your dogs near your coop (within a 1/2 mile or so), then roller pigeons work as well as homers, and that's what I use. I prefer the rollers because they're smaller. But buy twice as many as you think you'll need because you will lose a few when you start flying them . . . initially due to those that get lost and can't find your coop but later due to predators (mostly avian predators). I just finished a new coop and will be doing a video on it soon.

@ So you are building one ? That's what i am needing to do .I have a johnny house for quail but never builded a coop for pigeons.

LOL. I just finished a new coop that I'll be doing a video on soon, but pigeons and electronic launchers are a pointing dog owner's best friend ;-)

I don't know if you have any objections to using birds, but if your dog has a strong retrieve instinct, you can introduce gunfire with training dummies/bumpers using the Distant Shooter Method. Retriever trainers do it all the time, but the retrieving instinct in many of the pointing dogs isn't nearly that strong so birds is the object that's typically used.

@Payton1221 thank you. This is a good idea. At this point, I am assuming I will be pretty much on my own for all training. I'm still months away from getting my next puppy (vizsla, and Finnish vizsla breeders are emphatic about puppies only to hunting homes). So I'm using this time to learn as much as possible not only about training but laws. Dummies are a good alternative but definitely will need some live birds.

@@staceyrotenberger8246 Thanks for the kind words. I know very few guys who have steady hunting (not field trial) dogs. There are some advantages to a steady hunting dog but you must be vigilant in keeping your dog steady and not shoot before confirming that your dog hasn’t moved when the birds have just flushed.

@@heymattsonline Vibration could be used, but by using stimulation, when the dog fully understands the command later, higher levels of that same mode can be used to encourage compliance rather than changing modes (vibration to stim).

@@zackaryrendon4955 Thanks for the kind words. Books are available from me for $20 and that includes shipping. Please email me at payton1221@yahoo.com to let me know if you would prefer that I send a request request for money via PayPal or Venmo. You could also mail me a check.

Every dog is different, but if your desire is to have a truly steady dog (normally defined as one that stands while you flush, continues to stand while the bird takes WING, and stands even after you've SHOT your gun, i.e., steady to WING & SHOT), I wouldn't even begin to take the dog's chase away until the dog has hunted one full season.

I would love to see a video series on what you would do to get a pup ready for his first year in the field.

@@josephwiemann7520 i’m using a wing, but you can use other objects like a small rag.

@@craighalbohm7244 Lots to discuss here if I’m going to provide any meaningful and detailed answers. Email me at payton1221@yahoo.com if you’re interested in a telephone or video conference.

@@Payton1221Mark, Thank you so much for getting back to me. You made my day as I am feeling a little discouraged with what I need to do. I will email you. Where are you located?

Hey Mark so as this is a real important part of my training right now I am continously watching this video. So you mention two collarsto be used. Do you ever transition from the flank to the neck? Do you use momentary or continuous corrections? Would I therefore have to use the flank collar all the time when hunting, if you don transition to the neck? Being I now have access to pigeons can I tie surveyors tape to a leg or use another option to get the pigeons back as I do not have homing pigeons

@@fishingwithmike7079 Build a coop with one-way bobs for the birds to return and then buy unflown homers or rollers off Craigslist. Do not wear anything that identifies you as a bird hunter or dog trainer. I treat my homers and rollers like the gold they are due to how well they fly and how inexpensive they are to feed but the people who might sell me birds may not understand this.

@@fishingwithmike7079 I use homers and rollers so that they do return, and I usually buy mine on craigslist or from people that I’ve bought from on craigslist in the past.