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Thank you so much. Do you hunt upland birds there?

@@rileyrussell3038 Thanks Riley. I always said I didn’t want to just simply add content for contents sake, and I’m coming to an end on most of my ideas for training videos. I might get a camera with a good zoom and film some of the different field trials: horseback, NSTRA, UFTA, etc.

@@KB1229YN Does he like chasing? How birdy is he?

@Payton1221 he loves chasing and he's super birdy. He lives for it lol

If you're going to be working your dogs near your coop (within a 1/2 mile or so), then roller pigeons work as well as homers, and that's what I use. I prefer the rollers because they're smaller. But buy twice as many as you think you'll need because you will lose a few when you start flying them . . . initially due to those that get lost and can't find your coop but later due to predators (mostly avian predators). I just finished a new coop and will be doing a video on it soon.

@ So you are building one ? That's what i am needing to do .I have a johnny house for quail but never builded a coop for pigeons.

LOL. I just finished a new coop that I'll be doing a video on soon, but pigeons and electronic launchers are a pointing dog owner's best friend ;-)

I don't know if you have any objections to using birds, but if your dog has a strong retrieve instinct, you can introduce gunfire with training dummies/bumpers using the Distant Shooter Method. Retriever trainers do it all the time, but the retrieving instinct in many of the pointing dogs isn't nearly that strong so birds is the object that's typically used.

@Payton1221 thank you. This is a good idea. At this point, I am assuming I will be pretty much on my own for all training. I'm still months away from getting my next puppy (vizsla, and Finnish vizsla breeders are emphatic about puppies only to hunting homes). So I'm using this time to learn as much as possible not only about training but laws. Dummies are a good alternative but definitely will need some live birds.

@@staceyrotenberger8246 Thanks for the kind words. I know very few guys who have steady hunting (not field trial) dogs. There are some advantages to a steady hunting dog but you must be vigilant in keeping your dog steady and not shoot before confirming that your dog hasn’t moved when the birds have just flushed.

@@heymattsonline Vibration could be used, but by using stimulation, when the dog fully understands the command later, higher levels of that same mode can be used to encourage compliance rather than changing modes (vibration to stim).

@@zackaryrendon4955 Thanks for the kind words. Books are available from me for $20 and that includes shipping. Please email me at payton1221@yahoo.com to let me know if you would prefer that I send a request request for money via PayPal or Venmo. You could also mail me a check.

Every dog is different, but if your desire is to have a truly steady dog (normally defined as one that stands while you flush, continues to stand while the bird takes WING, and stands even after you've SHOT your gun, i.e., steady to WING & SHOT), I wouldn't even begin to take the dog's chase away until the dog has hunted one full season.

I would love to see a video series on what you would do to get a pup ready for his first year in the field.

@@josephwiemann7520 i’m using a wing, but you can use other objects like a small rag.

@@craighalbohm7244 Lots to discuss here if I’m going to provide any meaningful and detailed answers. Email me at payton1221@yahoo.com if you’re interested in a telephone or video conference.

@@Payton1221Mark, Thank you so much for getting back to me. You made my day as I am feeling a little discouraged with what I need to do. I will email you. Where are you located?

Hey Mark so as this is a real important part of my training right now I am continously watching this video. So you mention two collarsto be used. Do you ever transition from the flank to the neck? Do you use momentary or continuous corrections? Would I therefore have to use the flank collar all the time when hunting, if you don transition to the neck? Being I now have access to pigeons can I tie surveyors tape to a leg or use another option to get the pigeons back as I do not have homing pigeons

@@fishingwithmike7079 Build a coop with one-way bobs for the birds to return and then buy unflown homers or rollers off Craigslist. Do not wear anything that identifies you as a bird hunter or dog trainer. I treat my homers and rollers like the gold they are due to how well they fly and how inexpensive they are to feed but the people who might sell me birds may not understand this.

@@fishingwithmike7079 I use homers and rollers so that they do return, and I usually buy mine on craigslist or from people that I’ve bought from on craigslist in the past.

@@rickyroten2410 thanks for the feedback.Delmar’s techniques are excellent, and I’ve actually started using his whoa post exactly exactly as he teaches it but then overlaying the ecollar later.

@@Payton1221 That is the way i do it also , the whoa post is something I feel strong about using .

@@masterclassanonymous1292 That’s an interesting point. It certainly is comforting to know where your dog is. Many dogs thought to be big runners are now known not to be . . . Some are just hanging out at 150-250 yards without feeling the need to check in any closer since they know where we are.

I’m not sure how my training could be used to teach a dog to track deer or deer antlers. Seems like you’d need any entirely new system to me.

I’ve heard the same horror stories. Some called it a dose of Vitamin-9’s (9 shot) 😡

Good eye, Compton. I allude to whoa by saying that there is something that we can do later to get our dogs to point longer and longer, but an old time dog trainer named Bill West said that "whoa" was the most abused word in dog training, and he was right.

I use rollers mostly. They will home a short distance, and they're a little smaller than a homer. Birds just need clean water, food, and a place to roost and nest. Your coop needs a way for the birds to return to the coop but without allowing those on the inside to leave whenever they want. Most people use "pigeon bobs," which are suspended bars/rods that can only swing inward. I've used multiple feeds, but I've standardized on layer pellets for chicken. It's soft and doesn't require that you use grit, and it's homogeneous (all pellets look/taste alike), so there's no wasting of the less desirable grains so that they can eat the tastier ones.

You're not alone in that assessment. Many people believe that we're breeding smarter dogs. When the "training" methods were much harsher, it was only the dogs that could tolerate those methods that were typically bred. The "washouts" might have been great bird dogs with other methods.

All good points! You called it a communication tool, I've heard it said that "it's like sending a text message to your dog." And if your intensity level is set right, it is. And while I agree with it's ability to adjust range as you wrote, as for me, I still like Shelley's thoughts on seeing how the immediate ancestors range. I'd rather have to "mildly shape" a pup rather than trying to turn a racehorse into a plow horse :D

Thanks Mark. I have another book already in mind ;-) But you're right: it's certainly capable of damage if misused.

Thanks Rich. When I start working with a dog and the collar, I used it OFTEN but it's almost always at a very low level. As such, I'm using it usually as a cue, not a correction.

@@DavidDHanss Books are available for $20 and that includes shipping. If you want one, I can request the money via PayPal or Venmo or you can mail me a check. And thanks for the kind words!

@@Payton1221Great! I'll Venmo you, just lmk the right address!

​@@Payton1221my Venmo is just my first and last name David Hanss in the format @First-Last-1. Hopefully that makes sense. I didn't spell it out here in hopes of reducing fraud/scams. If you can send me the request for $40 I would like to order two copies. Thank you! I will also need to send you my address.

@@deerhost Wow!!! That’s high praise. Thanks for your kind words.

Thanks for your interest. The book is $20 and that includes shipping. If you're interested, send me an email to payton1221@yahoo.com and then I'll request $20 through PayPal or Venmo (let me know which you prefer) or you can mail me a check.

Thanks. The pointer often gets criticized as not being a family dog, but Andi has an off-switch and loves coming into the house to curl up on a bed or on the couch with us.

@@DCon14 This is a SIGHT exercise. The pointing dog or pointing dog silhouette should be so far away that there’s no opportunity for your dog to smell anything. Launch the bird as soon as your dog SEES the pointing dog. Check out my Accelerated Dog Training video that shows me introduce backing to another dog, and I also have a TH-cam Short entitled Backing in 10 minutes. THANKS for watching!

@@Payton1221 That make sense on the backing scenario. I was referring to the first setter about 15 seconds into the video. He seems to catch sent but ride it in until he confirmed. Mine does the same but rides the scent just about until he can see the bird. Thanks again for the responses and videos.

@@DCon14 look at my how to train a bird dog video. With the launchers, you’re trying to simulate what a wild bird would do. Wild birds will not permit that type of pressure, so you need to be launching your birds a lot sooner.

You advise using pigeons on young dogs more than pen raised quail?

@@rickyroten2410 I assume you are referring to pen-raised quail, and I definitely prefer Pigeons over them because of their tendency to not flush well nor fly far.

Riding shotgun!

It’s my friend’s dog. I think she’s about 3 or 4.

@@Payton1221 pretty dog

I live in Southern Indiana, directly across from Louisville so about 450 miles.