Such a useful series of videos: it’s really helpful to see the processes being carried out in full. Instead of just saying ‘counterbore the threaded holes’ you actually show us how to do it, with measurements and tips. Probably a little tedious for you who have done it a thousand times before, but for those of us who have never had a go - gold dust! Thanks, gents.
Im a bit confused. You say you use a 9/32 on the 5/16 unf holes in the block? When i have tried this only the tips of the threads are removed, should it be a little bigger? Also, related, should the main bearing dowel holes be countersunk? And what size should be used? (using a drillpress)
Why do you counterbore the block to gearbox threads before redrilling and tapping to 5/16 unf? I would have expected it to have been easier to accurately drill for re threading before counterboring? Thanks for super knowhow video.
Easier to drill for the 5/16 from a hole that is counterbored as the drill will follow the counterbore. If it's threaded already it will try to follow the thread which will then produce a hole which is untrue or not concentric.
Why not go metric and do the gearbox threads m8 or is it just to be consistent and keep them UNF? Great vids, takes me back years to when you were on avenue rd!
Such a useful series of videos: it’s really helpful to see the processes being carried out in full. Instead of just saying ‘counterbore the threaded holes’ you actually show us how to do it, with measurements and tips. Probably a little tedious for you who have done it a thousand times before, but for those of us who have never had a go - gold dust! Thanks, gents.
This is a very important, and essential procedure before starting assembly of any engine.
Great video. Just love all the technical stuff.
as always a nice detailed presentation, thanks gents
Excellent video with plenty of information on block preparation, l am looking forward to the next episode
merci beaucoup de nous faire partager votre savoir et votre experience...superbe video..très pédagogique
Great work and greatly useful for future reference
Nice job 👍🙂
Saved video for future ref. 👍
Im a bit confused. You say you use a 9/32 on the 5/16 unf holes in the block? When i have tried this only the tips of the threads are removed, should it be a little bigger?
Also, related, should the main bearing dowel holes be countersunk? And what size should be used? (using a drillpress)
Why do you counterbore the block to gearbox threads before redrilling and tapping to 5/16 unf? I would have expected it to have been easier to accurately drill for re threading before counterboring? Thanks for super knowhow video.
Easier to drill for the 5/16 from a hole that is counterbored as the drill will follow the counterbore. If it's threaded already it will try to follow the thread which will then produce a hole which is untrue or not concentric.
Hi there. Nice professional work. Do you have already worked on engines, and if so how much can it cost? Thanks.
If you have a thin-flange block, is it still worth going to the larger fixings for the gearbox? Cheers
Will
Amazing!! Love the idea of the copper gasket! Would you use sealant on them?
Just a bit of grease usually. Some use a light smear of RTV sealer.
Is the stock block height dimension of the A+ 1275 also 8.890" ?
Yes
Great..but why not go to metric when you are retapping?
Why not go metric and do the gearbox threads m8 or is it just to be consistent and keep them UNF?
Great vids, takes me back years to when you were on avenue rd!
Best to keep it all imperial, to save someone cross threading everything in future. Glad you like the videos!
Are there any new blocks available or planed for?
Not that we know of currently
Is it worth linering expensive process
Are the copper gaskets reusable?
Yes, although we tend to fit a new set when rebuilding
My copper gaskets are on their 3rd rebuild with no issues.
First !
Well done 😁