HOW-TO: Stretch Pool Table Cloth like The Real King Cobra!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- The Real King Cobra method for determining the stretch index for pool table cloth is a method that can be used for every Billiards bed cloth.
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Thank you very informative
I recover pool tables in England. I love my trade and I am always looking to improve and refine. It is aalways a pleasure to watch other craftsman at work. Thank you for your hard work and releasing these videos, it is truly appreciated.
Thank you very much, what's coming is going to blow people's minds. One of the things I'm going to do is take the mystery out of leveling slates, show why you only need 4 slate screws to mount a 3 piece slate, and how to level slates not with wood wedges, but with 4 different thicknesses of wood screws, 2" long!
@@therealkingcobra sounds amazing. I look forward to the video.👍
@@therealkingcobra it would be great to try your glue but I cannot find it here in the U.K.
I am trying to find something similar. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
We have a Diamond dealer in Finland, send an email to Aaron@diamondbilliards.com for their contact info.
@@therealkingcobrathank you much appreciated.
ty great explanation
Great video. Are you always giving back 3/4" regardless of cloth or slate width?
Yep
How do you tell grain tracks in cloth, because it will be easy to judge as a no level table? Thanks Glen. Awesome videos.
Please level a Valley that is sag in the middle!!!
Leveling a Valley with swayback sag is not all that easy. Sure, you can raise the slate in the middle by stacking shims on the aluminum cross bars, you can even get the slate level, but guess what? The rails won't line up to bolt them in place because starting from the corner pockets the rails get higher and higher, until you get to the side pockets, then they're a 1/4" higher than the formica rail cap, which also means the center rail bolts and the rail bolts closest to the side pockets won't line up with the bolt holes in the rail blocks!! I have 2 answers to this problem, 1) install Strachan Superweave on the Valley, because its not as sensitive to ball roll off, or 2) buy a Diamond 7ft ProAm! NO Valley pool table was ever built to have cloths like Simonis installed on them! I don't care if you put lipstick on a pig, its STILL a PIG!
Grain tracking is when you see the object balls or cue ball, in the last 2 to 5 inches of slow rolling, just before it stops, the ball will wobble left, right, left, right until it comes to a complete stop. In some cases because the cloth has a straight across and straight up and down weave, if the balls are rolling almost in that weave, like the rows in a cornfield, with the right speed, and almost in line with the weave, the balls can turn and follow the grain weave of the cloth. Its more visible when a ball is rolling against the cushions, watch the balls roll, in and out from the nose of the cushions. And sometimes when the cloth is not pulled straight, that ball will roll away from the cushion and follow the grain weave of the cloth too.
In trying to get my head around the math here I need some clarification. First stretch as hard as you can by hand and measure that distance (2-1/4 here). Then subtract 3/4" from that (1-1/2 here). Now take that value divided by the length over which you stretched (1-1/2 / 47-1/2). This is the stretch index for your cloth (1/32" per inch in this case). You can just take this value and multiply the length of your stretch and you have the total stretch.
The 3/4" subtraction was where I got confused. I think you are saying allows some slack for the lengthwise stretch later. So is the lengthwise stretch 1-1/2: at each end for a total of 3" or do you use the original 2-1/4" stretch on each end for a total of 5-1/2" (assuming the length is double the width)?
I have a 9' diamond pro-am using Simonis Tournament Blue. Do you know the stretch off the top of your head?
What the stretch index allows you to do is balance out the install of the cloth. Meaning that yes, if you're stretching 1 1/2" side to side, but end to end you can't pull the stretch and stick it like the first end, meaning you're short on the pull, then you need to back off on your side to side stretch and move that stretch more towards your end to end stretch. For example, 1 3/8" side to side, and you can pull both ends to the 1 3/8" stretch too.
If you have a known stretch for one size table, then divide that stretch index by the width of the slate. Then for the bigger or smaller table that you're trying to figure out what the stretch index is, take the width of that slate and times that fraction of an inch stretch of your known slate.
Example, 7ft Diamond slate is 47" wide, and a 1 1/4" stretch with Simonis 860HR Tour Blue works out to be .0319 per inch. Now for a 8ft stretch index, based on the same cloth, .0319×57"= 1.819 or basically 1 13/16" stretch side to side and end to end.
This method eliminates those ugly stretch shadows, and from eventually becoming loose end to end, or side to side.
@@therealkingcobra Would you pull both ends? 1 3/8" each end for a total of 2 3/4"? TIA
Wow !!!!!!!!😁
So is the 3/4 inch number a universal number for all tables and felts? Or whe does that number originate from?
Yes, that's the slack you back off from the maximum stretch regardless of what cloth or table size.
Am I taking the 1 3/8" stretch and dividing by 2 so each side stretches 11/16" ?
No, that stretch is balanced all the way across the bed cloth. You can't stretch cloth without anchoring it first.
I'd like to know how much to stretch Championship Tour on a 8' table and how much slack to leave for the side pockets.
The full blown explanation of the stretch index system, requardless of cloth or size of table is coming soon.