I use a 261 with an 18" bar. Starts and runs great. Powerful and reliable. Caps do not leak. There's something to be said about doing a difficult cutting job and the machine works as it should.
If you are going to cut a lot of firewood, bite the bullet and get the 261C-M. I run a 044 magnum for dropping larger trees but the 261 is my go to saw for most bucking. I also use a 193T for limbing.
@@Carlsmower You are welcome . Being a fellow Stihl dealer, I discuss with my customers about their expectations of the saw they are considering. Many of them walk away when I suggest they are expecting a storm clean up saw to do to work of a firewood saw. In my opinion, the MS 250 should be marketed as the entry level firewood saw. For my tree service customers, it is the preferred ground. Another popular ground saw for commercial customers is to upgrade the MS170 to a .050 bar gauge and the 3/8LP chain.
You’re correct. To clarify the engine sits in a plastic case on the MS291 vs the MS261 where the engine “crankcase” made from magnesium create the foundation for the complete saw.
I've had an ms310 for over a decade and it's never skipped a beat. Still starts easy and is always ready for a long days work. At 13lbs it is heavier for its power output,but the build quality is fine. They're actually easier to rebuild than the magnesium case saws. Take the carb and muffler off,remove the flywheel,one bar stud,and remove the four bolts in the bottom. Pull the old engine out and drop in a new one. New engines can be bought for $150,new cylinder, pisto,bearings,seals,already assembled. For most users the farm and ranch saws are plenty good.
I love my 261c with the 16" bar, its like a scalpel for limbing, but it also has plenty of power to bury the bar and just eat when bucking big pieces. I have a 20" setup for it but have not needed to use it yet, for the bigger pieces I just roll it or go to the other side and finish the cut.
It’s funny the scenario you described for someone who might be looking at the 291 is exactly me but I always buy the pro stuff just because I want my tools to last as long as possible
I cut 4-5 cord a year using primarily a ms250 and ms310. Theyve served me well without any complaints. I do also have a ms441c for big stuff,but it doesn't see a whole lot of use
Consider this, A farmboss is going to serve you ok, but wont last forever. Eventually when it dies it will be worthless, and you will probably throw it out. The 261c will last soooooooo much longer, and when you wear it out, you can just rebuild it. And there is ALWAYS people chasing old pro saws second hand. So you can always sell it if you need to. In general, Prosaws hold their value FAR BETTER than homeowner/ranch saws. In any brand!
Interesting. I have a 290, with relatively little use, so far. What kinds of wear modes will occur over time, and why can't they be rebuilt with new, replacement parts? Thanks!
I had a farm for many years with close to 140 acres of mature woods and bought a Stihl 044 with a 24 inch bar for the big stuff . I still have it to this day and it still runs like new .The saw is nearly 20 years old . You just can not beat a Stihl .
Nice Video! Most fundamental difference is construction of the chain saw. While they look similar the Pro (261) body is made out AlMagnesium and integrate the crancshaft part into body. The 291 is "plastic" (composite material) and engine can be (with some effort) separated from the body. This makes 261 easier to maintain and replace the piston (if needed) and lighter saw.
I'm a professional tree surgeon, my go to everyday saw is MS291. I fell big trees, remove big wind blow with it, it has been set up by me to fast pull start and I use a 16" or 18". My other go to ground saw is an old rebuilt ( by myself) MS260, great for regen or snedding. My experience with the MS261C is bad I've had two both broke down within a year, they went to the bin. There seems to be a problem with the MS261C, as I'm not the only one who has had problem
Hi Ivan, no hardware is required just make sure you have the correct tension on the pull cord, the air gap is correct and your spark plug gap is correct and clean, finally the electrodes on the ignition module are clean.
I dunno my farm boss 290 bought 2008ish while I’m getting older this dang saw starts within 3 pulls every time and believe me that’s worth 2 pounds. I’ve cut so many cords it’s uncountable. Great saw.
I like the 261 it's definitely pro but for this farm boy got a few old ones that still do the job but 261 is a bit pricey for me when I can ge the 291 for $300 cheaper and get another smaller new chain saw for back-up/smaller trees.
Thought I’d put a couple tips out there the bar size should go by height stretch your arm out standing straight if the bar touches your feet it’s to long and the tree lands towards the side with most wood hanging on
I love stihl saws however I am in the market for two new saws. If you had to choose I need one for limbing and one for felling which pro series saws would you choose
So we’re talking a climbing Arbor saw and when you say a felling saw for certain people a felling saw is a 20 inch machine and others they want lots of power in to run 28 inch
I made the same choice for the 291, it was on sale and they said it was a great deal with the added $200 discount. Now that I watch this video I could use a 261c too because it is lighter.
My experience with stihl 026 was very good. I bought 2 saws 25 years agoe and they run great.>If I had not fell a tree on one saw it had still be running good as the other does. I bought a new stihl 261c and expected it to be as good as 026. It was not. After 3 years of cutting firewood it broke down with crankshaft failure. Stihl told me I was to blame not using the stihl motomix oil or stihl premix gas. I have allways used shell-oil mixed 2%. New stihl saws are not so good any more and I am not happy with stihl service. No more stihl for me but from now a 550xp.
See now you see the true colors of stihl. Im in Illinois its always your fault oh you straight gassed it. Thats why no stihls in my garage. plus that oddball .063 BS
My 261 has the same problem, its not the oil or your fault, the problem this machine is just too powerful for the clutch and needle roller assembly, they use the same size clutch and rollers for the ms 250.
I'm on 35 acres in Northern Michigan near the lake, last windstorm a few weeks ago I had 12 come down, all ash/beech/maple. I use a ms291 and a 290 farm boss. I think they do a good job, what would you recommend as a step or two up from those saws?
the 261 is an mtronic saw, which is kind of like the old chevy-style throttle body injection. whereas the 291 is you standard 2 cycle carburetor set up. on top of the other advantages mentioned in the video. yes, the mtronic needs to be calibrated, no you {generally} dont need special tools to do this, a lot of good videos on the proper procedure.
I've got a 441c mtronic that I'm tryin to replace the throttle cable on and it's a bear. Had I known I'd have to disassemble the whole saw just to change I'd of taken it to a shop. I miss the simplicity of just linkage you can pop off or on. I've got both top covers off,the starter the carb,the carb base plate and intake,just to access the throttle cable. Not to mention you have to completely disassemble the handle and trigger assembly.
Can I ask you which pro saw would be good for me. I want more power than 50cc . Want the pro for light weight and more power. Going be my last saw. Never got a new one and I want a really nice saw for cutting firewood. Bad back faster I can cut the better. Don’t care about cost
I have the Farm Boss, its a damn heavy saw after just a little bit of work. I too have lost bar nuts and the reason why people lose them is that the balance between too loose and too tight is barely enough to keep them from backing out. I do love the saw though in spite of being heavy its a hoss. I had an issue with the place where I bought my saw and Stihl corporate blew me away ( that aint easy to do), in the way they jumped in and went above and beyond to remedy the problem, and for that reason I will always buy Stihl products. A lot of times I do find myself running two saws and use my smaller Echo for the majority of the work if I am doing a lot due to weight fatigue and use the Stihl for felling and cutting down larger logs into firewood, i use the echo for limbing, saplings and smaller trees. ALWAYS remember to use Stabil in your gas, no small engine likes ethanol
If you are going to buy a pro saw never buy a Stihl saw with a C behind the numbers (M-tronic) the MS261 is an amazing saw. Dont waste your money on anything less then pro level saws unless you like spending money in a saw shop for repairs. Plus if weight is an issue the real solution is going to the gym more.
Sorry,but some of us who've had back problems, hip problems, or an arm or shoulder injury dont benefit from looking like a crossfit trainer. At 50 years old with two deteriorating lumber disks and a bad rotator cuff I still have to get things done. 2 pounds can make or break my day if I'm cutting for 4 or 5 hours
Yeah going to the gym comment is crap. Try that with destroyed discs and torn rotator cuffs, still gotta do a days work though, still at it when you're in the gym 😂
Hello sir I have a question regarding the 261 amd 260 are the parts interchangeable to some extent? The reason I ask is because in Mexico they don't sell the 261 so I had to buy the 260 but I am going bk to CALIFORNIA and will buy a 261. I'm just wondering if the local stihl dealer will be able to do maintenance on the 261
You are going to find that nearly nothing is interchangeable. Sorry to share that info. I would currently stick with the MS260 so your local dealer can help you in the future.
@@iffykidmn8170 You can buy the 261 without the electronics. I have one about 2 years old. It may actually cost more than the electronic version. I am guessing it is still available.
I have a carbureted 261. No computer. Starts with 3 pulls every time. I love the saw. I bought way more saw than I will ever need. Just a homeowner cutting up fallen branches. I wanted the power to weight ratio. A world of difference compared to the Echo CS-400.
@@artie191 I used to bag on the mtronic, but my 261 starts up every time within 2-3 pulls for me. Same with my non mtronic 462. Love em both. Moral of the story is stihl’s pro saws are pretty hard to beat.
Thanks for the love. You need thick skin to handle the trolls and haters. I’m sure I could do better at my data at times. So I usually take the comments as a learning opportunity.
I'm reading the comments and I don't see any "trolls", just people that have a different opinion on the merits of the Stihl (vs. Husky) saws. When did voicing a dissenting opinion become "trolling"? I suspect it is a young person's prospective, i.e. Millennial, Generation Y, ???
Georgi Krasimirow the MS291 has been a great saw. Most problems are self induced, meaning fuel issues, leaving brake on, not keeping chain sharp and air filter clean.
Keep your saws warm in the utility room and you won't need the choke. Heating pads work well if in the shed. Those fuel caps suck, they just do. My 261c he's never taken more than 3 pulls to start completely (w/valve). The saw is underpowered with a 20" bar and a sharp chain.
Buy a Husqvarna 550 Mark II for the same price, and have security in a better warranty from a company that has more consideration for it's consumers. Maybe Stihl _was_ a great brand years ago, but it's no longer the elite at this price point; whereas Husqvarna nails it 95%+ and doesn't require you to babysit your leaking saw on a heat pad to ensure it starts properly without a choke. The absurdity of this comment, _for real?_
Sthil caps are prone to getting grit wood dirt , cause it not to seal , that's what people don't like , in dusty conditions it happens more than you think .
FYI. The fuel and oil caps don't "work great". Owned an ms 201 and 261cm for years and have had to replace the caps multiple times. Google the issue. It's well known. Stihl dealer fix. Just store it on its side, they all leak. Really like Stihl, but no fluff here, call like I see it.
I would like those fuel/oil caps too if I was standing indoors, and trying to sell the chainsaws. I've had both styles, kept having to buy new replacement caps from Stihl, finally ordered a 10 pack of "China made" Caps and they seem to leak just as good as the original Stihl caps.
I have the 261CM with a 16" bar and my brother has the 291 with a 20" bar. I can't tell a difference cutting hardwoods. They're both beasts. I will say that my 261 hates to start when hot. After a tank of gas, the only way I can restart the saw is WOT. It's been into the shop 3 times in 1.5 years to fix this, as I don't think I should have to coax the saw into starting. Nobody can find an issue, but there have been times that it's an absolute boat anchor when hot. 291 is more reliable when hot than my 261.
@@carlsmowerandsaw Sometimes. Not every time, though. Sometimes it just gurgles and dies out. It really hates to run hot … and it apparently cannot be fixed. Sometimes I can get it running by drop starting it with full throttle. After about 5-6 pulls, I can get it running. Other times, no joy … there’s nothing I can do to get it to fire. Have to let it sit for several hours to cool down (I usually just put it away until the next day). It’s done this since it was new … saw was purchased last March.
Shortly after posting this, I watched some videos on how to reset/recalibrate the mtronic carb. I followed those steps, but I got a much different response than the videos. My saw ran wot, then went up in RPMs (like the videos), but then didn’t settle back down to a high rpm setting. Instead, it just kept going down in RPMs until it gurgled and died. So, then I was really worried. But, the saw fired right back up. And in 80F weather and multiple tanks of fuel later, it’s reliable and is a one-pull starter… cold, hot, and everything in between. Very frustrating that my dealer never did this. It’s about the equivalent of power cycling a computer/smartphone that’s acting buggy. Should have been one of the first things they tried. It’s also strange that my carb reset had such a weird response. But, I’m super happy to have a reliable saw now.
The right for me is bolts an nuts don't get lose strip the threads . When a flywheel key breaks and does not cost me over 50 dollars . When high dollar brand gets whips . Sthil has a lot catch up to do
I am very unhappy with my MS291. I think Sthil is overrated and overpriced. It never ran right from the get go. I took it back to the dealer several times and they told me there was nothing wrong with it, but it has always been very difficult to start and idles poorly. Lately it is impossible to pull the cord due to high compression. There is no compression release on this relatively powerful saw. I am going to try cleaning the exhaust port screen to see if that helps. Meanwhile I just bought a new Echo CS400 because I can't rely on the MS291 to start when I need it. I also own an Echo CS310 and two Echo trimmers, one set up as a brush cutter. The Echo equipment always starts easily, runs good, and is very reliable.
I’ve had the 291 for years , we’re in Canada and when the saw is cold the compression is so high it’s difficult to pull . I bought a 550 xp today we’ll see how that goes .
Hi Josh! Ken aka The Lawn Ninja here from Kitimat, BC. I see this saw as well as a couple others on the Stihl site come in a VW designation. Could you please let me know the difference? Thank you! Very much appreciate your content even way up here! And mowing season soon so I'll be showing off those hats!!! :)
@@Carlsmower I should ask Ken aka the lawn ninja to help me get some firewood this winter. He can test those features out. Ken spends too much time on the couch or out DJ'ing and trying to whooo the ladies 🤣
Why does Stihl make so many models? It seems like there's so many that are so similar (think 250, 251, 271) And then there are a couple professional models that are clearly better than the Farm/Ranch models but are similar in price.
Good question, one has to assume it’s all about hitting price points. To many people are driven by price not product. I have made decisions this way in my life too.
my son-in-law had one that there not enough oil coming out of it that you could not see it on the chain.I put a new oiler in it and it worked, then I sold the saw and told guy who bought it about every thing I did to get every thing right again. have not heard a word from the guy so i guess "no news is good news"
No good serial killer would use anything but a Stihl and then only a 261 as they are light weight and powerful. As they say, Stihl to kill all night long.
The ms261 has quite the appealing features that I like and a little extra power with some weight saving is nice too.
I use a 261 with an 18" bar. Starts and runs great. Powerful and reliable. Caps do not leak. There's something to be said about doing a difficult cutting job and the machine works as it should.
I love it with an 18” bar on it. Balance and power…
If you are going to cut a lot of firewood, bite the bullet and get the 261C-M. I run a 044 magnum for dropping larger trees but the 261 is my go to saw for most bucking. I also use a 193T for limbing.
Thanks for weighing in, Phil!
@@Carlsmower You are welcome . Being a fellow Stihl dealer, I discuss with my customers about their expectations of the saw they are considering. Many of them walk away when I suggest they are expecting a storm clean up saw to do to work of a firewood saw. In my opinion, the MS 250 should be marketed as the entry level firewood saw. For my tree service customers, it is the preferred ground. Another popular ground saw for commercial customers is to upgrade the MS170 to a .050 bar gauge and the 3/8LP chain.
Nice setup. I have a 461 for big stuff and a 026 for limbing and small trees.
And a big difference plastic case vs magnesium.
You’re correct.
To clarify the engine sits in a plastic case on the MS291 vs the MS261 where the engine “crankcase” made from magnesium create the foundation for the complete saw.
I've had an ms310 for over a decade and it's never skipped a beat. Still starts easy and is always ready for a long days work. At 13lbs it is heavier for its power output,but the build quality is fine. They're actually easier to rebuild than the magnesium case saws. Take the carb and muffler off,remove the flywheel,one bar stud,and remove the four bolts in the bottom. Pull the old engine out and drop in a new one. New engines can be bought for $150,new cylinder, pisto,bearings,seals,already assembled. For most users the farm and ranch saws are plenty good.
This is EXACTLY what I needed to know. Thank you for such a clear description between the two. Really appreciate it.
I love my 261c with the 16" bar, its like a scalpel for limbing, but it also has plenty of power to bury the bar and just eat when bucking big pieces. I have a 20" setup for it but have not needed to use it yet, for the bigger pieces I just roll it or go to the other side and finish the cut.
Missed the burp on my 260pro last night. Gave up trying to unflood it and called it a night. Glad to here the 261 has a better starting system.
I bought a 291 last month and can't wait to use it
I don't understand complaints of the oil and gas caps. No issues with them on leaf blower, hedge trimmer or chainsaw. Easy to use, no brainer.
Pain in the arse to get lined up at times and they hold dust and chips in the recess which tends to get in the fuel and oil tank.
Bro I despise them
It’s funny the scenario you described for someone who might be looking at the 291 is exactly me but I always buy the pro stuff just because I want my tools to last as long as possible
I cut 4-5 cord a year using primarily a ms250 and ms310. Theyve served me well without any complaints. I do also have a ms441c for big stuff,but it doesn't see a whole lot of use
Love my MS261c, works like charm.
Consider this,
A farmboss is going to serve you ok, but wont last forever. Eventually when it dies it will be worthless, and you will probably throw it out.
The 261c will last soooooooo much longer, and when you wear it out, you can just rebuild it. And there is ALWAYS people chasing old pro saws second hand. So you can always sell it if you need to.
In general, Prosaws hold their value FAR BETTER than homeowner/ranch saws. In any brand!
Interesting. I have a 290, with relatively little use, so far. What kinds of wear modes will occur over time, and why can't they be rebuilt with new, replacement parts? Thanks!
291 will last a lifetime if well taken care of. 251 and 291 best firewood saws for homeowners.
Agreed. The poor man pays twice and you never regret buying quality.
I had a farm for many years with close to 140 acres of mature woods and bought a Stihl 044 with a 24 inch bar for the big stuff . I still have it to this day and it still runs like new .The saw is nearly 20 years old . You just can not beat a Stihl .
And the 044. It is legendary
@@Carlsmower Yes sir !
I have a husqy 372 that a tree surgeon bought in 2001, the thing still runs perfect
I'm blessed as I have both. I do like the 261 pro better, but I love them both.
What one did you buy first ?
Nice Video! Most fundamental difference is construction of the chain saw. While they look similar the Pro (261) body is made out AlMagnesium and integrate the crancshaft part into body. The 291 is "plastic" (composite material) and engine can be (with some effort) separated from the body. This makes 261 easier to maintain and replace the piston (if needed) and lighter saw.
You are correct the body of the saw is where we see the weight savings and some of the performance gains.
I'm a professional tree surgeon, my go to everyday saw is MS291. I fell big trees, remove big wind blow with it, it has been set up by me to fast pull start and I use a 16" or 18". My other go to ground saw is an old rebuilt ( by myself) MS260, great for regen or snedding. My experience with the MS261C is bad I've had two both broke down within a year, they went to the bin. There seems to be a problem with the MS261C, as I'm not the only one who has had problem
Hi Ivan, no hardware is required just make sure you have the correct tension on the pull cord, the air gap is correct and your spark plug gap is correct and clean, finally the electrodes on the ignition module are clean.
Maybe Stihl was a great brand years ago, but it's no longer the elite at this price point. Husqvarna 550 Mark II is superior.
Great video… the captive bar nuts is a great feature, would think it could be in the MS291 as well, why make the two systems when captive is best?
I dunno my farm boss 290 bought 2008ish while I’m getting older this dang saw starts within 3 pulls every time and believe me that’s worth 2 pounds. I’ve cut so many cords it’s uncountable. Great saw.
That MS290 Farm Boss was a reliable saw, yes heavy but reliable.
My ms310 is the same way. It could use a new sprocket and a tune up,but it's always reliable and has seen alot of use
I like the 261 it's definitely pro but for this farm boy got a few old ones that still do the job but 261 is a bit pricey for me when I can ge the 291 for $300 cheaper and get another smaller new chain saw for back-up/smaller trees.
The $150-200 price jump is a hit for sure. If weight, power, and longevity are on the list for sure consider the 261
Thought I’d put a couple tips out there the bar size should go by height stretch your arm out standing straight if the bar touches your feet it’s to long and the tree lands towards the side with most wood hanging on
Also, the MS261C with the m-tronic needs to be calibrated. Sounds crazy, but the manual will actually explain it.
The M-tronic is constantly calibrating. The key in my experience is to let it idle for 15-20 seconds before killing it.
I love stihl saws however I am in the market for two new saws. If you had to choose I need one for limbing and one for felling which pro series saws would you choose
So we’re talking a climbing Arbor saw and when you say a felling saw for certain people a felling saw is a 20 inch machine and others they want lots of power in to run 28 inch
MS 241 and MS 462.
261 is the pound for pound champion of saws
Undisputed Featherweight champion of the world.
I ended up getting the 291 on sale for $200 cheaper than original price. The 261 would probably be a nice upgrade.
I made the same choice for the 291, it was on sale and they said it was a great deal with the added $200 discount.
Now that I watch this video I could use a 261c too because it is lighter.
How long you thing I should wait before I move from a 170 to a 290 or bigger. Am kinda new to c-saws
Great info. You're a great speaker!
My experience with stihl 026 was very good. I bought 2 saws 25 years agoe
and they run great.>If I had not fell a tree on one saw it had still
be running good as the other does. I bought a new stihl 261c and
expected it to be as good as 026. It was not. After 3 years of
cutting firewood it broke down with crankshaft failure. Stihl told me I
was to blame not using the stihl motomix oil or stihl premix gas. I have allways used
shell-oil mixed 2%. New stihl saws are not so good any more and I am not
happy with stihl service. No more stihl for me but from now a 550xp.
See now you see the true colors of stihl. Im in Illinois its always your fault oh you straight gassed it. Thats why no stihls in my garage. plus that oddball .063 BS
The new mkII 550xp is great as is the 545 mkII neither has comp release but start fast and easy. That 545 really surprised me.
My 261 has the same problem, its not the oil or your fault, the problem this machine is just too powerful for the clutch and needle roller assembly, they use the same size clutch and rollers for the ms 250.
Idiot
@@g.d.7629 Hmmm my 260 runs .050
I'm on 35 acres in Northern Michigan near the lake, last windstorm a few weeks ago I had 12 come down, all ash/beech/maple. I use a ms291 and a 290 farm boss. I think they do a good job, what would you recommend as a step or two up from those saws?
Dude... thanks for this video. It's exactly what I was looking for.
Was is Legiondary?
What are you going with?
@@Carlsmower I was eyeballing the 362. But the 261c will suit me just fine. Thanks again!
I like how he wanted to say Husqvarna at 2:55 but didn't
291 can fit bar size 25 or just only 20 bar feet thanks
A 25” will fit. You would also need to change the sprocket. I would not recommend going up to that size bar though
the 261 is an mtronic saw, which is kind of like the old chevy-style throttle body injection. whereas the 291 is you standard 2 cycle carburetor set up. on top of the other advantages mentioned in the video. yes, the mtronic needs to be calibrated, no you {generally} dont need special tools to do this, a lot of good videos on the proper procedure.
I've got a 441c mtronic that I'm tryin to replace the throttle cable on and it's a bear. Had I known I'd have to disassemble the whole saw just to change I'd of taken it to a shop. I miss the simplicity of just linkage you can pop off or on. I've got both top covers off,the starter the carb,the carb base plate and intake,just to access the throttle cable. Not to mention you have to completely disassemble the handle and trigger assembly.
Do you think the ms260 would run OK with a 20inch bar and chain?
I does well for many
Yea I run a 20" .063 .325 square cut💥 The only difference to me is you can cut bigger trees! I'm going to step up to a 24".
Can I ask you which pro saw would be good for me. I want more power than 50cc . Want the pro for light weight and more power. Going be my last saw. Never got a new one and I want a really nice saw for cutting firewood. Bad back faster I can cut the better. Don’t care about cost
Toolrescue911 have you taken a peak at the MS362? My favorite saw. Amazing power to weight ratio.
Ms462c.
For land /owner firewood type guys in US timber a 362 c is excellent. For Australian hardwood maybe step up to a 462 c
I have the Farm Boss, its a damn heavy saw after just a little bit of work. I too have lost bar nuts and the reason why people lose them is that the balance between too loose and too tight is barely enough to keep them from backing out. I do love the saw though in spite of being heavy its a hoss. I had an issue with the place where I bought my saw and Stihl corporate blew me away ( that aint easy to do), in the way they jumped in and went above and beyond to remedy the problem, and for that reason I will always buy Stihl products. A lot of times I do find myself running two saws and use my smaller Echo for the majority of the work if I am doing a lot due to weight fatigue and use the Stihl for felling and cutting down larger logs into firewood, i use the echo for limbing, saplings and smaller trees. ALWAYS remember to use Stabil in your gas, no small engine likes ethanol
If you are going to buy a pro saw never buy a Stihl saw with a C behind the numbers (M-tronic) the MS261 is an amazing saw. Dont waste your money on anything less then pro level saws unless you like spending money in a saw shop for repairs. Plus if weight is an issue the real solution is going to the gym more.
C=comfort. M=m-tronic. But I agree on the gym comment.
Sorry,but some of us who've had back problems, hip problems, or an arm or shoulder injury dont benefit from looking like a crossfit trainer. At 50 years old with two deteriorating lumber disks and a bad rotator cuff I still have to get things done. 2 pounds can make or break my day if I'm cutting for 4 or 5 hours
Yeah going to the gym comment is crap. Try that with destroyed discs and torn rotator cuffs, still gotta do a days work though, still at it when you're in the gym 😂
What did they do to save the wight?
More aluminum and magnesium and less composite material. The composite has to be thicker to have similar strength therefore it is a higher weight.
Trank you🙏
With the 20” bars is that .325 chain pitch or 3/8?
they both come stock with a .325 bar and chain, a change to 3/8 runs you about $60 with bar/chain/floating rim sprocket
Wouldn't run a 20 inch with 3/8 pitch on either of those. Maybe a 16 or 18, but not a 20.
If I had the farm and ranch saw I'd probably convert it from the spur sprocket to a rim sprocket and go 3/8,probably with an 18" lightweight bar
Am confused why number smaller is better n why no price tag
The 261 is actually a smaller CC but puts out more power
Hello sir I have a question regarding the 261 amd 260 are the parts interchangeable to some extent? The reason I ask is because in Mexico they don't sell the 261 so I had to buy the 260 but I am going bk to CALIFORNIA and will buy a 261. I'm just wondering if the local stihl dealer will be able to do maintenance on the 261
You are going to find that nearly nothing is interchangeable. Sorry to share that info. I would currently stick with the MS260 so your local dealer can help you in the future.
@@Carlsmower Damm that sucks but thanks for the info you shared I really did want a 261 maybe because of all the hype
@@ait0317 Stick with the 260 basically same saw as the 261 without all the crappy electronics.
@@iffykidmn8170 You can buy the 261 without the electronics. I have one about 2 years old. It may actually cost more than the electronic version. I am guessing it is still available.
@@artie191 Yes I have carbed 261s, most dealers push the mtronic crap.
Interested to hear comments between a 261 and a 261c.
Go C
I have a carbureted 261. No computer. Starts with 3 pulls every time. I love the saw. I bought way more saw than I will ever need. Just a homeowner cutting up fallen branches. I wanted the power to weight ratio. A world of difference compared to the Echo CS-400.
@@artie191 I used to bag on the mtronic, but my 261 starts up every time within 2-3 pulls for me. Same with my non mtronic 462. Love em both. Moral of the story is stihl’s pro saws are pretty hard to beat.
appreciate the video. In the 2020 catalog on page 36 it shows the 291 is more of a pro use saw than the 261.
I see what you are talking about, that page is a bit confusing. I can assure you the MS261 is a full pro saw in comparison to the MS291
I’d buy a saw from this guy in a heartbeat!
Too many ignorant ‘troll comments’ in here, seriously!
Peace
Thanks for the love. You need thick skin to handle the trolls and haters. I’m sure I could do better at my data at times. So I usually take the comments as a learning opportunity.
I'm reading the comments and I don't see any "trolls", just people that have a different opinion on the merits of the Stihl (vs. Husky) saws. When did voicing a dissenting opinion become "trolling"? I suspect it is a young person's prospective, i.e. Millennial, Generation Y, ???
Sweet saws
Yeah buddy.
What do you think about stihl 291 are there any problems !
Georgi Krasimirow the MS291 has been a great saw. Most problems are self induced, meaning fuel issues, leaving brake on, not keeping chain sharp and air filter clean.
My first stihl I called the orange and white lead ball. I sold it.
@@g.d.7629 what machine was that?
@@g.d.7629 troll comment
What about the m s 251
This video is comparing similarly sized machines. The MS251 is quite a bit smaller.
I like your videos mate , you’ve got one more describer
Thank you. We have a new channel. This one was somehow locked and TH-cam won’t do a thing about it. Search Carl’s Mower.
My 261 scorched piston engine what can I do to fix it. Someone please help me .
I’m sorry. How old. What mix? What fuel?
Hate the oil, gas caps
They can be aggravating. I personally don’t mind them and see some benefit.
I like the price of ms 462c
Keep your saws warm in the utility room and you won't need the choke. Heating pads work well if in the shed.
Those fuel caps suck, they just do. My 261c
he's never taken more than 3 pulls to start completely (w/valve).
The saw is underpowered with a 20" bar and a sharp chain.
Buy a Husqvarna 550 Mark II for the same price, and have security in a better warranty from a company that has more consideration for it's consumers. Maybe Stihl _was_ a great brand years ago, but it's no longer the elite at this price point; whereas Husqvarna nails it 95%+ and doesn't require you to babysit your leaking saw on a heat pad to ensure it starts properly without a choke. The absurdity of this comment, _for real?_
@@mygiftmatters interesting you say that, because I now own a new 572 :) great saw.
The pro series saws are nice and better..no drawbacks
It’s definitely worth paying attention to
great video, can I buy the 261 at your shop?
You bet currently 6 in stock
Sthil caps are prone to getting grit wood dirt , cause it not to seal , that's what people don't like , in dusty conditions it happens more than you think .
FYI. The fuel and oil caps don't "work great". Owned an ms 201 and 261cm for years and have had to replace the caps multiple times. Google the issue. It's well known.
Stihl dealer fix. Just store it on its side, they all leak.
Really like Stihl, but no fluff here, call like I see it.
Martin when I look at our sales history and failure rate it is less than 1% I am sorry you have had all these issues.
They need the caps like husqvarna uses. Great saws. I own sthil and husqvarna. Both do very good for me.
@@Carlsmower Is that because the other 99% just put them on there side to stop the crappy leaky caps?
@@iffykidmn8170 LOL, I carry a small brush with me and dust off around the cap before removing it. My 261 caps do not leak..
@@iffykidmn8170 I’ve never had a stihl saw leak with those caps unless they were put on incorrectly
Want the prices
Think roughly a 150-200 difference. Prices change a lot so posting price is not a great idea.
I would like those fuel/oil caps too if I was standing indoors, and trying to sell the chainsaws. I've had both styles, kept having to buy new replacement caps from Stihl, finally ordered a 10 pack of "China made" Caps and they seem to leak just as good as the original Stihl caps.
I miss the old school caps I've thought I've had my oil tank secure nope all over my leg
Leaking caps and less torque, no thanks, much prefer the Husqvarna 550 Mark II for the same price.
@@mygiftmatters I've had a a 550xp. It's been rebuilt twice. I'll never own another one. It cut great,but suffered from heating problems.
I have never had a problem on any of my 3 with the caps. 290 Farm Boss, MS170 and MS250 all 8-13 years old. Just lucky I guess.
I have the 261CM with a 16" bar and my brother has the 291 with a 20" bar. I can't tell a difference cutting hardwoods. They're both beasts. I will say that my 261 hates to start when hot. After a tank of gas, the only way I can restart the saw is WOT. It's been into the shop 3 times in 1.5 years to fix this, as I don't think I should have to coax the saw into starting. Nobody can find an issue, but there have been times that it's an absolute boat anchor when hot. 291 is more reliable when hot than my 261.
Do you let the 261 idle for 30 seconds before killing it?
@@carlsmowerandsaw Sometimes. Not every time, though. Sometimes it just gurgles and dies out. It really hates to run hot … and it apparently cannot be fixed.
Sometimes I can get it running by drop starting it with full throttle. After about 5-6 pulls, I can get it running. Other times, no joy … there’s nothing I can do to get it to fire. Have to let it sit for several hours to cool down (I usually just put it away until the next day).
It’s done this since it was new … saw was purchased last March.
Shortly after posting this, I watched some videos on how to reset/recalibrate the mtronic carb.
I followed those steps, but I got a much different response than the videos. My saw ran wot, then went up in RPMs (like the videos), but then didn’t settle back down to a high rpm setting. Instead, it just kept going down in RPMs until it gurgled and died. So, then I was really worried.
But, the saw fired right back up. And in 80F weather and multiple tanks of fuel later, it’s reliable and is a one-pull starter… cold, hot, and everything in between.
Very frustrating that my dealer never did this. It’s about the equivalent of power cycling a computer/smartphone that’s acting buggy. Should have been one of the first things they tried.
It’s also strange that my carb reset had such a weird response. But, I’m super happy to have a reliable saw now.
The right for me is bolts an nuts don't get lose strip the threads . When a flywheel key breaks and does not cost me over 50 dollars . When high dollar brand gets whips . Sthil has a lot catch up to do
Good info
Thanks for the feedback
Ms 261
Yes 👏
I did a fish gill muffler mod, 20" Sugi Hara light bar w/full chisel chain, Exile dog spikes, and reprogrammed my ms261cm... And it's one bad mfkr!!!
What the bigs bar u can put on a 270
With a sprocket change I’ve seen guys run a 25 inch bar although that is not something I would recommend.
@@Carlsmower What’s the biggest one he would recommend
It runs a 20” great.
I am very unhappy with my MS291. I think Sthil is overrated and overpriced. It never ran right from the get go. I took it back to the dealer several times and they told me there was nothing wrong with it, but it has always been very difficult to start and idles poorly. Lately it is impossible to pull the cord due to high compression. There is no compression release on this relatively powerful saw. I am going to try cleaning the exhaust port screen to see if that helps. Meanwhile I just bought a new Echo CS400 because I can't rely on the MS291 to start when I need it. I also own an Echo CS310 and two Echo trimmers, one set up as a brush cutter. The Echo equipment always starts easily, runs good, and is very reliable.
I’ve had the 291 for years , we’re in Canada and when the saw is cold the compression is so high it’s difficult to pull . I bought a 550 xp today we’ll see how that goes .
Hi Josh! Ken aka The Lawn Ninja here from Kitimat, BC. I see this saw as well as a couple others on the Stihl site come in a VW designation. Could you please let me know the difference? Thank you! Very much appreciate your content even way up here! And mowing season soon so I'll be showing off those hats!!! :)
That VW is right in line with you and where you live in the great white north, with all your cold weather and stuff. It designates heated handles.
@@Carlsmower I should ask Ken aka the lawn ninja to help me get some firewood this winter. He can test those features out. Ken spends too much time on the couch or out DJ'ing and trying to whooo the ladies 🤣
Why does Stihl make so many models? It seems like there's so many that are so similar (think 250, 251, 271) And then there are a couple professional models that are clearly better than the Farm/Ranch models but are similar in price.
Good question, one has to assume it’s all about hitting price points. To many people are driven by price not product. I have made decisions this way in my life too.
Those fuel and oil caps are crap. I've had a 271 for almost 5 years and it still takes.4-5 minutes to get the oil cap on. Don't fix.whats.not.broken
😎😎😎😎👍
What chainsaw is right for you? Echo 590!
Could very well be. If you’ve got the right dealer then Echo may be good for you.
Um no, Stihl for life.
@@Carlsmower yeah it’s true 👍
@@matthewbaker5359 ha funny babe
when are these sales people going to say any thing about the worst chain oilers ever?
Are you talking failure or output? Maybe things are different in the PNW but we do very few oilers and have hundreds of these two saws out working.
my son-in-law had one that there not enough oil coming out of it that you could not see it on the chain.I put a new oiler in it and it worked, then I sold the saw and told guy who bought it about every thing I did to get every thing right again. have not heard a word from the guy so i guess "no news is good news"
What Stihl has???? Hmmm the answer is nothing because Husqvarna is the best
Husqvarna makes some incredible products. We sell both brands and I can tell you we have customers happy on both sides of the fence.
do your self a favor,,,buy a commercial saw in this power range. if you are going to buy a saw start with a 362c-m
Ms291 is a crap saw can't adjust chain oiler and stihl must know there is a problem and doing nothing about it so go for ms261 wish i had
No good serial killer would use anything but a Stihl and then only a 261 as they are light weight and powerful. As they say, Stihl to kill all night long.
Don’t like